Odes A

Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
ODESA
July - September 2009
Odesa welcomes you!

A word from the Mayor
Exploring South Palmira
Odesa In Your Pockets second edition
2 www.inyourpocket.com
In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks. The New York Times
Contents
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Contents
Odesa welcomes you!
A word from the Mayor 5 6 9 10 14
The Basics
Arriving, Money and more
Culture & Events

What Odesa has to offer
Odesa Funicular. A free ride down
Where to stay
Black Sea Jewel Hotels
Trust In Your Pocket

Some have called it the scandal that rocked an industry, others have merely said that it was only a matter of time. Whatever it was labelled the revelations of a Lonely Planet author in April that he had never visited Columbia, - despite writing Lonely Planets guide to the country sent shockwaves through the travel publishing industry, exposing an underbelly of cheating, plagiarism, poor rates of pay and outrageously bad management. We at In Your Pocket remained smug throughout. As we employ only locally based authors who are aware of our starvation-inducing salaries from the word go, we do not have to worry about authors not going to the places they write about. Whats more, they are backed up by a local team of researchers who check and double check every detail in every guide every issue. So the information you get from us is first hand and independently verified. Thats why The Times named In Your Pocket as one of ten guide book publishers you really can trust and rely on.
Dining & Nightlife

Where to eat and what to try
What to see
Essential Odesa Museums
26 28 30 31 33 34
Getting around
Mail & Phones Planes, trains & car rental
Shopping
Where to go shopping in Odesa
Directory
Business, Lifestyle, Health & Sports
Maps & Index

City centre map Country map Street register/Index 36 38 39
Sea port
odesa.inyourpocket.com
ForeWord
Odesa is Ukraines most charming city. Anyone who argues otherwise has never been to Odesa, has never strolled its captivating streets nor broken bread with its jovial citizens. As a tribute to its appeal, eight cities in the US, two in Canada and one in Brazil were named Odessa. Theres also Lake Odesa and even Odesa the planet somewhere out there in the cosmos. However, none of these tributes shine as vibrantly as Odesa, Ukraine: The Pearl of the Black Sea. Throughout its history Odesa has lured travellers, artists, poets, entrepreneurs and radical dissidents. The city was founded in 1794 by Catherine the Great, who realized that a port on the Black Sea was essential for the expansion of the Russian Empire It was not erected on empty ground, however. Archeological findings have revealed the existence of an ancient Greek settlement. The Kievan Rus, the Golden Horde, Lithuanians, Ottomans, Tatars and Poles also made use of Odesas ideal location. The area ultimately fell into Russian hands during the Russo-Turkish War (1787-1791), and was later annexed under the Treaty of Jassy in 1792. Unlike many of its contemporary Russian cities, the construction of Odesa was well planned. Duc de Richelieu, a French dissident who served in the Russian Army and later became one of the citys first governors, is credited as the citys visionary designer. The city boomed throughout the 19th Century, and attracted an incredibly diverse population. Russians, Ukrainians, Jews, Romanians, Greeks, Bulgarians, Albanians, Armenians, Italians, Frenchmen and Germans all added their own unique vision to the citys unparalleled character. By the beginning of the 20th Century, Odesa had become the third most important city in the Russian Empire behind St. Petersburg and Moscow. It continued to thrive during Soviet industrial expansion, and by the mid 1950s had become one of the worlds richest grain harbours. Despite the incursion of industry, Odesa has remained an invaluable cultural centre and a place of inexplicable appeal. Ukraine has been given a unique opportunity to transform and ascend to a new level of development. On April 17, 2007 Ukraine and Poland were awarded the chance to co-host the Euro 2012 football competition. As one of the countrys gateway cities, Odesa will definitely benefit from the expected surge in interest. We are proud to offer this guide designed to highlight the very best Odesa has to offer. You may view additional content and leave comments at www.inyourpocket.com.
ForeWord
Europe In Your Pocket Cover story
This sculpture is located near the Archaeological Museum, and is a replica of an ancient Greek composition known as Laocon Group. It depicts the Trojan priest Laocon and his sons engaged in an epic struggle with Poseidons snakes. The original was the work of three sculptors from the island of Rhodes: Agesander, Athenodoros and Polydorus. Discovered in Rome in 1506, it is currently on display at the Vatican. The replica was sculpted out of Carrara marble in the 19th Century.
Odesa welcomes you!

Odesa (Odessa), the Pearl of the Black Sea, is talked about as if it were alive. M a d a m e O d e s a has her own face, character and temperament; moreover, a southern temperament, which means h u m o u r, c h a r m , openness, and communicability. Odesa has always demonstrated the qualities of a cheerful beauty. She is like an attractive lady with a special appeal, not afraid to conceal her age and experiences. She is eager to share anecdotes involving Odesians of all ethnicities and backgrounds, from Babel, Ilf & Petrov, to David Copperfield and Sylvester Stallone. With streets featured in classic literature, modern beach resorts, grand theatres, museums, shopping centres and night clubs, its easy to become a part of Odesas unique atmosphere. The citys side streets and yards, parks and boulevards invite you for more captivating promenades. Odesa can be your trade partner, feast with you and welcome you as a cherished guest. Madame Odesa is not a light-headed flirt; she has facets to suit all tastes, interests and passions. She loves tourists and welcomes them with a holiday they will not soon forget. This southern pearl brings warmth, sun, beaches and fruit. She feeds her dear guests well and entertains them imaginatively morning, noon and night. The city celebrates its birthday on September 2nd, and the best gift for Madame Odesa is well-rested travellers that have had their hearts won by this grand, reckless, attractive seaside beauty. Odesa is love for life at first sight. 10 reasons to visit Odesa is a feature available at odesa.inyourpocket.com. We invite you to visit this intriguing and charming city, and make a list of your own top ten reasons to visit! Eduard Gurvits, Mayor of Odesa
Press Box
Most of the traditional guidebook companies now have decent websites, with plenty of advice and information either freely available or downloadable for a fee, but inyourpocket.com is also well worth a browse. Concentrating on both wellknown and more offbeat European destinations, its free downloadable city and country guides are compiled by locals and regularly updated. The Independent In Your Pocket guides are each guide is written by an English language writer. All information is also available on the publishers website. Sueddeutsche Zeitung Before heading off to Europe, check the In Your Pocket guides at www.inyourpocket. com. The Daily Telegraph
Our team in Slovenia have been most active of lates, this spring preparing now fewer than three brand new In Your Pockets, to Bled, Maribor and Portoroz. The same team is also responsible for the buzz of activity around Banja Luka and Sarajevo in Bosnia, where In Your Pockets are in the final stages of research and development. Not content with the two countries they have already well and truly Pocketed, they have now turned west and have their eyes set firmly on Venice. In nearby Croatia new guides to all your favourite resorts are now available, including Dubrovnik, Rijeka, Split and Zadar, while seasonal, annual guides are also now out in Parnu, Estonia, and Klaipeda and Kaunas in Lithuania.
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright Neolitas-KIS 2003-2009. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced in any form, except brief extracts for the purpose of review, without written permission from the publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from UAB In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius, Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76.
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Publisher Neolitas-KIS Ltd. Nyzhnioyurkivska 3, Suite 25 Kyiv 04080, Ukraine tel. +380 44 467 78 20 fax +380 44 467 78 30 kyiv@inyourpocket.com Registration No. KB 14927 - 3899P Neolitas-KIS Company Office & Accounts Liagushka Creative Bureau tel. +380 482 32 05 97 odesa@inyourpocket.com Printed by Express-Polygraph, Kyiv Published 4 times per year
Editorial Editor Brigham Marriott Researchers Natasha Martisova Helen Zbarovskaya Layout & Design KIS Ltd. Photos Odesa In Your Pocket Cover photo: Alexander Kaminsky Sales & Circulation General Manager Alla Zhylina, alla@kis.kiev.ua Kyiv Managers Ludmila Mednikova, mila@kis.kiev.ua Yuriy Ivaschenko, ra@kis.kiev.ua Lviv Representative Yuriy Sokyrka, lviv@inyourpocket.com Odesa Representative Iryna Baklanova, odesa@inyourpocket.com Maps DNVP Kartographia, 2009
Editors note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent from paid-for advertising. Sponsored listings are clearly marked as such. We welcome all readers comments and suggestions. We have made every effort to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of going to press and assume no responsibility for changes and errors.
Odesa In Your Pocket
arriVing
By bus
The Central Bus Station is located at Kolontayivskoi vul. 58. The station is currently undergoing repairs scheduled to be completedwell, no one knows for sure, but not soon. Despite the mess, it continues to function and the bus you need will most likely arrive to or depart from the central station. Bus schedules, ticketing booths () and an information bureau are available. All information is in Russian only, but dont be afraid to express yourself in English. Odesians, especially those who speak English, enjoy coming to the aid of disoriented travellers. For information on existing routes and routing status visit the bus systems website www.bus .com.ua (in Russian only). You can also order tickets to routes designated with a red tick. If you choose to order online, dont forget to specify desired destination.
BasiCs
By sea
If youre arriving or wish to depart by sea youll inevitably end up at Odesas sea port station. Its possible to book passage to a number of destinations including Constantia, Varna, Istanbul and Crimea from the ticket office on the ground floor (ticketing agents speak English). There are limited routes to Crimea that allow for the transportation of a motor vehicle. An ATM, currency exchange, caf, telephones, Internet service including Wi-Fi and an information desk are also located on the ground floor. Customs is in the basement, but it will probably find you before you find it.
Basic data
Odesa
Population: 1 010 000 Ethnic composition: Ukrainian 62,2%, Russian 26,8%, Bulgarian 3%, Moldovian 2%, other 6%.
Ukraine
Population: 46 221 981 Ethnic composition: Ukrainian 77.8% Russian 17.3% Belarusian 0.6% Moldovan 0.5% Crimean Tatar 0.5% Bulgarian 0.4% Hungarian 0.3% Romanian 0.3% Polish 0.3% Jewish 0.2% other 1.8% Territory: 603,700km2 (the second largest in Europe, slightly smaller than Texas), mostly consisting of fertile steppes (plains) and plateaus. The only mountain chains are the Carpathians in the west and the Crimean Mountains in the extreme south. Borders: Belarus 891km, coastline (Black and Azov Seas) 2,782km, Hungary 103km, Moldova 939km, Poland 526km, Romania (south) 169km, Romania (west) 362km, Russia 1,576km, Slovakia 97km Rivers: Dnipro (1,204km), Dnister, Donets, Bug, Danube Highest point: Mount Hoverla 2,061m Local time: All of Ukraine is in the Eastern European Time zone (GMT +2), along with its neighbouring countries Belarus, Romania and Turkey. Thus, when it is 12:00 in Odesa, it is 13:00 in Moscow, 11:00 in Paris and Warsaw, 10:00 in London and 05:00 in New York.
By train
Odesas rail station is the end of the line. Fortunately for you, youre already in centre. A taxi to any centre location shouldnt cost more than 20Hr, but as you are a foreigner you face an uphill battle getting a just fare. If you walk a short distance from the train station (a prime location valued higher by cabbies) and flag down a car youre sure to get better treatment. Minibuses, buses and trams headed to centre and other points depart from the train station and adjacent bazaar. Keep in mind that youre just a short walk from numerous hotels, restaurants, shops and cafs. Passage
By car
When entering the country by car, foreigners are required to sign a document at the border swearing that they will bring the car out of the country before a certain date. Foreign cars are allowed on Ukrainian soil for a maximum of two months. This document should be carried along with your drivers license and your cars registration papers at all times. Automobile insurance is obligatory in Ukraine. It may be possible to buy green card insurance valid for Ukraine in your home country to avoid problems - if not you must purchase it from the Ukrainian company at the border. The latter might cost less than the former, however if you dont speak Ukrainian or Russian it is easy to get deceived by border officials and buy something which is totally useless. The minimum term of insurance is two weeks, with prices depending on the size of the engine.
Odesa vs. Odessa

Though Ukrainian and Russian are similar, there are notable differences including the spelling of many names. This is the case with Odesa (Ukrainian) and Odessa (Russian). Being that Russian is the language spoken by the overwhelming majority of Odesians, the Russian version is more common and useful, i.e. if youre searching the Internet, adding the extra s with definitely result in more hits.
Public transport
Th es e are favoure d by schoolchildren, the working class and babushkas and dedushkas. They wont get you anywhere in a hurry, but they do provide an intriguing look into everyday Ukrainian life. Tickets cost 1Hr and can be purchased from the conductor. You should immediately validate your ticket using one of the many punching gadgets around you. If not, you risk being intimidated into paying a fine by roaming inspectors. All tickets are good for one journey. Monthly travel passes are only available at final stops. Odesas tram system operates 19 routes making it one of the largest in Ukraine. However, if you need to reach centre, tram routes are nonexistent from Preobrazhenska vul. to the shore so youll need to hop on a bus, trolleybus or minibus. The trams main function is to connect the edge of centre with outlaying districts. Eleven trolleybus routes and 90 bus routes fill in the gaps allowing passengers to reach just about any locale in the city.
Trams, Trolleybuses and Buses
Alcohol
Ukrainian beer (pyvo) is quite tasty and extremely cheap to boot. Tipsiness may set in early, though, as its alcohol content is higher than Western brands. Those preferring foreign brands can find their favourites at finer shops and establishments. Ukraine also produces a wide selection of vodka, which flows freely at many parties and gatherings. Beware if offered homemade vodka (samohon). While good samohon can be better than some bootleg labels in shops, the overall odds are against you and your stomach. Whether its Ukrainian vodka or moonshine, be ready to offer a toast at some point. A modest cheers (budmo) will do for a foreigner.
By plane
Odesa International Airport is located approximately 10 km from centre. For domestic arrivals, the shuttle bus picks you up from the plane and dumps you by a steel gate next to the main terminal where a gauntlet of underhanded taxi drivers awaits. For international arrivals and departures and domestic departures proceed to the main terminal. There are two currency exchange booths, an ATM, airline representatives, a caf and an information booth (deserted both times we were there) in the terminals main hall. Toilets are located in the basement. Customs staff and many of the taxi drivers speak English. A taxi to centre is unreasonably expensive; even experienced hagglers can expect to pay a minimum of 100Hr. Car rental might be a better option and is available in the main hall. Your cheapest option is bus or minibus. Fares to centre are less than 2Hr. As you exit the main terminal, look to the right. The bus stop is across the parking lot. Two buses and a couple of minibuses depart at regular intervals. Bus 129 goes to the rail station, and 101 stops at Hretska pl. Minibus 113 heads to Paustovskoho vul. and 117 to Pastera vul. Also to the right, as you exit the main terminal is a VIP lounge. The airport is small and unassuming, but if you happen to get confused or lost dont hesitate to ask airport staff or one of the locals for assistance. Odesians have a tradition of service and are more open and jolly than citizens of other major ex-Soviet cities.
Disabled travellers
Odesa is not what you would call a disabled-friendly city. High curb drops and steep steps are the rule. Odesa Holovna train station does have ramps to the platforms, special ticketing windows, toilets and telephones, but the public transport system lacks even a hint of accessibility. The wheelchair symbol used in this guide means that the establishment in question specifically caters to disabled guests.
Borders
Ukraine is bordered by Belarus, Hungary, Moldova, Poland, Romania, Russia and Slovakia. Buses stop for about an hour at borders; westbound trains for more than two, because Ukrainian wheels dont fit European tracks and thus have to be switched! You should expect close inspection of your documents and belongings at border crossings. EU and American travellers need a visa to enter Belarus, Moldova and Russia and cant be obtained at the border, so make sure you contact their embassies in Odesa (see Directory/Foreign representatives).
Electricity
Ukraine supplies its residents and visitors alike with electrical current of 220 volts AC, 50Hz. All sockets require two round pins, but not always of the same size. Many thinner Russian sockets are being replaced by their European cousins. Those with Russian sockets can buy a cheap adapter for their European appliances. Adapters for more foreign electrical societies are not easy to find in Odesa, so bring your own.
Microbuses and minivans
Temperature, C
All forms of transit make scheduled stops except for microbuses and minivans. These privately-owned marshrutkas () or route taxis can stop anywhere along their specified route. Just flag it down as you would a taxi, then tell the driver where to let you out when youve had enough. Route information (in Russian only) is posted on the front and back windows. Dont forget to pay as you exit. Fares range from 1.75 to 2.50Hr.
Climate
30 20 10 0 100
National holidays
75
Funicular
www.inyourpocket.com
Odesas funicular runs alongside the famous Potomkinski skhody (stairs). Climbing aboard not only saves your lungs and calves the torture of hiking the steep steps, it offers a unique and relaxing panoramic view of the seaport and bay. Rides are free of charge.
50 25 Jan Feb Mar Apr May Jun Jul Aug Sep Oct Nov Dec 0
-10 -20
January 1 January 7 March 8 April 19 April 20 May 1-2 May 9 June 15 June 28 August 24
New Year Orthodox Christmas Womens Day Easter Sunday Easter Monday A day off for the workers Victory Day Trinity Constitution Day Independence Day
Rainfall, mm
BasiCs
Street smarts
Street Square Avenue Boulevard Bridge Embankment Highway Lane Descent (.) (.) (.) (.) (.) (.) (VU-lytsia) (PLO-scha) (pro-SPEKT) (bul-VAR) (mist) (NA-berezhna) (sho-SE) (pro-VU-lok) (uz-VIZ)
CULtUre & eVents

Roads
Carry your license and registration at all times to fully enjoy the Ukrainian driving experience. The official speed limits are 60 km/h in cities, 90 on secondary roads and 130 on highways. A zero tolerance drink driving policy applies in Ukraine.
Art galleries
Gapchinska Gallery F-2, Katerynynska pl. 6, apt.7, tel. 731 54 40. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sun.
Greek Culture Foundation F-3, Chervonyi prov. 20,

tel. 35 71 36/724 20 69, www. hfcodessa.org.
Safety
They say that Ukrainians can spot a foreigner from a kilometre away. This fact alone will not automatically make you the target of crime. Odesa is, in fact, a rather safe place. As in most cities, flashing large amounts of cash can cause trouble. Wallets are known to disappear in public transport crowds, so guard your pockets at all times. Being very drunk and/or loud on the street is always a good way to attract unwanted attention, especially from the police. By the way, its a good idea for foreigners to carry at least a copy of their passport and visa with them at all times.
Kontrabas Art-Caf Balkivska 31, tel. 777 05 40, www,kontrabas.od.ua. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00.
Closed Mon. Launch time 14:00 - 15:00.
Hillel Jewish Culture Centre E-1, Pastera 19, tel. 723 84 64, www.hillel.org.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Odesa Jewish Community G-4, Osypova 21, tel. 728 07 70. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
Maritime Art Gallery G-1, Prymorska 6, Sea Port, tel. 729 33 09, www.morskaya.com. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00.
Theatres
Musical Drama Theatre E-1, Pastera 15, tel. 23
55 66.
NT-Art I-4, Lidersovskyi bulv. 5, office 166, tel. 785 59 34. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00. Pobeda Art-Caf F-3, Hretska 25, tel. 728 78 38. QOpen 09:00 - 12:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Salieri Art Caf F-2, Lanzheronivska 14, tel. 725 00 00. QOpen 08:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. Triton E-2, Dvorianska 8, tel. 731 26 62/731 26 82. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. White Moon H-3, Kanatna 9, tel. 715 51 26. QOpen
09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
Odesa Music Comedy Theatre H-6, Panteleimonivska

