Katowice

Nikiszowiec
A 20th century workers

paradise
Park of Culture
& Recreation
Get out and relax
Hotels Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
KATOWICE
July - October 2011
N13 - 5z (w tym 8% VAT)
katowice.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1899-0215
& THE SILESIA
CONGLOMERATION
3
CONTENTS
July - October 2011 katowice.inyourpocket.com
Arrival & Transport 10
The Basics 13
Culture & Events 16
Where to Stay 20
Restaurants 26
Cafes 39
Nightlife 40
History 50
Sightseeing
Essential Katowice 51
What to See 52
Further Afield
Auschwitz 62
Leisure 64
Park of Recreation & Culture 66
Silesian Football 68
Shopping 70
Directory 73
Maps & Indexes
Katowice Map 74
Chorzw Map 76
Gliwice Map 77
Zabrze Map 78
Regional Map 79
Street Indexes 80
Features & Listings Indexes 82
Contents
While the weather continues to smile why not visit one
of Europes greatest parks? With lots to do and see, the
story behind its development is worth a read. Read more
on page 66. Photo: Courtesy of WPKIW.
Built at the start of the 20th century, Nikiszowiec is now
a listed national monument. Take a trip to visit one of the
most unique and revolutionary housing districts in the
world. Find out more on page 6. Printed with the consent of
Katowice City Council
Follow POLANDIYP on
4
Katowice In Your Pocket
FOREWORD
katowice.inyourpocket.com
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright WIYP
1999/2011. Maps copyright
cartographer. All rights reserved. No part
of this publication may be reproduced
in any form, except brief extracts for
the purpose of review, without written
permission from the publisher and
copyright owner. The brand name In Your
Pocket is used under license from UAB
In Your Pocket (Vokieciu 10-15, Vilnius,
Lithuania tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
Editors note
The editorial content of In Your Pocket
guides is independent from paid-for
advertising. Sponsored listings are
clearl y marked as such. We welcome all
readers comments and suggestions.
We have made every effort to ensure
the accuracy of the information at the
time of going to press and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.
Think of Katowice as the nucleus for this Upper
Silesian region. Its the biggest and most important
place, but its certainly not the only community with
plenty to see and do in the area. Overlooking the
rest of the region would be like going to New York
City and never leaving downtown Manhattan. We
cover many of the smaller towns that surround
Katowice, each with its own character and places
of interest. As an important transportation hub
and Polands largest urban conglomeration, the
Katowice area is moving up in the world and weve
streamlined and expanded our guide to keep
pace. As weve included the places of interest
from all over the Katowice region, if a place is
outside the city proper of Katowice weve added
the town to the address. So, keep an eye out. As
it is throughout Poland, summer and autumn are
probably the most picturesque seasons of the year
and a great time to get to know Katowices outdoor
scene. Theres plenty to do and see all over the
regions great outdoors and Katowices Park of
Culture is at the top of the list. Summer also brings
the return of the football season to a region that
is as crazy for the sport as any in Poland. Have
a look at our football feature for a peek at the
rivalries, personalities, and status of local teams.
Two historic planned communities, Giszowiec and
Nikiszowiec are featured and both are rare, hidden
little architectural diamonds in the rough. Exploring
and getting to know Katowice and its surroundings
will be a far longer and more rewarding experience
than you probably thought. The list of things to see
and do is ever growing. Katowice In Your Pocket is
growing right along with it, so its no coincidence
that this is our biggest guide ever! Let us know
your thoughts, concerns or opinions and any tips or
suggestions you might have at the normal address:
editor_poland@inyourpocket.com And dont
forget you can leave your own thoughts on venues
listed here and online at our website: katowice.
inyourpocket.com
Publisher
WIYP Sp. z o.o.
ul. Paderewskiego 1, 81-831 Sopot
Company office & Accounts
Basia Olszewska
58 555 08 31
katowice@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
Printing CGS
Published 10,000 copies,
3 times per year
Maps
Agencja Reklamowa POD ANIOLEM
ul. Wenecja 26/5, 31-117 Krakw
tel./fax 12 421 24 48
agencja@pod-aniolem.com.pl
Editorial
Editor Craig Turp
Research Manager Anna Hojan
Researchers Katarzyna Burzyska,
Aneta Roszak, Maria Rulaff
Events Klaudia Mampe, ukasz Jankowski,
Vaughan Elliott
Design Tom Haman
Photography www.flickr.com,
www.wikipedia.pl
Cover Printed with the consent of Katowice
City Council
Sales & Circulation
Director: Magorzata Drzszcz 606 749 676
Krakw/Katowice/Zakopane
Manager: Anna Szumniak 668 876 351
Warszawa/d
Manager: Marta Ciepy 606 749 643
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Katowice In Your Pocket katowice.inyourpocket.com
WORKERS PARADISE
Prospective foreign travellers putting together their Polish
tourist i tineraries have a tendency to regard Katowice
as an acne-scarred unwanted stepchild, and justi fiably
so. As another IYP editor once famously said of the city,
architecturally, much of Katowice looks like the contents
of your dustbin, overturned. Do some rummaging through
that rubbish, however, and we think youll agree, there are
a few rewards to be found. With that in mind we direct the
determined tourist on a dumpster-diving diversion southeast
of the city centre to the workers districts of Nikiszowiec and
Giszowiec. Home to some highly unique early 20
th
century
architecture, an excellent modern art gallery, magnificent
church and a few additional offbeat attractions, these two
forgotten attempts at plebeian paradise offer intrepid visitors
a confounding, yet fascinating glimpse at a foregone age.
Pack yourself a lunch, your camera, and off you go.
There & Back
Tourists should plan on first visiting Nikiszowiec (8km/15min
from the city centre), the closer and more compelling of the
two districts, before continuing on to Giszowiec (10km/20min
away) as time and interest allow. Getting there is simple: Take
bus 674 from the stop in front of the train station (D-2), or we
recommend catching bus 30 from Al. Korfantego in front of
the Katowice Hotel (C-3); the more direct and straightforward
of the two routes, this also allows you to get off right at the
stop named Galeria Syb Wilsona. Though off the map in our
guide, both districts are still within Zone 1 of Katowices public
transport network, meaning passengers onl y need a normal
2.80z fare ticket. All of the above-mentioned buses can be
caught at stops in Giszowiec or Nikiszowiec and taken back
into town. There are also random minibuses that run regularly
between Giszowiec and Katowices main train station. These
buses stop at all Giszowiecs busstops, but youll have to
flap your arm at them to get them to pick you up. The fare
is a negligible 2-5z and the drivers are flexible with dropoffs
along their route.
The Wilson Shaft Gallery
ul. Oswobodzenia 1 (Nikiszowiec), tel. (+48) 32 730
32 20, www.szybwilson.org. Just north of the centre
of Nikiszowiec (3km by official measure), this seemingly
obscure and certainly underappreciated modern art gal-
lery is arguably Katowices best art space and one of the
primary highlights of a trip to Nikiszowiec. Located in the
pithead building and bathhouse of the old Wilson shaft of the
Wieczorek mine, the buildings now occupied by the gallery
date back to 1918, and were designed by the same Zillman
brother tandem behind the Nikiszowiec housing district. The
dilapidated mineshaft, where exacavations began back in
1864, can still be seen in glorious ruin behind the gallery
buildings, having ceased operation in 1997. Taken over by the
Pro Inwest company and adapted into exhibition and office
spaces, the area around the Wilson shaft is now filled with
brightly-painted outdoor sculptures in sharp contrast to the
industrial surroundings, as well as a muraled entrance wall
full of colourful pop culture icons (making it hard to miss). The
gallery itself comprises an impressive 2,500 square metres
divided into three halls, the largest of which wouldnt look dis-
similar to a gymnasium if the installation art was swapped for
basketball hoops. Full of seriously bonkers, yet compellingly
high quality sculpture, graphic and installation art by both
local and international artists, exhibitions change regularly
with permanent installations some disturbing, some play-
ful, some political hidden throughout the dozens of small
nooks spidering throughout the building. The closest thing to
a contemporary art museum in Katowice, its an admirable
and highly recommendable venue where the security guards
are noticably as passionate about the art as the owners
must be. Best of all, its free. To get there jump off bus 30
at the Galeria Szyb Wilson stop on ul. Szopienicka, or bus
12 at the Janw Oswobodzenia stop on ul. Lwowska.QOpen
09:00 - 19:00. Admission free.
Nikiszowiec
From the Wilson Gallery it is a short eight minute walk (or one
busstop) down ul. Szopienicka into Nikiszowiec proper; youll
know it by its uniquely uniform architecture, gruesome water
tower, leering smokestacks and the church spire marking its
centre. Built between 1908 and 1912 to house workers in
the backyard of their place of employment the large smoke-
churning Wierczorek (formerly Giesche) coal mine this
enclosed residential complex is composed of nine compact,
polygon-shaped, three-storey blocks with inner courtyards.
Distinguished by its uniformity of style red brick buildings
accented with red-painted windowframing, and narrow streets
joined by handsome arcades the neighbourhood was
designed by Georg and Emil Zillman of Berlin-Charlottenburg
to be a completely self-sufficient community for 1,000 workers
with a school, hospital, police station, post office, swimming
pool, bakery and church. Thanks to WWI and the subsequent
Silesian Uprisings during which time Nikiszowiec saw fierce
fighting, and was afterwards incorporated into Poland St.
Annes Church wasnt able to be finished until 1927, but it
became the crowning glory of the neighbourhood as soon
as it was. A welcome diversion from the smokestacks
dominating the roofline of the districts other side, this
magnificent building incorporates Baroque design with two
belltowers and a timepieced steeple, while blending into its
surroundings without any of the ghastly and gratuitous exterior
decoration associated with the style; make sure you take a
stroll down ul. w. Anny for the most photogenic views. If
youre lucky enough to get inside, take notice of the amazing
5,350 pipe organ and highly ornate Zillman chandelier.
Though it would ironically seem be a socialist planners wet
dream, Nikiszowiec actually makes a happy, handsome
departure from the communist botch-j ob of downtown
Katowice and has become a prized location for amateur
photographers and budding filmmakers due to the fact that it
has remained virtually unchanged since the Second World War.
Ul. Krawczyka 5 (Nikiszowiec), tel. (+48) 32253 78
53, www.pttk.katowice.pl.QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, sat
10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun. Note that from September
Tourist Info may move to new premises at ul.Rymarska 4.
Tourist Information
Printed with the consent of Katowice City Council
8
WORKERS PARADISE
Plans are now afoot to fasten it to the UNESCO Heritage List
and a branch of the Katowice History Museum is already in
the developing stages. At ul. Krawczyka 5 visitors will find
a small Tourist Information office, where the sweet lady
working there will be overjoyed to see you and ask you 47
questions in Polish, in rapid succession, as you enter your
name in the guestbook and try to explain that you dont
understand anything shes saying; its also a good place
to pick up a handy free map and some information about
the area. Though the district is generally safe to wander,
obviously you should still exercise sensible precautions about
where you stick both your nose and that fancy new digital
camera; and who you do it in front of.
Despite supposedly being a self-sufficient community that
has now grown to over 7,000 people and expanded to include
an ice rink, one walk-in convenience store which serves
coffee (Pl. Wyzwolenia 7) and a hairdresser, youll only find
one restaurant in Nikiszowiec (SITG on ul. Krawczyka 1).
Hence our recommendation of packing a lunch, or head on
to Giszowiec where youll easily find a collection of cheap
places to eat. To get there, head back to ul. Szopienicka
and catch the bus for a few stops until you arrive at the next
populated area.
Giszowiec
While Nikiszowiec is a refreshing, at times fascinating, highly
photogenic adventure out of downtown Katowice, we cant
pretend to promote the same thing about its fraternal twin
Giszowiec. While equally unique and unexpected, unlike
Nikiszowiec, Giszowiec simply isnt what it once was. Thats
not to say arent a few places of note, however. Another
workers colony from the same sibling pair behind Nikiszowiec,
in the case of Giszowiec the Zillmans took a completely
different conceptual approach, designing an ideal garden city
for local miners based on the ideas of famous British urban
planner Ebenezer Howard. Modelled on rural English cottages,
the original dwellings of Giszowiec are low, freestanding,
sloped roof houses surrounded by garden plots. Built between
1906 and 1910, the neighbourhood was arranged as a web
of streets extending from Plac Pod Lipami the central
square surrounded by public buildings, shops, a restaurant,
school and tavern. The project included a public laundry, a
womens bathhouse, theatre, quarantine barracks for the
diseased, a prison and a strict set of guidelines to ensure
the precious English village atmosphere wouldnt be lost;
these included statutes governing everything from which
garden plants could be grown to which animals could be
kept. Possession of a goat, for instance, would be enough to
see you expelled from this Utopian colony. Originally built for
workers at the Wieczorek coal mine, when the new Staszic
coal mine opened nearby in 1964 additional dwellings had
to be provided and the minds of the day decided to demolish
their ideal garden city in favour ten-storey apartment blocks
fashioned out of pre-cast concrete slabs (as you do). The
result was the labyrinth of hideous tower blocks you see
when you arrive at Giszowiec today. In 1978 the destruction
was stopped when some clever conservator decided to try
and enter the urban structure of Giszowiec into the Registry
of Historic Places; he succeeded, but only after two-thirds of
the original buildings had been demolished, the charm of the
remaining third being utterly overshadowed by the soulless
new buildings surrounding them. As such, a trip to Giszowiec
today entails steeling your stomach through the maze of
concrete monoliths at its northern edge in order to reach the
centre square where youll find the Municipal Cultural Centre
and Pod Lipami restaurant (food?!) sharing the main building,
as well as the Gawlikwka - a small gallery dedicated to the
art of late native folk painter Ewald Gawlik. En route youll
pass a few of the original cottage dwellings, and while well
admit theyre charming, if youve ever seen a rural residential
neighbourhood during your lifetime, theres not a whole lot
to remark about them (O look, this one has flowers. O look,
this one looks just like that one!). Undoubtedly the most
interesting building in the area is the old schoolhouse at Plac
Pod Lipami 2, which still functions as a kindergarten. With a
metal stag head and cross (Jagermeister, anyone?) adorning
the clock-tower and yard full of playground equipment, the
building possesses a spooky evocative power, particularly at
nightfall when the clock-face suddenly becomes as luminous
as a full moon.
The afore-mentioned Gawlikwka at Plac Pod Lipami
3 is also worth a quick visit (09:00 and 17:00 by prior
arrangement only. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission 15z. tel. (+48)
32 206 46 42), but if Gawliks canvases of rural Silesian life
capture your interest, the largest collection of his work is
actually elsewhere in the district curiously enough inside
a tiny hairdresser at ul. Pod Kasztanami 34 (Open 08:00
- 17:00, Sat 07:00 - 12:00. Closed Tue, Sun). If you have to
choose between the two, we heartily recommend the latter,
the interior of which makes it a museum in more ways than
one. Apparently frozen in carbonite since the 1950s, the
old school chrome hairdryers and bright pink and green
walls inexplicably cluttered with colourful canvases, antique
mirrors and faded photographs make this little salon more of
a traipse back in time than any Giszowiec garden block; best
of all, the woman who works there is welcoming to walk-ins
who want nothing more than to wander around and snap
some hilarious photos. Next door youll even find a rare and
cherished thing known as a bar/restaurant. All told, Giszowiec
stills captures some small town charm, despite being a
shadow of what it must have been. If you enjoy the small
pleasures of being a stranger in a strange land, an excursion
out to these two historic labour communities might just be
the bizarre highlight of your time in Silesia.
10
ARRIVING & TRANSPORT
11
By Bus
To call Katowice Bus Station (C-2, ul. Skargi 1) a bus station
is a bit of a misnomer. In reality travellers will find themselves
faced with a small tin shed; give a child ten minutes with some
Lego pieces and they are sure to construct something more
durable. Its in here youll find a small waiting room, a Eurolines
counter and all departures (odjazdy) and arrival times (przy-
jazdy) noted up on the board. Outside the few departure lanes
offer no shelter from the elements. A toilet stands outside with
insistent old ladies charging 2z for the displeasure of using
their facilities. The good news is that you find yourself in the
heart of town: all you have to do is walk forward and take a
swift left turn at ul. Mickiewicza (C-2) and within three min-
utes youll find yourself staring at the principal main street, ul.
Stawowa (C-2). Youll have to go further onto the Rynek (C-3)
to find the nearest tourist information point, however. While it
doesnt offer tickets or phone cards, it does offer maps and
advice and there is also internet there. If you want to buy a
phone card or to connect to the Polish mobile network youll
need to go to one of the many kiosks dotted around. For info
on local city buses see Public Transport.
Bus Station (Dworzec Autobusowy Katowice)
C-2, ul. Skargi 1, tel. (+48) 32 258 94 65, www.pks-
katowice.pl. Q Ticket Office Open 05:30 - 20:30. From
August open 06:15-17:45.
By Car
Poland is one of Europes leading nations in road fatalities,
a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure
of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road
surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different traffic
and, most of all, frustrated and aggressive driver behavior
result in the common sight of mangled wrecks around the
country. Be cautious and keep a safe distance between
you and the vehicle in front. The speed limit in Poland is
generally 50km/hr in cities (60km/hr between 23:00 and
05:00), 90km/hr outside urban areas, 120km/hr on dual
carriageways and 140km/hr on motorways. All cars must
have their headlights
switched on at all times and carry a red warning triangle, first
aid kit, replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker and
proper registration and insurance documents. Poland also
has strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2% is the maximum blood/
alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single beer. You
can use your home driving license or an international driving
permit for six months from the entry date on your passport.
Carry your license and passport at all times when driving.
Katowice is a straight 75km drive west from Krakw along
the A4 highway, one of the better stretches of road in the
country, but its smooth asphalt doesnt come free. Toll gates
can be found at either end at which you will need to pay 8z
if driving a car. This brings you in on Al. Grnolska (F-5).
The other major route in will bring you along route 79 onto
ul. Chorzowska (B-1). Driving around Katowice can be a bit
hellish for those uninitiated to the complexity of the citys one-
way streets and the constant presence of roadwork, so we
recommend you ditch your vehicle at the earliest opportunity.
Car crime is not unheard of and youll be safest leaving your
ride in one of the guarded parking lots listed below. Street
parking is also available and generally operates under the
control of a local parking warden. He will be wandering along
his patch wearing a bib of some colour and will charge you
around 1.50zl per hour to park.
Guarded Parking B-3, ul. Korfantego 35a (entrance
from ul. Olimpijska).
An extremely well developed system of trams and buses
operated by the wonderfully named KZK GOP provide a
simple and fast way of getting around Katowice and its
surrounding towns. The tickets for the network are valid
for both buses and trams. A three-zone system is used, of
which Katowice is in zone-one and Chorzw in zone-two.
Accordingly, a one-zone ticket is required for the former
and a two-zone ticket for travelling between the two. A
one-zone ticket costs 2.80z and a two-zone ticket costs
3.40z. There is also a three-zone ticket available for 4.20z
and this ticket also doubles as a one-hour ticket allowing
you to swap forms of transport (bus to tram and onto a
different tram for instance) during the course of an hour. A
14z 24hr ticket allows travel within all three zones, though
its hard to imagine getting your moneys worth out of this
without spending the whole day on the tram. Though, we
admit, theres not much reason to get off.
Almost all travel within Katowice and Chorzw can be
accomplished using trams, most of which run through
the stop at the Rynek. Tram number 6 runs between the
Rynek and Chorzw via the Park of Culture & Recreation
and is the most useful tram for getting there and back.
Tickets can be bought from any kiosk, or from bright
yellow machines found at many tram stops around the
city. Make sure you validate tickets when entering the
tram or bus. The penalty for riding without a validated
ticket is 80z on the spot.
Katowice Public Transport Company (KZK
GOP), tel. (+48) 32 743 84 46, www.kzkgop.com.pl.
Public Transport
As far as first impressions
go, Katowice has always
gotten i tsel f of f on the
wrong foot with visitors.
That was undoubtedl y
the fault of the city train
station - a trul y ghastl y
abomination sheltering all
manner of strange smells,
dubious characters and seriously bad juju, instantly giving
credence to anyones prior trepidation. Completed in 1972,
this concrete monstrosity was a textbook example of the
architectural trend aptly known as brutalism and long
divided locals between those who despised it for being an
ugly, inefficient use of space, and those who regarded the
graceless building as a architectural artefact so unique it
should be forever preserved as a monument to bad taste.
Fortunately the former camp prevailed and designs were
approved for the complete reinvention of Katowices train
station. With total investment in the project estimated at
240 million Euros, the new station plans to handle 9 mil-
lion passengers per year with 520 trains running through
it every 24 hours. The development will incorporate a
large shopping complex and underground parking lot,
with additional shopping and entertainment venues on
Szewczyk Square. There will also be a re-routing of many
streets in the surrounding area in order to create a fully
integrated transport hub.
What this means for travellers is that the whole area is
going to be a major construction site until the station is
completed, something which is pencilled in for the 2nd
quarter of 2012 (the 135,000 m2 shopping gallery is due
to be finished by the end of 2012 and the office space
by 2013). During this time the bulk of the main station
will be closed and a temporary train station (Dworzec
Tymczasowy) within part of the existing complex will
be in use. This can be reached from Plac Oddziaw
Modziey Powstaczej (D-2) on the opposite side of the
station from the old main entrance and via Pl. Oddziaw
Modziey Powstaczej and ul. Tadeusza Kociuszki. In
the temporary station travellers can find all the same
facilities of the main building - cash machines, toilets, an
information point, ticket windows, etc. - albeit crammed
into a much smaller space. As such, we stress that those
travelling from Katowice by train should allow themselves
some extra time to deal with the potential for extended
queues, confusion and disorientation resulting from the
construction works. If pressed for time, remember that
tickets can be bought onboard the train from the conduc-
tor for a small price mark-up.
The sole advantage of Katowices train station is its
location, right in the centre of town with taxis and buses
waiting just outside the entrance. Several direct trains
run daily between Krakw and Katowice, taking about
120 minutes to make the journey. It is also possible to
travel between the cities of the Katowice conglomeration
by local train: starting at 04:57 and running until 22:38,
trains run 3 to 4 times per hour from platforms 1 and 2;
the trip to Zabrze is about 25 minutes, to Gliwice 35 min-
utes,. Station departure boards (odjazdy) are indicated by
their yellow timetables while arrivals (przyjazdy) are white.
Katowice Train Station (Katowice Dworzec
Kol ej owy) D- 2, Pl . Oddzi a w M odzi ey
Powstaczej, tel. (+48) 197 57, www.pkp.pl. Q
Open 24hrs.
The Train Station By Plane
Katowice International Airport is located 34km north east of
Katowice in Pyrzowice, with frequent shuttle bus connections
to and from Katowice. Two terminals, A and B, are situated
side by side. Both feature spotless toilets, exchange counters,
ATMs, refreshment stops, pharmacy and car rental counters.
There is an airport information point on the first floor of terminal
A. Phones can be found in terminals A and B and you can buy
cards for them at the Relay news kiosk there. Taxis wait directly
outside and can deliver you to Katowice for 100 - 150z. Nu-
merous shuttle buses also make the same journey, including
Wizzair mini-buses with times coordinated to arriving flights
(23z to Katowice, 50z to Krakw). The most frequent line
is Linia Lotnisko with departures to the Katowice train station
every day at 01:15, 03:10, 06:30, 08:30, 10:00, 10:45, 11:45,
12:30, 13:40, 14:40, 15:30, 17:15, 18:15, 19:40, 20:45 (doesnt
run Saturday), 21:15 (Saturday only), 23:00 and 00:00; buses
also stop at the Novotel hotel (C-3). Note that bus schedules
can be found at www.pkm.katowice.pl and not via the airport
website. Tickets are purchased from the driver at a cost of
23z one-way, children 4-10 12z; 24hr return tickets 28z,
30 - day return tickets 37z. While the train station is under
construction buses to the airport will leave from Pl. Andrzeja
behind the station on the hour, every hour between 02:15 and
23:30. Full schedules for buses and flights, as well as other
essential travel information can be found at the user-friendly
www.katowice-airport.com.
Katowice International Airport (Miedzynarodowy
Port Lotniczy w Katowicach) ul. Wolnoci 90, Pyrzo-
wice, tel. (+48) 32 392 72 00, www.katowice-airport.com.
PKP
12
13
BASICS
Territory
Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometers
and is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders
the Baltic Sea (528km) and seven countries, namely
Belarus (416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany
(467km), the mysterious Russian exclave of Kaliningrad
(210km), Li thuania (103km), Slovakia (539km) and
Ukraine (529km).
Longest River
The river Vistula (Wisa) is Polands longest river at
1,047km and flows through Krakow and Warsaw before
reaching the Bay of Gdask (Zatoka Gdaska).
Highest Point
The highest peak is Rysy (2,499m) in the Tatra Mountains
along the southern border with Slovakia. In comparison,
Katowices landscape rolls a bit more gently with the
citys elevation between 266-352m above sea level.
Population (2009)
Poland - 38.135.876
Warsaw - 1.709.781
Krakw - 754.624
d - 747.152
Wrocaw - 632.162
Pozna - 557.264
Gdask - 455.581
Katowice - 309.621
Sopot - 38.821
Local time
Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone
(GMT+1hr). When its 12:00 in Katowice its 05:00 in
Chicago, 06:00 in New York City, 11:00 in London, 12:00
in Paris and Berlin and 19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer
time (GMT+2hrs) starts and ends on the last Sundays
of March and October.
Twin Towns
Cologne, Donetsk, Groningen, Koice, Miskolc, Mobile
(USA), Odense, Opava, Ostrava, Saint-tienne, South
Dublin, Shenyang
Basic Data
Customs
If you are travelling within the EU those over 18 can now take
10L of spirits, 90L of wine and 110L of beer. Most countries
will not allow more than 800 cigarettes from Poland. A work
of art produced before 1945 is classified as a cultural good
and must be authorized before it can leave the country. If
the gallery or shop cant supply the zawiadczenie (permis-
sion) when you buy the artwork, check with the Wojewdzki
Konserwator Zabytkw (Regional Curators Office). If a book
was printed before 1945, youll need permission from the
National Library to take it out of Poland.
Electricity
Electricity in Poland is 230V, 50Hz AC. Plug sockets are
round with two round-pin sockets. Therefore i f you are
coming from the US, UK or Ireland you are definitely going
to need a plug convertor. The best place to pick these up
is at home, though i f you arrive without one try your hotel
concierge or reception; they should be able to point you to
the nearest electrical store i f they fail to provide a conver-
tor themselves.
Dollar Thrifty Rent a Car ul. Wolnoci 90, Pyrzowice
(Airport), tel. (+48) 662 66 22 99, www.dollar-rentacar.
pl. Also at ul. Gen. Jankego 15B, tel. (+48) 662 20 82 08,
Open 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00,
Wed, Fri 09:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.
Express A-1, ul. Chorzowska 107 (Silesia City Center), tel.
(+48) 12 197 79, www.express.pl. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00.
Hertz ul. Wolnoci 90, Pyrzowice (Airport), tel. (+48)
32 284 51 03, www.hertz.com.pl. The Hertz brand is well
establised in Poland and rental points can be found thorughout
the country offering a full range of cars including people carriers
and small mini-buses. Also at (C-3) Al. Korfantego 2. tel. 32 259
99 47. Open Mon - Fri 08:00 - 16:00. Outside of these hours on
request.QOpen 08:30 - 20:30, Tue, Thu 08:30 - 22:00, Fri 08:30
- 21:30. Sat 11:30 - 14:30, 19:00 - 22:00. Sun 15:00 - 18:00.
Taxis
Taxis are more honest than they were once were in Poland but
it still pays to be on your guard especially when getting into a
taxi at the main train station or airport. Make sure you choose
a clearly marked taxi with a phone number displayed as well
as a sticker showing its prices which you should find in the
window. Check the price with the driver before setting off and
make sure he turns his meter on. Taxis are now legally obliged
to give you a printed receipt for your journey. Most firms will
charge you 7z to get in and then a further 3z per kilometre
when travelling in the city. Travelling outside of city limits
and at night is likely to cost up to 50% more than normal.
City Taxi tel. (+48) 32 196 27, www.ufotaxi.pl.
Radio Taxi tel. (+48) 32 191 91, www.taxi19191.com.
Silesia Cars tel. (+48) 32 300 00 00, www.silesiacars.pl.
Tele Taxi tel. (+48) 32 196 21,
www.tele-taxikatowice.pl.
Car Rental
Avis E-2, ul. Powstacw
12, tel. (+48) 601 35 48 12,
www.avis.pl. Avis is Polands
biggest car rental company and offers an complete range
of vehicles for rent throughout Poland. Also at Katowice
Airport - Pyrzowice, tel 32 284 51 08. Open 09:00 - 00:30.
QOpen 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Europcar B-2, ul.
Chorzowska 50, tel.
(+48) 32 209 57
45, www.europcar.
pl. Europcar offers a full range of vehicles from small
hatchbacks, through Mercedes and up to mini-bus and
vans. Check the website for additional offers. Also at
Katowice Airport - Pyrzowice, tel. 32 284 50 86, Open
09:00 - 23:30.QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
The offices can be staffed outside of these hours for
extra payment.
Joka C-3, Al. Korfan-
tego 9 (Katowice Ho-
tel), tel. (+48) 32 350
14 50/(+48) 601 54
53 67, www.joka.com.pl. A wide range of cars from
the baby Ford Fiesta to the spacious Audi A6. Satellite
navigation systems available. Order through the website
for special rates. Q Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 -
12:00. Sun open on request.
Health & Emergency
In case of an emergency those dialling from a land line or
public phone should use the following numbers: 999 for
an ambulance, 998 for the fire brigade and 997 for the
police. Mobile phone users should call 112 to be forwarded
to the relevant department. English speaking assistance
is not necessarily guaranteed, and rests on the linguistic
capabilities of the operator.
Between June 1st and September 30th however, English,
German and Russian speakers have the option of using
a separate line speci fi call y desi gned for forei gners in
distress: dial 800 200 300 from a land-line or 608 599
999 from a mobile phone for troubles during high-tourist
season.
If youve woken up to find youve got a raging headache, a
swollen foot you cant put weight on and vague memories of
some kind of calamity, we suggest you sort it out by calling
a private clinic, thus avoiding the hassle of the notoriously
long queues in Polish hospitals; a list of private clinics can
be found in the Directory in the back of this guide. Further
help can be provided by embassies and consulates, a list
of which can also be found in the Directory. If its a financial
emergency your hopes will rest on a Western Union money
transfer. Most banks and many exchange bureaus (kantors)
can now carry out such transactions, just keep an eye out
for the Western Union logo.
Jaywalking
A peculiar sight you might come across, particularly if you are
from a country which has no (or doesnt respect) jaywalking
laws, is that of a crowd of people standing obediently at a
crossing waiting for the lights to change. This peculiarity
has extra effect if you are aware of how little Poles respect
the rules of the road in a vehicle, where it often feels like a
survival of the fittest. The reason for the obedience of this
particular rule is the fact that the local city police (Stra
Miejska) will quite freely give you a 50z fine for crossing a
road at a place where no crossing is marked or a 100z fine
when the walk light is red. And dont think you are exempt
by being a foreign visitor. You are subject to the law too and
your non-residency means you will need to pay the fine on
the spot (the helpful chaps will even accept foreign currency).
Money
Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the 100z
notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops, newsagents,
public toilets, even the occasional fast food franchise and bar
will often refuse to break a large note for you. As annoying
as coins can be, do carry small change for such moments.
Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and
anywhere with a sign proclaiming Kantor. Kantors will often
provide better value than the banks in your home country
or the ATM although for obvious reasons be very wary of
Kantors in the airports, bus stations and close to tourist
sights. Shopping around will reward you with the best rate.
Since EU ascension and becoming a favoured tourist desti-
nation, prices in Poland have been on the rise, making the
country less of a bargain than it was five years ago. Having
said that, however, prices for food, drink, cultural venues
and transport still remain comparably cheap in contrast
to Western Europe. In fact, in comparison to other Polish
cities like Warsaw and Krakw, prices in Katowice and the
rest of Silesia are a downright bargain. Generally, a ticket to
the theatre or cinema will rarely cost more than 20z while
admission to most museums costs about 5-10z.
14
BASICS
15
BASICS
especially on the routes connecting Warsaw and Krakw
with Prague and Berlin; book a couchette or a sleeper cabin
i f possible. Also avoid being ripped off by opportunistic taxi
gits by using clearly marked cabs, something to bear in mind
around the train station and airport. Generally, the vagrants
and pondli fe that gather around the Kato train station are
harmless and easily ignored.
Toilets
Generally speaking, toilets in Poland come marked with
a circle for women and a triangle for men. Some
restaurants and bars still charge a nominal fee for use of
their facilities - no matter how much cash youve already
spent in the establishment. This is a practice also used in
train stations and most public conveniences. Keep small
change handy.
Water
Though officially stamped as safe to drink, hypochondriacs
and others with a weak constitution may want to avoid drink-
ing Polish tap water; indeed, despite it never giving us any
problems, the locals still regularly scold us for drinking from
the tap. The plumbing in many buildings can also affect the
water quality, so to play it safe we recommend you just drink
bottled water, which is widely available and inexpensive.
Many Poles, particularly younger people, have a fairly healthy
command of the English language. Many will also be adept at
other European languages with German being the most commonly
spoken. Older Poles will fiercely contest that they have forgotten
the Russian taught to them at school but most will still have a
reasonable understanding.
Mastering the Polish tongue can be a terrifying ordeal and will often
result in personal degradation as shop assistants laugh at your
flustered attempts. That aside, learning a few key phrases will smooth
your time in Poland and may even win you friends and admirers.
On the positive side Polish sounds as it appears. This is a great
help once you know how to pronounce each letter/combination
of letters. Many letters represent the same sounds as they do in
English. Below we have listed those particular to Polish.
Basic pronunciation of Polish vowels
sounds like on in the French bon
sounds like en as in the French bien
is an open o sound like oo in boot
Basic pronunciation of consonants
c like the ts in bits
j like the y in yeah
w is pronounced like the English v
like the w in win
like the ny in canyon
cz and like the ch in beach
dz like the ds in beds
rz and like the su in treasure
sz and like the sh in ship
drz and d like the g in George
r is always rolled and stress is generally always on the last but
one syllable.
Think youve got that? Here are some words and phrases to get
you started.
Civilities
cze (cheshch) hi/bye
dzie dobry ( jen do-bri) good morning/
afternoon
dobry wieczr (do-bri vyeh-choor) good evening
dobranoc (dobrah-nots) good night
tak (tahk) yes
nie (nyeh) no
prosz (prosheh) please
na zdrowie (nah zdrovyeh) cheers
dzikuje ( jen-koo-yeh) thank you
przepraszam (psheh-prasham) sorry
kocham ci (koham tshe) I love you
Mam na imi (mam nah ee-myeh) My name is
Jestem z Anglii (yehstem zanglee) I am from England
Necessities
Gdzie s toalety? (gdjeh song toalety) Where are the toilets?
Czy mwi pan/pani
po angielsku?
(che moovee
pan/panee po
angyelskoo?)
Do you (male/female)
speak English?
Nie mwi po
polsku
(nyeh moovyeh po
polskoo)
I dont speak Polish
Prosz to napisa (prosheh toh
napeesatch)
Please write it down
Czy mona tu pali (che mohzhnah too
paleech?)
Can I smoke here?
Jedno piwo
poprosz
(yedno peevo poh-
prosheh)
One beer please
Numbers
1 jeden yehden
2 dwa dva
3 trzy tshi
10 dziesi jayshench
General
Airport lotnisko
Train station dworzec pkp
Bus station dworzec pks
Right/left prawo/lewo
One ticket to jeden bilet do
First/second class pierwsza/druga klasa
Language Smarts
PLN US$ Euro Pound
2.78z = $1 3.98z = 1 4.50z = 1
1 z $0.36 0.25 0.22
2 z $0.72 0.50 0.44
3 z $1.08 0.75 0.67
4 z $1.44 1.01 0.89
5 z $1.80 1.26 1.11
6 z $2.16 1.51 1.33
7 z $2.52 1.76 1.56
8 z $2.88 2.01 1.78
9 z $3.24 2.26 2.00
10 z $3.60 2.51 2.22
20 z $7.19 5.03 4.44
50 z $17.99 12.56 11.11
100 z $35.97 25.13 22.22
150 z $53.96 37.69 33.33
200 z $71.94 50.25 44.44
250 z $89.93 62.81 55.56
1 000 z $359.71 251.26 222.22
Quick Currency Convertor
Religion
For over one thousand years Poland has been a bulwark
of Catholicism, fighting against the horrors of pagan inva-
sions and looking to Catholicism for a sense of social and
national unity. When Poland was partitioned in the 19th
century, many turned to the church for solace and during
the communist era, underground resistance meetings
were surrepti ti ousl y hel d i n churches. The deceased
Polish-born Pope John Paul II remains a genuine source of
pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way more profound
than cynics in the West can understand. Many Poles genu-
inely believe that John Paul II single-handedly started the
overthrow of Communism in Central and Eastern Europe.
Small wonder then, that your average Pole takes Catholi-
cism very seriously. Those used to the more easy-going
habits of the West may find the Polish enthusiasm a bit
unnerving at first, particularl y the solemn and opulent
processions that occur from time to time and the droves
that flock to mass.
Safety
In general Katowice is far safer than most Western cities,
and visitors are unlikely to face any problems. Petty crime
does exist however, and travellers should be aware of where
their wallet is, guarding against pickpockets and opportun-
ists. Those travelling by car are advised to use a guarded
car park. Robberies on overnight trains are not unheard of,
Pri ces i n Poland are still fai rl y competi ti ve despi te
increases over the last couple of years particularly in
the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday
products and prices.
Market values as of 21st June 2011 based on
1 = 3.98z
Product Price (z) Price ()
MacDonald's Big Mac 8.90 z 2.24
Snickers 1.39 z 0.35
0.5ltr vodka (shop) 21.90 z 5.50
0.5ltr beer (shop) 2.89 z 0.73
0.5ltr beer (bar) 7.00 z 1.76
Loaf of white bread 2.29 z 0.58
20 Marlboros 11.80 z 2.96
1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98) 5.37 z 1.35
Local transport ticket (1 journey) 2.60 z 0.65
Market Values
Internet Cafes
Caf Kontakt C-2, ul. Stawowa 3, tel. (+48) 513
01 35 73, www.cafekontakt.net. A centrally located
industrial-look place with several fast machines, CD burn-
ing and photocopying services. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00,
Sun 10:00 - 22:00. 4z per hour.
WIC C-2, ul. Opolska 5, tel. (+48) 32 259 95 23,
www.siec.wic.pl. Twenty-six machines inside a court-
yard, staffed by young lads in black jeans and pony tails
and frequented by kids gaming their pocket money away.
Best visit here in the evening when everyones at home
doing their homework. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. 4z per hour.
Post
A bureaucratic nightmare buried under incomprehensible
paperwork, there is no indication that Polands postal ser-
vice - Poczta Polska - will be automated or computerised
during our lifetimes. There can be no doubt that the post
office is one of the most frustrating places to be a foreigner
in Poland, as youre guaranteed to not understand a damn
thing happening there. Your best ally is the person in line next
to you; if theres one person in the room who speaks not a
word of English, its the qualified clerk at the service window.
Also, dont expect any signs to feature English translations,
though all paperwork has been mystifyingly translated into
French (and only French). When you get to the head of that
insufferably long queue, dont be surprised to be sent to
another or back to the end, paperwork in hand.
If sending something of any monetary or sentimental value,
please, make sure you do so by using priority mail or better;
magic word: Priorytet. Choosing the cheapest overseas
option available will ensure that your package is used as
a football, opened and resealed with or without all of its
contents before it arrives after a minimum 90-day journey.
Were not exaggerating, and, yes, we are still very angry.
There are several post offices around Katowice, with the main
building at ul. Pocztowa 9 (D-3) being the largest and most
incomprehensible. All post offices close early on Saturday, if
open at all, and all will be closed Sunday. Good luck, gringo.
Central Post Office D-3, ul. Pocztowa 9, tel. (+48)
801 33 34 44, www.poczta-polska.pl. If youre in
need of stamps, they can be purchased at any of the
windows. However there is no organised queuing system
so sharpen your elbows and brace yourself for the fight
of your life. Q Open 24hrs.
Mailboxes Etc. E-2, ul. Sobieskiego 11, tel. (+48)
32 760 94 47, www.mbe.com.pl. A great alternative to
the post office, this city centre shop offers UPS and FedEX
shipping services. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Public Phones
Never there when you need one, and then rarely in operating
order. Still if you dont have a phone and need to contact
someone, this may be your only option. Phones can be found
at the train station and post offices, otherwise its a scaven-
ger hunt. In order to use them, public phone cards with the
required electronic chip in them can be purchased at most
kiosks by uttering the words, Prosz kart telefoniczn.
Public phone cards run out of credit very quickly if calling to
a cell phone, so if you intend to make multiple calls, make
sure you buy one with enough credit. For cheap international
calls there are many different calling cards available, the
most popular being Telegrosik (available at most kiosks,
gas stations, supermarkets and post offices) and Telerabat
(available at Kolporter kiosks and the post office).
Mail & Phones
Institute of Meteorology and Water Management,
www.imgw.pl
Climate
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
R
a
in
fa
ll (m
m
)
0
2
4
6
8
10
12
14
16
18
20
T
e
m
p
e
r
a
tu
r
e
(
C
)
Rainfall
Temperature
August 15 Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary,
also Polish Army Day
November 1 All Saints Day
November 11 Independence Day (Nov 11, 1918)
December 25 First Day of Christmas
December 26 Second Day of Christmas
January 1 New Years Day
January 6 Three Kings
April 8, 2012 Easter Sunday
April 9, 2012 Easter Monday
May 1 Labour Day
May 3 Constitution Day (May 3, 1791)
May 27, 2012 Pentecost Sunday
June 7, 2012 Corpus Christi
National Holidays, 2011
16
CULTURE & EVENTS
17
CULTURE & EVENTS
When Poles think of Katowice and culture, the Spodek
looms large. Its the largest indoor arena in the country and
whenever A list acts arrive, it is here that they play. Other
attractions for the classically minded include the Polish Na-
tional Radio Symphony orchestra which is based here. Other
venues number the Upper Silesian Cultural Centre, Silesian
Philharmonic and the Silesian Museum - all worth looking up.
Festival goers should check out Mayday, Metalmania Rawa
Blues and the Jazz and Beyond Festival.
Cinemas
Cinema City Silesia A-1, Silesia City Center, ul. Chor-
zowska 107, tel. (+48) 32 605 05 55, www.cinema-city.
pl. Q Box office open from 09:30 to 15 minutes after last
show. Tickets 16-28z.
Helios C-3, ul. Uniwersytecka 13, tel. (+48) 32 603
01 05, www.heliosnet.pl. Q Box office open depending
on repertoire. Tickets 16-28z.
