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Market Manila

28 Feb2006

Lasang Pinoy 7 Ensaimada Part II (e Recipe!)


by Marketman

When I am not having a brilliant classic pinoy breakfast of tuyo, tinapa, tapa, tocino or lamayo with rice and fried eggs, I happily turn to a freshly baked ensaimada served with extra butter and superb homemade jam. Imagine rising early one cool morning, heading out to the garden, greeting your attention decient labrador good morning and sitting down to the breakfast setting in the photo above it doesnt get much better than that! Add a nice ripe cebu mango, a hot cup of tea and I am in a much better frame of mind to tackle the trials of the day e following ensaimada recipe is based almost entirely on the one provided by my sister. However, I have changed some of the measurements due to the quality of our in Manila and the humidity and temperature while baking here. I have baked it 6-7 times and still havent perfected it. You may have to practice a few times until you achieve the kind of ensaimada you prefer so this recipe is only a guideline, to be adjusted to ones frame of reference and the quality of ingredients in your neck of the woods. Do not take shortcuts, look at the process as part of the grand journey to ensaimada nirvana. And if you like the u y commercial types ensaimadasSTOP reading this of

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Market Manila - Lasang Pinoy 7 Ensaimada Part II (e Recipe!) -...

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post now, you will be sorely disappointed. is recipe should yield an ensaimada with some heft, yet light and avorful. It will have a crusty browned exterior, not the soft blond mush that is zippedeemelt or other mall sourced concoctions A cross-section of the bread should show layers of dough, bubble spots for trapped air and butter it shouldnt slice like a light cake. Lavadora or Sponge 3.5 cups lukewarm water 1 tablespoon yeast 6 cups unsifted bread our In a large bowl, dissolve yeast in water and wait a minute or two to make sure the yeast is alive (it should bubble a bit). Make sure you use fresh yeast or you will have made a fatal error. Add our and beat for 5 min until you have a heavy batter. Cover with a damp kitchen towel and allow to rise at room temperature for 1.5 to 2 hours. Use the shorter time in warmer climates, longer time in cool dry climates. It will rise and fall, thats okay. Even better, if you are in a hot climate, you can refrigerate this for 3-4 hours, but do not freeze, yeast is a living thing. A sponge is necessary so as to give the yeast a chance to produce lactic acids and expand before the addition of other ingredients. At Lolas bakery, the lavadora was made by the previous shift and was anywhere from 6-8 hours old. Any bread recipe that eliminates this step will not produce excellent bread. Another traditional way to increase gluten and lactic acids is to use a piece of raw dough (10-20 % by weight) from the previous days batch added during the kneading process. Its okay to go to the movies or iron your laundry, one doesnt have to spend time with the sponge to make it happy. Marketman prefers the refrigerator version for about 3.5 hours or so. Dough After the lavadora has risen and fallen, add the following: 1 1/2 c. fresh egg yolks (since eggs vary in size it is best to measure, about 18-20 egg yolks) 1 1/4 c. sugar (you can go up to 1.5 cups if you want it a tad sweeter) And mix gently until incorporated. Gradually add 6 cups more of unsifted bread our and 1 tablespoon of salt and mix some more. Do not reduce salt or the bread will taste at. Salt also tempers the rise of the yeast which is why it is added later rather than earlier. Only experience and feeling the dough will tell you when you have added enough our. Do not be tempted to add a lot more our because you will end up with a hard and dry ensaimada. Marketmans rst attempt had a REALLY soft dough that seemed to grow in front of our eyes I had too much yeast and too little our! e dough should be soft and malleable not hard and dry-ish. Beat for 5 minutes with a dough hook (best if you have a heavy duty Kitchen Aid or similar mixer, otherwise, you are in for some serious kneading) or knead with your hands on a clean counter or in a large basin. Now add 1 cup of soft unsalted butter, or lard or margarine, or a combination thereof, if that is your preference. Knead butter into the dough. Dough will be very sticky and soft, let it rest for 10 -15 minutes, as this will
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Market Manila - Lasang Pinoy 7 Ensaimada Part II (e Recipe!) -...

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make it easier to knead. e dough will gradually become very elastic and satin smooth after 5 more minutes of kneading. Knead on a greased surface if your mixer starts to complain or overheat. Drizzle with 1/2 c. corn oil and knead another couple of minutes until you have a smooth ball. Grease a large bowl and place the dough in it, it should ll the bowl less than half full. Cover with a clean damp cloth and allow to rise at 70 F for 2 hours or until double in bulk. In a hot kitchen, it will double in 1 hour. You may want to refrigerate for 2 hours, it will make the dough behave better when you shape the rolls. Refrain from placing the dough in a warm oven, with the pilot light on, as some who are impatient are tempted to do. A slow rise results in a better roll. Marketman prefers a 2-2.5 hour rise in the refrigerator as the dough is easier to handle afterwards It sounds counter-intuitive that the dough would rise in the fridge but it does. Best way to make pizza dough too.

Punch down the dough and divide into 36 pieces, approximately 4 oz each or about 3/4 cup in size. Have 1 1/2 cup very soft butter or lard ready for spreading. Line up pieces on a greased surface. Take one piece and roll it out with a rolling pin until 1/8 thin. Spread with 1/2 tbsp. butter. Pull edges gently with your ngers and stretch to a very thin large triangle, dont worry about holes, practice will eliminate the problem. Roll up starting with the wide edge or end; it should be about 12 long. Coil inside a mun pan or coil on a foil lined cookie sheet, tucking end under. You can also twist 2 together for a larger, braided look. Place ensaimadas 3 apart on a cookie sheet. Or ll a greased mun or ensaimada pan half full. Marketman had problems with the twist. I am certain it is a girl thing (and I dont mean that badly, I just cant get it) and I had trouble twisting and tucking but that was simply an issue of aesthetics, it didnt aect the taste. Allow ensaimadas to rise again at room temperature until double in bulk, about 1-2 hours depending on the temperature of the room. Watch carefully after 1 hr. Ensaimadas are ready to bake when they are double in bulk. ey will rise further in the oven. Do not allow them to over rise and deate or you will have ensaimadas with a fermented avor. Beat 1 egg lightly and brush tops gently before baking. Bake in a preheated 375 to 400 F oven on the center rack until golden brown in color, about 12-15 min for mun size and

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Market Manila - Lasang Pinoy 7 Ensaimada Part II (e Recipe!) -...