3, tel. 725 09 24/722 01 62, www.operetta.odessa.net. Q Tickets 15-50Hr.
Language
The countrys official language is Ukrainian. pendence in 1991, it has become much more widespread. Still, Russian is heavily used in Eastern Ukraine, and only in western regions truly predominant. Since indepopular and Crimea and is Ukrainian
Odesa Russian Drama Theatre F-3, Hretska 48, tel. 722 45 04. Q Tickets 10 - 70Hr.
Smoking
Youre never too far away from a lit cigarette in Ukraine, and in some bars and clubs the term second-hand smoke just doesnt seem to matter. Smokers enjoy a ridiculously cheap selection of cigarettes hawked by one of the many babushkas and corner kiosks that are located throughout the city. Just recently Ukraine outlawed smoking in most public places and the workplace, except in specially designated areas. It is the responsibility of each company to provide a designated area for all smoking patrons or personnel. These special places can not exceed 50% of the total allotted area of the business. Since this law is relatively new in Ukraine, not every business has begun to enforce it.
In the spotlight
Floors
Ukrainians consider the floor on the ground to be the first floor and so one.
Money
The national currency is the hryvnia (Hr), which replaced the transitional karbovanets on September 2, 1996. Dont be confused if your amount is given in roubles. You havent been transported to Russia or taken back in time to the USSR - some people just have trouble letting go of the past! Paper bills carry denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 50, 100, 200 and 500 hryvnias. Another word to the wise: two versions exist of the 1, 2, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100 and 200 hryvnia bills, and both are accepted everywhere. There are 100 kopecks in a hryvnia, with 1, 2, 5, 10, 25, 50 kopeck and 1Hr coins. Youll have no problem finding currency exchange points, but rates are better from central street kiosks. If its travellers checks you need to cash, look for a big respectable-looking bank. You can find a number of ATMs around Odesa and many hotels and restaurants now take Visa and MasterCard - American Express is not very popular. There have been scattered reports of credit card fraud in upscale restaurants, though, so you may want to think twice before charging it.
Yatlo Gallery E-3, Nizhynska 50, tel. 37 27 44, www. yatlo.com. QOpen 14:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
Cinemas
Cinema City G-7, Semafornyi prov. 4, tel. 780 03 70,
www.cinemacity.od.ua. Located in the Seredniofontanskyi Trade Centre. Q Tickets 18-50Hr.
Toilets
Public restrooms are a sore, dirty and not very aromatic subject in Odesa. They are also in short supply, so make it a rule to go before you leave the hotel and after each caf/ restaurant/pub you visit. Youre sure to notice locals dancing frantically as they disappear into alleyways and behind trees, only to reappear fresh and liberated. This may be a tempting alternative, but beware: this behaviour inevitably leads to awkward conversations with local police who love to levy hefty fines on foreign tourists. Good luck.
Golden Duke Akademika Glushka 11G, tel. 746 32 33. Q Tickets 20-50Hr. Maski Olgiivska 23, tel. 23 63 16. Q Tickets 15
- 25Hr.
Rodina E-5, Mechnikova 104, tel. 37 17 17. Q Tickets 18 - 50Hr.
Opera and Ballet Theatre G-2, prov. Chaikovskoho
Concert halls
Muzkomedia (Musical Comedy Theatre) H-6,
Panteleimonivska 3, tel. 722 17 65.
Tipping
Odesa tipping culture is developing slowly. While no general rule exists yet, most restaurant-goers leave around 10% of their bill. But your waitstaff will expect more from you as a foreigner! Some places include a service charge of five to 10 per cent, so read the fine print or ask.
Philharmonic Bunina 15, tel. 725 15 36. Q Tickets

20 - 50Hr.
Sady Pobedy (Victory Gardens) pl. 10 Aprelia, tel.

785 85 85.
Market values
How do costs compare to back home? list of local prices to give you an idea. McDonalds Big Mac 14.00Hr Loaf of white bread 2.80Hr Snickers bar 4.00Hr Litre of vodka 25.00Hr Bottle of local beer (0.5 litre) 4.00Hr 20 Marlboros 8.00Hr Public transport ticket 1.50Hr Dry-cleaning and 25.00Hr pressing one mens shirt 1 litre of petrol (euro 3) 7.05Hr Heres a handy 1.31 0.26 0.37 2.34 0.37 0.75 0.14 2.34 $1.83 $0.37 $0.52 $3.27 $0.52 $1.05 $0.20 $3.27
Culture Centres
Closed Sat, Sun.
Visas
You can enter Ukraine visa-free and stay 90 days if youre a citizen of any EU country, Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Canada, USA and Japan. Everyone else still needs a visa from a Ukrainian embassy or consulate abroad before travelling. Visas at foreign embassies can usually be processed in one day, with prices varying depending on the type and length of visa requested. Note that many Ukrainian embassies only handle visa cases on certain days of the week, so call ahead. Most foreigners dont bother with getting work permits, however such negligence can bring about fines. To avoid such entanglements contact Odesa Employment Centre (vul. Generala Perova 22V, tel. 712 10 20) and get all the proper documents signed.
Alliance Franaise E-3, Soborna pl. 1, office 63, tel. 786 06 57, www.odessa-ua.org. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Arabian Culture Centre F-5, Rishelievska 49, tel. 37 91 60/777 65 74, www.kivan.com. QOpen 11:00
- 15:30. Closed Fri.
1, tel. 780 15 09/722 22 30, www.opera-ballet. tm.odessa.ua. One of the best theatres in Eastern Europe, Opera and Ballet Theatre was built in 1809 and quickly established itself as the centre of Odesas cultural scene. When it burnt to the ground in 1873, local patrons were devastated. The theatre was rebuilt in 1887 by master architects Ferdinand Fellner and Hermann Helmer. These two brilliant designers solidified their reputations with the construction of theatres in Vienna, Budapest, Dresden and Zagreb. The richness of this venues history is stirring. As you take your seat, imagine Tchaikovsky and Rachmaninoff tapping their batons on the conductors stand. Can you see Caruso, Chaliapin, Sobinov and Salomea Kruszelnicki approaching the spotlight ready to flex their vocals? Is that Anna Pavlova and Isadora Duncan spinning pirouettes up against the backdrop? If the curtain could talk it would tell amazing stories of nearly 200 years of astonishing performances. Q Tickets 25 - 100Hr.
Pale-Royal G-2,
Bavarian House F-4, Uspenska 60, office 2, tel. 777 06 96/715 01 20, www.bayernhaus.com.ua. QOpen
09:00 - 17:00.
0.66 $0.92
British Council Fontanska doroha 33, office 107, tel. 718 81 19/718 81 39, www.britishcouncil.org. QOpen
14:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Fri, Sat, Sun. 9, tel. 35 71 36.
Official exchange rates (as of July 8): 1 10.69Hr US$1 7.63Hr
Bulgarian Culture Centre F-3, Vitse-Admirala Zhukova odesa.inyourpocket.com
prov. Chaikovskoho. A charmin g cour t yard in fron t of Th e Opera Theatre, during imperial times i t was reser ved for the select few. It has now been restored and is open to all - poor-whitetrash included.
10
Where to staY
Odesa has been a popular business and tourist destination for more that 200 years. The interest in this important region has left an indelible mark in the form of plenty of accommodation. From ultra-ritzy to run-down Soviet relics, Odesas hotel infrastructure can easily accommodate a wide range of clientele including convention goers, discriminating business travellers, sun-seeking families and even budget backpackers. Rooms become harder to find during the summer peak. Our obvious recommendation: book ahead and avoid the hassle. Tired of hotels? A number of private companies offer newly renovated flats, which can be rented on a nightly basis and are considerably cheaper than most hotel rooms. The advantages of privacy, a kitchen and more space in general are definite plusses. Prices include breakfast and VAT (20%), unless otherwise stated.
Where to staY
Symbol key
P Air conditioning O Casino T Child friendly R Internet F Fitness centre K Restaurant D Sauna 6 Animal friendly A Credit cards accepted H Conference facilities U Facilities for the disabled L Guarded parking G Non-smoking rooms M Nearest metro station C Swimming pool W Wi-Fi internet access
11
Cream of the Crop

Arkadia Plaza Posmitnoho 1, tel. 30 71 00/30 71 01,
fax 30 71 58, arkadia-plaza@com.od.ua, www.arkadiaplaza.od.ua/english. Arkadia is officially a four star hotel. As we explored the luxurious rooms and became familiar with the wealth of available services we wondered what had happened to the fifth star. Did it get devoured, like a remote control, in the cushions of one of the rooms plush sofas? The 24 lux-class rooms and four spacious suites are stunning, but the services are really what set this place apart. Where else can you order room service 24/7, play tennis, dine on fine French cuisine, disco and gamble all under one roof? Other services include swimming-pool, sunbathing terrace, sauna, Jacuzzi, massage room, parking, bar/lounge, etc. Did we mention that the hotel is situated on a popular windsurfing beach? Q24 rooms (10 standard 1470Hr, 8 superior 1749Hr, 2 junior suite 3102Hr, 3 suite 4560Hr, 1 apartment 5958Hr, extra bed 375Hr). POHARFLGKDCW hhhh
london-hotel.com.ua, www.london-hotel.com.ua. This British themed hotel is located next to a picturesque park, whose name has been changed so many times that no one seemed to know what to call it. The hotels name is unmistakable, though, and youll soon notice that theyve taken everything trendy from Brittan and stuffed it in through the front door and all the way up to the rafters. The porter is dressed like a beefeater, and whos serving-up ale at the pub? A kilted Scotsman, of course. This place has great security and each room comes with air conditioning, safe and fabulous park views. The internal non-chlorinated water purification system insures that tap water is drinkable in accordance with European standards - unique features such as this breath in high class. Q37 rooms (11 standards 1295Hr, 12 twins 1295Hr, 1 junior suite 1447Hr, 12 suites 2116Hr, 1 apartment 4498Hr, extra bed 200Hr). PHARLGKW hhhh
London E-4, Uspenska 95, tel./fax 784 08 98, info@
Londonska G-2, Prymorskyi bulv. 11, tel. 738 01
Continental G-3, Deribasivska 5, tel. 786 03 99, fax
786 05 50, office@continental-hotel.com.ua, www. hotel-continental-odessa.com. Originally constructed in the mid 19th Century, the hotel was completely reconstructed in 2005. Today it prides itself on being Odesas ideal venue for business and leisure. All rooms are luxuriously designed and incorporate all services expected of a four star hotel including satellite TV, Internet, safe, mini-bar, Italian furniture and air conditioning. Perhaps the most noteworthy feature is located on the first floor. Im referring to the lavish Voyage Restaurant, of course. One taste of the original, superb dishes and youll book a room just to be close to this culinary gem. Q32 rooms (6 economy 1210 - 1450Hr, 12 standard 1640 - 1920Hr, 10 junior suite 2384Hr, 3 suite 2890Hr, 1 apartment 4400Hr, extra bed 263Hr). PHARFLGKDCW hhhh
10/738 01 12, fax 738 01 11, hotel@londred.com, www.londred.com/en. Located opposite Pionerskyi Park overlooking the port, theyve taken a mid 19th Century hotel and dressed it up with lavishly remodelled rooms and halls complete with all the ambience and modern amenities the contemporary traveller has come to expect. Rooms are equipped with satellite TV, mini-bar, fabulous views, safe and air conditioning. Other highlights include complimentary airport transfer, wheelchair accessibility, free parking, high-tech conference rooms, a spacious banquet room, professional multilingual staff and a health club with swimming pool. The restaurant, bar and casino have gained a reputation all their own and attract party-goers and fortune seekers from far and wide. Q53 rooms (3 singles 624 - 780Hr, 5 doubles 807 - 963Hr, 5 suites 1872 - 2054Hr, 1 apartment 3536 - 3900Hr, 26 superior 806 - 1145Hr, 13 junior suite 1222 - 1639Hr, extra bed 260Hr). POARUFLG KDCW hhhh
Door smarts
A quick yet indispensable guide to those embarrassing moments in front of a foreign door. Pull Push Open Closed
Morskoy Kryshtalevyi prov. 1/1, tel. 33 90 90/33 90
1 =10.69Hr; US$1 = 7.63Hr (8 July 2009 official rates)