Cultural Centres
Spodek B-3, Al. Korfantego 35, tel. (+48) 32 258 32
61, www.spodek.com.pl.QBox office open depending
on repertoire.
Galleries
BWA Gallery of Contemporary Art (Galeria Sztuki
Wspczesnej BWA) C-3, Al. Korfantego 6, tel. (+48)
32 259 90 40, www.bwa.katowice.pl.QOpen 10:00 -
18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5.50/3z.
Rondo Sztuki B-3, Rondo gen. Zitka 1, tel. (+48) 32
720 11 32, www.rondosztuki.pl. QOpen 11:00 - 19:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.
Wilson Shaft Gallery (Galeria Szyb Wilson) ul. Oswo-
bodzenia 1 (Janw-Nikiszowiec), tel. (+48) 32 730 32 20,
www.szybwilson.org.QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. Admission free.
Opera Stages
Silesian Opera (Opera lska) Bytom, ul. Moniuszki
21-23, tel. (+48) 32 281 34 31, www.opera-slaska.
pl.Q Box office open 10:00 - 18:30. Sun two hours before
performance. Closed until September. Tickets 10-50z. A
Philharmonic
Silesian Philharmonic (Filharmonia lska) Sports
Hall, ul Pszczyska 6 (Giszowiec), tel. (+48) 32 351
17 13, www.filharmoniaslaska.art.pl.QBox office (C-2,
Opolska 9) open 10:00 - 13:00, 14:00 - 17:00 and always
two hours before performance in Sports Hall. Tickets 5-110z.
Concerts
17.09 Saturday
Joan as Police Woman
B- 3, Rondo Sztuki, Rondo gen. Zitka 1, tel. (+48)
32 720 11 32, www.rondosztuki.pl. Ameri can violin-
ist Joan Wasser will per form in Katowi ce as part of the
cul tural cel ebrati ons to mark Polands UE presi dency.
Before she started the proj ect Joan as Poli ce Woman
in 2002, she was part of The Dambuil ders and shared
her tal ent wi th Lou Reed, Tany Donel l y, Sheryl Crow,
Dave Gahan, El ton John, Sci ssor Si sters, Antony and
Polish National Radio Symphony Orchestra
(Koncerty Narodowej Orkiestry Symfonicznej
Polskiego Radia) E-3, Pl. Sejmu lskiego 2, tel.
(+48) 32 251 89 03, www.nospr.org.pl. Considered
the leading Polish orchestra, the Polish National Radio
Symphony Orchestra was founded in 1935 in Warsaw. In
September 2000 Joanna Wnuk-Nazarowa became the
general and programme director. In January 2009 Jacek
Kaspszyk became the Music Director. For years the
Orchestra acted as a cultural ambassador representing
Poland on the international art scene and has cooper-
ated with some of the greatest composers of the 2nd
half of the 20th century presenting first performances
of their works. They have also recorded more than 190
compact discs for many Polish and foreign labels (Decca,
EMI, Phillips, etc.). A must for all classical buffs, the latest
programme is as follows:
14.10 Thurday, 19:30 - Concert
Conductor Jacek Kaspszyk, soloist Beata Biliska per-
form Franz Schubert - Symphony no. 4 Tragic, Wojciech
Kilar - Piano concerto no. 2, a world premiere and Richard
Strauss - Symphonic poem Death and Transfiguration
Q Box office open two days before scheduled event,
15:00 - 17:00. Tickets 15-65z.
17.06 Friday - 17.08 Wednesday
Art Naif Festival
Event takes place in various locations. Check
description for more information., www.artnaif-
festiwal.pl. With this being the fourth edition, the Art
Nai f Festival is becoming a regular highpoint in the
Katowice and its Nikiszowiec district cultural calendar
and the Wilson Shaft Gallery has made space for all
fans of art naif. It translates as naive art - as in folk or
outsider art by self-taught artists. Said to be the only
large scale event in Europe of its kind, it offers a forum for
amateur art. It is also seen by many to be one of the most
important new festivals in Poland, each year a theme
is focused on and this time round the spotlight falls on
Cuban culture. Each year the festival works with artists
from different parts of world and despite their different
roots, their perception of the world is quite similar, they
often tap into our childlike sensitivity. The organisers
have invited 160 artists, including 40 from Cuba and 70
from other foreign counties and the centre of events will
be the Wilson Shaft Gallery, ul. Oswobodzenia 1 (09:00
- 19:00) where the main exhibition will be on show. Also
in the Wilson Shaft, every Wednesday until 13th July,
there are artistic workshops for children from 10:00 till
14:00. Admission is free, to register call 32 730 32 20.
Besides Cuban works the venue will host an exhibition
of Polish sculpture with folklore and religious themes,
made in lime wood. Another interesting exhibition should
be at Galeriobar KATO, ul. Mariacka 13, D-3, where the
author presents Cuban cities and their exceptional old
motor cars. Expect lots of Cadillacs, Chrystlers and
other American, and even British, cars from the pre-
revolutionary era. There will also be Soviet cars, the mix
is so varied that its small wonder theres no need for a
motor car museum in Cuba, the streets perform that
functions with mechanics working miracles to keep these
classics on the road. On July 10th at Osiedle Nikiszowiec
Rynek theres the Art-Fair with art workshops, concerts
and games for kids, everything starts at 13:30 and
goes on till evening. Until Sunday 3rd July the Silesian
Museum, C-3, Al. Korfantego 3, presents a completely
different exhibition entitled Black On Black or Czarno
na czarnym. It includes graphic art with mining scenes
and tales. Alongside will be photography from the Fer-
dynand coal mine presented in the hall of the Gallery of
Borderland Art. Museum open from 10:00 - 18:00, Thu
10:00 - 19:00, Fri 12:00 - 16:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00, Sun
12:00 - 17:00. Admission 9/4.50z, free on Saturdays.
From July 14th to September 30th the Silesian Museum
presents an exhibition from the cycle Vivat Insitathat
promotes the work of lesser-known artists - this time
its Maria Wnk. Q Admission free.
Radio Symphony Orchestra
Art Naif Festival
Katowice Cultural Centre (Centrum Kultury
Katowice im. Krystyny Bochenek) E-3, Pl.
Sejmu lskiego 2, tel. (+48) 32 251 79 25, www.
ck.art.pl. The Katowice Cultural Centre was founded in
1991 and promotes the development of culture in the
Katowice region and holds educational courses about
the history of art and literature. The centre runs a concert
hall, 5 galleries, an education centre and a chamber
music stage. Jazz i Okolice festival and the Letni Ogrd
Teatralny (The Summer Garden Theatre) are their key
events in the calendar. Q Galleries open 14:00 - 19:00.
Closed Mon. Admission free.
Katowice Cultural Centre
the Johnsons and Rufus Wainwri ght. Q Concert starts
at 19:00. Admission free.
09.10 Sunday
Alexandrov Ensemble
B- 3, Spodek, Al. Korf antego 35, www.spodek.
com.pl. The A.V. Al exandrov Russi an Army twi ce red-
bannered academi c song and dance ensembl e i s a
mal e voi ce choi r, an orchestra and a dance troupe.
They date back to 1928 when they were founded by
Al exander Vasi l yevi ch Al exandrov, composer of the
Sovi et Uni on nati onal anthem, one of my favouri tes.
Wi th a repertoi re of about 2000 songs theyre never
short of an encore or two - Al l power to the Sovi ets!
as they probabl y sti l l say. Q Concert starts at 20:00.
Ti ckets 80-135z. Avai l abl e at EMPi K, ul. Pi otra Skargi
6 (Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00).
14.10 Friday
Ms Triniti
Mikow, Chilli Dance Club, ul. Szafranka 7, tel. (+48)
32 266 55 00. Occupying territory somewhere between
dancehall, reggae and pop, this singer will play in Mikow,
15km from Katowice, as part of her Lockdown Tour 2011.
Although born in London, her roots are in Trinidad & Tobago
and America. She has already toured with the likes of Sean
Paul, Fat Joe, Lil Wayne, Ludacris, T. Pain, Omarion and
Beenie Man and has had her moments with songs like Burnin
Burnin or Lockdown climbing the dance music charts in the
last year. Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets 30z. Available
at www.eventim.pl.
18
CULTURE & EVENTS
19
CULTURE & EVENTS
Exhibitions
23.09 Friday - 27.11 Sunday
22nd Biennale of the Polish Poster
C-3, BWA Gallery of Contemporary Art, Al. Korfantego
6, tel. (+48) 32 259 90 40, www.bwa.katowice.pl.
Poster art is a big deal in this neck of the woods and this is
one of the oldest competitions in Poland focussed on this
area of art. It was organised for the first time in 1965 and the
prestige it created raised the profile of organisers BWA as a
significant artistic centre. Besides the competition there are
exhibitions of work by participating artists, both experienced
and newcomers. Every two years the jury awards the Grand
Prix to the pre-eminent authors of posters with gold, silver
and bronze medals and honorary distinctions also on offer
for exceptional work. The Biennale promotes the poster
as the organisers believe this art is still alive, even though
its purpose and form have changed - the poster has disap-
peared from the streets and is now appearing in galleries
and museums. Q Admission 5.50/3z. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon.
Jacques Lizene
C-3, BWA Gallery of Contemporary Art, Al. Korfantego
6, tel. (+48) 32 259 90 40, www.bwa.katowice.pl.
Jacques Lizen is one of the most interesting Belgian artists.
Along with his idea of fluxus stream he wipes out the borders
between traditionally comprehended art and the prose of
life by creating drawings, collages, photography and video in
parallel. He fuses happenings, painting, experimental poetry
and music and sounds very interesting indeed. Q Admission
5.50/3z. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Festivals
30.07 Saturday - 31.07 Sunday
Ryszard Riedel Music Festival
L-7, Chorzw, WPKiW Mars Fields, www.festiwalryska.
pl. This festival is named after Ryszard Riedel. He was the
leader of blues-rock band Dem who, after years of drug
abuse, died in 1994. This gives the weekend its raison
detres: to listen to good music, to warn about he dangers
associated with drugs and to remind people of Riedels work.
The stars of day one are Polish hard-rock classics TSA as well
as Cree with Riedels son, Sebastian, on vocals. The second
days is always longer and will be opened by The Moongang,
laureates of last years festival. Next up are Normalsi, Adam
Kulisz Trio, Sztywny Pal Azji and things will be wound up by our
genial hosts, Dem. Q Tickets 40-80z. Available at EMPiK,
ul. Piotra Skargi 6 (Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00).
Off Festival 2011
Dolina Trzech Staww, ul. Muchowiec (Muchowiec),
www.off-festival.pl. This is definitely for all fans of a bewil-
dering array of genres from Indie folk, noise rock, dubstep,
jazzcore, exotica, black metal, psychodelica to lounge. Organ-
ised by Artur Rojek of Myslovitz, one of the most recognisable
alternative music bands in Poland, it is about promoting the
music thats new and sometimes difficult and the 6th edi-
tion is bigger and better than ever. Taking place on the fields
of Muchowiec airport, the line-up includes Primal Scream,
Gang Of Four, Mogwai, Ariel Pinks Haunted Graffiti, The Jon
Spencer Blues Explosion, Low, Deerhoof, Liars, Actress, Me-
shuggah, Kury, Czesaw piewa, Abradab, Lech Janerka and
Johnny Rottens band Public Image Inc. Q Tickets 65-120z.
Pass 160-200z. Available at www.eventim.pl.
10.08 Wednesday
Metal Hammer Festival 2011
B-3, Spodek, Al. Korfantego 35, www.metalmind.com.
pl/metalhammerfestival. Point index and little finger
in the air, the Metal Hammer festival is here, I thought all
hammers were metal, but I might be wrong. The star of
the festival will be Judas Priest and this will be their first
and last performance in Poland at the same time. Active
since the end of the 60s, they are living legends of heavy
metal and this concert is a part of their farewell tour, but
hey, if we had a pound for every time metal groups have
retired and then come back... Anyway, its your last chance
to see Halford will enter the stage riding his Harley, wroom
wroom. Also on the line-up position is Vader. Lead by Piotr
Peter Wiwczarek Vader are real concert beasts and spent
almost the whole of 2010 on tour. During the break from
concerts they recorded material for the charming upcoming
Welcome To The Morbid Reich album. Meanwhile Tank
are absolute classics of the New Wave of British Heavy
Metal. During Metal Hammer they will present both their old
hits and tracks from last years War Machine. Metal Angel,
death metal, havent released an album since 2003, so its
about time for something new. Guitarist Trey Azagthoth is
considered to be one of the best in metal music industry. We
have death metal, classical metal and British New Wave so,
obviously, what we need is a trash metal outfit and the gap
will be manfully filled by Exodus. The band was co-founded by
guitarist Gary Holt, drumming vocalist Tom Hunting and Kirk
Hammet. Joe Satrianis student, Hammet took lessons from
Satriani long ago, left the band to form Metallica, but they
did well without him anyway, but their 1985 album Bonded
By Blood is considered as absolute classic of trash metal.
the line-up is completed by Polish Mech, Soulburners and
Animations. Wallop! Q Concert starts at 20:00. Tickets
140-400z. Available at EMPiK, ul. Piotra Skargi 6 (Open
08:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00).
25.08 Thursday - 28.08 Sunday
Tauron New Music Festival
C-4, KWK Katowice, ul. Kopalniana 6, www.festiwal-
nowamuzyka.pl. This festivals location down a coal mine
should create an unusual atmosphere and for 3 days we
will have the chance to see artists that have had the big-
gest influence on electronic music over the past few years.
Proceedings will be opened with a one-off concert by British
trip-hop duo Lamb who have reunited for a summer tour and
to release a new album. The list of artists for the second
day is as long as you like, but Amon Tobin seems to be the
biggest name and he will perform with his project ISAM:Live.
Everything will finish with a gig by Jamie Woon and his soulful
electronics. Q Tickets 50-80z. Pass 130 - 160z. Available
at EMPiK, ul. Piotra Skargi 6 (Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00
- 16:00) and www.ticketpro.pl. Full schedule available atwww.
festiwalnowamuzyka.pl.
Theatre
19.10 Wednesday
Georgian Dance Show Theatre Legacy
P-3, Zabrze, Dom Muzyki i Taca, ul. Gen. de Gaullea
17, tel. (+48) 32 271 66 22, www.dmit.com.pl. The
Tblisi-based Georgian Dance Theatre will visit Poland for the
first time. Founded by Maka and Eka Vacheishvili in 2000, the
group is full of young, talented Georgian dancers performing
pieces which tell the story of each Georgian region. A highlight
came in 2006 when they won the prestigious Golden Eagle
award and golden medals for every member. Q Event starts
at 19:00. Tickets 60-100z. Available at DMiT box office
(Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00).
08.10 Saturday
Rawa Blues Festival
B-3, Spodek, Al. Korfantego 35. Get ready for the
31st Rawa festival. Its the biggest indoor blues event
around and is the brain child of Irek Dudek, a great blues
advocate and musician, who goes by the stage name
of Shakin Dudi.
I n previ ous years thousands of bl ues fans have had
a great ti me l i steni ng to the bi ggest Pol i sh, Ameri -
can and European bl ues acts pl ayi ng 100% l i ve.
The mai n theme of thi s years festi val i s the 40th
anni versary of Al l i gator Records and so per formers
i ncl ude many of thei r roster. The speci al guest of
the festi val wi l l be owner and founder Bruce I gl auer,
who started i t al l i n Chi cago i n 1971. The bi g man
has al ready been to the Rawa i n 1996 when he
was produci ng Koko Tayl or. He l i ked what he saw
i n Spodek, and now hes here agai n to keep an eye
on hi s l abels stars.
Others include Lil Ed & The Blues Imperials, who come
to Katowi ce from Chi cago, the labels home town,
playing guitar in their wild, raw slide style associated
with the Windy City in the 50s. Another guest Marcia
Ball from Austin Connects barrel house music with
New Orleans R&B and Texas Roll, all accompanied
by Balls top notch piano playing. The backwaters of
Louisiana is the motherland of C.J. Chenier & the Red
Hot Louisiana Band who bring the joyful sounds of
the accordion and zydeco washboard. Finally theres
Corey Harris who reaches back to the Delta music
traditions of the 20s and 30s with his wonderful in-
terpretations of classical acoustic blues and his own,
original compositions.
During the festival the Spodek, the venue, will be divided
between two stages. The side stage concerts start
at 11:00 and the line-up goes like this: Cotton Wing,
LOrange Electrique, Crossroads, Woj tek Klich, Juicy
Band, Roadside, Old Wave, The Plants, Wolna Sobota,
Arek Korolik & Maciek Korolik. Meanwhile the gigs on
the main stage gigs start at 15:00 and feature RawaB-
luesBand, Bartek Przytua & Silesian Little Band, The
Moongang, Romek Puchowski, Johnny Coyote, Hilary
Thavis. At 18:00 the stars appear with Shakin Dudi, Lil
Ed & The Blues Imperials, Marcia Ball, C.J. Chenier & Red
Hot Louisiana Band and Corey Harris. The order might
change, so check the website. Q Tickets 55-130z. Avail-
able at EMPiK, ul. Piotra Skargi 6 (Open 08:00 - 20:00,
Sun 10:00 - 16:00).
Rawa Blues Festival
20
WHERE TO STAY
21
WHERE TO STAY
Katowice is first and foremost a business destination for
anyone likely to be reading this guide and while we dont think
thats the way it should be, for the moment thats the way
it is. Reflecting this fact is the presence of an ever expand-
ing choice of business class hotels while the cheaper and
hostel end of the market simply hasnt got off the ground.
Still, you can find some decent budget options especially if
youre willing to lay your head a bit further from the action.
With the business crowd disappearing off home at the end
of the week, most hotels offer substantial discounts over
the weekend. Dont forget that you can now easily compare
hotel rates online thanks to a nifty function on our website
- katowice.inyourpocket.com - that scours booking engines
for the best rates based on your criteria, with results often
well below the rack rates we list here (you can thank us later).
As in other parts of this guide the hotels covered here are
located throughout the conglomeration. If the hotel is not in
Katowice town itself, we have added the name of the town it is
in to the address after a comma along with a map reference
if applicable. Districts of Katowice are shown in brackets.
Bear in mind that all the prices we list below include VAT and
breakfast, unless otherwise noted. Dobranoc!
Cream of the Crop
Monopol D-3, ul. Dworcowa 5, tel. (+48) 32 782
82 82, www.lhr.com.pl. From the original 1903 mosaic
floor in the lobby to the exquisite walnut furniture, Monopol
gets everything right and more. Taking the occasional risk
such as covering the walls in photographs of abandoned
factories, the hotel shows a confidence that most others
wouldnt dare flaunt. The rooms are individually designed
and most make you want to live in them for much longer
than a night, with extras including a fabulous swimming
pool and fitness centre in the basement. Gol f packages
and outside the urban tangle at the same time. Handsome
hand-crafted furnishings, carpets and wallpaper give the
rooms an elegant antiquated style, while the impressive
conference facilities are the best around. Add to that a res-
taurant, a bar, a summer terrace, and full recreation centre
(hello jacuzzi) and suddenly the prospect of a visit to Chorzw
is a more than welcome one. Q115 rooms (111 singles 200
- 369z, 83 doubles 249 - 419z, 1 apartments 599 - 899z).
PTHAR6UFLGKDCw hhhh
Best Western Premier Katowice Hotel ul. Bytkows-
ka 1a, tel. (+48) 32 721 11 11, www.bestwesternkato-
wice.pl. For a city currently thriving on business investment,
the hotel market has been a bit slow to develop, but the arrival
of Katos Best Western is good news for out-of-towners
looking for accommodation to be less of an adventure. The
worlds biggest hotel chain, chances are youre familiar with
the brand and here you can expect the same high quality
with stylishly modern rooms accented in pink and purple,
conference and fitness facilities, a bar, restaurant, car park
and even a library. The location near the Park of Culture and
Recreation puts you within easy striking distance of Chorzw,
Katowice and Siemianowice lskie while being beyond the
hubbub of all three. Q168 rooms (61 singles 189 - 260z, 74
doubles 209 - 300z, 30 suites 219 - 380z, 1 apartments
499 - 780z). PTHA6UFGKDW hhhh
Diament Katowice D-3, ul. Dworcowa 9, tel. (+48)
32 746 70 00, www.hotelediament.pl. A great mid-
range option whose lobby even comes decorated with a few
famous they stayed here photos. Granted youre unlikely
to recognize any of the celebs whove lodged here but dont
let that stop you from booking in. Close to the train station
and just around the corner from the Rynek, what Diament
lacks in panache it more than makes up for with the personal
include special accommodations and the chance to use
nearby courses. Quite simply the best hotel in Katowice,
and the only to have earned that vaunted fifth star. Check
their website for special deals. Q108 rooms (12 singles
340 - 490z, 93 doubles 405 - 850z, 3 apartments 675 -
1100z). PTHA6UFLGKDCW hhhhh
Upmarket
angelo Hotel Katowice B-2, ul. Sokolska 24, tel.
(+48) 32 783 81 00, www.angelo-katowice.pl. Brand
new as of March 2010, Angelo looks to be a fantastic addition
to Katowices feeble accommodation offerings - a market
which could use a breath of fresh air. Angelo does just that
with a distinctive and appealing colour palette of black, white,
red and gold, and modern suites and rooms which - with the
substitution of the bed for a couple drafting tables - could
competently pass for the office of an architectural firm. In-
side them find amenities such as DVD players, plasma TVs,
adjustable AC and that coveted new hotel smell; facilities
include fitness studio and sauna, restaurant, a jazz club, un-
derground parking and conference facilities with something
called sunlight. Add to it a great location and youve got a
winner. Q203 rooms (181 singles 59 - 299, 181 doubles
79 - 319, 5 suites 89 - 349, 17 apartments 109 - 369).
PTHAR6UFGKDW hhhh
Arsenal Palace K-5, ul. Paderewskiego 35, Chorzw,
tel. (+48) 32 606 84 84, www.stylehotels.pl. In the
grand guise of Arsenal Palace, Chorzw has an exclusive
hotel that stacks up against the very best of the entire
region. And why not? With Chorzws high street and the
immaculate Park of Culture and Recreation within stumbling
distance and the centre of Katowice only a quick tram ride
away, this four-star effort has placed itself perfectly inside
Best Western Premier Katowice Hotel****
ul. Bytkowska 1A, 40-147 Katowice
tel. +48 32 721 11 11, fax: +48 32 721 11 00
www.bestwesternkatowice.pl
touch. Extremely friendly and helpful receptionists manage a
series of simple but comfortable orangeish rooms offering
free cable internet, spacey modern bathrooms and limited
satellite television. If you like the paintings on the wall then go
ahead, buy them. Q43 rooms (9 singles 389z, 30 doubles
429z, 4 suites 489z). THAR6ULGKW hhh
Diament Plaza Gliwice N-2, ul. Zwycistwa 30,
Gliwice, tel. (+48) 32 721 70 00, www.hotelediament.
pl. The Diament empire is responsible for some of the best
hotels in the Katowice region, and this one is the jewel in
their crown. Set inside a fairytale 19th century tenement its
almost possible to imagine Mr. Kipling carving the faade
out of marzipan. But while this looks like a piece of history
from the outside, from the inside it stands out as one of the
most modern hotels in the city. Rooms come decorated in
pinkish, reddish tones, and feature amenities such as free
internet, satellite TV and spacious bathrooms. The newly-
anointed fourth floor features rooms with a higher standard
and that coveted new-hotel smell, while the new Lobby Bar
Atmosfera has recently opened. Q67 rooms (28 singles
489z, 32 doubles 534z, 5 suites 599z, 1 apartments
659z). PTHAR6LKwW hhhh
Novotel Katowice Centrum C-4, Al. Rodzieskiego
16, tel. (+48) 32 200 44 44, www.accorhotels.com.
The classic Novotel experience, this modern box of a hotel in
the heart of the new city development area features quality
business-class rooms with all the trimmings, add-ons such
as excellent conference facilities and a decent lobby bar.
The rooms at the top of the building provide some superb
views of the sprawling mish-mash of competing architectural
styles in the surrounding area. Q300 rooms (216 singles
185 - 407z, 84 doubles 185 - 407z). Breakfast 49z. Tax
8%. POTHAR6UFLGKDCW hhhh
angelo Hotel Katowice
PL-40-086 Katowice, ul. Sokolska 24
Tel.: +48 32 783 81 00, Fax: +48 32 783 81 13
info@angelo-katowice.pl, www.angelo-katowice.pl, www.vi-hotels.com
angel o hot el kat owi ce
t he onl y r i ght address
203 comfortable rooms and suites
parking for 150 cars
high speed Internet
Restaurant Sunlight and Jazz-Bar
22
WHERE TO STAY
23
WHERE TO STAY
NEW
Paac Saturna ul. Dehnelw 2, Czelad, tel. (+48) 32
290 13 90, www.palacsaturna.pl. A breathtaking venue
found in the Czeladz district, which puts to bed the idea that
Katowice is all mines and industry. Set in a building which in
the past has been a palace and headquarters for the Saturn
mining complex the palace these days offers high quality
apartments, virtual offices, conference facilities as well as
some of the best bathing and sauna facilities found anywhere
in Poland. Located 7km from downtown Katowice, this is an
excellent choice for those travelling to Katowice on business
who have their own transport to get around.Q11 rooms (11
apartments 390 - 800z). PTHAGKDCwW
Park Hotel Diament F-2, ul. Wita Stwosza 37, tel.
(+48) 32 720 00 00, www.hotelediament.pl. A cut above
its city-centre sister hotel, the more business-minded Park
Diaments slightly out-of-bounds location may make it a less
attractive proposition to those not bringing a car to Kato-
wice. However, this comfortable masterpiece of minimalist
straight lines has (sadly) been the highlight of several trips
to Katowice. The rooms are bright, coming with everything
youd expect from a hotel of this calibre including free cable
internet connections. The apartments have baths, plus
theres a top floor bar-restaurant with a decent view of the
city at the bottom of the hill. The conference facilities see
regular use and the recently opened Golf Bar makes its claim
to fame as PLs first bar with a virtual golf course. One of the
best sleepers in town. Q186 rooms (181 singles 389z,
173 doubles 429z, 3 suites 569z, 2 apartments 639z).
PTHAR6UGKW hhh
Qubus Hotel N-3, ul. Dworcowa 27, Gliwice, tel. (+48)
32 300 11 00, www.qubushotel.com. A modern cube of
a hotel with pretty much everything you need within walking
Mid-range
Blues Hotel I-1, ul. Wolnoci 15, Chorzw, tel. (+48) 32
771 94 36, www.blues-hotel.pl. Impressive. These shockingly
stylish rooms right on Chorzws high street have to be the hippest
place to hit the sack in town. Carrying over the blues theme from
the Szuflada15 restaurant and jazz club housed in the same old
tenement building, Blues has nailed the birth of cool aesthetic;
all thats missing (gratefully) is the poster of Miles Davis. Modern
rooms in shades of steel gray, silver and deep blue come with
fashionable furnishings, satellite TV, free wireless and slick bath-
rooms. Choose between 2 singles, 6 doubles and 2 triples, all of
them handicap accessible and in danger of making you extend
your visit. Q10 rooms (2 singles 149 - 179z, 6 doubles 199 -
229z, 2 triples 229 - 269z). PAR6UGKW hhh
Campanile F-5, ul. Sowiskiego 48, tel. (+48) 32 205 50
50, www.campanile.com.pl. Great value in a city where accom-
modation is still very limited in choice. Modern, Identikit rooms come
with shower room, cable tv, wireless internet and comfortable beds.
The breakfast buffet is as good as you will find in a Polish 2-star
hotel and the competitive pricing policy means that Campanile have
a winning formula. You are advised to book ahead if planning on
staying during the week when the citys hotels fill up with business
travellers. Q77 rooms (77 singles 99 - 229z, 77 doubles 99 - 229z).
Breakfast 35z. PTHA6UGKW hh
DeSilva Inn Katowice Airport ul. Rwnolega 2,
Pyrzowice, tel. (+48) 32 393 88 88, www.desilva.pl.
With Katowice airport located some way from the city centre,
this new business hotel is ideally located for those with an
early flight. 77 air-conditioned rooms come fitted out with all
modern cons and large, comfortable beds while the in-house
bar and restaurant and impressive conferencing facilities
make it a very handy business choice. Q77 rooms (77 singles
169 - 328z, 77 doubles 169 - 328z, 77 triples 169 - 328z).
Breakfast 32z. PTHA6ULGKW hhh
Diament Economy Gliwice N-2, ul. Zwycistwa 42,
Gliwice, tel. (+48) 32 231 18 21, www.hotelediament.
pl. A splendid art nouveau facade hides some of the best
value accommodation in Gliwice, and it comes as absolutely
no surprise that were to thank the chaps behind the Diament
brand. Expect the uniform three star trimmings, including free
internet access, pay TV and a separate floor for non-smoking
finger-waggers. Q27 rooms (7 singles 259z, 20 doubles
299z). TA6ULGKW hhh
Diament Zabrze ul. Cisowa 4, Zabrze (Zaborze
Poudnie), tel. (+48) 32 721 10 00, www.hoteledia-
ment.pl. Set inside a powder blue building the Diament is
a no-nonsense mid-ranger with a tiled lobby that appears to
double as an art gallery - if you like what you see, buy it; all
the paintings on display come with price tags. Rooms come
decorated with pleasant neutral colours and feature spotless
bathrooms, satellite TV and wireless internet access. The
restaurant is one of your best chances for a meal that wont
debilitate you. Q38 rooms (12 singles 249z, 22 doubles
279z, 4 suites 384z). THA6ULGKDW hhh
Hotel Bella Notte K-4, ul. Paderewskiego 35, Chorzw,
tel. (+48) 32 606 82 82, www.stylehotels.pl. A stylish new
hotel located next to the Arsenal Palace Hotel on the Katowice/
Chorzow border, guests are entitled to use the facilities of
their illustrious neighbour such as the swimming pool, sauna
and fitness centre. An attractive choice in its own right, Bella
Notte features 32 standard rooms, 12 deluxe rooms and
a two-storey apartment is also available. Q45 rooms (43
singles 150 - 249z, 43 doubles 199 - 279z, 1 suites 299z,
1 apartments 319 - 499z). TAR6ULG hhh
distance from reception. Frankly, its the best hotel in town, as
well as the most modern. Rooms come with air-conditioning,
wifi and mini-bar, while the style is chic and fresh. Suites come
with Jacuzzi tubs, while the superior apartments feature DVD
players and computer. Q89 rooms (35 singles 60 - 106, 44
doubles 68 - 128, 6 suites 90 - 149, 4 apartments 182).
PTHAR6ULGKW hhh
Qubus Prestige C-3, ul. Uniwersytecka 13, tel. (+48)
32 601 01 00, www.qubushotel.com. Top class modern
business facilities inside the Altus Centre. Occupying the top few
floors of the unmissable city-centre building, facilities include
cable television, minibars, safes and internet connections in
every room. Cashing in on the lofty location, as well as splendid
views of the city from any of the 150 rooms the hotel also has
a great cocktail bar on the 27th floor which is free to enter for
guests staying in the hotel. Q150 rooms (94 singles 62 - 137,
14 doubles 73 - 154, 36 suites 99 - 194, 6 apartments
115 - 321). POTHAR6UFGKD hhhh
Royal M-3, ul. Matejki 10, Gliwice, tel. (+48) 32 400
00 00, www.hotelroyal.com.pl. One of Gliwices nicest
hotels and right in the centre of the Old Town - you really
cant do much better. A four-star affair, adorned with an
over-abundance of balustrades and Doric columns, mirrored
tables, archways and open space, Royal has a real air of
aristocracy to it. The rooms are spacious and the suites even
more so, with large luxurious bathrooms you may be tempted
to spend your entire trip in, as well as internet, 50 channel TV,
a mini bar and safe. A classy restaurant, conference centre
and fitness room are also on site, but if you really want to
treat yourself like royalty, youll be scampering back and forth
between the dry and steam saunas, massage table and your
insuite bathroom. Q34 rooms (12 singles 325z, 22 doubles
389z). PHAFLGKDW hhh
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Tel. 32 290 13 90, Fax 32 290 13 92
info@palacsaturna.eu
www.palacsaturna.eu www.termyrzymskie.eu
ROMAN THERMAE Temple of Health and Vitality
Apartments, Roman Thermae - unique and magical place with countless
numbers of saunas, baths and pools; Wellness & SPA Center;
Congress and Conference Center, Ofces for rent, Virtual Ofces
24
WHERE TO STAY
25
WHERE TO STAY
machines in the corridors to windows that actually open,
should you have a natural distrust of air-conditioning. Q114
rooms (114 singles 180 - 200z, 114 doubles 209 - 229z).
PTHA6UGKW hh
Quality System Hotel Katowice G-4, ul. Szybow-
cowa 1a, tel. (+48) 32 606 88 00, www.hotelsystem.
pl. Well this is confusing. Used to be this was two hotels, with
two different standards, attached at the hip by a conference
centre. Since then all the rooms have been emblazoned
with three stars, and the name has changed to avoid being
identi fied with the former standards of the brand. What
hasnt changed however is the conscientious parity in room
standard, with the new terms Quality and Comfort now
being applied. Nomenclature and debatable star systems
aside, this hotel still distinguishes itsel f with great facili-
ties, good value and extra perks which include free use of
the indoor pool, sauna and jacuzzi. 8 elegant suites on the
upper floors offer panoramic views of the surrounding area
for those with the spare change. Q211 rooms (44 singles
120 - 180z, 159 doubles 165 - 255z, 8 suites 285 - 335z).
PTHAR6UGKDCW hhh
Senator D-5, ul. 1 Maja 3, tel. (+48) 32 258 60 81,
www.senator.katowice.pl. All the rooms were completely
renovated in the spring of 2007 and feature good-looking
furniture, cable television, some bathrooms with showers
only and others with a bath. The spacious apartment is
an excellent value but the location means it comes with a
rather nasty view, and despite all the improvements the rest
of the hotel still needs a bit of work. Just east of the centre
on a busy tram line, Senator offers an interesting balance
of price, facilities and location. Q48 rooms (47 singles 159
- 210z, 47 doubles 179 - 252z, 1 apartments 350 - 450z).
HA6UGKW hhh
Budget
Etap Katowice C- 4, Al. Rodzieskiego 18, tel.
(+48) 32 350 50 40, www.etaphotel.com. The Etap
brand has landed in Katowice, which is smashing news
for budget travellers tired of sleeping in hotels that smell
of ol d socks and steamed turnips. Cl ean and modern
this is exactly what the lower end of the market needs,
with facilities including prim flatscreen satellite TV, air-
conditioning and bathrooms that dont need a dose of
Dutch courage prior to entry. You wouldnt want to swing
a cat inside the rooms, but they certainl y fill a gap in
the market. Q124 rooms (124 singles 121 - 161z, 124
doubles 121 - 161z, 4 triples 121 - 161z). Breakfast
20-23z. PTA6ULGW h
Jopi Hostel E-2, ul. Plebiscytowa 23, tel. (+48) 32
204 34 32, www.jopihostel.pl. It what seems like it
should be (but probably isnt) a watershed moment in the
history of Katowice tourism, here comes the citys first, and
presently its only, hostel. Lacking the kind of competitive
market that might inspire it to match the quality and ser-
vices of some of the better hostels you may have bedded
in around Europe, Jopi is a basic affair: 32 bunks, a kitchen,
wi fi and one public computer. The perks are primarily the
cost, location (right in the centre) and the presence of
plenty of bathrooms, though we can hardly imagine this
place being packed with backpackers. Go ahead and bogart
that jam and toast breakfast. Q9 rooms (3 singles 82z, 4
doubles 102 - 108z, 2 quads 184 - 196z, 32 Dorm beds
41 - 54z). A6GW
Katowice C-3, Al. Korfantego 9, tel. (+48) 32 258 82
81, www.hotel-katowice.com.pl. Caught somewhere
mid-way between communist-era throwback and space
station, evidence that Katowice might be slowly catching
up with the world includes the addition of such necessities
as wireless internet in the lobby and smiling receptionists.
The rooms are pleasant enough, with some offering amaz-
ing views of the citys less-than-amazing panorama, plus
the restaurant and conference rooms have recently gotten
a much-needed touch up. The city-centre location is made
even more convenient by the bus stop in front, which serves
as a major Silesian transit point. Q230 rooms (136 singles
120 - 192z, 78 doubles 210 - 270z, 16 suites 250 - 340z).
THA6UGKW hh
NEW
Orodek Konferencyjno-Szkoleniowy INNOWAC-
JA (Conference & Training Centre Innovation)
ul. Jagielloska 38A, Zabrze, tel. (+48) 32 278 75
55, www.oks.polsl.pl. Located in the centre of Zabrze,
Innowacja offers professional and quality service all located
within their modernized and tech-savvy conference centre
and hotel. The Centres location houses amenities including
apartments, studios, and single or double rooms for up to
79 guests. Every room has a private bath and is fitted with
LCD televisions and refrigerators, while apartments and
studios include a private kitchenette. The conference facil-
ity amenities include air conditioning, Wi-Fi, surround sound
and high-end AV and lighting central-control systems. Q35
rooms (23 singles 80 - 90z, 21 doubles 110 - 130z, 8 triples
155 - 180z, 3 quads 190 - 220z, 4 apartments 165 - 190z).
Breakfast 14z. HARG
Willa Ambasador ul. 3 Maja 78, Zabrze (rdmiecie),
tel. (+48) 32 271 50 44, www.mosir.zabrze.pl. Accom-
modation options in Zabrze arent known for their daring,
so Ambasador presents a refreshing break from the norm.
Housed inside a detached villa dating from the 18th cen-
Hotel Rycerski (Knights Hotel) ul. Bdziska 53,
Czelad, tel. (+48) 32 763 58 88, www.hotel-rycerski.
pl. A very good, new hotel, made to look like a Polish mountain
hut from the outside but containing spacious, well-equipped,
modern rooms set out on the road from Czeladz to Bedzin.
Youll need a car to get to and from wherever you might want
to go, but you are compensated with very good accom-
modation at affordable rates, with a recommended Polish
restaurant and bar meaning you dont need to go anywhere
else to eat like one of the aforementioned knights. Modern
conference, meeting and banqueting facilities seem to have
made it a success from the word go. Q26 rooms (24 singles
170 - 255z, 19 doubles 200 - 270z, 1 suites 240 - 270z, 1
apartments 310 - 350z). THARGK hhh
Hotel Szafran ul. Bdziska 82, Czelad, tel. (+48) 32
784 31 00, www.hotelszafran.pl. A brand new venture lo-
cated midway between the city and the airport. Comfortable,
air-conditioned single and double rooms and apartments,
free wi-fi, safes and mini-bars make this an already popular
choice with the business traveller in the region. There also
have 4 conference rooms including a multimedia salon for
400 people. Q116 rooms (2 singles 209 - 409z, 85 doubles
259 - 559z, 22 triples 309 - 489z, 7 apartments 509 -
659z). PTHA6UGKW hhhh
Ibis Katowice - Zabrze R-1, ul. Jagielloska 4,
Zabrze, tel. (+48) 32 777 70 00, www.accorhotels.
com. Opened with a swipey card, the rooms at the Ibis are
everything one expects from these middle-bracket stalwarts.
Plain and identikit it might be, but your accommodation
is guaranteed to be absolutely pristine, with soundproof
doors and extra-strong curtains ensuring your sleep faces
no interruption. Everything here comes geared to making
your visit as smooth as possible, from the shoe-shine
76 AIR-CONDITIONED ROOMS WITH
TV AND BATHROOM
FREE WIRELESS INTERNET HOTSPOT
RESTAURANT WITH
INTERNATIONAL CUISINE
COMFORTABLE CONFERENCE ROOMS
MONITORED CAR-PARK
SOWISKIEGO 48, 40-018 KATOWICE, TEL: +48 (032) 205 50 50, FAX: +48 (032) 209 06 06
EMAIL: KATOWICE@CAMPANILE.COM
Ul. Bdziska 53, 41-250 Czelad
Tel. 32/763 58 88, www.hotel-rycerski.pl
tury rooms range from sterile, department store furnished
lodgings filled with plastic plants, to reasonably salubrious
studios decorated with some semblance of flair. Rooms come
hooked up to the internet and also with limited satellite TV;
good news if you want to pass time by watching Big Brother
in your underpants. Youre not going to find many diplomats
volunteering to spend the night here, but this remains a pretty
good deal if that big win on the lottery continues to prove
elusive. Q28 rooms (19 singles 100z, 18 doubles 140z, 7
triples 180z, 2 apartments 200 - 250z). Breakfast 20z.
PHA6KW
Apartments
Euro Residence D-2, ul. Kopernika 6, tel. (+48)
32 608 42 52, www.euroresidence.com.pl. Located
on a quiet street in the leafy district south of the train
tracks and geared primarily but not exclusively towards
short- and long-term foreign business travellers, these
smart apartments in a range of sizes come complete with
all the necessities youd expect to find in an apartment.
Modern and stylish, breakfast is included in the price and
they also offer extras such as laundry service, jacuzzi and
massages (which cost extra). Q20 rooms (6 singles 234 -
275z, 6 doubles 234 - 275z, 14 apartments 335 - 680z).
TAULGDW
Sleep City tel. (+48) 509 75 29 35, www.sleepcity.pl.
An expanded offer sees 12 apartments representing great
value over local hotel offers for anyone who values space
and privacy. All apartments come with fully-fitted kitchens,
wifi, local television, DVD players and a collection of films for
those rainy days. Booking is available online through their
website. Q12 rooms (12 apartments 170 - 400z). Breakfast
20z. TARULGW
26
RESTAURANTS
Unfortunately for your palate, Silesia is better known as
an agglomeration of undesirable industrial towns than a
centre of world-class cuisine for connoisseurs. However,
with the gradual improvement of the service industry now
joining the esteemed ranks of the coal and steel industries
in the area, the restaurant scene has been buoyed as well.
Katowice is certainly seeing its offerings improve, though in
many ways its still slim pickings - especially when it comes
to ethnic food which, regardless of claimed country of origin,
will invariably contain cabbage and shredded carrots. As
in other parts of this guide the places covered here are
located throughout the conglomeration. I f the venue is not
in Katowice town itsel f, we have added the name of the
town it is in to the address after a comma along with a map
reference i f applicable. Districts of Katowice are shown in
brackets. The prices we list here reflect the cheapest and
most precious main dishes on the menu. Tipping at least
10% for table service is customary, though it may not always
be deserved. Smacznego!
American
City Rock B-2, ul. Chorzowska 9b, tel. (+48) 32
201 05 05, www.cityrock.pl. I f you crossed Hard
Rock Cafe wi th a cl assi c Ameri can di ner i n a Pol i sh
laboratory, you might end with something like City Rock,
where motorbikes, guitars, 50s pinups, Elvis and even
a full-sized Formula 1 car are attached to the walls. The
pre-pubescent boy in you will love i t and thats before
the team of local beauties appears to present you with
the easy English menu of Tex-Mex, fried food, ice cream
sundaes, milkshakes, pasta, pizza and obligatory Polish
dishes - choose from lame-named items like Easy Chick
and Grinch Spaghetti, or why not try to push your luck
and ask the Miss Polska serving you for a Porky Party?
