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Denim fabrics: Ring vs rotor spun yarns

The abrasion resistance of rotor yarn fabrics is better, and colour fastness is slightly higher for ring spun yarn fabrics whereas shrinkages is the same for the fabrics made from ring & rotor spun yarns, find Shakeel Iqbal and A W Kolhatkar. The structural difference between ring and rotor spun yarn and their influence in the behaviour of the two categories are well-known. It has been pointed out that in the case of ring spun yarns, the development of tension during tensile strain increases the inter-fibre friction interaction and more fibres are constrained to rupture before the failure of the yarns. Two of the important differences are the degree of fibre hookiness and fibre migration, which later exit to a much lesser extent in rotor yarns than in the ring yarns. Some of the properties of rotor yarns are very different from those of ring yarns. In some respect rotor yarns are indisputably better and in other they are inferior. The mean strength of rotor yarn is normally less than that of corresponding ring yarn. So that on the face of it, rotor yarns are inferior. The rotor yarns are more regular; There is less variation in average strength, which tend to reflect in the fabric produced. Denim is characterised by a blue warp and undyed yarns in the grey state in the weft. Because of the ratio of warp threads/cm to weft threads/cm is approximately 3:2, the blue warp shows predominantly on the face and the grey weft on the back. Rotor spinning is suitable for coarse yarns, which are used in denim fabric. Since only a few works have been carried out and limited publish work is available, it was thought to carry out the work with special reference to denim fabric. The different fabric properties were studied and attempt was made to compare these properties. Materials & Methods Plan of work The denim fabrics used in the study are made in two different constructions from 100% cotton spun yarns. A) Construction A 3/1 Left Hand twill Ends/inch = 64 Picks/inch = 40 Count of warp = 7s (Ne) Count of weft = 5.5s (Ne) B) Construction B 2/1 Right Hand twill Ends/inch = 80 Picks/inch = 40 Count of warp = 16s (Ne) Count of weft = 14s (Ne)

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The above two constructions are produced by using ring spun and rotor spun yarns as a warp & weft in the following four combinations. 1. 2. 3. 4. R/R Ring spun yarn warp & Ring spun yarn weft. R/OE Ring spun yarn warp & Rotor spun yarn weft. OE/R Rotor spun yarn warp & Ring spun yarn weft. OE/OE Rotor spun yarn warp & Rotor spun yarn weft.

So, a total of 8 denim fabrics were prepared and various fabric properties like tensile strain, breaking elongation (%), tearing strength, bending length, fabric thickness, crease recovery, air permeability, drape coefficient, abrasion resistance, rubbing fastness, washing fastness and shrinkage percentages were tested. Results & discussion Results The properties of yarn are given in Table 1. Discussion Tensile strength It can be seen in Table 2 that when the fabric is tested along the ring spun yarn direction it gives more strength than when it is tested along the rotor spun yarn directions for both the constructions and for both directions (warp-wise & weft-wise). This is mainly because of higher strength of ring spun yarn as compared to the rotor spun yarn. It can also be noted that there is a small effect of cross threads yarn structure on the tensile strength of fabric in warp-wise direction. The ring spun yarn cross thread gives a slightly higher strength than the rotor spun yarn cross thread. Breaking percentage elongation

It can be seen in Table 2 that when the fabric is tested along a ring spun yarn direction, breaking elongation is more than when tested along the rotor spun yarn direction. This may be due to the higher breaking strength of fabrics when tested along the ring spun yarn direction as compared to the fabrics breaking strength along the rotor spun yarn direction. Tearing strength It can be seen in Table 2 that the tearing strength of the fabrics along the ring spun yarn direction is more than the tearing strength of fabrics in the rotor spun yarn direction for both the construction and for both directions (warp & weft). This is mainly because of lower yarn strength of rotor spun yarn as compared to ring spun yarn. It can be seen that there is no effect of traverse thread in the construction A while in the construction B the traverse threads have a significant effect on the tearing strength of fabric. In general the tearing strength of fabrics is more when they have ring spun yarn traverse thread as compared to rotor spun yarn traverse thread. This may be due to very high difference in the ring and rotor yarns strength in construction B.