95, fax 33 90 96, hotel@morskoy.com, www.morskoy. com. Morskoy is located just steps away from Arcadia Beach and a 10 minute taxi ride from centre. There are countless attractions in the neighbourhood, and sun-seekers tend to stay, dine and party long into the night at one of Arcadias many restaurants and nightclubs. The hotel was built recently so rooms are fashionable and modern. All come equipped with safe, min-bar, air conditioning and satellite TV. The hotels Fish Time Restaurant is worth checking out even if youre not staying at the hotel. Q54 rooms (29 standard 1020 - 1776Hr, 12 superior 1122 - 1322Hr, 4 junior suite 1632Hr, 6 suite 2028Hr, 3 apartment 3672Hr). PHARFLG KDCW hhhh
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Where to staY
Mozart F-2, Lanzheronivska 13, tel. 37 77 77/37 69 Frapolli G-2, Deribasivska 13, tel./fax 35 68 01, tel. 35
00, fax 37 98 94, www.mozart-hotel.com. During his exile in Odesa, Aleksander Sergeyevich Pushkin was a regular at this hotels casino. Can you see him across the room? Hes perched attentively on a card table stool, one eye tracking his bet, the other scanning the corseted ladies for his next adulterous feast. With its elegant interior and location at the epicentre of Odesas art and culture scene, its understandable why this hotel so easily lured Pushkin. The casinos gone, but a variety of impressive amenities stand in its place and include a swimming pool, VIP lounge, bar, banquet halls and Mozarts own restaurant renown for its Ukrainian and European dishes and romantic views of the Opera and Ballet Theatre. The rooms definitely lack in space, but are luxurious and packed with goodies such as air conditioning, cable TV, Internet, mini-bar, etc. Q40 rooms (30 standards 1328 - 2117Hr, 2 family 1585 - 3179Hr, 2 junior suites 2191 - 3254Hr, 3 suites 2722 - 3785Hr, 3 apartments 3984Hr, extra bed 531Hr). PHARLGKDC hhhh 68 09, frapolli@mail.ru, www.odessapassage.com/frapoli. They must be doing something right - all 26 rooms were booked when we visited and they could only show us around the elegant lobby. The excellent location on Deribasivska vul. and the luxurious interior justify its popularity. Rooms come with air conditioning, safe, mini-bar, satellite TV and views ideal for people watching. A small meeting room equipped with modern goodies can be booked and accommodates up to 20. Other mentionables include breakfast buffet, bar, sauna, gym and round the clock service. Q27 rooms (1 apartment 1800Hr, 2 economy rooms 620 - 840Hr, 9 standards 880 - 100Hr, 9 superiors 1100 - 1320Hr, 5 junior suites 1320 - 1540Hr, 1 suite 1460 - 1680Hr, extra bed 220Hr). PTHAR6ULGKDW hhhh
Where to staY
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Chorne More (Black Sea) F-5, Rishelievska 59, tel.
Odesa G-1, Prymorska 6A, tel. 729 48 08, fax 729
46 23, hotel@odessa-hotel.com.ua, www.odessa-hotel. com.ua/en/. Located on Odesas central dock overlooking the bay, this magnificent hotel has it all and then some. The rooms are definitely up to snuff and come with satellite TV, a mini-bar, air-conditioning, a private safe, a telephone, secured Internet connection and stunning views of the bay. The multifunctional, high-tech conference hall that can accommodate up to 300 and the banquet hall with seating for 250 make this the best conference venue in the city. Odesa boasts two elegant restaurants. Panorama is located on the 19th floor and is famous for its spectacular sea view. Afraid of heights? The Black Pearl is situated closer to the ground and serves European and Ukrainian cuisine. Q158 rooms (5 business 658Hr, 55 standards 983 - 1154Hr, 72 superiors 1150 - 1321Hr, 15 junior suites 1636 - 1807Hr, 10 suites 2495Hr, 1 presidential suite 6480Hr). PHARFLGKC hhhh
30 09 04/30 09 05, fax 731 47 23, blacksea@bs-hotel. com.ua, www.bs-hotel.com.ua. This hotel caters to all tastes. The rooms are elegant, but have a welcome home feel. For those in need of relaxation, a sauna, solarium and massage parlour are just steps away. For those looking to burn a few calories, the hotel has a relatively impressive swimming pool and fitness centre. The restaurant serves up scrumptious European and Japanese cuisine (banquet room seating for up to 85 available), and a casino and concert hall are also at your disposal. Breakfast not included. Q216 rooms (22 singles 400Hr, 113 doubles 430 - 500Hr, 72 junior suites 465 - 670Hr, 9 suites 750 - 900Hr, extra bed 100Hr). POARLKDCW hhhh
connection. Most rooms have air-conditioning and some lux rooms come with balconies overlooking a sleepy courtyard. Economy class rooms have a shared bathroom. The complimentary light buffet breakfast is served in the quaint caf that features Ukrainian cuisine. There is very little information available in English, but the staff is more or less capable and, true to their Odesian roots, are friendly and always willing to help. The hotels conference hall accommodates up to 30. Q57 rooms (21 singles 450Hr, 18 doubles 550Hr, 3 junior suites 650 - 700Hr, 15 suites 700 - 750Hr, economy rooms 320Hr, extra bed 100Hr). PHARLGKDW 58 05/726 84 06, fax 726 86 89, admin@centralhotel. od.ua, www.centralhotel.od.ua. Is the glass half empty or is it half full? Is Tsentralnyi a great value or do you get what you pay for? You be the judge. The location is a definite plus, as is the English speaking front desk. Be nice to the Soviet-era key lady who patrols the halls - this may be the key to a satisfying stay. Corny jokes aside, the rooms have had some remodelling, the complimentary slippers are a nice touch and the communal toilet is clean. Thats right. If you opt for a cheaper room, youll have to share a toilet. The caf and bar are on the ground floor. Q51 rooms (4 singles 440 - 550Hr, 22 doubles 500 - 600Hr, 1 suite 920Hr, 15 economy rooms 200 - 360Hr, 9 junior suites 600 - 740Hr, extra bed 100Hr). PHARL hh
Driving in Odesa
The condition of most roads in Ukraine is basically wretched, especially after the winter thaw. Another problem is the decrepit traffic lights. They are not all that bright, and sometimes it is difficult to tell which light is actually lit and which just has the sun shining on it to make it appear lit. Road markings, especially the all-important centre line, often go missing. In this case you should do what the locals do and decide for yourself where the line is. Just make sure that other drivers understand your intentions. No right turn on a red light, unless you have a special green arrow next to the red light. Fines for moving violations have recently been increased. The hope is that this action will lead to a decrease in some of the idiotic behaviours that have led Ukraine to having one of the worlds worst road safety ratings. Drivers can now expect to pay from 51Hr for minor violations to as much as 3400Hr for major violations such as drunk driving (Ukraine has a zero-tolerance alcohol policy when it comes to being behind the wheel). New seat belt and helmet laws will be enforced. Fines for pedestrian violations have also increased. The days of being able to bribe your way out of punishment are coming to an end, maybe. Traffic patrol will soon be required to use video and photo surveillance for all traffic stops. With a mix of narrow streets and reckless Michael Schumacher wannabes, driving in Odesa can be a hairraising experience. The fact that the city is laid out on a grid makes finding your way around relatively simple. Parking in centre can be difficult, but with a little patience and a good eye youre likely to find a free spot. The area around Deribasivska and Hretska pl. works like Chinese finger-cuffs - easy to get in but tricky to get out - and is best avoided. As you enter and exit the city, watch out for the numerous speed traps! According to Ukrainian law, foreign drivers must carry an international driving licence in addition to the licence from their home country. International licences can be acquired in your country of origin. Foreign vehicles can stay in Ukraine for no more than two months. Extensions can be obtained via registration with the National Auto Inspector ().
Tsentralnyi (Central) E-3, Preobrazhenska 40, tel. 36
Palladium G-6, Italiiskyi bulv. 4, tel. 728 77 30, fax
Otrada I-6, Uiutna 11, tel./fax 33 06 98, contact@hotelotrada.com, www.hotel-otrada.com. Located in the ritziest part of town and just steps from the beach, Otrada is a touch of class in a sea of mediocrity. The stunning building was designed and constructed in the late 19th Century. The 26 rooms (ten standard, six luxe, three deluxe and seven suites) were elegantly remodelled in 2005. All rooms come with satellite TV, Internet access, mini-bar, safe, hair-dryer, robe and slippers. This ultra-stylish venue is equipped with wonderful security, room service, business centre services and free parking. Two of the citys most celebrated eateries, Casa dItalia and La Terrazza, offer-up fine European and Ukrainian cuisine. Otradas Beach Club is unrivalled in Odesa: relax in the pool or sauna and get pampered at the beauty centre. Q26 rooms (16 standards 1370 - 1890Hr, superiors 1970 - 2170Hr, 7 junior suites 2890 - 4440Hr, 2 suites 5570Hr, 1 apartment 7940Hr, extra bed 500Hr). PHAR6UFLGKDCW hhhhh
728 78 99, welcome@hotel-palladium.com.ua, www. hotel-palladium.com.ua. Located five minutes walk from the railway station, Palladium is a modern hotel with an ultra stylish interior. Rooms are equipped with cable TV, a climate control system, a telephone and a mini-bar. The courteous staff is at your service and the entertainment and relaxation amenities are contemporary and impressive. The hotel hosts a popular restaurant and night club. Other amenities include Turkish and Finish sauna, massage, Jacuzzi and Russian billiards. Q23 rooms (17 standards 785Hr, 2 junior suites 1030Hr, 3 suites 1450 - 1650Hr, 1 apartment 1950Hr). PHAR6LGKDC hhhh
Mid-range
Lermontovskiy I-5, Lermontovskyi prov. 2, tel. 717 78
77/717 78 79, lermonrovskiy@ukr.net, www.lermontovskiy.com.ua. The hotel is located next to Lermontovskyi Sanatorium - a tremendously popular destination for health rejuvenation and relaxation during Soviet times. The hotel really stands out against the rundown back drop that is the sanatorium. The area and hotel continue to attract a mostly Eastern European crowd and westerners may find familiar services lacking and the atmosphere somewhat tacky. However, the location - a short walk from the beach, Chornomorets Tennis Club, a yacht club and seaside restaurants - make this an intriguing possibility for summer visitors. All rooms come equipped with air conditioning and satellite TV. Youll have to book a premium if you desire a mini-bar, bathrobe or slippers. Services include a restaurant, caf, sauna, small conference room, travel services, parking and laundry. Q33 rooms (24 standards 470 - 550Hr, 9 superiors 650 - 750Hr). PHALGKDCW hhh 760 14 62, info@octyabrskaya.in.ua, www.oktyabrskaya.in.ua. This hotel is located ten minutes walk from Deribasivska in one direction and the train station in the other. Rooms are neatly remodelled to the local taste and come standard with refrigerator, satellite TV and Internet
Budget
Passage E-2, Preobrazhenska 34, tel. 728 55 00,
fax 728 55 02, passage@londred.com, www.passage. odessa.ua. Once a prestigious hotel, almost nothing has changed about this place since the Brezhnev years. The rooms amenities (i.e. the phone, facets and light fixtures) are working Soviet-era antiques. Though primitive, it has managed to keep some of its charm and offers an affordable alternative to the mega-price joints youll find on and around Deribasivska vul. The helpful staff speaks some English. A Georgian restaurant, bar and salon round-out the available services. Q136 rooms (23 economy rooms 140 - 190Hr, 69 standards 238 - 320Hr, 36 junior suites 369 - 520Hr, 4 suites 678Hr). PA6LK hh
Upmarket
Ayvazovsky G-3, Bunina 19, tel. 728 97 77, fax 728 11
34, info@ayvazovsky.com.ua, www.ayvazovsky.com.ua. Named in honour of the famous Crimean painter, Ayvasovsky sits on a hushed street a few doors down from the Opera and Ballet Theatre and Philharmonic. The design and comfort of the rooms and the level of service definitely warrants more than a three star rating, but rooms are relatively small and dont come with a balcony. International telephone connection, wirelesses Internet, min-bar, safe and air-conditioning are standard in all rooms. The accommodation rate includes a continental breakfast. Services available with additional charges include mini-bar, laundry services and car park. Q27 rooms (5 singles 720Hr, 11 doubles 940Hr, 2 suites 1300Hr, 4 junior suite 1140Hr, extra bed 350Hr, 5 Executive 1200Hr). PHAW hhh
Apartment Rental
Odessa Apartments E-2, Hretska pl., Afina Centre,
7th floor, Suite 745, tel. 8 067 708 55 01/8 067 484 52 36, info@odessaapts.com, www.odessaapts.com. Odessa Apartments offers a large variety of fully serviced apartments in the prime centre of Odesa. Apartments for every taste, budget and style both in the centre and near Arkadia beach. Free airport pick-up. Q studio rooms from $30, two rooms from $40, three rooms from $70, four & five-rooms from $120. PA
Octyabrskaya H-4, Kanatna 31, tel. 728 88 63, fax
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Odesa has always been a haven for gourmets (even during poor old Soviet times), but the boom in quality and diversity that has taken place over the past decade is unprecedented. The infusion of new cuisine into an already ethnically rich culinary tradition resulted in an impressive range of options including American, French, Jewish, Mexican, Greek, Italian, Spanish, Asian, Ukrainian, Middle-Eastern and more. In the historic centre, youre never more than a couple steps away from your next dining experience. Odesas proximately to the sea means culinary utopia for fish lovers. With so many establishments to choose from, we hope that our guide serves as the solution to what can be an overwhelming question: Whats for dinner?
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Symbol key
P Air conditioning T Child friendly V Home delivery G Non-smoking areas O Casino L Guarded parking B Terrace A Credit cards accepted S Take away U Facilities for the disabled I Fireplace 6 Animal friendly E Live music W Wi-Fi internet access
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Grand Caf F-2, Katerynynska 6, tel. 777 21 77. With a plethora of soups, salads, wraps, pizzas and grill items to choose from Grand is big, possibly even enormous. This is a good place for those struggling with (Russian language). All delectable menu items are accompanied by a real-life photo. Theres no confusion or surprises at Grand just an ostentatiously good dining experience. QOpen 09:00 24:00. . PAUBSW Chas Pik (Rush Hour) Henuezka 1, tel. 34 97 57,
www.chaspik.com.ua. If your car breaks down on the road from Arkadia Beach back to centre, this is a fine place to hold up and wait for the tow truck. They offer a substantial selection of hot and cold appetisers, soups and salads. The meat dishes, i.e. the grand veal and the flounder in a signature sauce, are a bit pricey, but arrive to the table in relatively large portions. The neighbourhood can be described as rundown industrial but the restaurant is a class above the surroundings and has the fastest Wi-Fi connection weve yet to encounter here in Odesa. No English menu available, but the servers are fluent enough to help you through the ordering process. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. . PAILEGBSW
5. One word: Kruovice 4. Mouth-watering reasonably-priced grill 3. American pool, snooker and Russian billiards on the second floor available 24/7 2. Sociable English-speaking staff 1. Odin brews its own exclusive delectable light, premium, dark and red beer This superb bar and grill can be somewhat tricky to find. Its best to head down Bunina vul., turn left on Polska vul. and its a couple doors down. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. PTAI LEGBSW
Vis--Vis F-2, Deribasivska 15, tel. 777 02 03. This
Asian
Cosmos G-5, Velyka Arnautska 43, tel. 34 38 46. With
a name like Cosmos we were expecting a Yuri Gagarin theme or maybe a restaurant set in a hallowed out de-commissioned Soyuz rocket (now that would be cool). Instead we found another sushi restaurant. Our disappointment quickly faded as we opened the menu and discovered a cosmic sushi selection, out-of-this world service and down-to-earth prices (raise your hand if youre tired of cheesy clichs). Another pleasant bonus is the clever flare that they add to this overdone culinary treat, i.e. sushi parfe, Russian roll, etc. QOpen 11:30 - 22:30. . PAGS
European
Boulevard E-2, Katerynynska pl. 1, tel. 777 03 39.
The combination of climbing Potomkins Stairs and the fresh sea breeze can really kick start the appetite. Could it be a conspiracy or is it just fortuitous that this exquisite European restaurant is located just steps away from the statue of Duc de Richelieu? Famous for its seafood, soups and its simple but romantic ambiance, Boulevards popularity is easy to justify. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. . PTAEGBSW
ultra classy joint is popular with the local jet set. The menu (in English) is a conglomeration of European and Japanese cuisine and features an excellent wine selection. The balcony seating with views of Deribasivska vul. is extremely popular in the summer months. After dinner, stay put and party in the night club. The gracious staff speaks some English. QOpen 10:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. . POALBSW
Oniks E-1, Sofiivska 23, tel. 34 46 40. Words like vogue

and luxurious spring to mind. With its plush satin interior, private curtained off dining areas, romantic lighting and rich menu Oniks is a nose ahead when it comes to class. Despite the ambiance, the prices are more or less reasonable. The impressive wine card, scrumptious French dishes and deserts and English speaking staff are just some of the highlights on offer. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PTAG 70. Straight from the In Your Pocket home office in Odesa, Ukraine, here are the top five reasons why Odin will have you coming back every week:
Brewery
Lustdorf Lustdorfska doroha 140B, tel. 777 96
77, www.lustdorf.com. This beer restaurant is popular for its relaxing atmosphere and traditional fresh German brew. The original European menu has garnered a following among locals and expats alike. Find a comfy niche in one of the three halls or on the terrace, and feast on mouthwatering items from the grill. The brewing process is on display, and theres also a store selling mugs and other paraphernalia. Concerts, live music and enthralling shows draw crowds on weekends. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 02:00. . PTALEBS
Corvin F-2, Lanzheronivska 17, tel. 35 70 37/35 88 00.

A whisky club, pub and restaurant, Corvin has all Irish bases covered. The pub is located on the second floor and offers a plethora of imports (Murphys, Leffe, Paulander, Newcastle, etc.) and all blends of whisky. Sitting at the bar and swapping stories with the bar tender are encouraged. The elegant restaurant on the second floor has a more exotic menu than its rowdier, rougher around the edges counterpart on the third floor. Both restaurants offer up fresh and authentic fare such as rack of lamb, pork steak and chips, Scottish fish pie, homemade sausages, etc. Corvins main attraction is its unbelievable whisky club. With more than 800 different whiskies on hand from all over the world, its impossible not to revel in this quiet niche - sip on something rare, toke a savoury cigar and enjoy. Q Open 11:00 - 24:00. . PAEGBS
Tokyo House G-3, Rishelievska 11, tel. 784 88 48.

Got the munchies? What better cure for your predicament than sushi? Tokyo House is open 24/7 throughout the summer season, and reverts to regular hours in the fall. They offer a 20% discount on all menu items from 02:00 - 16:00. If youre not in the mood for something raw, check out the scrumptious selection of hot dishes. English menu is available. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. . POALGBSW
Odin G-3, Polskyi Uzviz 12, tel. 777 09 89/777 74
Yakitoriya F-4, Rishelievska 27, tel. 36 47 80, www.
yakitoriya.od.ua. Known for its stunning and stylish interior, Yakitoria was actually featured in the Russian magazine entitled Best Interiors. Indeed, even the exterior dining area is stunning and stops many patrons from even entering the main dining hall. Not to be outdone, the itamae whips up some of the most flavourful and elegantly arranged sushi in town. QOpen 10:00 - 06:00. PTAGBS
Delovaya Kolbasa F-2, Katerynynska 8/10, tel. 726

96 26. Theres nothing more alluring than the aroma of sausages slowly basting in their own juices. Just hearing the word sausage makes most mouths water. This place has mastered the art of sausage stuffing - its all homemade. Dont forget the beer to wash it down and a fresh salad to help it on its way. The sociable owner and staff speak some English. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. PAGBS
Yokohama F-2, Deribasivska 26, tel. 35 66 00,
www.yokohama.net.ua. Specializing in Japanese with a little spicy Thai mixed in, Yokohamas prime location on Deribasivska vul. will keep you put long after youve demolished the satisfying grub. The cool atmosphere, superb service and comfy outdoor seating will have you coming back for all your sushi cravings. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . P6GBS
Flamant F-3, Zhukovskoho 31, tel. 785 20 73. Im
Bulgarian
4 Bolgarina (Four Bulgarians) F-4, Katerynynska
54/56, tel. 784 04 10. We found 4 Bolgarina to be a welcome detour from the mainstream. Everything bursts with unique flavour, especially the exciting traditional Bulgarian salads, cheeses and the Bulgarski sach (large fillets of chicken, veal or pork roasted with vegetables and served in a wine sauce). Each week the chef offers up a new dish of his own creation! Dont fret if you left your Bulgarian dictionary in Varna, the menu is in English and the accommodating, mostly English speaking staff will help you make the right selection. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. . PALGBS
ashamed to say that when I sit down at any restaurant I always flip to the back of the menu first and check-out the beer selection. Finally, after years of feeling like white-trash, Ive found a place that makes me feel first class. At Flamant the beer list is on the first page! Choose from 10 varieties of draught beer, and the food items are designed to go with the beverage and not the other way around. For example, the veal is a perfect compliment for the fresh Odesa Premium (brewed locally). Menu in English. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. . PTJAILGBSW
Price guide
The average price for a main course: more than 20 per person 15 - 20 per person 10 - 15 per person less than 10 per person
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Self-service
While the West may have its fast-food chains, we here in the East have something far better: self-service restaurants. These low budget marvels offer a wide variety of fresh, boiled, fried and baked dishes all laid out before the client ready to be mixed and matched. It may not be sophisticated, but it is cheap and cheerful and the foods surprisingly good.
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Georgian
Mimino H-4, Zhukovskoho 2, tel. 33 25 08/33 25 09.
This Georgian restaurant boasts a remarkable menu, which includes vegetarian dishes. Descending into the cellar seating, its easy to imaging life in a quaint Caucasian village. The relaxed atmosphere demands that one indulge and theres plenty to indulge in. The wine selection is enormous and the dishes are authentically luscious. After dinner, kick back in one of the plush sofas, suck on a hookah and enjoy the live music. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PTALEGBSW
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Pulcinella F-2, Lanzheronivska 17, tel. 777 30 10/777
30 11. Were still scratching our heads trying to figure out what the long nosed, masked, classic comedic hero Pulcinella has to do with pizza. His image does help in creating the light and cosy atmosphere that youll find at this Italian restorante. Youll also find some classics when it comes to pizza: American style and Pizza al Italia. Are you the adventurous type? Try the pizza with tuna fish. The inimitable Italian style grill, affordable family prices and fantastic location make this a must for Italian lovers. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. . PAIEGS
Puzata Khata F-2, Deribasivska 21. Albeit a low
Voyage G-3, Deribasivska 5, Continental Hotel,tel. 786

03 93, www.hotel-continental-odessa.com. Voyage is owned and operated by the luxurious Continental hotel and offers one of the most elegant dining experiences in Odesa. Fresh seafood items highlight a menu of unmatched European tradition and zest. Steaks and other meat dishes drip with flavour, but again the seafood on offer is not to be missed and includes a fabulous sea bass and dorado dish. Every Saturday, an enticing one day only fresh seafood selection is shipped in special from the Mediterranean. After dinner, smokers may revel in the unique flavour of a Fortuna cigar and this is the only place in town where you can sip on a Birra Moretti. The wine card is also impressive with fantastic French, Italian and Spanish vintages. All servers are professional, abide by western standards and are fluent in English. Breakfast starts at 07:00. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. . PTAULEGBSW
budget, family friendly, la carte eatery, the Puzata Khata located on the sixth floor of the Europa shopping centre offers one of the most exhilarating views of the historic city centre. All restaurants in this chain offer a satisfying selection of traditional Ukrainian dishes. The interiors are inventive and usually combine a 19th Century theme with a touch of local flare. Fill the hole for only a few bucks! QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. PAUGS
Greek
Papa Costa G-3, Hretska 17, tel. 738 48 48. This is
the best Greek in town. From the Greek salads to the live lobster and catch of the day to the homemade sausages and ice-cream, freshness is priority No. 1. Papa will have you caressing your belly in satisfaction and licking your chops for more. The private terrace is a classy touch. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. . PTA6UILEGBSW
Tequila House F-5, Mala Arnautska 69, tel. 33 93 22.
Zharu-Paru F-3, Hretska 45, tel. 726 75 33. If you
were ever traumatized by the high school lunchroom, youre likely to experience flash-backs as you enter ZharuParu. However, the convenient locations and value for hryvnia make this an essential stop for those strapped for cash or time. Traditional Ukrainian is available for your selection and the service comes with a hint of a smile. Also at G-4, Uspenska 28/30; E-1, Pastera 11. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. PAS
Indian
London E-4, Uspenska 95, London Hotel, tel. 784 53
78, www.london-hotel.com.ua. A much welcomed addition to Odesas culinary scene has landed at the London Hotel: wonderful spicy Indian cuisine! Luscious lamb, chicken and fish dishes fill a menu that also includes delicious vegetarian (a rarity in Ukraine). The art of seasoning is on display, as the kitchen masterfully wields curry, coriander, cardamom, red and green chilli, cinnamon, saffron, etc., etc. As with all facets of this elegant hotel, expect a hospitable atmosphere and impeccable service.QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PALGSW
Its a sociological fact that more surprise pregnancies can be linked to the consumption of tequila than any other booze on the market, and this cantina proudly serves 20 different brands (Sauza, Rio Grande, Sierra, etc.). Though Mexican cuisine is difficult to authenticate beyond the Mexican boarder, Tequila House comes close. The chimichangas are bursting, the fajitas are always sizzling and the appetizers are just about spicy enough to fool you. This is a fantastic venue for a small party and hungry kids. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PILGS
Mediterranean
Fiji H-4, Uspenska 2, tel. 794 77 99. Located on the edge
of Shevchenko Park, Fiji is a hit with locals and vacationers. The backdrop of greenery makes for a soothing outdoor dining experience. Live music (usually a one-man-keyboard-band) and dancing on the patio are the evenings attractions. In our experience, restaurants with unique locations and/or themes dont have to rely on excellent food or service to muster return business so we were pleasantly surprised when the food arrived decorative and delicious. They also offer one of the citys largest selections of grill items. In particular, the offering of grilled fish is mouth-wateringly impressive. Fiji is also adequately equipped to handle large groups and banquets. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. . PTLEBSW
Pizza
Marios Pizza F-2, Katerynynska 7, tel. 711 77 29.
Italian always fills the hole. This joint has a family friendly atmosphere and all the tasty Italian dishes youd expect from a place called Marios. The lasagna took forever, but was worth the wait. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. . PTAGBSW
Trium Tavern-Club I-5, Lidersovskyi bulv. 17/2, tel.
777 88 86. The word (trium) in English means the hold of a ship. To get the full effect of being in the hold 1.guzzle three to five tasty imported beers 2.stare straight ahead at the giant decorative holding casks, and 3.shake your head violently back and forth till the room begins to sway bow to stern. Captivating fish items are on the menu, as might be expected, but locals swear by the meat dishes that are all prepared in Triums signature style. Theres no English menu, and when we asked the server if he spoke English he said, Im like a Labrador Retriever I understand everything, but cant speak. Live music entertains seasick passengers Thursday-Saturday. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. . PAES
Intermational
Bagration G-3, Deribasivska 1, tel. 32 84 84. This is
the most obvious launching point for travellers looking to explore Deribasivska vul. Start by paying homage at the statue of adored city founder Jose de Ribas, and then hop across the street for a quiet lunch or dinner at Bagration. This French bistro offers wonderful lunch specials, a loaded dinner men, chic interior, live music and tranquil outdoor seating during the summer season. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. . PTAILEGBSW
Zara Pizzara G-3, Deribasivska 5, tel. 728 88 88. Zaras
Porto F-3, Zhukovskoho 33, tel. 737 38 38. Porto prides
atmosphere is lively, but not too rowdy; making it perfect for the whole family. The Italian fare is robust, aromatic and reasonably priced. Highlights include fresh spinach salads, lasagne and juicy pork and veal dishes. The calzone was a bit salty, but tasty nonetheless. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. . PTAGBSW
Wasser Maltz Biergarten F-2, Havanna 6, tel. 777 88