The food is uni formly average, but includes comforting
sel dom seen perks like hal f-li tre Cokes and barbecue
sauce. Incredibly popular and kind of great for all the wrong
reasons. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 24:00.
(15-49z). TA6UBXSW
Caucasian
Fantasmagoria C-1, ul. Gliwicka 51, tel. (+48) 32
253 00 59. A bit geographically perplexing for those of
us who havent gotten the history lesson, Fantasmago-
ria specialises in zakaukasko-wilenska cuisine, which
would refer to the Caucasus region and the Lithuanian
lands around Vilnius (a journey between which would take
several days as far as we can tell). The restaurant itsel f
has the homely feel of a grandmothers kitchen and the
wood-burning oven where various meat dishes are grilled
to perfection adds to the atmosphere. Expect generous
portions cooked simply and well with a range of Georgian
wines available to wash it all down. QOpen 13:00 - 22:00.
(17-47z). TAGBSW
Chinese
A Dong C-2, ul. Matejki 3, tel. (+48) 32 258 66 62,
www.adong.com.pl. Equally ostentatious and tatty, this
huge and decidedly strange restaurant comes complete
wi th a coat-check grandpa, groups of of fi ce workers
tucking into plates of good-l ooking food, red lanterns
and authenti c Chi nese musi c. The menu is large and
packed with equally authentic Chinese dishes at bargain
prices. Highly recommened for both its novelty as well
as serving the sort of food youll find all over China but
almost never in the UK. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (18-42z).
PTAGSW
Polish tipping eti quette can be a bi t confusing for
foreigners. While in other civilized countries its normal
to say thanks when a wai ter coll ects the money,
youll be horri fied to learn that in Poland uttering the
word dzi kuj e (thank you), or even thank you i n
English, is an indication that you wont be wanting
any change back. This cultural slip-up can get very
embarrassing and expensive as the waiter/waitress
then typically does their best to play the fool and make
you feel ashamed for asking for your money back, or
conveniently disappears having pocketed all of your
change, no matter what the cost of the meal and size
of the note it was paid with. We suggest that you only
say thank you i f you are happy for the waitstaff to
keep all of the change. Otherwise we advise you to
only use the word prosz when handing back the bill
and the payment.
Despi te the fact that the average wai tress in PL onl y
makes a pal try 10-15z/hr, a customary tip is still
onl y around 10% of the meals total (though being
a forei gner may make staf f expectant of a bi t more
generosi ty). As such, we encourage you to reward
good servi ce when you feel i ts deserved. Fi nal l y,
i t is not common to add the tip to your credi t card
payment because wai tstaf f are forced to then pay
tax on the gratui ty; most likel y you will not even be
abl e to l eave a tip on your card. Have some change
handy so you can still l eave a cash tip, or ask your
server for change.
Tipping Tribulations
ul. Uniwersytecka 13, 40-007 Katowice
mobile +48 512 020 808, tel +48 (32) 603 01 91
katowice@viatoscana.pl, www.viatoscana.pl
Our restaurant can be found in the ALTUS BUILDING (QUBUS), FIRST FLOOR.
Me d i t e r r a n e a n Cu i s i n e
A bl ue- col l ar regi on of
mi gr ant s, mi ner s and
mi ners daughters, few
places are as well suited
the nati ons tradi ti onal
peasant fare of potatoes,
cutl ets and cabbage as
Si l esi a. So what have
the locals contributed to
nati onal cui si ne? Wel l ,
you can put Si l esi an
noodl es, known l ocall y as kluski slskie at the
top of your culinary i tinerary. Essentiall y a pi erogi
with no filling, these pillowy potato flour dough balls
are served as a side dish almost everywhere, often
with mushroom gravy or fried fat and bacon bits on
top. With a chewy texture and typically bland flavour,
kluki literally stick to your ribs and set like cement in
your stomach. We love em. I f youre particularly down
and out, you cant do better than a 4-6z side dish
that stays in your stomach for two days. As for main
courses, your pervasive regional entre for the brave
has to be Silesian beef rolades, or rolada lska
a rather turd-like rolled beef patty filled with onions,
bacon and pickles. This surprisingly tasty dish with
some kluki and red cabbage or fried sauerkraut on
the side is as Silesian as it gets and exactly how they
serve it at Bar Pod Sidemka; alternatively give it a
try at Wiejska Chatka. Wash it all down with a ywiec
or Tyskie Polands most popular national beers, both
brewed in this part of Poland.
Silesian Grub
28
RESTAURANTS
29
RESTAURANTS
French
Cest Si Bon E-2, ul. Ligonia 4, tel. (+48) 32 781 68 48,
www.cestsibon.pl. Certainly one of Katowices finer restau-
rants, the service may not be as cheerful as the interior full of
lavender plants, lilac tableclothes, dried flowers, candleholders
and sun icons, but the food is top-notch, as testified by the
long list of companies Cest Si Bon does regular catering for.
The menu is in Polish, French and English, and still full of rich,
delicious dishes from the French onion soup with croutons
and Gruyere cheese, to veal escalopes served with foie gras.
A great way to forget youre in Katowice. QOpen 13:00 - 22:00,
Sun 13:00 - 20:00. (34-135z). PTAVGSW
German
WunderBAR D-3, ul. Plebiscytowa 2, tel. (+48) 32 781
76 90, www.wunderbar.pl. A pleasing bar-restaurant kitted
out with pots, pans, chiming clocks and all manner of assorted
country trumpery. The menu here is pretty much as you expect
from a Bavarian themed eatery, hunks of deceased animal
served in masculine portions. If you really mean business then
look no further than the Trough Wunderbar; a monster meal
that includes pork, ribs, bratwurst, sauerkraut and potatoes.
QOpen 13:00 - 23:00. (28-69z). TAGBS
Greek
Hellas D-1, Pl. Rostka 2, tel. (+48) 32 205 07 77, www.
hellas.com.pl. Every bit the caricature Greek restaurant
abroad, from the gingham tablecloths to the fishing nets
hanging from the ceiling. Twangy Greek tunes sound off
in the background, occasionally drowned out by the noise
coming from the open kitchen as a team of chefs clatter
around in theatrical Stavros fashion. Served by girls who
could advertise toothpaste the food here includes the full
range of traditional Greek classics, expertly cooked. High-
lights include the Mussaka (meat and aubergine casserole),
kleftiko (lamb and veg baked in parchment) and Greek salads.
QOpen 12:30 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:30 - 24:00. (24-50z).
TA6UVGBSW
Hungarian
Zaklty Czardasz D-2, ul. Kopernika 9, tel. (+48) 32
257 01 32, www.czardasz.com. Something resembling
a Hungarian taverna with lots of plants, paprika and garlic
cloves dangling from the ceilings, and a fair scattering of
Christmas tree lights to add that classically crass reminder
that youre in Central Europe. The aroma coming the kitchen is
not a false dawn, the food here really is as good as it smells;
the trout dishes we tried were great, but itd be criminal to
leave here without sampling the goulash - youll be licking the
cutlery. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (28-46z).
PTAUGBSW
Indian
Bombaj Tandoori ul. Partyzantw 5, Sosnowiec, tel.
(+48) 32 266 83 48, www.bombaj-tandoori.pl. Located
in Sosnowiec, the Bombay is one of the longest established
ethnic restaurants in the entire country and authentic from
the comprehensive menu through the pleasant, polite,
English-speaking staff to the Bollywood films playing on the
flatscreen TV. All the signature Indian dishes are there and
spice levels are automatically set at levels connoisseurs
would expect, a fact you shouldnt take for granted when
ordering food with a bit of zing in Poland. Some low-key
furnishings add to the south continent experience with
Kingfisher beer adding the finishing touch. Depending on
where you are, while you might need a cab to get you there,
you will definitely need one to get you home again as the
portions could stop a baby Indian elephant in his tracks.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (24-80z). PTAUGBSW
Buddha E-2, ul. Drzymay 9, tel. (+48) 32 608 00 50,
www.buddha.info.pl. Surely a landmark event for Katowice,
the Indian owned and operated Buddha introduces authentic
ethnic food to a region known more as culinarily bizarre than
a culinary bazaar. Richly furnished with elegant antiques, wall
hangings, ceramic tiles and gold silk place-settings, Buddha
already has a head start before the food even arrives and fails
to disappoint in that department as well. If it says its spicey
(gasp!) it actually is, though slightly small portions mean
youd be wise to take a side of rice. Overall a fine effort and
worth the total on the check, which arrives in a hand-crafted
box with free incense to take home. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(20-40z). PTAGBSW
Tad Mahal D-3, ul. Mariacka 18a, tel. (+48) 32 206
03 09, www.restauracjatadzmahal.pl. Given Katowices
slow but gradual culinary coming-of-age and relatively recent
introduction to Indian food, city diners should be flattered
to now have two rather handsome authentic Indian suitors
to choose between. With an interior of bright red walls and
draped silks, Tad Mahal offers a comfortable environment
for lunch or dinner, capturing the exoticism of Eastern culture
without trying to make it trendy. Standouts from the large
excellent menu of sizzling and standard Indian dishes include
extras such as sweet Peshwari naan bread (highly recom-
mended), special filtered Indian coffee and Indian beers,
as well as shisha pipes in the seasonal garden. Stop by on
Saturday evening to enjoy bejewelled, flat-bellied Bollywood
dancers. Good show all around. QOpen 10:30 - 23:00. (12-
32z). TA6UVGBSW
Europa C-2, ul. Mickiewicza 8, tel. (+48) 32 259 66
96. Those who like to complain about the Poles frequent
inability to form an orderly queue will be amused by this
classic milk bar, which features a series of gates and
fences to curb queue barging. Once you do get to the
counter, take your pick from a range of local, ludicrously
cheap flour-based dishes, a surprisingly decent bean
soup, goulash and instant mashed potatoes. School
dinners for grown ups, collect your food, pick up a
knife and fork, pay the lady and away you go/go away.
(3-12z). GS
KFC G-4, ul. Alpejska 1, tel. (+48) 71 386 18 28,
www.kfc.pl. Also at ul. Chorzowska 107 (Silesia City
Center, A-1). Q Open 24hrs. (5-20z). PTAUG
BSW
Lorneta z Meduz D-3, ul. Mariacka 5, tel. (+48)
32 200 06 60, www.lornetazmeduza.pl. Modern
European in style, stubbornly Soviet in concept, Lorneta
z Meduz has revived the 1975 business plan of flat rate
prices pegged at 8z and 4z for food and drink, respec-
tively. Your drink - be it beer, coffee, vodka, wine, tea or
juice - comes in a quantity proportional to that price, while
the limited food options would all appear to be answers
to the Jeopardy category Snacks That Go With Vodka:
namely, herring in oil (ledz), bread smeared with lard
(smalec), and the Double Jeopardy winner - pig trotters
in gelatin (galeretka). Egads. Though the interiors are
respectable enough - with two old maps of Kattowitz
dressing up the walls and the stools of the window bar
making a decent place for people watching - the take-
away coffee would seem the safest bet for food or drink.
Q Open 24 hrs. (8z). GBS
McDonalds C-2, ul. Stawowa 5, tel. (+48) 694
49 59 25, www.mcdonalds.pl. Also at ul. Chor-
zowska 107 (Silesia City Center, A-1), Al. Grnolska
40a (F-4) and Al. Grnolska/Ofiar Katynia 5 (G-5).
QOpen 06:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 06:00 - 01:00. (10-15z).
PAUGBSW
Pizza Hut C-3, ul. Korfantego 9a, tel. (+48) 32
258 37 63, www.pizzahut.pl. Apart from bei ng
within earshot of the disputed hourly Spodek chimes,
theres little to di fferentiate this Pizza Hut from any
other Pizza Hut on the planet. Expect beauti ful and
charming waitresses, pizza you can rely on and that
old standby Pizza Hut salad bar. Also at ul. Chorzowska
107 (Silesia City Center, A-1). QOpen 10:00 - 22:00,
Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00. (12-38z). PTAUG
BSW
Zoty Rg (The Golden Horn) D-3, ul. Mariacka
2, tel. (+48) 32 253 78 48. A combined delicatessen
and place to stand at a table and eat in the style of a
train station buffet, this humble-looking establishment
churns out a large array of outstanding dishes ready to
eat in an instant from pierogi to roast beef, all served with
a superb choice of side dishes and salads. If you dont
mind the peculiar dining arrangements you wont find it
easy to get a better and tastier bargain than in here. Q
Open 07:00 - 18:00, Fri 07:00 - 18:00, 22:00 - 04:00,
Sat 08:00 - 14:00, 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Sun. (10-23z).
PA6GS
Quick Eats
International
Akolada D- 4, ul. Zacisze 3, tel. (+48) 32 201 03
46, www.akolada.pl. Set inside a glass-roofed red brick
atrium in the Music Academy this is a cracking venue in
which to enjoy the finer side of life. The cooking is modern
international, and the menu features corkers like pork ten-
derloin on potato pancakes with a chanterelle sauce and
ravioli stuffed with salmon. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. (14-50z).
PTAUGBSW
Bierhalle A-1, ul. Chorzowska 107, 1st floor, (Silesia
City Center), tel. (+48) 32 605 01 61, www.bierhalle.
pl. Dining in a shopping mall usually consists of being queue
barged by tracksuited teens ordering burgers and putting the
finishing touches to their acne, so Bierhalle is quite a bonus
for all who find themselves exploring the guts of the Silesia
City shopping mall. The best beer in Katowice should be the
primary reason for your visit, but the food is by no means a
poor relation; especially in a city where eating out is usually
followed by a prompt and painful trip to the toilet. The menu
here is pretty much as youd expect: big piles of dead animals,
perfect for lining the innards before putting their range of
microbrews to the test. Order the likes of sausages, herring,
and even tortillas, delivered without incident by staff dressed
like theyve just finished milking cows. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,
Fri 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00.
(15-40z). PTAGBSW
Bohema F-2, ul. Bratkw 4, tel. (+48) 32 202 51 80,
www.restauracjabohema.com. Entirely elegant, theres
little bohemian about Bohema - with its wine glasses and
white tablecloth approach to fine dining - except maybe the
surprisingly moderate prices. Appear in-the-know by taking
your date to this obscure restaurant on the south side and
choose from a wide range of Polish and European meat and
30
RESTAURANTS
31
RESTAURANTS
Grill Bar ul. Bdziska 82, Czelad, tel. (+48) 32 763
80 13, www.szafranowydwor.pl. A part of the Szafranowy
Dwor complex offering a canteen style grill for those on the
move. Located between downtown Katowice and the airport,
it makes a perfect stop if you are on your way to or from the
airport in your own transport. All manner of meat is grilled up
including steaks, pork and chicken fillets and fish. A range of
salads and a kids menu make this one of the better family
options in the conurbation as well. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.
(12-50z). PTAUGBSW
Gwarek D- 4, ul. Przemysowa 2, tel. (+48) 32 256
31 44. A bizarre offering just east of the music academy,
the menu reads like gibberish (boil pettitoes?) and rumours
have it that it doesnt taste a whole lot better. Our advice is
stick to the szopska salad and pork dishes and find a table
upstairs on the balcony among the millions of spindly plants.
An experience rather than a restaurant, drop by to soak up
the peculiar atmosphere rather than the calories. QOpen
11:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. (26-43z). PA6UGSW
Kamienny Kasztel Al. Gwna 3, Chorzw (Park of
Culture & Recreation), tel. (+48) 501 78 05 30, www.
kamiennykasztel.pl. Inside the Park of Culture & Recre-
ation, the astonishing interior features nods to everything
from the Stone Age to the Renaissance. Bursting with oil
paintings and boasting a wonderful garden during the sum-
mer, food comes courtesy of a large selection of Polish dishes
plus a few international favourites. By far the best place to
eat when enjoying the sights and attractions of the park.
QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (16-120z). PTAUGBS
Labirynt D-3, ul. Staromiejska 12, tel. (+48) 32 352
13 20, www.labirynt.katowice.pl. Mystical murals and
an enormous cocktail list inside a popular A-list haunt, the
not always a direct translation of the Polish which makes
what appears on your plate sometimes surprising. QOpen
from September 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00.
(31-59z). PTAGSW
Felicidad C-1, ul. Sobieskiego 10, tel. (+48) 32 258 05
33, www.felicidad.pl. Overseen by a team of older women,
Felicidads strange, somewhat tatty interior incorporates
elements of an Irish pub (including the misleading four-leaf
clover they use as a logo), a medieval tavern and a grannys
attic before the yard sale. Supposedly this is an opportu-
nity to taste some Portuguese cuisine, but the overpriced
Polish-only menu hardly makes Portugal seem the exotic
culinary destination you might expect, with highlights being
the small selection of port wines and the garlic soup - strong
enough to set you right after smoking a pack of cigarettes
the night before and vamp-proofing you for the night ahead.
Very popular wi th businessmen incessantl y answering
their phones. QOpen 11:30 - 21:30. Closed Sun. (38-57z).
PTA6UVGBS
Fenix C-3, Al. Korfantego 5, tel. (+48) 32 206 40 44,
www.restauracjafenix.pl. Since taking over for Sphinx,
this budget sit-down restaurant in a dumpy building at a
major busstop has gone international, redoing the decor a
bit to reflect that with European maps and African animal
prints. The menu hits several continents with cheap, speedy
Asian, Mexican and American offerings, Polish, Italian and
European mainstays, and you can round it all off with creme
brulee for dessert. In the end, the less-than-authentic food
and atmosphere arent that dissimilar from what Sphinx
used to be: hardly a revelation, but you could do worse in
these parts; we know we have. Also at ul. Chorzowska 107
(A-1, Silesia City Center). QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (15-50z).
PTA6UGBS
characterised by family traditions and culinary experience
menu features such lavish dishes as lamb legs in thyme
sauce and salmon. Accessed down a steep stone stairwell
Labirynt is known for its seafood, as well as numerous
regional speciali ties. Each summer sees a marvellous
people-watching terrace unravelled. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(25-90z). PTA6BXS
Oko Miasta (Eye On the Rocks) B-3, Rondo gen.
Zitka 1, tel. (+48) 698 69 08 22, www.okomiasta.
pl. Smack in the middle of a major intersection, what this
restaurant actually has its eye on is a tram stop and that
bonkers spaceship building they call Spodek; with a front
terrace to dine on, its actually an exciting view. Serving
midrange delicacies (beef roulade with Silesian dumplings
24z, pork tenderloin 36z ) by day, Eye of the Town rolls over
after hours into a club with DJ parties in the modern interior of
exposed silver beams and ductwork. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
(15-60z). PTA6UEGBSW
Pan de Rossa ul. Trzech Staww 23 (os. Paderews-
kiego), tel. (+48) 32 256 05 52, www.panderossa.com.
pl. Located in the Valley of Three Ponds ( just east of F-5 on
the map) - one of the citys most popular recreation areas,
Pan de Rossa makes more than just an appetising diversion
for those creaking around on their bicycles. Unfortunately
its given up its fantastic terrace overlooking the pond and
moved across the road and into the trees. However it has
substituted the views for a fresh, modern dcor with lots of
light through its large windows. The menu remains a disserta-
tion on local grilled fish and game dishes but has upped the
Polish selections, likely to cater to a more local audience.
The interior is certainly more upscale and business oriented,
so cyclists and walkers in the warmer months are likely to
stick to the covered outdoor patio. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
(20-50z). PTAUGBS
Restaurant Sunlight in angelo Hotel Katowice
PL-40-086 Katowice, ul. Sokolska 24
Table reservation: +48 32 783 81 56, Fax: +48 32 783 81 13
restauracja@angelo-katowice.pl, www.angelo-katowice.pl, www.vi-hotels.com
del i ci ous f usi on cui si ne
i n rest aur ant sunl i ght
located in Katowice city centre
selection of over 80 international wines
seasonal menu available
parking for 150 cars
fish dishes; curiosities include the goose stomach in Proven-
cal sauce (has to be specially ordered), tenderloin in forest
mushroom sauce and an entire page of veggie side dishes
entitled Vitamins at the top - indicative of the character of
the main courses. Classy with a creme interior of black and
white photos of 50s starlets, the separate downstairs bar
offers something a bit more relaxed and the upstairs terrace
was recently restored. QOpen 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 -
18:00. (13-48z). PTAVEGBSW
Camelot D-2, ul. Batorego 2, tel. (+48) 32 781 80
62. Not a round table in sight, but there is a vague knights-
in-armour theme to this large, highly likable restaurant and
pub. Dimly-lit and full of dark colours over two floors with
a small garden out back, Camelot hits the right balance
as one of your best options in town for casual dining, a
business meeting or beer with friends. The menu of solid,
affordable pub grub includes regional favourites (salmon
and spinach stuffed crepes, 16z), pasta, and steak fillets.
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (15-34z).
PA6BXS
Cinnamon D-1, ul. Mikoowska 9, tel. (+48) 32 701
55 94, www.restauracja- cinnamon.pl. Smart looking
new restobar located close to the centre of Katowice.
The bare-bricks, comfy sofas and black-clad staff give
the venue a classy feel and the laid-back sounds, shiny
bar and eclectic menu all win points i f youre like the place
youre in to look as good as you. The food is good and
includes everything from quesilladas to pastas, spring
rolls, steaks and ribs and the duck with plum on a pea
mousse is recommendable. Food comes prepared in an
open kitchen which while looking good could do with some
work on its ventilation which does tend to fill the place with
cooking smells. A small word of warning in that the menu is
32
RESTAURANTS
33
RESTAURANTS
Patio C-2, ul. Stawowa 3, tel. (+48) 32 781 55 55, www.
restauracjapatio.pl. One of Katowices most popular restau-
rants with an extensive menu of pizzas, pastas, grilled meats
and fish, Patios provisions are now offered in English, making
it much easier for you to successfully order what some claim
to be the best steak in town. The interior is designed to look
like an exterior, with a wooden lattice ceiling full of Christmas
lights, fake flowers, bird nests, pinecones, twigs and other
things youd sweep up from the yard; though when the summer
terrace is open, its a bit of mute point. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00,
Sun 13:00 - 23:00. (16-45z). PTAGBS
Patio Park G-1, ul. Kociuszki 101, tel. (+48) 32 205
30 77, www.patio-park.pl. An exquisitely decorated and
refreshingly spacious restaurant at the edge of Kociuszki
Park. Reflected light above the faux trellises give the impres-
sion of daylight and cut branches hang from the trellises so
as to give the impression of dining in a forest on a starry
night. Country-style furniture, a rustic-themed mural, antique
objects and elegantly simple table settings sustain the im-
pression. Wait staff are pleasant and speedy to respond.
The chef takes a creative turn with entrees, adding garnish to
some to resemble trees. The menu is long, but you may not
have to venture past the chefs recommendations on the first
page to find something tempting. A good choice for business
lunches or a stop off before or after a walk through the park.
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (20-70z). PTAUBXSW
Pub-Restauracja Za Kulisami C-3, ul. Teatralna 8,
tel. (+48) 32 258 50 80, www.za-kulisami.pl. We were
told this place had been given a facelift under new ownership
but well be buggered if we could spot the difference in dcor.
Bare bricks. Check. Wicker seating. Check. Dim lighting.
Check. The one thing that did appear to have changed was
the menu. A decent selection of dishes considering that this
is a restaurant/cafe/bar in Katowice, ranging from salads,
pastas and seafood to a selection of meat dishes that saw
our chicken stuffed with mushrooms and bacon get a thumbs
up while the T-Bone for 65zl looked like a decent enough
value. Located opposite the theatre this is clearly one of the
citys more trendy resto-bars and a welcome break from the
adjacent Rynek. Q Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 22:00.
From September open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 22:00.
(17-65z). PTAGBSW
Restauracja Bergamo ul. Olimpijska 4 ,Siemiano-
wice lskie (Vacanza Hotel), tel. (+48) 32 606 83
85, www.hotel-vacanza.pl. Its rare that a hotel restaurant
would warrant the trip for those not staying upstairs, but
Silesian dining is precisely the kind of perfect storm that
makes Bergamo an oasis of taste in the midst of a culinary
wasteland. Warm Mediterranean interiors include a fireplace
and sunny timber-beamed terrace, and it merely follows suit
that the menu be an exploration of southern European tastes
and ingredients. The results are excellent and theres no lack
of creativity in the chef specialities, including the Frutti di
Mare. With several banquet rooms on hand, its also worth
considering if youre planning more than a casual dinner. QO-
pen 11:00 - 23:00. (15-65z). PTA6UGBSW
Restauracja Bonaparte K- 4, ul. Paderewskiego
35, Chorzw (Arsenal Palace Hotel), tel. (+48) 32 606
84 40, www.stylehotels.pl. Not much surprise that in
Chorzws finest hotel you would also find its finest restau-
rant. Wonderfully elegant French interiors feature pristine
antique furnishings with a few columns and credenzas to
match the fine table settings. The menu of Mediterranean
and Polish dishes is such a masterpiece that it even makes
delicacies out of the local Silesian fare. Start things off with
salmon Carpaccio or caviar, fois gras fried in butter with honey
and apples or cold borsch with shrimp before graduating on
to a range of juicy steaks, veal, venison, lamb loin chops or
a fillet of grilled salmon in a cream sauce with capers served
on tomato ratatouille: hats off to the chef. The desserts are
to die for and you can finish the evening in the cellar cigar
bar. Very impressive start to finish. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00.
(25-89z). PTAUGBSW
Secesja M-3, ul. Grodowa 5a, Gliwice, tel. (+48) 32
332 18 51, www.secesja.gliwice.pl. Relive the time of
Art Nouveau inside this masterpiece. The decorations could
have been taken straight from a game of Cluedo what with
all the parlour plants and Ti ffany lamps, and its almost
tempting to dust off the smoking jacket before bowling up
here. For dinner pick from the likes of rabbit, duck, boar and
other regional and European dishes. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00,
Sun 12:00 - 24:00. (35-59z). PABXS
Stara Szkoa S-1, ul. Grunwaldzka 46, Zabrze, tel.
(+48) 32 273 01 30, www.stara-szkola.pl. A superb
garden with a landscaped pond and bbq pit make this a
great summer destination. Conversely the interior is a warm
warren of timber rooms that include wood-beamed ceilings,
a fireplace and salvaged antique detritus, from rusty cogs
to abacuses. The food served leaves no gap for seconds
with buckle-bursting portions of regional specialties, Ruskie
dishes and the usual collection of animals skewered and
cooked in every way imaginable. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00.
(13-35z). PTAGBS
Stek House Dada E-1, ul. Gen. Zajczka 17 (entrance
from ul. Poniatowskiego), tel. (+48) 32 205 61 03. If
there were such a thing as the beaten path in Katowice,
Stek House would certainly be off it, but its worth seeking
out if youre feeling particularly rapacious. With a variety of
choice cuts for carnivores, including the Argentine variety
and beef carpaccio; the soups are also delicious, highlighted
by the goulash and creme of broccoli with smoked salmon
and roasted almonds. Theres now an English menu, and the
pleasant staff are happy to help out. The intimate courtyard
in front of this ivy-covered building is a delightful spot to dig in
and drink the German beer on tap (Tucher). QOpen 12:00 -
22:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (27-85z). TAGBSW
Supernova M-3, ul. Grnych Waw 42, Gliwice, tel.
(+48) 32 400 42 30, www.supernova.gliwice.pl. Super-
nova reminds us of the aroma and anticipation that hits your
senses when youre opening the package of something tasty.
The dcor and interior style combine soft-toned earth colours
with smart and ultra-modern art-deco trimmings. Youll find
everything to be smart and fresh, from the art gallery/studio
style to the handy outdoor play area for those who are far too
young to enjoy the subtle touches of Feng Shui. The menu is,
once again, heavy on the Italian side, with a touch of French
to compliment the theme of the dcor. The prices are modern
as well, so we recommend you take advantage of the 20
zloty lunch menu served weekdays. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
(18-75z). PTAUGSW
Szafranowy Dwr ul. Bdziska 82, Czelad, tel.
(+48) 32 763 80 00, www.szafranowydwor.pl. Found
13km from downtown Katowice, the Szafranowy Manor, to
give it its English name, forms part of an attractive, modern
complex including a hotel. Inside youll find a series of series
of rooms of which this is the more formal dining area. Find a
rather impressive menu consisting of meats, pastas, salads
and fish dishes with the steaks and the desserts both receiv-
ing top marks, in a modern, rustic setting with a fireplace and
fountain setting off the whole look. QOpen 13:00 - 22:00.
(35-70z). PTAUGBSW
ul. Stawowa 3, Katowice
tel. 32 781 55 55, fax. 32 259 98 65
Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 23:00
www.restauracjapatio.pl
biuro@restauracjapatio.pl
characterised by
family traditions
and culinary experience
Restauracja Szafranowy Dwr
Grill - Bar
ul. Bdziska 82, Czelad
+48 32 763 80 00
www.szafranowydwor.pl
e-mail rezerwacja@szafranowydwor.pl
Open: 7:00 - 24:00
UNI QUE CLI MATE
EXQUI SI TE TASTE
34
RESTAURANTS
35
RESTAURANTS
Tatiana D-3, ul. Staromiejska 5, tel. (+48) 32 203 74
13, www.restauracjatatiana.pl. A long, thin restaurant
with elegant, cleverly designed wooden floors and ceilings,
the organic design is enhanced with enough bamboo and
random reeds to attract a wild rove of pandas. One of
Katowices finer and suitably popular establishments, the
newly changed menu features an extensive range of Slavic
and European dishes including Moscow borsch and steaks
as well as the usual selection of fish dishes to keep the local
riff raff happy. Though the waitstaff is forced to wear slightly
silly green aprons, they manage to keep their dignity and
can help advise on whats good and whats not-so good to
eat. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 24:00. (20-90z).
TAUGBSW
NEW
Zaks C-1, Plac Wolnoci 9, tel. (+48) 32 253 02 23,
www.restauracjazaks.pl. Located right on Plac Wolnosci,
Zaks is a corner of tranquillity and a nice contrast from
the hectic bump and grind outside. The old-fashioned and
quaintly cosy interior fools you into thinking the menu will
only have a few of grandmas favourite dishes, but they
manage to have an enormous selection in a compara-
tively small restaurant. Daily specials let you try the local
cuisine affordably, and there is a small bar i f you decide to
spontaneously upgrade your dinner plans. QOpen 09:00
- 22:00, Sat 15:00 - 22:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (17-40z).
PAVGS
Italian
Cristallo D-3, ul. Dworcowa 5 (Monopol Hotel), tel.
(+48) 32 782 82 09, www.lhr.com.pl. Climb a grand
marble staircase to reach Cristallo, the stunning show-
piece restaurant of the Monopol Hotel. A glass roof allows
guests to watch the evening unravel above them, while
the discreet interiors of bare brick walls and steel tubing
lend a minimalist aesthetic to the experience. Select from
the imaginative Italian-inspired menu with choices such
as beef sirloin with ginger sauce and confit vegetables.
You pay for the quality here, and it comes as no surprise
that diners trek across Silesia to do so. Q Open 12:00 -
23:00. From September open 17:00 - 23:00. (50-85z).
PTAUEGSW
La Grotta C-2, ul. Wawelska 3, tel. (+48) 512 51 74
36. La Grotta enjoys a reputation as one of Katowices better
restaurants, and thats why youll find it buzzing throughout
the week. A multi-level interior comes with lots of pictures
and posters attached to the walls, while the small but diverse
menu features everything from pizza to fresh clams. Hedging
their bets the kitchen also supplies pierogi and a few other lo-
cal dishes. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. (16-47z). AGBSW
NEW
Pod Starym Drzewem C-2, ul. 3 Maja 38, tel. (+48)
32 205 06 86. Tree and wood puns aside, Pod Starym
Drzewem takes things back to nature. If you dont mind - or
even look forward to - indoor plant-life and wooden dcor in
all directions, then youll enjoy a big and affordable meal in
this semi-hidden locale. The Italian-Polish menu reflects what
has become ubiquitous in Poland, and they do it quite well
and at the right price. They have good, low prices covering
your typical Italian dishes and most Polish Milk Bar fares.
The lunch specials are a steal, and you can add a soup to
an entre for only one zloty. So, if you fancy a slice of pizza
with your pierogi, or dining in what would surpass the tree-
house dreams of your inner child; come by for a good meal
and genuinely first-rate ambience. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00,
Mon, Tue 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun. (9-25z). PTVXS
Sicilia D-2, ul. Kochanowskiego 2, tel. (+48) 32 251
79 90, www.sycylia.com. Moody waitresses, three sizes
of pizza plus soup and pasta inside a Mediterranean-feel
restaurant with colourful tiles on the walls and a fairly decent
wine list. The service is far from fast and efficient and the food
isnt going to win any awards, but if you dont mind waiting
as well as being made to feel like youre giving the staff work
theyd rather not be doing, this isnt such a bad place for a
spot of lunch when exploring the area. Also at ul. Chorzowska
107 (Silesia City Center, A-1). QOpen 12:00 - 22:30. (19-75z).
PTAVGSW
Via Toscana C-3, ul. Uniwersytecka 13, tel. (+48) 32
603 01 91, www.viatoscana.pl. A sensory delight inside
Altus Tower with interiors touting archways, lampposts, vines
and even mock balconies. Its every much as delightful on
the palette as it is on the eye, with a menu featuring New
Zealand lamb, Argentinean beef, a great pickled salmon
carpaccio and seafood. Equally suited to romantic trysts
or hushed business dinners, Via Toscania is further proof
of Katowices growing stature. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00. (20-
100z). PTAUXSW
Japanese
Hana Sushi A-1, ul. Chorzowska 109, tel. (+48) 32
605 09 77, www.hanasushi.pl. A former swimming pool
attached to one of Katowices closed coal mines, this lovely
brick building has been refitted once again to house the citys
best sushi house. With the added advantage of being at the
Silesian City Centre, yet sovereign over its own independent
space and atmosphere, Hana Sushi boasts a rich menu rife
with Japanese delicacies for those still suspicious of the
sushi fad. If you dont feel like making your way to Silesias
biggest shopping mall, enjoy free delivery by picking up the
phone, chop-chop. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.
(28-68z). PTAUVGSW
Hobu D-3, ul. Plebiscytowa 10, tel. (+48) 32 203 00
10, www.hobusushi.pl. A trendy venue with green, see-
through plastic seats, pieces of origami and some zebra-print
fittings. It looks hi-tech and minimal, and the sushi sets play
their part in winning return customers. Those squeamish of
raw-fish (particularly hundreds of miles from the sea) havent
been overlooked, and the menu includes numerous cooked
dishes including teriyaki duck and teppanyaki. QOpen 12:00
- 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. (35-
66z). TA6GBSW
Kyoto Sushi C-3, ul. Uniwersytecka 13, tel. (+48) 32
603 01 66, www.kyotosushi.com.pl. Located up the first
set of escalators inside the swanky Altus Centre, this large,
excellent Japanese restaurant comes with lots of wood trim-
mings, a tinkling tranquility pond in the centre and a sushi
canal built into the fine wooden bar, behind which the masters
are at their work. Choose from Nigiri, Maki, Sashimi and
classic Japanese dishes, washing it down with a Japanese
beer or splash 105z down for 0.75 litres of sake. QOpen
12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00.
(39-79z). PTAUGSW
Narada Sushi Club E-1, ul. Barbary 13, tel. (+48) 795
59 44 65, www.narada-sushi.pl. We dont profess to be
experts on sushi, but were fairly certain this isnt the best
youll find. The simple white interior resembles a hotel lobby
and has about the same amount of atmosphere, anchored
by ambient music, a fountain, some lousy murals and a long
stooled bar: dont expect to see sushi being prepared behind
it, but the recent addition of a liquer license has gratefully put
the barman to work. Asked if our sushi could arrive before
I t was 1953 and an el -
derl y Polish woman was
settling into her seat on
a trai n bound for Kato-
wi ce. She had stowed
her bel ongi ngs and set
out her lunch, including
a famil y heirl oom, a sal t
shaker, on t he t abl e.
Just before the train was
to depar t she heard a
startling announcement.
This train wasnt going to
Katowice after all. It was
headed for a fri ghtful sounding place. Franti call y she
gathered her things in her arms and rushed to get of f
the train. In her haste she fell and hi t her head and
broke the treasured shaker. Taken to hospi tal wi th
a bad concussion, she was revi ved then questioned
about her sudden departure from the carriage. She
explai ned her mishap to the doctor: She had onl y
wanted to go to Katowi ce not to Russia. The doc-
tor smil ed in seeing her mistake, then repli ed that
the woman had been on the correct train, but that
Katowi ce now had a new name, one i mposed by
Moscow: Stalinogrd.
That story from the 2009 collection Train to Stalinogrd
and Other Stories by Andrzej Kozio, reveals much about
life in the early days of the Peoples Republic of Poland
(or PRL using the Polish acronym). It demonstrates the
confusion and chaos of Polands monumental post-
World War II change from fighting Nazis to coping with
Communists.
At least a dozen more cities in other Soviet satellites re-
ceived the gift of a name change, including Stalinstadt,
East Germany (now Eisenhttenstadt near Brandenburg,
Germany) and plainly Stalin, Bulgaria (now Varna).
After the Red Army took over Katowice in 1945 following
the retreat of the Germans, a new Communist govern-
ment took over. They determined the city needed more
of everything more space, bigger buildings and larger
factories. To be sure in 1953, the year of Joseph Stalins
death, the newly renamed Stalinogrd benefited from the
internal dynamics of the Polish and Soviet Communist
parties, likely gaining support for public works and
other projects to honor the glory of the once fearsome
leader. The famous Spodek arena was conceived in
1955, the result of a design competition for a large
exhibition space.
But Stalinogrd was a short-lived moment in the citys
history. Under an intense public backlash and with the
memory of Stalins death fading and the Partys at-
tempt to distance itself from cults of personality, Polish
authorities changed the name back to Katowice after
just three long years.
Today the city has mostly removed traces of its op-
pressive Communist legacy and is now focused on
greater integration with Europe and the West. But the
heavy industrialization of the region owes much to the
Soviet Union and though the name may have long gone,
Stalinisation left its mark.
Stalinogrd
pl.wikipedia.org.
36
RESTAURANTS
37
RESTAURANTS
our appetiser (hmm), when it was brought to the table our
waitress then inexplicably asked if wed like some kind of
massage. In the moments uncertainty, we declined and now
have to live with that regret (dont make our mistake, it may
be the best part of your evening). QOpen 12:00 - 22:00.
(27-67z). PTAUVGBSW
Sushi Arigato M- 3, ul. Wodna 5, Gliwice, tel.
(+48) 32 231 60 47, www.sushiarigato.pl. Gl i wi ce
mi ght seem an unl i kel y spot to provi de for your sushi
needs, but the raw fi sh here cer tai nl y comes up to
scratch. A stark whi te i nteri or punctuated by some
Japanese artwork is the setting, whil e the menu invol ves
a run down of al l your stapl e sushi hi ts. Al so on of fer i s
a bri ef sel ecti on of sashi mi, as wel l as cooked di shes
l i ke fri ed ki ng prawns. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (12-43z).
PTAVGS
Middle Eastern
Sphinx G-5, ul. Puaskiego 60, tel. (+48) 32 608 22 57,
www.sphinx.pl. If youve travelled across Poland then you
should be well-aware of Sphinx a chain famous for serving
literally hoards of people shoarmas, gyros, pizza and steaks.
Cheap, simple and slightly kitschy, it hits the right notes with
many Poles thanks in no small part to huge portions and
low prices. Find this one inside the Real Hypermarket while
they are also present in the Galeria Chorzowska centre at
(I-2) ul. Wolnoci 38 in Chorzw, (R-2) ul. Wolnoci 279 in
Zabrze. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 - 19:00. (10-60z).
PTAUGSW
Polish
Bar Pod Sidemka C-2, ul. Stawowa 7, tel. (+48) 32
258 66 18. A good place to sample the traditional nosh on
one of Katowices most peopled streets. Decked with netting,
frayed ropes and funny cariacatures of potential patrons
on the walls, here youll find little more than honest people
eating honest food and a cute, chirpy blonde collecting the
orders. Q Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
From October open 09:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
(10-20z). TVBS
Bryka H-1, ul. Wolnoci 4, Chorzw, tel. (+48) 32
241 47 47, www.bryka.com.pl. How coul d anyone
resist a restaurant wi th eye-curdli ng carpets covered
in squiggles draped everywhere, including on the walls,
and a menu that includes award-winning urek lski?
Wel come to the wei rd and wonder ful worl d of Bryka,
complete with a huge menu of Polish dishes, a chandelier
the size of Belgium and very cute minstrel gallery. Smash-
ing. QOpen 08:30 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (10-62z).
PTAUVS
Chata z Zalipia D-3, ul. Wojewdzka 15, tel. (+48)
32 205 33 00, www.chatazzalipia.pl. Paying homage
to the speci fic folk art tradition of the Maopolska village
of Zalipie, the rustic cottage interior of this pleasant peas-
ant offering features elaborate flower murals on the white
walls, garlic garlands hanging from timber beams and plenty
of other farm fittings. I f youre not familiar with Polands
famous Bolesawiec folk ceramic, you will be after a trip
here where filling, Polish home-cooking is served on the
beauti fully decorated dishware, including the prerequisite
pre-meal smalec (animal lard spread on bread). Waitresses
in traditional dress and atrocious disco folk music round
out what serves as a great introduction to Polish cuisine.
QOpen 12: 00 - 22: 00, Sun 12: 00 - 21: 00. (8-42z).
PTA6UEGSW
Gazdwka N-3, ul. Dworcowa 30, Gliwice, tel. (+48)
32 301 98 76, www.gazdowka.pl. This Gral chata, or
Polish mountain lodge theme restaurant, is all rough-hewn
timber and large wooden tables. Carved-wood menus reveal
a menagerie of meats, edible animals and hearty mountain
specialties presented in the Polish gral dialect as well as
proper Polish, German and English. A warm escape from
sometimes gloomy Gliwice, meals are preceded by bread
with animal grease (smalec) and a veggie herb spread for
those who somehow lack an innate love for lard. Our pork
with honey-mustard sauce was a delicious departure and the
garlic soup enough to thwart any potential vamps from enter-
ing our personal space for the next 24 hours. QOpen 11:30
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 11:30 - 01:00. (16-45z). PTAUGS
Restauracja Monopol D-3, ul. Dworcowa 5 (Monopol
Hotel), tel. (+48) 32 782 82 82, www.lhr.com.pl. Closed
until September, its hard to imagine you could go wrong by
choosing the flagship restaurant of the finest hotel in town.
Indeed theres nothing to be disappointed about at the Mo-
nopol - a name which has become associated with reliably high
quality dining, design and service across southern Poland.