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15-20 min for braided ones. I prefer it darker in order to caramelize some of the sugars in the crust. Remove and cool. After it has cooled gently brush with 1/2 c. more butter and sprinkle generously with sugar. Wrap each one in parchment or wax paper. If you want to freeze them do not butter and sugar before freezing, do so after defrosting. If you want grated cheese on top you can sprinkle it generously with grated Queso de Bola (or aged edam if you are elsewhere). Makes 36 mun sized singles or 18 large braided ensaimadas. Ingredients Notes: YEAST Use the freshest yeast you can nd. Best to go out and buy a fresh can or pack as the cost is miniscule relative to the other ingredients in this recipe. Do not use RapidRise yeast as that is primarily for bread machines, not slow rising recipes like this one. More common granular yeast or yeast cakes would do well. FLOUR I thought I was brilliant in that I found hard wheat our at a bakery supply store. However, I nd all ours in the Philippines to be less ideal than say American bread our. I am not sure if Philippine our is adulterated with cassava or other ingredients but I nd that I had to use more local our to approximate the recipe made with imported bread our. e our and its volume is critical to this recipe. My sister sent two bags of Bread Flour from NY and this recipe worked brilliantly. BUTTER My sister uses unsalted French or European style butter (Plugra, I think) that is utterly brilliant. Use the best unsalted butter you can nd. I use imported with the main advantage being a lower water content, I think. Using Star margarine or lard will have noticeably dierent taste results but use what makes you happy, I guess. Total butter or lard needed in this recipe is approximately 2.5-3.0 lbs or close to 1.5 kilo. For the topping, you can whip the butter slightly for a lighter touch. EGGS I use the nest organic eggs I can nd in Manila. At PHP8 a piece they are expensive but the yolks are a brilliant orange yellow. e whites have viscosity and look like they should. Use the best eggs you can aord. I use roughly 19 egg yolks in my recipe. SUGAR While I use regular granulated sugar for the bread itself, I nd that using caster sugar (ner grind) for the topping is nicer. Many times I dont put cheese, but denitely add lots of good butter on top. VARIATIONS: RAISINS Soak 1 pound of raisins in 1/2 cup rum or warm water in a bottle for a couple of hours. Drain any liquid not absorbed. After buttering each rolled out piece sprinkle with 1 tbsp raisins and then roll up and coil HAM -Use julienned ne pieces of country ham instead of raisens. Marketman tried this variation and it was really delicious. Use good ham. PHEW! at took a while. Good luck folks and happy

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Market Manila - Lasang Pinoy 7 Ensaimada Part II (e Recipe!) -...

http://www.marketmanila.com/archives/lasang-pinoy-7-ensaimada-p...

baking! And a disclaimer, if you fail miserably please do not blame it on usyou just have to keep at it till you get it right. CLUE # 9 : If you have mastered a classic ensaimada, what else is there to do to go to Florence and buy some shoes???

POSTED IN: General, Rant & Rave, Recipes and Menus

COMMENTS:
1. Lei, says: To MM and his very generous Sister, ank you for sharing a recipe that means so much to your family. Ill try my darn best to do justice to your generosity, and I hope I end up with something that looks like ensaimada at the very least on my very rst try =). Feb 28, 2006 | 10:33 pm

2. eat matters, says: hi MM, thanks for the recipe. will try it this weekend with some adjustments perhaps because of the humidity factor. i will be baking fron a very dry environment. none the less its gonna be an enjoyable weekend challenge. Feb 28, 2006 | 11:12 pm

3. Jean, says: Awesome. anks MM! :) Im going to give this recipe a try. Feb 28, 2006 | 11:38 pm

4. sha, says: what a homework I know I just have to play with the our too because we use a dierent kind here. but I look forward baking using yr lolas recipe. I will let you know and certainly wont blame you

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Market Manila - Lasang Pinoy 7 Ensaimada Part II (e Recipe!) -...

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i just blame the oven ;-) Feb 28, 2006 | 11:44 pm

5. mita, says: cant wait to try this..the lavadora sounds almost like the starter dough for sourdough bread. ive been looking around for a good ensaymada recipe online for years but nothing enticed me enough to actually get me started. the ensaymada recipe ive always heard from my mom (which she never made herself ) was one with lots of eggs and plenty of european butter kneaded into the dough (same as your recipe), on a marble slab, which someone in the family used to make but the recipe was never written down and no one else attempted to recreate. your recipe is IT no other will do..Im trying it really soon. thank you very much for sharing your familys recipe. Mar 1, 2006 | 12:54 am

6. sister, says: Ensaimada Clinic: If you have added too much our to the dough before kneading it,and it feels too dense, simply sprinkle with a tablespoon or more of water and knead that in. e addition of fat, be it butter, lard or margarine, will make it more malleable as well. If your grocery carries fresh cakes of yeast, it is the best choice, one oz. cake will be adequate for this recipe. In the USA Land OLakes butter is readily available and consistent in water content.Plugra, European style butter made in Vermont is excellent, as well as Beurre Marie, available from Paris Gourmet. Gold Medal or Pillsbury Bread our works very well. A girl thing indeed! I take umbrage Bread bakers are predominantly men, ease in shaping merely requires practice. Hold the fat end of the rope with your thumb and forenger , coil the rest and tuck the end under.Make sure your ensaimad has risen adequately, double in bulk or even a little more, before baking, otherwise you will have a heavy dense product. And patience, please. You cannot hurry this recipe. go read a book, take a nap, etc. in between the risings. Im out here in case you have any questions. Mar 1, 2006 | 1:28 am

7. Jean, says: MM, wish you had posted this weeks ago. Couldve made this for my sons presentation in his french

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Market Manila - Lasang Pinoy 7 Ensaimada Part II (e Recipe!) -...

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class. Mar 1, 2006 | 1:50 am

8. millet, says: successful or not, dont forget to drink the rum in which the raisins were soaked! or add it to your coee when you sit down to savor your creation. thanks, MM,,looks like im in for a whole days work. patience is a virtue, and the reward ismmmmm, can almost smell it. can already hear my fork breaking through that tender, sugared, cheese-dusted crust Mar 1, 2006 | 7:41 am

9. Marilou, says: ank you! ank you! ank you! My father always speaks longingly about the ensaimada of his youth and the way he describes it sounds exactly like your ensaimada. I am the designated family baker and this has eluded me for a long time. I cant wait to surprise him. anks again for being so generous with your recipe. Mar 1, 2006 | 9:35 am

10. joey, says: e wait was de nitely worth it! ank you MM and sister for this wonderful recipe! I am itching to try it but a little nervous toobut hey, the ones that make you nervous are usually the best ones to try (and this is not just true for recipes!) :) MM, where do you buy your fresh yeast? anks for a fantastic LP 7 entry! Mar 1, 2006 | 9:49 am

11. Lei, says: Sister, Before anything, feels weird addressing you as if I am family, but thinking about it, you and MM have really opened your doors to welcome us and educate us in this very special recipe. Id just like to clarify on the yeast, I am not knowledgeable on the dierent forms of yeast. Are you referring to the instant powderered yeast? Or is this totally something else? Can you recommend some brands? Probably MM can help in giving brands that are available in the markets here. I am

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Market Manila - Lasang Pinoy 7 Ensaimada Part II (e Recipe!) -...

