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Maps Events Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping

Dubrovnik
Summer 2019

Valley
of Life
N°28 - complimentary copy
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Down by the
Waterside in
the Neretva Delta
- no need to book, just show up 10 min before departure
- tickets available on the spot / 5% discount on online bookings: www.dubrovnik-walking-tours.com
SCHEDULE 2019
09:30 GAME OF THRONES TOUR 13:30 A STORY ABOUT THE WAR
150+50* KN / 2 hours / May 1 to Oct 31 90 KN / 1 hour / May 1 to Oct 31
10:00 THE DISCOVER DUBROVNIK WALK 15:00 GAME OF THRONES & DUBROVNIK
90 KN / 1 hour / Apr 1 to Oct 31 150 KN / 1.5 hours / Apr 1 to Oct 31
10:20 DUBROVNIK ENTDECKER TOUR 16:00 GAME OF THRONES TOUR
90 KN / 1 hour / May 1 to Oct 31 150+50* KN / 2 hours / Apr 1 to Oct 31
10:30 DESCUBRIR-DUBROVNIK RECORRIDO A PIE 16:30 THE DISCOVER DUBROVNIK WALK
90 KN / 1 hour / April 1 to Oct 31 90 KN / 1 hour / Apr 1 to Oct 31
11:00 GAME OF THRONES TOUR 17:00 GAME OF THRONES TOUR
150+50* KN / 2 hours / year round 150+50* KN / 2 hours / June 1 to Sept 30
11:30 THE DISCOVER DUBROVNIK WALK 17:30 CITY WALLS & DUBROVNIK
90 KN / 1 hour / May 1 to Sep 30 200+200** KN / 2.5 hours / May 1 to Aug 31
12:00 THE DISCOVER DUBROVNIK WALK 17:30 GAME OF THRONES & DUBROVNIK
90 KN / 1 hour / year round 150 KN / 1.5 hours / Sep 1 to Oct 31
12:30 GAME OF THRONES & DUBROVNIK 18:00 THE DISCOVER DUBROVNIK WALK
150 KN / 1.5 hours / May 1 to Oct 31 90 KN / 1 hour / Jun 1 to Sept 30
13:00 THE DISCOVER DUBROVNIK WALK 18:30 GAME OF THRONES & DUBROVNIK
90 KN / 1 hour / Jun 1 to Sep 30 150 KN / 1.5 hours / May 1 to Aug 31
* Entrance fee is 50 kn but if you already have a City Walls ticket or a Dubrovnik Card you can use it for free entrance
** Price for the City Walls entrance is an additional 200 KN. The entrance is free with Dubrovnik Card.
*** All tours are in English apart from those indicated above with flags

MEETING Meeting Point for all tours


is The Big Onofrio’s Fountain
POINT (located within the City Walls).
LOOK FOR A RED UMBRELLA

Doživljaj Mediterana d.o.o., Bartola Kašića 5, 20236 Mokošica, OIB 68762372382, IC: HR-AB-20-090011580
tel: +385 20 436 846, mob: +385 95 744 74 74, sales@dubrovnik-walking-tours.com, www.dubrovnik-walking-tours.com
Contents

E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S

Top Summer Events 8 Dubrovnik Surroundings 42


You won’t be bored The top gateways

The Neretva Delta 12 Dubrovnik County Map 42


The valley of life
Shopping 54
Restaurants 14 Take home the best memories and souvenirs
Spicing things up
Arrival & Getting Around 60
Coffee & Cakes 30 Lost? Help is at hand
What a plesure
Dubrovnik Basics 62
Nightlife 32 The A-Z of Dubrovnik
Music to your ears Maps & Street Register
Sightseeing 36 Street Register 63
Check out the highlights City Map 64
City Centre Map 66

Pigeons enjoying Poljana Paska Miličevića. The Large Onofrio’s


Fountain, St. Saviour Church, and the Franciscan Church and
Monastery can be seen in the background. Photo by Shutterstock.

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2019 5


Foreword
“Overtourism” has over the last twelve months become one
Publisher
of the favouritebuzz words of the international travel me- Plava Ponistra d.o.o., Zagreb
dia. The idea that there is simply too much tourism nowa- ISSN 1846-0852
days and that locals can no longer go about their business
is as old as the tourist industry itself, although it has gained Company Office & Accounts
Višnja Arambašić
added traction recently due to genuine fears that, in some Dubrovnik In Your Pocket, Lastovska 42, Zagreb, Croatia
places at least, the crowds are just too big. Tel. (+385-1) 779 12 28
croatia@inyourpocket.com, www.inyourpocket.com
A certain amount of hypocrisy is attached to media dis- Accounting Management Mi-ni d.o.o.
cussion of the problem, with articles about overtourism Printed by Radin print, Sveta Nedjelja
appearing in the same newspapers that promote the idea Editorial
of the Mediterranean cruise as a legitimate lifestyle aspira- Editor Višnja Arambašić
tion. And it’s the cruises that cause most of the problems in Contributors Nataly Anderson-Marinović, Frank Jelinčić, Lee
Murphy, Johathan Bousfield
Dubrovnik, with cruise passengers bussed from their boats Senior Assistant Editor Kristina Štimac
towards the Old Town where they create a bottleneck at Assistant Editor Blanka Valić
Pile Gate, main entrance to Dubrovnik’s historic core. Research Katarina Buljan
Design Ivana Mihoković
Dubrovnik in summer is a hot, hectic place that requires Photography Dubrovnik In Your Pocket team unless otherwise
stated
a bit of patience, stoicism and forward planning if you are Cover Shutterstock, River Neretva estuary
going to enjoy it to the full. The best times to enjoy the Old Sales & Circulation Kristijan Vukičević, Blanka Valić, Kristina
Town is first thing in the morning or late in the evening, Štimac
when it feels like a vivacious summertime city rather than Copyright notice
an exercise in physical endurance. And if you want to go up Text, maps and photos copyright Plava ponistra d.o.o. Maps
onto the walls, don’t leave it till id-morning, when queues copyright cartographer. All rights reserved. No part of this pub-
can be dauntingly long. Above all, don’t treat the Old Town lication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts
for the purpose of review, without written permission from the
as the only show in town: take the seafront path from publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket
Lapad to BabinKuk, or explore the bustle of Gružharbour. is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4,
Dubrovnik has dealt with tourist crowds with a mixture of Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76). In Your Pocket is not
charm and good humour, and there is no reason why you responsible for any information which might change after publi-
cation. Please check with the event organisers if in doubt.
shouldn’t do so too.

6 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


Top Summer Events 10.07 - 25.08 » 70th Dubrovnik
Summer Festival
Few cultural events are associated with their
home base quite so closely as the Dubrovnik
Festival, a renowned cultural showcase which
– famously – stages performances in ambient
venues all over the historic city. 
First held in 1950, the festival this year celebrates
its 70th edition, cementing its role as Croatia’s
foremost artistic flagship. With a programme
that embraces theatre, orchestral music, opera
and ballet, the festival as always brought top in-
ternational performers to the city and delivered
art of unimpeachably high standards. While not
being an overtly avant-garde festival it has never
shied away from experimentation, and the pro-
gramme tries to strike a balance between the
classical and the contemporary. Performances
this year take place in the Rector’s Palace, Revelin
fortress, Gradac Park and the university campus.
Lovrijenac Fortress sets the scene for Hamlet, the
Shakespeare play with which it has long ben as-
sociated. First held at Lovrijenac in 1952, Hamlet
became something of a symbol for the festival
as a whole, programmed more often over the
past 70 years than any other play - Derek Jacobi
and Daniel Day-Lewis being among those who
have played the lead role. This year it is directed
by Italian director Paolo Magelli, with craggy
Dubrovnik heart-throb Frano Mašković in the
title role. Projections by video-art wizard Ivan
Marušić Klif will give the play a modicum of con-
temporary visual style. In a programme packed
full of other highlights, St Petersburg’s Mariinsky
Theatre, one of the finest ballet troupes in the
world, will be performing beneath the leaning
pines of Gradac Park.  QB/C‑2, Stradun, Placa,
www.dubrovnik-festival.hr.

Gala concert in front of St Blaise Church, Dubrovnik Summer Festival Archives


Top Summer Events
03.05 - 15.10 » The Linđo Folk Ensemble
The Linđo folk ensemble, one of Croatia’s finest cultural
exports, is ready to dance its socks off for you during the
tourist season, when high-spirited energetic performanc-
es with amazing costumes and haunting songs will echo
through Lazareti. The Dubrovnik Summer Festival (July
10 - August 25) is an exception, when their performances
are as per the festival’s schedule. To reserve your ticket
call (+385-20) 32 40 23, (+385-) 099 833 06 79.QL‑2, The
Lazaret, Frana Supila bb, www.lindjo.hr. Every Tuesday
& Friday.

21.06 - 23.06 » Ana in The City


Croatian international cellist Ana Rucner is once again ap-
pearing on the first day of summer, June 21. She, along
with Croatian opera singer Sandra Bagarić and pianist Dar-
ko Domitrović perform at 05:00 as they greet the first sum-
mer sunrise, attracting many locals and tourists. As part of
the festival, two evening shows will be held by the ‘New
Life - Theatre for the blind and visually impaired’.  Qwww.
anarucner.com.

22.06 - 05.07 » Midsummer scene -


Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet
Devotees to plays and most of all, a love story, mustn’t miss
this fabulous tale with a modern twist. This version is also
set in Verona but in the 1960s where two love-struck teens
fall head over heels for each other. Yet, they are divided by
their feuding families. How will it end? Come and see as
this British cast and production give Shakespeare’s classic,
another fictional finale! In addition, a handful of other dra-
ma and music events will be held. See the full programme
at http://midsummer-scene.com.QK‑3, Lovrijenac For‑
tress, Ul. od Tabakarije 29, tel. (+385-20) 43 27 92, www.
midsummer-scene.com.

28.06 - 05.07 » The 12th International


Opera Arias Festival ‘Tino Pattiera’
Devotees to opera music will adore the entire set up of this
international festival which annually draws some of the
greatest stars in the genre. The Rector’s Palace is a majes-
tic setting for such an event dedicated to ‘Tino Pattiera’, a
local world famous tenor who in the first part of the 20th
century had sung at most of Europe’s major opera houses.
QD‑3, The Rector’s Palace, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-
20) 32 14 97, www.dso.hr.

25.08 - 25.11 » Orlando


The knight statue you see in the centre of Luža Square is
named Orlando and this year marks the 600th anniversary
of its creation. This comprehensive exhibition depicts the
historical framework of the 14th and 15th century of the
Dubrovnik Republic in European political processes, the
Orlando Pillar, its builders, the challenges of restoration,
as well as Orlando in European, Croatian and Dubrovnik
literary, art and music history. QD‑3, The Rector’s Palace,
Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 97, www.dumus.hr.

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2019 9


Top Summer Events
COUNTY 04.05 - 13.10 » Art
EVENTS Pavilion - Your
26.06, 29.06, 15.08 » Black Horizon
Mljet’s Hidden Cor- After its huge success at the
ners Venetian Biennal, the T-BA21
Ethno culinary event that con- foundation chose the rich
nects several manifestations of and ancient island of Lopud
the same character into one and as home to its modern Pavil-
held exclusively in the old vil- ion. This windowless pavilion
lages of the island. Local house- presents a thin horizontal line
wives use fresh ingredients of light, which endlessly runs
to prepare and present local around the dark given space.
delicacies, brandies and wines. Bear witness to how the light
There is live music, folklore, old naturally changes its spec-
photographs and crafts, and trum from sunrise to sunset.
even some records playing. It’s Qwww.tba21.org.
as if time stops for a moment,
and so let it be!Qwww.mljet.hr. Your black horizon by Zoran Marinovic 2014

27.06 - 30.06 » Kinookus - The Food Film the same time. Ston itself is a great location (and not just
Festival because of its reputation for bringing together the best
The walled town of Ston is the venue for the 10th edition of the local wine and seafood) with many of the events
of Kinookus, a festival that brings film and food together taking place in the open air against a backdrop of historic
with a busy programme of film screenings, culinary events buildings.Qwww.kinookus.com.hr.
and after-parties. The main focus of the festival is on the
culture of food – what do we grow, how do we grow it, jul & aug » Toast from the host
how do we preserve local traditions, and how can we Pomena is the perfect setting for a wine and food event,
eat well while preserving the ecology of the planet at where Pelješac wine makers and other manufacturers of

Metković Tourist Board Archives

05.07 » Cipolijada
Fishing for mullets (cipol) is a time-hon-
oured tradition in the Neretva region.
During the summer months, fishermen
patiently sit along the banks of the green
and clean Neretva River and catch this
fish which can then be prepared into a
variety of dishes. At the end of the sum-
mer a competition in catching mullets
called ‘Cipolijada’ is held. The competi-
tion continues into the night with a “Fish-
ing Night” of music and dancing, during
which time the fish are prepared, cooked,
and eaten.Qwww.tzmetkovic.hr.

10 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


Top Summer Events
eco-products from the island of Mljet present their prod-
ucts. Held one Sunday in July and one in August, with
Dalmatian music in the background, enjoy the sounds and
flavours of Mljet.QMljet, www.mljet.hr.

17.07 » Jumping into the Neretva


A “jumping competition” that attracts a large number of
viewers is held next to the Lučki most (harbour bridge)
in Metković. Obstacles the contestants must compete
include, swimming with a rubber ring, rowing in a large
tractor tire, climbing up a rope to reach a piece of pršut,
and jumping from small and large diving boards. Com-
petitors include children, the young and the old. Special
attention is paid to the “craziest jump” category.Qwww.
tzmetkovic.hr.

27.07 » The Night of old Orebić


On this one night each year, the beautiful old town of
Orebić turns even older, we’re talking centuries back! Its
main promenade sees local residents dressed as captains,
sailors, fisherman, blacksmiths and more... They display
their old traditions, trades and crafts, whilst old photos of
famous town captains grace the strolling walkway for all to
see. There will be plenty of local delicacies on offer which
though hard to pronounce, are easily eatable to any food
lover; padšipanje, hroštule, muštule and more.QOrebić,
Pelješac, www.visitorebic-croatia.hr.

10.08 » The Neretva boat (lađa) mara-


thon
Be among the 50 000 visitors that attand this spectacle Revelin Fortress
which promotes the protection of the lađa, Neretva boat,
an authentic, traditional vessel which for centuries was a Not only is the Revelin Fortress a landmark of Du-
mean ofvtransport. Each year, an amateur rowing com- brovnik, it is now home to some intriguing exhibitions.
petition is held from Metković to Ploče, 22.5km along the The ground floor caters to two archaeological exhibits
Neretva river. Both towns are amassed with people and whilst the first floor is a high-tech centrepiece with a
there are parades, concerts, and plenty of cheer.Qwww. virtual museum.
maraton-ladja.hr.
The exhibit Early Medieval Sculpture of Dubrovnik
and Environs is linked to the material stone, for stone
31.08 - 14.09 » Korkyra Baroque Festi-
is what gives this Medieval City its charm. Even furni-
val
ture in churches was made from stone and this exhibit
Not rock but purely baroque and such music lovers can
presents stone altars, fences, pulpits, windows and im-
choose from concerts with ensembles and solo artists
posts in a pre-Romanic and early Romanic style. These
from the Spain, Netherlands, Italy, UK, Czech Republik
and Croatia. In addition, there will also be lectures and artefacts have been gathered from the Benedictine or-
other events pertaining to the musical style, come to der in Dubrovnik and it’s surroundings; they date from
think of it; this is a Baroque hot spot!QKorčula, www. the 8th and 12th century.
korkyrabaroque.com. The second exhibit Archaeological research, Spatial
Development and Foundry presents how the very
22.09 » Ston Wall Marathon building you are standing in, was built. Visuals depict
This unique marathon race takes place in the equally its 15th and 16th century construction as well as find-
unique location, the Ston Wall, also known as the ‘Euro- ings such as ovens for casting cannons and bells, and
pean Wall of China’. This massive stoned wall was built as the houses of different stone masons and foundry men.
another line of defence by the Republic of Ragusa in the Any public-construction in the city at the time was put
15th century. Take part in a race along the longest wall in on halt to accelerate the building of the fortress due to
Europe by choosing any route from 4 km, 15 km or 42 km potential Venetian dangerQE-1, dumus.hr/en. Open
and enjoy some of the most stunning views at your very 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Wed.
own pace.Qwww.ston-wall-marathon.com.

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2019 11


The Neretva Delta
As the coastal road approaches the NeretvaDelta from
the north there’s a tourist association-sponsored sign
hovering above the Magistrala. “The Valley of Life”, it says.
Looking down on the valley, with its lush green strips of
cultivated land, it’s easy to see why. Formerly an exten-
sive reedy swamp, it has largely been transformed into
Croatia’s principal region for the cultivation of citrus fruits.
The delta remains primarily a wetland environment; the
orchard areas are criss-crossed by irrigation channels,
whiledensely-reeded areas of marshland encroachon the
scene from the sides.
The delta remains an extraordinarily rich habitat for
freshwater fauna and migrating birds, all of which are
spectacularly showcased in the fabulous Natural History
Mueum (Prirodoslovnimuzej) in the delta’s main town,
Metković. Opened in 2016, the state-of-the-art museum
retains many of the exhibits once displayed in the town’s
former Ornithological Museum, a vast array of preserved
birds that was said to bethe third-largest such collection
in Europe. The new museum injects a contemporary sense
of style into the old-school stuffed-birdnature of the his-
toric collection,withtouch-screen information, sound
effects(including push-button birdsong), and in one
show-stopping touch, an airport-style arrivals board list-
ing the incoming flights of migrating birds.
Right up until the modern era the Neretva Delta was one
vast swampland, a boggy expanse cut through by travers-
able waterways. The excavation of these waterways was
extraordinarily physically demanding, a backbreaking job
carried out by locals half-submerged in water – no wonder
that rheumatic and lung complaints were endemic among
the delta’s population. The sludge dredged up from the
swamp bottom was piled up to create strips of cultivable
land, although it wasn’t until the 20th century that the or-
chard agriculture for which the Delta is known really took
off. For centuries before that, most of the delta’s inhabit-
cal diet – nowadays the swamp creatures are considered
ants practiced the hillside terrace farming common to the
delicacies rather than daily staples.
whole of the Dalmatian seaboard.
Frogs and eels are still the main ingredients of the local
Due to its status as a crossing point between coastal and brudet; a tangy, highly-spiced stew rich in tomatoes and
inland trade routes, the delta was always a centre of civi- paprika. Brudet is at its best in checked-tablecloth tav-
lization. The Roman city of Narona, now the village of Vid erns such as KonobaVrilo in the village of Prud, the kind
6km north of Metković, is the site of an impressive modern of place that sticks religiously to the regional culinary rep-
museum that is one of Dubrovnik County’s most compel- ertoire, but still earns enough culinary kudos to feature in
ling historical attractions. In the middle ages the Neretva GaultMillau and other gastro-guides. However they are
princes were a regional power to be reckoned with, ha- prepared, frogs are small-boned creatures and are rather
rassing Venetian shipping with their manoeverable boats difficult to at with a knife and fork. You’ll be using your fin-
and then disappearing back behind their swamps when- gers sooner or later.
ever the enemy threatened a counter-attack.
TheNeretva delta’s channels were traditionally navigated
The swamplands have always provided a happy home for by means of a lađa, a long shallow boat equipped with
legions of eels and frogs, and it was these creatures that either sail or oars; or a much smaller trupa, a one-man
traditionally formed the delta’s staple diet. Frogs were rowing boat ideal for zipping around on fishing trips. A
eaten in any number of ways; eels were frequently salt- heavily-ladenlađacould also be dragged by chain – a man
cured rather like pršut and stacked in large oak barrels, would sit in the boat next to the tiller while a team of
which were then exported throughout the Mediterranean women on the riverbank dragged it along.
as a delicacy. The 20th century decline of the swamp and
the growing focus on fruit-growing has led to a shrinking Nowadays these traditional craft are remembered in the
of the habitat for frogs and eels, and a change in the lo- Lađa Marathon (Maratonlađa), a rowing racein traditional

12 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


The Neretva Delta
The Neretva still provides a permanent or temporary
home to over 250 species of resident or migratory birds.
It’s a hugely rewarding destination for birdwatchers, espe-
cially in winter when scoters, hen harriers, teals and black-
headed gulls make the delta their home.

The Neretva swamps also provided the ideal breeding


grounds for mosquitos, and were notoriously malarial.
Ancient sources suggest that the Greek citizens of Korčula
were forbidden from visiting the Neretva Delta in summer
for fear that they would come back feeling feverish.Fear
of malaria reigned right up until the 20th century, when
Prussian Carp were introduced to eat the mosquitos’eggs.