88, www.pivnoysad.com.ua. The perfect place to bask in a mellow mood while sipping a cold brewsky and nibbling on something tasty. The beer is as fresh as it gets - they brew their own German style lagers and ales on site. The menu is simple but delicious. Listen to live music (Thursday - Sunday) while enjoying the romantic views of The City Garden. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. . PA6LEGBS
Pecheskago F-2, Havanna 10/12, tel. 726 09 79, www.
French
La Veranda G-3, Bunina 21, tel. 34 74 01. La Veranda, formerly Grinvich, prides itself on freshness. Indeed, the recent trend in Odesa has been to ignore freshness by packing the menu with an insane number of selections thus confusing the customer to the point when freshness becomes an illusion. Its refreshing to find a menu chopped down to a delectable untarnished shortlist. The country French fish soup, pt and the province style lamb with stuffed vegetables all attest to the brilliance of La Verandas simple plan. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PALEGBSW
pecheskago.od.ua. Pecheskago gets our pick for the most enchanting dining experience. Throughout the winter, enjoy the view of City Park wrapped inside a domed glass enclosure. The dome comes off in the summer to reveal a terrace perfect for an exclusive outdoor dining experience. Enjoy inventive arrangements of local and European favourites such as Chteau Bryon and Black Sea flounder. Dont forget to take a fat wallet. Its not that menu items are over the top price wise, but the vibes have a way of keeping you in your seat ordering more. Live music every night during the summer season and Thursday - Sunday during the colder months. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. . PTJA6LEGBSW
itself on offering Odesas freshest selection of seafood from the Black Sea and Mediterranean. The ambiance is modestly elegant, but prices arent too over the top making this a must for fish lovers rich and poor. However, the price on many fish items is listed per 100 grams; ask your server the approximate size of your selection in order to cut down on confusion when receiving the bill. The method of preparation is up to you, items may be sauted, steam boiled or grilled. The menu also pulsates with a variety of fresh salads, pasta dishes, fresh squeezed juices, etc. They stage great holiday specials and entertainment events such as art demonstrations, occasional live music and showings of Chornomorets football games. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. . PTAEBSW
Russian
Balalaika F-2, Katerynynska 12, tel. 784 07 08/784
02 03. Feel free to hum the Beatles Back in the USSR as you enter this eatery set in a carved out cosy wooden interior and adorned with balalaikas and other traditional knickknacks. The menu offers an exciting introduction to the local cuisine that is sure to keep any comrade warm. The pickled watermelon, Beluga caviar and roast veal all explode with rich authentic flavour, and if the open grill doesnt wet your pallet you dont deserve taste buds. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. . PAULGSW
Mexican
Estrelita F-2, Katerynynska 1, tel. 37 29 20. Two things
that really stood out about visit to Estrelita: fantastic stuffed jalapeos and the bartender who served us was a real condescending jerk. He gave a good ribbing and kept calling me Yankee - silly khokhol (Russian slang for a Ukrainian). In spite of it all, Ill be back. Next time Ill sit at a table, enjoy the service of one of the lovely waitresses and devour a chimichanga with rabbit. Tango lessons and live music on Saturdays. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. . PTAUEB
Steakhouse
Steakhouse: Meat and Wine F-2, Deribasivska
20, tel. 34 87 82, www.steak.od.ua. The locals like to congregate out front and pose with the statue of the red and white zebra-striped cow, but inside its all about the beef and vino (wine). There are many delicious dishes on the menu that dont include beef, but dont be ridiculous! The sirloin here is so succulent that youll think youve been beamed from Odesa, Ukraine to Odesa, Texas. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. . PTA6GBW
Italian
Casa Nova G-2, Deribasivska 4, tel. 33 54 55. A fantastic choice for starting or ending a romantic evening, this exclusive restaurant is crisscrossed by nearly all of Odesas romantic strolling routes. Italian lovers wont be disappointed as the inventive fresh fish and grill items perfectly compliment the homemade pasta. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PTJALEGBSW
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restaUrants
Seafood
Alyie Parusa F-2, Katerynynska 14, tel. 725 07 58. A
paper sign taped to the front window read air conditioner inside. We didnt expect much as we entered, but were humbled by an elegant mood complete with classy table arrangements and a menu full of tempting seafood (black sea flounder, sturgeon, pike perch, prawns, etc.). Not in the mood for fish, the grill doesnt disappoint. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. . PALBS
restaUrants
Compot F-2, Deribasivska 20, tel. 728 77 75. Compot
is a beloved traditional Ukrainian beverage with a simple recipe: take some fruit, add water, boil it down, dont forget to sweeten and whala youve just created a tasty refreshment. The caf embodies the recipe in that its simple, delicious and has a very sweet location right in middle of Deribasivska vul. A popular coffee and sandwich hangout for local youths, exciting specials are on offer from 9:00 - 12:00. Also at F-5, Panteleimonivska 70. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. . PTAGBSW
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City Time Kryshtalevyi prov. 1/1, Morskoy Hotel, tel.

33 90 55, www.morskoy.com. A part of the Morskoy Hotel complex, the location and elegant atmosphere more than justify the fifteen minute taxi ride. Choose from a variety of succulent dishes including grilled sturgeon and salmon, shrimp and scallops. If youre not in the mood for fish, try one of the tantalizing beef, pork or mutton dishes. Allow us to recommend a romantic after dinner stroll - City Time is located just metres from the beach. QOpen 07:00 - 02:00. . PTALEGBSW
Gallery F-3, Preobrazhenska 25, tel. 729 48 58.
Chervonyi Lobster (Red Lobster) H-3, Marazliivska
1G, tel. 715 02 22. Youll notice right away that this is not a part of the popular American Red Lobster franchise - an unfortunate association for such an elegant restaurant. The enchanting immaculate interior and the unmatched selection of exquisite seafood make this one of Odesas most popular dining destinations. The fresh lobster is an obvious favourite as is the open-air courtyard. The live piano adds another level of lure to the ambiance. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. . PTALEGBS
Throughout the warm months the restaurant makes use of delightful and popular park-front terrace. When its cold, the restaurant is located on the second floor of the Gallery building. The first floor is home to one of citys biggest flower markets. Proceed through this aromatic maze to the spiral staircase. Once on the second floor youll find a tasteful restaurant wrapped in lush greenery. The menu is a smorgasbord of culinary favourites. Ukrainian dominates but youll also find French, Mexican and even a Waldorf salad. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. . PTAEG Beach, tel. 735 38 73, www.xutor-ok.com. The restaurant offers tribute in the form of a menu loaded with traditional Ukrainian cuisine. With an unmatched setting on the edge of Taras Shevchenko Park near Lanzheron Beach, this is an extremely popular summer destination and is a wonderful place for travellers to acquaint themselves with traditional local cuisine. Live Ukrainian folk music, a childrens playground and proximately to summer attractions makes this a top pick for families. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PTA6LEBSW
Khutorok u Morya I-4, Shevchenkos Park, Lanzheron
Spanish
Don Quixote G-3, Bunina 16, tel. 32 10 32. Surrounded
by seoritas pushing plates to rhythmic flamenco undertones its easy to forget youre in Ukraine. The menus in Spanish and English. Start with one of the many delectable appetisers then move on to the grilled veal medallions in a wine berry sauce or the juicy grilled lamb. (Did that get your attention?) Anyone who has actually read Don Quixote cover to cover gets a 50% discount (only kidding). QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. . PTAGB
Kumanets F-2, Havanna 7, tel. 37 69 46. We took a
Ukrainian
Arina Arkadia, Centralna Alleya, tel. 701 75 63, www.
arina.net.ua. The stunning views of the beach and sea, limited seating and reasonable prices make this restaurant/hut an exclusive eatery. Service is hip; however, theres neither English nor pictures on the menu so take your dictionary and naive western charm and youre sure to get good service. Popular grill items and an Odesian twist on a variety of Ukrainian and European favourites are on offer. The smell and sound of the surf is sure to enhance the flavour of your meal, snatching it right up off your pallet and cramming it straight into your brain. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. . AEGBSW
couple visiting from America to Kumanets. An Idaho farm boy and a butchers daughter from Californias cattle country, our friends are used to the finest, freshest, tastiest cuts of meat. Dishes at this Ukrainian themed eatery rip will flavour: we knew our guests wouldnt be disappointed. Indeed, this was the culinary highlight of their trip. The pork dishes drip with succulence and the hearty soups are meals in themselves. Ukrainian tradition requires that diners throw back a shot of samohon (homemade vodka) to stimulate appetite before indulging. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. . PTAS
Ukrainska Lasunka F-2, Deribasivska 17, tel. 725
84 12/731 54 27, www.lakomka.com.ua. With such a vibrant 19th Century Ukrainian village atmosphere its easy to imagine what it must have been like to dine at Taras Shevchenkos cottage, and the menu (in English) doesnt miss a dish from babushkas cookbook. Its to your advantage to be a bit loud yet jovial as the wait staff is either very busy or busy being lethargic. This technique works in drawing attention in a good way. Not surprising for a city by the sea, they have an extensive seafood selection. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. . PAEGSW
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What to see
What to see
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CaFs
With all the new establishments popping-up, complimenting the already established favourites, theoretically it is possible to visit a different caf everyday and never see the same place twice. The only problem is finding one that caters to the early-bird westerner - most cafs dont open until after 9:00. When the locals finally roll out of bed they tend to congregate at their favourite cafs where they soak in the fresh aromas and quietly recover, like alley-cats licking wounds, from whatever adventure they happened upon the previous night. Most places offer extended and often extravagant menus making that trip to a restaurant a redundant gluttonous frill. Odesas historical diversity is represented in the variety of its cafs. Italian, Ukrainian, Jewish, Belgian, Greek, Middle Eastern and French establishments all put their own original ethnic spin on the drink that connects us all: coffee.
CaFs
Fanconi 1872 F-2, Katerynynska 15/17, tel. 34 66
66. Fanconi was established in 1872 making it Odesas oldest cafe. That said, there is very little linking this famed caf to its noteworthy past: disappointing for those hoping to sneak a peak into Odesas history, exciting for locals craving only those things glitzy, fashionable and new. Perhaps the only features to have remained constant throughout its history are the scrumptious deserts. Sushi is the craze these days and Fanconi has not merely jumped onto the Japanese bandwagon, but is apparently steering it. They offer an ample selection of sushi and the karaoke lounge kicks off nightly at 20:00. Other mentionables include fantastic terrace seating on a more or less quiet intersection and a modish energetic crowd. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. PALBSW
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Maner () E-2, Soborna pl. 4, tel. 731 57 77. A gigantic Hugh Jackman gawked at us with his trademark smirk from across the room as we sipped our tasty tea. Maner falls into the category we like to call Odesian chic. Fancy draperies, uncomfortable comfortable-looking chairs, two turn tables, sushi, hookah, etc. The menu is eclectic enough to satisfy all in your party with the most note worthy items being the iced coffees (latte, mochachino and frappuccino) a rarity for this part of the world. No English menu but the staff is fluent. This is more of a meet-up-before-clubbing joint, rather than a morning coffee place. QOpen 10:00 - 03:00. PAILW Paparazzi F-2, Katerynynska 8/10, tel. 34 80 70. This
establishment pays tribute to some of the most loathsome and intolerable individuals on the planet: the paparazzi. Much like the fiendish photographers, this restaurant is quite infectious. After devouring some juicy barbeque, we found ourselves lulled into a rather cheerful mood, and it seemed almost cool to hound Paris Hilton outside a night club or to hide in Brad Pitts bushes. Griddle items and fish specialties round out a very flavourful menu. If you happen to have a Polaroid camera, youre welcome to pin up your own mug-shot. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PJAG
Have Your Say

If you have had an experience to remember at any of the venues listed in this guide, be it good, bad, ugly or downright sad, let the two million regular unique visitors to our website, www.inyourpocket.com, know about it. Every venue on our website now has a module below it for you to comment on the places we write about. You can agree with us, scold us, praise us or damn us to hell (in the case of angry restaurant owners unhappy with their reviews).
Fashion Caf IT E-2, Soborna pl. 2, tel. 777 71 51. Like

many of ITs competitors, IT has an impressive selection of dishes to choose from. The enticing pick of seafood and kabobs is worth checking out. The exceptional feature about IT is that IT has, perhaps, the most extensive selection of caf style beverages in the city. QOpen 10:00 - 02:30. P
Alladin F-4, Troitska 52, tel. 722 13 45. This sandwich
bar is a relaxing timeout from hectic city centre days and is a great choice for those in a hurry or short of cash. Yanks can find a cure for their Philly cheesesteak craving (they serve a tasty Ukrainian versions of the real thing). Pizzas and wraps tie up the menus loose ends and the service is pleasant. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. PJL
Fat Mozes F-2, Katerynynska 8/10, tel. 714 47 74.
Baskin Robins F-3, Hretska 44, tel. 717 59 41. Feeling homesick or nostalgic for your youth? Baskin Robins can sooth your emotional aches and pains. With all the familiar flavours you grew up with on display all you need is your pointer finger to be clearly understood. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Biscuit G-3, Hretska 5, tel. 734 11 11. The theme of
With enticing breakfast, brunch and lunch specials and a fantastic dinner selection, Mozes is an affordable no-brainer regardless the occasion. They offer a fine selection of steaks, i.e. filet mignon and a baked veal Swiss steak. Portion sizes qualify as hearty and the atmosphere is infectiously jovial. This is a great place to take the kids as everything on the whole is nailed down and its o.k. to be boisterous. Also, pleasant terrace seating is available on one of Odesas most popular streets. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00. PTAGBSW
Paradnaya No 1 E-3, Soborna pl. 1, tel. 702 73 94/716
this ultra stylish caf might be described as Victorias Secret meets Betty Crocker. Advanced warning for the indecisive: the plethora of exhilarating Italian selections will have you banging your head against the table in an attempt to choose just one. The fresh homemade mozzarella is a top pick as are the unforgettably rich deserts. The secluded curtainedoff seating for larger groups is a posh exclamation on whats sure to be a loaded experience. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAULGBSW
Gallery Rose Caf and Art Salon F-2, Havanna 2,
tel. 33 32 31. Gallery has a traditional caf style menu with crpes, omelettes, soups, deserts, shakes and an arousing coffee selection. Anyone interested in visual art should visit. The caf hosts exhibitions of intriguing work by local artists. The accommodating staff and reasonable prices are both welcome pluses. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. PA6GS
53 93. The indoor seating is incredibly homey. Its like sitting down for a meal at your aunts house. Everything about the atmosphere is familiar: from the comfy stripe-pattern sofa to the cockatoo chirping in the corner. Out front youll find a small but popular patio. The menu offers a robust selection of salads, traditional soups and tasty meat and fish dishes. Those dishes with familiar western names are actually bastardized versions of the real thing. The Caesar salad, for example, consists of chopped cucumbers, tomatoes, cheddar cheese, smoked ham, croutons, boiled quail eggs and mayonnaise. Where they found this recipe is anyones guess. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. PTAEGSW
Siesta Dali F-3, Zhukovskoho 17, tel. 722 05 70. This
Sakhar H-4, Uspenska 5, tel. 724 61 15. It was 9:35, and
place has a rather eclectic menu. Youll find American mixed in with some Italian and splattered with some local grub. Situated near a busy intersection, its hard to hear yourself think outside, but its quiet and relaxing indoors. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. PAUGBSW
Gallo Caf G-4, Troitska 26, tel. 785 58 69/785 58
Buffalo 99 Sport Caf G-3, Rishelievska 7, tel. 34 83
99. We bumped into a couple of expats just before dinner and asked them where they like to eat. They blurted out in unison Buffalo 99. We went to check it out, and quickly discovered why this place is so popular: fantastic indoor and outdoor seating, western standard service and scrumptious, familiar dishes such as fajitas, fettuccine alfredo and barbequed lamb chops. After dinner, we sat back with a cappuccino and American-style cheesecake (a rarity for this part of the world) and watched a rerun of the NBA finals. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. PALGBSW
70. Gallo is a no-nonsense caf offering great specials, even better service and a winning menu stuffed with breakfasts, salads, soups, sandwiches and dinner items such as homemade pasta with brynza (Ukrainian feta) and sweet peppers, Roquefort stuffed pork and a veal steak in a whisky sauce. Tasty deserts and rich coffee compliment the mellow mood. The spiral staircase leads to an expanded dining area with views of the street and a pair of romantic balcony tables. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. PTAIGBSW
was jonesing for my morning cup of joe. This place doesnt open till 10:00! I sulked, paced, cursed and kicked the curb like a ravenous mental patient. Finally, the doors opened and instant satisfaction! Sakhar has breakfast starting at 16Hr and coffee, the elixir of life. The owner declared the coffee to be the best in the city. You be the judge. Theyre also adequately equipped to handle lunch and dinner. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. P6LS
Simge Arkadia Beach, tel. 8 067 178 80 76. Simge offers
Sherlock G-3, Polska 14, tel. 49 67 14/32 12 00.