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really not that familiar so any tip will be highly appreciated. Again thanks to all your help. Good day! Mar 1, 2006 | 10:13 am

12. marga, says: ank you MM and to your sister for your generosity in sharing a family heirloom. I have been in constant search for the perfect Ensaymada that could almost be like the search for the Holy Grail. I have enrolled for the nth time in baking classes that oered the Ensaymada that I liked- never liked the softy ones that stick to the walls of your mouth or the ones that are so oily because of the butter and cheese topping. I even learned Ensaymada with Mango, Ube etc llings. My fascination with Ensaymada started with my father who loves this bread. I guess he too was looking for the WWII type the closest being that of Hizons. Anyway, I will surely try your recipe and hopefully put an end to my search for the Holy Grail. By the way, your sister is such a prolic writer and I thoroughly enjoyed reading her post and allowing us to peep into your childhood memories. ank you. Mar 1, 2006 | 10:15 am

13. linda, says: anks a million to you and your sister for posting this long-awaited recipe.Am not really good at baking,but my hubby is and guess what?Im giving him a hand.Normally,when I attempt to bake,the family takes a holiday in a hurry including the cat as therell be a lot of tantrums and expletives in the kitchen. Itll certainly be a grand journey to ensaimada nirvana but,Im sure itll be worth the journey (through trial and error).ank you once again! Mar 1, 2006 | 10:48 am

14. Marketman, says: Yeast update. To help those who are really going to attempt this. DO NOT use instant rapid rise yeast. at was designed primarily for bread machines and not a slow rise ensaimada recipe. Use either regular granular yeast (labelled Red Star Active Dry Yeast in cans here in Manila groceries, but open a FRESH can), Fleischmanns imported yeast in packets labelled Active Dry Yeast and not their RapidRise at Rustans or better groceries. My sister says the best yeast to use is a 1 oz. cake of fresh yeast (dierent from granular yeast) available in the U.S., Australia and Europe for bakers there. In Manila, I have had good results with either the Red Star or Flieschmanns. Mar 1, 2006 | 10:51 am

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15. Mila, says: What a fantastic post! a perfect Almusal post too. anks MM and Sister of MM for the recipe, pre-recipe essay, and the challenge to make a real ensaimada. Just a question: do we cover the lavadora or the dough when it sits in the refrigerator? Or can we let it rise without a damp cloth cover? Mar 1, 2006 | 5:02 pm

16. sha, says: Patience indeed when I tested another recipe I started before 1pm and I did not get the actual product by 5pm. Mar 1, 2006 | 6:00 pm

17. bayi & ssk, says: Boy, just how tempting can bread be! My mouth is already salivating Mar 1, 2006 | 7:11 pm

18. Marketman, says: Mila, best to cover it I think. A clean damp cloth kitchen towel will do. Sha, this recipe takes me about 6-7 hours in total before I can sit back and stare at the results (either in horror or with contentmentheehee). I have typing elbow from the length of that postneed to rest Mar 1, 2006 | 8:19 pm

19. sister, says: Additional tips: You can cover the bowl with plastic wrap or foil to prevent a hard skin from forming on the dough surface, refrigerate this way as well. For those who want to use lard try home rendered lard that has been gently cooked over low heat or buy lard at the grocery. German and Polish butchers usually carry it as well. In the USA Armour in the green and white box is widely available. Remember lard is almost 100% fat as compared to butter which is only about 83% fat so you need slightly less lard. 1 1/2 lbs or 3/4 kilo should be adequate. You still need 1/2 c. butter to brush on top. To spread the lard on the rolled out dough half melt it and use a pastry brush. For a really old fashioned looking ensaimada take two of the coils and twist them around each other, fat ends together. en coil the twisted rope, fat end rst into a circle and tuck skinny end under.

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Place it on a foil or parchment lined cookie sheet. It should look like you grandmothers chignon and be about 5 inches wide uncooked. Let rise until double, about 2 hours at 68-70 F and bake at 400 F. is gives you the best proportion of crust to tender insides and will be what the 70 year old or over will remember as a proper ensdaimada. Mar 1, 2006 | 9:47 pm

20. Mary A., says: MM and Sister, anks you so much, I am inspired and educated by this wonderfull heirloom ensaimada recipe. It is really worth the wait. If I want to make half the amount, could I use half of the ingredients proportionately? Mar 2, 2006 | 2:35 am

21. sister, says: Yes, you can make half the amount and use half the amount of ingrdients, just reduce kneading time by a couple of minutes. Mar 2, 2006 | 5:50 am

22. fely barcelon, says: WOW,thank you so much. I will denitely try it tonight and will inform you tomorrow of the result. I have stopped buying bread since last year as I do the baking mysel and this is a big treat to me. You are really an angel to a working mom like me. HAVE A WONDERFUL DAY. Mar 2, 2006 | 12:00 pm

23. rina, says: hi MM, I can assure you that theres going to be a great deal of collective baking eorts this weekend! Sister, thanks for reaching out to us the ensaimada challenged :) Mar 2, 2006 | 2:35 pm

24. julius, says:

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hi MM, thanks for that wonderful articles on the ensaymada. instead of butter, I heat up an ensaymada and place it in a deep-dish bowl. I then take out a dollop of vanilla ice cream and drop it on the side. Its dierent but makes a very good merienda! cheers!! hope to feature food from Negros soon!! Mar 2, 2006 | 5:00 pm

25. RST, says: ese are absolutely terri c posts. And I really appreciate the fact that they are written forical pract application (Gene Gonzalezs recipe from Sulipan mentions for instance the use of 40 yolks in old recipes: I am not sure that is really reasonable to ask of the modern cook). I have two questions, the rst one directed not just to Marketman but to the general blog readership: can someone say more about dierences in regional styles? Gene Gonzalez in his Sulipan cookbook mentions a few distinctions but does not go into detail. Is there a distinct Visayan (or even more specically, Cebuano/Boholano etc) style? e second question is directed to Sister. First of all, thank you for that magni cent piece. I to nt wa pick your brain a little bit more re bakery practices of the pre-war (or immediate post-war) period. I assume that a mother batch of yeast is kept (and constantly replenished) to use continually from one day to the next. Is there a specic mother kept apart for ensaimadas or was the same batch used for all baked goods (pan de sal and so on). Could you also describe the oven a bit more. I assume the re came from below (as opposed to coming from the back: Neapolitan pizza oven style), I imagine a at roomy (perhaps vaulted?) surface and that baking pans (cast iron?) had to be shifted from time to time for even baking Richard Chicago Mar 3, 2006 | 2:30 am

26. Marketman, says: RST, I am not an expert but I have noticed that there are many additions or variations in toppings and types of sizesthere are the big at ones from Central Luzon that sometimes have red egg on top. ere are the ones with lots of cheese, no cheese, no butter and sugar on top. en there are the ones with ham, raisins, etc. As to regional attribution, I would have problems identifying which is which. I will have to alert my sister to answer the second part of your questionstay tuned. Mar 3, 2006 | 6:01 am