It was the Austrians (who ruled over Dalmatia from 1815


to 1918) who regulated the flow of the river, making land-
reclamation easier and slowly transforming the Delta into
the perfect place for the cultivation of orchard fruits. Now-
adays the region is famous for its mandarins, which appear
in markets all over Croatia every autumn. It’s said that the
first mandarins arrived in the 1930s, brought on one of the
Japanese cargo boats that called at the port of Metković
to pick up deliveries of wheat. Experimental plantings
revealed that the mandarin was ideally suited to local
conditions, and the fruit became a mainstay of the local
economy. The local microclimate has a lot to do with the
fruit’ssuccess: the winter temperature rarely drops below
freezing (and when it does so it hardly ever remains below
freezing for more than 48 hours, a time scale that is crucial
for particular citrus fruits). Numerous strains of mandarin
have been introduced in order to lengthen the harvest-
ing season – hardier varieties don’t have to be picked until
the late autumn. Harvesting the fruits is a labour-intensive
Photo by Andrija Carli, job that involves a certain amount of care - the manda-
Dubrovnik Neretva County Tourist Board Archives rins have to be cut individually from the branch to avoid
bruising. Coming in the wake of the mandarin have been
lemons, kiwi, kumquat and even bananas – although it’s
boats held on the second Saturday of August ever since the mandarin for which the delta, and especially the man-
1998. Starting in Metković and ending in the port of Ploče darin-town of Opuzen midway between Metković and
at the Neretva’s mouth, the contest has grown into a huge Ploče, remains famous.
event for spectators and participants alike, attracting
teams from all over Croatia. The uniqueness of the valley as a rich agricultural zone is to
a certain extent preserved by the fact that there is no big
Nowadays tourists can explore the waterways of the delta tourist resort near the river’s mouth; there is instead the
on photo-safari trips in covered boats powered by out- port city of Ploče, with its skyline of dockside cranes, an
board motors rather than oars or chains. These are very of- interesting place for many reasons but one that is unlikely
ten the best way of getting up close to the flora and fauna to detain tourists on their way south.
of those stretches of swamp that still survive.
One potential threat to the delta’s fruit-growing destiny
The richness of the delta is not just a matter of squelchy comes from the construction of hydro-power stations
treats like frogs and eels. It is also the natural home of Iris higher up the valley in Bosnia-Herzegovina. Water flow
Illyrica, the wild iris famous for its fragrance that was ex- has already been restricted by the construction of upriver
ported all over the ancient Mediterranean as a highly val- dams, and the relative lack of fresh water coming down
ued perfume. The delta was also one of the main feeding the valley means that salt water from the sea stretches fur-
grounds of the Dalmatian Pelican, first spotted and classi- ther and further up the river. It is fresh water, not salt water
fied here in the 19th century. This migrating species is no that is needed to irrigate the delta’s fruit trees, and further
longer seen in the Neretva because of the gradual shrink- changes to the delicate natural balance may well put the
Valley of Life at risk.
ing of the swamp, and nowadays frequents the marshy
stretches of the lower Danube in Bulgaria and Romania. Written by Jonathan Bousfield

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2019 13


Restaurants
Croatian Kopun
Nestling under gnarled trees near the Jesuit Church Kopun
Bistro Glorijet has carved out an enviable reputation as a restaurant that
Close to the city market in Gruž harbour you’ll find this does traditional and contemporary at the same time. They
lovely old summer residence which has been turned into a have reinvented dishes like kopun (the roast capon from
bistro where you can enjoy good cooking at sensible pric- which the restaurant gets its name) and šporkimakaruli (an
es. Glorijet has earned a reputation among the locals as old-school Dubrovnik dish featuring tubes of pasta with
a good lunch spot.QH‑2, Obala Stjepana Radića 16, tel. goulash) alongside a wealth of delicate pastas, risottos and
(+385-20) 41 97 88/(+385-) 098 28 51 80. Open 10:00- salads. Quality food, smooth service, and the view isn’t bad
24:00; closed Sun. (60 - 170kn). A­P­G­T­U­6­W either.QC‑4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 7, tel. (+385-20)
32 39 69/(+385-) 099 212 98 80, 098 42 73 82, www.
Bistro Tavulin restaurantkopun.com. Open 11:00-23:00. (80 - 250kn).
With tables spread across the alleyway just behind the A­P­G­X­T­B­J­6­W
Church of St Blaise, Tavulin offers a quality mixture of tra-
ditional and creative cuisine at prices which won’t have Mimoza
you rushing for the cash machine. The octopus ragout In a courtyard across from the Hilton Imperial Hotel, 100
with beans and polenta (150Kn) is something of a signa- meters from the Pile Gate, Mimoza is big enough to handle
ture dish and reveals a lot about what Tavulin is trying to your tour group and several others simultaneously, seem-
do – dig some good ideas out of the old recipe books ingly without a blink. There’s a dining room, but the ter-
and present them in a fresh contemporary way. Fresh fish race, shaded partly with a grape arbour, is a pleasant place
and slow cooked veal are among the other regular stand- to dine on meats and fish, pizzas and pasta and vegetarian
outs, and inexpensive daily specials are chalked up on the dishes. Delivery is available.QJ‑3, Branitelja Dubrovnika
blackboard.QC‑3, Cvijete Zuzorić 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 39 9, tel. (+385-20) 41 11 57, www.restaurant-mimoza-
77, www.tavulin.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00. (120 - 190kn). dubrovnik.com. Open 08:00-24:00. (80 - 120kn).
P­G­B­J­6­W ­i A­P­G­T­B­E­S­6­W ­i

Dubrovnik Orhan
Occupying an elegant roof terrace in an Old Town alleyway Definitely check out the tiny harbour at Pile – it’s like
that is by no means busy with tourists, this Michelin-listed something out of a pirate movie set in an intimate huddle
establishment is one of the city’s finest places for an ex- of houses beneath sheer cliffs. Orhan’s terrace is, therefore,
travagant meal. It is also quite expensive, but the creativity a great spot. Decent quality, classic Croatian cooking at
of the cuisine and the attention-to-detail service make it reasonable prices.QK‑3, Od Tabakarije 1, tel. (+385-20)
more than worthwhile. Meat and fish mains are exquisitely 41 41 83, www.restaurant-orhan.com. Open 11:00-
inventive and are matched by the starters and sweets – it’s 23:30. (80 - 200kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­J­6­W
well worth coming ready to eat several courses or splash
out on one of the many-course tasting menues. Superb all Tramuntana
round.QC‑3, Marojice Kaboge 5, tel. (+385-) 099 258 58 This trendy restaurant has a wonderful sea view, situated on
71, www.restorandubrovnik.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00. the waterfront over in Babin Kuk. Situated well away from
July & August open 06:00 - 24:00. (180-450 kn). A­G­ the insane crowds in the Old Town of Dubrovnik, here you
can experience the sort of serene nature you might other-
T­U­B­W
wise only see in the movies. Tramuntana is one of the best
places on the peninsula to try any number of fish dishes
Kavana Teatar
and other traditional, expanded upon Dalmatian food such
Located in Lapad, off of the typical tourist track, this simple
as veal medallions in truffle sauce and linguini with beef-
and laid-back restaurant serves all your basic meals. Not steak and truffle sauce (they do like their truffles!). Make
only a restaurant but a cafe as well, stop by for a drink or sure to have some carob cake. QNika i Meda Pucića 13,
grab a bite to eat. They offer something for everyone from tel. (+ 385- 20) 49 42 00, www.restaurant-tramuntana.
pizza and ćevapčići to carbonara spaghetti and omeletts. com. Open 18:00-23:00. (145 - 200kn). A­P­W
This simple, but delicious food will hit the spot and best
of all, for a reasonable price.QH‑2, Iva Vojnovića 72, tel.
(+385-20) 43 62 20. Open 07:00-24:00; Sat, Sun 08:00-
24:00. (35 - 130kn). A­P­G­T­B­S­V­6­W SYMBOL key
Komin P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
The “fireplace”, adorned with ironwork and ancient weap- T Child-friendly U Facilities for the disabled
onry, has as its centrepiece a real hearth where your meal
is cooked before your very eyes – try meat or fish ispod B Outside seating L Guarded parking
peke. A good choice in the Babin kuk area.QG‑2, Iva
Dulčića 136, tel. (+385-20) 43 56 36, www.restaurant- S Take away 6 Pet-friendly
komin.com. Open 12:00-23:00. (90 - 180kn). A­P­G­ W Wifi J Old town location
T­B­L­6­W

14 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants
Ethnic and turning them into quality sit-down cuisine. Tradi-
tional ground-meat fare such as ćevapi and pljeskavice
Mex Cantina Bona Fide
are tangy and succulent; the DžingisKan mixed grill for
Don’t let the name fool you, they don’t just offer Mexican
two provides you with a platter of grill-kebabs and meaty
dishes, but Italian, as well. The outdoor terrace is snuggled
chops that will tell you all you need to know about inland
into a narrow side street, with colourful pastel tables cre-
Balkan cooking. For something less carnivorous, try the
ating a vibrant contrast to the grey stone walls. They offer
tacos, enchiladas, fajitas and nachos, as well as a wide vari- flaky pastries filled with spinach or cheese.QC‑3, Nikole
ety of pizzas and pastas. When you can’t decide between Gučetića 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 21/(+385-) 098 983 26
Mexican and Italian, it’s the perfect spot to suit either 20, www.tajmahal-dubrovnik.com. Open 09:00-24:00.
mood.QB‑2/3, Čubranovićeva 8, tel. (+385-) 097 729 08 (90 - 250kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­S­6­W
19. Open 08:00-01:00. (50 - 140kn) €€. A­P­G­X­T­
U­B­S­J­6­W Takenoko
Takenoko is Croatia’s oldest and most well-known Japa-
Shizuku Japanese Cuisine nese fusion restaurant. Located just outside Dubrovnik’s
Welcome to an Asian fusion experience in Dubrovnik! stunning Pile Gate, the food aims to give the view a run
Located in a residential area in Lapad, this restaurant is a for its money. The luxury menu and extensive wine list are
little harder to find. Open only in the evenings, Shizuku not for those on a shoestring—but the sushi and the am-
serves only dinner and offers maki rolls, nigiri and sashi- biance are beyond reproach.QE‑1, Hvarska 2, tel. (+385
mi along with a wide variety of other Japanese dishes. - 20) 69 46 09, www.takenoko.hr/en. Open 18:00-23:30.
To quench your thirst, try some Japanese beer or sake. (87 - 400kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­S­J­W­K
A popular dining spot, the tables fill up quickly, so make
sure to call ahead for a reservation.QH‑2, Kneza Doma‑
goja 1F, tel. (+385-20) 31 14 93, www.facebook.com/
International
ShizukuDubrovnik. Open 17:00-24:00; closed Mon. (75 Gil’s Little Bistro
- 110kn). A­P­G­B­W ‘Let’s cut in front of you!’ This tiny bistro offers a unique
culinary experience in which you pick your slice of meat
Taj Mahal before it’s prepared. A new concept to restaurants in this
Although the name might make you think of India this beautiful historic city. The menu offers a wide variety of
is actually Dubrovnik’s prime Bosnian restaurant, taking steaks, along with truffle based dishes and fresh local oys-
the hearty grilled meats for which the region is famed ters from the nearby city, Ston. The meals are a bit pricey,

16 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants

but worth it for a heavenly cuisine experience.QC‑2, by tourists and locals alike.QKardinala Stepinca 33, tel.
Petilovrijenci 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 68/(+385-) 098 196 (+385-20) 49 42 00, www.restaurant-more.com. Open
21 36, www.gils.hr. Open 12:00-24:00. (90 - 240kn). 12:00-23:00. (160 - 220kn). A­P­W
A­P­G­X­T­U­B­J­6­W
Pantarul
Lucin Kantun Located near a road junction in the residential part of La-
Another place that gets its inspiration from old-style rustic pad this is a discreet and unassuming location for some of
cooking and contemporary global-fusion bistro food, Lu- the best food on the Adriatic, combining old Dalmatian
cin Kantun limits itself to a small menu of seasonal goodies recipes and fresh local ingredients with a dash of experi-
base on fresh ingredients, with fish, seafood and duck well mentation and flair. The menu includes a lot of fish, lamb
represented. They also have a tapas-inspired approach and duck, garnished with the kind of inventive barley,
which means that you can order several small plates of dif- beans and sweet-sour fruit combinations for which Panta-
ferent things and all dip in. The place itself mirrors the ap- rul is increasingly known. Homely, informal and not wildly
proach to the food, with a chic modern interior juxtaposed expensive, it’s understandably popular and you should al-
with outdoor seating in a romantic stepped alley.  QB‑2, ways reserve.QH‑2, Kralja Tomislava 1, tel. (+385-20) 33
Od Sigurate 4a, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 03. Open 11:30 - 34 86, www.pantarul.com. Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 -
22:00. (38 - 160kn). A­P­G­X­T­U­B­J­6­W 24:00. Closed Mon. (84 - 230kn). A­P­G­T­S­L­W

More Peppers Eatery


Dubrovnik is more than just a tourist hotspot, it’s also a Occupying a cute stone house and walled courtyard right
great place to find great food. Here you can enjoy a wide opposite Lapad’s new yachting marina, Peppers offers a
range of menus, from local to regional to international. broad range of local and international fare in a relaxing
Crawfish, salmon, all the way down to lamb, pork, veal, bar-bistro environment. The list of starters includes the
beefsteak! More has more of everything. The wine list is kind of global fare (hummus, bruschettas, chicken satay)
extensive, featuring many names you’ll already be familiar that works well as a light lunch; while the mains revolve
with. Pošip, Plavac, sourced from local vineyards with ever- grilled steak, tuna and lamb choices, alongside the odd
growing reputation, and a dozen malvazijas and chardon- novelty such as the duck burger. Desserts are excellent
nays that would take paragraphs alone. For dessert, the and Peppers also works well as a drinks bar, with British
coconut mousse with white chocolate is well regarded summertime staples like Pimms and lemonade on offer as

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2019 17


Restaurants
well as the local tipple.QLapadska obala 20, tel. (+385- you can’t go wrong.QI‑2, Nikole Tesle 8, tel. (+385-20) 35
20) 48 75 78, www.pepperseatery.com. Open 12:00- 86 33, www.tavernaotto.com. Open 09:00 - 16:00, 19:00
15:00,18:00-23:00. (70- 190kn). A­P­B­S­W - 23:00. (80 - 200kn). A­P­G­T­B­6­W

Porat Restaurant & Bar


Slightly set back from the ferry port at Gruž, Porat serves Konoba
a Mediterranean-slanted selection of pasta, seafood and Dalmatino Dubrovnik
game in suave, minimalist surroundings. When it comes After several years building up a reputation in the alleys
to the fish the emphasis is on what’s fresh from the nearby south of StradunDalmatino has moved uphill to Prijeko,
market;although the accompanying sauces and spices where it now has dining rooms on either side of the street.
may well bea lot more imaginative than what you get in The recipe for success remains the same, with Dalmatian
a more traditional Dalmatian restaurant. Good wine list, classics served up with a touch of modern European flair,
and plate-splatteringly wonderful desserts.QH‑1, Obala with a few international dishes thrown in to keep the more
Stjepana Radića 30, tel. (+385-20) 33 35 52, www. unadventurous tourists happy. One local speciality that you
porat-dubrovnik.com. Open 08:00–23:00. (70 - 150kn). should try is žrnovskimakaruli, the tubular pasta from Korčula
A­P­G­X­T­U­B­S­6­W ­i which is here served with a choice of beef, shrimp or truffles.
QC‑3, Prijeko 15, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 70/(+385-) 098 32 74
Stara loza
One of the select few Dubrovnik restaurants to get a recom- 04, www.dalmatino-dubrovnik.com. Open 08:00-23:00.
mendation from Michelin, the Prijeko Palace Hotel’s fine- (70 - 200kn). A­P­G­X­T­U­B­J­6­W
dining restaurant offers a well-balanced menu of European
classics (from beef tenderloin to local squid), beautifully Konoba Jezuite
prepared and presented. The starters involve a few notable With outdoor seating under the trees opposite the Je-
adventures in global fusion, and the dessert list is second to suit Church, Jezuite offers a tradition-meets-creativity
none. For a total blow-out, the multi-course tasting menus approach to food that will suit the light eater and slap-up
are well-worth considering. There are great views from diner alike.  The mains revolve around tried-and-tested fish,
the indoor part of the restaurant and the rooftop terrace is chicken and steak options (they will throw game onto the
quite simply stunning – be sure to reserve.QC‑2, Prijeko 22, menu when they get it fresh) but are all presented with a
tel. (+385-20) 32 11 45, www.prijekopalace.com. Open bit of imagination, with a lot of attention devoted to get-
08:00-22:00. (100 - 210 kn). A­P­G­B­J­W ­i ting the right blend of sauces and spices. Given some seri-
ously ambitious desserts, this is a good place to push the
Taverna Otto boat out. QC‑4, Poljana Ruđera Boškovića 5, tel. (+385-
This charming little taverne has an atmosphere reminiscent 20) 30 10 14, www.dubrovnikrestaurant.com/. Open
of a French bistro. It’s attracting more and more admirers 08:00-23:00. (60 - 150kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­J­W ­i
thanks to its attractive décor, great terrace and excellent
food. We especially recommend the spicy pork ribs, grilled Pjatanca
fish fillet and chocolate fondant. But whatever you choose, Head towards Hotel Excelsior east of the Old Town and you
come to this simple family run establishment. Seek their
advice and you might just get something a little out of the
Breakfast ordinary – real home cooking. Try succulent lamb baked un-
Orlando der an iron bell.QL‑5, Koločepska 2, tel. (+385-) 098 938 00
A perfect spot for breakfast on a warm day: this place 23. Open 09:00-24:00. (50 - 180kn). A­G­X­T­B­W
has just three tables inside but a wonderful terrace
right on Stradun. Apart from home-baked rolls and Pupo
croissants, you can treat yourself to dalmatian cured Compact and bijou, this small tavern offers a variety of well-
ham, scrambled eggs, fresh juice, tea and coffee. A bit prepared seafood dishes and steaks as various pasta choices
on the pricey side due to the prime location.QC,D‑2, for a light lunch. Outdoor seating immersed in the Old city,
Placa bb, www.esculaprestaurants.com. Open local ingredients, wines and tempting homemade cakes
07:30-23:00. (65 - 120kn). A­B­J­W make this value for money - worth visiting.QC‑2, Miha
Pracata 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 55, www.pupodubrovnik.
Pupica com. Open 08:00 - 24:00. (65 - 190kn). A­G­X­T­U­
Charming patisserie in the stunning Old city which B­S­J­W­K
could suit almost any European town, city, or village.
Their slogan states that ‘life without breakfast, is like Rozario
a day without morning’. So before you get ready On the extreme east of the Prijeko strip, this little res-
to ‘head out’ on your daily adventure, omelettes, taurant stands out from its neighbours for its family-run
toasts, as well as cakes can only do you good!QC‑3, atmosphere and homestyle cooking – that’s why you’ll
Cvijete Zuzorić 5, tel. (+385-) 099 216 54 54, www. often find the locals lunching here.QD‑2, Prijeko 1, tel.
pupodubrovnik.com. Open 07:00 - 22:00. A­P­ (+385-20) 32 20 15/(+385-) 098 89 38 54, 099 315 65
G­X­T­U­B­J­6­W ­i i 50, www.konoba-rozario.hr/contact.html. Open 11:00-
23:00. (90 - 175kn). A­P­G­X­T­U­B­S­J ­i

18 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants
Mediterranean
Above 5 Restaurant
Elegant restaurant with a spectacular 360 degree view
overlooking the ancient red roofs and stone streets of the
Old City. Along with a captivating view, they offer delicious
Mediterranean dishes made with a unique twist. Their
wine list consists mainly of great local Croatian wines and
they are constantly rotating their selections. They also of-
fer breakfast, such as house smoked salmon and avocado,
eggs Benedict or Royale, served on beautiful homemade
brioche. Reservations are preferred to ensure a seat, as
they fill up quickly and space is limited.QB‑2, Od Sigurate
4, tel. (+385-20) 32 22 44, www.above5rooftop.com.
Open 08:00-22:00. (200 - 250kn). A­T­B­J­W ­i

Amfora
While this restaurant appears at first to be quite modern
the alcoves and walls are very much adorned with items of
a distinct Mediterranean feel – very Roman indeed. Prices
here are definitely cheaper than other similar eateries, ei-
ther New or Old City, but the quality remains just as high.
You will be well fed here, have no doubt. If you’re based in
or near the Old City then you should not think twice about
jumping on the bus and crossing the city just to eat here.
QH‑1, Obala Stjepana Radića 26, tel. (+385-20) 41 94 19,
www.amforadubrovnik.com. Open 08:00 - 22:00. (120 -
250 kn). A­P­G­X­B­W

Aquarius
Location, location! Aquarius is the perfection location for
a restaurant as it is tucked away in a courtyard off the old
town walls. It even offers a great view of the cable-car and
surrounding hills as you can sit out on the open garden
terrace. Food wise, Aquarius has a solid seafood offer
which includes various sized platters; they also have pas-
tas, anti-pastas and grilled meals.  The assortment of local
wines adds to the homely feel of this eatery with attentive
staff on hand. QMata Vodopića 4, tel. (+385-20) 45 61
11, www.hotel-aquarius.net.