Choose from a changing menu of local and European delica-
cies that literally makes the mouth water - roe deer saddle
with buckwheat pilaff and cumin cabbage - and features an
excellent wine list. The formal belle epoque interior of wooden
floors and marble finishing is adorned with pre-war black and
white photographs of Silesia, giving Monopol an appealing
air of the old days; you know, the good ones. Q Open from
September 08:00 - 23:00. (65-80z). PTAUGSW
Rycerski ul. Bdziska 53, (Hotel Rycerski), Czelad,
tel. (+48) 32 763 58 88, www.hotel-rycerski.pl. Located
in what appears to be a wooden mountain chalet (but is in
fact the Hotel Rycerski), this is a very decent place to take
in the Polish food experience. Heavy wooden bench-style
furniture, waitresses dressed up a mountain wenches and
large servings of well-prepared Polish grub are actually worth
the trip out here, even if youre not staying in the adjacent
hotel. Lots of seating and a well-stocked bar mean that the
atmosphere often develops into that of a thriving beer hall.
QOpen 07:00 - 22:30. (30 - 80z). PTAUBXSW
Skarbek E-2, ul. Powstacw 25, tel. (+48) 32 255 46
00. Smashing home-made urek, roast duck and gobki
(cabbage leaves stuff with meat) in the restaurant that time
forgot. Check your hat and coat on entry, dont be surprised
to find yourself sat next to a former top Party official, and
spend a delightful time conversing in sign language with one
of several sultry waitresses with a combined age of about
700 years. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00. (22-35z). GBS
U Babuni E-1, ul. Kiliskiego 16, tel. (+48) 32 250 01
03, www.restauracjaubabuni.pl. Old farming implements
on the walls, a huge spiderweb made from rope and a few
charming folk-art paintings create a very non-Katowice
atmosphere in one of the few traditional restaurants in
town. The waiters have eschewed the ethnic look in favour
of something altogether more penguinesque, and the food
features the usual Polish dishes as well as a few vegetarian
options. As one would expect in a traditional Polish country-
style restaurant, the music comes courtesy of Bob Marley.
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. (11-35z).
TAVXS
Vena E-3, ul. Jagielloska 4, tel. (+48) 32 203 68 61,
www.pierogiswiata.pl. Not the greatest looking venue from
the street (but then what is in Katowice?), Vena is the citys
best option to try out that staple of the Polish menu - the
pierogi. The dcor, simple and a tad clinical, is spruced up
Those wanting to take a quick foxtrot through the world
of the Polish kitchen should consider putting the follow-
ing to the test:
Smalec: Fried lard, often served complimentary before
a meal with hunks of homemade bread. It sounds evil,
but it works like a miracle any day, especiall y an arctic
one. Ideally partnered with a mug of local beer. Any Polish
restaurant worth its sal t should give you lashings of this
prior to your meal. You onl y need ask.
Soup: Keep your eyes peeled for Polands two signature
soups; urek (sour rye soup with sausages and potatoes
floating in it) and barszcz (beetroot, occasionally with dump-
lings thrown in). Table manners go out of the window when
eating these two, so feel free to dunk bread rolls in them.
Bigos: Youll either love it or vomit. Bigos, a.k.a hunters
stew, is made using meat, cabbage, onion and sauerkraut
before being left to simmer for a few days. If you have
second helpings then consider yourself a Pole by defaul t.
Gobki: Boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with beef, onion
and rice before being baked in a tomato sauce. Urban
myth claims Polands King Kazimierz fed his army gobki
before his victory outside Malbork in a battle against the
Teutonic Order. The unlikel y victory was attributed to the
hearty meal his troops had enjoyed before hand.
Kiebasa: Sausages, and in Poland youll find several variet-
ies made primarily with pork, but sometimes using turkey,
horse, lamb and even bison. Few varieties to watch for includ-
ing Krakowska, a Krakw specialty which uses pepper and
garlic, kabanosy which is a thin, dry sausage flavoured with
carraway seed and wiejska; a monster-looking u-shaped
sausage. Kiebasa was also the nickname of one of Polands
most notorious gangland figures of the 90s.
Pierogi: Pockets of dough traditionall y filled with meat,
cabbage or cheese, though you will also occasionall y
find maverick fillings such as chocolate or strawberries.
Placki: Nothing more than potato pancakes, often paired
wi th lashings of sour cream. Again, all your tradi tional
folksy Polish restaurants will have these on the menu, if
not you have every right to raise a few questions in the
direction of the kitchen.
Zapiekanki: Also known as Polish pizza. Take a stale
baguette, pour mel ted cheese on it and then cover it
wi th mushrooms and ketchup from a squeezy bottle.
Best eaten when absolutel y plastered. Where to buy it:
various fast food cabins dotted around the city centre.
Dessert: Few things in life get a Pole more animated than
a good dessert. Sernik (a kind of cheesecake) being a
must if you want to even attempt to convince a Pole you
have visited their country.
Kaszanka: This is the Polish variation of blood sausage,
in this case pigs blood mixed with groats, and is generally
served fried with onions. Unlike in other countries it is not
served in the form of a sausage. A variation on the blood dish
is Czernina, a soup made of ducks blood mixed with poultry
broth. An interesting tale is attached to this dish as it was the
dish served by the parents of young women to her suitors
as a sign that their proposal of marriage was not accepted.
Polish Food
A lot has changed over years since communism got
kneecapped and Poland joined the EU. Today a destina-
tion as popular as Poland hardly seems any more alien
or adventurous to tourists than well-frequented Paris or
Venice. And while many of the old ways of the old days
have disappeared or become slightly disneyfied, one
relic remains steadfastly un-Western: the Polish milk bar.
These steamy cafeterias serving traditional cuisine to
an endless queue of tramps, pensioners and students
provide a grim glimpse into Eastern Bloc Poland and
have all the atmosphere (and sanitary standards) of a
gas station restroom. We love them. For the cost of a
few coins you can eat like an orphaned street urchin,
albeit an extremely well-fed one. Put the museums on
hold, a visit to the milk bar (bar mleczny in Polish) is a
required cultural experience for anyone who has just set
foot in the country.
As in so many things, Krakw has the distinction of be-
ing the birthplace of the bar mleczny. Polands first milk
bar was actually opened on Krakws market square
on May 30th 1948 in the townhouse now occupied by
the upstanding Szara restaurant. Named Pod Bak
(Under the Milk Churn), originally no hot dishes were
served; this was a place where you went simply to enjoy
milk (hence the name), humbly served in .25 litre glass
with a straw (so classy). Run by the government, this
was the new partys clever attempt at popularising
milk-drinking (as opposed to moonshine), inspired by
Polands large surplus of dairy products. As restaurants
were nationalised and then shut down by PLs communist
authorities, more and more milk bars appeared across
the country and began offering cheap, dairy-based meals
to the masses and especially workers; quite often meals
at the local milk bar were included in a workers salary.
By the mid-60s milk bars were widely prevalent across
Poland as the party concept was to provide cheap, fast
food to everyone (as cheerlessly as possible apparently).
In addition to milk, yoghurt, cottage cheese and other
dairy concoctions, milk bars offered omelettes and egg
cutlets, as well as flour-based foods like pierogi. Times
were so desperate under communism that many bar
mleczny resorted to chaining the cutlery to the table to
deter rampant thievery; by this same reasoning youll still
notice today that most milk bars use disposable dishes
and the salt and pepper are dispensed from plastic cups
with a spoon. Similarly, the orders are still taken by blue-
haired, blue-veined, all-business babcias -and the food
is as inspired as ever, the only difference being meat
isnt rationed any more in modern PL. Indeed, todays
milk bars evoke a timelessness to be savoured just as
the milk soup with noodles served to schoolchildren in
PL in the 1980s was. With the collapse of communism
most bar mleczny went bankrupt, however, fortunately
for us all, some of these feed museums were saved and
continue to be kept open and dirt cheap through state
subsidies. The range of available dishes begins to fall
off as closing time approaches, so go early, go often.
Bar Uniwersalny C-2, ul. Stawowa 7, tel. (+48) 32
206 98 24. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00. (10-16z). 6GS
Dworcowy O-2, ul. Okopowa 8, Gliwice, tel. (+48)
32 291 26 81. QOpen 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 -
15:00. Closed Sun. (9-12z). G
Europa C-3, ul. Mickiewicza 8, tel. (+48) 32 259
66 96. QOpen 07:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun.
Milk Bars
38
RESTAURANTS
39
CAFS
Artystyczna C-3, Al. Korfantego 6, tel. (+48) 32 258
96 64, www.kawiarniaartystyczna.com.pl. What was
clearly once a horrid commie caf has undergone a rather
dubious transformation and is now a horrid modern caf.
Entirely lacking in charm, one wall is covered in photographs
of stars of the Polish stage and screen, whilst another has
been covered in some particularly bad art. Considering this is
an artists caf, one wonders what on earth they were think-
ing when they modernised the place. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Closed Sun. PAUGBSW
Caffe Bar N57 C-1, ul. Gliwicka 57, tel. (+48) 501 59
75 55. A brave attempt at bringing a little sophistication to
Katowices caf scene, the coffee may not be the best in the
world but its an okay place to devour cakes and tea on one
of the sprawling sofas in the front area by the bar. QOpen
10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. T6GS
Caffeine Caf C-2, ul. 3 Maja 13, tel. (+48) 509 34 12
65. Attempting to create a little minimalist coffee chic is a
brave thing to do and could be achieved inside this average
little place with the removal of the train station across the
street and the introduction of some decent-tasting coffee.
Essentially a limp-wristed attempt at Starbucks that misses
the mark by miles. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
PTA6UGBSW
Chopin Frykasy Fryderyka D-3, ul. Dyrekcyjna 6,
tel. (+48) 32 253 77 55, www.chopin.katowice.pl. A
microscopic venture popular with elderly ladies and their
laptop-wielding granddaughters in need of a quick caffeine
injection, the coffee here is some of the best to be found in
the city. Theres also a fine selection of cakes, which they
will give you a 10% discount for take-away and, best of all, a
large refrigerator full of good-looking and even better tasting
ice cream. Also at ul. 3 Maja 40 (H-2). Open 09:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00,
Sun 11:00 - 18:00. From October open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat
09:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. PTAGBS
Fanaberia E-2, ul. Wita Stwosza 6, tel. (+48) 32 200
01 67, www.fanaberia.katowice.pl. Swap your shoes for
a Turkish water pipe and a backgammon board, lounging
on the colourful carpets and cushions of the glass atrium,
or drink a Czech microbrew in one of the fantastic hanging
wicker basket seats of this groovy tea house. Full of oriental
ambience, Fanaberia features bright red and blue walls,
elegant chandeliers, curtains and wall-hangings and offers
coffee, cakes and a large selection of teas from all over the
world. If youd rather steep yourself in alcohol, you wont find
a better selection in the city than here with meads, wines
and sake available alongside the regional beers. Honestly,
Katowice makes us proud every time we walk in this place.
Recommended. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 01:00.
From September open 10:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 01:00,
Sun 15:00 - 24:00. PA6GW
Gaudi C-2, ul. Wawelska 2, tel. (+48) 32 253 87 75. Co-
lourful reptiles, freaky chairs, mosaics galore and weird, white
moulded walls inside a fitting tribute to the Spanish genius.
Strip away the fun and youre left with a good cellar caf serv-
ing strong coffee, sticky cakes and a large range of herb teas.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 22:00. PAGBS
Kawiarnia Wawelska C-2, ul. Wawelska 1, tel. (+48)
505 89 80 61. On what has developed into Katowices coffee
and cakes corridor, this cafe is favoured by big-haired varicose-
veined clients who look as if they dressed for church but the
preacher wasnt in so they came here for a coffee instead. The
wide range of coffee drinks and tantalising ice cream concoc-
tions can be enjoyed in the red interior or seasonal terrace,
but youll have to specify whether you want espresso or a
Turkish toothbrushing: apparently theyre equally popular here.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. T6GBS
Monopol D-3, ul. Dworcowa 5 (Monopol Hotel), tel.
(+48) 32 782 82 07, www.lhr.com.pl. Inside the hotel
of the same name the Monopols in-house caf bar offers
decent coffee and plenty of class with an interior that recalls
Katowices golden age. Here its all parlour palms, marble
surfaces and sepia images of the city in its industrial heyday.
Floor-to-ceiling windows encourage hurrying passersby to gaze
in with envy. Hotel guests receive a 10 percent discount on
their bill. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. PTA6UEGSW
Nugat E-3, ul. Ligonia 28, tel. (+48) 32 781 70 08. Cute
as a quilting grandmother, Nugat offers an assortment of
ice cream, cream cakes, tortes and other sweet desserts,
as well as very strong coffee. The service isnt quite as
cheerful as the cake displays and pistachio-green walls
covered in needlepoint tapestries, but the beautiful old wicker
furnishings are worth sitting down to lick a spoon in. QOpen
07:00 - 17:00, Sat 07:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. TAGS
ojoj C-2, ul. 3 Maja 20, tel. (+48) 32 203 44 39,
www.o-joj.prv.pl. Hidden away inside a small courtyard
and down a little flight of steps, ojoj is overflowing with
art, junk, students, an upright piano, the soothing songs of
Marilyn Monroe and a choice of herb teas and beer. Beauti-
fully bizarre, the fact that its overseen by a couple in their
50s makes ojoj seem like an unlikely place to find students
skipping class, but there you have it. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00,
Sat, Sun 16:00 - 22:00. 6G
Russian
Fanaberia D-3, ul. Dyrekcyjna 1, tel. (+48) 32 609 87
84. A beautifully decorated, sumptuous cellar restaurant
with an extraordinary glass-fronted, white teracotta stove as
its centrepiece, featuring immaculately turned-out waiters on
hand to ferry dishes including potato pancakes with caviar
and sour cream, delicious casseroles in earthenware pots
and the prerequisite blini offerings to your table. QOpen
12:00 - 24:00. (25-60z). PTA6GS
Thai
Sekrety Tajlandii (Secrets of Thailand) D-3, ul.
Wojewdzka 21, tel. (+48) 32 254 66 42, www.sekre-
tytajlandii.pl. Frogs legs in garlic sauce, a galaxy of phat
phet, rice, noodles and french fries amidst vaguely Oriental
splashes such as a dragon on the wall, served by young
Poles to the strains of a soundtrack featuring everything
from Thai hits to Michael Jackson. The menu is in something
not unlike English, and despite the heavy Polish influences
the food isnt bad at all. QOpen 12:00 - 22:00. (20-36z).
PTAVGS
Vegetarian
Zoty Osio (The Golden Ass) D-3, ul. Mariacka 1,
tel. (+48) 501 46 56 90. We often judge a citys merits
on whether or not it has a proper vegetarian restaurant, and
in this regard Katowice scores some much-needed points.
The cheekily named Golden Ass features laidback music,
bright psychedlic wall patterns and tablecloths, and fertile
murals wherein zodiac characters, Buddha and Grecian urns
are able to coexist as peacably as the aging hippies, young
activists, punk rockers, and school teachers that make up
the clientele. The budget food shows a lot more creative
flair than the rest of the local cuisine, and here you can pick
up flyers on everything from yoga classes to alternative
rock concerts. Also at ul. Grota Roweckiego 20, Sosnowiec.
Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun
12:00 - 22:00. (11z). TA6GSW
Zoty Osio N-3, ul. Wyszyskiego 14d, Gliwice, tel.
(+48) 516 08 31 13. Gliwices alternative lifestyle grubbing
grounds: apparently there are people in Poland that dont
eat pork cutlets everyday and you can meet them here - a
friendly ensemble of pasture grazing young revolutionaries,
yoga instructors, buddhists, musicians and middle-aged
school teachers. The walls and windowsills of Zoty Osio
have been thoroughly flyered and the delicious meat-free
meals cost the same as kebab, while being signi ficantly
more indy and digestible. QOpen 11:00 - 20:00. Closed
Sun. (11z). TGBSW
Vietnamese
Little Hanoi...and more! D-3, ul. Staromiejska 4,
tel. (+48) 886 62 33 88, www.littlehanoi.pl. Set on
a pedestrianised street in the heart of Katowice within
walking distance of the train station and Katowices Market
Square Little Hanoi was the best new find of this issue.
Granted, the mi ni mal dcor contai ni ng the obl i gatory
lanterns, decent Vietnamese dishes and friendly staff are
not unique in Poland, but as far as eating options in central
Katowice go, this is a definite step in the right direction. The
spicy soup was, the ribs were delicious and the beef Bo Luc
Lac was excellent. Wash it down with a Lime Nuoc Chanh
and like us youll be forti fied for the evening ahead with
hardly a dent made in your wallet. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00.
(20-40z). PAGBS
a little with a little bit Middle East and a little bit Far East.
These seemingly unrelated themes are continued in the
menu where youll find the Polish pockets of dough containing
exotic fillings such as chicken, vegetables and spicy sauce,
an Egyptian version containing musaca and a Norwegian
version containing salmon and risotta cheese. They also
have a range of other Polish dishes such as chicken fillets but
with an English language menu, very affordable (read cheap)
prices and a friendly woman working the place, you could do
a lot worse for food without pretence. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00.
(15-19z). PA6GSW
Wiejska Chatka (The Rustic Hut) A-3, Pl. Grun-
waldzki 4, tel. (+48) 32 350 30 10, www.wiejskach-
atka.com.pl. A cavalcade of over the top, country-style
adornments such as old farming tools and painted flowers
on the walls inside a fairytale interior make Katowices only
truly classic traditional Polish restaurant the place to head to
if youve not experienced such nonsense before. In true Polish
style the music policy was devised by a steering committee
of five-year-olds, but the overall kitsch effect and the decent
local dishes on offer make Wiejska Chatka an experience not
to be missed when in town. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. (15-38z).
PTA6GBSW
Zakonnicy (The Monks) C-1, Pl. Wolnoci 6, tel. (+48)
32 781 84 86, www.zakonnicy.pl. A restaurant with a
monk theme no less, featuring a menu of ecclesiastical dishes
including Lucifers soup, monastic spare ribs and ice-cream
penances. The interior is decorated with some charming and
occasionally comical pictures of monks and the music comes
courtesy of Gregorian chants. Even better, the management
hasnt stopped at the gimmick alone, ensuring diners get
quality food and even better service when they visit. QOpen
10:00 - 21:30, Sat 12:00 - 21:30. (24-47z). TA6GS
Czesaw Miosz (1911-2004) has come to be regarded as
the finest Polish writer of the 20th century, his work influenc-
ing generations of natives and foreigners alike. Born in what
is now Lithuania, Milosz opted to study law graduating in
1934. He published his first collection of poetry that same
year, and in 1937 took a position at a Wilno (Vilnius) radio
station. It was to prove a disastrous union and he was fired
for his lefty views. He took another job in radio in Warsaw,
though was out of town on holiday when the outbreak of
WWII was announced. The next few years saw him lead a
transient existence from escaping the clutches of the
Red Army in Lithuania, to seeking refuge in Romania, to
working as a janitor in wartime Warsaw. With the war over
Milosz moved to Krakow, taking up digs on ul. Krupnicza
22. His best known work remains his 1953 masterpiece
The Captive Mind, a challenging tome which investigates
the intellectual psyche. Depending on which source you
believe he either relocated to Paris as a cultural attach,
or was sent to Washington, in a similar role. Either way by
1970 he was a US citizen as well as a lecturer at Berkeley,
and in 1978 he received the Neustadt International Prize for
Literature. More success followed and two years later he
was awarded the Nobel Prize for Literature. Milosz returned
to Poland after the fall of the Iron Curtain, splitting his time
between Krakw and the US. He died in 2004 and is buried
in the crypt Krakows Skalka Church. 2011 is Miosz Year
to commemorate the 100th anniversary of his birth and a
program of events organised in Poland and abroad. Included
in this is a series of readings by Stephen Fry of Miloszs work.
For more details see www.milosz365.pl
Czesaw Miosz
If youve noticed the two candy-striped smokestacks
near the centre of Katowice and it would be particularly
difficult not to if youve taken a walk to Kociuszki Park
(F-1) across the street thats the Wujek coal mine, a
fully operating industrial ogre which nicely illustrates
Katowices pervasive juxtaposition of the unseemly
alongside the aesthetically pleasing. Though the history
of coal extraction in the region predates the city of Kato-
wice, Wujek wasnt officially established until 1899 when
six smaller mines were incorporated into one complex.
Fifteen years later the mine served as a labour camp
for WWI POWs. After the war, the name changed from
the German Oheim to Wujek Polish for uncle and
became a symbol of the prosperity of the newly annexed
Polish territory, until the Germans once again oversaw
its wasteful exploitation during their second world war
effort not twenty years after that. Nazi war atrocities be-
ing what they were, the most infamous day in the history
of the mine came on December 16th, 1981 when seven
miners were shot dead on the spot and two more died in
the hospital following your standard Soviet show of force
or pacification as the politicos called it provoked by
a miners strike during martial law. Today the Memorial
Cross of the Wujek Miners stands in their honour on the
same spot where tanks rammed through the fencing of
the premises. Unveiled in 1991 by Lech Walsa himself,
the 32-metre tall monument includes the wooden cross
which has stood at the site since the incident. The names
of the fallen miners are inscribed on the right-hand side
of the structure which also features nine cross-shaped
torches interwoven to create a symbolic gateway at the
mines entrance at ul. Wincentego Pola 65.
Wujek
40
NIGHTLIFE
41
NIGHTLIFE
attitude befitting the name, keeping its sticky tables and floor
populated with students early evening to late night. The upside
is neverending drink specials (3.50z beers on Mondays); the
downside is it took about 2.5 minutes for someone to spill
beer on us (at 19:30!). QOpen 11:00 - 04:00. PUEBX
City Pub C-2, ul. 3 Maja 23, tel. (+48) 32 253 97 99,
www.citypub.pl. The pub that always comes up when enqui-
ries are made about the best places to drink in town, City Pub
has an impressively long door queue, but its legendary status
doesnt really fit whats essentially a series of large rooms
stitched together with a collection of bored-looking people. On
the plus side, the two bars both serve Guinness, and its an as-
advertised heaving den of sweaty delinquency on any Friday or
Saturday night; however it must be said that the place is a bit
gloomy and could do with some fresh air. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. PAUBXW
NEW
Cocktail Bar D-3, ul. Mariacka 6, tel. (+48) 883 99 53
72. A more pragmatic albeit a bit unimaginative name would
be hard to find. Cocktail Bar has found an excellent location to
provide for you just what their name would suggest; copious
amounts of cocktails. Theyve only just opened their doors,
so well have to update our review for them in November
after weve had some time to enjoy the new digs and try a
namesake, or two. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. PAGBW
Geneza Jazz & Blues Club D-5, ul. Warszawska 66,
tel. (+48) 694 90 69 95. A fine venue for a drink if you find
yourself sticking your neck out in this neck of the woods, but
not so fine for catching a live concert as they only happen
about once a month. That disappointment aside, Geneza is a
relaxed bar full of funky art with faux-cubist windows, impres-
sionist canvases and abstract murals, as well as the seemingly
Katowices nightli fe seems to be improving steadily, with
more and more bars and clubs opening that hold themselves
to a higher creative standard. And while out on the street
on a Saturday night the city may seem like tomb, trust us
- theres many a good time to be had if you look in the right
place. Lacking a centralised drinking district, use our help
to find the citys hedonist hideouts. As in other parts of this
guide the places covered here are located throughout the
conglomeration. If the venue is not in Katowice town itself,
we have added the name of the town it is in to the address
after a comma along with a map reference if applicable.
Districts of Katowice are shown in brackets.
Bars & Pubs
Archibar C-3, ul. Dyrekcyjna 9, tel. (+48) 32 206 83 50,
www.archibar.pl. This is as cool as Katowice gets, so if you dont
like it you may as well take the rest of those sleeping pills. Groovy
little Archibar is set inside the Architects Union with an interior that
makes use of green lighting, lots of plastic and black and white
photos. In the background its all ambient grooves, arty projections
and a load of Meccanno-style contraptions supporting the lights.
It looks good and so do the patrons, many of whom appear to be
businessmen trying to impress babes half their age. QOpen 10:00
- 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00, Sun 13:00 - 24:00. AGBW
Bellmer Caf C-3, ul. Warszawska 2 (Silesian Theatre
underground), tel. (+48) 607 94 20 19. This hidden gem
in the basement of the Silesian Theatre is apparently where
elegantly dressed young people go to drink beer in the after-
noon. Paying homage to local gothic/erotic surrealist Hans
Bellmer through an abundance of seriously oddball paintings,
mismatched furnishings and fabrics and red dimly-lit walls,
this isnt the nachtkabaret one might wish for, but Bellmer
Cafe still stands out as a curious cult venue, the likes of which
Katowice could use a few more of. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. G
BOB C-2, ul. Chopina 8, tel. (+48) 32 726 10 65, www.
bob.katowice.pl. A bit of a legend round these parts, BOBs
brick and wood interior of brown booths with guitars and
cymbals on the wall is reminiscent of an American rocker
bar and you almost expect everyone to be drinking out of
pitchers. Theres a good, cheap selection of pub grub on
hand - including tacos and nachos - to complement the
cheap beer and a foosball table for showdowns with the
shaved heads that favour this place. Known for its lunatic
Friday karaoke nights, weekend benders end at BOB and
youll find high-heeled casualties stumbling around the city
centre asking strangers where it is. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. PABXW
Cafe Zaszyta C-2, ul. 3 Maja 19, tel. (+48) 603 59 81
42, www.cafezaszyta.pl. Confusingly touting two names -
Club Roc and Cafe Zaszyta - this two-level establishment is your
quintessential Polish rock bar: very dark with no ventilation, a
jukebox playing Polish rock hits, a guitar on the wall, and a slightly
alternative crowd in leather or denim. Though the idea of rolling
up to a rock bar full of bikeless bikers and their busty dames in
Katowice may sound like a decidedly daunting prospect, the
young patrons plays nice and the barman is always up for a game
of chess. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:30 - 24:00. BXW
Carpe Diem C-2, Pl. Wolnoci 14, tel. (+48) 792 44 47
42, www.carpediem.pl. With continents painted on the walls
and antique motorbikes with sidecars you can drink in, Carpe
Diem seems to embrace a sense of travel. Ironically, youre
in Katowice; and while you could probably do better than this
bar in the cities where its sister venues are located (Krakw,
Tarnw), you could certainly do worse here. This candlelit
dive possesses a grotty charm and youthful, devil-may-care
Cocktail Bar | ul. Mariacka 6, Katowice | Tel. 883 995 372 | biuro.katowice@lemoniada.pl
obligatory brass instruments hanging here and there. Feel free
to pet the fat friendly dog on hand, but dont pet the maestros
piano. QOpen 13:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. PG
Goa Club C-2, ul. Sowackiego 23, tel. (+48) 512 29
59 06, www.goaclub.pl. A nice chill-out venue with several
rooms hidden away, leafy prints on the walls, an Eastern
flavour and rubbish on the television in the main bar area.
Strangely strange yet oddly normal, the bar also boasts a
free internet connection. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Fri 11:00 -
04:00, Sat 17:00 - 04:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. AEBXW
Gugalander E-3, ul. Jagielloska 17a (entrance from
ul. Krlowej Jadwigi), tel. (+48) 510 11 06 36, www.
gugalander.art.pl. A cult venue draped in darkness and
filled with wobbly tables and chairs, Gugalander is an ideal
place to meet Katowices idle artists and queens of the
scene. With a sporadic repertoire that includes club nights,
jam sessions and proper rock concerts, its a veritable
cultural centre, though the main occupations remain heavy
drinking, chain-smoking and fierce foosball matches. Its also
one of the cheapest places to drink, highlighted by 5z mad
dog shots. Your new friends are at and often behind the bar.
Make it a round, Stranger. QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri 10:00 -
02:00, Sat 12:00 - 04:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. UBXW
Hemingway M-3, ul. Raciborska 2, Gliwice, tel. (+48) 32
332 74 60, www.hemingwayclub.pl. The best bar in town
comes with maritime paraphernalia attached to the vaulted walls,
and even a bust of the man himself. Absurdities include a metal
shark head sticking out of a wall, while the club downstairs has
been known to get seriously lively. Though its hard to imagine
Hemingway overly enraptured by the mojitos served here, its most
certainly a destination to stick on your agenda. QOpen 08:00 -
24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 04:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. PABXW
Poland hit world headlines on April 10th 2010 when a
plane carrying President Lech Kaczyski, his wife and
ninety four other passengers crashed by the city of
Smolensk killing all on board. The plane clipped trees as
it came into land, before turning upside down and plung-
ing to the ground. The president and his entourage had
been flying in to mark the 70th anniversary of the Katy
Massacre, a notorious episode in which Stalin ordered
the execution of approximately 22,000 Polish officers.
For decades Russia had denied responsibility, and only
recently had steps been taken to mend bridges.
Strangely, the tragedy served to bring these two ancient
foes closer together and many Poles, at the time, were left
impressed by the sympathetic reaction of Putin & Co. As
with all high profile disasters speculation as to the cause
continues to be rife. The official Russian air authority report
into the incident laid the blame squarely on the pilots who
they claim ignored instructions to land elsewhere because
of the poor weather conditions. They also suggested the
presence and distraction of unauthorized personnel in the
cockpit as the key to the tragedy. At first this had been
thought to have been the president himself a man who
once notoriously insisted his pilots fly against their judge-
ment and land in war torn Tbilisi though black box evidence
now points to the intrusion at members of the entourage.
While Kaczyski had been widely forecast to lose heavily
in elections due for the autumn of 2010, the episode had
wider implications. Also on board were the first lady, the
head of the national bank, leading politicians and the heads
of the army, navy and air force; at a stroke Poland lost its
political, military and economic elite. Despite Kaczyskis
unpopularity the outpouring of grief was unmatched since
the death of Pope John Paul II, and churches packed out
as mourners paid their respects. In the capital thousands
lined the streets when the bodies of Mr and Mrs Kaczyski
were returned, and for the next week the streets outside
the Presidential Palace were turned into a giant shrine as
people converged to lay flowers and light candles on April
17th alone, over 100,000 mourners gathered in Pisudski
Square to listen to a state service.
But even in death Kaczyski remained a divisive and
controversial figure. The decision to bury him in Krakws
Wawel Cathedral, the ancient resting site of monarchs
and saints, split Poles down the middle, with many
protesting the decision with the slogan Warsaw for
Presidents, Krakw for Kings. Held on April 18th 2010
the funeral was marked with a service in Krakws St
Marys Cathedral, before the coffins were transported
with military escort to the crypt of Wawel.
Since then however President Kaczynskis twin brother
and his opposition party have openly accused the current
government of negligence and relations between Poland
and Russia have been strained by what the Poles see
as a total whitewash in the report of any Russian blame.
Disaster at Smolensk
www.prezydent.pl
42
NIGHTLIFE
43
NIGHTLIFE
Negresco C-2, ul. Wawelska 6, tel. (+48) 693 52 36
63, www.negresco.com.pl. One of Katowices most eclec-
tic drinking dens, this maze of strange mismatching rooms,
furniture and lighting is slightly too cool for school with its
Fashion TV and funky techno music, but still fun to explore.
Find couples drinking in dark corners in what is essentially
a dive bar with a trendy lounge attitude. Groovy, but a bit
off-kilter, causing true hipsters to head elsewhere. QOpen
08:00 - 01:00, Fri 08:00 - 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun
13:00 - 01:00. EBX
Pub Gramofon M-3, ul. rednia 12, Gliwice, tel.
(+48) 32 232 39 81, www.pubgramofon.pl. One of
Gliwices best venues, Pub Gramofon follows the Krakow-
ian model of hip hangouts with eclectic antique furnishings,
candlelight, classic wallpaper and newspaper clippings
all over the walls. Add to that a large menu of local food
and two bars over two levels, the upstairs of which is
smaller and darker with a stage for the concerts or jazzy
jam sessions. As you might expect, the bohemians have
come to roost beneath the battered lampshades and
strange chandeliers in such numbers that finding a table
might prove impossible. With so much atmosphere in one
place, you kind of wish Gramofon would spread the love
around the region a bit. QOpen 13:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
13:00 - 04:00. PAXW
Pub ciana D-5, ul. 1 Maja 46, tel. (+48) 32 314 03
34. ciana is your typical arbitrarily strange Polish pub full
of antique mirrors, musical instruments and illustrations
ripped from a Renaissance sketchbook. Priding itsel f on
its Thursday karaoke nights, the rest of the week this is
little more than a friendly locals pub playing Polish radio.
Not worth seeking out, but worth stopping in if it somehow
finds you first. QOpen 08:30 - 24:00, Sat 16:00 - 24:00,
Sun 16:00 - 23:00. XW
Red Pub C-2, ul. Sowackiego 29, tel. (+48) 32 351
01 55, www.redpub.com.pl. Long, thi n, and i ndeed
very red, this marvellous little boozer at the bottom of a
wobbly flight of steps serves a range of cold beers to a
friendly bunch of mostly 20-something local men sat in a
line at the bar. Other attractions include what the men on
the barstools are looking at and several fish tanks sunk
into the walls. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 -
01:00. PXW
Sky Bar C- 3, ul. Uniwersytecka 13 (Qubus Hotel
Prestige), tel. (+48) 32 601 01 00, www.qubushotel.
com. A display of model aeroplanes, cocktails galore and
impressive views of the city from the 27th floor of the Altus
Centre mark this interesting adventure inside the Qubus
Prestige hotel out as one worth further investigation. Though
entry is free on weekends between 16:00 and 18:00, note
that theres generally a 10z fee for non-hotel guests. QOpen
18:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 16:00 - 02:00. PAW
Spencer Pub D-3, ul. Wojewdzka 21, tel. (+48) 32
251 54 73, www.spencerpub.com.pl. A stylish English
pub with smart wood furnishings, classic black and whites
and plenty of green, Spencer is an ideal place to loosen
the tie after a grueling week of powerpoint presentations,
whiteboard marker fumes and breathmints. Making the
decision easier is the amiable English-speaking staff, solid
line of pub grub like steaks and fish and chips, one of the
best selections of whiskey in town, and the black gold com-
monly referred to as Guinness on draught. Weekends see
live bands entertaining a full house, so get there early to
get a seat. QOpen 12:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 01:00.
PAGW
ruba i Przyjaciele (Screws and Friends) D-3, ul.
Mariacka 16, tel. (+48) 504 06 79 03. Katowices official
dive bar seems to be one of the last sauce-slingers standing
on what was once a street full of sleaze and spirits. Three
basic brick rooms with chairs on the ceiling, shot glasses and
ashtrays glued upside down above the bar, a foosball table
and small garden out back, this rocker bar of friends throwing
their hair to Aerosmith, Korn and Polish punk bands is a great
place to meet people you wont remember in the morning.
QOpen 10:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 03:00. EGBW
Stary Port I-2, ul. Rynek 13 (entrance from parking
lot), Chorzw, tel. (+48) 32 760 67 67, www.staryport.
com.pl. Seems the further one gets from the sea, the more
passionately one pines for it, which might explain this ship-
wrecked sailor bar in landlocked, industrial Chorzw. Not quite
as salty as its sister bar in Krakw, Stary Port Chorzw is still
a welcoming walk off the plank into good company, cheap
beer and shanty singalongs. Decked with old nautical maps,
fishing nets, lanterns and torn sails, this ship-in-a-bottle is
great for getting stuck in on a Friday night when the stage
gets rummy with rogues and rovers. QOpen 15:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 16:00 - 02:00. AUXW
Warka Piwiarnia M-3, ul. rednia 10, Gliwice, tel. (+48)
32 231 00 24, www.warkagliwice.pl. A large bar owned
by the Warka brewery, theres a certain comfort to be had
from this Polish take on an English sports pub full of exposed
bricks, wooden booths, beer and sports signage and several
TVs. How long before it turns to discomfort may depend on
your ability to resist the gratuitous quantities of beer available
here by the pitcher or even the metre (as measured out in pints
for 60z). The guaranteed hangover begs the question of how
much you like the taste of Warka in the first place. QOpen
16:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 02:00. PAXW
Wcieky Pies (Mad Dog) C-2, ul. Sowackiego 16,
tel. (+48) 601 59 91 96, www.wscieklypies-pub.pl. Full
of bare bricks and dangling chains, drawings of blood-drinking
rottweilers and other canines too menacing to be kitsch, its
a pretty docile atmosphere for a place desperate to bare its
teeth. The streetside terrace never seems to be open and
its mostly couples drinking the cheap beer in the basement
bar interior which has absolutely no romantic value, leaving
one to wonder whos going to drink all those 6z mad dog
shots. Drop the leash, please. QOpen 13:00 - 23:00, Fri,
Sat 13:00 - 01:00. BXW
WunderBAR D-3, ul. Plebiscytowa 2, tel. (+48) 32
781 76 90, www.wunderbar.pl. German restaurant by
day, lively bar by night. Trust the Paulaner and Warsteiner
lager to get your night rolling, and dont be shy in checking
out their food menu either - feast-sized helpings of pigs and
cows. Clink your tankards inside a homey interior featuring
the obligatory rustic keepsakes and antique trappings.
QOpen 13:00 - 24:00. ABX
Za Drzwiami (Behind The Door) D-3, ul. Dworcowa
13, tel. (+48) 510 33 78 23, www.zadzwiami.com. One of
Katowices most interesting and relaxing escapes, this groovy
little L-shaped bar is favoured by a young, educated crowd and
makes for a fine place to knock a few back in the company of
friends. The somnambulant bartender, predilection towards
blues music, display of old Polish postcards and other ephem-
era all conspire to give Za Drzwiami legitimate character. The
actual bar itself is up some wooden stairs and capable of
accommodating two small people standing side by side, while
a wall of windows provides a surprisingly inoffensive view of
Dworcowa street. Recommended. QOpen 16:00 - 24:00, Fri,
Sat 17:00 - 03:00, Sun 18:00 - 24:00. EBX
After holding out to be one of the few remaining EU
countries with no or very few prohibitions on smoking, a
new law brought in on the 15th November 2010 aimed to
limit the activities of smokers in public places.
Smoking is now completely banned on public transport in-
cluding taxis, trains, company cars, public transport stops,
childrens playgrounds, schools, universities, workplaces,
sports arenas and other places where the public gather.
Owners are obliged to clearly place a clear and visible No
Smoking sign and anyone caught smoking by either the
police or local city guard is subject to a 500zl fine.
There are, however, exceptions. It is possible to smoke
in some bars, clubs, restaurants and other public places.
The law states that there can be a SEPARATE ROOM
created for smokers as long as it is properly ventilated
and closed off from the other public areas (originally this
was only going to be permitted in premises over 100m2,
but that make the final version of the law). As many
places listed in this guide are simply too small to allow
for a separate room, this has automatically made them
subject to the ban. To help you to find or avoid places
which will continue to allow smoking on the premises we
have used the following symbols throughout the guide
G This place has a complete ban on smoking on the
premises
X This place has a smoking section on the premises
Having now had some time to gauge reaction it appears
that owners have followed one of three courses of action.
Firstly they have through choice or necessity obeyed the
law and the whole premises are now non-smoking. A
second group, generally those with bigger premises, have
exercised their right to build a smoking room. The third
group have examined the wording of the law and then driven
an articulated lorry through the holes left by incompetent
legislators. We have seen examples of entire bars allowing
smoking by making the vast majority of the place smoking
with a small area in the front, back or downstairs, set aside
for non-smokers. We have even seen an example of two
restaurants joining together and claiming the smoking area
is in one restaurant while the non-smoking area is in the one
next door. The latest twist is some bars openly flouting the
law by allowing smoking due to the lack of enforcement. A
regular in one bar told us that everyone has agreed to be
fined making it impossible for the owner to be punished and
difficult for the city police to enforce. The looseness of the
wording of the new law and the apparent inability or will to
police it suggest that while it will certainly reduce smoking
in many public places, it will still allow it to continue in a lot
of others. Choose carefully.
Smoking
Iglo Kawiarenka M-3, ul. Rynek 18, Gliwice, tel.
(+48) 32 231 42 36, www.gwarek.gliwice.pl. A Gliwice
landmark, its hard to miss this domed beer garden squat-
ting squarely on the Rynek year round. Owned by the same
people as the legendary Gwarek nightclub, aside from the
subpar service the two have almost nothing in common: Iglo
is a thoroughly relaxing oasis of wicker furnishings and palm
trees, ideal for a beer with friends any time. QOpen 09:00 -
24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00. AGB
Kredens (The Cupboard) D-4, ul. w. Jacka 9, tel.
(+48) 32 785 91 63, www.kredens-pub.com.pl. Stuffed
with broken-spined books, old luggage, dusty sewing ma-
chines and springy sofas, Kredens dishevelled bohemian
spirit wouldnt be out of place in jazzy Krakw, where antique
furnishings, candlelight and newsprint collages have become
par for the course. In Katowice it stands out as one of the
most interesting places in town, and one of the few that you
might actually want to return to. With a menu of low budget
eats from pierogi to pizza and shockingly cheap Murphys on
draft, you may not have any reason to leave.QOpen 08:00
- 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 02:00. Also at M-3, ul. rednia 5,
Gliwice, tel. (+48) 32 335 40 20. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 02:00. AXW
Kultowa D-2, Plac Miarki 6, tel. (+48) 32 204 27 68,
www.kultowa.pl. This brick beer cellar pays tribute to
legendary Polish anti-establishment rockers Kult, displaying
the obsession through a surplus of photos, clippings, post-
ers and lyrics stenciled all over the walls. With regular live
concerts by Polish rock and punk acts, after Gugalander and
Kato (and sometimes ruba) its as close to a local alterna-
tive scene as youll likely find in Katowice. The playlist isnt
exclusive to Kult or other Polish acts, with regular Wednesday
tribute/theme nights featuring the likes of Pearl Jam, Hendrix
and the Ramones in weeks past. Local live acts perform
Thursdays and every other Sunday (club is closed Sundays
except for concerts), but legends are made on the weekends
during rockin dance parties in the unique Rockoteka which
absurdly stretch well into morning. The summer garden
opens at 12:00 until September so when the weather aligns
you can fully enjoy the outdoor seating across the street in
Plac Miarki. Q Open 17:00 - 02:00, Sat 17:00 - 07:00. Closed
Sun. From September open 14:00 - 02:00, 17:00 - 07:00.
Closed Sun. AEBXW
London Pub J-3, ul. Katowicka 58, Chorzw, tel. (+48)
32 771 31 00. A traditional British policeman complete with
a pointy hat guards the door of this small bar celebrating
the sights and sensations of Old Blightys smokey capital.
Cheeky barmaids pour Guinness and other drinks for a
friendly local crowd in a sea of miniature telephone boxes,
paintings of the Houses of Parliament, red double-decker
buses and other Londonesque detritus. Recommended.