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27. sister, says: Dear RST: ank you for your interest in my Lolas bakery. I understand what you are referring to when you say mother batch as I kept one going in my own fridge for a couple of years until it spilled over and created an absolute mess. No, there was no mother kept alive from day to day in that bakery, a practice fairly common in Europe. Rather, at the end of each shift a trough full of lavadora was started for the next shift to use, so it was never more than 6 hours old at the most and it was used for every dierent bread made. It was mixed in a stainless steel lined rectangular wooden trough about 18 inches deep and 6ft. long by 3 ft. wide. Maybe weather conditions were not amenable to keeping a mother cool enough. e bakery was built shortly after the World War II after my paternal grandparents returned to Cebu. It was slightly below ground level for the most part, but not underground, so it was pretty cool most of the time. ere were 2 brick ovens built by Italian stone masons who retired from the US Army and stayed behind in Cebu. ey were vaulted and approximately 8 x 10 ft. and a small metal door d was in the middle for putting in and taking out the bread. It was built about 4ft. o the ground on a base of cement and bricks.It was red from the front rigt side,not below, through another door and the red mahogany used (Before EPA) was laid on the oor of the ovens. It was basically hot 24/7 but additional logs were added an hour before the pan de sal went in on a long wooden pallet. Pan de sal was baked directly on the brick oor of the oven, sans baking pan, and it gave the bread a distinctive hard, crip crust that cannot be replicated in a gas or electric oven. No shifting of pans were done, somehow miraculously the oven temp throughout seemed fairly even. As the coals cooled o into embers the sweet breads, ensaimada and monay and pan de coco were baked on the black steel pans they had been rising on, and nally, the loaf breads were put in last. As far as I know there was no thermostat, only experience guided the amount of wood added to get the appropriate temp. e bakery used 50lb. sacks of our, about 50 on a weekday and up to a 100 for holidays and weekends. All of it was kneaded by hand by burly bakers who were formerly employed as stevedores at the pier. ere was a medieval looking contraption akin to a pasta maker on steroids that was used to further rene the loaf bread dough, just like passing dough through a pasta machine. ere were 2 long narra tables that the dough was shaped on and the walls were lined with wooden shelves for keeping the pans while the bread was rising. e front of the bakery was very simple, consisting of 2 long wooden and glass aparadors. It was our job as kids to count the change and wrap them in paper for the bank on Monday morning. e bakery was not pro table, my grandmother supplied the whole neighborhood with free bread at the end of the day and unfortunately a dopey uncle decided to destroy the bakery and build a boardinghouse in the 70s after my grandfather died. It was very shortsighted, as the artisinal craze for brick oven breads came in the next decade and it would have been really terric if that bakery was still going! My grandmother always wistfully regretted the loss of the bakery, she lived until 1991. It was, however, only one of my Lolas businesses, she had other related ventures as well. I lived in Cebu until I was ve and every summer thereafter until I left for abroad. Marketman was born much later and so only has heard stories about this bakery since he grew up mostly in Manila. I dont know if there are any regional styles, but I suspect that Cebu, being the original Spanish colony, was very ensaimada concious. e original proportions for this recipe started with 100 hundred eggyolks, and I have reduced the recipe for the home cook who does not need to produce several hundred ensaimadas. However, most of the ensaimadas sold did not have any eggyoks, the only distinct avour was that of

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lard. ank you for your interest in Lolas Bakery. Mar 3, 2006 | 1:11 pm

28. sister, says: I might add that it was fairly common in the last half of the 20th century to use Purico a white solid fat,for baking. It was probably largely coconut oil based and it has disappeared from the general market after all the cholesterol concern elimminated it from commercial crackers and other products. However, coco based shortenings gave a lovely avour and mnade very crisp crusts. Again, you will have to experiment with the various fats available to make an ensaimada to your own liking. Happy Baking this weekend! Mar 3, 2006 | 1:51 pm

29. RST, says: is is simply breathtaking information! Fresh out of high school and before moving to the US, I was lucky enough to study with the late Dr. Doreen Fernandez, who has remained a major source of inspiration. I am really proud that there are still folks like you and Marketman who continue her work of keeping the ame of food culture alive. Sister, you absolutely MUST put all this together in a formal piece of writing. Perhaps oer it to Colman Andrews at Saveur. You can expand on the already rich material above by reminiscing on other aspects of your Lolas bakery operations (the making of pan de sal for instance). Surely brick ovens must still be quite common and continue to be in use, perhaps not in big cities like Cebu, Davao and so on, but in the countryside. I also imagine that most kitchens in old bahay na bato remain unmodernized and that baking is still done over coal/wood re. is practice was of course nearly extinct in the US until the revival of/rediscovery of artisanal baking techniques starting from the late 70s. Excepting these recent boutique bakers/pizzerias, I can think of only one old-school shop that continues to use coal-re in Chicago. But in a country like Mexico, brick/adobe ovens continue to be used, often by country bakers (who live in villages just outside big cities) who then bring in their goodies in large baskets to be sold in the markets or in traditional neighborhoods/parts of town (cf for instance the exceptional birotes sold outside the bus terminal in Guadalajara). is is how large cities in Mexico continue to be supplied with bread of the highest-quality: be it teleras for sandwiches or bolillos to enjoy with chocolate, or cemitas in Puebla, or those heavenly pan de yema from certain villages outside Oaxaca Re: the question of yeast I imagine that old-fashioned yeast cakes must still be available in traditional markets. I would love to hear from those who have experience with this product. In my own ai/Vietnamese groceries here in Chicago, I have seen yeast cakes for leavening and yeast to use as starter for the fermentation of home-made rice wine (or in the case of the Vietnamese, to make the lovely fermented rice balls called com ruou)Surely there must be a Filipino counterpart
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Richard Opplicario@aol.com Chicago Mar 4, 2006 | 5:11 am

30. bugsybee, says: OMG, it will take me a lifetime to do this but I can dream, cant I? anks for the recipe anyway. Mar 4, 2006 | 9:37 am

31. sister, says: Dear RST: e pan de sal is missed more than the ensaimada! e pan de sal was a daily staple, available hot twice a day. We were allowed to stay up until the rst pan de sal came out at 9 pm to be eaten with soft boiled eggs as a bedtime snack. en it was lights out after that. I do not know of any old brick ovens in use in the provinces, although the Casa Manila house in Intramoros has a clay wood red oven as part of its kitchen display. I was friendly with the family that owned Saveur originally, Meigher Publications, but they have since sold it. It certainly was the best food magazine, but too upscale for the supermarket crowd. I wish they would do a feature on Philippine food, since we are the largest migrant group in the US, after the Chinese. Hope you try out the ensaimada recipe on a cold Chicago weekend. I have an aunt in Chicago that gets ensaimada by fedex overnight on her birthday. She will be 75 this year but still only wants ensaimada for her birthday! Mar 4, 2006 | 10:25 am

32. maria, says: at last! someone who also shares the same liking for that long-ago kind of ensaimada. i also dont like the super-soft-buttered-and-sugared-to-death underbaked balls of dough thats currently so popular. ill be trying out your recipe using queensland butter. yup, i was an anchor and lurpak fan before but lately, when i made cinnamon rolls and melted the anchor bar for brushing and creamed lurpak for the llingboth were too watery and smelled less creamy. so i bought di erent bars of butter and melted them to see which one was the creamiestto my utter surpriseits queensland and it smelled creamier too. is that for real? im not sure if my senses went bonkersbut are there cheaper but better ingredients available locally? Mar 5, 2006 | 5:24 pm

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33. Tonya, says: Ive never had these but they look delicious and Ill denitely try to make them! One question though, is there no salt in the recipe? Would it be ok to add a pinch or two? Ive always thought that bread without salt tends to taste like uy paper. *smile* anks for a delicious looking recipe! Mar 11, 2006 | 12:36 pm