Banje Beach Restaurant


Running along the back of Banje Beach is a combined
restaurant-lounge-club with seating set out on decking
facing the shore. The menu is broadly international with
plenty of lamb, steak and duck, although there’s a pre-
dominance of seafood with tuna steaks, prawns and squid
setting the tone. It’s also a great place for evening cock-
tails; for wave-lapped proximity to the sea there is quite
simply no equal.QL‑2, Frana Supila 11, tel. (+385-20) 41
22 20/(+385-) 099 211 96 66, www.banjebeach.com.
Open 10:00-24:00. (60 - 200kn). A­P­G­B­J­W

Casa
The restaurant, which is downstairs from Villa Wolf, is rela-
tively cheap given the quality of hotel attached, and is very
straightforward and entirely Mediterranean in content. It
is situated at the beginning of a must-walk path, trailing
the coastline around the south-west of the city. The view

20 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants

from the restaurant’s terrace is serene, even allowing for a 1, tel. (+385-20) 42 63 19, www.nautikarestaurants.
few jet-skis, and while everything is but a short walk away com. Open 08:00 - 23:00. (70 - 180kn). A­P­G­X­
the area is quite peaceful and relaxed.QG‑2, Nika i Meda U­B­W ­i
Pucića 1, tel. (+385-20) 43 87 10, www.restaurant-casa.
com. Open 09:00 - 24:00. (50 - 300kn). A­P­G­X­T­ Gradska kavana Arsenal
B­L­W In real-estate they say that location is important and this
is smack bang off the harbour. Arsenal is open from break-
Culto fast through to dinner and lives up to its 1895 establish-
Looking for something out of the Old Town, head towards ment – ‘classical and irresistible.’ The mains vary pending
the port for a menu to suit everyone’s needy taste buds. on produce but there’s always pasta, meats, shellfish and
Culto offers scrumptious risotto, pizza, salads, pasta, fish, seafood of sorts. Whether you dine in or out, sip coffee or
sandwiches, and burgers. Their soups change almost daily take a 3 course meal, Arsenal has the ammo for a perfect
and are a great appetiser. The outdoor terrace is dandy experience. QD‑3, Pred dvorom 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 12
for some outdoor fresh air under cover.QI‑2, Vukovarska 02, www.nautikarestaurants.com. Open 08:00-22:00.
17, tel. (+385-) 099 321 61 41. Open 07:00-22:00; closed (98 - 178kn). A­P­G­B­J
Sun. (70 - 150kn). A­P­T­B­L­W
Gusta me
Dubravka 1836 Restaurant & Café Set on a raised terrace diagonally opposite the Ploče Gate,
Located on Pile, this restaurant overlooks Lovrijenac For- Gusta Me is a good place to work your way through the Adri-
tress and the Old City Walls. They offer delicious Mediterra- atic Croatian repertoire of fish, squid and shellfish in a dining
nean dishes in a romantic and peaceful setting. Their vast room that’s neat and modern rather than forcedly folkloric.
menu includes enough choices to suit everyone’s taste, The house speciality is grilled squid stuffed with ham and
such as a variety of pizzas, risottos and pastas, fish dishes, mozzarella; other tempting choices include sole stuffed
such as Grilled Squid or Salmon Fillet and meat dishes, with prawns, octopus ragout, and pašticada (beef cooked in
such as Dalmatia Style Steak or Lamb Fillet. As an addition- plums and red wine). QE‑1, Hvarska bb, tel. (+385-20) 42
al bonus, if you’re a Game of Thrones fan, this restaurant 00 13, www.gustame-dubrovnik.com. Open 08:30-24:00.
overlooks one of the scenes from the show.QA‑2, Brsalje (70 - 200kn). A­P­G­X­T­U­B­S­6­W

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2019 21


Restaurants
Klarisa Nautika
There are few places in Dubrovnik that have such a grand The place to splash out in style – a wonderful terrace
setting and remain affordable at the same time. With overlooking the bay by the Pile gate, and a rather grand
tables spread across the awesome arcaded courtyard of interior - your smelly trainers may raise an eyebrow or two.
the former Convent of St Claire, Klarisa is well suited to a Imaginative cuisine inspired by your maritime surround-
large group meal or an intimate dinner for two. The menu ings. Expensive, but definitely in a class of its own in Du-
is a broad-based affair that runs from pizzas to fillet steaks, brovnik dining.QA‑2, Brsalje 3, tel. (+385-20) 44 25 26,
so you are sure to find something for everyone. Traditional www.nautikarestaurants.com. Open 18:00-24:00. (510
Dubrovnik desserts like rožata and orange and almond - 900kn). A­P­G­X­B­J­W
cake are well worth sticking around for.   QB‑2, Poljana
Paska Miličevića 4, tel. (+385-20) 41 31 00, www.klarisa- Orka Mediterranean Cuisine
dubrovnik.com. Open 10:00-24:00. (150 - 220kn). Lapad’sharbour-facing shore is enjoying something
A­P­G­X­T­U­B­I­E­J­6­W of a boom thanks to the construction of the new ma-
rina, and Orka is another fine excuse to head out that
Komarda way. Seafood and pasta dishes are served in an elegant
A wonderful location by the water’s edge right by the old first-floor dining room (think bare stone walls, wooden
part of the city. Komarda has large stone terraces with beams, rack upon rack of wine and a fish tank), and
plenty of greenery, where you can enjoy the Mediter- there’s a secluded outdoor terrace at the back. Fresh
ranean cooking and a great view of the city walls.QL‑2, fish and seafood stews are the standouts; everything
Ulica Frane Supila bb, tel. (+385-20) 31 13 93, www. is neatly presented and the desserts are a knock-out.
restaurant-komarda.com/. Open 09:00-24:00. (60 - QH‑2, Lapadska obala 11, tel. (+385-) 099 690 33 34,
150kn). A­P­X­T­B­W www.orka-restaurant.com/. Open 08:00-23:00. (180 -
290kn). A­P ­B ­W ­i
Lacroma
On old wooden shack dating back to the Austro-Hun- Panorama Restaurant & Bar
garian period was restored to create this sleek,design- Sited at the top station of the cable car and offering ab-
conscious restaurant that looks out on the lush greenery
solutely fabulous views of the city and the surrounding
of Lokrum, the nature-reserve island just south of the
coast, you might be forgiven for thinking tat Panorama
city. Sea bass, tuna steak and some excellent steaks are
is a bit of a tourist trap. In fact it’s a more than respect-
the main stars of the menu the Croatia-wide wine list will
able restaurant that maintains high standards of food
take quite some getting through.  QLokrum island, tel.
and service and doesn’t leave you out of pocket. Fish
(+385-) 098 345 085, www.lacroma.restaurant/index.
and steaks top the menu price-wise but there are plenty
html. Open 09:00-20:00. (100 - 200kn). A­T­B­W
of pasta, risotto and salad options for those who want
a lighter bite. With cakes and cocktails too, it functions
LAJK
as café and bar as well as restaurant. Sunsets are highly
Central within the Old City, Lajk is so likeable that you can
popular; always make a reservation.  QK,L‑1, Srđ Hill (up‑
choose to dine in or out or for breakfast through to dinner.
per station), tel. (+385-20) 31 26 64/(+385-) 091 486 00
Your morning glory meal (08-12) includes eggs, spreads,
47, www.nautikarestaurants.com. Open 09:00-17:00.
bruschetta, crepes, croissants, omelettes and more. Lunch
and dinner have Dalmatian written all over it; octopus Open 09:00 - 21:00. From June Open 09:00 - 24:00.
salad, carpaccio, tuna steak, turkey medallions, Pag lamb (100 - 182kn). A­P ­G­X ­B­W
chops and the list goes on. Service with a smile and fair on
the pocket!QPrijeko 4, tel. (+385) 20 32 17 24, www.lajk- Posat
restaurant-dubrovnik.com/. Open 08:00-14:0018:00- Positioned on hillside terraces just above Pile Gate, Posat
22:00. (120-260kn). A­T­B­6­W has been one of Dubrovnik’s gastronomic stalwarts for
decades – although it is in recent years that it has been
Mezzanave Restaurant & Bar elevated to the fine dining league.  The place prides itself
If you’re looking for a restaurant to eat at while you’re out- on fresh fish, crabs and prawns; this is one place where it
side of the old city walls, Mezzanave is the perfect place to might be worth splashing out on the grilled fresh catch.
check out. Their shopping mall atmosphere brings a bit of Diners are rewarded with magnificent views of Du-
America to this ancient European city. They offer tasty meals brovnik’s walls, perfect for an evening of relaxed culinary
at a much lower price than in the Old City. Their menu indulgence.QK‑3, Uz posat 3, tel. (+385-20) 42 11 94,
includes something to suit everyone’s taste, from salads www.posat-dubrovnik.com. Open 08:00-24:00. (170 -
and pizza to pasta and grilled steaks. Find menu on their 270kn). A­P­G­B­J
Facebook page: Mezzanave.QI‑2, Dr. Ante Starčevića 24,
tel. (+385-20) 61 01 19, www.mezzanave.com. Open
08:00-24:00. (70 - 130kn). A­P­G­X­T­U­B­S­V­ www.inyourpocket.com
L­6­W

22 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants
hold of slow-baked lamb with seasonal vegetables, beef-
What’s going on? steak with truffles or the trio of lamb shoulder, loin and
ribs with pea puree. The fish specialties include sea bass
facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket fillet with vanilla and fennel sauce, tuna tartar, confit and
baked with seasonal vegetables, salmon fillet with lob-
ster sauce and more. Choose from eating in or out on the
Restaurant Horizont terrace with a glass of wine or an in house dessert to top
This appetizing new restaurant is located up a timeworn that main!QJ/K‑3, Dante Alighieri 2, tel. +(385-20) 41 29
stone staircase just outside of the Old Town and has an 10, www.sesame.hr. Open 08:00-24:00. (60-200 kn).
amazing view overlooking Porporela and the Old Harbour. A­P­T­B­S­J­6­W
They offer seasonal meat and fish menus, as well as tra-
ditional cuisine from not only the Dalmatian region, but Vapor
also Istria, such as Fresh Dalmatian Tuna Tartar and Beef A Micheline Guide Restaurant (recommended by Michelin
Tenderloin in a Truffle Sauce. For dessert, try a delicious guide for the third year in a row). For classy Mediterranean
slice of Chocolate Souffle or Carrot Cake and experience a food in a suave but soothing environment there are few
small taste of paradise in this romantic setting.QE‑1, Put better places than Vapor, just below the lobby area of the
od Bosanke 8, tel. (+385-20) 35 83 68, www.restaurant- newley refurbished Bellevue Hotel. It commands superb
horizont.com. Open 11:00-24:00. (150 - 200kn). A­P­ views of neighbouring cliffs and the open sea – and if you
G­X­T­B­S­L­W have your heart set on one of the outside tables, be sure
to make a reservation. The menu applies just the right
Sesame amount of creativity to classic local ingredients, with deli-
Dining at Sesame is a tale to be told, a 200 year old stone cate risottos, white fish in delectable sauces, and exquisite
house surrounded by natures greenery and a mere 5 min- desserts among the many highlights. Service is as smooth
ute walk from the Old Town. The food is all sourced lo- and courteous as you would expect.QI‑3, Pera Čingrije 7,
cally and the sous-vide method of preparing vegetables tel. (+385-20) 33 08 88, www.adriaticluxuryhotels.com/
is used. They bake 3 types of homemade bread each day en/hotel-bellevue-dubrovnik/restaurants-and-bars/
and the pastry chef makes fresh pasta daily. The menu vapor-restaurant. Open 12:00-15:00,18:30-23:00. (105 -
consists of cold/hot appetizers to sensual mains; get a 950kn). A­P­G­X­T­U­B­E­L­W­

24 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants

Pizza&Pasta
Mea Culpa Tabasco
Long-standing old-town pizzeria that has kept its stan- The menu catches the eye, if only for the prices. It’s cer-
dards high, with tables filling a broad alley that runs tainly cheaper than other similar establishments in the im-
alongside an open-air cinema. Mea Culpa’s thin-crust pies mediate area (Tabasco is just outside the walls, between
come in a range of traditional flavours as well as modern the Ploče and Buža Gates). Here you can get takeaway, de-
improvisations – the kebab pizza might appeal to some, livery, or simply eat in. The restaurant has a great shaded
while the Mea Culpa pizza goes for lashings of Gorgonzola terrace, from which one can relax, and watch the tourists
cheese. There is also the (nowadays inevitable) Nutella pass by in their hundreds. Both local and tourist opinion
pizza, and a vegetarian lasagne for those who need to give has it that this is the best pizza in all of Dubrovnik. The beer
the meat a rest. QB‑3, Za Rokom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 is also some of the cheapest in price.QE‑1, Hvarska 48a,
30, www.meaculpa-pizzeria.com. Open 10:00-23:00. tel. (+385-20) 42 95 95, www.pizzeriatabasco.hr. Open
(70 - 210kn). A­P­G­B­S­J­W 09:30-23:00. From May Open 09:30 - 24:00. A­P­G­
X­T­B­S­V­W
Pasta Lab
Feeling creative! Pastalicious is the key word here where Trattoria
hungry patrons get to pick and choose the fresh ingre- Lurking at the back of the newly-landscaped Sunset
dients and sauce available which is then added to the Beach complex in Lapad Bay, this oblong box of a building
chosen pasta and prepared in front of you. Quick, easy houses a large bar-restaurant with an Italian theme, serv-
and tasty! Grilled chicken, sausage, shrimp, tuna, beef ing traditional-style pizzas, salads, pastas and grill speciali-
and more to choose from! If you like spicy, get the Ara- ties. It’s an easygoing family friendly restaurant blending
biata sauce… Pizzas of all sizes are on the menu as well authentic local fresh foods hand selected by the chef.
as something for our vegetarian lovers too. Located just There’s an adjoining café-patisserie with some rather fine
off Stradun in the Old Town, its perfect for that stop off cakes. Live entertainment throughout the summer!QG‑2,
you need. QC‑2, Vetranićeva 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 63, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 17 (Lapad Bay), tel. (+385-)
www.fastfood-dubrovnik.com. Open 10:00-02:00. (38- 020 64 27 00, www.sbd.hr. Open 11:00-23:00. (40 -
75 kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­S­J­W 110kn). A­P­T­U­B­S­L­W

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2019 25


Restaurants
Seafood staff was exceptionally courteous, and were very helpful
in explaining the items on the menu. The restaurant itself
Barba is entirely outdoors, on a secluded terrace, but there is a
Interested in tasting an octopus hamburger? Now is your nice view of the hustle and bustle just below. Although
chance! Barba offers delicious octopus hamburgers for a situated at the centre of the Old City it is flanked by the
unique street food experience. As well, try some fried oys- quieter streets. Ideally suited to a place for a quick bite,
ters, tuna calzone or seafood pizza slices. A great spot for or a relaxing afternoon repast.QD‑4, Od Pustijerne bb,
all seafood lovers to eat a quick bite on-the-go or to sit and tel. (+385-20) 32 40 34, www.bota-sare.hr. Open 12:00-
relax on a cozy bar stool indoors.QC‑2, Boškovićeva 5, tel. 23:00. (28 - 135kn). A­P­G­X­B­J­6­W
(+385-) 091 205 34 88. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (35 - 69kn).
A­P­G­T­S­J­W
Street Food
Fish Restaurant Proto Bistro 49
Proto has a hundred-year tradition and is the hallmark This Bistro oozes street food for almost everyone’s taste…
of Dubrovnik’s culinary scene. Top local chefs expertly Open from breakfast to dinner, and open for a quick coffee
blend old world charms with contemporary trends. The through to a complete all out dinner, you can choose as
menu adapts to the availability of the best local produce you wish especially as its location is opposite the Gruž har-
and freshest fish; providing guests with only the finest bour, a major transit point. The menu personifies every-
Mediterranean cuisine. Proto is not just a holdover from thing from seafood to grilled meats and burgers. Vegans
a bygone era, it’s an integral part of Dubrovnik’s tour- and gluten free options exist too. The craft beers and local
ism renaissance.QC‑2, Široka 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 34, wines offer a typical Adriatic feel to your all round experi-
www.esculaprestaurants.com. Open 11:00-23:00. (150 ence at Bistro 49.QObala Ivana Pavla II 49, tel. (+385-20)
- 250kn). A­P­G­X­U­B­W 89 10 38. Open 08:00-23:00. A­B­V­W

Kamenice Buffet Škola


Kamenice has legions of fans around the world for its huge A tiny spot just off Stradun where you can nibble some
portions of tasty seafood and cheap, cheap prices. It’s a tasty local specialities such as pršut, marinated cheese and
simple place on the market square, near the statue of Mr sardines at fast food prices. Sandwiches are freshly made
Gundulić.QC‑3, Gundulićeva poljana 8, tel. (+385-20) 32 with home baked bread.QC‑2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+385-
36 82. Open 08:00-22:00. From July Open 08:00 - 24:00. 20) 32 10 96/(+385-) 098 909 40 18. Open 08:00-24:00.
(50 - 140kn). A­U­B­J (26 - 30kn). N­P­G­U­B­S­J­W

Levanat Burger Tiger


This slightly isolated place can be reached at the end of This American-style fast food joint is a unique addition
a beautiful walk along the coast, or by car if you are so to the Old Town Dubrovnik. They offer a variety of tasty
inclined to ignore the scenery. The menu here is heavily hamburgers, hot dogs, tortillas and chicken wings, as
focused on Dalmatian fish dishes and some of their spe- well as yummy fries and onion rings. Sit back and relax in
cialties are actually made from scratch, meaning a poten- one of their bright red booths or take a seat in the nar-
tial wait of up to an hour. However the views from the ter- row street between the cool stone walls. It’s the perfect
raced area are breathtaking and there is an attached café spot for a quick meal while you’re seeing the sites or after a
for those simply looking to kick back and relax.QF‑2, Nika night out on the town when you get the munchies.QC‑2,
i Meda Pucića 15, tel. (+385-20) 43 53 52/(+385-) 098 Vetranićeva 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 63, www.fastfood-
995 71 78, www.restaurant-levanat.com. Open 08:00- dubrovnik.com. Open 10:00-02:00. (44-85kn). A­P­
24:00. (150 - 780kn). A­P­G­X­B­W G­X­T­B­S­J­W

Orsan Tutto Bene


The restaurant of Dubrovnik’s yacht club has a reputa- A fast food joint with several branches throughout the
tion as one of the evergreen reliable spots for good city, Tutto Bene goes about things with a bit of class and
quality food. The emphasis is, appropriately enough, on attention to detail. The tortillas and sandwiches come in a
seafood. Plenty of terrace seating overlooks the yachts few local-ingredient versions, and there are some out-of-
and assorted marine traffic in the Gruž harbour.QH‑2, the-ordinary burgers too: Piggy Black contains Slavonian
Ivana Zajca 2, tel. (+385-20) 43 68 22, www.restaurant- pork, and there is a lamb version too.QC‑3, Od Puča 7, tel.
orsan-dubrovnik.com. Open 08:00-24:00. (80 - 200kn). (+385-20) 32 33 53, www.tuttobene-dubrovnik.com.
A­P­G­X­T­B­6­W ­i Open 10:00-24:00. (30 - 85kn). A­U­J­W

Oyster & Sushi Bar Bota


This is one of a number of locations around Croatia and Read more reviews online:
it’s very much fair to say that the Dubrovnik branch is ev-
ery bit as good as that in Zagreb or in Split. The restaurant
dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com