QOpen 16:00 - 02:00. PAUGW
Longman Club C-1, ul. Gliwicka 10, tel. (+48) 32
253 78 62, www.longman.net.pl. Katowices likeable
London-theme pub, Longman has all the requisite trappings,
from those bloody red telephone boxes to the double-decker
bus, plus that well-deserved pint of Guinness youve been
working towards since you made that first fateful step into
the local train station. Theres even a menu of proper local
pub grub if drinking your dinner is ill-adviced (not by us, mind
you). Weekends see Longman come to life with scores of
students descending to take advantage of the cheap alcohol
and quite often each other; keep an eye out for occassional
theme parties. Q Open 13:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 02:00.
Closed Sun. From September open 11:00 - 01:00, Fri 11:00 -
04:00, Sat 14:00 - 04:00, Sun 17:00 - 24:00. PAEXW
44
NIGHTLIFE
45
NIGHTLIFE
that seem to have borrowed their dispositions from the
catwalk, Czekolada backs it up with expertly made choco-
late drinks and a menu containing a range of steaks. Dark
patterned walls and no overhead lighting create an intimate
atmosphere, offset by street-side wall-length windows. It
has to be said though that it is pretty impressive. QOpen
13:00 - 05:00, Mon, Sun 13:00 - 23:00, Tue 13:00 - 01:00,
Wed, Thu 13:00 - 02:00. PAUEBXW
Flow C-2, ul. 3 Maja 23/3, tel. (+48) 696 07 67 04,
www.flowclub.pl. Tucked into the same courtyard as City
Pub, dodge the queues of the former and duck into this
hipster haven where creative DJs command the dancefloor
of lithe, blithe, beautiful creatures through the power of funk,
soul and old school hip-hop (or what they regrettably refer
to as black music in these parts) on weekends. Tied and
vested bar staff contribute a bit of class to what is a refresh-
ingly casual, fun atmosphere across two rooms bisected by
a hallway. This mainstay will close for renovation in July and
reopen for Fridays and Saturday in September, and hopes
to ramp up to Wednesday-Saturday in October. Q From
September open Fri, Sat only 20:00 - 05:00, will hopefully
add Wed and Thurs in October. PAXW
Genesis Music & Dance Club C-2, ul. Matejki 3, tel.
(+48) 602 71 71 22, www.klubgenesis.pl. The electric-
ity bill here surely contains multiple zeros. An outrageous
multi-coloured assault on the senses courtesy of non-stop
strobing lights, glowing glass blocks and neon strips explains
the increasing number of nymphs getting epileptic on the
dancefloor as the night goes on, and theres really no choice
but to get armpit deep in the action. The music policy is far
from cutting edge, but a night in Genesis rarely disappoints
on the fun factor and this remains one of the citys silliest
clubs. N.B. The club refuse to update their info with us but
it was business as usual when we last visited. Q Open Fri,
Sat only 21:00 - 05:00. PAW
Gwarek M-3, ul. Rynek 18, Gliwice, tel. (+48) 32 231
42 36, www.gwarek.gliwice.pl. Spot on the Rynek, this
is probably the most notorious club in Gliwice. Seems to
be living on reputation alone however, as after receiving a
proper grilling by ten sniggering doorstaffers - weekdays
and Sun 3z, Fri 10z, Sat 15z and 2z obligatory cloakroom
- we proceeded inside to find an enormous and hauntingly
empty club; in fact it was a full ten minutes before someone
from the door finally came and poured us a 4z beer. Abso-
lutely massive with lots of black lights, chrome piping and
extraterrestrial textures, there are plenty of nookie nooks
amongst the red booths and the dancefloor is impressively
huge, but overall the dated design is hardly deserving of an
award. As such, youd have to judge it on the merits of the
clientele, who we were stood up by at 22:00 on a weeknight.
Well assume something goes down here on the right night,
but given the circumstances its hard to know if Gwarek is a
proper club or a practical joke. QOpen 21:00 - 03:00, Thu,
Fri, Sat 21:00 - 06:00. PAEBXW
Inqbator D-3, ul. Dworcowa 2, tel. (+48) 666 25 22
84, www.inq.pl. Hit them on a Saturday and youll struggle
to find a better venue in town for electro sounds. As such
its a highly charged crowd youll find staring into space with
cartoon smiles while repetitive beats shoot fireworks into
what is left of their brain. The walls quite literally drip with
sweat, while the murky interiors look like theyve been thrown
together as an afterthought by a stoned student with time
on his hands. Completely excellent. On quieter days find
arthouse classics getting played while a more sober crowd
plan for the weekend ahead. QOpen Fri, Sat only 16:00 -
06:00. AEXW
Klubokawiarnia PRL N-1, ul. Dubois 22, Gliwice, tel.
(+48) 32 235 21 74, www.prl.net.pl. A modern commie-
themed bar complete with busts of Lenin, a car hanging from
the ceiling, and black and white photographs depicting May
Day parades. Its a cracking night alright, not least when the
disco balls start spinning and the dance floor packs out;
youll find all sorts of noise coming from the DJ den, not least
classic Polish anthems dating from the dark days. QOpen
17:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Sun. PAGW
Klub Pomaracza C-2, ul. Matejki 3, tel. (+48) 513
60 03 00, www.klubpomarancza.pl. Continuing the
Katowice trend of mistaking a club for an airport, this mega-
fun factory may have the most intimidating security weve
seen. But if club hoppers can get past the metal detector,
the cover-charge turnstile and jackbooted guards redirecting
the herd to the mandatory coat check, their senses will be
overwhelmed. A massive dance floor beset with all manner of
synchronized lighting effects greets guests. Dancers wiggle
away on a central mini stage, lovely ladies watch from the
balcony above and couples cuddle in the plush booths. At the
top, tucked inside a glass-enclosure is the RNB Klub, home
to another DJ a second bar and deafening bass amps. A
third DJ spins in the Tropicana Room somewhere a half-level
below. Enough entertainment to justify the effort at the gate.
QOpen 20:00 - 06:00, Thu, Sun 20:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon,
Tue. PAUXW
Kwadraty ul. Franciszkaska 10 (Ligota-Panewniki),
tel. (+48) 501 61 62 60, www.kwadraty.pl. An Erasmus
utopia of cheap drinks and scream-singing students. If youre
over 21 and dont have a university ID you may feel out of
place here, but students and young backpackers will find a
decent, if dated, club with pop-inspired dance music and a
large dance floor. Best find some friends and split a cab or
find another ride as its 6 kilometres from the centre in a
building on the economic university campus. Look for the
100% Student Parties on Thursdays and Fridays while
Saturdays are Ladies night. Foreigners can get in for 5 zloty
and a zloty for coat check. Because its a student-centered
establishment Kwadraty closes for the summer, reopening
in September when classes begin again. Q Open from
September Thu-Sat 20:00 - 04:00. PAXW
Lemoniada D-3, ul. Mariacka 4, tel. (+48) 883 99
53 72, www.lemoniada.pl. The cult of Lemoniada has
captured Katos party crowd. After conquering Wrocaw
and Warsaw, the club has newfound flocks willing to wait 90
minutes in a queue stretching onto the Mariacka promenade.
Professional security patiently weeds out the impatient
and the underdressed even as VIP-card members and the
moneyed whos who float up the stairs and through the glass
door with ease. Inside, the cellar-style labyrinth is pimped out
with bright, trance-inducing colours, the dance floor is packed
wall to wall and a team of bar staff struggles to understand
shouted orders. Velvet curtains screen off privately reserved
rooms tucked into nooks and corners all around. A passage
allows access to the Fashion TV lounge. Bring loads of cash
and your A-game. QOpen 21:00 - 05:00, Wed 21:00 - 03:00,
Thu 21:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. Not open every
Wednesday; usually only two Wednesdays a month PAX
Maspalomas B-3, ul. Chorzowska 7b, tel. (+48) 793
05 60 66, www.clubmaspalomas.pl. A neighbourhood
pub/club, albeit with a bevy of widescreen TVs playing music
videos by day and a host of resident DJs keeping watch by
weekend night. Red vinyl sofas and small tables are a bit
80s but one things for sure, the crowd here sure likes its
smokes. Downstairs, the small restaurant could be pleasant
enough for a quiet date though service seems to be split be-
Clubs
2B3 E-3, Pl. Sejmu lskiego 2 (entrance from ul.
Henryka Sienkiewicza 28), tel. (+48) 32 785 78 77,
www.2b3.com.pl. 2B3 has undergone a recent style
renovation, and in Poland this often means the prices just
went up a little, the clientele got a bit older (and more pre-
tentious) and the face-control just got ratcheted up another
notch. Hopefully 2B3 will avoid some of those pitfalls. The
new design is sharp and suits the vibe quite well, especially if
you are a huge fan of Absolut vodka. Theyve added a second
bar, and purportedly will have a whole new menu sometime in
July. 2B3 has definitely graduated from student club to yuppie
abode, and remains a popular hot-spot for Katowice nightlife.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Fri 12:00 - 04:00, Sat 16:00 - 04:00,
Sun 16:00 - 24:00. PAGBW
50x50 E-3, Pl. Sejmu lskiego 2, tel. (+48) 32 785
70 54, www.jazzclub.pl. Follow a few misnomers (enter
via the Jazz Club sign, descend the stairs marked for Elektro)
and a rainbow of stripes through a deliberately disorienting
mirrored corridor to find yourself in 50x50 - a minimal modern
hipster hangout where you might hear the latest from Gorillaz
or Vampire Weekend while making friends with the barmaid
and perusing a menu of eats including pizza, pasta, pierogi,
naleniki (crepes) and steak. With Hipnoza upstairs, the two
combine to make Silesian Parliament Square one of the bet-
ter spots on the citys nightlife map. QOpen 14:00 - 24:00,
Fri 14:00 - 02:00, Sat 16:00 - 02:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00.
Closed Mon. PAUXW
Caf Europa C-2, ul. Mickiewicza 8, tel. (+48) 32 259
80 91. A monstrous ballroom with a large balcony area, this
is yet another age-defying dance club for those old-fashioned
folks who took dance lessons during the previous regime and
still like to cut a rug on a Saturday night. Timeless in every
way - from the tacky decor and disco balls that ruin what
whould otherwise be a genuinely handsome interior, to the
obligatory coat-check and determinedly humourless service
- Europa gives you the opportunity to experience what its
like to attend a Polish wedding almost every evening. Take a
break from twirling Babcia Halinka to the disco polo music in
order to neck a few vodka shots and enjoy the stupendously
cheap, stodgy and dependable dinner sets including an en-
tire page of variations on the pork chop. Complete cultural
immersion for the courageous. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Mon
10:00 - 20:00, Fri 10:00 - 04:00, Sat 20:00 - 05:00, Sun
12:00 - 22:00. PAUG
Cotton Club C-2, ul. Matejki 2, tel. (+48) 664 14 55
73, www.cotton-club.com.pl. The Cotton Club has been
completely renovated into what can only be described as a
modern speak-easy, decked out as an homage to American
gangsterism. Never mind the anachronisms and Italian/
American/Caribbean confusion, or perhaps the politically
incorrect tribute to Italian-American organized crime; the
new set up still sports the industrial edgy basement vibe and
a plethora of hidden areas which could be considered VIP
sections or hideaways for the next unexpected Prohibition
raid. The club is a great follow-up to some earlier imbibing
next door at Carpe Diem, and there is ample room and
music for dancing and grooving late into the night. QOpen
17:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun.
PABXW
Czekolada H-1, ul. Dworcowa 6, Chorzw, tel. (+48)
32 771 84 46, www.klubczekolada.pl. Absolutely the
last thing youd expect to find in Chorzw, its easy to be
sceptical of a place that tries as hard as Czekolada. A look-
at-me-please lounge featuring Fashion TV and a barstaff
In the course of your travels around Katowice you might
find yourself passing the Huta Baildon Steelworks. Doesnt
sound very Polish, right? Right. Theyre actually named in
honour of John Baildon, a Scottish lad born in 1772 who
would bizarrely go on to play a dramatic part in the industrial
development of Upper Silesia. The son of a distinguished
mining engineer, he had a chance meeting with Fryderyk von
Reden - the director of the High Mining Office in Wrocaw,
which led to an invitation to visit his acquaintance in Silesia.
In spite of his tender years he chose to go for it, and arrived
in Tarnowskie Gry aged 21. His knowledge of industrial
technology had obviously made an impression and he was
put to work designing the first large coke oven in mainland
Europe. It opened three years later and its success opened
the door to numerous other commissions. Marriage and
seven children followed, and he chose to settle in Upper
Silesia, becoming the brains behind countless projects; his
factory manufactured the iron bridge in aany, the oldest of
its kind in Europe, while a suspension bridge he designed,
completed in 1827, can still be found standing in Ozimek.
He worked until his death in 1846, and today lies interred
in a neo-gothic chapel cast from iron in Gliwices cemetery.
On to Hans Bellmer (1902-1975). Born in Katowice
Bellmers name is known in art circles for his utterly bonkers
surrealist artwork and photography. Apparently frustrated
by the untouchable beauty of a female cousin, as well as
the delivery of an old box of toys, Bellmer channelled his
artistic angst into what was to become his life obsession;
creating dolls of teenage girls before twisting and contort-
ing them into grotesque and explicit poses. His work was
declared degenerate by the Nazis, and he fled to France
where he flourished under the encouragement of other
such weirdoes like Andre Breton. A committed anti-fascist
he joined the resistance when France was invaded and put
his artistic talents to use forging passports and documents.
His activities were soon curtailed when the Nazis swooped
on the art world, and he lived out the rest of the war in Camp
des Milles internment prison. Following the end of the war
he gave up his doll projects, choosing instead to dedicate
his time to explicit drawings and photographs. His marriage
to German author and painter Unica Zurn came crashing to
an end when she chucked herself out of a window in 1970,
and he died five years later.
Katowices educational institutions have also spawned
their share of names, with alumni including Wojciech
Kilar. Born in 1932 Kilar played a large role in the 60s
Polish avant-garde, though it is for his film scores he will
best be remembered for. Having penned music to Pol-
ish classics like Rejs he found himself collaborating on
numerous Roman Polaski films, including Ninth Gate,
The Truman Show and The Pianist.
Then theres Henryk Grecki, born in 1933 in Czernica.
In 1958 Katowices Silesian State Philharmonic staged
a concert of his works, and his twisted classical music
became a favourite with Polands nascent surrealist
movement. Ten years later he was appointed as a lec-
turer in Katowices music school, though resigned from
his post in 1979 after the local government refused to
host Pope John Paul II on his visit. Grecki was best
known for his pure minimalist compositions, and his
Symphony Number 3 reached the top of British clas-
sical charts in 1992. He passed away in Katowice on
November 12th 2010.
Local Heroes
46
NIGHTLIFE
47
NIGHTLIFE
over the bill when we dropped in. The fact that its open late
should make you happy that everyone else has a place to
go. Q Open 24 hrs. AEXW
Sofa Club C-1, ul. Sdowa 9, tel. (+48) 602 71 71
22, www.klubgenesis.pl. This club/lounge connected to
Genesis employs a strict face- and especially shoe-check,
so take a pencil-eraser to your once-white sneaks before you
face those humourless bouncers. Next comes the obliga-
tory coat-check before entering the promise of the posh,
slightly pulsating pink and gold interior prominently displaying
Fashion TV above dark leather sofas and booths. Formerly a
gay bar, Sofa has a gay-friendly reputation, but regardless,
it seems all the action is in Genesis, which you can weave
your way to through a second security rank and stand a
better chance of being rubbed the right way. Failing to be a
rival, Sofa might provide a nice escape from the madness of
Genesis if one were able to talk over the table-rattling techno
music, but alas. N.B. The club refuses to update its informa-
tion with us but it was business as usual when we visited.
QOpen 15:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 04:00. Fridays 10z
for lads; Saturdays 15z for lads, 10z for ladies. PAW
NEW
Trendy Club C-2, ul. Opolska 8, tel. (+48) 604 87 36 39,
www.trendyclub.pl. Trendy Club has hit the Katowice scene
with black-light abandon. Youll be struck by the juxtaposition
of modern cocktails and decor with what seems like a late
1980s homage to what we could imagine it would be like to
hit an after-party at Princes house. The first-floor lounge area
has a cool cosmic aquarium feel and the dance floor upstairs
is like a Caribbean oasis in Silesia. They join the ever-growing
Zumba craze on Wednesdays, and the tried-and-true Salsa
nights on Thursdays. On weekends you can expect typical DJ
dance-mixes, African drums, and even a few live singers. And
with a kitchen open until 4am, you wont need to make a food
run in the middle of your night out. QOpen 20:00 - 24:00, Thu
20:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 03:00. PAEXW
rdo (Spring) C-1, ul. Sobieskiego 27, tel. (+48) 32
781 14 41, www.klubzrodlo.pl. rdos claim to be one of
the loudest and most exciting places to go on the weekend
has yet to be substantiated by us, and this dark and scruffy
dive bar seems better suited to relaxing and throwing a few
back with your friends before trying your luck on the pool
table. The stage is shared between live bands and the DJs
that occasionally drop in to woo the mostly student crowd,
though theres no guarantee to find anything happening here,
as has repeatedly been our experience. QOpen 13:00 -
24:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 02:00, Sun 15:00 - 24:00. AEBX
Jazz Clubs
4Art Klub Muzyczny ul. Wieczorka Jzefa 22, Gliwice
(rdmiecie), tel. (+48) 32 337 54 70, www.4artgliwice.
pl. Visually 4Art is about as stimulating as a snail race, so its
something of a surprise that this transpires to be one of the
best nights out in town. This is where the local beatniks come
to do their drinking, their journey to enlightenment made all
the easier by fantastic live jazz performances - some of the
biggest names in Polish jazz have graced the stage here, so
its well worth checking out whats in store in advance. QOpen
15:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 15:00 - 02:00. PAUEBXW
tween the bar and the restaurant during the day. Fortunately,
Maspalomas seems a bit more accepting then the upscale
clubs popping up around town with decent mixed drink prices
and a laid back dress code. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 04:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00. PAUBXW
Mega Club B-1, ul. elazna 9, tel. (+48) 605 21 89
30, www.megaclub.pl. Established in 1993 this venue is
a dinosaur in clubbing years, though still manages to stand
out as the Big Boss in terms of Katowice club options. Let
the list of people who have performed here speak for itself,
with cult names like Smolik, Peja, New Model Army and The
Legendary Pink Dots all having taken the stage at one point
or another. This place is vast, and though some may accuse
the interiors of lacking imagination the parties that go off here
are the stuff of legend. Years of experience have contributed
to a smoothly run operation, with everything in place from a
bite-yer-ears sound system to a seriously impressive light-
ing system. Check out their Hot Friday evenings, where DJs
spin funk, rnb and dance hits to a crowd that most certainly
wont be waking up early the following day. Q Opening hours
depend on events. AUEBXW
NEW
Milk D-4, ul. Damrota 6, www.milkclub.pl. The latest
affiliate to the successful Carpe Diem bar franchise, Milk
has a similar feel to her predecessor, tucked in a gateway
in a renovated building in the shadow of St. Marys church.
Featuring a subterranean lounge area and dance-floor,
the place has found its niche in this concentrated nightlife
area and is new enough to still have that feel of novelty and
shine while also having the momentum and popularity of an
established spot.QOpen 12:00 - 04:00. X
Oko Miasta (Eye On the Rocks) B-3, Rondo gen.
Zitka 1, tel. (+48) 698 65 57 96, www.okomiasta.pl.
Playing lady of the night to the good little housewife act it puts
on when operating as a restaurant by day, Eye On the Rocks
ditches the apron in the evenings with DJ sets and occassional
live concerts on weekends. Above the Rondo Sztuki Gallery
and overlooking a major tram stop, this modern venue is all ex-
posed silver beams and ductwork, with a superb little balcony
in the front and a terrace out back. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00, Fri
09:00 - 05:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 24:00. PAUEGBW
Poziom 3 (Level 3) D-5, ul. 1 Maja 33, tel. (+48) 32 782
34 90, www.poziom3.pl. You dont have to spend a bucket of
coins to create a successful club and Poziom 3 is the evidence.
You wont find the interior design winning any gongs, the owners
here have decided brick walls and a couple of photos will suffice.
Good job too, youll find your eyes have more than enough to
focus on once this place starts packing out. Gorgeous creatures
aplenty here, as well as a healthy smattering of ape-like animals
to court them. Depending on your luck youll find anything from
karaoke to chart tunes. QOpen 17:00 - 01:00 Tue, Thu, Fri
17:00 - 04:00, Sat 17:00 - 05:00. From mid September hours
change to 09:30 - 04:00, Mon, Wed 09:30 - 01:00, Sat 17:00
- 05:00, Sun 17:00 - 01:00. PAGBW
Selekcja C-2, ul. Sowackiego 22, tel. (+48) 32 203
35 37, www.selekcja22.pl. Tucked around the corner
from the atrocious train station, this thin bar and downstairs
club would appear to be too cramped with tables to offer
room to dance during the regular theme nights it organises.
DJs apparently spin everything from old school (make that
skool rather) hip-hop to rock and blues on various nights
in the narrow brick cellar where bright red lights illuminate a
tiny dancefloor. Upstairs its nothing special with a few gaudy
gold-framed TVs playing the cheesy video hits of the 70s-
90s while some clients tried to get tough with the barstaff
Follow POLANDIYP on
Born in Zagrze, an outl ying district of Sosnowiec,
Edward Gierek (1913 2001) is best remembered as
the man who took Poland to the brink of bankruptcy
with his hal f-mad economic policies. His father died in a
mining accident when Gierek was aged four, and soon
after his mother hitched up with a new fella and made
the decision to up sticks and move the brood to France.
By the age of 17 he was a card carrying member of
the French commie party, and it wasnt long before
his subversive activities had come to the attention of
the authorities; regarded as a political pest he was
deported back to Poland. Following stints in the Pol-
ish national service, the mines of Belgium and cloudy
wartime action with a unit of Polish guerillas, Giereks
story picks up in 1948 when he and his wi fe moved
back to Katowice after the war, no doubt pleased as
punch that the country was now communist controlled.
It didnt take long for Gierek to rise through the ranks,
and in 1957 he was appointed as the regional head
of the Communist party. He set about his task with
ideological zeal, approving grandiose projects like the
Spodek and Park of Culture and Recreation. He
also remained true to his mining roots, and although
conditions for Silesias miners remained brutal, under
Gierek these modern day Gollums at least enjoyed the
benefit of cheaper cars and housing. Championed as a
man of the people Gierek enjoyed considerable public
support, and following the violent riots of December
1970 that forced Wadysaw Gomuka to resign his
post as Polish First Secretary, the dynamic Gierek
was the perfect candidate his promises of economic
and social reform being just what the masses wanted
to hear. After being elected he forged close links with
the West, and propped up by huge foreign loans set
about modernizing industry and bringing the country
out of the dark ages. His strategy was an immediate
success, and saw him hailed as an economic master-
mind by workers across the country. But the oil crash
of 1973 sent shockwaves throughout the globe, and by
1976 Poles were once more feeling the pinch. Gierek
had borrowed billions, and his creditors wanted the
money back the cost was passed on to the people
by ways of further price increases, imports were cut
dramatically and everything which could be exported
was, l eading to empty shel ves and l onger queues
than ever before; all this while Gierek and his cronies
continued to enjoy a high li fe of luxury holidays and a
favourite pastime of hunting. By 1980 the people had
had enough, and inspired by Lech Wasas Solidarity
movement strikes and protests ripped through the
country. Poland was in crisis, and Gierek was forced
to abdicate his position. The hardline regime that fol-
lowed him, led by General Jaruzelski, pinned Polands
mounting economic and social crisis on him, and he
was forced to resign his party membership before
being locked away for a year. Choosing a quiet li fe
after his ignominious exit from politics Gierek lived
out the rest of his li fe in the southern town of Ustro,
and passed away in 2001 following a battle against
a lung infection. The mark he left was immense, but
while the rest of Poland found itsel f paying off the
debts he racked up for years, the people of Katowice
remember him more fondly as the creator of some of
the regions most recognisable cultural attractions,
and the sweet stretch of highway known affectionately
to this day as the Gierkwka.
Gierek
I f you ve been fol l owi ng ever y word of thi s nat t y
l i t t l e pamphl et you l l need no i nt r oduct i on to
Edward Gi erek. Hes the Communi st- era l eader
who l ed Pol and to fi nanci al rui n l i ke a student
gi f ted a bl ank chequebook thi s nut ter sent the
nati on i nto the abyss wi th hi s bananas at ti tude
to spendi ng. Pol ands sti l l payi ng the pri ce for hi s
esti mated US$40 bi l l i on spree, and to be frank
the nati ves have next to nothi ng to show for i t
apar t from a set of abandoned factori es l ong
si nce overrun by j unki es, vandal s and vermi n. But
thats not somethi ng that appl i es to the nati ves
of Katowi ce and surrounds. Born and set tl ed i n
thi s regi on Gi erek hel d i t cl ose to hi s hear t, so
much so that he spent much of hi s ti me as Com-
muni st Par t y Secretar y i n the area. Thi s was i n
the days before presi denti al j ets and uber-rapi d
hel i copters, so to ensure he was never l ate for hi s
commi tments and appoi ntments i n Warsaw the
guy commi ssi oned pl ans to bui l d what i s sti l l one
of the fi nest roads i n Pol and. Work ki cked of f i n
1972, and on October 8, 1976, the hi ghway was
of fi ci al l y opened by the man hi msel f. Bui l t i n fi ve
par ts by sol di ers the route runs i n secti ons from
Warsaw al l the way to Katowi ce wi th l ater exten-
si ons bui l t to run through Tychy, Bi el sko Bi al o
and hi s retreat i n Ustron. I t remai ns i n spl endi d
shape today, and youl l fi nd the fearl ess dri vers
who take to the streets of Pol and sti l l referri ng
to i t as the Gi erkwka.
Gierkwka
Hipnoza Jazz Club E-3, Pl. Sejmu lskiego 2, tel.
(+48) 32 785 71 30, www.jazzclub.pl. This intimate,
laid-back concert venue books some of the citys best
international gigs, the reputation and subsequent turnout
for which often exceeds the size of the space. Packed
with interesting characters sitting on truly comfortable
couches and lazyboys beneath foil -wrapped ducts and
rotating psychedelic spirals on the walls, theres also a
decent food menu and DJs on Friday and Saturday (and
sometimes Wednesdays) from 19:00 when the stage is
empty. Recommended. QOpen 10:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun
12:00 - 02:00. PAUXW
Ilujza Jazz Club ul. Gdaska 22, Zabrze (Stare
Zabrze), tel. (+48) 32 273 07 67. Drink away an after-
noon in their fantastic seasonal garden or head indoors
to simple crimson interiors decorated with splashes of
brickwork. Musical instruments hang from the walls, a
saxophone has been shaped into a beer tap and pics
of jazz gods keep a watchful eye on the patrons. Not the
most inspiring of venues but well worth consideration,
particularl y on occassions when they have li ve music.
QOpen 14:00 - 24:00. PAEGBW
lski Jazz Club M- 3, Rynek 18 (entrance from
Pl. Inwalidw Wojennych 1), Gliwice, tel. (+48)
503 80 65 35, www. sj c. pl . Much l i ke 4Ar t t he
l ski e Jazz Cl ub l ooks l i ke i ts had ten zoty spent on
i t. Thats surel y because the bul k of the budget has
gone on booki ng some of the top names i n Pol i sh j azz,
a fact that frequentl y l eads to momentous ni ghts. I n
busi ness si nce 1956 thi s pl ace has seen i t al l, and the
concer ts here are the stuf f of l egend. Q Open duri ng
concer ts onl y. EG
48
NIGHTLIFE
Gl i wi ce
ul. Ceglarska 35
www.queensnightclub.com
Open: 18:00 - 05:00
tel. 032/ 305 30 20
American Bar Erotic Show Dance Go-Go Dance
We invite you to Queens nightclub.
Discretion is of our highest concern, as immediately
evidenced by our parking lot.
The interior design of the rooms and equipment
complement each other to create an intimate, erotic
atmosphere.
We dedicate the greatest care to the cleanliness of
the club.
Your satisfaction is guaranteed.
Exclusives Ambiente
Sie werden im Nachtclub Queens erwartet.
Diskretion ist unser hchstes Gut. Schon der
Abstellplatz fr Ihren Wagen zeigt Ihnen dies.
In den Innenrumen unseres Clubs bieten wir Ihnen
den Luxus fhrender Unterhaltungsbetriebe.
Dies alles ist die Garantie Ihrer Zufriedenhiet.
Zapraszamy do klubu nocnego Queens w Gliwicach.
Niepowtarzalnie najlepszy klub w kraju.
Poznaj nasz Amerykaski Bar.
Taniec Go - Go, Drink Bar, Jacuzzi, Masae, Bankiety
Microbreweries
Bierhalle F-1, ul. Chorzowska 107 (Silesia City Cen-
ter), tel. (+48) 32 605 01 61, www.bierhalle.pl. No
matter how many hangovers you endure drinkers will find
themselves returning to the scene of the crime, Bierhalle,
time and time again. The reason for this is the best beer in
the city. Theres a number of brews to choose from, ranging
from pilsner to Dunkel with the wheat standing out as our
personal fave, but we encourage you to have a go at them
all. Primarily a restaurant, the design is all heavy timber,
bare brick and industrial flourishes, while efficient staff
dressed as peasant wenches work miracles hoisting heavy
tankards and keeping track of the deluge of food and drink
orders. You wont want to leave. QOpen 12:00 - 23:00,
Fri 12:00 - 24:00, Sat 11:00 - 24:00, Sun 11:00 - 23:00.
PAGBSW
Spi (Bronze) C-1, ul. Opolska 22, tel. (+48) 32 781
11 32, www.spiz.pl. If youre thinking of killing yoursel f
then head to Spi, a sharp reminder that life really can get
worse. Youll need to queue at the entrance to buy a swipey
card, which in turn allows you to join another queue at the
bar to buy your beer. But thats not before you join another
queue to leave your coat at the obligatory coat check. Find
your patience rewarded with a dazzling collection of neon
rubbish, industrial bits and pieces and crappy pop noise.
While the beer is by no means bad, its certainly not worth the
aggravation guests are expected to endure. QOpen 20:00 -
05:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. PAUXW
Wine Bars
La Passion du Vin A-1, ul. Chorzowska 107, tel. (+48)
32 605 01 68, www.winnica.pl. An elegant looking winery
stroke shop found in the depths of the Silesia City Centre
mall. The wine racks here offer the most comprehensive
choice of wine to be found in the city, and white-shirted girls
are on hand to guide the less-educated through. Decorated
with dark woods and padded seating this place looks every
bit as posh as it should, and theres an upmarket menu to go
alongside the tipple of your choice. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00,
Fri 10:00 - 22:00. PAGW
Winiaria Burgundia C-2, ul. 3 Maja 23, tel. (+48) 32
253 75 19, www.burgundia.com.pl. Hidden away down
the same dark alleyway as City Pub, Wineria Burgundia fea-
tures both a shop and bar in which to indulge ones taste for
the grape. By far the best of the citys wine bars, find a slightly
snobby albeit enjoyable and relaxed atmosphere. A really
admirable selection of world wines for all tastes and budgets.
Another location in the Altus Centre (H-3, ul. Uniwersytecka
13). QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 15:00 - 22:00. PAGW
Adult Entertainment
Queens ul. Ceglarska 35, Gliwice (Ligota Zabrska),
tel. (+48) 32 305 30 20, www.queensnightclub.com.
This well-regarded club featues two bars, one wherein girls
go-go dance on a table in the middle and it would be difficult
to stand up from some of the seats without picking a strip-
per up on your shoulders. In summer theres also a jacuzzi,
sauna and outdoor pool, but the highly suggestive massage
services are year round. Queens also seems to operate an
escort service, making their girls, who have been charmingly
described as no pros, simply girls of next door, study or are
housewives, available for business and family functions,
movie dates and birthdays (their suggestions). This could be
the way to finally become the cool uncle at the next family
barbeque. QOpen 18:00 - 05:00. PAUBX
Proven masters of make-do with the potato as their
primary resource, the Poles have been producing and
drinking vodka since the early Middle Ages, distilling
their skill into some of the best vodka blends available
in the world, many of which date back centuries. The
two most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands
must be Belvedere and Chopin, both of which youll find
in any alcohol shop. But you wont find many tipplers
throwing them back at the bar. While clear vodkas are
generally reserved for giving away at weddings and mix-
ing in cocktails, the real fun of Polish vodka sampling is
the flavoured vodkas. Unlike beer with juice (regarded as
highly emasculating), flavoured vodkas are embraced by
both sexes and imbibed copiously.
Winiwka
Undoubtedl y the most common fl avoured vodka,
wi ni wka i s a cheap, dangerousl y easy to dri nk,
cherr yfl avoured vari ety. Youl l see students and
pensioners alike buying trays of i t at the bar, as well
as toothl ess tramps sharing a bottl e in corners of
tenement courtyards. A splash of grapefrui t j ui ce is
often added to cut the sweetness of this bri ght red
monogamy cure.
odkowa Gorzka
Due to its very name, which translates to something like
Bitter Stomach Vodka, odkowa Gorzka gives even the
most infirm of health an excuse to drink under the guise
of its medicinal properties. An aged, amber-coloured
vodka flavoured with herbs and spices, odkowa has
a unique aroma and sweet spiced taste unlike anything
youre likely to have tried before. Incredibly palatable, its
best enjoyed when sipped on ice.
Krupnik
Popular in Poland and Lithuania, Krupnik is a sweet vodka
made from honey and a multitude of herbs. Buy a bottle
for Mum drinking vodka doesnt get any easier than this.
In winter, hot krupnik is a popular personal defroster with
hot water, lemon and mulling spices added.
ubrwka
One of Pol ands most popul ar overseas vodka
exports, ubrwka has been produced i n Eastern
Poland since the 16th century. Flavoured with a type
of grass speci fic to the primeval Biaowiea Forest
that straddles the border (a blade of which appears
i n each bottl e), ubrwka is fai nt yell ow i n col our,
with a mild fragrance of mown hay and a subtle taste
which has been described as floral or having traces
of almond or vanilla. Delightfully smooth as it is on
its own, ubrwka is most commonl y combined with
apple juice a refreshing concoction called a tatanka.
Goldwasser
A celebrated Gdask tradition since 1598, Goldwasser
is a unique alchemic elixir characterised by the 22 karat
gold flakes floating in it. One of the oldest liqueurs in
the world, Goldwassers secret recipe contains some
20 roots and herbs, combining to create a sweet, but
spicy flavour with touches of anise, pepper and mint.
While we thought turning the potato into vodka was an
example of creative ingenuity, were not sure what sort
of statement the practice of turning gold into vodka
makes about Polish culture...
Polish Vodka
50
51
ESSENTIAL KATOWICE HISTORY
The fact that Katowice hasnt grown into a popular tourist
destination can probably be explained by the brevity and
slightly dubious nature of our Katowice sightseeing sec-
tion - an earnest attempt to cover Katowices main (ahem)
attractions. Nope, no castle, no palace, no hip bohemian
district. No pedestrian shopping avenues, bridges or scenic
riverside. Uh, no, no ancient ruins. No Old Town per say.
Alas, a trip around Katowice may call to mind the old adage
Beauty is in the eye of the beholder (with the coal dirt and
other particulates, in this case).
No, Katowice wont be winning any European beauty pag-
eants as youll discover as soon as you arrive at the train
station. And unlike other urban casualties (hello to our friends
in Warsaw), the city cant claim to have been beaten by the
Ugly Stick during World War II. No, Katowice was born with
that heirloom in its hand and the Nazis probably snatched
it from here as they rumbled east to the capital. And while
the Soviets returned with it after the war, destroying many
of the buildings on the Rynek in the 1950s to make room for
their modern monuments to concrete, for example, it was
predestiny that Katowice would never be belle of the ball.
A blue collar city to this day, Katowice and its neighbours
in Upper Silesia were born into the working class, growing
Katowice can count itsel f
as one of Polands newer
cities, and a direct result of
the industrial age. Thats not
to say the region was a bar-
ren wasteland prior to the
age of steam. The history
books suggest the area was
inhabited by ethnic Silesians
centuries earlier, with the
first recorded settl ement
being the village of Krasny
Dab, whose existence was
officially chronicled in 1299.
In 1598 a village called Villa Nova was also documented to
stand in the area now taken up by Katowice. By this time the
region had changed from Bohemian hands to the domain of
the Habsburg dynasty.
Things started hotting up in 1742 when the area changed
hands once more, this time as the property of the Prus-
sians. 1788 saw Karolina - the areas first mine - opened,
and by 1822 historic documents note 102 homesteads
in the village of Katowice. Two years later the first school
was opened and Katowice started making its first steps
into adulthood. What really set the ball rolling was the
construction of a railway station in 1847. Industrialist and
mining mogul Franz Winkler saw this as an opportunity to
build up the mines he owned in the region, and Katowice
was quickly developed as an industrial town. September
11, 1865, saw Katowice awarded municipal rights and by
1875 it had grown to hold over 11,000 residents, of which
hal f were of Polish ethnicity. The city continued to prosper
as an industrial heartland, with coal and steel industries
flourishing. By 1897 it was officially designated as a city,
though the streets were anything but a happy place; the
even split in population between Germans and Poles was
already causing friction.
After the defeat of Germany in WWI, and the founding of a
newly independent Polish state, native Poles - inspired by
the rhetoric of Woj ciech Korfanty - staged three uprisings
between 1919 and 1921 in a bid to have the Silesia region
incorporated into the Second Polish Republic. To prevent
outri ght war from breaking out the League of Nations
finally intervened and in 1922 divided the region beween
both Pol es and Germans. Kattowi tz, as i t was known
before this date, fell on the Polish side of the divide and
inexplicably became an autonomous voivodeship - a priv-
elege unique from any other province in PL. The inter-war
years marked a golden age for the city, with the building
of the Silesian Parliament complex and one of Polands
first skyscrapers (Cloud Scraper) being symbolic of the
march into the future.
Bad news was lurking around the corner though, and in spite
of a heroic defence the city fell under German control on
September 6, 1939. Aside from the savage destruction of
the synagogue and the Silesian Museum, physically speak-
ing the city escaped the fiery fate of many eastern cities,
and found itself used as a major centre of manufacturing
by the Nazis. Liberation came in the form of Soviet tanks in
1945, and the city was once more Polish - in theory. Between
1953 and 1956 it was renamed Stalinograd, and a period of
thoughtless development followed; the primitive exploitation
of the regions natural resources saw it marked out as an
environmental blackspot with horri fic pollution problems.
Although there was plenty of work in the mines and steel mills,
popular unrest with the communist system was growing fast.
Living standards had plummeted, with empty shop shelves
and round-the-block queues a common sight. In 1980 a
series of strikes inspired by the Gdask born Solidarity move-
ment quickly spread around the country. Demands for better
living conditions were initially met, but Solidarity continued
to lobby for further reforms and free elections. The Kremlin
was furious, and with Soviet invasion a looming threat, ap-
pointed communist president Jaruzelski declared a state of
martial law on December 13, 1981. Tanks roared into the
street, subversives were arrested and telephone lines were
cut. On December 16 a military assault was launched on
striking miners in Katowices Wujek mine, resulting in the
deaths of nine workers. With Solidarity officially dissolved and
its leaders imprisoned, discontent was growing. John Paul II
visited Poland, and Katowice, once more in 1983, his mere
presence igniting hopes and unifying the people in popular
protest. The people would not back down. Over the next few
years - buoyed by a Gorbachev-inspired relaxation of Soviet
foreign policy - the Polish people continued to batter on the
door of freedom.
Renewed labour strikes and a faltering economy nosediving
towards disaster forced Jaruzelski into initiating talks with
opposition leaders in 1988, and the following year Solidar-
ity was once more granted legal status. Participating in
Polands first post-Communist election the party swept to
victory, with former electrician Lech Wasa leading from
the soapbox. Fittingly it was Wasa who unveiled a monu-
ment in Katowice to the miners killed in 1981 on the tenth
anniversary of the event. Polands transition to a market
economy has since been tough, though the signs seem to
point to a bright future for Poland. Katowice itsel f has done
much to repair the environmental damage caused in the
post WWII years, and the city is once more booming, with
a huge influx of foreign investment marking a reversal of
the cities recent fortunes.
1299: First recorded settlement in Silesia, ruled by
Polish Silesian Piast dynasty
1335: Territory becomes part of Crown of Bohemia
1526: Territory passed to Austrian Habsburg Monarchy
1598: First documented settlement in Katowice area
1742: Territory becomes part of Prussian empire during
First Silesian War
1788: Areas first mine opens
1822: Katowices population hits 100 homestead mark
1847: Railway station built
1865: Municipal rights awarded to Kattowitz
1871: Kattowitz is incorporated into German Empire
1875: Kattowitzs population records 11,000 residents
1897: Granted rights as a city
1922: Katowi ce becomes par t of Second Pol i sh
Republ i c after WWI and Si l esian Upri si ngs
(1918-21). Granted autonomy by the Polish Sejm.
1939: Occupied by Nazi Germany
1945: Katowice is Liberated by Soviets after WWII
1953: City is renamed Stalinogrd by Polish communist
government
1956: Former name of Katowice restored
1981: Martial law declared, Wujek mine strike and
massacre
1983: The Pope visits Katowice
1989: Party-free el ecti ons i n Pol and; Communi st
regime crumbles
2004: Poland enters the European Union
2006: Pigeon Fair Disaster - 65 killed and 170 injured
when Katowice convention centre roof collapses
Katowice Historical Timeline
up during the industrial revolution and put to work in sooty
mineshafts, factories and railway yards. The areas history is
inextricably entwined with the manufacture of coal and steel
and the stacks, shafts, slagheaps and massive waves of
migrants that followed the discovery of the regions mineral
resources. As such, any mention of tourism in the district is
usually preceded by the word, industrial. Indeed the derelict
factories and foundries, blackened chimneys and abandoned
maintenance yards of Silesias industrial boom represent the
hulking bulk of Silesias tourist offerings, and the region is ripe
for renegade tourists eager to explore evidence of a bygone
era. Those interested in industrial tourism are advised to get
their creased hands on a copy of Silesias Industrial Monu-
ments Route - which can be picked up free of charge in any
Silesian tourist information office - and while weve covered
many of the entailed sites in this very guide, the region has
plenty more to offer than we have space to include here.
Katowice, for its part, has become a growing business centre
as youll glean from the glittering capitalist monoliths built
in recent decades. Those seeking more conventional inter-
pretations of the word attraction will find plenty of churches
including Christ the King Cathedral - the countrys largest,
one of the best museums in southern Poland in the Katowice
Historical Museum, and anyone paying attention will notice
a number of discreetly handsome townhouses, particularly
along ulica 3-go Maja between the Rynek (H-3) and Plac
Wolnoci (H-1). Conventional charm has obviously never
been a strength of Katowice, however, as best evidenced by
the bonkers Spodek building (B-3) and the offbeat outland
districts of Nikiszowiec and Giszowiec. The citys most
bonafide attraction is the immense Park of Culture and
Recreation, to which weve dedicated the feature, despite
the fact that its techincally located in Chorzw. Yes, its
always been the shaft (literally) for Katowice, and while being
a tourist in this city may feel a bit like getting dressed for the
theatre and ending up at a Board of Education meeting, we
hope you enjoy it for its oddities, and remember that some
things look most beautiful through beer goggles.