34. simone turner, says: for those who were soo eager to try this, and did try, what do you think about the recipe. a keeper or what? if it is that good, despite the 6-7 hours prep to baking time, then i make sure i skip my sunday date and do ensaimadas (MM style) instead. thank you. Mar 11, 2006 | 10:28 pm

35. Xuewei, says: is is in reply to simone turners comment. I tried this recipe yesterday (halved) and was very pleased with the results. e ensaimadas came out just as described. ey are richly avorful with a texture I love to sink my teeth into. And the smell when baking is heavenly I might add! However, I have only eaten a few ensaimadas in my time and would not be a good judge as to how it compares to the best. I plan to make some for my parents (who grew up in Manila) and that will be the true test! A big thank you to MM and sister for sharing this recipe. I am a new visitor, but have enjoyed what I have read on this site thus far. Mar 14, 2006 | 4:57 am

36. Marketman, says: Tonya, there is 1 TABLESPOON of salt in the recipe, it is critical to its success! It is in the write-up above, but I dont write recipes that clearly so you may have missed it near the top please put salt! anks. Simone, besides Suewei, two folks have privately emailed me that the results were to their liking. But remember, this isnt your uy sweet mall version. Xuewei, glad it worked for you! Mar 16, 2006 | 6:56 am

37. Marilou, says: Everyone who has tasted this ensaimada has declared it the delicious. I have made this recipe three

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weekends in a row by request from family members and friends. A request not taken lightly because this recipe is a bit time consuming and truly a labour of love. Denitely a keeper! Mar 19, 2006 | 7:44 am

38. Marketman, says: Marilou, so glad it worked for you. I hope others work up the nerve to try it. I had to work with the recipe at least 6 times until I was satised it is denitely worth the eort! Mar 19, 2006 | 1:49 pm

39. trishlovesbread, says: is recipe turns out PERFECT ensaimadasthanks MM! Actually your recipe is almost identical with my moms except instead of corn oil, she uses evaporated milk. When newly baked, these ensaimadas and my moms taste the same. e dierence lies in that after a few days, these ones stay more moist. On my third try, I used only half of the corn oil, and substituted the other half with milk. I honestly couldnt tell the dierence. Message for MMs sister: where can I get aordable ensaimada molds in NY? Ive only seen them (brioche molds) at Williams-SonomaYIKES, expensive! Mar 22, 2006 | 6:08 am

40. Marketman, says: trish, glad the recipe worked for you, still dreading the rst comment that I poisoned someone have relatives send you ensaimada molds from Manila, they are about 25 U.S. cents each in the large groceries and work perfectly. No need to get expensive W-S molds. Mar 22, 2006 | 9:53 am

41. simone turner, says: thanks MM,ill try your ensaimada recipe this week and cant wait to enjoy at least 2 freshly baked homemade ensaimadas soon. will let you know about this looking-forward-to date with your ensaimada. thanks again. one more question pls, is there a way you can post the clone recipe for supermelt ensaimada too? Mar 22, 2006 | 7:48 pm

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42. Marketman, says: simone, I dont have a recipe for the sweeter, uer versions but i suspect they have a lot more sugar, rise longer, are baked at lower temperatures for shorter periods of time Mar 22, 2006 | 9:10 pm

43. Simone Turner, says: MM, still havent had the chance of doing your ensaimada. But really sort of analyzing your recipe for some time now. Just one thing please, i noticed you use bread our. Most ensaimada recipes, being a sweet dough-base like cinnamon rolls, usually call for all-purpose our. Can i substitute? Mar 25, 2006 | 9:03 am

44. Marketman, says: Simone, its best to do it with bread our. Alternatively bakers hard wheat our called Primera in the Philippines works okay, and all-purpose our your last choice. Try it as written rst, then you can play with it to your liking. I understand the hesitation and trepidation, but if you just do it you will end up with a good ensaimada and with practice, hopefully a great ensaimada. Others have tried it as is and seem pleased Mar 25, 2006 | 12:12 pm

45. DCD, says: 3rd times a charm. 1st time the yeast was bad and the bread didnt rise, 2nd time realized that all-purpose our doesnt turn out the same quality for breadlike consistency, today, they came out just right! thanks for sharing MM. Apr 2, 2006 | 10:25 am

46. Marketman, says: DCD, perserverence pays oglad they nally came out okay! Apr 2, 2006 | 11:11 am

47. ms, says:

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thank you for this recipe. i grew up in cebu too, and i remember our breakfast fare of ensaimada, churros, pan de sal and pan de leche. family members had dierent favourites, so we all had these on the table. my lolas cousin had a bakery next door, so we use to get our bread hot and fresh every morning. i am looking for a recipe for pan de leche which was my favourite in my youth. are you able to help. sadly the bakery next door also no longer exist. and on the many trips ive made back to my hometown in Cebu, i havent come across the same avour that I use to enjoy so much. ive tried some spanish recipes, but I think the Filipino version is already modied. It was soft, not too sweet, milky, but white. so i gure that it probably didnt use butter. one thing i remember from the next door bakery was the huge cans of lard that they used for baking. Apr 16, 2006 | 8:48 am

48. Marketman, says: ms, I dont have a recipe for pan de leche but if I come across one I will certainly post it Apr 17, 2006 | 1:44 pm

49. Annie Radley, says: ank you very much for sharing this wonderful ensaymada recipe. I have been looking for several years but with no success. I took lessons from Sylvia Reynoso few years back before I moved here in the US but it was not like the ensaymada that we buy from our local panaderia. Do you recomend cake our with this recipe? Although, Pillsburry and Gold Medal are both a good choice . TNX!!! Apr 17, 2006 | 9:14 pm

50. Marketman, says: Annie, DO NOT use cake our. U.S. bread our is best, just the stu you get in the grocery is good Apr 17, 2006 | 9:41 pm

51. Marketman, says: aridelros, no I havent tried the tender trap ones but I am partial to ensaimadas with heft and texture rather than the softer sweeter ones

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Apr 18, 2006 | 8:18 pm

52. je, says: Hi Marketman, First o, congratulations to you for an outstanding website!! I discovered this by accident (like champagne, I heard) and I have never looked back since. You had me at ensaymada!! By the way, Im new here (just in writing, not in viewing) and let me say that your writings on ensaymada were brilliant. Particularly your sisters rendering of the family recipe which I found heart-warming as I spend almost everyday talking to my dear Mom about recipes long gone. Also, talk about few degrees of separation, imagine my delight when I read about how you enjoyed Payards desserts and Id like to mention that I am currently apprenticing in his pastry shop in NYC (in preparation for my coming culinary education). Talk about Disney for dessert-lovers!! Pave nicoise, pate de fruits, opera cakewho needs therapy when you got these??! Anyway, thanks again for a wonderful website and in spirit, I believe weve met already and that I nd you pleasant and generous of heart. Je Apr 28, 2006 | 7:27 am