26 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


Photo by Višnja Arambašić
Restaurants
Vegetarian spectacular dishes, so the menu is constantly changing.
An additional plus is the extremely friendly staff.QObala
Nishta Ante Starčevića 9, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 99 49, www.
Jam packed into a street filled with restaurants is this small bugenvila.eu. Open 12:00 - 16:00, 18:00 - 22:30. (90 -
haven for non-meaty lovers. You’ll find a fusion vegan 370kn). A­T­B­L­W
cuisine from all over the world. Choose from falafel, curry,
soups, salad bar and much more.  Enjoy the local wines, D’Oro Bar&Grill
beers, and home-made juices that Nishta has to offer. A lot Food to put you in the mood! D’oro Bar&Grill exemplifies
of thought has gone into the design of the toilets, so make Mediterranean food with its local offer. One can expect
sure you arrive with a full bladder otherwise you will miss fresh seafood, catch of the day, anti-pasta dishes with
out on the joke.QC‑2, Prijeko bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 20 88, olives, prosciutto, cheese etc. The beers and wines are
www.nishtarestaurant.com. Open 11:30-22:00; closed refreshingly chilled, and probably best of all is the loca-
Sun. (58 - 108kn). A­G­X­B­S­J­W tion; a covered terrace right on the beachfront overlook-
ing the amazing Adriatic Sea. Definitely a place to chill and
be thrilled!QTrstenik, Pelješac, tel. (+385-20) 85 25 85.
Out of town Open 11:00-23:00. (90-160kn). A­B­W
Adio Mare
Whether it’s the location next to the birthplace of Marco Kapetanova kuća
Polo, the great charcoal grilled food or the chef who’s apt Head chef Lidija Kralj is Croatian TV’s Delia Smith, and this
to burst into song, Adio Mare has been a Mecca for tour- restaurant has a countrywide reputation. It’s a crime not to
ists for decades. It’s the one with the queue waiting for a try the fresh oysters from the Bay of Ston directly in front of
table!QUlica Marca Pola 2, Korčula town, tel. (+385-20) the sheltered terrace.QMali Ston, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75
71 12 53/(+385-) 098 172 52 52, www.konobaadiomare. 42 64/(+385-20) 75 45 55, www.ostrea.hr. Open 09:00 -
hr. Open 12:00-23:00; Sun 17:00-23:00. (90 - 180kn). 23:00. (80 - 125kn). A­P­G­X­T­B­L­W
A­P­G­X­B­J­6­W
Konoba Koraćeva kuća
Bistro Izvor Located on a sprawling property only a short drive from
The source of the Ombla river, which emerges from Dubrovnik, Koraćeva kuća offers stunning views, great
the bottom of a cliff at the eastern end of the Rijeka meals and rustic yet chic accommodation. The humble
Dubrovačka fjord, has been a popular local beauty spot menu sources home-grown organic ingredients to cre-
for years – and yet it is still off the radar for most tourists. ate southern Dalmatian specialties favoured by locals and
Situated on a bluff above the river, Bistro Izvor serves an visitors alike. Enjoy a glass of Croatian wine and soak in the
enticing mix of Adriatic-Asian fusion fare, backed up by best the region has to offer.QGruda, tel. (+385-20) 79 15
a robust list of boutique beers. The outdoor terrace, near 57/(+385- ) 099 334 10 00. Open 16:00 - 22:00. (100 -
the water’s edge, is a great place to cool off. Walk off your 200kn). A­T­B­L­6­W
meal with a riverside stroll to the nearby yachting marina
at Komolac. QRožat Gornji 1a, tel. (+385-) 095 396 07 77. Leut
Open 11:00-24:00. (90-140kn). One of the best places to try quality local cooking in
Cavtat, this little gem on the waterfront in the very cen-
Bota Šare tre of this beautiful little town is renowned among locals
for its risottos. They don’t mess around when it comes to
Not as famous as Kapetanova kuća next door, but the
steaks and seafood either.QTrumbićev put 11, Cavtat,
shady terrace and old-fashioned stone interior present
tel. (+385-20) 47 84 77/(+385-) 098 24 42 25, www.
stiff competition to the rather more modern neighbours. If
restaurant-leut.com. Open 11:00-24:00. (70 - 250kn).
you’re squeamish about raw oysters, this is a good place to
A­P­G­U­B­W
sample numerous dishes containing cooked little critters.
Excellent.QMali Ston bb, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 44 82/ Leut
(+385-) 091 175 44 79, www.bota-sare.hr. Open 09:00- Fancy a bite, Leut is a fine-dining restaurant within the
20:00/21:00. (80 - 130kn). A­P­G­X­B­L­W Sheraton Hotel which dines guests both indoors and
outdoors as it has lovely garden and sea views for those
Bugenvila in Cavtat warm evenings. Leut serves genuine local and interna-
A romantic and picturesque restaurant located along the tional delicacies and the spread they put on for breakfast
waterfront in Cavtat, tasteful pieces of artwork decorating is grandiose. With an impressive list of premium wines
the walls and flowers adorning each wooden table, give from Croatia and beyond, one can really feel at home here
this restaurant an artsy and creative feel. Their menu is with the world at your plate. QŠetalište Dr. F. Tuđmana
decided based on the fresh ingredients available, as they 17 (Sheraton Dubrovnik Riviera Hotel), Srebreno, tel.
use only fresh fish from the Adriatic and seasonal home- (+385-20) 60 15 00, www.dubrovnik-riviera-hotels.hr.
grown vegetables from Mljet and Konavle to create their Open 06:00 - 11:00, 12:00 - 22:00.

28 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


Restaurants

Lokal - One Suite Hotel tory with the addition of several chicken-based alter-
As part of the One Suite Hotel in Mlini, Lokal is a bar/cafe natives and a succulent baked octopus with potatoes.
that oozes class and creativity intertwined. From 7:00 to Food prices are moderate; sunsets and the sound of
12:00 they offer top quality breakfast and brunch. The lapping sea-water are on the house.QObala Ivana
menu is totally based on organic and seasonal ingredi- Kuljevana 18, Lopud, tel. (+385-20) 75 91 70/(+385-)
ents form local producers. There is gluten free to vegetar- 098 51 27 25, www.obalalopud.com. Open 10:00 -
ian dishes, fresh juices, organic teas, homebrewed coffee, 24:00. From November Closed. (150 - 300kn). A­P­
croissants; eggs prepped to your choice, pancakes and G­X ­B ­W
other delights. And if you’re not peckish, simply chill in
the bar with beverages and cocktails from this top notch Orsan Gverović
establishment!  QŠetalište dr. Franje Tuđmana 1, Mlini, This fine family villa has its own beach and moorings, and
tel. (+385 - 20) 22 22 22, www.onesuitehotel.com. Open has enjoyed a cult reputation for good food since open-
07:00-24:00. ing in 1966. Best known for its eponymous risotto (an
carnival of seafood) and salad made from motar, a grass
National restaurant Konavoski dvori that grows at the edge of the sea.QŠtikovica 42, Zaton
Tables are scattered in thick woods watered by the Ljuta Mali, tel. (+385-20) 89 12 67/(+385-) 098 27 15 55, www.
(“angry”) brook, whose force drives the millwheel and gverovic-orsan.hr. Open 12:00-23:00. (110 - 200kn).
feeds the trout ponds. Fantastic meat dishes (and trout) A­G­X­B­L­6­W
served by wait staff in traditional Konavle costume. You
may be accompanied by several busloads of tourists. Zure
QLjuta bb, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 79 10 39/(+385-) 099 If you opt to enjoy the shallow, fine sand beaches at
251 71 58, www.esculaprestaurants.com. Open 12:00- Lumbarda, don’t miss a meal at this rather special place.
24:00. (100 - 130kn). A­G­X­B­L­W The owners catch, rear and grow everything that lands
on your table. The food is excellent, and the pome-
Obala granate rakija a unique experience!QLumbarda 239,
There can be few better places to relax over a leisurely Korčula, tel. (+385-20) 71 23 34/(+385-) 091 512 87
Adriatic meal than Obala, set right on Lopud’s water- 12. Open 18:00-24:00. (70 - 180kn). A­G ­X ­U ­B­
front. The menu covers familiar fish and seafood terri- 6­W

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2019 29


Coffee & Cakes
Cakes Coffee
Café Festival
Dolce Vita This coffee house right on Stradun is the place where local
This colourful little spot does great cakes, muffins and bigwigs and intellectuals coagulate to chew the fat, literally
ice cream – among the best in town – just off Stradun. and metaphorically. You can pick up a well-priced light lunch
QC‑2, Nalješkovićeva 1a, tel. (+385-20) 32 16 66/ special here, and the terrace location couldn’t be better.
(+385-) 098 944 99 51. Open 09:00-22:00. N­P­B QD‑2, Placa bb, tel. (+385-20) 32 11 48, www.cafefestival.
com. Open 07:00-02:00. A­PGXTB­6­W
Mala truba
Dubbed by locals as one of the best places to get a Cave Bar More
nibble, the ‘Mala truba patisserie’ (meaning ‘little trum- This natural cave, located under Hotel More, has, with a
pet’) is a cute little store filled with delicious pastries, little help from the human hand, been transformed into
freshly baked bread, sandwiches, cakes, tarts and a a delightfully relaxing bar. Enjoy a cocktail and give rein
world of eatable delights. Lucija Tomašić, a cake master to your imagination!QF‑2, Kardinala Stepinca 33 (Hotel
who studied at the prestigious school Le Cordon Bleu More), tel. (+385-20) 49 42 00, www.cavebar-more.com.
in London uses fresh local ingredients and attention to Open 10:00 - 22:00. A­W
detail is seen in all her crafty foods. The concept is ‘good
to go’ so you’ll take your supplies out to eat! QI‑2, Vuk‑ Cele
ovarska 22 (Mercante Centar). Open 09:00-18:00; Sat Perfectly positioned at the eastern end of the Stradun,
09:00-14:00; closed Sun. Closed May 25 - June 10. N within spitting distance of St Blaise’s Church and the
Sponza Palace, this is arguably the best-situated café in the
Pastry & Cocktail bar Slatki Kantun city, and attracts hoards of tourists to its terrace as a result.
Another string to the Hotel More’s ever expanding It’s also the place where locals come for Saturday-morning
bow, Slatki Kantun (“Sweet Corner”) is a swish and coffee if they are early enough to snatch a table. Pizzas,
inviting café-patisserie positioned just above the burgers, salads and nachos adorn an extensive food menu
hotel’s outdoor swimming pool, facing out towards if you’re hungry.  QC‑2, Placa 1, tel. (+385 - ) 099 423 04
Lapad Bay. The sumptuous array of cakes and pastries 00, www.cele-dubrovnik.com. Open 08:00-02:00. (60 -
includes some exquisite cheesecakes and souffles, al- 130kn). A­B­S­J­W ­i
though it’s the “chocolate bomb” with forest fruits that Cogito Coffee Shop
looks set to induce most in the way of dessert delirium. In an arched passageway near the maritime museum, this
With a respectable list of alcoholic drinks and cocktails, cute semi-hidden gem is the place to go for people who
it’s a rather neat place from which to observe the sun- are serious about their coffee. With beans supplied by the
set glinting off the waves.QF‑2, Nike i Meda Pucića, Cogito coffee-roasting outfit in Zagreb, the cuppas that
13, tel. (+385-20) 49 42 00, www.hotel-more.hr. come out of this place are reliably strong, full of flavour
Open 10:00-18:00. A­P­B­W­C and carefully prepared by a trained barista. The place
itself is tiny, but seats outside on the cobbles make it an
Peppino’s Ice Cream altogether charming place to recharge.QD‑4, Stajeva 5,
Ice cream is getting better in Dubrovnik and Peppino’s www.cogitocoffee.com. Open 09:00-19:00. A
is one of the reasons why, with a great range of creamy
flavours (from crowd-pleasing Ferrero Rocher to more Libertina (Lući)
niche flavours like pistaccio an hazelnut) sold from a Cosy, snug, intimate – all words to describe some place
small shop right behind the Stradun. It’s available in small, and indeed small it is, but it also the oldest café
cornets or tubs at 15kn per scoop. QC‑3, Od Puča 9, within the walls, and not even 35 years old at that. Opened
tel. (+385-) 091 459 00 02, www.peppinos.premis. specifically for locals it would be fair to describe this place
hr. Open 11:00-23:00. N­W as Dubrovnik’s best kept secret. Opened by Lući, one of the
famed Dubrovački trubaduri it should really be on your list
Pupica of places to enjoy a beer or two. Don’t be surprised if you
Situated in the Old City, Pupica is the sort of patisserrie find you’re sitting in someone’s seat though. A thoroughly
(slastičarnica) which would be right at home in almost enjoyable experience.QD‑2, Zlatarska 3, tel. (+385-20) 32
any European city, town, or village, of character. Teas, 15 26. Open 10:00 - 14:00. G­X­B­6­W
coffees, and juices are a given, but it’s the wide selection
of homemade cakes and confectionary which offers a Soul Caffe
relaxing and refreshing change from the cafe culture of This vintage chic cafe and rakija bar, hidden within the back-
Croatia. This should be a definite on any list of places streets of the Old City, is the perfect spot to kick back and
to visit, and you’ll likely find yourself making any excuse relax with some friends. The musically inspired dim atmo-
just to stop by and sample yet another slice of what- sphere offers a great environment for a low-key night out
ever has taken your fancy.QC‑3, Cvijete Zuzorić 5, tel. on the town. For some fresh air, there’s additional seating
(+385-) 099 216 54 54, www.pupodubrovnik.com. outside, tucked in between the historic stone walls.QC‑3,
Open 07:00 - 20:00. From May Open 07:00 - 22:00. Uska ulica 5, tel. (+385-) 095 199 85 07. Open 08:00-02:00.
A­P­G­X­T­U­B­J­6­W­ Open from April 20. A­P­G­X­T­B­E­J­6­W ­i

30 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


Nightlife

Sunset Beach Bar Archives

Bars The Imperial Bar & Lounge


Reflagged as Hilton in 2005, the Hilton Imperial Dubrovnik
Buža has preserved its 19th century architectural features and
What a place to sit – rocky terraces overlooking the open façade. Spring 2018 renovation, was used as an opportunity
sea south of the Old Town. There’s no running water here to rebrand hotel’s bar to The Imperial Bar & Lounge preserv-
so bottled drinks only - which are pretty pricey - but the ing hotels rich heritage and combining it with modern com-
laid back music and hedonistic mood make up for every- forts and luxuries. The Imperial Bar & Lounge has become
thing.QD‑4, Outside the city walls near St.Stephen’s
one of the city’s best loved meeting spots and is a place to
tower, tel. (+385-) 098 36 19 34. Open 09:00 - 22:00 or
enjoy expertly crafted contemporary, historic and signature
according to weather conditions. X­B
cocktails, such as Milk Punch.QUlica Marijana Blažića 2,
Glam Beer Therapy tel. (+385-20) 32 03 20, www.dubrovnik.hilton.com.
Not much bigger than a cupboard but still one of the more Open 08:00-24:00. A­P­B­W
welcoming and versatile bars in the Old Town, thanks in large
part to its dedication to stocking a wide choice of beers. Most Clubs
Croatian craft brewers are represented, and there are few
rare international oddities too. It’s situated right opposite the Banje Beach Night Club
D’Vino wine bar so there’s nothing to stop you mixing your The Banje Beach at Ploče is where posers come to perfect
drinks and mingling in the narrow street in-between.   QC‑2, their tans, since Beach Club rents out funky loungers and
Palmotićeva 5. Open 09:00-02:00. N­P­G­B­J­6­W screens to protect one’s privacy from the hoi polloi. This
bar churns out cocktails and keeps ‘em dancing ‘til The Man
Rock Caffe Exit says go home.QL‑2, Frana Supila 10b, tel. (+385-20) 41 22
This legendary old-town bar draws loyal locals through- 20/(+385-) 099 211 96 66, www.banjebeach.com. Open
out the winter and all-sorts in summer. It consists of a 10:00-04:00. A­PBW
long first-floor room and doesn’t have any outside terrace,
giving it the intimate but smoky feel of a real big-city bar. Culture Club Revelin
The walls are covered with album covers and pop-star Back in the day, the 15th century Revelin Fortress used to
photos, while Rock with a capital R (mostly heavy rather protect the city from robust invaders, nowadays it is home
than indy) blasts out of the speakers. Refresh yourself with to the vivacious Revelin nightclub. Its two floors are often
Pan pivo on tap and a few craft beers in the fridge.QC‑2, jam-packed with punters dancing to local and interna-
Boškovićeva 4. Open 18:00 - 02:00. N­P­X­E­J­W tional music. The terrace is a great escape for some fresh

32 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


Nightlife
air and its seaside views.QE‑1, Sv. Dominika bb (Fort Rev‑ stout) are all available on tap, along with guest beers from
elin), www.clubrevelin.com. Open 23:00 - 06:00. From other independent brewers. It’s well off the tourist beaten
October 20 Open Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:00. A­P­W path and well worth the trip.  QObala Pape Ivana Pavla II
15, tel. (+385-) 095 901 4054, www.dubrovackapivovara.
Lazareti hr. Open 19:00-01:00; closed Sat, Sun.
These superb stone spaces in the former quarantine house
are given over to happenings of an arty/underground na- Gaffe Pub
ture, including quality DJs spinning electronica. An interna- For a low key night out on the town, slide down one of
tional multimedia festival is held here, which includes inde- the side streets off of Stradun and into this Irish inspired
pendent, cutting-edge music, theatre, dance and more. For Pub. The dark green walls adorned with Irish paraphernalia
info on programme check their FB.QL‑2, Frana Supila bb, and thick wooden tables give the place an Irish feel. Enjoy
www.lazareti.com. Open Fri, Sat 22:00 - 05:00. a sporting event on one of the many large screen TVs with
some friends as you savour a Guinness, Carling or Erdinger
Sunset Beach Bar beer. They also offer a variety of dishes and snacks if you
The Beach Bar is part of the Sunset Beach complex, located get the munchies, such as Hummus, Caesar Salad Chicken
directly by the sea and it is an ideal place to relax for coffee Wings or BBQ Ribs.QC‑3, Miha Pracata 4, tel. (+385-20) 64
or juice, through to cocktails or beer. If you are not directly 01 52. Open 09:00 - 02:00. From September Open 09:00
within the beach bar, the waiter will still be able to take - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. A­P­G­X­B­J­6­W
your order at any of the sunbed or cabanas areas or deck
chairs which you can rent for either half or full day. QG‑2, Irish Pub Karaka
Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 17 (Sunset Beach, Lapad Bay), Located a stone’s throw from the Stradun, this alien presence
www.sbd.hr. Open 08:00-24:00. in the ancient Croatian city has actually turned out to be one
of its more enduring nightlife landmarks. Karaka (a Dubrovnik
word for a traditional sailing ship that also sounds a lot like
Pubs the Irish term Craic; the name couldn’t have been better
Dubrovnik Beer Company Tap Room chosen) found a successful formula and stuck to it: neat and
Opened in spring 2018, the Dubrovnik Beer Company’s tap cosy interior, good service, welcoming staff, well-kept beers
room occupies the front end of the industrial unit where they (including Guinness, O’Hara’s and Erdinger) and lots and lots
actually brew the beer, but still manages to feel like a con- of international big-screen sport.  QC‑2, Između polača 5,
vivial and welcoming bar. Their own excellent beers (includ- tel. (+385-20) 32 39 70, www.irishpubkaraka.com. Open
ing lager-like Maestral, the Pale Ale-ishFortunal and Grego 09:00-02:00. A­P­G­X­T­B­J­W