The entrance to this British (no sh** Sherlock) theme caf is actually on Bunina. Many of the dishes have extremely vivid names, i.e. Stubborn Billy Salad, dont teach your grandmother to suck eggs breakfast and salmon in two sauces (so what if the name of the salmon dish isnt witty, it certainly is delicious). Their specialties come from the grill with the sturgeon shashlyk topping the list. Attentive charming service and the comfortable setting make this a great choice for afternoon tea or a couple pints with your mates. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00. PTAUIEGBSW
a welcome retreat from the sand, sun and surf. Seating is comfortable and the mood is uncommonly mellow for a caf set on Arkadia Beachs boardwalk. The server was very attentive and charming. That was the good, now for a shortlist of this joints deficiencies. Firstly, we watched as the bartender made a cappuccino with instant coffee. Secondly, the champagne arrived to the table with a plastic cork. The food was decent (Ukrainian fish and grill items top the menu), but value for hryvnia was debatable. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. PLENGBS
Top Sandwich Deribasivska 14, tel. 728 16 72. With
Love Caf F-2, Katerynynska 12, tel. 784 02 03/784
Citrus E-2, Preobrazhenska 30, tel. 737 34 18. Citrus
is located just off Deribasivska vul. adjacent to the Citrus Discount Clothing store. This seems like a humble place, but beware of the tasty absinth-espresso that goes straight to your head and may result in regrettable flirtations with the innocent-eyed waitress. The menu has a stunning selection of coffees, soups, salads and sandwiches. The complimentary shot of water was a charmingly European touch. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. W
07 08. Like many of its competitors, Love is more of a restaurant than a caf as it has an impressive menu (English available). Unlike many of its competitors, Loves staff showers guests with affectionate service - they speak English too. The focus is on romance, and the outdoor terrace is the perfect setting for those looking to charm the one-night-stand, woo the mail-order-bride or adore the once-in-a-lifetime-perfectsoul-mate. QOpen 09:00 - 01:00. PTALGBSW Tucked away on a pedestrian only garden walkway just off of Deribasivska vul., this is a must for coffee connoisseurs. The menu and service is exceptional, but with a location like this it really wouldnt matter. Ultra elegant interior and outdoor seating is available. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. PTAUGBSW
more than 30 mouthwatering sandwiches and wraps to choose from, theres something for every taste. This kid friendly establishment is great if you need quality in a hurry. No menu in English, but plenty of pictures and a patient wait staff that speaks some English. Plenty of indoor and outdoor seating is available. Also at Preobrazhenska 42, Preobrazhenska 52, Panteleimonivska 21, Deribasivska 18, Katerynynska 6. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00.
Shyko E-3, Hretska 50, tel. 777 47 47/37 85 90. Shyko
Napoleon E-2, Preobrazhenska 28, tel. 717 74 73.
The Odesa telephone code is +380 48 (482)

is tucked away just off Hretska pl. Enjoy the curbside seating or find a cosy, silent niche inside for a mellow conversation with friends. Dont forget your pocket dictionary - no English menu nor English speaking staff. However, the excellent coffee and breakfast starting at 16Hr more than compensate for the language barrier. Need one for the road? Shyko offers a 20% discount on coffee and desert to go. Also at Sofiivska 23. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. PALGBSW
Troubadour Belgian Beer Caf G-3, Zhukovskoho

13, tel. 785 58 63/785 58 64. Have you ever tasted beer cream soup with broccoli and Roquefort, or seafood lasagne or monkfish in curry sauce? It would be an understatement to say that Troubadour has one of the most palate arousing menus in town. Did I mention that they also have an impressive selection of draught and bottled beers? This is a must see, smell and taste for connoisseurs. Other highlights include an attentive English speaking staff and live jazz on Saturdays. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. PAEGBSW
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nightLiFe
Take the citys raving locals, mix them with adventurous foreigners and infuse maniacal vacationers and youve just created the most beautiful concoction of partiers anywhere in Ukraine. Venturing out, youre sure to find Odesas scene charged as the pubs and clubs convulse with the kind of lust that cries out for just one more night. The highest concentration of clubs is along the shore with most pubs and bars dotting an already rich entertainment landscape in the historic centre. With the help of the overtly friendly locals, its easy to get carried away - please party responsibly.
nightLiFe
Gambrinus F-2, Deribasivska 31, tel. 726 36 57.
Gambrinus is not only the name of the unofficial patron saint of beer brewing, but also that of the outstanding local brew that flows in delicious torrents from this establishments taps. While many pubs shun Odesas roots, this fine watering hole embraces them with a big Popeye the Sailormans hug. The cavernous upside down hull adorned with mementos from the sea puts one in the mood to set sail, but before you do be sure and sample the pork leg in sauce or the Gambrinus special (dorado with peppers and onions in a mint almond sauce). Live music is staged just about every night. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PEBS We headed off to Klondike at about 22:00 and on the way we crossed paths with a local dude puking all over his shoes, followed by a street-dog fight and then a scuffle amongst market vendors that required police intervention. Though this bar is set in a newly built structure, its located slightly over on the wrong side of the tracks. When we finally arrived we found a sleepy tavern. We sat down, ordered a couple beers and joined in with a waitress and a local card shark watching the Eurovision Song Contest. Flipping through the menu, the hearty breakfasts and fine pick of grilled sausages stood out like glistening gold nuggets at the bottom of an Alaskan stream. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. PAULS Christmas decorations. The location, out of the way in a dimly lit neighbourhood, is far from ideal. On the bright side, its a passable joint for sports viewing and you get to fawn over local waitresses who prance about in sailor costumes. Also at vul. Torhova 51. QOpen 09:30 - 24:00. PBS
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Ibiza Arkadia Beach, tel. 777 02 05/777 02 04. Overlooking Arcardia beach, Ibiza is one of the citys sexiest and most popular clubs. Cosy Mediterranean inspired seating wraps around a stage and dance floor that regularly feature top Ukrainian rock and pop stars, DJs and dancers. Arrive early if youre hoping for a table close to the action, this place is usually packed and pulsates with life. During the day, the club transforms into a tranquil restaurant with a menu featuring inventive Ukrainian and European dishes. Staff is professional and friendly. Like many establishments located on the beach, Ibiza is open only during the summer.QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Admission 80Hr. PAB
Bars & Pubs

Azart Sport Caf #1 G-2, Rishelievska 5, tel. 714 49
76. This is a fantastic sport viewing venue for one simple reason: each table has its own screen. Your days of fighting for the remote with the rugby loving Scotsman are over! We asked for the menu and the waitress stared at us like a Ukrainian chick in the headlights. Apparently there is no menu nor kitchen nor beverage menu. Nobody seemed to be able or willing to speak English either. Luckily youll find that most of your favourite cocktails have universal names, i.e. if you ask the waitress for sex on the beach shes likely bring you a drink rather than slap you in the face. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. PALBW
Klondike F-5, Panteleymonivska 23, tel. 786 01 16.
Veselyi Roger (Jolly Roger) G-2, Devolanovskyi Uzviz 1, tel. 728 65 38. The owner, bartender and even the barmaid are diehard Liverpool fans. Dont worry, you dont have to swear your allegiance or sing Youll Never Walk Alone in order to get great service, but you might want to keep your Man United kit concealed under your jacket. The beers cheap and the grubs satisfying, but these are trivial side notes to the pubs real appeal - this is an exceptionally inviting neighbourhood pub with the citys friendliest staff. We had planned to stay 20 minutes but ended up leaving after four and a half hours. On our way out the door, Victor the bartender reminded us that The secret to a happy life is dont plan just be. Veselyi Roger is located on Mytna pl. (square), which is best accessed via Lanzheronivska vul. The top section of Devolanivskyi vul., between Zhukovskoho and Bunina, is an urban wasteland complete with crumbling buildings and sidewalks and skittish alley-loitering junkies. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. P6LBS Wasser Maltz Biergarten F-2, Havanna 6, tel. 777 88
88, www.pivnoysad.com.ua. The perfect place to bask in a mellow mood while sipping a cold brewsky and nibbling on something tasty. The beer is as fresh as it gets - they brew their own German style lagers and ales on site. The menu is simple but delicious. Listen to live music (Thursday - Sunday) while enjoying the romantic views of The City Garden. QOpen 11:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 01:00. PA6L EGS
Vechirnia Odesa G-5, Pushkinska 59, tel. 32 14 21.
Vechirnia Odesa is one of the oldest night clubs in Odesa, but old in this case doesnt mean obsolete, as the constant stream of party-goers proves. The professional sound and lighting, and excellent bartenders and DJs set the stage for an unforgettable evening. Did I mention that the club is actually a docked sea liner? This is a comfortable and carefree setting to escape the vanity of the city. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
YO Club G-3, Polskyi Uzviz 15, tel. 37 15 15/714 48 01,

www.club-yo.od.ua. Not so long ago, this place was filled with the screeching clamour of factory equipment. Today, house and techno rhythms reign. The club is divided into different zones, but the basic laws of social ecstasy prevail throughout. On the ground floor, a 14 kilowatt progressive sound system penetrates the marrow with trendy European club sets. Nostalgia is on special in the Disco Bar, and Whisky Bar stimulates light conversation with muted background tunes. QOpen 10:00 03:00. Admission 80Hr. PAEW
Mickey ONeils Irish Pub F-2, Deribasivska 13, tel.

721 53 33. ONeils is extremely popular with expats, and for good reason: familiar food. The pub sits like an alluring emerald on the end of Deribasivska vul. This is a must visit for breakfast lovers and is one of only a few sports viewing venues in the city. The pool tables smack dab in the middle of the pub - right where its supposed to be. Excellent English speaking staff ensures minimal confusion. This is an always welcoming oasis in what can sometimes be a foreigner hostile environment. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. PTALEBSW
Blues Bar Dykyi Z (Wild Z) E-4, Preobrazhenska

66, tel. 728 14 53. You know youre having too much fun when the bouncer taps you on the shoulder and says, Sir, please put your shirt back on, youre scaring the other guests. Blues Bar rocks! Also, this is the first place where when I asked for the menu they gave me a newspaper - read up on local events while ordering from a menu full of classic bar/grill favourites. Live blues and rock till the wee hours of the morning and the best bar staff in town. QOpen 00:00 24:00. Admission 20 - 70Hr. PAEW
Clubs
Captain Morgan F-3, Zhukovskoho 30, tel. 728 84
82. Popular with locals and expats alike, Captain Morgans proudly encourages lewd and wild behavior including shots, table dancing and blatant flirtations with the opposite sex. What else would you expect from joint that displays a banner that reads drink and dance? A DJ spins atop the bar and all unconsciously convulse to the rhythm. This place is infectious, in a good way. The only drawback is the 30Hr cover charge, but thats chump change when you consider the good times youll have. The kitchen whips up first-rate food (menu in English), and servers speak some English. QOpen 09:00 - 06:00. PAW
Communism
Like an aggressive case of athletes foot, communism refuses to go away. While Ukraines youth embraces capitalism and nationalism, many elderly and disillusioned citizens cling to socialism. In June 2009, this political divide made international news as hooligans linked to a Ukrainian nationalist organisation savagely vandalised a famous statue of Vladimir Lenin in Kyiv. Most people, Ukrainians included, link communism to Russia this is inaccurate. Many leaders of the Bolshevik Revolution were, in fact, from Ukraine. The most notable of the lot was Lev (Leon) Trotsky, who actually attended secondary school in Odesa. Also, many prominent Soviet leaders had Ukrainian roots. Leonid Brezhnev was born in the Dnipropetrovsk Oblast. Nikita Khruschev moved from Russia to Donetsk as a teenager, and ascended the ranks of the Communist Party in Donbas and Kyiv. Two monumental atrocities occurred under Stalins rule, and memory of the carnage continues to stoke Ukrainian nationalism. The first tragedy is known as Holodomor (starvation), a famine which took place in 1932-33. It is estimated that as many as 2.6 - 10 million Ukrainians perished. There is evidence showing that the famine was, in part, orchestrated by the Soviet leadership in an attempt to squash Ukrainian nationalism. Whether this act should be classified as genocide is currently being debated around the world. The second tragedy is known as the Great Purge (19361938). Stalin was obsessed with the complete eradication of political rivals including fellow party members, military commanders, dissidents, artists and anyone else worth being suspicious of. It is estimated that he ordered the execution of as many as 500,000 Soviet people and had millions more sent to gulags (penal labour/death camps). Ukraines share of the victims was disproportionately high.
Diysno Dobre Pyvo F-3, Zhukovskoho 23, tel. 35 57
Oreshek (Nut) F-4, Troitska 50, tel. 785 59 85. Youll
59. Diysno is a laid-back neighbourhood pub/restaurant where locals come to suck the guts out of tasty signature shrimp dishes and pound Ukrainian brew (eight varieties on tap). The atmosphere is cosy and the staff is friendly, but a bit lacking in English ability. The menu (in Russian only) offers an ample selection of traditional salads and soups and reasonably priced steaks and other meat dishes. This is a popular stop for boisterous football fans with local games regularly scheduled for viewing. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PS
Dobre Pyvo (Good Beer) F-5, Velyka Arnautska 42,
get the meaning of the name upon your first step over the threshold - the peanut shells havent been swept up for more than six months. Sitting at the seemingly endless bar is encouraged, as is making a mess of the floor. This place rocks just every night of the week regardless the season. The stage attracts the best in live local talent and DJs and theme nights (Queen night, Disco night, Sony Playstation competitions, etc.) pack a fun-filled schedule. We happened to be there during a beer shortage and had to settle for a small bottle of bastardized Stella Artois - yuck! QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. E
Europarty Club F-2, Katerynynska 12, tel. 784 02
tel. 34 48 03. We cant argue with the name. They serve only stellar imports such as Guinness, Krombacher, Pilsner Urquell, etc. We found the location to be a touch ironic: Dobres neon lights advertising beer and debauchery juxtaposed to those of the local mosque advertising sobriety and devotion. Beer isnt the only thing on tap, they have a notable wine and cocktail selection and a memorizing savoury grill, which is closely monitored by the Wolfgang Puck of grill chefs. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. P6IGS
Pivnaya Bochka (Beer Barrel) F-5, Pushkinska 76,
Glasgow E-4, Uspenska 95, London Hotel, tel. 784 08