53. Marketman, says: je, thanks for those comments. My sister, who wrote about the ensaimada, literally lives around the corner from Payard. So when in NYC, we have croissants straight out of the oven! If you are Filipino, you may ure out who she is one of these days as she is frequently in the shop Apr 28, 2006 | 12:40 pm

54. Annie Radley, says: Hello Marketman, I tried the ensaymada recipe after I print it out and it was marvelous. It was so soft and uy!!!! I was so happy to share with Lolo whom he did not eat ensaymada for long time. He said its very authentic and again THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR SHARING THIS RECIPE. ITS WORTH TRYING IT. ITS NOT TOO COMPLICATED. FOLLOW ALL THE INSTRUCTION AND WITHIN FEW HOURS YOU WILL HAVE THE BEST ENSAYMADA. ANNIE Apr 28, 2006 | 9:29 pm

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55. Marketman, says: Annie, so glad the recipe worked for you. Several other readers have emailed to say it worked well tooI hope others get to try the recipe as well Apr 28, 2006 | 9:40 pm

56. Je, says: MM, I am also lucky to live close to Payard and pass by it on my way to work. Yes, proudly Filipino here. Boy, your sister is in the right nabe alright!! Excellent the desserts are at Payard, your ensaymada was in an entirely dierent league. I too have been zealously searching for the real recipe and Ive seen a LOT of pseudo-ensaymadas out there. Truth is, people guard their recipes like swiss bank accounts and will never part with it till the heavens fall. ats what set you apart, MM, and for that, youve already won my vote. It was what I had in mind, with the slight yeast aroma that I look for. I used cake yeast btw, and it works great. One question though, have you tried using milk instead of H20 in the lavadora? How do you think it will turn out? Till next time, Je Apr 29, 2006 | 6:51 am

57. Marketman, says: Je,while I have not used milk, others too have suggested it. I would imagine it would result in a richer dough but I am not sure its worth a try the next time you bake the recipe Apr 29, 2006 | 1:06 pm

58. sister, says: Dear Je: I do sometimes add some milk instead of some of the water. It makes a very moist ensaimada but has a texture that is more cake like. Payards croissants have improved over time and I do buy them along with the orange cracqueline for breakfast but they are still not as good as Bontes used to be. When you see a small terrier tied up to your front door at 7 am you know Im inside. Ill look out for you by your door to the basement where you are baking! Nice to know you are there. May 5, 2006 | 6:54 pm

59. Herman, says: Dear MM,

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Do you have classroom that teach people to make Ensaimada and other delicious pastries? Please send me your classroom address and contact phone number by e-mail, I am planning to visit Manila in the near future. anks very much. Regards, Herman Taipei, Taiwan Jun 20, 2006 | 11:06 pm

60. Marketman, says: Herman, thanks for askingbut no, this is just a food blog. I dont teach cooking. anks. Jun 22, 2006 | 3:52 pm

61. m2s, says: Very nice recipe. Bread comes out better if you let the dough rise in a cool place such as the fridge (it just takes a little bit of waiting.) Yeast-activitated dough will rise whether it is in a cool or warm place the heat accelerates the rising. You will notice a big dierence in the quality of the bread if the dough has risen in a cool place. It does take patience making good bread. Jun 26, 2006 | 1:30 am

62. sister, says: M2S, I agree, a long, slow rise makes a better bread, or ensaimada in particular. I recommend between 50-60 F for several hours for each rising. Sometimes I even leave the sponge OR the completely mixed and kneaded dough in the fridge for 4-6 hours, punching it down and turning it over once after the rst hour. Even better reduce the amount of yeast by 25% and be patient. After shaping it is best to leave it at room temperature for the nal rising,m about 70 F is best. Total elapsed time should be about 12-14 hrs. Jul 22, 2006 | 10:49 pm

63. Margaux Salcedo, says:

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hi Marketman. Im new to food blogs but quickly getting addicted. Super love your site. But its 4 pm, merienda time and now i want to taste those ensaimadas you made. I can make kick ass tsokolate but have yet to learn to make ensaimada to go with it (I enjoy the tsokolate instead with suman antala). But I wanna try those ensaimadas!!!!!!!!!!!! Do you sell? Ill buy. Kahit P100 per piece. Dec 11, 2006 | 4:12 pm

64. Marketman, says: Margaux, sorry, I dont sell anything Dec 11, 2006 | 6:15 pm

65. minilie, says: Hi, i hope you can help me.im here in Germany.and i dont know what our i must use.thanks. Feb 27, 2007 | 2:57 am

66. minilie, says: Hi po ulit, madami po kasing type ng harina dito sa amin.at hindi ko po alam kung ano pong Harina ang gagamitin ko.all purpose our at ano po ba ang pastry our.ito po yung type ng harina na pedeng bilhin dito.salamt po ng marami kung ma help nyo po ako Ash Protein Wheat our type US German French all-purpose our 405 45 pastry our 550 55 high gluten our 812 80 rst clear our 1050 110 white whole wheat 1600 150 salamt po ng marami sa inyo. Feb 27, 2007 | 3:01 am

67. Marketman, says: Minilie, you are lucky to have so many choices! I would try either the high gluten our (which should be closer to a primera our in Philippine bakeries) or if that doesnt work, use the all-purpose our. You may need to try this recipe a few times, adjusting the our volume,butter and oil to get it to a

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consistency you like good luck! And let us know if it works! Feb 27, 2007 | 6:41 am

68. minilie, says: Hi Marketman, A THANK YOU FROM MY HEARTNagawa ko na po,hindi ako makapaniwala na nagawa ko!salamat po talaga ng marami.. Minilie Mar 7, 2007 | 9:41 pm

69. mamma baker, says: I tried your recipe but divided into half and comes out verryy masarap and delicious. I tried it twice and still resulted to delicious ensaimada you dont need queso de bola just butter and sugar and the smell of your house is unbelievable. you guys need to try it exactly like the recipe said.maraming salamat for sharing your recipe. Apr 6, 2007 | 7:40 am

70. Evangeline Dacanay, says: anks for this recipe. Ill try it tomorrow maybe. I will go to the supermarket this afternoon to y bu ingredients. By the way I have in my fridge instant yeast(Sa Instant yeast). I placed it in an airtight bottle and its there for sometime now. If I am not mistaken about 3 years already. Can I still use it? AGain manay thanks. Jun 24, 2007 | 2:30 pm

71. Marketman, says: Evangeline, throw out that yeast and get fresh yeast. Trust me, three years in the fridge is bad for just about any ingredient Jun 24, 2007 | 3:52 pm

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72. bluegirl, says: ank you for this recipe! After 3 weekends of trying, I nally got it right. ey were delicious bu t did not look as pretty as the ones in the pictures I still need to practice the forming and coiling! he..he..he a nice excuse to bake another batch. What did your Lolas bakery do with all the eggwhites? Jul 23, 2007 | 8:53 am

73. sister, says: bluegirl, Most of the ensaimada sold in my Lolas bakery did not contain a single eggyolk, only special orders had yolks and or raisens. I suggest you make meringue nests with the eggwhites, bake at 275F until crisp and ll them with pastry cream or fruit for dessert. Or give the eggwhites to a dieter to make omelets. Aug 20, 2007 | 7:29 pm