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2019 33


Sightseeing
Essential Dubrovnik ings that line it, it is itself one of the best known sights of
Dubrovnik. It’s the place people bump into and chat with
Dominican Monastery (Dominikanski friends on their daily business, and dress up for a stroll in
samostan) the evening or at coffee time. Stradun marks the divid-
The Dominican order was established in Dubrovnik in the ing line between the earliest settlement and the parts
13th century, and with the building of their monastery a of the city that followed. This first settlement was on the
century later, they became an important part of the city’s land south of Stradun, and was then named Laus, Greek
defences – the monastery is at a strategic corner of the for rock, since it was originally an island. From the name
Old Town, vulnerable to attack from land and sea. Graceful Laus came Raus, Rausa and then Ragusa. Although Laus
stone steps lead up to the complex – notice that the balus- has probably been inhabited by Illyrian peoples since the
trades have been filled in to prevent rogues from looking 4th century, it was colonised in the 7th century by Greco-
up devout ladies’ skirts! As befits the monastery’s strate- Roman refugees from Cavtat fleeing Slav incursions. Later,
gic position, from the outside it is fairly austere, but inside Slavs settled the land across the narrow, marshy channel –
hides a jewel of a gothic and renaissance cloister (1456- this settlement was called Dubrava, from the Slav word for
1469), with a thick carpet of grass in the centre. The in- “oak tree”. The channel was filled in during the 12th cen-
terior of the monastery church is delightfully simple, with tury, thus creating Stradun, and the two towns integrated
a sweeping wooden roof and some fine stone furniture. and began to build the city walls.QB/C‑2.
The Dominican monastery, like the Franciscan, holds an
important library and collection of art including a painting The Church of St Blaise (Crkva sv. Vlaha)
of Dubrovnik before the great earthquake by local master Named after the saint protector of Dubrovnik, this is per-
Nikola Božidarević that has been invaluable to historians in haps the church most beloved of the city’s people. Sitting
reconstructing the look of the Old Town, as well as impor- four square on Stradun, its stained glass windows by lo-
tant works by Titian, Paolo Veneziano and Vlaho Bukovac cal artist Ivo Dulčić (1971) lit up at night make a wonder-
of neighbouring Cavtat. Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 08:30, ful show. A church has stood on this spot since 1368, but
11:00 and 19:00.QD‑2, Sv. Dominika 4, tel. (+385-20) 32 following a fire, the present church (1717) was built in Ba-
22 00. Open 09:00-18:00. Admission 30/20 kn. roque style by Venetian architect Marino Gropelli, who was
also sculptor of the statue of St Blaise standing above the
Lokrum Island entrance to the church, protectively holding a scale model
You don’t have to travel far to experience the tranquillity of of the Old Town in his hand. The church’s front steps are
island life: The island of Lokrum is a mere 15 minute boat the setting for some of the most important events of the
cruise. It’s one of the best spots for a swim. The island’s life of the city, including New Year’s Eve and the opening
shores are rocky, but the peace and the racket of crickets night of the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, which always
are something else, there’s a tiny saltwater lake which is used to include a concert by legendary renaissance-pop
perfect for kids, and there’s a naturist beach to the east of group and Eurovision contestants The Troubadours. Mass
the jetty. Thick pine forests have been complemented by in foreign languages can be arranged by appointment.
cultivated gardens first begun by Benedictine monks - the QD‑3, Luža 3. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - 18:00, Sun
monastery here was founded in the 11th century, appar- 07:00 - 13:00. August Open 07:00 - 24:00. No admission.
ently by grateful citizens after being spared from a great
fire in Dubrovnik. Austrian Archduke Ferdinand Maximil- The City Walls, Bastions and Pile & Ploče
ian Joseph built a summer house and formal gardens here, Gates (Gradske zidine, tvrđave, gradska
and a botanical garden was founded in 1959 – Lokrum is vrata Pile, Vrata od Ploča)
now a Nature Reserve. Lokrum’s hills are topped by a star Almost two kilometres in length, Dubrovnik’s city walls
shaped fort built by the French in 1806, from which you are among the best preserved and most attractive on this
have great views.QL‑3, tel. (+385) 099 254 67 77/(+385-) planet, and a walk along them is an absolute must. The de-
099 254 67 77, www.lokrum.hr. Boats leave every 30 or fences were built between the 8th and the 16th centuries.
60 minutes from the Old Town Port depending on the The fact that on the land side they are almost 6m thick in
season, the amount of visitors and weather therefore places shows their primary purpose as defence against at-
we suggest you contact the office for further informa‑ tack from the mountainous hinterland – the Ottoman Em-
tion. A return ticket with entry to Nature Reserve costs pire, for example, lay just a few kilometers inland. The walls
150kn per person, for kids under the age of 15, 25kn. were strengthened by myriad towers and bastions, and
were never breached – the Republic of Dubrovnik only
Stradun, Placa fell after Napoleon’s armies were invited in on condition
When talking about finding your way around town, you’ll that they would respect its independence. Two further
often hear people referring to Stradun, which you won’t fortresses, Revelin to the east and Lovrijenac, on a head-
see on any street signs. It’s the unofficial name for the land just west of the Old Town, provided additional stra-
main street Placa that joins the two main entrances to tegic defence. Revelin is a venue for concerts during the
the Old Town at Ploče in the east and Pile in the west. The Dubrovnik Summer Festival. Lovrijenac is one of the most
name comes from the Italian strada, meaning street. With atmospheric venues of the festival, with traditional perfor-
its shining limestone flags and the uniform baroque build- mances of Hamlet taking place under the stars. Your ticket

36 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


Sightseeing

to the city walls includes entrance to Lovrijenac, and it’s plus an extensive library with precious incunabula, manu-
well worth visiting. It was for some time used as a prison, scripts, a large collection of musical notations and a trea-
and is surrounded by delightful parkland with some of the sury of artworks. Outside the Church of the Little Brothers
best views of the city, a great picnic spot. The Minčeta fort, on Stradun you’ll see a lovely relief of the Pieta, and, on
just north of the Pile gate, with its stylized battlements, is a lighter note, a gargoyle below knee height. The trick is
one of the symbols of the city, and St John’s fortress hous- to stand on it facing the wall – it’s the test of a real man!
es the Maritime Museum and Aquarium. Apart from the Mass: 07:00 and 19:00, Sun 07:00, 09:30, 11:00 and 19:00.
fortresses, each of which has its own story and character, QD‑2, Placa 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 14 10, www.malabraca.
the Pile and Ploče gates are also masterpieces. From these wix.com/malabraca. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Admission
gates, you now access the Old Town over stone bridges 30/15 kn.
ending in drawbridges spanning the moat, now filled with
park benches and orange trees. Above the gates you’ll see The Rector’s Palace (Knežev dvor)
reliefs of St Blaise, protector of the city.Qtel. +385 (0)20 One of the loveliest buildings in the city and the seat of the
63 88 00/+385 (0)20 63 88 01, www.citywallsdubrovnik. Rector, the figurehead of the Republic elected within the
hr. Open 08:00 - 19:30. August 1 - September 14 Open nobility, whose term lasted for just one month confining
08:00 - 18:30. September 15 - 30 Open 08:00 - 18:00. him to these quarters which he could only leave on official
Admission 200/50 kn. occasions and religious holidays. The building changed
its appearance after two explosions of gunpowder stored
The Franciscan Monastery of the here, and its current appearance is mainly thanks to the
Friars Minor and the Old Pharmacy renaissance designs of Juraj Dalmatinac of Zadar and Mi-
(Franjevački samostan i stara apoteka chelozzo Mihelozzi of Florence in the 1460s. Alterations
Male braće) were added in baroque style in the 17th century following
The Romanesque cloister of the Franciscan monastery is the earthquake, and since the original building by Onofrio
an absolute delight, decorated with the remnants of old della Cava, creator of the city aqueduct and fountains, was
frescoes, and with delicate pillars surrounding a garden in gothic style, the result is a blend of styles which is time-
where orange trees grow. The monastery is most famous lessly romantic. The palace’s frontage has a delightful col-
for its pharmacy, among the oldest in Europe and the old- onnade with choir style decorative stone benches. Inside,
est one still working. The monastery houses a museum a beautiful courtyard is the venue for recitals and concerts.
where you can see original items from the pharmacy, The palace is now a Cultural History Museum where you

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2019 37


Sightseeing
can view the richly appointed offices and quarters of the ing 130kn for adults and 50kn for students and pupils
Rector, plus the arsenal, courtroom and prison cells. Art- includes entry to Rector’s Palace, Maritime Museum,
works, costumes and domestic objects of the period are Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeo‑
all on display.  QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 logical exhibit, House of Marin Držić, Dubrovnik Art
14 97, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00-18:00. Unified ticket Gallery, Natural History Museum, Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika
costing 130kn for adults, and 50kn for students and Gallery and Pulitika Studio.
pupils includes entry to Rector’s Palace, Maritime Mu‑
seum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress ar‑ Homeland War Museum
chaeological exhibit, House of Marin Držić, Dubrovnik The Fort Imperial on Mount Srđ is the site of a permanent
Art Gallery, Natural History Museum, Dulčić, Masle, Pu‑ exhibition dedicated to Dubrovnik during the Homeland
litika Gallery and Pulitika Studio. J War 1991-1995. Displays include the fall of the Republic of
Dubrovnik, the Serbian aggression in 1991, the victory of
the Croatian forces in 1995 and the devastating toll it took
on the local population and the city’s rich cultural heritage.
QK‑2, Imperial Fort, Srđ Hill. Open 08:00-21:00. Admis‑
sion 30kn. Children under 12 free.

Maritime Museum (Pomorski muzej)


Considering how vital sailing and shipbuilding were to the
growth of the Dubrovnik Republic, this is one of the city’s
most important museums. The display of models of the
fine galleons that were once built here is the stuff of fairy
tales – they, along with blueprints from the archives, were
used for building the replicas that you might glimpse in
Dubrovnik Tourist Board Archives the Gruž harbour today. Along with the Aquarium, the Mu-
seum is housed in the massive St John’s fortress on the old
harbour.QE‑4, St. John’s fortress (Tvrđava sv. Ivana), tel.
Museums (+385-20) 32 39 04, www.dumus.hr. Open 09:00-18:00;
Dubrovnik Natural History Museum closed Mon. June 15 - September 15 open 09:00 - 20:00;
(Prirodoslovni muzej Dubrovnik) closed Mon. Unified ticket costing 130kn for adults and
The collection dates back to 1872 when the Museo Patrio 50kn for students and pupils includes entry to Rec‑
(Native Musem) was founded with a donation from the tor’s Palace, Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum
Chamber of Trade and Crafts and the private collection of Rupe, Revelin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House
pharmacist and ship-owner Antun Drobac. The collection of Marin Držić, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History
of 100 year-old taxidermy specimens may not appeal to Museum, Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery and Pulitika
everyone, but kids will probably love it and learn a lot too, Studio.
and the museum is not so big as to keep you on foot for
hours. Other rooms are used for temporary exhibitions. Museum of Modern Art Dubrovnik
QC‑4, Androvićeva 1, tel. (+385-20) 32 48 88, www. (Umjetnička galerija Dubrovnik)
pmd.hr. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed This 1930s mansion just outside the Old Town at Ploče is
Sun. Unified ticket costing 130kn for adults and 50kn the place to see an extensive collection of Croatian mod-
for students and pupils includes entry to Rector’s Pal‑ ern paintings and sculpture which encompasses almost all
ace, Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, important artists since the beginning of the 20th century.
Revelin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of Marin QL‑5, Put Frana Supila 23, tel. (+385-20) 42 65 90, www.
Držić, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum, momad.hr. Open 09:00-20:00; closed Mon. Unified tick‑
Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery and Pulitika Studio. et costing 130kn for adults and 50kn for students and
pupils includes entry to Rector’s Palace, Maritime Mu‑
Ethnographic Museum Rupe (Etnograf- seum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Revelin Fortress ar‑
ski muzej Rupe) chaeological exhibit, House of Marin Držić, Dubrovnik
“Rupe” is named after the pits which were hewn out of Art Gallery, Natural History Museum, Dulčić, Masle, Pu‑
living rock in this granary, which was used for drying and litika Gallery and Pulitika Studio.
storing imported grain for the city’s people. Built in 1590,
this is a fascinating building in itself, and the exhibits show- Red History Museum
case the economic, cultural and spiritual development of The social history of Yugoslavia 1945-1991 is a source of
Dubrovnik. The folk costumes and textiles give the best increasing interest to visitors and this new venture, housed
flavour of the region where folk culture is still celebrated. in a former factory near the port, presents the answers to
QB‑3, Od Rupa 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 30 13, www.dumus. many of their questions. Mixing dutiful historical explana-
hr. Open 09:00-16:00; closed Tue. June 15 - September tions with a wealth of exhibits drawn from daily life, the
15 open 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue. Unified ticket cost‑ display begins by presenting a history of communism be-

38 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


Sightseeing

fore going on to explain why Yugoslavian communism, led Maritime Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Rev‑
by Josip Broz Tito, broke away from the Soviet model and elin Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of Marin
developed a path of its own. The sections on popular cul- Držić, Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum,
ture are really fascinating with a colourful array of books, Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery and Pulitika Studio. J
magazines, pop stars and pin-ups. The museum is fair in its
treatment of the subject, touching on the dark side of the The Synagogue and Jewish Museum (Sina-
repressive state and dealing with the reasons for Yugosla- goga i židovski muzej)
via’s demise.QH‑1, Sv.Križa 3, www.redhistorymuseum. The Synagogue (1352, the second oldest in Europe after
com. Open 09:00-22:00. 50kn. Prague) and Jewish museum are set in a building which
could be reached from within the surrounding houses in
The Birthplace of Marin Držić (Dom Ma- what was once the Jewish ghetto. A permanent Jewish
rina Držića) community here was founded at the end of the 15th cen-
This picturesque gothic town house is the place where tury following the exodus from Portugal and Spain. The
Marin Držić was born. Držić only became accepted as one community flourished and included respected doctors,
of the greats of Croatian literature after his death, as he was merchants and state representatives. Jews in Dubrovnik
a bit too much of a wild card. His many exploits included enjoyed relative freedom, but there were some restric-
sending a series of letters to the Medici family in Florence, tions on their activities at certain points in history. The
seeking their help in overthrowing the Dubrovnik govern- Synagogue is tiny and delightful, with heavy velvet drapes
ment, convinced that it was run by elitist autocrats. He and a richly painted, midnight blue ceiling. The museum
is best loved for his satirical plays, and he is regarded as contains valuable menorahs and Torah scrolls, alongside
one of the greats of European renaissance literature. His information on the history of the Jewish community in
birthplace has been transformed into an in situ exhibi- Dubrovnik.QD‑2, Žudioska 5, tel. (+385-20) 32 12 04.
tion of the playwright, whose comedies are regularly per- Open 09:00-15:00. Admission 50kn.
formed at the Dubrovnik Summer Festival.QB‑3, Široka
7, tel. (+385-20) 32 32 42/(+385-20) 32 32 96, www.
muzej-marindrzic.eu. Open 09:00-20:30; closed Mon.
July - August 31 open 09:00 - 22:00; Mon 10:00 - 18:00. What’s going on?
Unified ticket costing 130kn for adults and 50kn for facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket
students and pupils includes entry to Rector’s Palace,

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2019 39


Sightseeing
Galleries Sponza housed the Republic’s mint and customs house –
all the Republic’s trade passed through here. It was built
The Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika Gallery/Ron- 1516-1522 according to designs by Paskoje Miličević. Today,
ald Brown Memorial House (Galerija the graceful atrium is used as an exhibition space and ven-
Dulčić, Masle, Pulitika/Memorijalna ue for recitals. A room to the left as you enter is dedicated
kuća Ronald Brown) to the memory of fallen soldiers during the siege of Du-
This fine house next to the Rector’s Palace is home to a gal- brovnik 1991-92 (Open 10:00 - 15:00. From May Open10:00
lery with some of the finest views in Europe – the windows - 22:00. Admission free). The upper galleries were once the
look out onto the Cathedral, rivalling the artworks inside. place where the city’s artists and intellectuals held salons.
The three painters that make up the gallery’s title are fa- The building also contains the Dubrovnik State Archives, a
mous for painting local themes in eye-poppingly vivid treasure trove of documentation on the Republic. In the
style. Đuro Pulitika’s swirly, candy-coloured landscapes are gift shop on the ground floor you can buy replicas of these
a particular joy, and it’s a wonder that this little-frequented historic documents; the archives themselves are mainly
attraction doesn’t get a whole lot more visitors. The build- here for research purposes.QD‑2, Svetog Dominika 1, tel.
ing was repaired and renovated by the US Government (+385-20) 32 10 32, www.dad.hr. Open 10:00 - 22:00. Ad‑
and serves as a memorial to Secretary of Commerce Ron- mission free. From May admission 25kn.
ald Brown who in 1996 died in a plane crash flying to Du-
brovnik.QD‑3, Poljana Marina Držića 1, tel. (+385-20) 61 War Photo Limited
26 45, www.momad.hr. Open 09:00-20:00; closed Mon. A gallery dedicated to thought-provoking images of war
Unified ticket costing 130kn for adults and 50kn for stu‑ by leading photographers – essential for anyone inter-
dents and pupils includes entry to Rector’s Palace, Mar‑ ested in the nature of conflict or simply in stunning – if
itime Museum, Ethnographic Museum Rupe, Revelin sometimes disturbing – images.QC‑2, Antuninska 6,
Fortress archaeological exhibit, House of Marin Držić, tel. (+385-20) 32 21 66, www.warphotoltd.com. Open
Dubrovnik Art Gallery, Natural History Museum,Dulčić, 10:00-22:00. Admission 50/40 kn.
Masle, Pulitika Gallery and Pulitika Studio.

The Sponza Palace (Palača Sponza) Landmarks


For many, the most romantic of Dubrovnik’s buildings, with Dubrovnik Aquarium (Akvarij Du-
its gallery on Stradun and its mix of gothic and renaissance brovnik)
detail, this was always a public building. Directly facing Located in St. John’s Fortress, this underwater world is a
Orlando’s column, the scene of all dramas of public life, delight to visit. Wander around this tranquil atmosphere,

40 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


Sightseeing
as you view a variety of Adriatic Sea flora and fauna. The
sea animals include eels, starfish, scorpion fish, seahorses
and many more.QE‑3, Kneza Damjana Jude 12, tel.
(+385-20) 32 39 78, www.imp-du.com. Open 09:00 -
19:00. July - August 31 Open 09:00 - 20:00. September
09:00 - 19:00. Admission 60/20 kn.

Orlando’s Column (Orlandov stup)


In front of the Church of St Blaise stands a column with a
carving of Orlando (or Roland), nephew of Charlemagne
and legend of minstrel ballads embodying freedom and
nobility. The column was raised in 1418, and from that
date the flag of St Blaise flew here right until the end of
the Republic. Today you’ll see the white Libertas flag sym-
bolizing the city’s enduring spirit of independence. This
spot was once the marketplace and to some extent still
is the political ‘heart’ of the city: it was the place where
citizens were once summoned to hear state decrees and
to witness punishments. Orlando’s right forearm was used
as the standard for the traditional Dubrovnik measure for
trading fabric – a Ragusan cubit or lakat (elbow) – you can
see the rather more convenient measure near the bottom
of the sculpture.QD‑2, Pred Dvorom.

The City Belltower (Gradski zvonik, Luža


zvonara)
Look carefully at the bell in the tower that crowns the
east end of Stradun, and you’ll notice the figures of two
men, poised to strike with hammers. If your zoom isn’t
up to the task of making them out clearly, you can see
their two older brothers in the Sponza palace next door.
Their green colour is a result of their copper composi-
tion rather than their roots on Mars. They are affection-
ately known as zelenci – ‘the green ones’ – or, individu-
ally, Maro and Baro, the descendents of the two original
wooden figures. The bell is the only original part of the
tower – an older one dating back to 1444 was destroyed
and rebuilt in 1928. The bell weighs two tonnes and was
cast by a master craftsman famed far and wide for casting
bells and cannons: Ivan Krstitelj Rabljanin - or John the
Baptist of Rab Island. The tower’s clock with its sunburst
centerpoint is rather lovely in its simplicity.QD‑3, Pred
Dvorom.

The City Hall and Marin Držić Theatre


(Vijećnica i kazalište Marina Držića)
South of the clock tower on the eastern end of Stradun
begins a remarkable chain of buildings. The first is the old
Arsenal, with three (originally four) huge arches facing
seawards. Here, galleons would be brought into dry dock
for repair. (Now, it’s a place to bring hungry stomachs for
refilling, and for lubricating throats). The city coffee house
is a grand café with seating overlooking St Blaise’s Church.
Next door are the chambers of the city council, followed
by the Marin Držić Theatre. The buildings are fronted by
steps and balustrades – it’s a fine sight to see the theatre-
goers and orchestra’s musicians gathered there on a warm
evening.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom 1.

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2019 41


Dubrovnik Surroundings
Top Sights vac’s portraits are especially personal and full of emotion.
An exhibition space on the ground floor is given over to
Baćina Lakes (Baćinska jezera) the work of young artists, and the shows feature contem-
Located between Makarska and Dubrovnik, near the city porary works, a refreshing contrast with the antique mood
Ploče, in a small town called Baćina, the gorgeous Baćina of the rest of the house. There’s an idyllic garden at the
Lakes are surrounded by magnificent mountains and back, and the whole experience is a rather uplifting one.
beautiful landscapes. Although they are located near to QBukovčeva 5, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 86 46, www.
kuca-bukovac.hr. Open 09:00 - 18:00; Sun 09:00 - 14:00.
the Adriatic Sea, the seven lakes, called Oćuša, Crniševo,
Admission 30kn.
Podgora, Sladinac, Vrbnik, Šipak and Plitko, are freshwater
lakes. However salty water can be found at the bottom of Mills on the river Ljuta
the deepest lake, Crniševo.QBaćina, Ploče. The protected landscape surrounding the Ljuta is home to
a watermill and stamp system, which consists of eight flour
Bukovac House (Kuća Bukovac) mills, two oil mills, and three stamp mills. Part of this system,
A highlight of a trip to Cavtat, where one of the best- called the ‘lower mills’, was built after 1550, when Konvale
loved Croatian artists, Vlaho Bukovac (1855-1922) grew came to be under the control of the Republic of Dubrovnik.
up. As a child, he painted murals on the interior walls of The lower mills have been preserved until today. The mills
the lovely old villa, bringing them alive with colourful were built on a canal network, while some of them were
paintings featuring semi-naive animal themes. Although driven by three aqueducts. Most of the mills were on the
subsequent owners saw fit to paint over his works, they western bank of the river, apart from the Đivanović stamp
have been restored with some success, and the delightful mill which was on the eastern bank. The mill system was
exhibition space upstairs features paintings and sketches extremely important for the economy of Konavle and the
surrounded by original furniture from Bukovac’s day. Buko- Dubrovnik Republic as a whole.QKonavle.

