GENERAL CONDITIONS IN CONSTRUCTING A SEPTIC TANK (Demski, 1975) 1.

The concrete or masonry septic tank is usually constructed in a rectangular form. The reason is to retard the even ow of the waste that is necessary to avoid disturbing the decomposition process inside the tank. 2. The minimum inside dimension of a septic tank is 90 centimeters wide by 150 centimeters long. 3. For effective decomposition of the organic materials inside the septic tank, a 120-centimeter depth of the liquid content is necessary. It is not impractical though, to construct a tank of greater depth, provided it should not be deeper than the natural ground water table. 4. The inlet and outlet of the septic tanks should be a long turn sanitary tee. The inverts are installed in the wall of the tank at least 120 centimeters from its bottom eequally spaced from both sides. 5. The invert is extended down the liquid of the tank not more than 30 centimeters. This is to assure smooth delivery of the incoming sewage below the scum line. Scum refers to the lighter organic material that arises to the surface of the water. 6. The bottom of the digestion chamber should be sloped to one low point. The purpose is to gather the settled organic materials into one mass to favor the propagation of the anaerobic bacteria. 7. The septic tank should be provided with a manhole, extended a few centimeters above the surface of the soil to overcome inltration of surface water. This manhole will serve the purpose of cleaning, inspection, and repair of the tank. 8. Septic tank for large plumbing installations is provided with suspended compartment attached to the ceiling slab of the tank. The bafe plate is extended down the bottom of the tank about 50 centimeters below the scum line. Each compartment of the tank separated by the bafe plate is provided with manhole. 9. The septic tank should be constructed near the surface of the ground, because the correction of the waste depends upon the extent of oxidation and existence of aerobic bacteria.

CORRECT INSTALLATION TECHNIQUES AND STEPS IN PLUMBING (Cornell, 1986) 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. Prepare and arrange the tools and materials. Remove the lock nut and washer. Leave the rubber washer on the tail pipe. Slip the tail pipe into the lavatory basin. Press the water faucet into position. Place the washer into the tail pipe. Screw the lock nut into the tail pipe. Tighten the lock nut using a shetack wrench, one hand holding the wrench the other preventing the water faucet from rotating. 8. Clean all tools used and leave the area clean.

STEPS IN TESTING THE FITTING FOR LEAK 1. Open the angle valve. 2. Open the faucet and let the water drain. 3. Check all the ttings for leak. If necessary, tighten the tting further to stop any leak. 4. Check the rubber washer of the water faucet. It should completely ll the gap between the water faucet and the lavatory basin. 5. Close the water faucet. 6. If a leak occurs, install another water faucet by repeating the same procedure in installing.