Katowice Historical Museum Jan Mehlich
Spodek and downtown Katowice UM Katowice
Christ the King Cathedral PetrusSilesius
Silesian Parliament Jan Mehlich
52
WHAT TO SEE
53
WHAT TO SEE
SS Peter & Pauls Church (Koci w. Piotra i
Pawa) E-1, ul. Mikoowska 32, tel. (+48) 32 251 70
45, www.piotripawel.wiara.org.pl. Built to accommodate
an expanding metropolitan congregation who outgrew the
limited size of Koci Mariacki, Katowices other exemplary
neo-Gothic church was built using 20,000 German marks
given to the city by Cardinal Georg Kopp, Bishop of Breslau,
between 1898 and 1902 on land formally owned by a farmer
called Adamiec. Josef Ebers design is truly delightful, and
incorporates glazed green bricks into the classic red brick
exterior. Inside, find a fine organ built by the master organ
builders Kurzer of Gliwice and some lovely stained glass de-
picting the two saints after whom the church is named. Of the
five original bells, two were taken away by the Germans during
WWII and made into weapons. The church also served as
the citys cathedral between 1925 and 1955. QOpen 06:30
- 19:00, Sun 07:00 - 19:00. No visiting during mass please.
St. Annas Church (Koci p.w. w. Anny) S-3, ul.
3 Maja 18, Zabrze, tel. (+48) 32 271 36 74, www.kuria.
gliwice.pl. After spending some time wandering Silesian
urban centres searching for the soul within all that commu-
nist concrete, its the sight of something like the Church of
St. Annes that can put your heart at ease. Standing at the
end of a long, picturesque lane of maple and linden trees,
this beauty takes pride of place in downtown Zabrze as the
citys finest sacral building. Built in the years 1897-1900
in neo-Romanesque style with neo-Gothic elements, the
cross-shaped church features a clock in its belltower and
a fine interior full of red brick arches with ornamental stone
detailing and gold leaf wall highlights. Take a look at the nu-
merous semicircular stained glass windows depicting saints.
Q Open 06:30 - 19:00. No visiting during mass please.
St. Jadwigas Church (Koci p.w. w. Jad-
wigi) ul. Wolnoci 504, Zabrze, tel. (+48) 32 271
46 77, www.sw-jadwiga.info. I ts not onl y the Indus-
trial Monuments Route that turns the steering wheel of
unsuspecting tourists into Zabrze, but also the Wooden
Churches
All Saints Church (Koci Wszystkich witych)
M-3, ul. Kocielna 4, Gliwice, tel. (+48) 32 231 05 76,
www.fara.kuria.gliwice.pl. The 15th century All Saints
Church is one of the defining landmarks of Gliwice, and
though modi fied through the ages it remains a stunning
example of Gothic architecture. Recent excavations suggest
that the immediate surrounds functioned as a cemetery from
as early as the 12th century, while the brick church itself is a
feast for the eyes, and stuffed with intricate statues of the
saints. The church tower can also be climbed for views of the
city, but only on weekends between May and September at
precisely 16:00 and 17:00. Q Open 08:30 - 18:00.
Church of St Michael the Archangel (Koci w.
Michaa Archanioa) G-1, ul. Kociuszki 112, tel.
(+48) 32 205 40 61. Like the other wooden church of note
in the area, this one, which also happens to be the oldest
ecclesiastic building in Katowice, began life elsewhere, in
this case in neighbouring Syrynia way back in 1510. Moved
to Katowice in 1938, and worth a trip to Park im. Tadeusza
Kociuszki where it can be found for that reason alone, ac-
cess inside is usually denied by a security guard, meaning
that the 17th-century pulpit, late Gothic 16th-century sculp-
ture of the Holy Mother and Child from Dbiesko and 17th-
century belfry must be real treasures indeed. Find it close
to the main road at the northern end of the park. QOpen
10:00 - 16:00. No visiting during mass please.
Cemeteries
Jewish Cemetery (Cmentarz ydowski) D-1,
ul. Kozielska 16, tel. (+48) 32 251 10 22. Set up in
1868, the Jewish Cemetery is one of the ci tys oldest
cemeteries and contains almost 1,500 graves. Much of
i t was destroyed by the Germans and their henchmen
during WWII and though Jews continue to be buried here
and there is a Holocaust memorial inside, the cemetery
has long been in a state of semi-disrepair. Fortunately,
renovation works are now underway to clean up the resting
place, but i f you want to get in youll have to have the good
fortune of getting the key from an administrator who may
or may not be on hand. Q Open by prior arrangement.
Red Army Cemetery (Cmentarz onierzy Armii
Czerwonej) Park Tadeusza Kociuszki (Brynw).
Moved to its current location at the far southern end of
Park im. Tadeusza Kociuszki to make way for the city-
centre Silesian Insurgents Monument in 1967, this small
Red Army Cemetery is surprisingly well kept compared
to similar cemeteries in Poland. The final resting place
of about 300 Soviet soldiers who gave their lives in the
liberation of Katowice from the Germans in 1945, check
out the hammer and sickle fence around the perimeter and
the small memorial in the centre, complete almost always
with a bunch of fresh flowers.
City Information Office C/D-3, ul. Rynek 13,
tel. (+48) 32 259 38 08, www.katowice.eu. With a
brand-new, several-storey, blinking blue and yellow neon
sign, Katowices City Information Office is hard to miss
and isnt it just downright adorable to see them trying so
hard? The super-friendly staff can offer time-killing sug-
gestions in English or German and they stock a range of
materials about the many things youll probably never see
or do across Silesia. Free maps and lots of information
on daily cultural events, as well as a free touch-screen
computer with city information out front. QOpen 09:00
- 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Nikiszowiec Information Office ul. Krawczyka
5 (Nikiszowiec), tel. (+48) 32 253 78 53, www.
pttk.katowice.pl. Tourists intrepid enough to explore
Nikiszowiec should stop by this info office where the
sweet lady working there will be overjoyed to see you and
ask you 47 questions in Polish, in rapid succession, as
you enter your name in the guestbook and try to explain
that you dont understand anything shes saying; its
also a good place to pick up a handy free map and some
information about the area. Note that at press time it
was possible that from September they will move to new
premises at ul.Rymarska 4. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sat
10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Tourist Information S-2, Pl. Dworcowy 5, Zabrze,
tel. (+48) 32 370 29 81, www.zabrze.com.pl. Your
first stop for a full rundown on what to see and where to
find it. This is an Aladdins Cave of Zabrze related stuff
with English language pamphlets, maps, brochures
and other fire lighting equipment served up for free
by a multi-lingual team who know the city inside out.
Conveniently located directly across from the train sta-
tion this place twins as a handy internet cafe. You may
find yourself killing some time there during your visit...
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Tourist Information
Christ the King Cathedral (Katedra Chrystusa
Krla) E-2, ul. Plebiscytowa 49a, tel. (+48) 32
251 21 96, www.katedra.katowice.opoka.org.pl.
Building work began on Zygmunt Gawlik and Franciszek
Mczyskis impressive neo-Classical Cathedral on June
5, 1927 with the first digging of a symbolic spade of dirt,
although it wasnt until October 30, 1955 that it was
finally consecrated. A series of minor hiccups including
WWII and some typical interference from the post-war
communist regime meant that there was no shortage of
setbacks for arguably whats the most beautiful build-
ing in the city and, somewhat surprisingly, the largest
cathedral in Poland. Its first 12 years until the outbreak
of the war saw the walls go up and little else, with the
end of hostilities heralding a new burst of activity num-
bering some six years and involving the arrest of the
parish priest, the local bishops being thrown out of the
diocese and a communist-approved priest brought in to
supervise the buildings completion. The latters legacy to
the Cathedral was his decision to alter the design of the
dome, dropping it by some 38m from its original design
and turning what promised to be a truly splendid looking
church into something a little more compact and comical.
In 1957 the displaced bishops returned, and during the
period 1962-65 the interior was adapted to the way it
more or less appears today. Although somewhat plain,
the interior is truly breathtaking. Of particular interest is
St Barbaras Chapel on the left-hand side of the nave. The
patron saint of miners, Gerard Grzywaczyks sculpture
of Barbara overlooks an altar made from coal and a
monument to lost miners. Hidden away above the large
dome are five bells, of which the largest weighs in at a
mammoth 3.5 tonnes. The monument of Pope John Paul
II outside commemorates the late church leaders visit to
the Cathedral in June 1983. QOpen 06:30 - 19:00, Sun
Christ the King Cathedral
PTTK Katowice C-3, ul. Rynek 13, tel. (+48) 32
253 03 62, www.pttk.katowice.pl. Feeling a bit lost
or uncertain about Katowice? Take a guided tour with
the citys one and only English-speaking guide and get
an inside perspective on what Katowice has to offer
(sometimes you need a second opinion). Demand for the
service being what it is, dropping by the office wont do;
ring PTTK to make an arrangement and youll probably
make their day as well. Services available year round.
NEW
SilesiaTrip.pl tel. (+48) 502 11 63 31, www.silesi-
atrip.pl. Silesia Trip is a useful and comprehensive way
to comfortably explore much of what there is to travel to
and explore in the Katowice area of Silesia. Offering pick-
up service from both the Katowice and Krakow airports,
Silesia Trip has a plethora of tours, locales, and sights
included in their itineraries. These include Polish brewer-
ies, the Auschwitz-Birkenau death camp and memorial,
the Guido coal mine, and of course the areas castles,
palaces, and museums. All tours are available in English,
German and Polish, and are targeted for those who have
a particular interest in the history, culture and people of
Eastern Silesia. Their multi-lingual website list all the
details: http://www.silesiatrip.pl/eng.
Tours
54
WHAT TO SEE
55
WHAT TO SEE
St. Marys Church (Koci Mariacki) D- 4, Pl.
ks. Emila Szramka 1, tel. (+48) 32 258 77 44, www.
mariacki.wiara.org.pl. Katowices oldest existing Catholic
parish church was built from Silesian dolomite, not the usual
red brick, between 1862 and 1870 to a design by the famous
Breslau (Wrocaw) architect Alexis Langer. Originally planned
on a far grander scale than it was eventually built, the 43m-
long, 31m-wide neo-Gothic building features an eye-catching,
trademark Langer 71m octagonal tower and a feast of good
things inside. The altar in the transept supposedly dates from
the 15th century, whilst the wonderful stained glass windows
on either side of the nave representing sin and virtue are
the work of Adam Bunsch (1896-1969). The Chapel of the
Holy Sacrament includes a likeness of Father Emil Szramek
in traditional Silesian dress. Szramek was the parish priest
from 1926 until his arrest by the Gestapo in April 1940. Sent
to a number of concentration camps including Dachau, where
he quickly became a spiritual leader for other incarcerated
Silesian priests, he was murdered on January 13, 1942.
QOpen 07:00 - 19:00.
Sts. Peter & Pauls Cathedral (Katedra p.w. w.
Apostow Piotra i Pawa) M-4, ul. Jana Pawa II
5, Gliwice, tel. (+48) 32 230 89 45, www.katedra.
gliwice.opoka.org.pl. Constructed between 1886 and
1900, this fearsome cathedral is a striking example of neo-
Gothic architecture, and comes replete with mesmerizing
stained glass windows, glazed bricks and a mosaic above
the entrance featuring the saints who gave their name to
this structure. Elevated to the status of cathedral in 1992,
Peter and Pauls is home to what is recognized as the best
organ in Upper Silesia, a Rieger, making it the venue of choice
for organ recitals and other such sacral concerts. QOpen
Monuments
Jzef Pisudski D-3, Pl. Chrobrego. The work of the
Croatian sculptor Antun Augustini (1900 - 1979), most
famously remembered for his Monument of Peace sculpture
outside the UN headquarters in New York, the dashing statue
of Polands greatest modern military hero dates from before
WWII but didnt make it to Poland until the collapse of Polish
Communism, a system in which Pisudski was strictly taboo.
Shipped from its creators Croatian museum in 1990 and
renovated before finally being placed where it is today in
1993, the statue sees our hero astride a stallion when its
a well known fact he always favoured his mare, Kasztanka
(Chestnut). Originally planned to form the centrepiece of a
series of statues relating to the Silesian insurgents which
never came to being, the monuments sword vanished in
1994 and was later found in some nearby bushes by a
bunch of nosy kids.
Si l esi an Insurgents Monument (Pomni k
Powstacw lskich) B-3, Al. Korfantego. Sup-
posedly the largest and heaviest monument in Poland, this
vast bronze edifice is one of Katowices most famous land-
marks, commemorating the three post-WWI Polish armed
uprisings against the German authorities of Upper Silesia
in 1919, 1920 and 1921. The monument symbolizes the
heroism and sacrifice of the insurgents with an enormous
bronze wing for each uprising. Designed by Gustaw Zema and
erected on the site of the citys Red Army cemetery in 1967,
the monument was assembled from 350 parts and weighs
a hulking 61 tonnes. The highest wing reaches 14 metres
tall, making it the tallest monument in PL if you disqualify
the 32-metre high Wujek memorial cross on the other side of
town and probably a dozen other monuments in the country.
But give it a push, its heavy.
Silesian Scouts Monument C-3, Pl. Obroncw Ka-
towic. When the commander of the Polish Army retreated
from the region to avoid entrapment on September 2nd
1939, Katowice was left in the hands of these strapping
young volunteers - the Polish boy and girl scouts. Establishing
critical defence posts throughout the city, the out-numbered,
ill-equipped and inexperienced scouts repelled the advancing
Germans for two days in a valiant, if ultimately suicidal effort
to protect the city. This monument in front of the hideous
Silesia Hotel remembers and honours their martyrdom.
Designed by Micha Brachmaski, the bronze sculpture
stands 4.5 by 4.1 metres and depicts four scouts stepping
out of a broken wall with the inscription, All that is ours to
give, we shall give to Poland.
Museums
Archdiocese Museum (Muzeum Archidiecez-
jalne) E-2, ul. Jordana 39 (entrance from ul. Wita
Stwosza 16), tel. (+48) 519 54 60 23, www.muzeum.
archidiecezja.katowice.pl. Perhaps the sweetest do-
cents in the world guide tours (in Polish) through a fine and
surprisingly large collection of Silesian Gothic-era sacral
art. There are two galleries, though the first on the bottom
floor features temporary, modern exhibits, currently the
stained-glass inspired works of Werner Lobos. The main
gallery upstairs has the permanent exhibition of wooden
sculptures of Madonna, female saints, Christ and others,
several restored and original triptychs as well as articles
used by churches in the region. Look for the museum sign
and entrance below street level behind the Curia building
near to the Christ the King Cathedral. During opening hours
visitors may need to rap on the gated door to gain entrance
as it usually sees few tourists, especially Sundays. QOpen
14:00 - 18:00, Sun 14:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Wed, Fri, Sat.
Admission free. Donations welcome.
Chorzw Museum (Muzeum w Chorzowie) J-1, ul.
Powstacw 25, Chorzw, tel. (+48) 32 241 31 04,
www.muzeum.chorzow.pl. This humble little musuem
never seems to be at full strength exhibition wise and is
quite often inexplicably closed. Set in a handsome build-
ing only a block removed from the high street, should you
make it indoors youll find some oil paintings and furniture,
plus a permanent exhibition on the history of money - the
glass cases packed with old coins and banknotes from the
12th century onwards of which have little directly to do with
Chorzw. QOpen 09:00 - 15:00, Wed 09:00 - 17:00, Sat,
Sun 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 3/1.50z, families
up to 4, 4z. Sun free.
Katowice Historical Museum (Muzeum Historii
Katowic) D- 4, ul. Szafranka 9, tel. (+48) 32 256 18
10, www.mhk.katowice.pl. This outstanding museum
showcasing some of the more interesting aspects of the
li fe and times of the city and its people is divided into three
main sections. Wearing a pair of silly slippers provided in
the price of the ticket, wander the well thought-out rooms
on three floors including a superb recreation of house
interiors of the middle and upper classes of the city from
20, 50 and 100 years ago, a fine history of the city in all
its good and bad forms from its origins until the present
day and a small gallery of religious art. Sadly the exhibits
remain in Polish only, but thanks either to the cleverness of
the curators or maybe just by sheer fluke, most of the things
on display make a lot of sense. One of the best museums
in southern Poland, and well worth visiting when youre in
the city. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30, Tue, Thu 10:00 - 15:00, Sat,
Sun 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/4z, Sat free.
Guided tours 12z per person.
The history of Katowices
Jews is both short and,
like the fate of the rest
of the Jews in Eastern
Europe, horrific. Its been
recorded that at the end
of the Napoleonic Wars
(1798-1815) there was
j ust one sol i tar y Jew
living in Katowice, who
owned an i nn on the
site of todays Skarbek
department store close
to the Rynek, and who
also managed a small
brewery and stabl es.
Persecution under Prussian rule started early, and for a
Jew to get on in life it was expected that he or she should
change their name and write in German. In exchange for
this, Jews were allowed to move freely and settle where
they wished. With the completion of a direct rail connec-
tion to Germany in 1846, German Jews began moving
to Katowice in greater numbers. The first prayer house
opened in 1855, and the first synagogue, at the corner
of todays ul. 3 Maja and ul. Sowackiego, in 1862. By
1870 the Jews made up 10% of the citys population,
and at the turn of the 20th century the Jewish population
of the city numbered some 2,000. As in other industrial
cities, Jews not only prospered in the classic trades of
medicine, law and commerce but also contributed heavily
to the industrial make-up of the city, owning several large
mills and factories. The most remarkable contribution
Katowice made to the history of modern Jewry is that
of the Katowice Conference that took place in the city
between November 6-11, 1884. Although no papers
survive, the general belief is that 22 Jews from Russia,
France, Germany, Romania, Palestine and the UK came
to Katowice (the precise location is unknown) to discuss
the founding of a Jewish nation in the Middle East. The
meeting was chaired by the Polish-born Zionist, Leon
Pinsker, aka Yehudah Leib (Lev Semyonovich) Pinsker
(1821-1891), who proposed that as the Jews were never
going to receive fair treatment in Europe they should all
move to the country he was living in at the time, Palestine.
Pinskers belief was - as history has shown in gruesome
detail - correct, although even he couldnt have imagined
scale of the events that were to take place less than half
a century later. On the day the Germans invaded Poland in
1939 there were somewhere between 9,000 and 13,000
Polish and German Jews living in Katowice. Most were sent
to Auschwitz via the Zagbie (Sosnowiec) ghetto. Although
as many as 1,500 Jews returned to the city after the war,
most left again soon after. Little remains to be seen of
pre-war Jewish life in the city today, with the exception of
the neglected Jewish Cemetery (D-1, ul. Kozielska 16,
see Cemeteries) and an obscure monument where the
Great Synagogue once stood (C-2, Plac Synagogi).
Jewish Community (Gmina ydowska) C-2, ul. 3
Maja 16, tel. (+48) 32 253 77 42. Katowices Jewish
Community was officially set up in 1866. This small centre
run by a handful of brave individuals serves as a prayer
house and also contains the citys only kosher kitchen. Vol-
unteers provide a meals-on-wheels service for the elderly
and disabled and take care of 20 Jewish cemeteries in the
region. QOpen 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat.
Jewish Katowice
Janusz Szczepanczyk
Archi tecture Route. Buil t much more recentl y than most
other wooden churches i n Si l esi a, the deci si on was
taken to construct thi s hi ghl y uni que 1929 structure
out of timber instead of bri ck due to uncertainty over
the stabili ty of the ground beneath i t, whi ch had been
stripped by mining. Designed by Charles Kuttentodta, St.
Jadwigas is large, wondrous conglomeration of pol ygons
wi th the main section being a 12-si ded oval (what are
those call ed?) surrounded by four l ow octagonal towers
crowned wi th copper spires. The interior is full of orna-
mentation added to and restored since the time of i ts
creation, including the hi gh ceiling finished wi th cerami c
til es whi ch had to be changed as recentl y as 2006 due
to damage. Unfortunatel y i ts a bi t of a trek southeast
from the centre down ul. Wolnoci to see i t, but i f youve
got a car thats on the way back to Katowi ce anyway. Q
Open during mass and by prior arrangement.
St. Josephs Church (Koci p.w. w. Jzefa)
ul. Roosevelta 102, Zabrze, tel. (+48) 32 271 05 68,
www.swjozef.zabrze.pl. I f youve been in Poland even
for just an hour, chances are youve seen your share of
churches. But you havent seen one like this. Looking
less like a church and more like the result of an unholy
union between an old shoe factory and a Roman aque-
duct, this monumental brick behemoth owes its brutal
design to Dominik Bhm of Cologne and was completed
in 1931. One immediately notices several un-church-like
characteristics about the building: it has no steeple (in the
traditional sense of the word), it completely lacks outside
ornamentation, it has a window deficiency, and all of the
roofs are flat. The strange faade of this boxy monstrosity
features three rows of four empty arches - the buildings
only design moti f - with no windows in the square flanking
chapels, only two tall faceless slabs of red, irregular brick
on either side of the entrance. Its an imposing sight and
it has to be seen to be understood. To do so follow ul.
Roosevelta west to just beyond the pale of the IYP map
(P-4). Q Open 07:00 - 18:30, Sun 06:30 - 17:00. No visit-
ing during mass please.
St. Lawrences Church (Koci w. Wawrzyca)
I-5, ul. Konopnickiej 29, Chorzw, tel. (+48) 32 780 99
61, www.wawrzyniec-chorzow.katowice.opoka.org.pl.
Built in 1599 in the village of Knurw, immediately southwest
of neighbouring Gliwice, this charming little wooden church
was abandoned by its congregation in 1926 when it became
too small to accommodate the worshippers in its parish.
Empty and slowly falling to pieces for almost a decade, the
good people of Chorzw adopted it, took it apart, and moved
it to its current location in September 1935. Of special inter-
est, should you be lucky enough to visit when the doors are
open, is the wooden sculpture of the Beautiful Madonna of
Knurw, which is believed to have been made in 1420. Q
Open by prior arrangement only.
St. Mary of the Assumption Church (Koci
Wniebowzicia NMP) ul. Kozielska 29, Gliwice
(rdmiecie), tel. (+48) 32 231 09 50, www.wnmp.
prv.pl. Poland is known for its wooden architecture, and you
wont find many better examples than this church. Originally
built in 1493 in the town of Zbowice, and without using a
single nail, the church was transported and rebuilt in its
current location in the last century. Q Open 08:00 - 12:00,
17:00 - 19:00.
56
WHAT TO SEE
57
WHAT TO SEE
Museum of Mi ni ng (Muzeum Gr ni ct wa
Wgl owego) S- 3, ul . 3 Maj a 19, Zabrze, tel .
(+48) 32 271 88 31, www.muzeumgorni ctwa.
pl. Before steppi ng foot i nsi de any mi ne, a vi si t to
the Museum of Mi ni ng ser ves as an essenti al and
fasci nati ng pri mer. Presented i n chronol ogi cal order
are numerous di spl ays documenti ng the devel opment
of i ndustr y i n the ci ty. Al ong the route youl l fi nd ever y-
thi ng from l umps of coal extracted from the ground to
l anterns, posters, photographs, rel i gi ous i conography
and musi cal i nstruments formerl y bl own and tootl ed
by mi ners of tal ent. Li nki ng i t up and bri ngi ng i t al l
to l i fe i s a seri es of wel l - constructed di oramas that
i ncl ude the i nsi de of a typi cal mi ner resi dence, to rec-
reati ons of the sor t of condi ti ons the l ads woul d have
to toi l i n; they ve even stuck a trol l ey-pul l i ng horse i n
ami d al l the square j awed, fl at- capped mannequi ns.
The bui l di ng i tsel f i s a beauty and the square across
the street features a gl ori ousl y l arge Sovi et-st yl e
scul pture of a Si l esi an mi ner, repl ete wi th pi ckaxe
and l antern. Al so under the museums stewardshi p i s
the Krl owa Lui za mi ne; make i t the next stop on your
agenda. QOpen 09: 00 - 15: 00, Thu 09: 00 - 18: 00,
Sat 10: 00 - 14: 00, Sun 12: 00 - 17: 00. Cl osed Mon.
Last entrance 30 mi nutes before cl osi ng. Admi ssi on
6/5z. Groups over 10 peopl e 3z per person. Gui ded
tours - pri ces negoti abl e.
Museum of Sanitary Technology (Muzeum
Techniki Sanitarnej) ul. Tomasza Edisona 16,
Gliwice (rdmiecie), tel. (+48) 32 401 14 40
ext. 10, www.tur ystyka. si l esi a- regi on.pl . Hav-
i ng a dul l day expl ori ng dusty museums? Then how
about vi si ti ng a sewage pl ant. A tri p to the Museum
of Sani tar y Technol ogy al l ows you to troop around
Gl i wi ces fi rst ever sewage pl ant (bui l t i n 1909), wi th
exhi bi ts i ncl udi ng l ots of rusty pi pes, tubes and other
contrapti ons, as wel l as scal e model s, photographs
and vi ews of the current functi oni ng sewage works. I ts
baf fl i ng and exceedi ngl y poi ntl ess, and as such your
vi si t here wi l l provi de pl enty of conversati onal ammo
when you hi t the pub l ater on. QOpen 08: 00 - 11: 00.
Cl osed Sat, Sun. Admi ssi on free.
Piasts Castle (Zamek Piastowski) M-3, ul. Pod
Murami 2, Gliwice, tel. (+48) 32 231 44 94, www.
muzeum.gliwice.pl. Dating back to the 14th century,
Piasts Castle is thought to have been erected in concert
with Gliwices city wall and other forti fications. Changing
owners and undergoing several stages of reconstruction
and renovation over the centuries, the castle is today a
bit of a hodge-podge of styles and materials. In the 1950s
it was renovated to become part of the city museum and
has since been called Piasts Castle, though there is no
evidence to suggest it ever belonged to the Silesian Piast
dynasty. Thanks to a little love from the EU, the castle
completed a major 3-year renovation in 2008 and now has
a multimedia permanent exhibition on the li fe and times
of the city and its people. Visitors are given a thorough
presentation of the regions primeval history from the
Stone Age to the Middle Ages with a bevy of archaeologi-
cal findings, including the crowd-pleasing skeletons of a
wooly mammoth and shaggy rhino. The history of Gliwice
from its 13th century founding to 1989 is also on display
via a variety of media, as well as an ethnographic exhibit
portraying village li fe and a tourist info centre. QOpen
11:00 - 16:00, Wed 09:00 - 15:00, Thu 10:00 - 16:00,
Fri 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon. Last entrance one hour before closing. Admis-
sion free. Guided tours 50z.
Queen Luiza Coal Mine Museum (Skansen Gr-
niczy Krlowa Luiza) ul. Wolnoci 410, Zabrze (Zaborze
Pnoc), tel. (+48) 32 370 11 27, www.luiza.zabrze.pl. The
Krlowa Luiza mine first opened for business in 1791 a year
after Salomon Izaak first discovered coal below the ground.
Ranked as one of the eldest mines in the region, visitors to
Zabrze will unfortunately be limited to staying above ground in
2011 due to improvements being made to the underground
safety system. Your visit will start off on ground level where
youll find chunky pieces of machinery, pistons, dials, pipes,
photo displays, buildings and other industrial detritus clustered
around the old Karnell shaft. Pride of place goes to a steam
powered hoist that made its debut in 1915 to a design born in
Duelmen, Germany. Such was the precision and quality of the
workmanship it continued to be used up until 1990. Every bit
as impressive is the 30 metre hoist next to it; open to visitors
the views at the top allow for sweeping panoramas of the city.
It makes for intriguing exploration with other points of interest
including machinery salvaged from now-defunct mines, as well
as a monument honouring miners from 1850, and a collection
of vintage cars and motorcycles. Q Open by prior arrangement.
Please call 2 days in advance. Admission 5/3z, tower 1z.
Radio Station Gliwice (Radiostacja Gliwice) ul.
Tarnogrska 129, Gliwice (erniki), tel. (+48) 32 300 04
04, www.muzeum.gliwice.pl. Head Gliwice way, namely to ul.
Tarnogrska 129, to take a look at the 110.7 metre radio tower,
which actually rates as the worlds tallest wooden structure and
the last wooden telecommunications tower in existence - and
it still works! Constructed between 1934 and 1935 by the
German Lorenz company (with a helping hand from Siemens
and Telefunken), the Silesian Eiffel Tower has survived the
vicissitudes of time, which is something of a miracle bearing
its history in mind; on August 31, 1939, this site became the
centre of what was to become known as the Gleiwitz incident.
On the orders of Reinhard Heydrich (who would later achieve
infamy in his brutal role as SS commandant of the regions of
Bohemia and Moravia), a crack team of SS troops dressed in
Polish army uniforms staged a mock attack on the tower (which
was then on German soil). To make the assault all the more
convincing the bodies of numerous enemies of the system were
left scattered around, and the faked operation was then used
as the excuse Hitler needed to launch an attack on Poland the
next day. With that WWII kicked off. Unlike the majority of Ger-
man communications towers it survived the war intact and in
peace time was utilized by the communist authorities, its many
purposes including the jamming of western radio programs. In
2005 a museum was opened, its exhibits serving as a tribute to
the events of 1939. Complimenting this display is the Museum
of Radio and Media Arts History, which includes exhibitions
and installations focusing on the past as well as future. Q
Open 09:00 - 16:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. From
September open 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission
5/2z. Sat free. Guided tours 50z.
Silesian Museum (Muzeum lskie) C- 3, Al.
Korfantego 3, tel. (+48) 32 258 56 61, www.muzeums-
laskie.pl. Housed inside a glorious neo-Renaissance former
hotel and having its roots in the 1920s, this three-floor
diversion offers glimpses into the regions archaeology,
ethnography and history by way of a number of temporary
and permanent exhibitions. As well as the usual glass cases
full of bones and pots, particularly outstanding and not to be
missed is the Polish Art collection, showcasing some of the
finest Polish artists of the 19th and 20th century, including
no less than five paintings by the countrys great creative
genius Stanisaw Wyspiaski. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Thu
10:00 - 19:00, Fri 12:00 - 16:00, Sat 12:00 - 18:00, Sun
12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before
closing. Admission 9/4.50z. Sat free for permanent exibition.
Someone really ought to stick up for Katowice. The butt
of jokes across the country and throughout this guide, it
was the butt end of a rifle for Silesia during World War
II, with Katowice taking it in the chest. One of Polands
youngest metropolises, lacking a cache of cultural trea-
sures, Katowice was essentially left to the wolves when
war broke out, as the Polish Army back-peddled to sure
up their positions around Krakw. While the shelling of
Westerplatte on September 1st, 1939 is recognised as
the first engagement of the Second World War, what few
people realise is that Hitler actually started that script here
in Silesia a day earlier. Dressing his SS officers as Polish
soldiers, Hitler staged a mock attack on Gliwices radio
tower which lay just inside the eastern border of Germany
at the time. International journalists were rushed to the
scene and instructed to be outraged when they saw dead
Dachau concentration camps victims strewn about in Nazi
uniforms, giving the deranged Fuehrer justification for his
invasion of Poland the next morning. As the Schleswig-
Holstein fired artillery at fortifications outside Gdansk,
Nazi troops were already advancing into Silesia, bearing
down from the north and south in a well-orchestrated
attack. To avoid entrapment in the region, General Szyl-
ling - commander of the Krakowian army - retreated east
on September 2nd, leaving the defence of Katowice to
a ragtag team of volunteer citizens: haggard partisans
vetted in the Silesian Uprisings twenty years earlier and
pubescent Polish boy and girl scouts. One of the largest
organisations in the country in 1939, the scouts valiantly
came to the defence of Poland, making them the face of
Nazi resistance.
Dispatching themselves to the highest points in the city,
the scouts set up critical defence posts from which to
await the Germans and rain hellfire upon them. As the
front ranks of German General Neulings army approached
Katowice from the south on September 3rd, they were met
with a spirited resistance before even reaching Kociuszko
Park. Stymied by the rifle-wielding upstarts, the German
troops spent the night mending their egos until the morn-
ing. Upon the dawn of September 4th, the scene had
shifted and a steady engagement of gunfire carried on
around Plac Wolnoci (C-1/2) with German troops being
repelled from defensive positions on nearby Gliwicka and
Mikoowska streets. A noble and tenacious effort it was,
however the tide soon turned on the ill-equipped, inexpe-
rienced and hopelessly outnumbered scouts. Camping
outside the centre seemed to have only refreshed the
enemy, redoubling their ranks and munitions, while the
trembling scouts were exhausted, cold and hungry atop
their makeshift skyline foxholes. First fell Plac Wolnoci.
Then fell the Rynek. In fact by noon on September 4th
almost all of Polands underground resistance had been
rounded up and executed en masse. Only the parachute
tower in Kociusko Park remained as the final outpost of
Katowices independence. Exchanging fire with German
troops into the evening of September 4th, the tower was
finally destroyed when the foul-playing Germans used an
antitank gun to obliterate the whippersnappers. The tower
that stands in the park today is a 35 metre reconstruction
of the original 50 metre structure and the only parachute
tower remaining in Poland. The scouts heroic defence of
the citadel, suicidal as it was, grew so legendary it became
the popular subject of poems and songs. Today a granite
obelisk commemorates their brief but noble ascent into
adulthood atop that fabled tower, while another monument
stands at Plac Obronw Katowic (C-3).
In Defence of Katowice
Architecturally speaking the city is a concrete brute, owing
much of its aesthetics to the brash design plans employed
by a number of nutters in the post-war decades. For
Katowice the post-war peace meant one thing a huge
remodelling of the city. The buzzword for architects in this
part of the world was Socialist Realism, which basically
involved building simple, monumental structures. A great
example of this is the fearsome edifice that once served
as the former seat of the Trade Union Council on ul.
Dbrowskiego. Impressive as this is, nothing comes close
to beating the Planetarium on ul. Parkowa 25. The death of
Comrade Stalin marked a shift in architectural styles and
the city planning office found itself employing a number of
graduates from the Krakw Technical School, all of them
inspired by the late modernist style that was all the rage in
the west. So it was in the 1960s and 1970s that Katowice
as we know it really took shape, with several 19th century
tenements ripped down to make way for these architects
bold new visions. One would have thought that much of
Katowices development was the work of a man with a
serious grudge against the city. Nothing could be further
from the truth. The city saw a wad of public funds siphoned
its way courtesy of First Secretary Edward Gierek, himself
a former habitant of the region. Taking on a mass of
foreign loans Gierek was desperate to modernise Poland
and bring it in line with the western world. Katowice had
the pleasure of being foremost in his mind, so much so
that in the 1970s a highway was built to connect Warsaw
with Katowice, primarily to make his journey time shorter.
Of all the monstrosities that were erected in the 60s and
70s, the one that cant be avoided by travellers is the train
station. Sixteen reinforced concrete chalices were built to
support the ceiling a groundbreaking innovation and the
station was designed to hold 25,000 people. Today it is be-
ing demolished and rebuilt from a nasty concrete block that
smelt of tramps to a state-of-the-art station and transport
hub, shopping mall and office complex.Amazingly, opinion
was divided as to its future. The Art History Department
of the Silesian University weighed in with a bid to save
and restore the original with their petition attracting the
signatures of over 150 architects from around the globe.
Across from the station youll find the Rynek (market
square). In Poland the very word Rynek conjures images
of cobbled squares lined with colourful burgher houses;
not so in Katowice. In 1959 a decision was taken to rebuild
the square, which had only suffered superficial war dam-
age, with the plan including two shopping centres: youll
see them for yourself in the shape of the Zenit building
(1962), and the weird Skarbek (1974), whose key feature
is absolutely no natural light. Walk further to view the
Superjednosta residential block at number 16-32. With 16
floors to its credit, and a span of 187 metres, this was the
largest housing project in Poland when it was completed,
with some 1,300 people crammed into it. Its not the only
residential development of note. This must be the only city
in the world whose denizens have the option of living in
cobs of corn or inside a star. Built in 1975 to the design of
Buszko and Franta head to Osiedle Tysiclecia to marvel at
five 25 storey buildings whose rounded balconies give the
structures the appearance of corn. Dont think the weird
minds of Buszko and Franta were happy to settle with
that. In 1978 came their Osiedle Gwiazdy; make haste to
ul. Rodzieskiego to wonder among seven tower blocks
whose bases are set out like octagonal pointed stars.
Eyesores or Masterpieces
58
WHAT TO SEE
59
WHAT TO SEE
Willa Caro N- 3, ul. Dolnych Waw 8a, Gliwice,
tel. (+48) 32 231 08 54, www.muzeum.gliwice.pl.
Constructed between 1882 and 1885 at the behest of
local industrialist Oscar Caro, this renaissance style villa
has been operating as a museum since 1934 when it
came under the stewardship of the Silesian Museum of
Gliwice. Fully restored at the end of the last century the
villa is a supreme example of the architecture of the day,
featuring elaborate woodwork and neo-baroque ceilings.
The lavish interiors are a great peek at how the bigshots
of yesteryear once lived, with the first floor and hal f of
the second expertly preserved as it once was. Features
of note include splendid chandeliers, as well as paintings,
copperplates and 18th century trunks. The third floor and
the other hal f of the second are now turned over to rotat-
ing temporary exhibitions, and the villa is surrounded by
gardens befitting one of Silesias most prominent capital-
ists. QOpen Tue 11:00 - 16:00, Wed 09:00 - 15:00, Thu
10:00 - 16:00, Fri 12:00 - 18:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00, Sun
11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 8/4z, familly ticket
16z. Sat free. Guided tours 80z.
Places of Interest
Cloud Scraper (Drapacz Chmur) D-2, ul. wirki
i Wigury 15. Flying Saucer and Cloud Scraper: Kato-
wices landmarks may be lacking a bit of colour but they
certainly have colourful names. Drapacz Chmur is another
local icon whose beauty and relevance may have faded,
but perhaps no building more represents the optimism
of Katowi ces autonomous i nter-war years. Al though
unimpressive by todays standards and hardly even able
to get its chin above the neighbours, this was the second
skyscraper built in Poland. The work of architect Tadeusz
Kozwoski and engineer Stefan Brya, the structure was
completed in 1934 following five years of work. Measur-
ing 60 metres in height, it remained the tallest building
in Poland until 1955 when it was surpassed by Warsaws
monstrous Palace of Cul ture and Sci ence. The steel -
framed building was touted as 17 storeys (counting its
three subterranean levels), and was one of the first in
the country equipped with garbage chutes. As the tallest
thing in town Cloud Scraper was used as a sniper station
during the short-lived defence of Katowice against Nazi
occupation. Though built during an era when decent de-
sign sense still prevailed, Cloud Scraper was well ahead
of its time and today stands inconspicuously as a prime
example of functionalist architecture.
Donnersmarck Housing Estate (Osiedle Don-
nersmarcka) S- 2, ul. Stalmacha, ul. Krakusa,
ul. Cmentarna, Zabrze. Undoubtedl y the most pi c-
turesque corner of downtown Zabrze is the tree-lined
Donnersmarck workers col ony, composed of over 40
stri ki ngl y handsome mul ti -famil y dwel l i ngs uni que for
their tradi tional timber framing and Prussian decorati ve
details. Buil t between 1903 and 1922 for the workers of
the nearby Donnersmarck steel works, i f you have some
time to kill in Zabrze a walk through the area is hi ghl y
recommended, parti cularl y Krakusa street where youll
find the largest trees. Of note in the area is the Jewish
Cemetery on ul. Cmentarna (S-2) and the bizarre Steel
House (Stal owy Dom) nearby at ul. Cmentarna 7d. A trul y
experimental structure, this two-storey building designed
to house four famili es was compl eted in 26 days in 1927
when ei ght massi ve steel walls cast at the nei ghbouring
Donnersmarck Steel works were wel ded together to cre-
ate a crude facade that no paint j ob woul d ever adhere
to for more than a year before peeling. A quintessential
Zabrze roadsi de curiosi ty.
Gliwice Palm House N-2, ul. Fredry 6, Gliwice,
tel. (+48) 32 231 32 39, www.mzuk.gliwice.pl. In
addi tion to being one of the onl y ci ti es in the region to
have retained i ts medi eval layout and character, Gli wi ce
- the yell ow rose of Sil esia - is also the greenest ci ty in
an area famous for being about as l ovel y as a lump of
coal. The corsage on the wrist of this blue collar beauty
is Chopin Park and the Municipal Palm House. The history
of the Palm House dates back to 1880 when a pri vate
conservatory of greenhouses was first buil t. Graduall y
transformed to house exoti c non-nati ve fl ora, the Palm
House was made publ i c and had al ready become a
popular and wi del y marketed tourist attraction by the
1930s. The compl ex featured a 120 cubi c metre heated
pool - the first in Sil esia - and was fill ed wi th water lilli es,
a hi gh water mark for exoti ca at the time. A zoo was also
added, featuring col d-blooded reptil es like alligators and
anacondas, as well as red-bottomed baboons. Becom-
ing a popular l eisure and meeting point for l ocals, the
Palm House successfull y combined the character of a
regal wi nter garden wi th an educati onal venue.Today
the Palmeri e is housed in one of the ci tys most dazzling
pi eces of modern archi tecture, wi th an area of 2000
square metres over four pavilions focussed on di f ferent
climati c condi tions. Totalling some 5600 plants - some
specimens of whi ch are well over 100 years ol d - visi tors
can see tropi cal and subtropi cal plants, usuabl e plants
and succul ents from all over the worl d, in addi tion to an
aviary and slimy-thinged aquariums and terrariums. The
pri ce of admission is a bargain, and i f you get too humi d,
the cafe is a great place to cool of f wi th great vi ews of
Chopin Park. Exceptional fl ora, put in your palm. Hooray
for bi odi versi ty. QOpen from August 09: 00 - 18: 00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Cl osed Mon. Admi ssi on 5z,
students 3.50z.
In a country where beer is cheaper and more widely
consumed than water (and safer to drink according to
some), its worth noting that the two most famous and
popular brands in Poland both hail from Silesia. The
breweries of both are also bonafide tourist attractions
including production tours, museums and...free beer!
Tyskie Brewery (Tyskie Browary Ksice) ul.