Mljet National Park & Odys-


seu’s Cave
Established in 1960, the park is Mljet’s
top attraction. The park, encompasses
54 square kilometres at the western end
of the island, with an astonishing interior
and coastline beauty. Veliko Jezero and
Malo Jezero (Big Lake and Small Lake),
and the villages of Soline, Babine Kuće,
Pomena, Polače and Goveđari all lie
within the park boundaries. Of interest,
this park represents the first institution-
alised attempt to protect the native eco-
system in the Adriatic.
Odysseus’s Cave (Odisejeva Špilja)
Technically that would be Calypso’s
cave; Odysseus, shipwrecked on his way
home from the Trojan War, only stayed
with the nymph seven years, and most
of the time he was pining for his wife
and his home. After walking along a
path lined with rock walls and wildflow-
ers, which takes you out above a deep
grotto and the crashing waves, you may
wonder why he was in such a hurry to
leave. You can pick your way down into
Photo by Meha, Mljet Tourist Board Archives
the cave; come back another day by
boat to squeeze into it through a 30m
tunnel. Local fishermen use the grotto
as a harbour.QPristanište 2, Goveđari,
tel. (+385-20) 74 40 41, www. www.
np-mljet.hr. Open 07:00 - 21:00. Ad‑
mission 125/70kn.

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Dubrovnik Surroundings
Narona Archaeological Museum Ston Saltworks (Solana Ston)
(Arheološki muzej Narona) Did you know that Croatia has one of the oldest salt mines
This archaeological museum is located at the former site of in Europe? Located in Ston, this salt mine is one of three
Narona, an ancient Roman City in the present day Neretva in Croatia and dates back to the 14th century. It was cre-
Valley. Open to visitors since May 18, 2007, the Roman ated in 1333 after the Dubrovnik Republic bought Ston.
Temple Augusteum forms the base of the museum exhibi- Annually, they produce up to 2000 tons of organic salt
tion. The museum’s permanent collection features statues, in salt pans!QPelješki put 1, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 40
pottery, jewelry, glass and money, which date as far back 27, www.solanaston.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00. Admission
as the 3rd Century BC.QNaronski trg 6, Vid, tel. (+385- 15kn. Guided tours 22.5 kn per person.
20) 68 71 49, www.a-m-narona.hr. Open 09:00 - 19:00;
closed Mon. Admisson 40/20kn. The Račić Mausoleum (Mauzolej obitelji
Račić)
Sokol tower (Sokol Grad) The Račić family mausoleum was built by Ivan Mestrović,
Kids these days will say ‘hey, this reminds me of a fortress a friend of the family, in the early 20th Century, in order to
in World of Warcraft’, and they are not far off. Enter an an- house their remains. Located in the middle of the cem-
cient fort located in Konavle and up on a 25 meter high etery, on top of the hill overlooking Cavtat, from the mau-
cliff, it dates back to 1420 and was most likely used for soleum you can look out at the magnificent Adriatic Sea.
military purposes. After long renovations, it’s open to the It took Meštrović two years to complete the mausoleum
public and also maintains some archaeological items in- and he finished his work in 1922. It’s dedicated to Our
cluding Bronze Age weapons for the feisty!QDunave, Ko‑ Lady of the Angels.QCavtat Cemetery, Cavtat, www.
navle, www.citywallsdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00 - 19:00. migk.hr. Open 10:00 - 17:00; closed Sun. Admission
Tickets 70/30 kn. 20/15kn.

Metković Natural History Museum, Metković Tourist Board Archives The Walls of Ston
In an area known for its rugged natural beauty, few man-
made sights are more magnificent than the grizzled
fourteenth-century walls of Ston. For many years only a
tiny stretch of this 5.5km-long line of fortifications was
accessible to the public, but after a long period of renova-
tion a significant circuit of wall was ceremonially opened
to the public in October 2009. Visitors can now scramble
around the ring of bastions that surrounds the town of
Ston itself, enjoying fantastic views of the surrounding
countryside.

The walls date back to 1334, when the Republic of Du-


brovnik gained Ston and the neighbouring Pelješac penin-
sula, and immediately set about securing it against poten-
tial Venetian or Ottoman attack. The area was well worth
the investment: the salt pans of Ston went on to become a
key source of Dubrovnik’s revenue, and helped to keep the
republic’s fleet on the seas.

Spanning the isthmus that connects the Pelješac penin-


Metković Natural History Museum
sula to the mainland, and consisting of 40 towers and 5
Over 340 stuffed animals, amongst which 218 birds
fortresses, the walls comprise one of the longest stretches
and 310 species that have been recorded in the
Neretva River Delta, are shown at this beautiful of surviving fortifications in the whole of Europe. Local
and modern museum. The permanent exhibition sources reckon it to be the second longest stretch in the
features the richness of the flora and fauna of the world after the Great Wall of China, although this eye-
Neretva Valley by using info panels, stuffed animals popping claim was probably intended as an attention-
set in glass showcases, multimedia audio-visual grabbing ruse by PR-conscious tourist officials. In the
displays as well as a 3D view of their habitats. One event, we feel obliged to report that a few idle seconds
event that touches your senses and especially for of web-surfing revealed that Kumbhalgarh in India boasts
those who love culture, arts, history and archaeol- 36km of surviving wall – although we didn’t bother in-
ogy all in one!QUlica Kralja Zvonimira, tel. (+385- vestigating any further.QSton, Pelješac, tel. (+385-20)
20) 69 06 73, www.pmm.hr. Open 09:00 - 16.00; 63 88 00/(+385-20) 63 88 01, www.citywallsdubrovnik.
Sat 09:00 - 14:00; closed Sun. Admission 40/15kn. hr. June Open 08:00 - 19:30. Tickets 70/30 kn.

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Dubrovnik Surroundings

Islands the interestingly sculpted menu of an old brothel near the


main entrance. Visit the town museum and the local galler-
ies within a casual morning stroll.
Korčula One of the other most prominent features of the island is
its folk tradition which includes the Moreška, a dance with
K​ orčula, birthplace of the renowned traveller, Marco Polo, swords, which you can witness during the summer months
is a compact jewel of Venetian architecture surrounded by (Mondays and Thursdays in July and August, Thursdays in
the clear blue waters of the Pelješac channel. June and September, s tarting at 21:00), heralded by drum-
Korčula town, alongside Dubrovnik, is one of the Adriatic beats as a parade of citizens in historical costume passes
towns which hits the news from time to time with reports through prior to the performance.
of rich, famous and notable types who buy up old town
properties for heart-stopping sums. There is good reason Korčula Tourist Board
for this – the tiny, almost circular old town occupying a QObala dr. F.Tuđmana 4, tel. (+385-20) 71 57 01, www.
rocky promontory is one of the most perfectly preserved visitkorcula.eu. Open 08:00 - 21:00.
and most romantic historic towns you’ll ever see with many
opportunities for shutterbugs. It doesn’t take long to wan-
der through the atmospheric streets, where you’ll come Lastovo
across gothic details and balconies that make you feel like Lastovo is not furthest away from coast - that honour goes
you’ve entered a Slavic version of Romeo and Juliet. Pay at- to Vis - but it takes the longest to get here, over four hours.
tention to the hidden architectural delights, such as relief Maybe that’s why the island culture is so different and well
figures on the Cathedral of St. Mark and, as rumor has it, preserved. Like Vis, Lastovo was a military base until 1989,

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Dubrovnik Surroundings

Remote bay with old stone houses and old fishing boat on the island of Lastovo, photo by Shutterstock

so access to the island was restricted. With not a great deal a hilltop to slide on a rope to the town centre with fire-
to do, the island became depopulated. But Nature has been crackers exploding at its feet. Humiliating indeed. At this
left pretty much undisturbed, so you could say it’s an un- time, as well as during summertime festivals, you can see
touched ecological paradise. the island’s folk costume, where the men wear scarlet and
black with embroidered braces and hats decked with col-
Many people sense in Lastovo a spirit unlike anything else, ourful flowers.
a sense of the breath of ages. Lastovo town sits uphill in
a basin facing away from the sea to escape the attentions With so little (except carnivals) to disturb them, fish adore
of pirates. The mellow stone of the houses basking in the
Lastovo, and you can be sure of an excellent meal here.
warm sunlight is captivating. Walking in the town’s streets,
those with a sense for the antique and the eccentric will
Lastovo has poor transport connections, few shops, and
wonder at a culture so very detached from modern urban
life. there is little accommodation apart from one hotel and a
few families offering private rooms. But if you’re ready and
Lastovo is a town of chimneys. In times past, a sign of able to explore, and happy to adapt to the treacle-slow pas-
the wealth of a household was the size and ornateness sage of time here, this could well be the start of an endur-
of one’s chimney, and many unusual examples still stand. ing love affair.
Another vital aspect of Lastovo’s heritage is the “Poklad”
- the traditional pre-Lent carnival celebrating the island’s Lastovo Tourist Board
deliverance from Catalan pirates. An effigy of the Catalan QPjevor 7, tel. (+385-20) 80 10 18, www.tz-lastovo.hr.
messenger takes centre stage, spectacularly released from Open 08:00-16:00; closed Sat, Sun.

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Dubrovnik Surroundings
Mljet Despite their tiny scale and the fact that you can still find
your own little Robinson Crusoe beach, these three islands
With five distinct forest tree varieties, abundant fauna and aren’t really off the beaten track - there are several hotels
lush vegetation, it’s easy to see why Mljet is called the used by tour operators and you’ll find a healthy number of
“Green Island.” Mljet offers a panorama of coastline, cliffs, tourists, particularly on Lopud. These islands are great if you
reefs and numerous islets as well as the rich topography need a relaxing break away from it all, and don’t expect wild
of the hills that rise steeply above the sea and plummet nightlife or a heap of facilities laid on.
back into deep valleys sheltering ancient stone villages. The
submarine world includes quite an array of fish and several
types of corals. With fantastic weather, sailing, recreational North of Dubrovnik
sports, swimming, scuba diving, hiking and bicycle paths
are only a fraction of the pleasures that you can enjoy here. The Dubrovnik/Neretva County consists of both continen-
The western end of Mljet has been protected as a National tal areas and islands. North of Dubrovnik, you can enjoy the
Park since 1960. natural beauty and peace of ‘Trsteno’ which is home to the
oldest arboretum in the world, dating back to 1498.
Mljet Tourist Board The Pelješac peninsula, the second largest peninsula in
QSobra bb, Sobra, tel. (+385-20) 74 60 25, www.mljet. Croatia, is famous for many reasons especially for those as-
hr. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00. sociated with the sense of taste and smell. Therefore, when
in the area, make sure you don’t miss out on the infamous
Pelješac oysters and wines amidst the intense beauty of the
The Elafiti Islands - peninsula.
Koločep, Lopud and Šipan
These tiny islands - the first two car-free - are fantastic Neretva
places to stay: you have all the sights of Dubrovnik on your
If you visit Dubrovnik in the spring, you may be surprised
doorstep but get to enjoy the peace and cleanliness of is-
to see ripe oranges lying on the ground everywhere you
land life, and accommodation is inexpensive. The journey
walk. Orange trees are so common that the fruit is often
by boat costs just a couple of Euro so you can travel every ignored, inducing a twinge of regret in visitors who have
day and explore if you want, just like on a bus, but a million to part with good money for them back home. Obviously,
times more refreshing! the warm climate gives the people of the Dubrovnik region
these southern fruits. But there is one more life-giver - the
Koločep and Lopud are tiny - you can walk all around
River Neretva. It starts its life as a brazen young thing, rush-
them quite comfortably. Their settlements (Koločep has ing green and impetuous under the famous stone bridge
two, Lopud just one) show in miniaturised form the archi- at Mostar, upriver in Herzegovina. In Croatia, it spreads out
tectural elegance of the Republic of Dubrovnik, as the city’s open arms to meet the sea, creating a swampy region. Gen-
shipowners built their summer residences here. Thus you erations of backbreaking work mean that this area today is
have fine stone villas, some of which are now super family- a fertile region sometimes called Croatia’s California.
run hotels. Lopud is perhaps the prettiest of the Elafiti is-
lands, and during the golden age of Dubrovnik there were As you drive north to Metković, you can stop at roadside
thirty churches on less than 5km2 of island. (Many church- stalls and pick up sacks of mandarins, local honey and spir-
es and palaces on all the islands now lie in ruins, but they’re its. It is also sometimes called Croatia’s Venice, as the life
still interesting to chance across on your wanders). Lopud of the people is closely tied up with boats, used for trans-
village has a well-planted old park with stone balustrades porting pretty much everything around here.The region
and statuary framing the sea. Lopud and Koločep have true has its own types of wooden boat; a smaller kind called a
sandy beaches, very shallow ones, perfect for children and trupa, and a larger one called a lađa. Although these tra-
the popular local ball game picigin. Most of Lopud’s Šunj ditional boats largely died out, in recent years an annual
beach is given up to sun loungers for hire, but there is a na- race (Maraton lađa, August 10 ) which attracts compet-
turist section to one side, and, according to a local legend,if ing teams from around the world looks set to revive the
you bathe with your loved one from Šunj, you’ll never part. picturesque tradition – the boats have a curiously flattish
construction which is very attractive but definitely renders
Šipan is the largest of the Elafiti islands with two little their navigation a challenge!
ports, Suđurađ (“soojooraj”) and Šipanska luka, plus a few
tiny hamlets in the interior. A bus connects the ports, tak- More curious still is the water life of the valley. The tradi-
ing a trip through a fertile depression where the islanders tional dishes of the area are often centered around two
successfully grow a variety of produce including grapes, aquatic inhabitants, the frog and the eel. Both are made
olives, figs and carob. Both settlements boast fascinating into a tomato casserole called brudet – you can try it in the
old palaces and the ruins in the interior include the former popular restaurant Villa Neretva at the town of Metković,
palace of the Dubrovnik bishops. Suđurađ faces Lopud, and where accommodation, tours by boat and photo safaris
this is a place for a swim and a coffee; while Šipanska luka are also offered. The area is also rich in bird life, particularly
has a couple of excellent restaurants. storks and coots, the latter being traditional hunting game.

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Near the town of Ploče you can see the Baćina lakes from victuals provided. Check out www.solanaston.hr. The fin-
the main road – a spectacular chain of seven interconnect- est vineyards in Croatia bask on Pelješac’s spectacular coni-
ing freshwater lakes, plus one separate one. They are beau- cal hills. This is the home of the indigenous Plavac Mali
tifully clean and have beaches suitable for swimming. It is grape, and on certain south facing slopes near the village of
hoped that the region will be proclaimed a nature park in Dingač the vines yield grapes of awesome quality. Dingač
the near future. is an atom bomb of a wine: rich, dark and strong, and was
the first Croatian wine to gain protected geographic origin
Metković Tourist Board (1961). It’ll cost you about €10 a bottle, but to enjoy the
QAnte Starčevića 3, Metković, tel. (+385-20) 68 18 99, Pelješac experience to the full, we recommend you try it.
www.tzmetkovic.hr. Open 07:00-15:00; closed Sun, Sat. Postup is another Pelješac wine often called “Dingač’s baby
brother”, while Plavac is softer, more affordable and very
quaffable.
Pelješac Peninsula
The Pelješac peninsula is so tenuously connected with the On Pelješac you can find wonderful stone villages, un-
mainland that it has the unique character of an island. The touched by modern times. Coastal hamlets are backed
first delight that awaits you is the gastronomic haven of by steep slopes, their shores fringed by pine. Pelješac is
Mali Ston. The narrow lagoon dividing Pelješac from the famous for pristine shingle beaches, and on the southern
mainland is rich in premium quality oysters, and the village side a bracing wind makes this a favorite spot for wind-
restaurants offer some of the best cuisine in the country. surfers, especially at Viganj. Orebić is the largest resort,
Nearby, the town of Ston is encircled by 14th century stone its architecture reflecting its links with the Republic of Du-
walls, 5.5km long and once including forty towers, which brovnik, and has fantastic stretches of shingle to the east
with the backdrop of the mountainous countryside look of town. A ferry connects Orebić with Korčula town, and
scarily like the Great Wall of China. These walls were built Trstenik to Polače on Mljet - ideal for island hopping.
by the Republic of Dubrovnik due to valuable salt pans The best thing about Pelješac is its unspoilt character. Take
and the town’s strategic position, and Ston is often called time to slowly discover and drink in its delights – a week
“little Dubrovnik” as the streets have the same layout and will hardly be long enough.
the same names. The historic salt pans still produce salt for
industrial purposes. If you’d like to have an active holiday www.inyourpocket.com
with a difference, you can join in salt harvesting, board and

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Dubrovnik Surroundings
Orebić Tourist Board Dubrovačko primorje Tourist Board
QZrinsko Frankopanska 2, Orebić, tel. (+385-20) 71 37 QTrg Ruđera Boškovića 1, Slano, tel. (+385-20) 87 12 36,
18, www.visitorebic-croatia.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00. www.visit-slano.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 08:00 -
12:00, 17:00 - 19:00.
Ston Tourist Board
QPelješki put bb, Ston, tel. (+385-20) 75 44 52, www.
ston.hr. Open 08:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 12:00, 16:00 - Trsteno
19:00. If you’re on the edge of your nerves and even a stay in Du-
brovnik brings no respite to your soul, it’s time to go green,
get back to nature and indulge in a spot of tree hugging at
Slano Trsteno. It’s not only the terminally overworked who will be
Slano, a small town located between Trsteno and the delighted by this historic arboretum – of course, for gar-
Pelješac peninsula, is among the most beautiful jewels in deners and plant lovers it’s unmissable. The centerpiece is
the crown of the Dubrovnik Riviera. Set back 2 kilometres a summer villa first built by Dubrovnik nobleman Ivan Ma-
from the open blue waters of the Adriatic in a bay of the rinov Gučetić in 1494. Rather than investing his wealth into
same name, Slano offers protection from the elements for a sprawling and luxurious home, he built a more modest
wayward sailors, while the numerous tree-lined pristine abode and surrounded it with gardens in which his spirit
beaches are ideal for landlubbers. could soar. More than one hundred years later, his descend-
ant Nikola Vitov Gučetić composed humanist philosophical
The strategic importance of Slano is firmly entrenched in texts here.
history, as the site has been continuously inhabited since Trsteno was thus created by a man with a vision and aided
prehistoric times. Ancient Greek and Roman ruins dot the by local sea captains who came home from their travels
heavily forested hills and centuries-old olive groves of the bearing gifts of exotic specimens. Over the centuries, many
picturesque bay. The Dubrovnik Republic annexed Slano people have invested their energy and soul into these gar-
in the 14th century and shortly thereafter it became the dens. A sense of gratitude to nature and water permeates
seat of the Republic’s Rector and a summer retreat for the – don’t miss the baroque fountain at the foot of the stone
wealthy and influential citizens of the powerful city-state. aqueduct.
The Franciscan church of St. Jerome, overlooking the bay, East of the villa lie a grape and olive press, once shared by
is one of the finest examples of 15th century ecclesiastical the local community. A little path leads from the villa to the
architecture in Dalmatia. sea where a pavilion overlooking the water offers a view
encapsulating the true meaning of this place – botanical
If we take our cues from the great civilizations which have splendour on the lush, island-strewn Adriatic. In this part
called the bay home since ancient times, Slano enjoys not of the garden, you can also see the oldest tree in the arbo-
only some of the most breathtaking sites in Dalmatia, but is retum – a palm almost 500 years old looking remarkably
also a perfect place for a sightseeing getaway. Along with healthy.
its unmistakable charms and proximity to Dubrovnik, the The arboretum includes the original 15th century garden
vineyards and seafood of Pelješac, and the Elaphiti Islands, laid out in renaissance style, with a geometric pattern of
Slano is a must-see. paths, a chapel, the fountain and aqueduct. There is also

Konavle Tourist Board Archives

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Dubrovnik Surroundings

DAY 10-18
1/2 DAY 10-14 / 14-18
SUNSET 18.30-20-30

a newer garden (early 20th century) featuring formal and Dubrovnik. A pleasant promenade fringes the rambling old
modern sections, with features typical of the southern streets, edged by cafés, a couple of good places to drink, a
Adriatic, plus a historic olive grove and natural woodland. selection of good restaurants and a rather lovely two small
Trsteno suffered quite badly both from shelling and from hotels. The promenade leads to the pleasant town beach,
a forest fire which broke out in 2000, but Mother Nature a park and a cemetery with an imposing mausoleum by
has taken over and it’s clearly business as usual. A walk sculptor Ivan Meštrović as its centrepiece. A little way out
amid the beautiful, tall trees offers welcome dappled of town are several large hotels which are good choices for
shade and the chance to enjoy the harmony of man and families, with good shingle beaches and occasionally all-
nature. inclusive packages. But we certainly wouldn’t recommend
The village of Trsteno is a modest little settlement with a imprisoning yourself in a modern hotel complex when
fine church, St Vitus, and two huge 500 year old Asiatic you can indulge in the delights of a meal in a traditional
plane trees. By the waterside just east of the gardens is a konoba in the town, and the rural Konavle region, famous
remarkable but dilapidated fort, and a tiny harbour where a for its traditional style gastronomy and folklore is on your
stream cascades down rocks into the sea. Magical. doorstep.