98, www.london-hotel.com.ua. Q: What does a Scotsman/ Irishman/Ukrainian wear under his kilt? A: Lipstick. The extremely courteous bartender at Glasgow, a quiet pub located in the lobby of Hotel London, proudly sports a kilt. Known for its scrumptious cakes, inventive cocktails and real English tea, this pub has the remedy for the British homesick blues. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00. PALGW
tel. 722 43 62. The sign out font read the the beer keg: loads of delicious dishes inside. The dishes are delicious and the beer is cheap and tasty. Being a popular hang-out for locals, the service is tuned to a different frequency than what is standard in the West. Dont take this the wrong way, the service isnt bad, but dont expect the server to anticipate your needs/wants. You must master the art of getting their attention. To do this, confidently and clearly say devushka if your server is female or muschina if your server is male. QOpen 09:30 24:00. PGS
03/784 07 08. This premium-class joint is located in a block-house on the legendary Deribasivska vul. Each night at Euro Party is treated like a glam event. The main dance floor has become a favourite place to see and be seen by Odesas jet set. The stylish interior, convenient lay-out and beautiful upholstered furniture found in both bars provides an ideal setting to chill. The dance floor is reminiscent of a gaudy 80s dance pavilion, and is appropriately named Nostalgia. Ive observed one very simple rule about disco: the more you drink the better it sounds. Enjoy. QOpen Fri, Sat 22:00 - 06:00. Admission from 60Hr. PAW
Hali Gali F-2, prov.Chaikovskoho 18, tel. 722 17 18. Do
Skipper Pub E-5, Zaslavskoho 27, tel. 33 55 07. Skipper
abides by local customs when it comes to service. This may be unchartered waters for greenhorn westerners (see the Pivnaya Bochka review for tips on getting service). Its popularity among Odesians is due in large part to the availability of tradition beer munchies such as krevetki (shrimp), calamari and the dried fish that hangs from stringers above the bar like sinister
you like models? Do you like models in lingerie? Do you like models in lingerie dancing on top of the bar? If your answer was yes to one or more of the questions above, Hali Gali is for you. This spaciousness establishment is, for obvious reasons, very popular with expats. The DJ spins the house and you bring the funk. Have fun, but mind your manners. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. PALW
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What to see
Odesas centre is densely crammed with fascinating, inspiring and unique attractions that draw foreigners in packs. Ukrainian and Russian tourists tend to head straight for the beach, but inevitably make their way to Deribasivska vul. (street) in order to pose in, on and around the many monuments, statues and relatively rare centuries old architecture. Odesa became one of the most important cities during the Russian Empires final epoch and its museums, overflowing with amazing and rare relics, attest to the cities former and current prominence.
What to see
Passage E-2, Deribasivska. An intriguing shortcut from Deribasivska to Preobrazhenska, Passage is known for its beautiful archi tecture and alluring sculptures that adorn the ledges above the alleyways boutiques. Though in need of some repair, even the most pretentious traveller will be charmed by this passages uniqueness.
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Essential Odesa
Constructed in 1803, Odesas first park is located just off Deribasivska and was a gift from Jos de Ribas and his brother to the locals as gratitude for their trust and admiration. Contemporary Odesians rub elbows with tourists drawn in by the parks fountain - a popular place to relax and socialize. A live orchestra stages regular performances. Vibrant bronze statues of lions, literary heroes and the eccentric sportsman Sergei Utochkin spring up from the manicured lawns and beg to photographed.
The City Garden F-2.
Potomkinski Skhody (Potomkins Stairs)
Deribasivska E/G-2. One of the citys main attractions, this
G-2/3, Prymorska. These famous stairs have had a different name in just about every era of their existence. Vorontskyi-Giant-BoulevardCi ty-Richelievsk yi Stairs received their newest title, Potomkitski, following the success of the silent Soviet film The Battleship Potomkin. In the films pivotal scene, the Tsars Cossacks march down the stairs and massacre a crowd of fleeing civilians. The stunning views shown in films and photographs definitely diminish the in-living-colour experience and many visitors find themselves at the precipice of the first step thinking Right. Stairs to the sea. Next sight please.
is arguably the best place to grab a bite, unwind in a caf or go for a stroll. The street was named in honour of Jos de Ribas, a Russian Imperial Navy admiral of Spanish-Irish origin and hero of the Russo-Turkish War. Unmistakable to Soviet people, the street has been the centrepiece of various films, books and songs. The scene is always colourful and there is an energy here that draws one listlessly across the cobble.
Scientists Palace F-2, Sabanaiev Mist 4. Built as
Golden Child Sculpture
G-1, Prymorska. The chubby bronze baby busting out of a futuristic metallic egg in front of the port station is a representation of The Golden Age. The boy looks down philosophically at visitors who grab his toes and pose. Locals believe that touching the toddler will ensure a successful voyage.
a residence for Count M.Tolstoy, a famous patron of the arts, this structure is a wonderfully preserved example of pre-revolutionary architecture. The count and his stunning wife, Yelena Grigoriyevna, established the first emergency medical service in Odesa and constructed the citys largest and most elaborate library. Documentation for this sights inclusion in UNESCO has recently been filed and is under consideration.
bulv. The great-great-grandson of a well-known cardinal, Richelieu was exiled to Russia from France by Marie Antoinette in 1790. He joined the Russian Imperial Army and fought in the RussoTurkish War. He was later appointed by Tsar Alexander I as governor of Odesa. The citys progressive planning and development is credited to his ingenuity and determination. His goal was for Odesa to be recognized as a truly European city. One interesting note: at the base of the monument, coins and medals from the time of Louis XVI, Catherine II, Paul I, Alexander I and Louis XVIII are embedded. Mystetstv. This is one of the longest bridges in Odesa. Legend has it that a highranking official commissioned the bridge in order to be closer to his mother-in-laws scrumptious dumplings. Anyone with a Ukrainian motherin-law will see right through this lie. In spite of the delicious home cooking, most son-in-laws dream in vain of keeping mom out, perhaps with prison style walls and razor wire or, better yet, a couple hungry Dobermans on patrol in the yard in case mom decides to drop in for another unscheduled visit. A local newlywed superstition requires that the happy couple secure a lock on the bridges steel railing and throw away the key. This will ensure a lasting marriage. F-1, Vorontsovskyi prov. 2. A magnificently reconstructed citadel located on the site of on an ancient Greek settlement and Turkish fortress, it suffered many devastating assaults and misfortunes. For example, on April 10th, 1854 an Anglo-French squadron bombarded Odesa. The palace and garden were hit by more than 200 cannonballs, one of which is still embedded in a wall on the ground floor. Next to the palace stands Vorontsovskyi Belvedere. Reminiscent of colonnades constructed in ancient Greece, it is especially stunning when viewed from the sea.
Statue of the Duc de Richelieu G-2, Prymorskyi
City tours
Alvona C-3, Sofiiska 16/16, office 3, tel. 206 14
10/230 47 12, vip@alvona.kiev.ua, www.alvona.com. Diligence H-5, Velyka Arnautska 4, tel. 37 30 37, fax 37 07 27, www.diligence.com.ua. Diligence provides high quality tourist services including accommodation, excursions, transfers, etc. All city tours are organized by knowledgeable specialists and conducted by experienced guides. Restaurant and club reservations, and tickets to shows and concerts are also available. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Sat 11:00 -15:00. A Odesa Sea Port Tourist Bureau G-1, Prymorska 6, tel. 729 38 03, www.port.odesa.ua. Slavyanka Tours G-3, Pushkinska 29/4, tel. 8 067 924 35 82, slavianka@te.net.ua, www.slavianka.info. Strekoza Tenysta 9/12, office 510, tel. 712 25 77/712 25 88, vasha@strekoza.in.ua, www.strekoza.in.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Teschin Mist (Motherin-law Bridge) F-1, bulv.
Dolphinarium
Dolphinarium I-5, Lanzeron beach 25, tel. 722 77
17, www.nemo.od.ua. The largest dolphinarium in the former Soviet Union offers an unforgettable array of experiences including swimming, communicating and diving with dolphins. Above and underwater photo and video sessions with dolphins and seals can be ordered. Extremely popular with vacationers looking for an etched in your mind event, it makes sense to book in advance. Shows times are Tuesday through Sunday 12:00, 15:00, 18:00 and 20:00. A night show on the weekend starts at 21:30. Admission 80Hr, night show 120Hr, children under 5 free.
S e a Te r m i n a l G - 1 ,
House with Telamons
F-1, Hoholia 1. In the front corner of this building, two toga wearing Greeks are ba t tlin g over a gi gan ti c Christmas tree ornament that seems to be holding up the entire structure. If not for Ukrainians bad taste when it comes to balcony construction, one might describe this place as an architectural gem. The house was bestowed to the city by Baron Faltsfein, an Odesian of German decent, and is located on one of Odesas most beautiful streets, where traffic is light and silence not an illusion.
Prymorska 6. Odesas sea terminal was constructed in 1967 and restored into its modern shape in 2000. Many westerners find reassurance in its contemporary glass and metal architecture. The port not only welcomes vessels, bu t is a tourist and cultural centre as well. The Odesa Hotel casts a dominating shadow over the other sights and facilities that include showrooms, a yacht complex, a marine life centre and a marine art gallery.
Vorontsovskyi Palace
Statue of Jos de Ribas G-2, Deribasivska.
Located at the beginning of Deribasivska Str., this is a fitting tribute to Odesas most beloved founder. Jos de Ribas, a Russian Imperial Navy admiral of Spanish-Irish origin, vaulted to hero status during the Russo-Turkish War.
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What to see
Odesa Jewels
Western and Eastern Ar t Museum G-3,
Pushkinska 9, tel. 722 48 15, www.oweamuseum. odessa.ua. If you only have time to visit one museum in Odesa, this is the one. Paintings and sculptures by Michelangelo, Peter Paul Rubens, David Teniers, Sebastian del Piombo, Merisi da Caravaggio, Frans Hals and other masters are on display. Does this museum sound familiar? Perhaps you heard the disturbing news. On July 30, 2008 Caravaggios Taking of the Christ, a painting valued at 100 million dollars, was lifted in one of the worlds most lucrative heists. It seems that only a miracle can bring this spectacular work back to Odesa, but miracles have been known to happen The museum proudly presents two paintings by Dutch master Frans Hals. St. Matthew and St. Luke were painted in the 1620s and are two of the most valuable works on display in Ukraine. The tale of how these paintings found their way to Odesa is truly amazing. Catherine the Great, the worlds most distinguished ar t collector, purchased four of Hals evangelist paintings in Holland near the end of the 18th Century. The ships that were transporting these and other valuables back to St. Petersburg were hit by a brutal storm. One ship sank and the other suffered extensive damage. All four masterworks were believed lost at sea. In 1958, the improbable happened. While perusing Odesas Privoz Market, an art collector was drawn to an old woman selling what appeared to be an ancient painting. Convinced that this was the work of a master, the collector invited the woman back to the museum. She wanted six roubles for the painting; the museum generously gave her nine. A comparable painting was later discovered in the museums store room. An expert from the Hermitage was the first to notice striking similarities between the stored piece and the painting purchased from the old woman. After further research, experts concluded that these were, in fact, two of the missing Hals masterpieces. Both works were proudly displayed in Odesa until, in 1965, they took part in an exhibition in Moscow. While at the Pushkin Museum, St. Luke was savagely cut from its frame. Detectives worked diligently, but hope of ever recovering the painting quickly faded. Luckily, the blundering thieves quarrelled, couldnt come to terms with local scum and began to proposition would be foreign buyers. They eventually crossed paths with a secret service agent. The priceless piece was returned in sorry shape, having spent a year and half rolled up in a tube and stored in a hot dry place. Experts feared that the work was lost, but after two years of delicate restoration the painting was returned to the museum in miraculous condition. The fate of the two other pieces believed lost at sea has also become known. St. Mark has been in the hands of a private German collector for more than 30 years. St. John was sold at auction to American J. Paul Getty and is currently stored at the museum in Los Angeles that bears his name. QOpen 10:30 - 17:30. Closed Wed. Admission 5Hr.
What to see
Museums
Alexander Pushkins Museum G-3, Pushkinska 13,
tel. 22 74 53. Visitors to this museum will become acquainted with the adventures of Odesas most famous short term resident: the esteemed Russian poet Alexander Pushkin. Banished for his political writings, Pushkin found solace in Odesa where he spent 13 fruitful months. The museum is dedicated to telling this story. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Archeological Museum G-2, Lanzheronivska 4, tel. 722 01 71, www.archaeology.odessa.ua. Even with its somewhat diminished collection, this museum inspires delight and wonder. One of the oldest of Odesas museums, it was founded in 1825 and later moved to a specially designed facility in 1883. An impressive exhibit of the Tripolye, Chernyakhovo and other ancient Ukrainian cultures is on hand. The most popular displays are the ancient sarcophaguses and the rich collections of jewellery and other precious artefacts, some of which date back to 1000 B.C. The ensemble of the Egyptian antiquities is the third largest in the former Sov iet Union. Due to the spooky atmosphere, locals are convinced that the place is haunted. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 18Hr, children 6Hr. Excursions 40Hr.
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Bleschunov Municipal Museum of Personal Collection G-4, Polska 19, tel. 22 10 81. This museum/apartment
was the former residence of the alpinist and collector Alexander Bleschunov. It was transferred to the city and opened to the public in 1989. This is a small, but extremely dense and fascinating exposition of various collections of art, relics and crafts. Many themes and regions of the world are represented; from 19th Century Russian, the Buddhist East, Western Europe and the explorers own cherishes relics representing various adventurous stages of his life. There are many features that distinguish this museum, most notably is the gracious staff that creates a welcome home atmosphere. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Wed. Last entrance one hour before closing. Filiki Etheria F-3, Chervonyi prov. 20, tel. 35 71 36, www.hfcodessa.org. Filiki Etheria (Greek meaning society of friends) has been functioning in Odesa since 1979 as a branch of the Regional History Museum. In the days leading up to the citys 200th anniversary, Odesa opened the Greek Cultural Foundation, which is also a functioning part of the museum. These buildings originally belonged to Greeks, and in 1814 functioned as the secret meeting place for the establishment of the revolutionary organization Filiki Etheria, whose objective was independence for all Greeks from Turkish occupation. The history of the creation, administration and activities of Filiki Etheria are on display. The exhibitions are a stirring tribute to the heroic revolutionary members of Odesas Greek community. Enjoy excursions, lectures, thematic conferences and student oriented lectures. Works continue to be updated and expanded. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Fine Art Museum E-1, Sofiivska 5A, tel. 23 82 72, www.museum.odessa.net/fineartsmuseum. This museum is located in the former private residence of Count Pototsky, which was purchased by the city and inaugurated in 1899. The 26 halls host a variety of intriguing exhibits - from ancient icons to modern art. Kiprensky, Topinin, Aivazovsky, Vrubel, Roerich, Benua and Levitan are just some of masters whose art adorns the museums walls. The most curious, must see attraction is the subterranean grotto with a waterfall - an ideal place for a romantic hook-up. QOpen 10:30 - 16:30. Closed Tue. Last entrance one hour before closing. Admission 15Hr, children 7.50Hr. Literature Museum G-2, Lanzheronivska 2, tel. 722 33 70. As you stroll the museums halls, silent portraits gaze down and draw you into their lost world. Books, manuscripts and the personal effects of writers and poets who lived
and worked in Odesa (from Pushkin to Bunin) are on display. Small modern sculptures of beloved literary heroes and their authors adorn the museums courtyard. Besides literary exhibits, the museum also hosts art exhibitions, concerts, book presentations, conferences and cultural activities. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Museum of Waxwork F-2, Rishelievska 4, tel. 22 34 36. All of Odesas greatest celebrities have been gathered in one place: The Museum of Waxwork. This high society circle currently consists of 26 waxy individuals. The good news is that the museum is expanding its display. The bad news is that the museum will be close until spring for this expansion. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Admission 25Hr, students 20Hr, children 5Hr. Numismatics Museum F-3, Hretska 33, tel. 725 02 77, www.museum.com.ua. Who knew that numismatics could be so fascinating? This museum opened its doors to visitors for the first time on January 1, 1999 in commemoration of the citys 205th anniversary. Within its impressive collection, the museum has over 2500 coins and antiquities from various Ukrainian epochs. The collection of relics from the Bosporan Kingdom, an ancient group that inhabited the Northern Black Sea Region for approximately a thousand years, is a must see. QOpen 12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission is free. Regional History Museum F-2, Havanna 4, tel. 22 84 90. Founded in 1955, this museums exhibits are housed in a 19th Century mansion. More than four thousand articles, many of which are priceless, are on display in 12 halls and represent the Odesa region from the 14th Century to the present. The Stara Odesa (Old Odesa) exhibit occupies the second floor. Maps, weapons, engravings, metal-work, paintings, documents and household implements tell the story of the different peoples who fought and died for control of the region. A notable display of publications including a 1581 Ostrozska Bible, a 1606 Trebnik prayer-book and other ethnographic materials offer a literary peak into the time when Cossacks ruled. Finance and trade have always been among Odesas defining industries. Their importance is revealed in exhibitions showing bank notes, insurance policies, cheque-books and other interesting paraphernalia. QOpen 10:00 - 16:30. Closed Fri. Sea Port Museum G-2, Lanzheronivskyi Uzviz 2, tel. 729 38 57. At the bottom of Devolanivskyi Uzviz you will find a fascinating, free museum. It was opened in 1990 in anticipation and commemoration of Odesas 200th anniversary. It is a one-of-a-kind museum as it tells the history of the Black Seas most important port. In the restored dock-worker sleeping quarters hang ancient drawings, original plans of the city and port and even a Cossack war ship. If you would like to learn more about the period on display, check-out Chelkash by the famous Russian writer M. Gorky, in which he describes life on a Black Sea dock. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission is free.
Catacombs
Beneath Odesa lies an incredible labyrinth known as the catacombs. In the early 19th Century, city developers discovered that the plentiful limestone, just meters below, was perfect for construction. Many of Odesas famous architectural monuments are built of bricks cut from this quarried stone; the unintended result was one of the worlds largest networks of tunnels. Unlike the catacombs of Paris and Rome, the only skulls and bones entombed in Odesas catacombs are those of the crazy-brave miners, smugglers, partisans and spelunkers who were unlucky enough to lose their way in this 2,500 km long maze. The only authorised entrance is located in the small village of Nerubayske, 12 km from Odesas centre. The Museum of Par tisan Glor y offers a small yet fascinating glimpse into this vast underground world and is a fi tting tribu te to th e courageous Soviet partisans who lived and staged guerrilla attacks from this sanctuar y against Nazi occupiers. Youll need to hire a guide; theyre the only ones with keys to the entrance. The guide services listed below provide excursions in English and Russian and can arrange transportation to and from Nerubayske.
Ukrainefare Yevreiska 24, office 19, tel. 777 58 74/380 97 258 84 80, www.ukrainefare.com. UkraineFare offers a variety of Odesa tours including a tour of the catacombs. Price for two including transport is 45$, call for a quote for groups of three or more. Booking must be made at least 24 hours before tour date.
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MaiL & Phones

Postal delivery in Ukraine is generally reliable, but every so often a letter or package will go missing and never arrive at its intended destination. The post office remains a throwback to Soviet times with its redundant and confusing bureaucratic order. When sending or picking up a package or letter be patient and try not to be too intimidated by the burly woman shouting incomprehensible orders at you.
getting aroUnd
Mobile phones
There are two types of mobile phone numbers in Odesa - direct numbers (which do not differ from the Odesa fixed line numbers, and may be dialled as such) and mobile numbers (these should be preceded by 8 and the operators code). SMS may not be sent to direct numbers. Mobile phone calls in Ukraine are relatively cheap and very reliable. You do not need to sign a contract or show your documents to use the local providers service. SIM cards are available in special service centres, mobile phone stores and even on the streets. You can also buy cards to refill your account at these same locations.
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Airline ticket offices

AirBaltic Odesa International Airport, 1st floor, tel. 39 33 40, www.airbaltic.com. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Austrian Airlines Odesa International Airport, 1st
floor, tel. 761 67 00, fax 49 00 78, www.austrian.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Trains
Odesa Holovna Train Station F-6, Pryvokzalna pl. 2,
tel. 725 14 18. Odesas rail station is the end of the line. Fortunately for you, youre already in centre. As you proceed to the main hall youll find the departure and arrival schedules. In the halls to the right youll find ticketing windows, a service centre and a bank with currency exchange and ATM. Theres a waiting room with comfortable, plush seating in the service centre. The entrance fee is 5Hr and additional charges vary depending on what you want to do. If you would like to use your mobile phone, for example, the charge is an additional 1.25Hr. An international information desk is also located in the service centre. To the left of the main hall youll find waiting rooms, a caf, toilets, a news stand, a currency exchange and a flat rental service. Upstairs is another waiting room, telephones and a post office. The first aid station, police office, station administration and a secured luggage locker are all located on platform No. 1. If you need to stash your bags for a while the price for this service per day is 8Hr for small bags, 15 for large and 30 for extra large. Directions are clearly marked in English in the main hall, so if at any time you get lost proceed to the main hall for reorientation.
Express mail
DHL Hretska 22, tel. 37 50 37, www.dhl.com.ua. ServTNT Aeroportivska 25, tel. 35 80 10/35 80 20, www. tnt.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. UPS F-4, Onilovoyi prov. 16, tel. 32 19 67/777 07 17, www.ups.com. QOpen 09:00: - 18:00.
ice points: Rishelievska 59, Chorne More Hotel, tel. 30 01 11; Hretska pl. 3/4, tel. 734 43 05. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00.
Carpatair Odesa International Airport, tel. 749 55 14,
fax 749 55 13, odessa@carpatair.com, www.carpatair. com.
Czech Airlines F-2, prov. Chaikovskoho 16, office 1,

tel. 728 62 87, fax 731 42 17, www.crechairlines.com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Beeline H-6, Italiiskyi bulv. 8, tel. 714 85 03, www. beeline.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Intertelecom F-5, Mala Arnautska 70, tel. 743 11 21, www.intertelecom.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sun
10:00 - 17:00.
Donbassaero Odesa International Airport, tel. 711 71 27, www.donbass.aero. QOpen 05:00 - 15:00. EL AL Israel Airlines Odesa International Airport, tel. 49 19 86, fax 49 03 07, www.elal.co.il. QOpen
09:00 - 17:00.
Express mail rates

Comparative rates for sending a package maximum 500g. Frankfurt London DHL 330Hr 330Hr TNT 353Hr 353Hr FedEx 240Hr 240Hr UPS 382Hr 382Hr weighing a New York 330Hr 403Hr 245Hr 400Hr
Post
Central Post Office E-2, Sadova 10, tel. 726 65 40, www.ukrposhta.com. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00
- 15:00.
KyivStar GSM G-2, Lanzheronivska 3, tel. 777 07 77, www.kyivstar.net. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. Life F-5, Hretska 33, tel. 33 29 15, www.life.com. ua. Also at vul. Velyka Arnautska 63, tel. 49 62 32. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. MTS F-3, Bazarna 60/61, tel. 34 37 02, www.mts. com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. Utel F-3, Katerynynska 37, tel. 786 99 11, www.utel. ua. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Kiy Avia E-2, Preobrazhenska 15, tel. 725 10 30/725
00 33, www.kiyavia.com/en/. Kiy Avia provides airline tickets, hotels booking and tour around Ukriane. Also at Odesa International Airport. QOpen 8:00 - 20:00.
Malev Hungrian Airlines Odesa International Airport,

2nd floor, tel. 749 54 75, fax 762 36 36, www.malev. com.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00.
Domestic train schedule