Mikoowska 5 (entrance from ul. Katowicka 9), Ty-
chy, tel. (+48) 32 327 84 30, www.tyskiemuzeumpi-
wowarstwa.pl. The Tyskie Browary Ksice, in the
town of Tychy (German Tichau) some 10km south of
Katowice has been brewing beer continuously for nearly
400 years. And because of its Silesian location it has
witnessed a number of historic events over the years
with its own history reflecting that of the region. The origi-
nally German-owned brewery now produces the famous
Tyskie Gronie, Polands best selling beer, and Tyskie
Browary Ksices (or just Tyskie) impressive ensemble
of buildings also includes a superb little museum which
is open to the public for tours. Taking about 2.5 hours
and led by a friendly and informative, English-speaking
guide, the Tyskie tour takes visitors through the entire
brewing process. Starting in the immaculately preserved
Old Brewery, a masterpiece of original decorative tiles
and old copper vats installed during WWI that have had
modern brewing equipment cleverly put inside them,
the tour follows the brewing process from start to finish
and also offers a fascinating insight into the history of
the factory. Highlights include the so-called Bachelors
Quarters and the saucy tales that go with them, a glimpse
of the brewerys own railway station and, across the road,
a look inside the fabulous smelling bottling plant. Now
producing over 8,000,000 hectolitres of booze annually
(or to put it another way, if you put all that beer into half
litre bottles and laid them end to end youd have a line of
beer 80,000km long), the rise of the brewery is recorded
inside the superb Brewery Museum, complete with inter-
active displays in English and housed inside an old red
brick Protestant, neo-Gothic church built in 1902. Tours
must be booked in advance, and yes, theres a tasting
session at the end. The tours are conducted in Polish,
English, German, French, Italian, Czech, Russian and in
the Silesian dialect (if you ever wanted to hear what that
might sound like). The museum building also houses the
local City Museum, which is also well worth having a look
inside if youve got the time while the town itself is worth
a little look to round off the trip.
To get there from Katowice, take a train to Tychy; the
brewery is a short walk southeast from the train station.
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. Visitors must be over
18 and should call in advance to book a place on the
tour. Admission 12z.
Silesian Breweries
Maciej Shaft ul. Srebrna 6, Zabrze, tel. (+48) 32 271
24 49. The most modern of Zabrzes industrial heritage
sites, completionists wont be content without exploring
this sterling example of coal mining operations from early
20th century. Of the towns three mines open to visitors,
Maciej has been developed for tourists the least, giving it an
untouched air of authenticity, as if the workers just happen
to have the day off. The primary sights are the hoist tower
with the original twin-drum hoisting machine by Siemens-
Schuckertwerke which visitors have the opportunity to steer
themselves. Unfortunately the pithead tower is under repair
and can no longer be climbed. Call ahead to arrange a free
tour if you simply cant get enough of this stuff. Q Open Thu
only 09:00 - 13:00. Admission free.
Parachute Tower F/L-1, Park Tadeusza Kociuszki.
Originally 50 metres tall, the parachute tower was built in
1937 for the training of parachute jumpers, however it found
its place in the Polish national consciousness when for two
days in 1939, Silesian scouts defended the city of Katowice
from this tower. Exchanging fire with German troops into the
evening of September 4th, the tower was finally destroyed
when the foul-playing Germans used an antitank gun to rid
themselves of the darn kids. The tower that stands in the
park now is a 35m reconstruction of the original and the
only parachute tower in Poland today. The scouts heroic
defence of the tower, doomed as it was, grew so legendary
that it became the literary subject of poems and songs. A
granite obelisk commemorates their brief but noble ascent
into adulthood atop that fabled tower.
60
WHAT TO SEE
61
WHAT TO SEE
Planetarium Al. Planetarium 4, Chorzw, tel. (+48)
32 241 32 96, www.planetarium.edu.pl. Note: the plan-
etarium will close from August 22 - October 6. Opened in 1955
to commemorate Polands greatest astronomer Nicolaus
Copernicus - of whom a fine statue can be found outside - this
is the countrys oldest planetarium, which given the time period
isnt necessarily a good thing. Located along the cracked pave-
ments of the Park of Recreation and Culture, while charming
in intent the actual building is a quite depressed, somewhat
scrubby 23m concrete dome with an auditorium showing a
classic (and by that we mean outdated) astrological show.
Also a working observatory with a 30cm Zeiss telescope,
seismic observatory and weather station, visitors can view
varying temporary exhibits, or pay for the full sky show, which
were reliably informed can be arranged in English. If you dig
50s sci-fi, youll get a kick out of this; otherwise this throwback
may be a disappointment. Q Opening hours until August 21:
observatory Tue-Fri 09:00 - 17:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00;
exhibition Tue-Fri 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 19:00; sky
shows Tue-Fri 12:00, 14:00, 17:00, Sat, Sun 12:30, 14:00,
16:00, 18:00. Opening hours from October 6: observatory and
exhibition Tue - Fri 09:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00; sky
shows Tue-Fri 17:00, Sat, Sun 11:00, 14:00, 17:00. Admission
2z (observatory), 3z (exhibit). Sky show 12/6z, families up
to 4 people 30z.
Rynek C-3, One could easily be forgiven for standing in the
middle of the Rynek and trying to find the Rynek. Simply put,
its not your typical idea of a Polish market square. Whats
today little more than a tram stop selling flowers started life
in the mid-19th century as Marktplatz, on the road between
Mysowice and Chorzw. The sight of a multitude of spectacu-
lar events in its time, the Rynek has played host to Johann
Strauss in 1850, seen the citys first electric trams trundling
through in 1898, watched as the Red Army marched through
a city on fire in 1945 and, most recently, become a place to
access free wireless internet. Dogged by a ragged collec-
tion of mis-matched buildings and no cohesion whatsoever,
the partially cobbled Rynek has plans to reinvent itself and
become more of a hub for social life in the near future.
Silesian Parliament E-3, Plac Sejmu lskiego. A
standing testament to Katowices short-lived golden age,
the Silesian Parliament complex covers an entire city block
between Jagielloska, Reymonta, Ligonia and Lompy streets
and was the largest structure in PL before Stalin gi fted
Warsaw with a certain monstrosity. Completed in 1929, the
Parliament complex served as the governing seat of Silesia
after the province was inexplicably granted autonomy follow-
ing WWI. Unfortunately Hitler failed to observe the regions
sovereignty when he reclaimed it for the Reich after a short
19 years of sel f-government. After WWII, the new Polish
government stripped Silesia of its prestige, confused by
how Katowice could possibly have ever been considered the
second capital of PL, however briefly. Today the Parliament
buildings still house the offices of the Silesian Voivodeship,
though many have changed function and more still are solely
occupied by wistful memories of bygone days.
Spodek B-3, Al. Korfantego 35, tel. (+48) 32 258 32
61, www.spodek.com.pl. Bill Bryson once wrote of the
English town of Bradford, its role in life is to make every place
in the world look better in comparison. Brysons obviously
never been to Katowice. This is one grim looking place, and
pretty much reviled by all outsiders. There is an old town, in
name at least, and youll probably spend an hour looking for it.
Dont bother, the chances are youre already in it. The Rynek
(main market square) is actually potholed road with a dense
tangle of overhead tram cables, while the surrounding streets
are no more than a collection of gloomy pre-WWI tenement
buildings. And thats the good part; hit the outskirts to see
what happens when commie town planners go mental. So
whats the good news? The city might look nasty, but its by
no means without its charms. Where else for instance will
you find a building that looks like it was steered to earth by
Martians? Thats the Spodek, in case youre wondering, and
not only does it possess a rather colourful history, but it even
has the ability to play space tunes whenever the lights go on.
So where does the story begin? Quite naturally in the 50s, a
time when Katowice was known as Stalinogrd and Poland
resembled a giant brickyard. By the time WWII came to a close
there wasnt much to look at in Poland, and so the architects got
busy with their designs and blueprints. While Stalin was around
the planners had a strict style to follow, Socialist Realist, but
the moment he was spirited into the sky all hell broke loose as
Polish architects let their imaginations run riot. So it was in this
atmosphere when the whole planet was striving to create a
Brave New World that a competition was launched to see who
could design an indoor arena for the people of Katowice. Held
in 1958 and judged by the Association of Polish Architects the
contest was won by a Warsaw company, the winning design
being the brainchild of Maciej Gintowt and Maciej Krasiski. The
resulting Wojewdzka Hala Widowiskowo-Sportowa w Katow-
icach (translating something like Katowice Province Spectator
& Sports Arena) was built in stages between 1964 and 1971,
and at 246,624 square metres is one of the largest, certainly
one of the strangest and, to some, the most beautiful piece of
reinforced concrete in Poland.
Nicknamed Latajcy Spodek (Flying Saucer) the building was
originally going to be built in the Park of Culture & Recreation
but because of its avant-garde appearance finally landed in
the city centre. Holding 11,000 people part of the building
was in use in 1969, though the grand opening only took place
on May 9, 1971. The reason for this delay was simple - in
their wisdom the designers had picked a landsite suffering
medium mine damage. That meant the possibility of cave
ins and collapse so the building was road-tested by 3,500
stamping (and dare we say it, nervous) soldiers. Given the
thumbs-up by equally relieved engineers the building has
been inspiring and amusing people ever since.
And if you think it looks weird now, think what the conservative
locals must have made of it when the ribbon was finally cut. This
was one of the first structures in the world to use what boffins refer
to as Tensegrity, i.e. converging forces to hold that roof in place.
The engineer responsible for this piece of genius was Wacaw
Zalewski, and it was he who came up with the mind-blowing
design of Warsaws legendary SuperSam store; a veteran of the
Warsaw Uprising Zalewskis SuperSam was the first self-service
supermarket in Poland, and his innovative design won an honor-
ary mention at the 1965 Sao Paolo Biennale. But while it was
considered ultra-modern at the time, Zalewskis Warsaw project
was pulled down in 2006 after great big chunks of it started falling
on people. While officials persistently deny that the Spodek is
in danger of sharing the same fate it is one of Katowices more
enduring rumours that the structure is about to give way at any
moment. For that reason alone, check it out while you can - just
dont blame us if you find yourself buried alive.
But while these urban myths abound theyve done nothing to
dent the Spodeks appeal and a re-modelling of the inside in
2009 has been followed by a makeover of the structure which
started in March 2011. A popular basketball venue (it hosted
the final stages of EuroBasket 2009), Spodek is also Katowices
number one place for international rock concerts, having hosted
a disparate collection of stars including Charles Aznavour, Metal-
lica, Depeche Mode, Elton John, Slipknot and Robbie Williams.
Pearl Jam liked it so much that they released a bootleg of their
performance there, while the Smashing Pumpkins went one
better and featured it on the inside cover of their album Adore.
Believe it or not, fans of Steven Spielbergs 1977 blockbuster
Close Encounters of the Third Kind will be delighted to learn
that some clever clogs with a smashing sense of humour has
installed a system that plays a variation of the classic five-note
alien encounter tune from the film whenever the buildings lights
go on. Indeed, what Katowice lacks in normal tourist material, it
more than makes up for its oddities. Beautiful its not. Absolutely
crazy, it most certainly is. Who needs Krakw?
Water Tower ul. Zamojskiego 1a, Zabrze. Amongst
Zabrzes more bizarre architectural monuments (and there are
quite a few), is this fearsome tower found just east of S-4 on
the IYP map. Constructed between 1907 and 1909 to a design
by August Kinda, this incredibly unique secessionist structure
features eight brick buttresses supporting the water tank, which
is covered with a strange octagonal roof topped with a lantern.
At 46 metres this marvel remains one of the tallest buildings
in Upper Silesia today and were it still illuminated rather than in
disrepair, you might mistake it for a wacky wayward lighthouse.
Wilson Shaft Gallery ul. Oswobodzenia 1 (Nikiszowiec),
tel. (+48) 32 730 32 20, www.szybwilson.org. This seem-
ingly obscure and certainly underappreciated modern art gallery
is arguably Katowices best art space and one of the primary
highlights of a trip to Nikiszowiec. Located in the pithead building
and bathhouse of the old Wilson shaft of the Wieczorek mine,
the buildings now occupied by the gallery date back to 1918, and
were designed by the same Zillman brother tandem behind the
Nikiszowiec housing district. The dilapidated mineshaft, where
exacavations began back in 1864, can still be seen in glorious
ruin behind the gallery buildings, having ceased operation in
1997. Taken over by the Pro Inwest company and adapted into
exhibition and office spaces, the area around the Wilson shaft
is now filled with brightly-painted outdoor sculptures in sharp
contrast to the industrial surroundings, as well as a muraled
entrance wall full of colourful pop culture icons (making it hard
to miss). The gallery itself comprises an impressive 2,500
square metres divided into three halls, the largest of which
wouldnt look dissimilar to a gymnasium if the installation art
was swapped for basketball hoops. Full of seriously bonkers,
yet compellingly high quality sculpture, graphic and installation
art by both local and international artists, exhibitions change
regularly with permanent installations - some disturbing, some
playful, some political - hidden throughout the dozens of small
nooks spidering throughout the building. The closest thing to a
contemporary art museum in Katowice, its an admirable and
highly recommendable venue where the security guards are
noticably as passionate about the art as the owners must be.
Best of all, its free. To get there jump off bus 30 at the Galeria
Szyb Wilson stop on ul. Szopienicka, or bus 12 at the Janw
Oswobodzenia stop on ul. Lwowska. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.
Admission free.
Archiwum Spodek
Gui do Mineshaf t (Zabytkowa Kopalnia
Wgla Kamiennego Guido) ul. 3 Maja 93,
Zabrze (Zaborze Poudnie), tel. (+48) 32 271 40
77, www.kopalniaguido.pl. Although its the Krlowa
Mine that tends to hog the limelight, a visi t to the
Guido shaft is by no means a poor mans substitute.
Constructed i n 1855 the Gui do experi ence all ows
hard-hatted visitors to plunge an initial 170 metres
below ground while they learn about the world of coal
extraction. Descent is via one of those scary-looking
cages and from there its non-stop action as visitors
view numerous tunnels and shafts that have been
recreated to look just like they did at the height of the
industrial revolution. The full immersion experience
is helped by staged exhibits, like horses pulling coal-
laden carts and a Jesus lookalike puffing away on a
pipe. Along the way are numerous pieces of clunky,
rusty machinery, including drainage pumps from 1914
and various drilling equipment that looks like it could
have played a part in that hangover you had on New
Years Day. This is a full-on interactive masterpiece
that doesnt just settle for displays of Davy Lamps
and long-since-dead equipment. Of course i t does
that, but i t al so goes further wi th a separate art
floor consisting of multimedia exhibits and cinematic
presentations, as well as sound effects during the
tour that include braying horses and equipment go-
ing kerchung, kerchung. The descent continues to
-320m where a permanent exhibit of miner portaits by
Aleksander Pruger resides and theatre performances
are held every first Saturday of the month. All visits
to Guido are conducted with a Polish-speaking tour
guide; i f you actually want to understand what theyre
sayi ng you can choose to outlay a hefty fee for a
translator on top of the admission cost: 190z for the
-170m level, and an additional 210z for level -320m
level. Your call; either way let them know in advance
i f you intend to visit. To get there from the centre of
Zabrze take tram number 3, or buses 7, 23, 47, 111,
or 198, getting off at the Skansen Guido stop; the trip
takes ten minutes. Q Please call one day in advance.
Admission 21-36/18-31z.
Guido Mineshaft
62
63
Visiting the Museum
Arriving at the Auschwitz Museum can be chaotic and con-
fusing thanks to large crowds, numerous ticket windows
with di fferent designations, and excessive signage that
contradicts itself. If youre in an organised group, you can
avoid this. If you are visiting on your own however, or in a
small group, find the queue for the desk marked Individual
Guests. Although it was previously allowed to enter the
Auschwitz I part of the museum throughout the day, for no
charge - if you were prepared to go around by yourself - now
the museum will limit the times you can do that and has made
it obligatory at certain times to buy a ticket and become part
of a guided tour. This is likely a result of the December 2009
theft of the Arbeit Macht Frei sign, the need to raise vital
funds, and to control the crowds of visitors at peak times.
However you can take heart in knowing that the guided tour
is excellent, profound and professional, and afterwards you
find it hard to imagine getting as much out of your visit had
you explored the grounds on your own. Group guided tours
are available in English, Polish, German, French, Italian and
Spanish; with over 250 tour guides employed, there is an
impetus on the part of the museum to provide the tour in
the native language of each guest - tours in other languages
can be easily arranged in advance.
It is therefore important to note that it is only possible to
enter the museum free of charge and unaccompanied at
certain times and these are listed at the end. Outside of these
times you will be obligated to buy a ticket and go around the
AUSCHWITZ AUSCHWITZ
for up to 10 people, 250z. For larger groups 280z.
Auschwitz II - Birkenau. Open 08:00-20:00. Last entrance
30 minutes before closing. Admission is free of charge.
The film screening costs 3.50/2.50z (group tours have
the film included in price). Headphones cost 5z per person
(group tours have the headphones included in price). Official
guidebook 5z.
Auschwitz I (Pastwowe Muzeum Auschwitz -
Birkenau) ul. Winiw Owicimia 20, Owicim,
tel. (+48) 33 844 81 00, www.auschwitz.org.pl. Your
tour of Auschwitz I begins by passing beneath a replica of
the infamous Arbeit Macht Frei (Work Makes You Free)
entrance gate. The original Arbeit Macht Frei sign was
actually made by inmates of the camp on Nazi orders and
is being restored after it was stolen in December 2009 and
found in pieces in northern Poland a few days after the theft.
From the entrance gate, the prescribed tour route leads
past the kitchens, where the camp orchestra once played
as prisoners marched to work, before starting in earnest
inside Block 4. Here an overview of the creation and reality
behind the worlds most notorious concentration camp is
given, with exhibits including original architectural sketches
for gas chambers, tins of Zyklon B used for extermination
and mugshots of inmates. Most disturbing is over seven
tonnes of human hair once destined for German factories,
which does much to demonstrate the scale and depravity
of the Nazi death machine.
Transported to Auschwitz in cattle trucks, newly arrived
prisoners were stripped of their personal property, some of
which is displayed in Block 5 including mountains of artificial
limbs, glasses, labelled suitcases, shaving kits and, most af-
fectingly, childrens shoes. Block 6 examines the daily life of
prisoners with collections of photographs, artists drawings
and tools used for hard labour while the next set of barracks
recreates the living conditions endured by prisoners: bare
rooms with sackcloth spread out on the floor, and rows of
communal latrines, one decorated with a poignant mural
depicting two playful kittens.
Block 11, otherwise known as The Death Block, is arguably
the most difficult part of the tour. Outside, the Wall of Death
- against which thousands of prisoners were shot by the SS
- has been turned into a memorial festooned with flowers; it
was here that Pope Benedict XVI prayed during his ground-
breaking visit in 2006. Within the terrifying, claustrophobic
cellars of Block 11 the Nazis conducted their first experi-
ments with poison gas in 1941 on Soviet prisoners. Here the
cell of Father Maximilian Kolbe, the Polish priest starved to
death after offering his life to save another inmate, is marked
with a small memorial, and tiny standing cells measuring 90
x 90 cm - where up to four prisoners were held for indefinite
amounts of time - remain intact.
The remaining blocks are dedicated to the specific suffering
of individual nations, including a block dedicated in memory
of the Roma people who perished. The tour concludes with
the gruesome gas chamber and crematoria, whose two
furnaces were capable of burning 350 corpses daily. The
gallows used to hang camp commandant Rudolf Hoss in
1947 stands outside.
Auschwitz II - Birkenau (Pastwowe Muzeum
Auschwitz - Birkenau) Owicim, tel. (+48) 33 844
81 00, www.auschwitz.org.pl. Having completely the long
tour of Auschwitz I, some visitors decline the opportunity to
visit Auschwitz II - Birkenau, however its here that the impact
of Auschwitz can be fully felt through the sheer size, scope
and solitude of the second camp. Added in 1942 Birkenau
contained 300 barracks and buildings on a vast site that
covered 175 hectares. Soon after the Wannsee Confer-
ence on January 20, 1942, when Hitler and his henchmen
rubber-stamped the wholesale extermination of European
Jews, it grew to become the biggest and most savage of all
the Nazi death factories, with up to 100,000 prisoners held
there in 1944.
The purpose-built train tracks leading directly into the camp
still remain. Here a grim selection process took place with
70 per cent of those who arrived herded directly into gas
chambers. Those selected as fit for slave labour lived in
squalid, unheated barracks, overrun with vermin and lice.
Starvation, disease and exhaustion accounted for countless
lives. With the Soviets advancing, the Nazis attempted to
hide all traces of their crimes. Today little remains, with all
gas chambers having been dynamited and living quarters
levelled. Climb the tower of the main gate for a full impression
of the complexs size. Directly to the right lie wooden barracks
used as a quarantine area, while across on the left hand
side lie numerous brick barracks which were home to the
penal colony and also the womens camp. At the top of the
camp lie the mangled remains of the crematoria, as well as
a bleak monument unveiled in 1967. After a comparably brief
guided tour of the camp, visitors are left to wander and reflect
on their own before catching the return bus to Auschwitz I.
museum on a guided tour. The following are the tour times
for a variety of foreign languages.
Guided tours start at 09:30 and then set off at 30 minute
intervals with the final tour at 15:30.
Guided tours in German, French and Italian are available
at 10:30, 12:00, 13:30.
Guided tours in Spanish are available at 10:00 and 14:00.
After purchasing your ticket and headphones, you may have
to wait before your experience begins with a harrowing 20
minute film of narrated footage captured by the Soviet Army
when they arrived to liberate the camp in January 1945. The
film is not recommended for children under 14 (nor is the
entire museum for that matter). After the film, your tour of
the camp begins with a live guide speaking into a microphone
which you hear through your headphones.
Visiting Auschwitz is a full days excursion so prepare ac-
cordingly (comfortable shoes). The guided tour of Auschwitz I
takes around 2 hours, so make sure youve eaten breakfast.
After completing the tour of the first camp, there is only a
short break of about 20 minutes before the bus leaves for
Auschwitz-Birkenau II; in order to stay with the same tour
guide, you need to catch that bus, so it would be wise to
pack some food for the day (though there is a snack bar at
the museum). The tour of the second camp is shorter, last-
ing about 1 hour, after which you are free to explore on your
own and take some much needed time for reflection. Buses
depart back to Auschwitz I every 30 minutes, or you can walk
or catch a cab to the train station (1.5km). At Auschwitz I there
are restrooms (have change available), gift shops, a fast food
bar and restaurant; there are restroom facilities at Auschwitz
II-Birkenau. If exploring Auschwitz without a guide, it is highly
recommended that you pick up the official guidebook, whose
map of the camp is crucial to avoid missing any of the key
sites. You can also find a bookshop at Auschwitz II - Birke-
nau. Q Auschwitz I. Open 08:00 - 19:30. Last entrance
is at 19:00. Tours run from 09:30 with the last one setting
off 4 hours before the museum closes. You may enter free
of charge without a guide before 10:00 and after the last
tour has set off. At other times you must buy a ticket which
entitles you to go around with a tour guide.
Ticket for a guided tour of both camps cost 40/30z. Tours
For centuries the town of Owicim was a quiet backwater
community, largely bypassed by world events. That changed
with WWII when Owicim, known as Auschwitz under
German occupation, became the chosen site of the largest
death camp in the Third Reich. Between 1.1 million and 1.5
million people were exterminated here, etching the name of
Auschwitz forever into the history books; countless films,
documentaries, books and survivor accounts have since
burned it into the collective consciousness.
Visitors to Poland, particularly to Krakw and Katowice, are
faced with asking themselves whether or not they will make
the effort to visit Auschwitz. It is a difficult question. There
are few who would say they actually want to visit Auschwitz,
though many are compelled to do so for their own reasons.
For those of us who dont feel so compelled, its easy to
give reasons for not going: not having enough time, already
knowing as much as we need or want to know about it, not
feeling personally connected enough to the site or the history
to need to visit, or being uncomfortable about the prospect
of visiting a site of such emotional resonance at the same
time as hundreds of other tourists. Having been there, we can
tell you that all of these explanations for avoiding Auschwitz
are perfectly reasonable until youve actually visited the site;
youll be hard-pressed to find anyone who has made the trip
and recommends against going.
The Auschwitz Museum and tour present one of the most
horrific acts in human history with a level of tact, passion,
poignancy and professionalism that is so profound, it almost
makes as lasting an impression as the site itself. Without
being heavy-handed, the history of the site is presented
in all of its contexts and guests are perhaps spared from
full y surrendering to their emotions onl y by the sheer
relentlessness of the information. No matter how much
you think you know on the subject, the perspective gained
by visiting is incomparable. Whether or not you choose to
go to Auschwitz is up to you to decide. However it should be
understood that Auschwitz is not a site of Jewish concern,
Polish concern, German concern, gypsy concern, historical
concern... It is a site of human concern. As such, everyone
should visit.
The town of Owicim lies 33km south-east of Katowice
with frequent buses connecting the two, the earliest
of which leaves at 7:50 from the main bus station on
ul. Skargi (H-2). A one way ticket costs 7-10z with the
journey taking around 60-70 minutes. The bus makes
several stops along the way, though the one you want will
be in the Auschwitz car park across from the reception
area. Trains from Katowices main station are also fairly
frequent, with a journey time of about 50min to an hour.
The Owicim train station (ul. Powstacw lskich
22) lies strategically between Auschwitz I and Auschwitz
II-Birkenau, which are 3km apart. Local bus numbers 2,
3, 4, 5, 6, 9 and 23 stop at Auschwitz I; buy a 2.40z fare
from the nearest kiosk. During high tourist season (April
15th to November 1st) museum buses shuttle visitors
between the two camps twice an hour (from Auschwitz I
on the hour and at :30 past; from Auschwitz II-Birkenau
at :15 past and :45 past), or catch a cab for a rich 15z.
Heading back to Katowice the last bus leaves at 17:05
(on Sundays there is an additional bus at 20:15). The
last train from Owicim station to Katowice departs
at 15:44.
Getting There
1940: In April a Nazi commission decides to open a
concentration camp in Owicim, primarily because of
the excellent transport links it enjoys. Using existing
Polish army barracks as a foundation the construction
of Auschwitz I is completed on May 20th. On June 14th,
728 Polish political prisoners from Tarnw become the
first inmates of Auschwitz I, soon followed by 12,000
Soviet POWs.
1941: The first experiments with Zyklon B gas are con-
ducted on 600 Soviet POWs on September 3rd.
1942: Auschwitz II-Birkenau and Auschwitz III-Monowitz
are established.
1944: Jewish crematoria workers in Birkenau stage an
armed uprising on October 7, blowing up Crematorium
IV. Hundreds escape but are soon captured and put
to death.
1945: Liquidation of Birkenau begins in January with the
burning of documents and destruction of gas chambers,
crematoria and barracks. All prisoners who can walk,
approximately 58,000, are sent on arduous death
marches. About 15,000 die during this evacuation.
On January 27 the Red Army liberates Owicim, where
roughly 7,000 prisoners too weak to move have been
abandoned to their fate. In the months after the war
the Auschwitz barracks are used as an NKVD prison.
Post-war: The Auschwitz-Birkenau State Museum is
established. In 1979 UNESCO includes Auschwitz I and
II on its list of World Heritage sites. In the same year it is
visited by Pope John Paul II. His successor, German Pope
Benedict XVI visits in 2006. On December 18th, 2009
thieves steal the infamous Arbeit Macht Frei sign from
above the main entrance gate; the sign is replaced by a
replica, while the original is found in pieces in the woods
in northern PL. It is now the subject of renovation work.
A Brief History
64
LEISURE
65
LEISURE
Rura Park Al. Atrakcji 1 (Park of Culture & Recreation,
Chorzw), tel. (+48) 32 725 16 63, www.rurapark.pl.
Located on the eastern fringe of the Park of Recreation &
Culture youll find what is apparently the largest kids playpen
in PL. Designed for ages 3 to 12, this indoor rumpus castle is
full of ball pits, slides, labyrinths, building blocks and more. A
birthday party magnet, theres even an attached pizza place.
QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 20:00.
Outdoor Attractions
Upper Silesian Ethnographic Park (Grnolski
Park Etnograficzny) J-6, ul. Parkowa 25 (Park of Culture
& Recreation, Chorzw), tel. (+48) 32 241 07 18, www.
chorzow.pl/skansen. A welcome departure from the industrial
monuments route, this fantastic open-air folk park presents
rural Silesian life through its aged architectural monuments.
Since the late 60s, Chorzws skansen has been rescuing
endangered or forgotten Silesian structures by hoisting them
up and dropping them in this makeshift village laid out over 20
hectares of idyllic countryside. Grouped into six ethnographic
regions, visitors explore some 70 buildings dating from the late
18th to early 20th century, including traditional thatched-roof
homes, granaries, historic wooden churches, wayside shrines,
windmills and theres even an old karczma (inn) where you can
get a bite to eat and a beer. Many of the structures are open
to enter and have unique historical exhibits inside, occasionally
with staff on hand eager to talk your ear off in Polish to keep
themselves interested. One of the farms even has a few goats
and horses, adding some extra magic to this romantic village
of architectural artefacts saved from extinction. Reserve at
least an hour. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00. Mon 09:00 - 17:00. Last
entrance one hour before closing. Admission 6/4z. Mon free.
Zoo Promenade Gen. Jerzego Zitka 7 (Park of Culture
& Recreation, Chorzw), tel. (+48) 666 03 11 76, www.
zoo.silesia.pl. A massive 50 hectare extravaganza of over
300 species from all over the world as well as a rather silly
concrete dinosaur park, Chorzws superb zoo may not be
up to the standards of many zoos in the west but if you need
something to keep the kids enthralled for a couple of hours or
you cant resist the charm and beauty of elephants then this
is the place to head for. Highlights include the aforementioned
pair of elephants, a hippo and a field of graceful zebra. The
sheer size of the place makes renting a wooden handcart
designed to pull the children around money well spent indeed.
More proof that Silesia is more than just a load of abandoned
coal mines. Highly recommended. Q Open 09:00 - 19:00.
From October open 09:00 - 17:00. Last entrance one hour
before closing. Tickets 12/6z.
Parks
Tadeusz Kociuszko Park (Park im. Tadeusza
Kociuszki) G-1, ul. Kociuszki. The most central of Kato-
wices parks, though it gets outmuscled in acreage by the Park
of Culture & Recreation and Katowice Forest Park, Kociuszki
Park is still an impressively sizable 72 hectares. Starting life as
a mere six-hectare municipal wooded park way back in 1888
the park has grown in size and variety and now features over
90 species of trees and shrubs including linden, beech, cherry,
rhododendrons and azaleas. There are also classic English
gardens including an avenue of roses and typical English flower
beds. Other features include sculptures by local artists, the
gorgeous wooden Church of St. Michael the Archangel,
and the extraordinary Parachute Tower close to its southern
border (see sightseeing). Allegedly the only thing of its kind in the
country, it was on top of this tower that a group of Polish scouts
attempted to defend the city from the Germans on September
4, 1939. A small monument next to it marks the event.
Spa & Beauty
City Spa & Wellness E-2, ul. Henryka Jordana 19, tel.
(+48) 32 251 01 99, www.cityspa.com.pl. Customised
treatments for men and women in this centrally located
house of luxuries: facials, hand, foot and body treatments,
hairdressing and a lot more. QOpen 09:00 - 20:30, Sat
09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Nowa Linia G-1, ul. Zgrzebnioka 29, tel. (+48) 32
201 86 47, www.nowa-linia.pl. Katowice may seem like
an odd place to try a communal, yet sexually segregated,
Arabic steam bath - otherwise known as a hammam - but it
sure beats the slag heaps. Full beauty and spa treatments
are also available, plus a solarium and more. QOpen 11:00
- 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
NEW
Termy Rzymskie ul. Dehnelw 2, Czelad, tel. (+48)
32 290 13 90, www.termyrzymskie.eu. Found in the
impressive Palac Saturna, these Roman baths were report-
edly constructed based on plans for the baths at Pompeii
and include a series of pools, baths, saunas which combines
ancient and modern-day methods to relax and regenerate
you. The complex has to be seen to be believed and the ef-
fects are impressive while prices surprisingly low for what is a
remarkable experience. Be warned that apart from Mondays
from 16:30 the Roman Thermal baths and saunas operate a
nude-only policy.QOpen 15:30 - 22:30, Sat 10:30 - 23:00,
Sun 10:30 - 22:00.
Visual Studio Teresa Woniak ul. Bohaterw
Monte Cassino 1 (Zawodzie), tel. (+48) 32 256 26
63, www.vstudio.com.pl. East of the centre, Visual
Studio offers hot stone massage, 4 hand massage, hand
Though it wouldnt appear so on first, second or third glance,
Katowice and the surrounding areas possess a startling
number of recreational areas and leisure opportunities.
Though known more for its industrial attractions and poor
air quality than its nature conservation record, Silesia has
some of the largest urban green spaces, not only in Poland,
but all of Europe. Chorzws Park of Culture & Recreation
is a veritable leisure sections worth of activities in itself,
and though were tempted to stop there, its only one of an
incredible four parks in the immediate area that weigh in at
an impressively over-sized 70+ hectares. If youre search-
ing for daytime alternatives to drinking and tumbling down
mineshafts, they do exist. From horse-riding to star-gazing,
from climbing to flying, Silesia offers plenty of opportunities
for you to get up, get out and get busy.
Bowling & Billiards
Hokus Pokus C-1, ul. Gliwicka 44, tel. (+48) 32 359
59 81, www.hpokus.pl. An 1300 square metre entertain-
ment centre with 12 bowling alleys, an arcade and a pub
where you can mix beer, billiards and bickering over scoring
glitches made by the electronic darts machines. QOpen
09:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:30 - 02:00.
Climbing
Pakernia KW Katowice C-2, ul. 3 Maja 11, tel. (+48)
32 206 23 40, www.pakernia.kw.katowice.pl. Before
16:00 unlimited access to this rock gym in the centre of
Katowice is 8z, after 16:00 10z. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Silesian Rope Park (lski Park Linowy) Park
of Recreation & Culture, Chorzw, tel. (+48) 666 03
13 84, www.slaskiparklinowy.pl. Gi ve yoursel f a new
hi gh navi gating this awesome ropes park in the Park of
Recreation and Cul ture. Ni cknamed The Furnace, the
park of fers an adrenaline-boosting and safe chall enge
for everyone thanks to a bri ef trai ni ng, hel mets and
harnesses. Three prepared routes of varying di f fi cul ty,
including a special course desi gned for chil dren, run a
total of 620 metres wi th 49 obstacl es, 36 platforms
and no l ess than ei ght thrilling zip-lines. Q Open 10:00
- 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. Last entrance one hour
before cl osing. From September open by prior arrange-
ment. 20/15z per route.
Transformator ul. Medykw 2 (Ligota), tel. (+48) 663
35 96 66, www.centrumtransformator.pl. Rock gym ac-
cess Mon-Fri before 16:00, 17/14z; after 16:00 21/17z; Sat
and Sun 21/17z all day. Children under 12, 8z. Equipment
rental 1z. Membership discounts available. QOpen 11:15
- 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:15 - 22:00.
Go-carting
Adrenalina ul. Chemiczna 12, Sosnowiec, tel. (+48)
883 35 72 05, www.gokarty-adrenalina.pl. QOpen
15:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 23:00.
Indoor Playgrounds
Figlarnia D-5, ul. 1 Maja 11-13, tel. (+48) 32 258
96 89, www.figlarnia.pl. An English-speaking staff ar-
ranges activities for younguns aged 1 to 10 years in what
is basically a big rumpus room featuring labyrinths, ball
pits, slides and foamy play pens. QOpen 10.00 - 20.00.
Admission for first 30 minutes, 6-8z; each additional 5
minutes, 1z.
Ul. Dehnelw 2, Czelad
Tel. 32 290 13 90, Fax 32 290 13 92
info@palacsaturna.eu
www.termyrzymskie.eu www.palacsaturna.eu
ROMAN THERMAE Temple of Health and Vitality
TER MY RZYMSKI E
Is a unique and magical place reconstructed based on the ancient drawings of the Thermae of Pompeii.
It is here that you will forget about the grayness and rush of day to day life in the atmosphere of peace,
tranquility and relaxation. 12 saunas and baths, 2 pools, Temple of Water, Temple of Sun, Thermal Cave,
exterior pool and sauna, green terraces, sandy beach, Wellness & SPA are waiting for you.
and foot treatments, permanant make-up, acupressure
and a range of other treatments. And i f you believe in the
power of the talisman you can even have your fortune
read. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun
12:00 - 19:00.
Warsztat Fryzur E-2, ul. Kociuszki 49, tel. (+48) 32
201 40 80. In addition to manicures and pedicures, head to
this city centre cosmetic complex for Botox treatments, hair
extensions or lips like Meg Ryans. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00,
Sat 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Swimming
In spring and summertime, keep in mind that the areas two
most popular swimming spots are actually in parks: Valley
of Three Ponds artificial beach and bathing pond and the
Park of Culture and Recreations wonderful Kpielisko
Fala water park.
Centrum Fitness Monopol D-3, ul. Dyrekcyjna 2,
tel. (+48) 32 782 81 00, www.fitnessmonopol.pl. This
city centre complex offers a swimming pool, dry sauna,
steam sauna, gym and fitness center within splashing
distance of the train station. QOpen 06:00 - 22:00, Sat,
Sun 08:00 - 20:00.
Derrata ul. Boya-eleskiego 100 (Kostuchna), tel.
(+48) 32 607 09 66, www.crobis.katowice.pl. If youre
after more than a dip, make your way out to this recreational/
rehabilitation centre to make full use of the swimming pools,
fitness room and sauna, or uncork with a power shower
and several underwater massage fountains. Q Open from
September 06:10 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun
Admission 8/6z.
67
66
PARK OF CULTURE & RECREATION PARK OF CULTURE & RECREATION
Aside from perhaps Warsaw, Upper Silesia - and particularly
its capital city, Katowice - feels like the region of Poland
most buggered by the communists. The scars are sadly ev-
erywhere, from the brutal, artless architecture of Katowices
downtown to the highway overpass that passes for Chorzws
market square, not to mention the gigantic smokestacks,
abandoned pit heads and dilapidated mining complexes
strewn about. However, Polands communist regime was not
completely without forward vision (or innovative attempts at
placating its citizenry), and only a few years removed from
having inherited the stripped industrial wastes of Upper
Silesia after World War II, party leaders had earmarked a
vast 620 hectare plot on the borderlands of Katowice and
Chorzw with the intention of creating the largest urban park
in Europe. Like many PRL development projects, the party
vision didnt simply call for setting aside some open space
for public use, but building a communist super park that
would deliver entertainment, art, educa-
tion, culture and sports to the masses. Nor
was the land in question an easily relegated
untouched patch of wilderness. On the con-
trary, the designated area was 75 percent
devastated by mining and industrial waste,
with the rest being undesirable marshland
and dead trees. Under the direction of local
hero Jerzy Zitek - an important Silesian
Insurrectionist turned poli ti cian - work
began as early as 1950 on what was to
become known as the Provincial Park of
Culture and Recreation (Wojewdzki
Park Kultury i Wypoczynku or WPKiW):
one of the most ambitious and pioneer-
ing environmental renewal projects ever
undertaken in Europe.
In typical party fashion, Silesias working
class was strongly encouraged to partici-
pate in the creation of this peoples park;
park resources were even used to instruct
people on how to contribute through a series of public work-
shops. Support for the project was massive, and indeed
everyone from industrial workers to schoolchildren (wait, that
is everyone) joined in the digging and planting of an astound-
ing 3.5 million trees and shrubs in the first year alone, as the
project moved forward at a record clip. Over 70 different plant
species were introduced, primarily poplar, willow, birch, black
cherry and elderberry trees known for their ability to grow
quickly and resist the effects of the industrial pollution that
characterised the Black Triangle, as the region was then
known. The park itself was quickly dubbed the Green Lung
of Silesia and as the project developed successfully over
the years, a microclimate conducive to more sensitive spe-
cies was established, wherein a variety of more common or
exotic plants are able to flourish today, including a beautiful
rose garden. In total 3.5 million tonnes of soil were moved
to shape the area of the park, and 500,000 cubic metres of
humus used to fertilise it. After completing the rehabilitation
of the parks landscape, the park committee systematically
set about establishing a series of attractions in the vast
space of WPKiW including the amusement park, zoo,
planetarium, narrow-gauge railway, Silesian Stadium,
Elka cableway and others as the park developed inten-
sively in the 50s, 60s and 70s. Two zones were essentially
created which remain today, with the rear half left natural
and the attractions stacked toward ul. Chorzowska where
the main entry points to the park are located. In the 1970s
as many as 1,300 people were employed by WPKiW, of which
500 worked on the landscaping of the park (today about 40
people do this job).
In an ironic inversion of the si tuation faced by many other
Polish historical and cul tural monuments, the hard times
came i n 1989 when the communist regi me crumbl ed
and the park began a period of stagnation, negl ect and
eventual bankruptcy. However WPKiK has been on the
rebound since i t became a publi c enterprise subsi dised
by the state budget in 2003, and today is on the way
to re-establ i shi ng i tsel f as one of southern Pol ands
bi ggest tourist attractions. The last several years have
seen worl d-class ri des added to the amusement park,
as well as the opening of parks for more popular modern
pursui ts including the paintball park, skate park and
dirt bike course. Numerous new high class restaurants,
cafes, bars and hotels continue to open in and around
the park whil e currentl y plans are afoot to create new
attractions including an aquarium, year-round ski sl ope,
and the renovation of the famous Elka cabl eway (now
closed but planned to re-open in summer 2012). The total
modernisation of Silesian Stadium (Stadion lski) one
of the first attractions to open in WPKiK in the 50s is
also well underway as i t l ooks to increase i ts capaci ty to
upwards of 55,000, adding sky and press boxes and a
partial dome that will cover all of the seating; a popular
venue for some of the countrys bi ggest concerts in ad-
di tion to sporting events, the stadium isn t due to host
matches during the Euro 2012 football tournament as
Gdansk, Poznan, Wroclaw and Warsaw are the chosen
venues. With problems with the roof delaying the comple-
tion of the re-buil ding work that appears j ust as well.
Despi te al l of the recent i mprovements, today the
attracti ons of WPKi W sti l l stand i n a state of transi -
ti on between faded communi st fun park and modern
wonderl and, maki ng a vi si t al l the more uni que, i f not
more i nteresti ng. The contrast i s most evi dent i n the
amusement park, where ori gi nal ri des and games
from i ts openi ng days are sti l l i n use, whi l e a tri p to the
pl anetari um of fers a portal i nto the worl d of 1950s sci -
ence fi cti on. Though the zoo i s unl i kel y to change your
vi ews about keeping ani mals in capti vi ty, and numerous
crumbling pathways and crude concrete concourses are
sti l l i n need of attenti on or rei nventi on, there can be no
doubt that WPKi W has the potential to devel op i nto one
of the greatest parks i n al l of Europe; and i n the heart
of Upper Si l esi a, no l ess. Enj oy i t.
Getting to the Park of Culture & Recreation from Katowice
is as easy as hopping on a tram or bus. There are four
tram and bus stops along the course of the park: WPKiW
Wesoe Miasteczko (amusement park), WPKiW lski
Ogrd Zoologiczny (the zoo), WPKiW Wejcie Gwne
(mai n entrance), Chorzw Stadi on l ski (Sil esian
Stadium). Take trams 6, 19 (which you can catch on
Katowices Rynek) or 11; or buses 6, 820, 830 or
840 (getting off at WPKiW lski Ogrd Zoologiczny).