Arboretum Trsteno
QPotok 20, Trsteno, Zaton Veliki, tel. (+385-20) 75 10 Konavle
19, www.info.hazu.hr. Open 07:00 - 19:00. 50/30kn. Konavle occupies the extreme southern tip of Croatia, lying
between Cavtat and the border with Montenegro at the Gulf
South of Dubrovnik of Kotor. Just 30 km from Dubrovnik, it’s a place the city’s
residents love to head for days out in the open air. Fringed
by mountains and the shoreline, fertile fields lie in between
Cavtat speckled with delightful stone settlements. As well as great
The approach to this little gem of a Mediterranean town is food, wine and wonderful natural surroundings, Konavle of-
one of the most breathtaking things about it, as the cam- fers culture including art at the refined resort of Cavtat, folk
paniles of its churches poke their way into view above a culture at Čilipi mixed in with a healthy dose of ancient his-
canopy of lush trees. But that’s not all – this was the ancient tory. Konavle is particularly rich in folklore, with the folk dress
settlement of Epidaurum whose inhabitants populated you see in Dubrovnik often deriving from Konavle.

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Dubrovnik Surroundings
The name Konavle derives from the word from the Latin
“canale”, referring to the aqueduct you can still see which
carried water from Vodovađe in the mountains to Cavtat,
known during Roman times as Epidaurum. The region was
settled far before the Greeks and Romans arrived, and evi-
dence of the culture of the Celts and Illyrians who inhab-
ited the region before them is still visible. In the village of
Mikulići you can see Illyrian cairns (burial mounds made of
stones), while at Močići there is an underground temple to
the pagan god Mithras.
In Konavle you can also see stećci, decorative mediaeval
tombstones unique to this part of southeast Europe, nota-
bly at Brotnice and the Church of St Barbara in Dubravka.
Also dating back to the Middle Ages is the imposing for-
tress Sokol Grad, built on the foundations of Illyrian and
Roman fortifications.
Moving forward in time, in Konavle you can also see the
traces of the wealth of the days when Dubrovnik was a city
state. On the torrents of the River Ljuta you can see the mills
which supplied the growing city with wheat and olive oil.
You can get a sense of the genteel days of the 19th and
20th century when fine stone villas were built and culture
flourished in Cavtat, for example at the mausoleum of the
Račić family designed by renowned sculptor Ivan Meštrović,
or at the family home and gallery of artist Vlaho Bukovac.
Cavtat, with its picturesque setting on a peninsula, is also
a popular tourist resort in its own right, with excellent ho-
tels and pleasant beaches, galleries and lovely architecture.
Interestingly there are no other coastal settlements in the
Konavle region except for the fishing village of Molunat
right down in the south which is perfect for a tranquil stay
away from the crowds.
Today a happy circumstance is the growth of agricultural
tourism in Konavle, meaning the region offers an alterna-
tive to the busy coastal resorts where you can enjoy food
just as people have made at home for generations, plucked
fresh from the kitchen garden that morning. And of course,
to accompany your meal there is no shortage of wines
including local varieties such as malvasija dubrovačka,
plavac mali, kadarun and dalmatinka which are enjoying
something of a revival.
With such a diverse terrain there is no shortage of recrea-
tional activities on offer, including walking and cycle routes,
hiking to the highest peak Snježnica (1234 m) and horse
riding. On the coast you can enjoy the beaches at Cavtat,
Molunat and Prevlaka or scramble to find a hidden piece of
your very own undisturbed paradise. There are organized
diving trips, and there are two adventure parks and off road
buggy driving. Rather more gentle is a ride on the tourist
train through the Konavle vineyards.
At Čilipi, the village just by Dubrovnik airport, don’t miss
the Sunday folklore performances running from just before
Easter til the end of October. Turn up at St Nicholas Church
just after mass (i.e. at 11:15) and you’ll be treated to a spec-
tacle of song, dance and vibrant folk costume. Be sure also
to call into the Ethnographic Museum at Čilipi where the

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ethnic heritage of Konavle is preserved and beautifully dis- army during the early 90s. The village of Kupari is all but
played, and where you can buy an authentic souvenir. devastated, as it was a military base. Clearly a dismal situa-
tion for the local people, with a once thriving industry lying
To sum up, Konavle offers it all. Dubrovnik is at your finger- dormant and some fine old buildings on the waterfront
tips, but you have the great food, wine, relaxation and won-
empty and pockmarked by bullets, but renovation is pres-
derful villages of the Croatian countryside to enjoy, along
ently going on and things will get better.
with a super-sized portion of culture, all at a pebble’s throw
from the shoreline.
We highly recommend these resorts for the following
Tourist Board of Konavle reasons. The bathing is superb (tingly refreshing, mmm!)
QZidine 6, Cavtat, tel. (+385-20) 47 90 25, www.visit. There is plenty of excellent accommodation in private
cavtat-konavle.com. Open 08:00 - 20:00. July - August apartments, and prices are more than reasonable. With Du-
31 Open 08:00 - 21:00. brovnik just 20 minutes away by bus, this is a great place to
stay if you’re on a budget and appreciate a quieter environ-
ment and clean beaches.
Župa Dubrovačka
The road south from Dubrovnik snakes alongside a broad Srebreno is the centre of this little region, and here you’ll
bay dotted with some of the loveliest beaches to be found find necessities such as the tourist information centre,
on the Mediterranean.Their white pebbles are probably the banks, the post office and a large supermarket.
reason why the village of Srebreno was given its name,
which means “Silver”. The water here is that perfect aqua- Mlini’s waterfront is possibly the most unusual we’ve ever
marine colour so beloved of the holiday brochures. The seen: a picturesque village aspect is created by a stream,
town of Mlini is named after the water mills that you can a watermill and a massive plane tree dating back to 1752
still see here, driven by streams that race down the moun- right on the beach. Nearby Plat has a pleasant hotel com-
tainside and emerge right on the beach, bringing the sea plex with little villas nestled in leafy shade.
to a temperature that could be named “refreshing” or “freez-
ing” depending on the hardiness of the swimmer in ques- Župa Dubrovačka Tourist Board
tion. QŠetalište Dr.F.Tuđmana 7, Srebreno, Mlini, tel. (+385-
These resorts are not “fashionable”, one of the reasons be- 20) 48 62 54, www.dubrovnik-riviera.hr. Open 07:00 -
ing that this part of the coast was occupied by the Yugoslav 20:00. Sat, Sun 08:00 - 13:00.

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2019 53


Shopping
Antiques your artistic taste buds. The main motif of her paintings
is the city of Dubrovnik as its beauty is her endless inspi-
Antiques Tezoro ration.QC‑2, Boškovićeva 3, tel. (+385-) 095 399 16 85,
Take home a little reminder of renaissance Dubrovnik - www.jadranka-munitic.com. Open 10:00-22:00. N
jewellery, paintings, artworks, silverware...QC‑2, Između
Polača 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 35 23, www.moje-tezoro. Klarisa Gallery
hr. Open 09:00 - 12:00, 17:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Hidden on the first floor of the old Dubrovnik house and
Closed Sun. A
located in the true Dubrovnik saloča, this charming gallery
is filled with paintings by artists from all parts of Croatia,
Art galleries and in particular Dubrovnik. In addition, there are a great
number of sculptures and jewelry as made by young Croa-
AR Bastion tian fashion designers.QC‑2, Antuninska 1, tel. (+385-)
A rich offer of unique and authentic souvenirs such as 099 243 59 44. Open 12:00 - 24:00. A
items made of silk and ceramics, as well as objects with
Konavle embroidery.QC‑2, Mrtvo zvono 8, Bastion
Luna+Sol Art Gallery
sv.Petra, tel. (+385-20) 32 34 94/(+385) 091 201 19 99,
Prepare to enter a new world where the spirit of ancient
www.antoniaruskovic.com. Open 09:00-15:00. A
Dubrovnik is revived through a rich collection of contem-
porary art, paintings, sculptures, unique ceramics, jewel-
Artur
lery and antiques. See the gallery’s 2016 artist of the year
A fantastic selection of high quality local and Croatian
JožeCiuha’s artworks on display and exclusively for sale.
art. Look for the book “Dubrovnik” featuring 37 drawings
by Osvaldo Cavandolia, the father of “La Linea”, inspired In addition to visiting and buying in privacy, guests can
by episodes and stories from the history of the republic. receive expert advice prior to purchase. Find the perfect
QB‑3, Od Domina 2, tel. (+385-20) 32 37 73/(+385-) 098 authentic souvenir or home gift and don’t forget that
28 53 98, www.arturgallery.com. Open 10:00 - 22:00. they also organise transport and delivery worldwide. C

A QL‑2, Petra Krešimira IV 7, tel. (+385) 98 209150, www.


lunasolgallery.com. Open 10:00 - 14:00, 17:00 - 21:00, M

Homa Gallery Sun 10:00 - 15:00. A


Y

A colorful richness of works made by Dubrovnik painter


Jadranka Mihajlović Munitić just may impress and caress Romana atelier CM

Colourful abstract pieces featuring Dubrovnik motifs.


QC‑3, Marojice Kaboge bb, tel. (+385-) 091 522 98 MY

98/ (+385-) 091 501 33 18, www.romana-milutin.com.


Open 10:00-14:00,17:00-19:00. A CY

CMY
Talir
Exhibitions and works by famous and lesser known Croa- K

tian artists for sale.QB‑2, Čubranovićeva 7, tel. (+385-


20) 32 32 93. Open 10:00-20:00. Open 10:00 - 24:00.
A

Workshop Be Craft
This workshop oozesss craft with products made of glass,
stone and ceramics depicting sea designs and images of the
Mediterranean and Dubrovnik. The store is located close to
the Old Town and you can even get items custom designed.
QL‑2, Put Petra Krešimira IV 31, tel. (+385-20) 31 26 46,
www.becraft.eu. Open 09:00-16:00; closed Sun, Sat. A

Chic & Cheerful


Break Time - Nautical Bracelets
For an exceptional souvenir from Dubrovnik you have to
visit this jewellery shop of a different kind. Both Mirela and
Ionut have come from abroad and followed their dream
in creating handcrafted super cool necklaces, bracelets,
key rings and other bibs and bobs that feature nautical
icons such as mini anchors and compasses, all of which
are waterproof. You’ve got to see to believe these great
accessories!QC‑2, Antuninska 5, tel. (+385-20) 71 65 53,
www.nautical-bracelets.com. Open 09:30 - 21:30.

54 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


Shopping
Cvijet by Kike
For a beautiful flower arrangement for any occasion,
from weddings to holiday celebrations, this chic flower
shop will help you show your loved ones you care with
a beautiful gift. The tastefully decorated shop has tons of
bouquets and holiday decorations to choose from that will
suit any taste.QG‑2, Miljenka Bratoša 19, tel. (+385-20)
31 10 32, www.cvijetbykike.com. Open 08:00-19:00; Sat
08:00-14:00; closed Sun. A

Life According to Kawa


Life According to Kawa is the one-stop souvenir shop and
design store that everyone in Dubrovnik has been waiting
for. Almost all of its stock comes from independent Croa-
tian producers and covers pretty much everything you
might want to buy in order to round off your stay – ceram-
ics, jewelry, unique designer clothes, toys, toiletries, olive
oils, and speciality condiments from the salt pans of Nin.
The emphasis on artisanship and individuality extends to
the small but important range of drinks on offer – coffee
from independent Zagreb roasters Cogito, and craft beers
from Croatia’s best small breweries.QK‑3, Hvarska 2, tel.
(+385 - ) 099 668 01 45. Open 09:00 - 24:00.

Cigar Shop
La Casa del Habano
The world’s only La Casa del Habano situated on the
beach, with a wide selection of premium Cuban cigars and
pipes, lighters, humidors, cigar accessories and an admira-
ble range of exclusive alcoholic beverages. Furthermore, a
wide selection of men’s gifts for any occasion is waiting for
you.QG‑2, Šetalište kralja Zvonimira 17 (Lapad Bay), tel.
(+385-) 091 484 91 60, www.havana-cigar-shop.com/
la-casa-del-habano-dubrovnik. Open 09:00-22:00;
closed Sun. A

Delicatessen
Dubrovačka kuća
A treasure trove of local culture ready to take home: from
artworks to postcards, cosmetics, sweets, wines and spir-
its, all local or Croatian.QD‑2, Sv.Dominika bb, tel. (+385-
20) 32 20 92. Open 09:00 - 23:00. A

Gligora Wine & Cheese Shop


Situated in the city’s harbour, Gruž, this shop offers a
large selection of cheeses, wines, olive oils and jams. The
various delicious cheeses are produced by the Gligora
family in the town Kolan, located in the heart of the is-
land Pag. The Gligora family has won numerous awards,
including the World Cheese Award, for it’s Dinarski sir,
mixed cheese made from cow and sheep’s milk. Other
well-known cheeses they produce include, Kozlar made
from goat’s milk and Paški sir, cheese from sheep’s milk.
QI‑2, Obala Stjepana Radića 13, tel. (+385-20) 32 41
00, www.gligora.com/gdje-kupiti-sireve/trgovine/
gligora-trgovina-dubrovnik. Open 07:00 - 24:00.
A­G ­B

56 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


DUTY FREE SHOP

You can fly


with all you buy!

www.airport-dubrovnik.hr
T +385 (20) 773-100
Shopping

Kraš of jewellery is handmade in Dubrovnik by local designers,


The confectionary company Croatians have known and using a combination of Adriatic coral, freshwater pearls, as
loved for years. Try Bajadera chocolate and hazelnut sweets, well as semi precious stones with sterling silver or vermeil.
or a bag of Krašotice biscuits.QC‑2, Zamanjina 2, tel. Also at Boškovićeva 2 (C-2).QB‑2, Celestina Medovića 2,
(+385-20) 32 10 49, www.kras.hr. Open 08:00-21:00. A tel. (+385-20) 32 10 98, www.dubrovniktreasures.com.
Open 09:00 - 20:00. A
Taj Butcheraj Meat Boutique
Dubrovnik’s highly-regarded Bosnian restaurant Taj Mahal Križek
has branched out into the butchery business with this This family-run chain of goldsmiths was established in
boutique food store located  a few steps away from La- 1935. They have an extensive collection of modern jewel-
pad’s main road junction. The accent is on fresh meat (and lery created in precious metals, coral and pearl, and a wide
if you’re planning a cook up a barbecue this is the place selection of wedding rings.QC‑2, Boškovićeva 2, tel.
to come), although they also sell  salami-style sausage for (+385-20) 32 20 27, www.krizek.hr. Open 11:00-18:00;
those who want something for picnics or on-the-move Sat 09:00-14:00; closed Sun. A
snacks. They stock the kind  of locally-produced relishes
and chill sauces that make ideal souvenirs.QH‑2, Dalma‑ Namfleg Watches and Jewelry
tinska 40, tel. (+385-20) 41 61 51. Open 07:00-20:00; Sat A boutique specializing in cloisonné pieces made up of
07:00-15:00; closed Sun. delicate silver compartments filled with vividly-coloured
enamel which is fired, polished and plated to a vivid lus-
tre. Jewelry is available in a choice of designs and colour
Jewellery & accessories schemes, while the watches with enamelled faces are sim-
Clara Stones ply stunning.QB‑2, Đorđićeva ulica 4, tel. (+385-) 091 590
26 20, www.namfleg.com. Open 09:00-22:00. A­J
Handmade unique pieces of jewelry made from carefully
chosen Adriatic red corals, pearls, semiprecious and pre-
cious stones, which may leave some women breathless. Souvenirs
The uniqueness of this store is its presentation depart-
ment which shows how a coral branch is worked on and Duty Free Shop
the different phases of its lifecycle.QC‑2, Nalješkovićeva One of the perks of travelling is being able to buy
8, tel. (+385-20) 32 17 06, www.clarastones.com. Open duty free. The Dubrovnik Duty Free Shop offers the
09:30-19:00. A­J expected range of products you see at similar stores,
the exception here is the traditional Croatian products
Croata and gift packages which will exemplify your stay in our
Croatia, home to the cravat, and home too to Croata, a store grand city. You won’t have to rush as the shop opens
in which you will find a rich array of ties, scarves, and more, 1.5 hours prior to the first international flight of the
all made from the finest of silks. Croata boasts several entire- day and closes 1 hour after the last designated flight.
ly unique designs so gifts from here can be that much more QDubrovnik Airport, Čilipi, Konavle.
special. Croata’s shops in Dubrovnik and Split also contain a Museum Shop
Shop Museum, a display intended to showcase local heri- One of the better examples of a museum gift shop in
tage.QD‑3, Pred dvorom 2, tel. (+385-20) 64 10 66, www. Croatia, this small but well-stocked room at the back of
croata.hr. Open 09:00 - 22:00. A the Rector’s Palace carries a tasteful range of mugs, bags,
scarves and jewelry inspired by pictures and objects in
Dubrovnik Treasures the museum’s collection. The postcards have a bit more
Dubrovnik Treasures offers a large selection of high- class than those on offer elsewhere.QD‑3, Pred Dvorom
quality jewellery for a great price. Along with authentic 3, tel. (+385-20) 32 10 39, www.dumus.hr/hr/sto-raditi/
and traditional Croatian jewellery, they also have many muzejska-prodavaonica. Open 09:00 - 18:00. A­W
pieces made with a unique or modern design. Each piece

58 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


Shopping
Jewelry with character
Diana Voytenko - Owner
DIYP: Could you tell us more about Namfleg Watches
and Jewellery?
Diana: Namfleg is the continuation of the tradition of the
famous jeweller Fabergé. The concept was developed in
the same great country, Russia, and grew into an interna-
tional brand based in Zürich. The inspiration which started
with antique enamelled watches gave rise to the brand
with everything you see in our shops today. The greater
part is produced in Russia, and the watches in Switzerland.
Some of the collection is made onsite in the countries
where our shops are located.

DIYP: What makes Namfleg jewellery and watches


special?
Diana: Enamelled jewellery has a lifetime guarantee. Each
piece is a work of art whose creation by hand requires a
special kind of experience. The watches’ handmade di-
als are made in strictly limited quantities. We are unique
and special in the world for creating dials from Florentine
mosaic. They are made from a great many tiny, thin pieces
of stone joined together to create a unique picture that’s
hard to describe in words. You have to see it, to hold it in
your hands. The watch radiates the energy of beauty and
distinctiveness.

DIYP: What would you highlight from the Spring /


Summer 2019 collection of jewellery and watches?
Diana: All of the collections are beautiful and special. It’s
impossible to highlight anything in particular. There are so
many designs that everyone can find a piece to fall in love
with.

DIYP: What awaits us in the Autumn collection, any-


thing new?
Diana: I am particularly
fond of the mother and
child collection because
I created it. My idea was
to create the ideal gift
for every woman during
her pregnancy because
it holds the miracle of
the life she is creating. I
created the ideal gift for
that time –a two-part
pendant with one part
representing the moth-
er and the other the
child. Once the child has
been born the mother
can remove the little tabwhich says “Place picture here”
and can put it on the child’s cot or pram. In this way she
gives some of her energy to, connects with and protects
her child. This is an ideal gift for any woman, particularly
expectant mothers and mothers with small children. This is
something which radiates the miracle of love.