From Odesa Dep. Arr. 19:10 13:04 15:35 10:35 (on even days) 22:21 09:20 14:47 07:50 (on even days) 15:35 07:40 (on odd days) 18:51 08:50 14:09 21:19 13:23 20:25 23:19 08:32 19:10 06:46 22:57 07:38 19:00 07:10 14:47 13:33 (on odd days) 14:09 19:30 19:31 07:25 18:13 13:16 14:09 07:20 City CHERNIHIV CHERNIVTSI DNIPROPETROVSK DONETSK IVANO-FRANKIVSK KHARKIV KHERSON KHMELNYTSKIY KYIV KYIV KYIV LVIV LUHANSK MYKOLAIV SIMFEROPOL UZHHOROD ZAPORIZHYA To Odesa Dep. Arr. 20:52 10:27 13:55 08:59 (on odd days) 19:30 06:39 16:57 09:17 (on odd days) 17:00 08:59 (on even days) 18:08 08:19 21:58 05:03 22:30 05:43 22:59 08:50 18:21 05:41 21:54 06:10 19:43 07:50 12:40 09:17 (on even days) 00:10 05:03 19:25 08:10 18:05 13:31 12:50 05:03
09:30 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 15:00.
Polish Airlines Odesa International Airport, 1st floor, tel. 749 55 95, fax 749 55 80, www.lot.com. QOpen
Using a telephone
Fixed line telephone
Odesa has two different types of fixed line numbers one type has six digits and the other has seven. To call a number inside Odesa just dial the number. To make a longdistance call, dial 8, wait for the dial tone and then dial the city code and number. To call Odesa from another city or town, dial 8, wait for the tone, dial Odesas city code (048 for seven digit numbers, or 0482 for six digit numbers) and then the number. To make an international call, dial 8, wait for the tone, then dial 10 plus the country code, city code and number itself. Ukrainian city codes Cherkasy 047 Kirovohrad 052 Sevastopol 069 Chernihiv 046 Kyiv 044 Simferopol 065 Chernivtsi 037 Luhansk 064 Sumy 054 Dnipropetrovsk 056 Lutsk 033 Ternopil 035 Donetsk 062 Lviv 032 Uzhhorod 031 Ivano-Frankivsk 034 Mykolaiv 051 Vinnitsa 043 Kharkiv 057 Odesa 048 Zaporizhya 061 Kherson 055 Poltava 053 Zhytoymyr 041 Khmelnytsky 038 Rivne 036 The above Ukrainian city codes should be prefixed with an 8 if dialling from another Ukrainian city or town. International country codes Australia 61 Germany 49 Poland 48 Austria 43 Greece 30 Romania 40 Belgium 32 Hungary 36 Russia 7 Bulgaria 359 Ireland 353 Spain 34 Canada 1 Israel 972 Sweden 46 Czech Rep. 420 Italy 39 Turkey 90 Denmark 45 Japan 81 Ukraine 380 Finland 358 Moldova 373 UK 44 France 33 Netherlands 31 USA 1 The above international country codes should be prefixed with 8 10 if dialling from inside Ukraine.
Tavrey Airlines Frantsuzkyi bulv. 42/1, tel. 37 07 73, fax 786 00 06, www.tavrey.com. QOpen 09:00
- 18:00. 34 79 06/34 79 07, fax 34 79 04, www.thy.com. Also at Odesa International Airport, tel. 49 00 90. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00.
Turkish Airlines G-3, Pushkinska 19, office 17, tel.
Postal rates
Letters (<20g) 1,50Hr S 3,85Hr S 5,39Hr A S A Surface mail Air mail Within Ukraine Abroad Postcards 1,50Hr S 3,85Hr S 5,39Hr A
Ukraine International Airlines Odesa International

Airport, 1st floor, tel. 37 57 15/39 37 10, www.flyuia. com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Car rental
Avis H-4, Uspenska 4A, office 12, tel. 722 64 13, odessa@avis.com.ua, www.avis.com.ua/en. QOpen
09:00 - 17:00.
Public internet access

Angar 18 F-5, Velyka Arnautska 52, tel. 34 36 46. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 6Hr per hour. D8 G-2, Deribasivska 8, tel. 37 70 44. QOpen 09:00
- 21:00. 5Hr per hour. - 24:00. 7Hr per hour.
Europcar F-5, Rishelievska 59, Chorne More Hotel, tel. 777 40 11, www.europcar.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Smile F-3, Hretska 46, tel. 785 65 80. QOpen 00:00 Submarine E-4, Preobrazhenska 49/51, tel. 37
71 97. 4Hr per hour, scanning and printing services. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00.
Hertz G-1, Prymorska 6, tel. 729 33 58, odesa@hertz. ua, www.hertz.ua/en. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
International train schedule

From Odesa City Dep. Arr. 15:04 08:21 ADLER (on even days) 22:21 22:32 (5) BAKU (2) 18:23 07:31 (1,2,3,6) BERLIN (1,3,4,5) 14:30 12:50 MINSK 15:04 15:16 MOSCOW 18:13 06:54 (2,3,5,7) PRAGUE (2,4,5,7) 18:13 09:26 PRZEMYSL 18:32 06:15 ST.-PETERSBURG 18:13 20:45 WARSAW To Odesa Dep. Arr. 14:36 05:13 (on odd days) 22:45 06:39 21:13 09:57 11:31 10:27 21:20 19:08 21:19 13:31 19:24 13:31 23:55 10:18 07:15 13:31
Sixt Staroportofrankivska 55, tel. 715 57 04, www. sixt.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. VRC G-3, Bunina 16B, tel. 734 57 77, www.vrc.com. ua. Also at Odesa International Airport. Q Open 09:00
- 18:00.
VIP net Sadova 14, tel. 728 02 94. QOpen 00:00

- 24:00. 5Hr per hour.
Long-distance Buses
Central Bus Station Kolontaivska 58, tel. 721 63 54, fax 733 56 63, www.avodessa.com. QOpen 00:00
- 24:00.
The Odesa telephone code is +380 48 (482)

32
getting aroUnd
Domestic flight schedule
From Odesa Days Dep. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 08:25 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:35 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 19:10 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:40 1 2 3 4 5 07:00 Arr. 09:35 18:05 20:15 19:50 08:10 City KYIV (VV) KYIV (VV) KYIV (VV) KYIV (PS) KYIV (PS) To Odesa Days Dep. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 22:55 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:25 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:25 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:30 1 2 3 4 5 09:10 Arr. 22:05 15:35 11:35 22:40 10:25
shoPPing
Antiques
Anna F-2, Katerynynska 8/10, tel. 722 22 47. QOpen
11:00 - 15:00.
33
Collection E-3, Preobrazhenska 37, tel. 726 69 74/39 98 61. QOpen 11:00 - 15:00. Collectioner F-5, Velyka Arnautska 57, tel. 715 58 27. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Hobbi E-5, Panteleimonivska 126A, tel. 714 48 38. QOpen 09:30 - 17:30.
International flight schedule

From Odesa To Odesa Days Dep. Arr. City Days Dep. Arr. 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:15 16:50 BUDAPEST (MA) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:55 15:30 1 3 5 6 18:55 20:25 ISTANBUL (TK) 1 3 5 6 16:15 17:45 2 4 7 13:30 15:00 ISTANBUL (TK) 1 4 5 7 10:50 12:20 1 2 3 4 5 07:00 08:30 ISTANBUL (7D) 1 2 3 4 5 09:30 11:00 1 3 5 6 7 12:35 15:40 MOSCOW - Sheremetievo (VV) 1 3 5 6 7 16:45 17:55 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 13:00 16:00 MOSCOW - Domodedovo (UN) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 11:00 12:00 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:20 16:20 PRAGUE (OK) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 11:25 14:30 1 2 6 03:00 06:15 RIGA (BT) 1 5 7 23:25 02:30 +1 4 22:35 01:20 +1 TEL AVIV (VV) 4 18:10 21:05 3 01:00 03:35 TEL AVIV (ELY) 2 20:55 23:40 1 2 3 4 5 6 06:30 08:05 TIMISOARA (V) 1 2 3 4 5 6 15:00 16:30 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:00 16:00 VIENNA (PS) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 11:00 14:00 1 3 5 05:20 06:20 VIENNA (OS) 2 4 7 22:55 01:50 +1 1 2 4 5 6 7 14:25 15:20 WARSAW (LO) 1 2 4 5 6 7 10:55 13:45 6 20:45 00:55 +1 YEREVAN (U8) 6 18:45 19:10 Airline Codes: BT Air Baltic, ELY - EL AL Airlines, LO LOT Polish Airlines, MA Malev Hungarian Airlines, OK Czech Airlines,
OS Austrian Airlines, PS Ukrainian International Airlines, TK Turkish Airlines, UN Transaero, V Carpatair, VV AeroSvit, 7D Donbasaero, UN Transaero.
Books
Book Superstore F-3, Bunina 33, tel. 32 17 97. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Bukva F-2, Deribasivska 14, tel. 35 84 04/35 84 05. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. The book shop F-3, Preobrazhenska 17, tel. 711 73 05. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
Fashion
Castro F-3, Hretska 25, tel. 728 14 44. QOpen 10:00
- 20:00.
Athena Gallery
Souvenirs G-2, Pushkinska 1, tel. 42 93 84. QOpen

09:00 - 18:00. 10:00 - 24:00.
Naf Naf F-2, vul Deribasivska 21 (Europe Trade Centre), 2nd floor, tel. 37 93 42. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Pierre Cardin F-2, Deribasivska 21 (Europe Trade Centre), tel. 728 51 85. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. Polo Garage F-2, Katerynynska 14, tel. 32 19 89. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Tommy Hilfiger F-3, Katerynynska 20, tel. 715 03 83. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.
Surprise F-4, Rishelievska 38, tel. 731 46 39. QOpen
Perfume & Beauty

Alex Hors F-3, Hretska 35, tel. 33 54 67. Also at F-5, Panteleimonivska 25, tel. 39 27 50. QOpen 10:00
- 21:00.
Jewish Odesa
The Central Synagogue of Odesa F-4, Yevreiska
25. tel. 34 78 50. The Central Synagogue was constructed by architect P. Morandi in 1850. Its faade and interiors are a mix of Florentine and Romanesque. During the Soviet era, the synagogue was seized and used by the Odesa Pedagogical Institutes faculty of physical training. The prayer hall was transformed into a gym, and its height was halved by an intermediate floor. The arched lateral openings were blocked and classrooms were built in the balconies. In 1996, the synagogue was returned to Odesas Jewish community. Rosh Hashanah 1996 marked the first time in decades that Jewish people gathered within the synagogue. In the years that followed, the structure underwent profound reconstruction. A mikvah (a pool used for ritual purification) was introduced and a bimah (pulpit) was reinstalled. Quotidian prayers are currently held here, as well as festivals that attract hundreds of worshipers. The Central synagogue houses the office of Odesa Regions Chief Rabbi Shlomo Baksht, the Ohr Sameakh weekly newspaper and Ohr Sameakh TV. The library offers an impressive selection of books and films on Jewish culture, history and traditions. Regular seminars on Judaism are hosted in the library, and the knowledgeable English speaking staff is on hand to answer any inquiries. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat.
Flowers
7 Roses G-5, Deribasivska 12, apt. 25, tel. 741 17
18/741 17 20, www.7roses.com. Internet flower shop. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun. 10:00 - 18:30.
Brocard F-3, Deribasivska 21, tel. 728 51 90. Also at F-3, Hretska 26/28, tel. 722 14 73. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Jan G-3, Hretska 3/4, Athena Gallery, 1st floor, tel. 738 44 24. Also at F-3, Hretska 23, tel. 37 70 10. QOpen
11:00 - 21:00.
Artishok G-5, Pushkinska 57, tel. 728 64 02. QOpen
Photography
City Digital Centre F-2, Vitse-Admirala Zhukova prov. 3/7, tel. 777 11 85. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sun
10:00 - 20:00.
Flower gallery E-3, Preobrazhenska 25, tel. 729 48 58. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
Food & Drink

Obzhora() F-4,Troitska 33, tel. 725 84 97. Also at G-5, Kanatna 72, E-3, Lva Tolstoho 10.QOpen
08:00 - 23:00.
Paparazzi E-3, Novoselskoho 72, tel. 726 28 25. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Podorozhnik F-4, Rishelievska 33, tel. 32 02 46. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.
Robin-Bobin(-) G-3, Katerynynska 7, tel. 34 79 93. Also at G-5, Bazarna 32; F-5, Mala Arnautska 79.QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Silpo() I-7, Frantsuzkyi bulv. 16, tel. 728 90 01. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
Shopping Centres
Athena Gallery G-3, Hretska 3/4, tel. 738 44 00. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. Europe F-2, Deribasivska 21, tel. 728 19 29. QOpen
10:00 - 21:00.
Gifts and Souvenirs

Kaktus E-2, Bunina 42, tel. 37 94 85. Also at E-2,
Preobrazhenska 34 (Passage); F-5, Panteleimonivska 21 (Novyi Pryvoz).
Novyi Pryvoz F-5, Panteleimonivska 25, tel. 777 64 78. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Seredniofontanskyi G-7, Semafornyi prov. 4, tel. 722 49 28, www.city-mall.com.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. TsUM G-7, Pushkinska 72, tel. 725 71 46. QOpen
10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00.
Mozaika G-5, Pushkinska 62, tel. 722 27 90.QOpen

10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 19:00
34
direCtorY
Officials
City Council G-2, Dumska pl. 1, tel. 35 60 61. Ministry of Foreign Affairs H-6, Vidradna 3, tel.
729 68 48, fax 725 86 37, www.mfa.od.ua.
direCtorY
35
Foreign representatives
Bulgaria Posmitnoho 9, tel. 746 65 54/746 65 58,
fax 746 65 48. 10 45.
Georgia Lva Tolstoho 30, tel. 726 47 27, fax 726
Accounts & Consulting

European Business Association H-5, Velyka
Arnautska 15, office 154, tel./fax 738 68 37, www. eba.com.ua.
Greece E-2, Preobrazhenska 32, tel. 786 05 70/786

05 03, fax 746 05 71.
Beauty salons & Hairdressers

Aspazia E-2, Koblevska 45, tel. 42 92 91/35 92 04,
www.aspazia.com.ua. This weekend spa offers an exquisite opportunity to rejuvenate mind, body and soul. The interiors soft pastels, flowing light, aromatic candles and melodic music set a supernatural and relaxing tone. All spa amenities are available, and patrons rave that after just one session the skin becomes unusually soft and supple. This place actually has a medical license, testifying to its high level of professionalism. After a brief consultation, a doctor will recommend proper procedures and techniques to sooth your ills and set you on the path to health, beauty and psychological balance. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Vodolaz E-1, Prymorska 34, tel. 34 47 00, www.

vodolaz.com.ua.
China tel. 787 17 89/787 18 98, fax 737 30 31. Italy F-2, Katerynynska pl. 3, ap. 3, tel./fax 37 69 80,
tel. 728 71 33. 56 64.
Informall E-2, Preobrazhenska 34, office 426, tel./fax

728 55 22, www.informall.biz.
Fitness clubs
Osa F-4, Palubna 9/4, tel. 33 66 33. QOpen 00:00
- 24:00. AD Formula G-2, prov. Chaikovskoho 12, tel. 728 99 20/728 99 22, www.formula-wellness.com. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Sat 08:00 - 23:00, Sun 09:00 - 21:00. Maximus Prymorska 6, Odesa Hotel, tel. 777 70 90, www.maximus.com.ua. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. Sat, Sun 08:00 - 23:00. Strekoza E-4, Bazarna 63, tel. 34 59 95. Also at: Lidersovskyi bulv. 9A, tel. 32 41 01. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00, Sat 08:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. A
Kazakhstan Rozkydailivska 13, tel. 731 19 19/34 Latvia F-4, Uspenska 75, office 4, tel. 49 53 33. Moldova Posmitnoho 2, tel. 33 33 94/33 38 96. Pakistan Olgiivska 27, tel. 35 65 12/35 65 13, fax
37 85 42.
Interconsult H-5, Velyka Arnautska 2A, office 111, tel./fax 738 64 53, interconsult@inbox.ru. Q Open
09:30 - 18:30.
Triada F-3, Vitze-Admirala Zhukova 3-7, office 12, tel.

728 74 18, www.auditor.od.ua.
Vidanta E-3, Soborna pl. 6, office 2, tel./fax 726 89 12,

tel. 726 64 15, www.vidanta.net.
Poland H-4, Uspenska 2/1, tel. 729 44 13/729 39

36, fax 717 71 33. 32.
Art-8 F-2, prov. Maiakovskoho 8, tel. 723 23 29. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Classico F-4, Zhukovskoho 8, tel. 777 25 00. QOpen
10:00 - 20:00.
Banks
OTP Bank G-3, Bunina 10, tel. 30 53 50, www.otpbank.
com.ua/enb.
Romania G-5, Bazarna 31, tel. 724 23 24/724 05 Russia Gagarynske Plato 14, tel. 784 15 44, fax 784
15 46.
FreeZett F-1, Preobrazhenska 2, tel. 760 19 10. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. La Rose F-4, Katerynynska 59, tel. 716 57 50. QOpen
09:00 - 21:00.
Tennis courts
Chernomorets H-6, Vitse-Admirala Azarova 1, tel. 712 30 00. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00. Admission $19-24
per hour.
Raiffeisen Bank Aval G-5, Velyka Arnautska 20, tel.

39 20 00, fax 39 20 60, www.aval.ua. www.swedbank.ua.
Turkey I-4, Lidersovskyi bulv. 3, tel. 722 79 11, fax

722 14 78.
Swedbank F-5, Mala Arnautska 71, tel. 777 88 93, UniCredit Semafornyi prov. 4, tel. 8 800 508 00 50,
www.unicredit.com.ua.
24-hour pharmacies
AKS F-5, Panteleimonivska 70, tel. 49 67 41. Apteka Gaievskoho E-2, Sadova 21, tel. 722 24 08,
www.aptekagaevskogo.od.ua.
Maramax G-2, Prymorskyi bulv. 11, Londonska Hotel, tel. 777 88 82. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Mozart G-2, Lanzheronivska 13, tel. 32 22 22. QOpen
10:00 - 19:00.
Lawn-Tennis Frantsuzkyi bulv. 85, tel. 780 01 00. A cour t cost from 100Hr/hour. Q Open 07:00 - 23:00
AFLKDC Prestige I-7, Drugyi Lermontovskyi prov. 1, corp. 1, tel. 746 03 25. Also at Zatonskoho 30, Akademika Koroliova 88. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.
Lawyers
Comersant Nechyporenka 12, tel. 722 19 06/725 58
97, fax 777 96 95, office@comersant.com.ua, www. comersant.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Avitsena E-2, Pastera 50, tel. 777 74 86. Help E-4, Preobrazhenska 72, tel. 728 21 77.
Billiards
Odin G-3, Polska 12, tel. 777 74 70, www.odin.com.ua. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. Admission 50Hr per hour Pyramid F-3, Oleksandrivskyi prosp. 10, tel. 34 48 18. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
Health
Kuyalnik Resort Kuyalnik Liman, tel. 751 51 13,
fax 751 51 32, kuyalnik@ukr.net. Located on the coast 13 kilometres from the city centre, Kuyalniks sulphide silt mud is world renowned for its medicinal properties. Established in 1833, this is the oldest mud resort in Ukraine. Also, Kuyalnik mineral water has been proven to improve gastrointestinal function.
Dry cleaners & laundries

Boellen E-1, Torhova 19, tel. 34 84 89/49 60 60. QOpen 08:30 - 19:30.
vul. Preobrazhenska 48, tel. 777 77 52; vul. Rozkydailivska 3, tel. 777 75 26. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
International Law Offices I-5, Observatornyi prov.