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Bending length It can be seen in Table 2 that there is very little or no difference in the bending length of fabrics. Bending length of construction A for the ring spun yarn fabrics slightly higher than rotor spun yarn fabric in warp direction only while in the construction B there is no difference in the bending property. But in all cases, the warp way bending length is more than weft way bending length. This is because the warp yarns are sized and there are more number of ends/inch than pick/inch. Fabric Thickness It can be seen in Table 2 that as the proportion of rotor spun yarn in the fabric increases the thickness increases and this is mainly due to the higher bulk of rotor spun yarn as compared to the ring spun yarn. Crease recovery angle The crease recovery angle of the fabrics along the rotor spun yarns is higher than along the ring spun yarn direction in warp as well as in weft direction for both the constructions. The higher crease recovery angle along the rotor spun yarn direction is due to higher diameter of rotor yarns, which makes the fabric more resistant. Air permeability It can be seen in Table 2 that the air permeability of the fabrics increases when the proportion of the rotor spun yarns in the fabric increases for both the constructions. The higher air permeability through rotor yarn fabrics in spite of greater yarn bulk may be due to airflow through wrapper fibres. Drape coefficient (%) There is a slight higher drape coefficient (%) for ring spun yarn fabrics. This may be due to compact packing of ring spun yarns as compared to rotor spun yarns. Abrasion resistance Abrasion resistance is determined by the percentage weight loss method, a higher weight loss indicating poorer abrasion resistance. The fabrics made from rotor yarns show a higher abrasion resistance as compared to fabrics made from ring spun yarns. The improved abrasion resistance of rotor spun yarn fabrics could be due to the wrapper fibres, which have mobility on the yarn core and thus avoid abrasion with the abradent. In the fabrics, the wrapper fibres are trapped and rotor yarns, by flattening, give a greater area of contact between the abradent and fabric, thus reducing weight loss. Fabrics colour fastness The rubbing and washing fastness is slightly poor for rotor spun yarn fabrics. Shrinkage (%) The shrinkage percentages of the fabrics made from ring and rotor spun yarns are same. Conclusion The following conclusion can be drawn from this study. 1. Tensile and tearing strengths are more when the fabric is tested along the ring spun yarn direction than along the rotor spun yarn direction. This is mainly due to the lower yarn strength of the rotor yarns. 2. The breaking elongation is less for rotor spun yarn. 3. Bending length is same for the fabrics made from ring and rotor spun yarn. 4. Fabric thickness is high when the proportion of rotor yarn in the fabric is more, and this is because of higher bulk of rotor spun yarn. 5. Crease recovery and air permeability is slightly poor for the fabrics made from ring spun yarn as compared to the rotor spun yarn fabrics. 6. Drape coefficient percentage is slightly higher for the ring spun yarns. 7. Abrasion resistance of rotor yarns is better than ring yarns due to the wrapper fibres which have mobility on the yarn core and thus avoid abrasion with the abradent. 8. Colour fastness is slightly higher for ring spun yarns fabric whereas shrinkage is same for the fabrics made from ring and rotor spun yarns. References 1. Mohammed M H, and Lord P R: Textile Research Journal 43, 154-166, March 1973. 2. 3. 4. 5. Pillay K P R, Vishwanathan N, and Parathasarathy M S: Text Res J 5, 366-372, 1975. Singh V P, Sengupta A K: Textile Research Journal 4 186, 1977. Hari P K, and Shankaranarayanan G: Indian Journal of Textile Research, Vol (9) 85-89, September, 1984. Swami N M, Hari P K, and Anand Jiwala R: Indian Journal of Textile Research, Vol (9) 90-94, September, 1984.