74. Jerry, says: Im sure you have an reputable supplier for your eggs, but I read that in China, they feed chickens (or ducks) a red dye to achieve a brilliant orange yolk. It turns out that this dye is cancerous to humans. Oct 13, 2007 | 6:17 pm

75. inked_chef, says: quick question isnt the ensaimada almost similar to a brioche? sans the butter, sugar queso de bola topping? on organic eggs i got some from santis which are quite good. en there is this lady in divisoria that sells them cheaper than the non organic ones. My purchaser would buy at least 10 trays if he sees them and they make any dessert richer. But like everything else in the philippines the supply is not constant. Just a quick shout out! IM LOOKING FOR CHEFS!!!!! I need to sta a new concept with chefs that are passionate about good food. We are currently running two restaurants and opening the 3rd one in a months time preferably male, 25-35yo, who has experience in european food. Location is makati. anks MM Oct 17, 2007 | 2:04 pm

76. Marketman, says: inkedchef, yes, an older style ensaimada should be like a brioche married to a croissant as my sister

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would say Oct 17, 2007 | 2:08 pm

77. inked_chef, says: thanks MM by the way i have 12 seedlings ( more of sprouts hahah) of kar lime in my garden just now brought home some kar from bangkok and took out the seeds and planted them. If they are strong enough to be replanted want one ? Oct 18, 2007 | 7:07 pm

78. PiPer, says: I baked this last week, and Im sooo glad it turned out pretty well! (According to my pleasantly surprised 70-year old dad, ikaw ba ang gumawa nito??!!) But sad to say MM, he doesnt have any memories of pre/post-war ensaimadas because they couldnt aord it back then =( Oct 24, 2007 | 12:21 pm

79. cheng, says: i made this recipe but it didnt turn ou d way i like itit is just like an ordinary bread thoim so disappointed..i dont think i can get d old recipe for ensaimada like hizon and d cunananswel i gues i hv to stick to my ensaimada recipe which taste better dan d muhlach brand..i have no luck in nding the hizon kind of ensaimada recipe=C Oct 31, 2007 | 7:10 am

80. Marketman, says: cheng, just to remind you, the caveats were clearly stated, this is NOT a puy modern commercial ensaimada. It is not the cakey airy cunanan equivalent. It is more the 1950s style bready ensaimada, not a sweet cake like confection. Sorry it isnt what you like. But I generally dont like the ones you describe either Oct 31, 2007 | 9:07 am

81. cheng, says: thanks for the recipe tho. i havent tried d 1950s ensaimada maybe dats y dis recipe didnt work for mei can see that there are lot of people who are so crazy for ensaimadabtw,,i am wondering y do

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some recipe of ensaimada have mashed potato? is it for longer shelf life? ur website is so interestingi hope der r more recipes to come..and some recipe sharing as well..thanku marketman..=) Nov 1, 2007 | 7:22 am

82. maria, says: After reading your sisters wonderful prose on your family ensaymada, I decided to give it a try. Ive made two batches and so far theyve been aesthetically disappointing. e taste is there (truly delish), but I have to practice that coiling thing!!! Somehow, the buns unravel while they are rising and then I try to pinch them so that they become buns again. en they unravel again in the oven!!! I will be patient and try this another 12 times!! Dec 9, 2007 | 7:01 am

83. Rob, says: Lavadora?? I think it should be LEVADURA, no es cierto? Jan 14, 2008 | 7:05 am

84. nilserate, says: Rob LEVADURA is the french/spanish term for yeast. In the philippines Marketman is correct in using the term. but i think the second oor time (rise) is too much (1 hour). only about 30 minutes is needed to let the dough rest or mellow for easy make up, i.e. spreading thin and coiling. ensaymada is also called snail in english baking bread our has about 12-13 % protein, high gluten our may result in a very elastic dough and baked product, just add pastry our at about 70:30 high gluten to pastry our ratio Mar 3, 2008 | 12:55 pm

85. Winky, says: Ive tasted ensaimada made from a BreadMaker a little too hard compared to the ones my Mom used to make in her bakery will test your recipe! And since I dont sleep at night, this will make a great breakfast for my 4 year old who loves bread! anks! Mar 14, 2008 | 3:04 pm

86. sister, says:

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Maria, Coil your ensaimadas and tuck the ends way under so they do not unravel. You can also use a greased mun or brioche pan to contain them. As for the 2 ropes twisted together if they uncoil when you circle them try doing the circling in the opposite direction and they will stay twisted, tuck end under every time. Cheng, try following this recipe religiously, using copious amounts of butter, do not alter the proportions and you will get better results. Do not expect perfect ensaimadas the rst time around unless you are a very experienced bread baker. Crust should be akey like a decent croissant and inside should be tender and ropey like a good brioche. Jun 9, 2008 | 7:56 am

87. Clarissa, says: hi MM :) i tried your recipe over the weekend and it turned out great :) i made a few changes, like making it sweeter, and tried to make it more healthful by using whole eggs rather than just egg yolks. my mom did say it would have been creamier with just the yolks, but i was happy with the results. if not eating it freshly out of the oven, i suggest toasting the ensaimada rst (without the butter, sugar and cheese topping)and creating that crunchy crust. you can add all the stu atop it or do way that i do, i just eat it plain. (i think making it cured me from wanting any more butter on it :P ) Jun 10, 2008 | 9:26 am

88. Pebs, says: Sister/MM, I nally got around to trying the ensaimada recipe yesterday. anks so much for sharing this! e ensaimadas turned out delicious-my husband and mother in law loved them! Just one thing though. e dough came out very greasy after I added the butter, so I ended up only putting about 1/3 of the oil stated in the recipe. Even then, the dough came out very soft so that it was a little dicult to roll. en when I coiled the pieces in the molds, they became like blobs you could not distinguish the coil anymore. What do you think was wrong? Maybe I should have added more our? I used the max stated in the recipe 6 cups. Also, is the oil necessary? Jun 10, 2008 | 5:53 pm

89. sister, says: To Pebs: Try adding another 1/4 to 1/2 cup of our to the dough so it has more body, and dont let it over rise.