2/4, office 57, tel. 715 58 55, fax 49 69 25, www. murs.com.ua/en.
Bowling
7 zirok (7 stars) G-3, Polskyi Uzviz 15, tel. 37 14 14, www.club-yo.od.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 05:00. One hour of
bowling cost 120-180Hr per hour. A
Odeska G-5, Pushkinska 45, tel. 777 75 24. Also at
Zharikov & Sinichenko H-5, Velyka Arnautska 2A,
office 109, tel. 730 52 80/730 53 70, advo@te.net.ua, www.advokats.com.ua/eng.
Mexico Akademika Glushko 16, tel. 746 25 39. QOpen

12:00 - 23:30. Admission 69-150Hr per hour. A
Translators
LBV Translation Company F-2, Lanzheronivska 28,
tel. 743 47 91, fax 726 64 13, www.translators.od.ua. Also at Zhukovskoho 36, tel./fax 722 93 68. Q Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Private clinics
Oxford Medical G-3, Polska 12, tel. 725 55 00/784 01 04, www.oxford-med.com. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00. V.I.P. Centre E-4, Tyraspolska 16, office 27, tel. 725
50 91/726 18 00.
Diving
Poseidon G-1, Prymorska 6, See Port Passenger Terminal, tel. 729 39 44, www.diveport.odessa.net.
Underwater Technologies Lab F-6, Vodoprovidna 1,

office 9, tel. 795 85 54, www.divingwreck.com.
street register & index

Admirala Lazareva vul. E-6 Bazarna vul. E/G-4, G/H-5 Bielinskoho vul. H-4/7 Bohdana Khmelnytskoho vul. E-5 Bolharska vul. E-6 Bunina vul. E/H-3 Chaikovskoho prov. F/G-2 Chekhova prov. F-7 Chervonyi prov. F-3 Chornomorska vul. I-4/6 Dohtiarna vul. E-4 Derebasivska vul. E/G-2 Devoranivskyi Uzviz G-2/3 Druhyi Vodoprovidnyi prov. E/F-7 Dryhyi Kulykovskyi prov. G-7 Dumska pl. G-2 Dvorianska vul. E-2 Dytiacha aleya H-4 Frantsuzkyi bulv. H-6/7, I-7 Havanna vul. F-2 Henerala Vatutina vul. E-6 Himnazychna vul. G-5/6 Hoholia vul. F-1/2 Holovna aleya I-4 Hospitalnyi prov. H-6, I-7 Hretska pl. F-3 Hretska vul. E/H-3 Italiiskyi bulv. F/H-6 Kanatna vul. H-2/4, G-4/7 Kanatnyi prov. H-5 Karantynna vul. G-4 Karantynnyi Uzviz G-2/3, H-3 4 Bolgariana 14 35 7 zirok Air Baltic 31 34 AKS Alexander Pushkins Museum 28 33 Alex Hors Alladin 22 9 Alliance Franaise Alvona 27 Alyie Parusa 18 30 Angar 18 Anna 33 34 Apteka Gaievskoho Arabian Culture Centre 9 Archeological Museum 28 18 Arina Arkadia Plaza 10 Art-8 35 Artishok 33 Athena Gallery 33 Austrian Airlines 31 Avis 31 Avitsena 34 Ayvazovsky 12 Azart Sport Caf #1 24 Bagration 16 Balalaika 17 Baskin Robins 22 Bavarian House 9 Beeline 30 Biscuit 22 Bleschunov Municipal Museum of Personal Collection 28 Blues Bar Dykyi Z 24 Boellen 34 Book Superstore 33 Boulevard 14 British Council 9 Brocard 33 Bukva 33 Bulgarian Culture Centre 9 Captain Morgan 25 Carpatair 31 Casa Nova 16 Castro 33 Central Bus Station 31 Central Post Office 30 Chas Pik 15 Chernomorets 35 Chervonyi Lobster 18 Chorne More 12 Cinema City 9 Citrus 22 City Council 34 Kataieva prov. G-7 Katerynynska pl. F-2 Katerynynska vul. F-2/6 Kinna vul. E-1 Kniazivska vul. E-1 Knyzhkovyi prov. E-5 Koblevska vul. E-2 Kovalska vul. E-4 Kuibysheva vul. E/F-5 Kulykove Pole pl. G-6 Lva Tolstoho vul. E-3 Lanzheronivska vul. F/G-2 Leitenanta Shmidta vul. G-5/6 Lermontovskyi prov. H/I-5 Liapunova prov. E-1 Lidersivskyi bulv. I-4/5, H-5 Maiakovskoho prov. F-1 Mala Arnautska vul. E/H-5 Marazliievska vul. H-3/5 Mariinska vul. H-6 Morska vul. I-6 Mukachevskyi prov. H/I-6 Myasoedovska vul. E-6 Mytna pl. G-2 Nakhimova prov. H-3 Nechypurenka prov. F-3/4 Nekrasova prov. F-1 Nizhynska vul. E-3 Nova vul. H-5 Novoschipnyi Riad E/F-6 Observatornyi prov. I-4/5 Oleksandra Matrosova prov. G/H-7 Oleksandrivskyi prosp. F-3/4, E/F-5 Onilovoi prov. F-4/5 Orlykova prov. G-6 Osypova vul. G-4/5 Panteleimonivska E/G-5, G/H-6 Pastera vul. E-1/2 Pershyi Vodoprovidnyi prov. F-7 Polska vul. G-3/4 Polskyi Uzviz G-2/3 Preobrazhenska vul. E-1/5 Prymorska vul. F-1 Prymorskyi bulv. F-1, G-1/2 Pryvozna vul. E/F-5 Pushkinska vul. G-2/5 Pyrohovska vul. G-6/7, H-7 Pyrohovskyi prov. H-7 Rishelievska vul. F-3/5, G-2/3 Sabaneiv Mist F-2 Sadova vul. E-2 Schepkina vul. E-1/2 Schepnyi prov. vul. E-4 Seminarska vul. G/H-7 Serednofontanska vul. F-7 Shevchenko prosp. H-7 Shtabnyi prov. G-6 Shukhevycha prov. F-3/4 Soborna pl. E-3 Sofiiska vul. E-1 Sportyvnyi prov. I-7 Spyrydonivska vul. E-3 Staroportofrankivska vul. E-5 Starosinna pl. F-6 Starosinna vul. Suvorovska aleya Torhova vul. Tretiy Vodoprovidnyi prov. Troitska vul. Tyraspolska pl. Tyraspolska vul. Udilnyi prov. Uiutna vul. Uspenska vul. Uspenskyi prov. Utosova vul. Velyka Arnautska vul. Vidradna vul. Viiskovyi Uzviz Viry Inber vul. Viry Kholodnoi pl. Vitse-Admirala Azarova vul. Vitse-Admirala Zhukova vul. Vodoprovidna vul. Volzkyi prov. Vorontsovskyi prov. Voznesenskyi prov. Vysokyi prov. Yamchytskoho prov. Yasna vul. Yelysavethradskyi prov. Yevreiska vul. Yuriia Oleshi vul. Zaslavskoho vul. Zhukovskoho vul. F-6 H/I-3 E-1 E/F-7 E/H-4 E-3 E-3/4 H/I-7 I-6 E/H-4 E-4/5 E-4 E/H-5 H-6 F-1/2 I-5 F-3 H/I-6 F-2/3 E-7, F-6 F-6/7 F-1/2 F-6/7 E-7 G-6 H-6 F-7 F/G-4 G-3 E-4/5 E/H-3
39
Slovians'k Lozova Kramators'k Stakhanov Luhans'k Pavlohrad Kostyantynivka Alchevs'k Horlivka Krasnyi Dnipropetrovs'k Luch Yenakiieve Shakhty Donets'k Makiyivka
Novocherkassk
Rostov
naDonu
50
FEDERATION
45
Taganrog
Mariupol'
Berdyans'k
SEA OF AZOV
Krasnodar Novorossiysk
K er
c he
UKRAINE
RUSSIAN
Starobil'sk
40
Kuban'
k ns
35 RUSSIAN FEDERATION
Belgorod
Kharkiv
Izyum
Kerch
Zaporizhzhia
Melitopol
Feodosiya
Kursk
Pr
o li
Marhanets'
E A
Yalta Sevastopol
AUTONOMOUS REP. OF CRIMEA
Simferopol
Kremenchuk
Dniprodzerzhyns'k
Nova Kakhovka
Kryvyi Rih
Nikopol
Kahovske Vdskh.
Sumy
a ok Z at Dzhankoy K arkinists'ka
Romny
Poltava
Shostka
Konotop
Kherson
Yevpatoriya
Zhovti Vody
Kremenchuts'ke Vdskh.
35
Pryluky
Lubny
Chernihiv
Smila
Kirovohrad
o Cherkasy
Brovary
Dn
Homyel'
Uman
Pervomays'k
Odesa
Mykolayiv
Nizhyn
Chornobyl' Korosten'
Mouths of the Danube
Bila Tserkva
Kyiv
30
B L
pr
Piv d
u country maph .B
Chisinau
Vinnytsia
B E L A R U S
Kamianets'Podil's'kyi
Zhytomyr
Novohrad Volyns'kyi
Berdychiv
P r ipy
Dn ist e
b Danu
Rivne
Ternopil' R P Drohobych Stryi A T Khmel'nyts'kyi H SLOVAKIA IA N Kalush IvanoFrankivs'k
Pinsk
Chernivtsi
National capital Capital of Autonomous Republic of Crimea and oblast' centre City, town Airport International boundary Autonomous Republic of Crimea and oblast' boundary Road Railroad
VOLYNS'KA
Kolomyya
Kovel
Luts'k
ZAKARPATS'KA OBLAST'
L'viv
Mukacheve
200
P O L A N D
Lublin
Warsaw
Przemysl ?
100
HUNGARY
a i sl
CA
50
50
45
50
n Sa
Uzhhorod
150
100
25
UKRAINE
Brest
150
250
TA
IN
Oblast names are the same as their respective centres except were labelled.
OBLAST'
25
300 km
200 mi
et Sir
Varna
Iasi
BULGARIA
Bati
Galati Braila
F . O EP
DO VA M O LPrut
a ts'
Reni
Constanta
Izmayil
30
Vorskla
Su la
City Digital Centre 33 18 City Time Classico 35 33 Collection Collectioner 33 Comersant 34 18 Compot Continental 10 14 Corvin Czech Airlines 31 D8 30 14 Delovaya Kolbasa Deribasivska 26 30 DHL Diligence 27 Diysno Dobre Pyvo 24 24 Dobre Pyvo Dolphinarium 27 Donbassaero 31 Don Quixote 18 EL AL Israel Airlines 31 Estrelita 17 Europarty Club 25 Europcar 31 Europe 33 European Business Association 34 Fanconi 1872 22 Fashion Caf IT 22 Fat Mozes 22 Fiji 17 Filiki Etheria 28 Fine Art Museum 28 Flamant 14 Flower gallery 33 Formula 35 Frapolli 12 Gallery 18 Gallery Rosa Caf and Art Salon 22 Gallo Caf 22 Gambrinus 24 Gapchinska Gallery 9 Glasgow 24 Golden Child Sculpture 26 Golden Duke 9 Grand Caf 15 Greek Culture Foundation 9 Hali Gali 25 Help 34 Hertz 31 Hillel Jewish Culture Centre 9 Hobbi 33 House with Telamons 26 Ibiza 25 Informall 34
Interconsult 34 International Law Offices 34 Intertelecom 30 35 Iryda Jan 33 Kaktus 33 18 Khutorok u Morya Kiy Avia 31 24 Klondike Kontrabas Art-Caf 9 Kumanets 18 30 KyivStar GSM La Rose 35 35 Laun-Tennis La Veranda 16 LBV Translation Company 34 12 Lermontovskiy Life 30 Literature Museum 28 London 10, 16 Londons'ka 10 Love Caf 22 Lustdorf 15 Malev Hungrian Airlines 31 Maner 23 Maramax 35 Mario's Pizza 17 Maritime Art Gallery 9 Maski 9 Maximus 35 Mexico 35 Mickey O'Neil's Irish Pub 24 Mimino 16 Ministry of Foreign Affairs 34 Morskoy 10 Mozaika 33 Mozart 12, 35 MTS 30 Museum of Waxwork 29 Musical Drama Theatre 9 Muzkomedia 9 Naf Naf 33 Napoleon 22 Novyi Pryvoz 33 NT-Art 9 Numismatics Museum 29 Obzhora 33 Octyabrskaya 12 Odes'ka 34 Odesa 12 Odesa Holovna Train Station 31 Odesa Jewish Community 9 Odesa Music Comedy Theatre 9 Odesa Russian Drama
Theatre 9 Odesa Sea Port Tourist Bureau 27 13 Odessa Apartments Odin 15, 35 Oniks 15 Opera and Ballet Theatre 9 Oreshek 24 35 Osa OTP Bank 34 Otrada 12 34 Oxford Medical Palladium 12 16 Papa Costa Paparazzi 23, 33 Paradnaya No 1 23 13, 26 Passage Pecheskago 16 Philharmonic 9 Pierre Cardin 33 Pivnaya Bochka 24 Pobeda Art-Caf 9 Podorozhnik 33 Polish Airlines 31 Polo Garage 33 Porto 17 Poseidon 35 Potomkinski Skhody 26 Prestige 35 Pulcinella 17 Puzata Hata 16 Pyramid 35 Raiffeisen Bank Aval 34 Regional History Museum 29 Robin-Bobin 33 Rodina 9 Sady Pobedy 9 Sakhar 23 Salieri Art Caf 9 Scientists Palace 26 Sea Port Museum 29 Sea Terminal 26 Seredniofontans'kyi 33 Sherlock 23 Shyko 23 Siesta Dali 23 Silpo 33 Simge 23 Sixt 31 Skiper Pub 24 Slavyanka Tours 27 Smile 30 Souvenirs 33 Statue of Jos de Ribas 26 Statue of the Duc de Richelieu 27
Steakhouse: Meat and Wine 17 Strekoza 27, 35 30 Submarine Surprise 33 Swedbank 34 31 Tavrey Airlines Tequila House 17 27 Teschin Mist The book shop 33 The Central Synagogue 32 26 The City Garden TNT 30 14 Tokyo House Tommy Hilfiger 33 Top Sandwich 23 34 Triada Triton 9 Troubadour Belgian Beer Caf 23 Trum Tavern-Club 16 Tsentralnyi 13 TsUM 33 Turkish Airlines 31 UkraineFare Ukraine International Airlines 31 Ukrains'ka Lasunka 18 Underwater Technologies Lab 35 UniCredit 34 UPS 30 Utel 30 Utochkino 9 V.I.P Centre . 34 Vechirnia Odesa 25 Veselyi Roger 25 Vidanta 34 VIP net 30 Vis--Vis 15 Vodolaz 35 Vorontsovskyi Palace 27 Voyage 17 VRC 31 Wasser Maltz Biergarten 16, 25 Western and Eastern Art Museum 28 White Moon 9 Yakitoriya 14 Yatlo Gallery 9 YO Club 25 Yokohama 14 Zara Pizzara 17 Zharikov & Sinichenko 34 Zharu-Paru 16
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Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps

Odesa welcomes you!

Exploring South Palmira

Odesa In Your Pockets second edition

Culture & Events

Odesa Funicular. A free ride down

Trust In Your Pocket

Dining & Nightlife

Essential Odesa Museums

Maps & Index

July - September 2009

Odesa welcomes you!

Odesa In Your Pocket

July - September 2009

Odesa vs. Odessa

Trams, Trolleybuses and Buses

Microbuses and minivans

July - September 2009

CULtUre & eVents

Greek Culture Foundation F-3, Chervonyi prov. 20,

Odesa Music Comedy Theatre H-6, Panteleimonivska

Rodina E-5, Mechnikova 104, tel. 37 17 17. Q Tickets 18 - 50Hr.

Opera and Ballet Theatre G-2, prov. Chaikovskoho

Philharmonic Bunina 15, tel. 725 15 36. Q Tickets

Sady Pobedy (Victory Gardens) pl. 10 Aprelia, tel.

Official exchange rates (as of July 8): 1 10.69Hr US$1 7.63Hr

Bulgarian Culture Centre F-3, Vitse-Admirala Zhukova odesa.inyourpocket.com

Odesa In Your Pocket

July - September 2009

Cream of the Crop

London E-4, Uspenska 95, tel./fax 784 08 98, info@

Londonska G-2, Prymorskyi bulv. 11, tel. 738 01

Continental G-3, Deribasivska 5, tel. 786 03 99, fax

Morskoy Kryshtalevyi prov. 1/1, tel. 33 90 90/33 90

1 =10.69Hr; US$1 = 7.63Hr (8 July 2009 official rates)

July - September 2009

Chorne More (Black Sea) F-5, Rishelievska 59, tel.

Odesa G-1, Prymorska 6A, tel. 729 48 08, fax 729

Tsentralnyi (Central) E-3, Preobrazhenska 40, tel. 36

Palladium G-6, Italiiskyi bulv. 4, tel. 728 77 30, fax

Octyabrskaya H-4, Kanatna 31, tel. 728 88 63, fax

Odesa In Your Pocket

July - September 2009

Vis--Vis F-2, Deribasivska 15, tel. 777 02 03. This

Oniks E-1, Sofiivska 23, tel. 34 46 40. Words like vogue

Corvin F-2, Lanzheronivska 17, tel. 35 70 37/35 88 00.

Tokyo House G-3, Rishelievska 11, tel. 784 88 48.

Odin G-3, Polskyi Uzviz 12, tel. 777 09 89/777 74

Yakitoriya F-4, Rishelievska 27, tel. 36 47 80, www.

Delovaya Kolbasa F-2, Katerynynska 8/10, tel. 726

Yokohama F-2, Deribasivska 26, tel. 35 66 00,

Flamant F-3, Zhukovskoho 31, tel. 785 20 73. Im

Odesa In Your Pocket

July - September 2009

Pulcinella F-2, Lanzheronivska 17, tel. 777 30 10/777

Puzata Khata F-2, Deribasivska 21. Albeit a low

Voyage G-3, Deribasivska 5, Continental Hotel,tel. 786

Tequila House F-5, Mala Arnautska 69, tel. 33 93 22.

Zharu-Paru F-3, Hretska 45, tel. 726 75 33. If you

Trium Tavern-Club I-5, Lidersovskyi bulv. 17/2, tel.

Zara Pizzara G-3, Deribasivska 5, tel. 728 88 88. Zaras

Porto F-3, Zhukovskoho 33, tel. 737 38 38. Porto prides

Wasser Maltz Biergarten F-2, Havanna 6, tel. 777 88