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2019 59


Arrival & Getting Around
Arriving by boat tia Airlines first. You may save yourself some money and a
14 hour journey! Ticket office: open 05:30 - 21:30, tel. 060
There are two harbours in Dubrovnik: the centuries-old 30 50 70 for information. Changing money: head east for
harbour snug against the walls of the Old Town, and the Gruž harbour, where there are ATMs and exchange offices.
commercial port at Gruž. The Jadrolinija ferry office and Toilets: inside the terminal, costing 3kn. Left luggage: the
quay are at Gruž, a ten minute bus ride from the Old Town. cloakroom (garderoba) works 04:30 - 22:00, 5kn for the first
The port looks onto the Lapad peninsula, where many of hour, and 1.50kn per hour thereafter. Public phones are on
Dubrovnik’s hotels are located. Getting to town: hop onto the platform. Getting to town: buses to town stop right
an orange bus numbered 1A, 1B, 1C or 3. A ticket for a sin- outside the station; take line 1A, 1B, or 3. Tickets cost 15kn
gle trip costs 12 kn if you buy it from a news kiosk, 15 kn if from the driver or 12kn if you buy them in a kiosk or in a
you buy it from the driver. Tickets must be validated using ticket office. Taxis wait by the platform.
the machine next to the driver immediately upon boarding.
Coach Station (Autobusni kolodvor)
G&V Line QH‑1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 44A, tel. (+385-) 060 30
Catamaran (Nona Ana) line from Dubrovnik to Mljet via 50 70, www.kolodvor.hr. Open 05:30-22:30.
Šipan, sails to Korčula and Lastovo in July and August. Tick-
ets can be bought in Gruž Harbour in front of the boat at
least half an hour before departure (one hour in July and Arriving by car
August). As changes to time-table are possible, check it by For the time being, there is a motorway to Ploče (exit
calling the phone number mentioned above 8:00 - 16:00. Karamatići), 100 km away from Dubrovnik. After the exit
Catamaran cannot board any vehicles.QG‑1, Vukovarska just follow signs for Dubrovnik. Just south of Metković you
36, tel. (+385-20) 31 31 19, www.gv-line.hr. 35 - 95kn pass through a corridor belonging to Bosnia and Herzego-
one way per person depending on time of the year and vina, so keep your passport or ID card handy. Check “Visa”
your final destination. under City Basics.
Via Bosnia and Herzegovina: You can enter BiH from
Jadrolinija the A3 (E70) heading east from Zagreb, or via one of the
Jadrolinija ferries operate to Elafiti islands, Mljet island, be- roads heading south from Hungary. Of the possible routes,
tween Mljet and Pelješac, and to the Italian port of Bari. Bosanska Gradiška – Banja Luka – Jajce – Mostar is prob-
During summer, May 31 - September 30 there is also a daily ably quickest, but you may wish to take a detour through
catamaran line connecting Dubrovnik to Split via Korčula the fair city of Sarajevo. When you get into Dubrovnik, a one
and Hvar islands. Tickets for local catamarans and interna- way system leads east and west of the Old Town – try to
tional ferries can be purchased online. For local catama- have a map handy!
rans it is possible to book one month in advance (maxi-
mum) and no later than 24 hours prior to travelling.QI‑2,
Obala S. Radića 40, tel. (+385-20) 41 80 00/(+385-20) 41 Arriving by plane
83 80, www.jadrolinija.hr. Opening hours according to The airport is located 20km southeast of Dubrovnik. It’s
sailing schedule. small, clean, and functional. There is a restaurant and café,
plus information, exchange offices, and ATMs. A post office
Kapetan Luka, Krilo and car hire facilities are all to be found in the arrivals hall.
Krilo catamaran is running to Dubrovnik from Split and Getting to town: scheduled flights are met by an Atlas bus
back, via Milna, Hvar, Korčula and Mljet May 27 - October which trundles into town (35 kn one-way), dropping off at
6. The other line runs June to October from Dubrovnik to Pile Gate (main entrance to the Old Town) before proceed-
Split via Sobra, Korčula, Makarska and Bol. Tickets can be ing to the ferry port and the bus station. Municipal buses
bought at Corner Travel (Open 09:00 - 20:00. Sun 09:00 - no. 11 and 27 also connect the airport to the town centre
16:30.) and Elite Travel (Open 08:00 - 16:00.) agencies in (28kn one way), but only run a few times a day. A taxi ride
port at Gruž. During the summer season, tickets get sold into town will cost 200 – 250kn.
out up to 5 days before the departure.QI‑2, Port Gruž,
www.krilo.hr. 90 - 210kn one way, depending on your Dubrovnik Airport (Zračna luka Du-
final destination. brovnik)
QČilipi, Konavle, tel. (+385-20) 77 31 00/(+385-20) 77
Arriving by bus 33 33, www.airport-dubrovnik.hr.
The coach station is a short walk from the ferry terminal
at Gruž with all its amenities. ​There are frequent services Arriving by train
to almost all Croatian destinations, while international lines Although Dubrovnik was once served by a scenic narrow-
mostly head for Bosnia and Herzegovina, with a handful gauge railway, avid train-spotters will be dismayed to learn
of buses for cities in Italy and Montenegro. Coach travel is that the track was pulled up long ago. Those who are deter-
the quickest and cheapest choice for those on a budget, mined to travel by rail can still catch a train to Split (services
but if you’re heading for Zagreb, check prices with Croa- from Zagreb) before continuing their journey by bus.

60 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


Arrival & Getting Around
Public transport Tourist Information
The orange city buses are run by Libertas (hooray, free-
dom!). You’ll be amazed how efficient and clean they are.
Centres
They connect the coach station and Gruž harbour with the
Old Town and hotels on Lapad, and take you to Cavtat in
the south of the county, and Pelješac in the north. See the
company’s website or any number of placards or fliers in
the city for a route map. Tickets for journeys within the city
cost 12kn from news kiosks (15kn from the driver) and must
be validated in the ticket-stamping machines immediately
upon boarding. 30kn daily ticket is available only at Libertas
sales points and is valid 24 hours after activation. Out-of-
town routes cost a little bit more (the journey to Cavtat for The Tourist Information Centres enlisted below are the
example costs 25kn each way) and tickets are bought from official tourist centres of the City of Dubrovnik. All the
the driver. www.libertasdubrovnik.hr information and materials made available are free and
you are more than welcome to visit them.
Libertas
QI‑2, Vukovarska 42, tel. (+385-) 099 407 32 74/(+385- Gruž
20) 35 70 20, www.libertasdubrovnik.hr. QH‑1, Obala pape Ivana Pavla II 1, tel. (+385-20)
41 79 83, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00,
From July Open 08:00 - 21:00.
Taxi
There are multiple taxi companies in Dubrovnik, so there Lapad
should be no shortage of transport to get you from A to B. QG‑2, Masarykov put 2, Dvori Lapad, tel. (+385-20)
Rates appear to be uniform throughout the city, with prices
43 74 60, www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00.
starting at 29kn, and each kilometre costing you 9kn.
Lopud
Towed away QObala I. Kuljevana 12, tel. (+385-20) 32 23 22,
If you were naughty and parked illegally, a big truck might www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00 -
come and tow your little broom-broom away! Oh no! If that 19:00, closed Fri. From July Open 08:00 - 20:00, Tue,
happens, don’t be too sad, all is not lost. Visit the depot in Thu 08:00 - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:00.
Gospino polje (leads from Pile to Lapad, open 24/7). The
bad news is you’ll be charged anything from 500 - 1000kn Pile
for the trouble, plus a police fine of up to 300 - 700kn. Let’s QC‑2, Brsalje 5, tel. (+385-20) 31 20 11, www.
face it, it could be worse! The people there speak English tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 21:00. From July Open
and accept payment by credit card. 08:00 - 22:00.

Travel agencies Šipan


Gulliver travel QLuka bb, Luka Šipanska, tel. (+385-20) 75 80 84,
Excursions, unique Croatia cruises, tours, transfers... www. www.tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 09:00 - 13:00, 17:00
croatia-excursions.hrQI‑2, Obala Stjepana Radića 25, tel. - 19:00, closed Tue. From July Open 09:00 - 13:00,
(+385-20) 41 08 88, www.gulliver.hr. Open 08:00-16:00; 18:00 - 20:00, closed Tue.
closed Sun, Sat. A
Zaton
Korkyra QZaton Veliki 2, tel. (+385-20) 89 12 30, www.
QE‑1, Hvarska 42, tel. (+385-20) 42 16 89, www.korkyra- tzdubrovnik.hr. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Tue, Thu 08:00
dubrovnik.com. Open 09:00 - 23:00. September Open - 13:00, 18:00 - 20:00.
09:00 - 22:00. A

Vivado
Boat excursions, accommodation, B&B, airport transfer,
tourist information...QŠetalište Marka Marojice 16, Mlini, Get the In Your Pocket
tel. (+385-) 098 166 31 61, www.vivado.hr. Open 09:00 - City Essentials app
12:00, 16:00 - 19:00. N

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2019 61


Dubrovnik Basics
Smoking
Bearing in mind that Croatia is very much a pavement-café
culture in which people tend to socialise outdoors, it does
mean that outdoor tables at eating and drinking establish-
ments are more packed than usual. Recent law amend-
ments give cafes the choice in opting for smoking permits
or not, yet it is forbidden in all other enclosed public spaces
including restaurants where it has never been easy to find
a spare seat at even the most popular eateries if you’re pre-
pared to move inside.

Toilets
There are four public toilets in Dubrovnik Old City which
will cost you 5 kn. Two of them are in Pile, one in Ploče,
and one is at the Fishmarket (Peskarija). All are open 08:00
- 22:00.

Water
Tap water is absolutely safe for drinking.

When things go wrong


Crime figures rank Croatia and the city of Dubrovnik signifi-
cantly lower than most of Europe. Nevertheless, you should
keep your eyes on your belongings at all time. In case of an
emergency, Croatia has implemented Europe’s wide Emer-
gency Number (+385-) 112 which then transfers you to
Electricity police, ER or the fire department. Depending on the city
district, in case you were involved in an accident or were ar-
The electricity supply is 220V, 50hz, so visitors from the
rested, you will be taken to the nearest police station. In that
United States will need to use a transformer to run electri-
case, contact your embassy or consulate. The main building
cal appliances.
for ER is located in General Hospital in Roka Mišetića bb
(H-3) where everything necessary will be done. In case of
Money an car accident call HAK road help 24/7 (+385-) 1987,
and as for accidents on the sea call (+385-) 195.
There are plenty of exchange offices around Dubrovnik, as
well as abundance of ATMs that operate twenty-four hours
a day. Many restaurants and bars accept credit cards, but
not all, so be sure to have a reasonable amount of cash on national holidays 2019
you.
January 1 New Year’s Day
If you’re planning a trip to one of the islands in the area, you
should definitely plan ahead and carry the amount of cash January 6 Epiphany
you think you’ll need for the trip, as finding places that let April 21 Easter
you put it on plastic could be a problem. April 22 Easter Monday
May 1 International Workers’ Day
June 20 Corpus Christi
Roads June 22 Anti-Fascist Resistance Day
When behind the wheel drivers must always have their June 25 Statehood Day
driving licence, traffic licence and green card with them. August 5 Victory and Homeland Thanksgiving Day
Standard laws apply such as compulsory use of a seat belt August 15 Feast of the Assumption
and no mobiles except hands-free. Maximum blood alco- October 8 Independence Day
hol level for drivers over 24 is 0.05 mils. The speed limit in November 1 All Saints’ Day
urban areas is 50 km/h unless otherwise marked, 80 km/h
December 25 Christmas
on secondary roads and 130 km/h on highways. As they
December 26 Saint Stephen’s Day
say, leave sooner, drive slower, live longer.

62 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


Street register
A. Barca H-2/3 Gorica Sv. Vlaha H/I-3
A. Bošković J-2/3 Gornji kono I/J/K-2
A. Hallera I-2 Gradac J-3
A. Hebranga H-1/I-2/J-2 Gradićeva D-4
A. Kazali H-2 Grbava C-4
A. Mihanovića J-2 Grebenska H-2
A. Šenoe H-2 Grudska K-2
A.G. Matoša I-2 Gruška obala H-1
A.T. Mimare K-2 Gundulićeva poljana C/D-3
Androvićeva C-4 Hanibala Lucića C-1
Ante Starčevića I-2 Hladnica H-3
Antuninska C-2 Hliđina B-3
Aquarium E-3 Hodiljska I-2
Arhiv D-2 Hvarska E-1
Asimon E-1 I. Matijaševića J-2
B. Bušića L-2 I. Račića L-2
Bernarda Shawa K-2 I. Vojnovića H-2, I-3
Babin Kuk G-2 Ilije Sarake D-4
Bandureva D-4 Imotska I-1
Banjska I-3 Ispod Minčete B-1
Batahovina G-1 Ispod mira D-4
Batala H/I-2 Ispod Petke G-2
Biokovska G-2 Istarska J-3
Bokar A-3 Ive Dulčića G-2
Bokeljska G-1 Ivana Zajca G/H-1
Boninovo J-3 Ivanska G-3
Bosanka L-2 Iza Grada B-1, K-2
Boškovićeva C-2 Između ribnjaka H-2
Božatska I-2 Između tri crkve J-2
Braće Andrijića D-4 Između vrta K-3
Branitelja Dubrovnika J-3 Između polača C-2
Brdasta J-2 Izvijačica A-1
Brgatska L-2 J. Berse H-2
Brsalje A-2 J. Pupačića H-2
Brsečinska I-2 Jakljanska H-1
Bunićeva poljana C-3 Janjinska H-2
Buža D-1 Josipa Kosora I-3
Cavtatska K-2 Kantafig G-1
Celestina Medovića B-2 Kardinala Stepinca F-2
Crijevićeva C-4 Kaznačićeva C-3
Cvijete Zuzorić C-3 Kliševska G-2
Čubranovićeva B-2 Kneza Domagoja H-2
Ćilipska I-2 Kneza Branimira I-2
Ćira Carića G-2 Kneza Damjana Jude E-3
D. Pulića A-1 Kneza Hrvaša C-4
Dalmatinska H-2 Knežev dvor D-3
Dante Alighieria J-3 Koločepska L-2
Dinka Ranjine C-3 Komajska H-2
Dolska H-1 Komolačka G-1
Dr. A. Šercera H-2 Konavoska L-2
Dr. V. Mačeka I-2 Korčulanska I-3
Dračasta K-2 Koritska H-1
Dropčeva C-2 Kotorska I-3
Državna cesta D-8 Kovačka D-2
Dubravkina G-2 Kralja Tomislava H-2
Dunavska G-2/3 Kunićeva C-2
Džamija C-3 Kunska I-1
Đorđićeva B-2 L. Matačića H-1
Đura Baljevića D-4 L. Rogovskog G/H-2
Đura Basaričeka I-1 Lapad G-3
E. Kumičića H-2 Lapadska obala H-2
F. Kolumbića H-2 Lazareti L-2
F. Prešerna I-2 Lazarina L-2
F. Supila L-2
Ferićeva B-3
Flore Jakšić G-2
G. Rajčevića I-2/3
Garište B-2
Getaldićeva B-2

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facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2019 63


City Map
Liechtensteinov put H/I-3 Metohijska I-1 Od Batale H-2 Od Tabakarije K-3
Lokrum L-3 Miha Pracata C-2 Od borova H-2 Oraška G-2
Lokrumska K-2 Minčeta B/C-1 Od čempresa J-2 P. Budmani K-2
Lopudska H-1 Mljetska H/I-1 Od Danača J-3 P. Čingrije I-3
Lovrijenac K-3 Mokoška I-1 Od Domina B-3 P. Krešimira IV L-2
Lovrina L-2 Moluntska G-1 Od gaja I-1/2, J-2 P. Preradovića H-2
Lučarica D-3 Montovjerna I-2 Od Gale I/J-2 Padre Perice I-1
Luka Dubrovnik H-1 Mosorska G-2 Od Greba Žudioskih K-2 Palmotićeva C-2
Luke Sorkočevića G-2 Most Dubrovnik G-1 Od Gradca J-3 Paska Baburice H-2
Ljubuška H-1 Mrtvo zvono B-4 Od Hladnice H-3 Pećarica C-3
M. Blažića K-3 N. Ljubičića I-2 Od Kaštela B-4 Peline C-1
M. Budaka K-2 N. Nodila J-2 Od Kolorine K-3 Pelješka K-2
M. Dizdara I-1 Na Andriji B-3 Od Margarite C-4 Pera Bakića J-2
M. Gjaje J-2 Na Mihajlu H-2 Od maslinate L-2 Petilovrijenci C-2
M. Gupca K-2 Na Ponti D-2 Od Montovjerne I-2 Petra Svačića G-2
M. Hamzića I-2 Nalješkovićeva C-2 Od Nuncijate H-1 Pile J/K-3
M. Jarnovića G-2 Napice L-2 Od polača C-2 Pionirska H-1
M. Mrnarevića I-2 Neumska H-1 Od puča C/B-3 Placa C/D-2
M. Vodopića G/H-2 Nikole Božidarevića B/C-3 Od pustijerne D-4 Placa – Stradun C-2
Mala Petka G-3 Nikole Gučetića C-3 Od Rupa B-3 Platska J-3
Mandaljenska G-3 Nikole Tesle H/I-2 Od Sigurate B-2 Ploče L-2
Marina Držića D-3 Nuncijata H-1 Od Srđa K-2 Plovani skalini C-1
Marka Marojice H-2 Obala S. Radića I-2 Od Sv. Mihajla H-2 Pobijana D-4
Marojice Kaboge C-3 Obodska K-2 Od škara I-1 Pobreška H-1
Masarykov put F/G-3 Obuljenska J-2 Od šorte B-3 Poljana Mrtvo zvono B-4

Taj Butcheraj Meat Boutique

Dubrovnik Sailing
Restaurant Aquarius

Restaurant Levanat

Merit Cas

64 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com


City Map
Poljana Marina Držića D-3 Solinska I-2 Sv.Dominika D-2 Vladimira Nazora J-2
Poljana Paska Miličevića B-2 Solitudo G-1 Sv. Josipa B-3 Vatroslava Lisinskog G-2
Poljana Ruđera Boškovića C-4 Sponza D-2 Sv.Nikole H-1 Velebitska G-2
Pomoraca H-1 Srebrenska J-2 Šetalište kralja Zvonimira G/H-2 Velika Petka G-3
Pomorski muzej E-4 Srednji kono K-2 Šetalište Nike i Meda Pucića F-2 Vetranićeva C-2
Porat E-3 Stayeva E-4 Šibenska G-2 Vicina K-2
Porporela E-3/4 Stonska G-2 Šipanska H-1 Viška I-2
Posat E-2 Strossmayerova C-3 Šipčine I-2 Vlaha Paljetka H-1
Postranjska I-2 Stulina D-4 Široka C-2 Vukovarska I-2
Pred Dvorom D-3 Stradun B-2 Tivatska J-2 Za kapelicom K-2
Prelazna B-3 Sunčana L-2 Tmušasta C-3 Za Kamenom E-4
Pridvorska J-2 Sustjepanska I-2 Topolska I-2 Za Rokom B-3
Prijeko B-2/3, C-2 Sv. Barbara C-1 Trg oružja E-2 Za rupama B-3
Primorska G-2 Sv. Đurđa A-2, K-3 Trnovička I-2 Zadarska G-2
Privežna J-2 Sv. Ivan E-3 Trpanjska G-1 Zagrebačka J/K-2
Puljizeva B-3 Sv. Jakov D-1 Trstenska G-2 Zamanjina C-2
Put od Bosanke L-2 Sv. Križa H-1 U pilama K-3 Zatonska G-2
Restićeva D-4 Sv. Lucija C-1 Udarnička I-2 Zlatarićeva B-2
Revelin E-1 Sv. Luka E-2 Uvala Gruž H-1 Zlatarska D-2
Riječka G-1 Sv. Petar B-4 Uvala Sumartin F-3 Zrinsko-Frankopanska K-2/3
Ribarnica D-2 Sv. Spasitelj E-4 Uz Giman H-2 Zvijezdićeva B-3/4
Roka Mišetića H-3 Sv. Stjepan D-4 Uz Glavicu H-2 Željezničarska H-1
S.S. Kranjčevića I-2 Sv. Šimuna B-4 Uz Jezuite C-3/4 Žudioska D-2
Savska G-3 Sv. Vid C-1 Uz mline K-2 Žuljanska I-2
Sinjska I-2 Sv. Vlaha D-3 Uz posat B-1 Župska L-2
Slanska G-2 Sv. Marije B-3 Uz tabor K-2

Banje Beach Restaurant

sino

facebook.com/DubrovnikInYourPocket Summer 2019 65


Gusta Me

66 Dubrovnik In Your Pocket


City Centre Map

Dubravka

Exit Rock Café

Gaffe Pub

Mea Culpa
Taj Mahal

Mirage

Salvatore

dubrovnik.inyourpocket.com
Dubrovnik
Card Special tourist discount card
Available at all Tourist Information Offices,
Cultural Institutions, Hotels & Travel Agencies

Includes free entrance


to cultural institutions and
Download the Dubrovnik
public transport rides
Card brochure here
No charge for children up to 7 y.o.

Includes free entrance to City Walls, Maritime


Museum, Cultural-historical Museum in Rector’s Palace,
Natural History Museum Dubrovnik, Home of Marin Držić,
Art Gallery Dubrovnik, Ethnographic Museum Rupe,
Dulčić-Masle-Pulitika Gallery...
and discounts in restaurants, rent-a-car, souvenir shops...

www.dubrovnikcard.com