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e dough will feel greasy when you knead it, chill it for better handling when you roll it out and c oil it. Always use bread our. It will take a few tries to get it right. Jul 23, 2008 | 11:50 am

90. Del, Norway says: I have been lurking for over a year now and have been visiting your blog almost daily. But now I really have to leave a comment to say THANK YOU VERY MUCH to you and your sister for sharing your ensaimada recipe! I had been hesitant to try it because of the number of egg yolks needed I didnt know what Id do with the 20 egg whites. So for a year now Ive been using a recipe I found somewhere which used only 3 eggs (it was good enough to ease the homesickness). But tomorrow being my birthday and my little girl requesting we bake ensaimada today, I thought why not give your recipe a shot. I AM SOOOO GLAD I did it is REALLY REALLY good! Oh and I know what to do with the eggwhites now half will be made into Walnut Meringue cookies and half will go into the quiche lling for Saturday lunch ;) Nov 13, 2008 | 5:25 am

91. mamma baker, says: dear mm, thank you for that recipe. you guys need to try it. the dough could be the spanish bread and kolache too. i baked a lot and freeze them . it is pure AWESOMENESS SARAP!!!maraming salamat again. Ill be watching you soon on the travel channel NO RESERVATION WITH ANTHONY BOURDAIN.Keep the good recipe from coming. Nov 17, 2008 | 6:52 pm

92. sister, United States says: I tried this recipe today as written and I used a total of 13 c. our or a scant 4 lbs. Most bread recipes give you a range because our can have moisture, dierent protein or gluten percentages, etc. so some adjustment is often necessary. Even if the dough is soft kneading well increases the elasticity and makes it easier to pull thinly enough to create the layers characteristic of a good ensaimada. Jan 12, 2009 | 1:59 am

93. Ernie, says: Hello, Hi there, do you teach how to make ensamaida personally, I was in Manila last Sept. 08 to learn how

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to make ensaimada but when I got back in Sydney it is totally dif. or even to charge us fee it is okay to us. thanks you. ernie Feb 3, 2009 | 5:42 am

94. Lilibeth, says: Hi Marketman and Sister, I have been lurking in your blog and have been planning on making the ensaimada but found the time to do it only last Saturday. I have to say that this is the most delicious tasting ensaimada my family and I have ever tried. We used to order from Cunanan when we were still living in the Philippines (we now live in LA, California) and we all agreed that the Cunanan version is not even worth comparing to yours. It tasted heavenly! I have tried so many other ensaimada recipes in the past but none like this they came out too dense, hard, and not that tasty. is is truly an amazing ensaimada recipe and I do admire your generosity in sharing it with us because I know a lot of people who will not share a recipe as good as this even to relatives. I have experienced being turned down by these people and I am truly grateful to you. BTW, my husband bought me a Kitchenaid Professional 600 Mixer last Christmas and it did all the work for me mixing and kneading no sweat at all with the Kitchenaid. Now, when it came to rolling it out, spreading the butter, and coiling it, it was hard work. How I wish the Kitchenaid could also do it for me :) I used just the Ralphs brand of bread our (that was the cheapest) and Fleischmanns yeast in a packet and Challenge butter (Plugra is too expensive and the taste comes close and it is also from the same makers of Danish creamery butter which is very similar to Plugra) and I followed your recipe exactly as is and it came out perfect. When I saw the nished product, I could not even believe I made it! It looked so professionally made (rightfully so since I spent a lot of time coiling it and followed sisters advice of tucking it under) even my kids said it looked like it came from a bakery nicely coiled on top and evenly browned and softand the aroma was wonderful. Of course I gave you the credit I told them I got the recipe from you guys. With the other ensaimada recipes Ive tried, even though I would coil it, it never came out that way after baking the top would even out but this one looked like a real professionally made ensaimada. Aside from butter and sugar, I topped it with grated queso de bola and I used about 1/4 of the big ones $25 for a big ball here in LA. Never mind if queso de bola is expensive here in the US but for us, ensaimada is not complete without the queso de bola. I wonder how much it is there in Manilaused to be P500 for the big ball when we were there. Anyway, thank you so much marketman and sister from the bottom of my heart and my familys for this wonderful recipe. God bless you both for your big hearts. Lilibeth Feb 11, 2009 | 12:02 pm

95. Marketman, Philippines says: Lilibeth, thank you so much for taking the time to write those kind words. I am so happy the recipe

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worked for you, in LA, and that your family enjoyed the fruits of your labor. It gives me (and Sister, I am sure) great pleasure to have helped someone create these artisanal type ensaimadas treasure the recipe and share it with others the more folks who keep baking it, the longer it will remain in our midst. Happy eating! Feb 11, 2009 | 12:17 pm

96. Lilibeth, says: I surely will email the link to this recipe to all of my friends and Im sure theyre going to love me for that. Im so happy I found your blog its like hitting the jackpot. I cant wait to try your other recipes as I can see you are a real food connoisseur. I thought 36 ensaimadas was a lot but it went really fast with us. My family is already asking when I will bake again. God bless! Feb 20, 2009 | 10:44 am

97. sanojmd, says: hello, mm can i use vegetable oil or olive oil instead of corn oil?coz i cant nd the corn oil here in the suburbs..im planning to do this already but the corn oil-hunt is taking so much of my time..thanks! Feb 26, 2009 | 5:21 pm

98. Marketman, Philippines says: sanojmd, yes, use something like wesson vegetable oil. Feb 26, 2009 | 7:58 pm

99. Sanojmd, says: Hi MM. I just nished making this recipe but the dough did not rise, is it because of the yeast? But it was listed on the product that I bought that it is a dry yeast. Or is it because its not so hot here. But i also followed the maximum time you told in the recipe. It resulted to actually more like a crust of an empanada than an ensaimada bread. But it taste good. Oh well I just know I did something wrong here. But Im still gonna give it another try till I perfect your familys recipe. Any more pointers for me to make this right? anks MM. Cheers! Feb 27, 2009 | 6:45 pm

100. Mae, says:

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hello marketman and sis, thanks very much for a fantastic traditonal ensaimada recipe.its one of my favorite snack when i was still in the philippines and still is each time i go back home.Im now based in the U.K. and i dont think we get as much lipino food product as US does.Ive tried this recipe yesterday and this is the rst time ive made ensaimada. I only did half of the recipe (just in case ill not be successful) so i divided everything into two.ough i have to wait a good 6-7hrs before i could take my rst bite, it came out perfect!i had the most delicious ensaimada in the world! In fairness, in between me kneading the dough and waiting for it to rise and punching it,i was able to go to the garden centre to get my summer bulbs, had coee with a friend in the afternoon and cooked dinner for my other halfI followed every single step of the recipe although I wasnt sure if self-raising our will be ok so i used the white strong bread our. I also used a healthy option margarine (Flora) instead of butter and lard and i used active dry yeast instead of fresh ones.i manually kneaded the dough as my mixer doesnt have the important dough hook. i suppose i could have used the dough maker setting on the food processor but i wasnt bothered at all kneading it. I didnt need to refrigerate the dough either but it was totally delicious!I wished i didnt half the recipe so we could have enjoyed more of itbut im sure ill be spreading the good news to my friends soonand ill be making them again the soonest possible time ank you very much again. More power to you and God Bless!!!

Apr 2, 2009 | 11:04 am

101. Larni, says: Hello Mr. MM and to your sis, ank you for posting this recipe. it turned out really good. I cut my ingredients in half and I am expecting failure for my rst trybut its OMG!! what I did is that i used my stand mixer and at the same time I knead it by hand and i just used what ever butter i have in my fridge, did not use canola oil, i used vege oilohhh well MM what can I say?? A big hug to you and your sis and thank you..my husband is Italian and a picky bread eater he never like sweet buns but this ensaymada? i feel like i win jackpot..he loves its.he start eating right away fresh from the oven. I have picture and i will share them to you if you wanted to. let me know. thank you again and God Bless you Always. Take Care. Jun 30, 2009 | 12:00 pm

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