Although Chorzw is technically in zone 2 of Katowices
public transport system, with a zone 1 standard fare
of 2.80z you can travel as far as the Chorzw Stadion
lski bus stop.
Getting There
The largest urban park in Europe is literally loaded with
other unlikely superlatives. In addition to the numerous
bars, restaurants, hotels, recreational ponds, bike and
hiking trails, below weve listed the most popular attrac-
tions on offer, with further info on the primary highlights
found in the Leisure section of the guide.
Amusement Park: Dating back to 1950, Wesoe Mi-
asteczko features fascinatingly outdated original games
and rides alongside new attractions including PLs largest
Ferris wheel, the countrys highest, fastest rollercoaster
and its tallest free-fall tower. See Leisure for more.
Silesian Zoo: Of PLs 14 such zoos, this is of course
the largest with 2,500 animals of 300 different species,
including crowd favourites such as rhinos, giraffes and
white tigers. Make sure to take the kids to the petting
zoo and Dinosaur Valley 16 full-scale constructions of
dinosaurs, the remains of which were found during a Pol-
ish expedition to the Gobi Desert. See Leisure for more.
Planetarium: Opened in 1955, this is the oldest such
facility in PL (with the biggest telescope!) and it hasnt
changed much since. During the day visitors can look
directly at the sun, and in the evenings observe objects
in the night sky illuminated up to 750 times. See What
to See for more.
Upper Silesian Ethnographic Park: One of our personal
favourites. An open-air museum of folk architecture from
the late 18
th
to early 20
th
century saved from the villages
around Katowice, this picturesque village includes edu-
cational exhibits and even some livestock. See Leisure.
Kapielisko Fala: This vast swimming complex at
the centre of WPKiW has been one of the parks most
popular attractions since 1966. Visitors will enjoy a 10m
diving tower, water slide and wave pool. See Leisure.
Silesian Stadium: Silesias biggest venue for concerts
and sporting events, plus other sports facilities and a
hotel built inside.
Rose Garden: Opened in 1968, its the biggest in PL
with 280 species and over 30,000 bushes. See Leisure.

Paintball Park: If shooting guns at each other doesnt
relieve enough stress, try their area for bows and ar-
rows, as well as knife and hatchet throwing. See Leisure.
Narrow- Gauge Railroad: Constructed in 1957, this
cute railway still shuttles families around the park,
stopping at four stations along the scenic 4.2km route.
Inexplicably popular.

Kapelusz (Hat) Exhibition Hall: One of the defining
landmarks of the park, this uniquel y shaped mul ti-
functional space hosts concerts, flower fairs and beer
festivals, but mostly just looks strange and outdated.
SIlesian Rope Park: Three high ropes courses of vary-
ing difficulty, with plenty of zip-lines and a professional
climbing wall. See Leisure.
Silesian Sculpture Gallery: An open-air exhibit of local
sculpture, most of which is cast in concrete, obviously.
Main Attractions
The entrance gate of the Silesian Zoo
The Rosarium WPKiW
The wave pool at Kapielisko Fala WPKiW
68
SILESIAN FOOTBALL
69
SILESIAN FOOTBALL
If there was anywhere in the country which might be de-
scribed as the hot-bed of Polish football then you are in it.
The Katowice conglomeration is home to a number of clubs,
three of which currently reside in Polands top division: the
Ekstraklasa. The area is also home to Polands old national
stadium - the imposing Stadion Slaski (Silesia Stadium) in
Chorzow. Despite this Katowice will not be the venue for any
of EURO 2012 as Gdansk, Poznan, Warsaw and Wroclaw
were chosen as host cities.
Poland is a country with a rich football heritage, fanatical and
knowledgeable supporters and a major European tourna-
ment to look forward to hosting. However, there are some
major problems to contend with first: corruption, incompetent
administration of the game and a serious hooligan issue, and
while there have definitely been big steps made to improve
things in recent years, the country still has much to do.
Poland as a national side has finished third in two World
Cups, and older fans amongst you will remember the likes
of Grzegorz Lato (Golden Boot winner at the West Germany
World Cup of 1974), Kazimierz Deyna and Zbigniew Boniek
(one half of the great Juventus midfield pairing with Michel
Platini). Poles are big fans of football, but the current state
of the game in this country is depressing. The national side
has been in turmoil since before Leo Beenhakker - the ex-
perienced Dutch coach who had managed to get Poland to
their first ever European Championship in 2008 - was fired
(live on TV) on the pitch after Poland crashed out of World
Cup 2010 qualifying in Slovenia. Since then, the national side
has been trying to rebuild itself but a series of defeats, poor
performances and lack of new talent have Poles thankful that
they qualify for Euro 2012 by way of being hosts, but fearful
that this will result in a series of high profile thrashings at the
hands of some of the continents bigger sides.
At club level things have been even worse - if that is possible.
With the national side typically recruiting from the limited
number of players plying their trade in foreign leagues, Polish
clubs struggle to attract talent. Their standing in European
competition is a disgrace, with their last representatives in
the group stage of the Champions League being Widzew Lodz
all the way back in 1996. The 2010/2011 season saw all bar
one Polish entry in Europe out by the end of August, beaten
by mighty clubs such as Austria Vienna, Aris Salonika and
Qarabag of Azerbaijan. The one remaining club in Europe,
Lech Poznan, went some way to balancing that with a spirited
show in the Europa League which saw them beat moneybags
Manchester City and eliminate Juventus after drawing with
the Italians twice - including a tremendous 3-3 result in
Turin. More good news can be found in the development of
a number of new stadia around the country, some of which
are to play host to games in the Euro 2012 finals. However,
the fact remains that the quality of the Polish league is poor,
corruption has been rife (currently over 100 people have been
arrested in recent times for football related offences - includ-
ing club officials and referees) and attendances are low in
comparison to most major European leagues.
While we would not wish to discourage you from taking in a
game here, we do recommend you exercise a certain amount
of caution. To give you a start, here is an introduction to the
conglomerations major clubs and a round-up of how and
where to watch the games.
Well no doubt make enemies for life with this, but the areas
biggest and most successful club is probably Grnik Zabrze
(we can hear the pages of this magazine crackling now as Ruch
Chorzow fans warm themselves by the flames at an evening
kick-off). The fact that Grnik means miner should tell you all you
need to know about the traditions of a club that has 14 Polish
league titles to its name as well as six Polish cups. Created in
post-war Zabrze by the merger of four other clubs, Grnik picked
up their first league title in 1957 and the next 11 years never
saw them outside of the top three, including an unprecedented
five titles on the bounce between 1963 and 1967. Their most
memorable night probably came in 1970 when they fell 2-1
to Manchester City in the final of the old Cup-Winners Cup.
Despite their first ever relegation in 1978, a swift return saw
them add a further four titles in a row between 1985 and 1988.
Aside from a close run thing when they lost the title by two
points in 1995 to Legia Warsaw (a campaign that came down
to a controversial last game against the eventual champions,
and which saw Grnik finish the game with eight men), Grnik
have failed to reach the heights of the communist era. Of the
players who have represented Grnik over the years the most
famous are Wodzimierz Lubaski (the scorer of Polands goal
at Wembley in 1973: a goal which knocked England out of the
World Cup) and the Polish leagues all-time record goal scorer
Ernest Pohl. Grniks rather bare-bones stadium is now named
after this legendary goalscorer - who scored 186 top-flight goals
between 1953 and 1967 - having originally been built in 1934
as the Adolf Hitler stadium. There are plans in the pipeline to
build a new 32,000 all-seater stadium.
Grnik are not the only side to hold 14 Polish league titles, a
record that is equalled by their great local rivals Ruch Chor-
zow. The club, under the name of Ruch Hajduki, were one of
the founder members of the Polish league in 1927 and went
onto win the league five times before the merger of the Hajduki
Wielkie and Chorzow districts saw them adopt the name Ruch
Chorzow (Ruch meaning movement in Polish is thought to
signify the connection of the club with the Silesian Uprising
movement). The outbreak of WWII saw the Nazis shut the club
down and replace it with Bismarckhtter Ballspiel Club but
with the war over Ruch Chorzow returned to form part of the
newly created Polish league. A hat-trick of league titles arrived
between 1951 and 1953 with a further two championships
in the 1960s, three in the 1970s and a final hurrah in 1989.
Ruchs most famous (or possibly infamous) player depending
on who you speak to was the Polish/German Ernst Wilimowski,
who, after having moved from the German 1. FC Kattowitz
to the Polish Ruch Hajduki in 1933 went onto help the club
win the Polish title five times in six years between 1933 and
1938, scoring 112 goals in 86 games. Representing Poland,
Wilimowski scored four times against Brazil in the 1938 World
Cup finals and when war broke out had a record of 21 goals in
22 international matches. As a Silesian and native German,
Wilimowski was valued by the Nazis and went onto play for
1. FC Kattowitz and the German national side during the war
years before settling in Germany after the war, where he con-
tinued to rack up the goals despite being well into his thirties.
His legacy is one that is much debated, but as a footballer
he is still remembered as the man who scored a record 10
goals in a Polish league game: a record that still stands today.
The post-communist era has seen Ruch Chorzow bounce be-
tween the top two-levels of the Polish league, and the club now
seems to be concentrating on developing its own, homegrown
players rather than joining in the investment-driven chase for
success. Surprisingly, even though Chorzow is home to Polands
national stadium, Ruch find themselves playing in a rather
run-down 10,000 - seater arena; most of which is uncovered.
The conglomeration can also boast at least another four
clubs: GKS Katowice, Polonia Bytom, Piast Gliwice and
Zagbie Sosnowiec. Three of these, Polonia Bytom, GKS
Katowice and Piast Gliwice occupy spots in the 1st divi-
sion (I liga) - which is Polands second level - and Zagbie
Sosnowiec in the regionalised 2nd division (II liga). Polonia
Bytom are very much the poor relations of Polish football
with no money, a stadium that is decrepit even by Polish
standards and an apparently bleak future.
One thing to be very aware of when attending a football
match in Poland is the host clubs relationship with their
opponents. Supporters tend to have friendships and alli-
ances with supporters of certain other clubs and at these
match-ups the atmosphere is incredibly convivial, in a way
which might strike foreign visitors as peculiar. Alternatively,
if the host is playing either one of their own or one of their
friends rivals it can be not far short of all-out warfare. For
the record, GKS Katowice and Gornik Zabrze are friends. On
the other side of the fence are Ruch Chorzow, while Piast
Gliwice and GKS Katowice dont like each other either at
all. Gornik Zabrze (and by default GKS Katowice) dont like
the Three Crowns clubs (Wisla Krakow, Slask Wroclaw and
Lechia Gdansk). Confused? Dont be. Knowing the difference
can have a major influence on your enjoyment of the day. For
those finding these relationships a little hard to understand
comfort yourself with the thought that when Legia Warsaw
come to town you wont need to consult your pocket relation-
ships book - everyone in this part of the world hates Legia.
Ruch Chorzw ul. Cicha 6,
Chorzw, tel. (+48) 32 241 75
54, www.ruchchorzow.com.pl.
Youll find the best of the tickets
in the centre of the main stand
(Trybuna Grna) which is covered.
Tickets cost 60z (65z when Lech
Pozna, Wi s a Krakw, Legi a
Warszawa or Grnikiem Zabrze come) and once again
you will need an identity card from the ticket office which
will cost you15z. Remember to bring a photo ID with you.
Matches scheduled during the li fetime of this guide
are as follows and are subject to change for television.
July 29 - August 1 - GKS Bechatw
August 12-15 - lsk Wrocaw
August 26-29 - Jagiellonia Biaystok
September 9-12 - Zagbie Lubin
September 30 - October 3 - Widzew d
October 14-17 - Legia Warszawa
October 28-31 - Polonia Warszawa
Q Ticket office Open 09:00 - 17:00, Mon 12:00 - 20:00.
Sat, Sun on match days from 09:00.
Ruch Chorzw
GKS Katowice ul. Bukowa
1 (Db), tel. (+48) 32 254 89
14. We recommend you head for
the Main Stand (Trybuna Gwna)
where tickets cost 20z if bought
i n advance or 40z on match
days. Women who buy tickets in
advance pay just 1z.
Upcoming matches are scheduled as follows:
July 23-24 - Nieciecza
July 30 - 31 - Olimpia Elblg
August 20-21 - Flota winoujcie
September 3-4 - Kolejarz Stre
September 14 - Grnik Polkowice
September 17-18 - Zawisza Bydgoszcz
October 1-2 - Arka Gdynia
October 12 - Pogo Szczecin
October 22-23 - Piast Gliwice
QThe ticket office is open on match days from 5hrs
before kick-off. You can also pick up tickets during the
week at the club shop on the 2nd floor of the stadium.
Open 09:00 - 17:00, Wed 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
GKS Katowice
Grnik Zabrze ul. Roosevelta
81, Zabrze (Centrum), tel. (+48)
32 271 49 26, www.gornikzabrze.
pl. With plans for a new stadium still to
be confirmed at press time, Gornik had
decided to sell 4 match season tickets for
the start of the season. If any of the 3,500
available places are left, the club will start
to sell match day tickets for the remaining
places. It is unknown where Gornik will play
home games from after that although a groundshare with
rivals Piast Gliwice has been mooted once that re-build
is complete. If you get the opportunity to see Gornik
at their own stadium then head for the covered stand
(Trybuna Kryta) where tickets will cost 50z (60z when
Legia Warsaw come to town). As with many stadiums in
the country you will need an identity card to buy a ticket
so it is recommended that you head to the stadium ticket
office with your passport or driving licence.
Matches scheduled during the li fetime of this guide
are as follows and are subject to change for television.
August 5-8 - Widzew d
August 19-22 - GKS Bechatw
August 26-29 - Lech Pozna
September 23-26 - Cracovia
October 21-24 - Ruch Chorzw
October 28-31 - Jagiellonia Biaystok
QOpen Mon-Fri 09:00 - 17:00. On match days Open
from 09:00.
Grnik Zabrze
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SHOPPING
71
SHOPPING
Vinoteka 13 I-3, ul. Dyrekcyjna 5-7, tel. (+48) 32
782 81 50, www.vinoteka13.pl. An elite and elaborate
selection of Italian wines, brandies, tinctures to sample and
speculate about purchasing. As an added bonus, if you are
staying at their Monopol hotel theyll give you a 10% discount.
Winiaria Burgundia C-2, ul. 3 Maja 23, tel. (+48) 32
253 75 19, www.burgundia.com.pl. A really admirable
selection of world wines for all tastes and budgets in this
shop/wine bar hidden in a courtyard near the train station.
Another location in the Altus Centre (H-3, ul. Uniwersytecka
13). QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 15:00 - 22:00.
Art & Antiques
Polands a bit possessive about its pre-war art, so if you
plan on taking anything produced before 1945 out of the
country, youll need the requisite paperworks and permis-
sions. Most proper art dealers should be able to provide
these on the spot, but check first. For non-commercial art
galleries see Culture.
Desa I-3, ul. Dworcowa 13 (entrance from ul. w. Jana),
tel. (+48) 32 253 94 70, www.desakatowice.pl. Sales
and appraisals of art, antiques, crafts, china, collectibles,
decorative items and jewellery in this classy downtown gal-
lery. Also at ul. Mariacka 5 (D-3). QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat
10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Galeria Parnas D-2, ul. Kochanowskiego 10, tel.
(+48) 32 257 03 00, www.parnas.com.pl. Modern art,
illustration, painting, sculpture, glass, yada, yada. QOpen
11:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Galerie ZPAP D-3, ul. Dworcowa 13, tel. (+48) 32 253
93 43, www.zpap.org.pl. This gallery of the Association of
Polish Artists and Designers (ZPAP) - an organisation dating
back to 1911 and representing some 8,500 professional
visual artists nationwide - offers modern, contemporary
painting, illustration and sculpture. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00,
Karabela C-2, ul. Stawowa 5, tel. (+48) 32 258 98 83,
www.antyki.katowice.pl. These knowledgable antiques
dealers specialise in paintings, furniture, jewellery, clocks, silver,
glass and ceramics, old military equipment, old photographs
and books. Very professional, and they even speak English and
German. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Books, Music & Film
EMPiK C-2, ul. Piotra Skargi 6 (Supersam), tel. (+48)
32 203 72 02, www.empik.com. The best place down-
town for English language paperbacks, guide books, a few for-
eign newspapers and a decent range of CDs and DVDs. Also
a branch inside the Silesia City Center and Trzy Stawy (see
Shopping Malls). QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
Komis Pytowy C-2, ul. 3 Maja 38, tel. (+48) 32 253
99 45. The largest selection of vinyl weve ever seen in PL is
hidden in this courtyard off one of Katowices main streets.
Bargain-priced, though not extremely well-organised used
CDs, as well as music-related DVDs, posters, shirts, stick-
ers and patches. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30, Sat 10:00 - 13:30.
Closed Sun.
Fashion & Accessories
International designer clothing and fashion brands can be
found in Katowices shopping malls, namely the peerless
Silesia City Centre (F-1). High quality Polish brands to peel
an eye for include Reserved, Vistula, Tatuum and Carry. On
the opposite end of the spectrum, you should find no trouble
locating secondhand clothing stores around the city, ranging
from self-respecting retailers to those who offer a room of
rummage bins; just look for the words Tanie Odziez. Finally,
the clothing market around Plac Synagogi on ul. Mickie-
wicza (H-2) is a great place to get stockings with runs in them
and underwear stretched and displayed on a steering wheel.
Cuda Na Kiju D-3, ul. w. Stanisawa 5, tel. (+48)
693 10 01 61, www.cudanakiju.com. One of Kato-
wi ces most uni que gal l eri es and enj oyabl e browsi ng
opportunities, this small independent shop is overflowing
with hand-made jewellery, accessories and some home
decor items. Inspired by Polish folk patterns, almost ev-
erything on hand is made from natural materials. QOpen
10:00 - 17:00, Mon 10:00 - 18:00, Wed 09:00 - 18:00,
Non-EU resi dents can cl ai m VAT
refunds on purchases made in shops
bearing the Global Blue logo. The
only condition is a minimum outlay
of 200z on your part on the item
purchased. Claim your Tax Refund
Cheque, have it stamped at customs
before claiming your money back at
your nearest Global Blue Customer
Service. For full details check www.global-blue.com.
TAX FREE SHOPPING - GLOBAL BLUE
What little shopping opportunities there are to be found in
Katowice are mostly located in the area immediately north
of the train station. Like most of 21st-century Poland, many
shops are given over to the sale of womens fashion, with
more interesting independent enterprises in seriously short
supply. In lieu of the small, communist-era malls around the
Rynek, Katowices best collection of shops under one roof is
the extraordinary Silesia City Center; if you cant find what
youre looking for there, then you might have to leave PL to
get it. That aside, weve made an effort through this section
to focus on small local or national businesses you wont find
wherever youre from.
Alcohol
Nothing says Ive been to Poland like a suitcase of booze
and an increased alcohol tolerance. Indeed, if retracing your
activities while in Katowice you may have to concede that
alcohol makes the most logical memento. While Polish beer
elicits mixed reports from the foreign community, Pol-
ish vodka stands alongside the best, and the country
is rightfully seen as the ancient home of the wicked
sauce. Belvedere and Chopin are the elite brands youll
find in fancy gi ft sets, but dont miss ubrwka (bison
grass vodka), Krupnik (herbal honey vodka), odkowa
Gorzka (bitter stomach vodka) and Goldwasser with its
signature gold flakes.
Centrum Wina A-1, ul. Chorzowska 107 (Silesia City
Center), tel. (+48) 32 605 09 34, www.centrumwina.
com.pl. Traditional Polish vodka, mead and other high-
octane drinks made from natural ingredients, aged in oak
barrels and sold to you in fancy packages. QOpen 10:00
- 21:00, Fri 10:00 - 22:00.
Biaystok, Bydgoszcz, Czstochowa, Gdask, Gdynia, Katowice, Krakw,
Pozna, Szczecin, Warszawa, Wrocaw
ProducedanddistributedbyT.R.S. EvolutionSpa- Ph. +39059421511- Polska: TRSPolskaSp. zo.o., Ph. 0226366016- www.trussardi.com
72
SHOPPING
73
DIRECTORY
24-hour Pharmacies
Apteka Akademicka ul. Tysiclecia 41 (Osiedle
Tysiclecia), tel. (+48) 32 254 05 21, www.apteka-
leki.com.
Apteka Blisko Ciebie C-2, ul. Mickiewicza 10, tel.
(+48) 32 258 11 11.
Apteka Europejska D-3, ul. Wojewdzka 7, tel. (+48)
32 251 77 62.
Consulates & Embassies
Latvia ul. Kolejowa 54 (Ochojec), tel. (+48) 32 253
89 85.
Lithuania ul. Rolna 43b (Brynw), tel. (+48) 32 258
86 96.
Slovakia M-3, ul. Rynek 6, Gliwice, tel. (+48) 32
257 06 00.
Slovenia ul. Mikoowska 29, Mysowice, tel. (+48) 604
20 10 00, www.konsulat-slowenia.com.pl.
United Kingdom E-1, ul. PCK 10/4, tel. (+48) 32 206
98 01, www.britishembassy.pl.
Places of Worship
Augsberg Evangelical Lords Resurrection
Church (Koci Ewangelicko-Augsburski) C-3,
ul. Warszawska 18, tel. (+48) 32 253 99 81, www.
luteranie.pl. Q Services on Sundays at 10:00 and 19:00.
Jewish Community (Spoeczno ydowska) C-2,
ul. 3 Maja 16, tel. (+48) 32 253 77 42. Q Services every
Saturday. Call for meeting details.
Private Clinics
Inter-Med ul. Grabowa 32 (Bogucice), tel. (+48) 32
253 61 98, www.inter-med.pl.
LUX MED B-2, ul. Sokolska 29, tel. (+48) 22 332 28
88, www.luxmed.pl.
Sad-Med C-3, ul. Teatralna 9, tel. (+48) 32 782 40
40, www.sadmed.com.pl.
Real Estate
Broker D-3, ul. Dyrekcyjna 6/3, tel. (+48) 32 203 75
95, www.broker-net.pl.
Ober-Haus Real Estate Advisors D-2, ul. Kopernika
4, tel. (+48) 32 609 00 90, www.ober-haus.pl. Long
established experts in residential, office, logistics and retail
real estate, both in Poland and the Baltics. Founded in 1994
the database includes all types of large and small flats, luxury
suites, houses and villas.
PIK D-2, ul. Kociuszki 26/7, tel. (+48) 32 781 95 82,
www.pik.slask.pl.
Prolokum C-1, ul. Dbrwki 13, tel. (+48) 32 781 09
99, www.prolokum.pl.
Translators & Interpreters
Ekspert A-1, ul. Johna Baildona 16/2, tel. (+48) 500
26 56 78.
Eurobusiness - Haller ul. Obroki 133, tel. (+48) 32
355 38 01, www.haller.pl.
Groy C-2, ul. 1 Maja 9, tel. (+48) 32 352 10 01, www.
groy.pl.
Tru Trussardi A-1, ul. Chorzowska 107 (Silesia City Cen-
ter), tel. (+48) 32 605 04 51, www.trussardi.it. The modern
Italian-led, urban fashion range is now present in Poland. Elegant
but casual clothing for men and women designed for the modern
day where it is typical to move from business function to private
meeting and back. QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Fri 10:00 - 22:00.
Gifts & Souvenirs
Anwa D-3, ul. Kochanowskiego 2, tel. (+48) 32 251 39
23. Local hand-made glass and ceramics. QOpen 10:00 -
18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
BGH Network ul. Porcelanowa 23, tel. (+48) 32 730
39 16, www.bghnetwork.pl. On the site of the now sadly
defunct Silesian Porcelain factory - which until recently had
been in constant operation since 1924 - this shop sells a wide
range of high-quality dinner sets in classic and contemporary
designs, including sets adorned with famous Polish paintings
from the collection of Krakws National Museum. Purchases
can also be made through the online shop. QOpen 09:00 -
17:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Cepelia C-3, Al. Korfantego 6, tel. (+48) 32 259 87 44,
www.cepelia.pl. A larger than average version of the national
folk art chain selling a range of related arts and crafts from
kitsch to quintessential including some fine tapestries, wood
carvings and even complete folk costumes for both men and
women. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Ceramika Bolesawiecka C-3, ul. Dyrekcyjna 4, tel.
(+48) 32 350 20 99, www.ceramicboleslawiec.com.
pl. This wonderful shop offers a great selection of Polands
famous Bolesawiec folk ceramic. If youre in need of a fool-
proof gift from Poland, you really cant go wrong here. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Markets
Clothing Market C-2, Plac Synagogi. This outdoor
market running along the right hand side of ul. Mickiewicza
towards ul. Stawowa is a great place to acquire the styles
of yesteryear at suitably bargain prices. With most of the
vendors peddling clothing, particularly stretched out stock-
ings, padded bras and faded blouses, here youll also find a
row of produce vendors (along ul. Stawowa), some random
baked goods and cheap perfume beneath the blue and
white striped tents.
Targowisko Miejskie D-2, Pl. Miarki, tel. (+48) 32
250 40 08, www.ztm.katowice.pl. You havent really
experienced Poland until youve smelt the unique fragrance
of fruit, vegetables, fish and Chinese cotton that make up
the main things for sale in a classic outdoor Polish market.
This small market south of the train tracks comes with
red and white striped awnings and a good selection of the
aforementioned things for sale at bargain prices. QOpen
06:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Sweets
Wawel C-3, ul. Warszawska 1, tel. (+48) 32 253 68
82, www.wawel.com.pl. Krakws famous chocolate
merchants have a shop in most towns including Katowice.
Churning out confectionary since 1898, specialties include
Mieszanka Krakowska, Kasztanki, Krwka, Malaga and
more. Premium hot chocolate and coffee can be drank on site
and the smells and colours alone are worth a visit if you lost
your sweet tooth in a freak accident. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00,
Changing money is increasingly less fretful to do, but
as with most international destinations it is still worth
keeping checking rates particularly at entry points such
as airports or in major tourist areas. We check rates of
a selection of money exchange offices (kantors) every
four months. Here were their buying rates (how many
zloty you would get for one unit of foreign currency) for
the 21.06.11 compared to the following National Bank
of Poland (NBP) published rates for that morning of
Euro 1 = 3.9848z, US$1 = 2.7776z, GBP 1 = 4.4983z.
Fifty-Fifty C-3, ul. Mickiewicza 6, tel. (+48) 32
258 44 04.
1 Euro = 3.89z,
1 Dollar = 2.70z,
1 Pound = 4.40z,
No commission.
Kantor Wymiany Walut Airport ul. Wolnoci 90,
Pyrzowice (Airport), tel. (+48) 784 04 14 88, www.
kantor.info.pl.
1 Euro = 3.88z,
1 Dollar = 2.72z,
1 Pound = 4.40z,
No commission.
Max Kantor C-2, ul. Stawowa 10, tel. (+48) 32
206 97 59.
1 Euro = 3.89z,
1 Dollar = 2.77z,
1 Pound = 4.40z,
No commission.
Currency exchange
Whats going on
in Poland?
Get a round-up of the
major Polish news, business,
entertainment and sports
in English each week by
subscribing free to our PDF.
Visit us at
www.newpolandexpress.pl
Altus C-3, ul. Uniwersytecka 13, tel. (+48) 32 350 50
50, www.altus.katowice.pl. Katowices most majestic
modern marvel has to be the Altus, which at 27 stories and
125 metres tall is not only the tallest building in Katowice,
but all of southern PL. A thoroughly unique culture, enter-
tainment, business and retail centre all contained in one
glittering package, within Altus 69,000 square metres youll
find a diverse range of ways to spend a typically dreary day
in Silesia; in fact, with one of the best hotels in town (Qubus)
occupying the upper floors, its conceivable you could spend
your entire trip to Kato within the Altus confines.
Home to a cinema (Helios), fitness centre, casino, atrium
gallery and several fine restaurants (Via Toscana, Kyoto
Sushi), Altus also contains a plethora of retail boutiques
and salons (including an Apple Macintosh service store),
banks, cafes and a rooftop bar with views of that incred-
ible city youll be perfectly content to miss. The complex
is so vast they even have superfluous space leftover
for offices and conference facilities. Serviced by an
underground parking lot with 566 spaces, theres even
a car wash. Now thats thorough. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Galeria Skarbek C-3, ul. Mickiewicza 4, tel. (+48) 32
253 70 70, www.spolem.katowice.pl. The dizzying heights
of modernity when it was opened in 1975, Skarbek is (along
with Zenit) one of two communist-era shopping centres on
Katowices Rynek, and features two fantastic glass elevators
which run the breadth of the buildings facade. The good news
is you dont have to step inside the bowels of the building to zip
up to the top and down again, and though its not exactly a great
view, you gotta get your kicks in this town somehow. Should
you venture inside, youll find a very dated commercial space
selling cheap clothes for men and women on the first floor, with
cosmetics, household items, toys and school supplies on level
two. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
Pasa Monopol D-3, ul. Dyrekcyjna 5-7. The only
Likus Concept Store in the region, Pasa Monopol offers
high-class boutique brands inside the refined interior of the
five-star Hotel Monopol. Exclusive signature stores include
Vinoteka 13 - bringing you high quality wine from Italy,
while within the arcades youll find known designer brands
like Diesel, Versace and Dono da Scheggia. Theres also
Marella, Lanora, Olsen and beauty treatments at Face-
2Face hairdresser. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Sun.
Silesia City Center A-1, ul. Chorzowska 107, tel.
(+48) 32 605 00 00, www.silesiacitycenter.com.pl.
Located mid-way between Katowice and Chorzw on the site
of an old 1904 coal mine, the spectacular Silesia City Center
easily trumps everything else in the region. A combined
retail, gourmet and entertainment complex, the 65,000
metre-square building was opened in 2005 and is designed
to blend in with the surrounding Gothic architecture, which
it does rather smoothly. With 250 shops including Tesco,
Saturn and EMPiK superstores, SSC is a decent place to
eat as well thanks to the upstairs Bierhalle restaurant and
Hana - a magnificent sushi restaurant located externally in
the mines former swimming pool. Theres entertainment too,
in the guise of the Cinema City cinema, and a Pure Fitness
club too. Other features include the preserved, red brick St
Barbaras Chapel and the remains of the tower that once
lowered the miners underground - now the symbol of the
commercial centre. Get there via tram number 6 from the
Rynek (C-3), tram 19 from Pl. Miarki (D-2) or tram 11 from Plac
Wolnoci (A-1/2). QOpen 10:00 - 21:00, Fri 10:00 - 22:00.
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Q
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Diament
Economy
B
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Diament
Silvia
Dom
Klasyka
80
STREET REGISTER
81
STREET REGISTER
1 Maja D-5
3 Maja C-2/3
Al. Grnolska F-1/4/G-5
Al. Korfantego A/B/C-3
Al. Rodzieskiego
B-3/C-4/5
Alpejska G-4
Andrzeja D-2
Astrw F-2
Bankowa C-4
Barbary E/F-1
Bazaltowa G-2
Boczyka A-5
Bratkw F-2
Broniewskiego A-3
Brzozowa A-4
Ceglana G-1/2/3
Chopina C-2
Chorzowska A-1/B-1/2/3
Cicha A-1
Czempiela E-2
Czerwiskiego B-3
Damrota D/E/F-4
Dbrowskiego D-3
Dbrwki C-1
Duga D-5
Duskiego E-1
Dobra A-1
Drezewna D-5
Drzymay D/E-2
Dunikowskiego A-1
Dworcowa D-3
Dyrekcyjna C/D-3
Fiokw F-1/2
Floriana D-5
Francuska D-4/E/F/G-3
gen Zajczka E/F-1
Gliwicka C-1
Gowackiego E-1
Grna A-5
Grnicza F-1/2/3/4/G-5
Grabonia B-5
Graniczna D-5/E-4/F-4/5
Grayskiego A-2/B-2/3
Grundmanna B/C-1
Hercena F-1
Jagielloska E-3
Jana III Sobieskiego C-1/2
Jasna A-1
Jordana E-1/2
Kamienna D-1
Karbowa F-4
Karoliny A-5
Katowicka A-4
Kiliskiego E-1
Klonowa A-4
Kobyliskiego D-3
Kochanowskiego D-2
Konckiego E-2
Konopnickiej D-2
Kopalniana C-5
Kopernika D-1/2
Kordeckiego D-2
Kociuszki E-2/F/G-1
Kowalska B-5
Kozielska D-1
Krahelskiej D-5
Akademicka N/O-3/4
Arkoska N-4
Banacha O-3/4
Bankowa M-3
w. Barbary N-2/3
Barlickiego N-2
Basztowa M-3
Bednarska M-3
Berbeckiego, gen. M/N-2
Biaej Bramy M-3
Bohaterw Getta
Warszawskiego N/O-1/2
Bolesawa Krzywoustego
N/O-3/4
Bytomska M-3
Chudoby N-2
Czstochowska O-2/3
Dolnych Waw M-2/3
Dubois M/N/O-1/2
Dunikowskiego N-3
Dworcowa N/O-2/3
Fredry N/O-1/2
Gorzoki O-3
Grnych Waw M-3
Grodowa M-3
Gruszczyskiego M-2
pl. Inwalidw Wojennych M-3
Jagielloska O-2
Jana Pawa II M-3/4
Kaczyniec M-3
w. Katarzyny O-2
1 Maja P/R-3
3 Maja R/S-2/3/4
al. Bohaterw Monte
Cassino S-4
al. Korfantego P-1/2
Armii Krajowej S/P-3
Bankowa S-3
Boboli S-2
Bohaterw Warszawskich
R/S-3
Bolesawa miaego P-4
Bracka P-4
Brodziskiego P/R-3/4
Broniewskiego S-3/4
Brysza S-3
Brzozowa P-1
Brzski P/R-3/4
Buchenwaldczykw R-3
Bytomska S-1
Chemoskiego P-1
Chodkiewicza P/R-4
Cieszyska P-1
Cmentarna S-2
Dbrowskiego R-1
Dembowskiego S-4
Domaskiego P-4
Dubiela P-1/2
Dworcowa S-2
Dyboskiego S-3
Fabryczna P-3
gen. De Gaullea P/R-2/3/4
Goethego R-2
Krasiskiego D-4/5
Kraszewskiego A-5
Krta B-5
Krlowej Jadwigi E-3
Krzemienna G-3
Krzywa D-2
ks. P. ciegiennego A-1
Leopolda A-5
Ligonia E-2/3
Lompy D/E/F-3
Lotnisko G-4/5
Ludwika A-5
Mariacka D-3/4
Mariacka Tylna D-3
Marii Curie-Skodowskiej
E-1/2
Markiefki A/B-5
Miarki D-5
Mickiewicza B-1/C-2/3
Mielckiego D-3
Mieroszewskiego A-5
Mikoowska D/E-1
Misjonarzy Oblatw MN
A-2/3
Myska C-2/3
Modrzewiowa A-4
Moniuszki C-3/4
Morcinka A-2/3
Morwowa A-4
Nadgrnikw B-5
Narcyzw E/F-2
Normy A-5
Nowograniczna C-5
Ofiar Katynia F/G-5
Okrzei A-2/3
Olimpijska B-3/4
Opolska C-1/2
Ordona A-3/4
Paderewskiego D/E/F-5
PCK E-1/2
Piastowska C-3
Pilotw F-4
Piotra B-5
Pl. Andrzeja D-2
Pl. Bolesawa Chrobrego D-3
Pl. Budnioka B-2
Pl. Grunwaldzki A-3
Pl. Gwarkw A-3
Pl. kard. A. Hlonda E-1
Pl. Matejki C/D-1
Pl. Miarki D-2
Pl. Obrocw Katowic C-3
Pl. Oddz. Modziey
Powstaczej D-2
Pl. Rostka D-1
Pl. Sejmu lskiego E-3
Pl. Synagogi C-2
Pl. Szewczyka C-2
Pl. W. Wajdy A-5
Pl. Wolnoci C-1/2
Plebiscytowa D-3/E/F-2
Pocztowa D-3
Podchorych E-2
Podgrna D-3
Polna F-3
Poniatowskiego E-1
Porfirowa G-2
Kaszubska O-3/4
Kodnicka N-2/3
Kochanowskiego M-4
Kolberga O-1
Konarskiego O-3
Konopnickiej M-2
Kocielna M-3
pl. Krakowski N-3
Krlowej Bony M-3/4
Krtka M-3
Krupnicza M-3
Kujawska O-4
Lutycka N-4
uycka N/O-4
Matejki M-3
Marzanki M-4
Mastalerza O-1
Mielckiego M-3/4
pl. Mickiewicza M-3
Mikoowska M-3/4
Mitrgi O-2
Mleczna M-3
pl. Mleczny M-3
Myska M-2
Moniuszki O-2/3
Na Piasku O-2
Nasyp O-2
Nowy wiat M-4
Obotrycka M/N-4
Okopowa O-2
Orlickiego M-2
Gry w. Anny R-2
Jagielloska R-1/2
Jana Sobieskiego P-3/4
Kamienna S-4
Karowicza S-3
Klimasa S-3
Klonowa R-4
Kobyliskiego R-3
Kochanowskiego P-1
Kotaja P-1
Kowalska R-2
Kolika R-1
Krakusa S-2
Krasiskiego R/S-3
Krlewska P/R-3
ks. Londzina R-1
Kupki R-3
Lutra S-3
Malczewskiego P-3
Mehoffera R-3
Mczennikw Majdanka P-1
Miarki R-2
Michaa Archanioa P-4
Mikulczycka R-1
Narutowicza P/R-3
Niedziakowskiego R-1
Nocznickiego P-1
Opolska S-4
Orkana P-4
Padlewskiego S-3
Panieskie Skay P-4
Piastowska S-2
Powstacw E-2/3/4
Prosta D-4
Prowansalska G-4/5
Przemysowa D-4
Puaskiego D/E/F/G-5
Reja D-5
Rejtana D-5
Reymonta D/E/F-3
Rodaska G-4
Rwnolega D-5
Rana F-2
Rybnicka E-3
Rymera E-2
Rynek C-3
Sabaudzka G-4
Sdowa C/D-1
Sienkiewicza E/F-3
Sikorskiego E-5
Skalna E-1
Skargi C-2
Skowroskiego D-5
Sowackiego C/D-2
Sokolska A-3/B/C-2
Sowiskiego F-4
Stalmacha E-1
Staromiejska D-3
Starowiejska D-3/4
Stawowa C-2
Stefana Batorego D-2
Stlickiego A-1/2/B-1
Strzelecka D/E-1
pl. Piastw O-2
Piramowicza O-3
Piwna O-2
pl. marsz. Pisudskiego M-2
Plebaska M-3
Pod Murami M-3
Powstacw Warszawy M-2
al. Przyjani N-2
Pszczyska M/N-4
Raciborska M-3
Rybnicka M-4
Rynek M-3
pl. Rzeniczy M-2/3
Sienkiewicza M/N-1/2
Skadowa N-1
Skodowskiej-Curie O-4
Sobtki M-4
Stalmacha M-4
Strzody N-3
Studzienna M-2/3
Szkolna M-3
rednia M-3
Pilicha P-3
pl. Dworcowy S-2
pl. Kazimierza Wielkiego P-1
pl. Krakowski S-3
pl. ks. Pieruszki S-3
pl. Teatralny R-1
pl. Traugutta R-2
pl. Warszawski S-3
pl. Wolnoci S-2
Podgrna P-2
Popiecha S-3/4
Powstacw lskich
R/S-1/2
Przelotowa P-4
Przerwy-Tetmajera P-4
Puaskiego R-2
Reymonta P/R/S-4
Roosvelta P/R/S-4
Rana R-2
Raskiego P-4
Sdowa R/S-4
Siedleckiego S-1/2
Sienkiewicza S-4
Sierotki P/R-4
Skoczylasa R-1
Sodczyka R-2
Spichrzowa R/S-4
Spokojna P-1
Stalmacha S-2
Staromiejska P-2
Staszica R-1
Stefana Batorego S-4
Stwosza E/F/G-2
Styczyskiego D-2
Szafranka D-4
Szeligiewicza E-2
Szkolna C-3
Szmausa F-1
Sztygarska B-5
Szybowcowa G-4
cigay A/B-5
w. Jacka D-4
w. Jana D-3
w. Pawa C/D-1
w. Stanisawa D-3
Teatralna C-3
Topolowa A-3/4
Uniwersytecka C-3/4
Wajdy A-5
Warszawska C-3/D-4/5
Wawelska C-2
Wizowa A-4/5
Widok A-1/2
Wierzbowa A-4
Wilimowskiego D-1
Wodna C/D-4
Wojewdzka D-3/4
Wrbewskiego A-5
Zabrska C-1/2
Zacisze D-4
elazna B-1
ogay B-5
wirki i Wigury D-1/E-2
witojaska O-1
Tarnogrska O-1/2
Tkacka M-3
Toszecka N-1
Udzieli O-1
Warszawska N-1
Witkiewicza O-1
Wodna M-3
Wrocawska N-3/4
pl. Wszystkich witych M-3
Wybrzee Armii Krajowej
M/N-1/2
Wybrzee Wojska Polskiego
M/N-1/2
Wysoka M-3
Wyszyskiego, kard.
M/N-2/3
Ziemowita, ks. M-3/4
Zimnej Wody O-3
Zwycistwa M/N/O-2/3
Zygmunta Starego M-3
Szczepaniakowej P-4
Szcz Boe R-3
Szenwalda S-4
Szramka S-4
Szymanowskiego R-3
lska S-2
rednia S-2
w. Barbary R-2
w. Cecylii S-4
w. Floriana S-3
w. Jerzego S-3
w. Marcina S-4
w. Urbana S-4
wierkowa P-4
Targowa S-3
Topolowa P-1
Torowa P-2
Tuwima R/S-4
Wajdy P-2
Wallek-Walewskiego R-3/4
Wandy S-2/3
Wska S-4
Widery R-1
Wadysawa Jagiey S-4
Wadysawa okietka P-4
Wolnoci P/R/S-2/3
Wonicy R-1
Wyczkowskiego R/S-4
Wyzwolenia R-2
Zgody R-1
Katowice (pg. 66-67) Gliwice (pg. 69)
Zabrze (pg. 70)
Al. Harcerska K-6/7/L-6
Al. Wycieczkowa I-7
Astrw L-3
Bankowa J-2
Bolesawa Chrobrego J-1
bpa Krasickiego J-2/3/K-3
Chopina J-2/3
Cmentarna L-1
Dbowa L-4
dra Rostka H/I-1
Drzymay K-1
Dworcowa H-1
Dzieronia K-4
Faski H/I-2
Gajowa I-4
Gaeczki K/L-3
gen. Dbrowskiego
I-2/J-1/2/K-1
Grna I/J-1
Jagielloska I-1/2
Jana Sobieskiego J-1-2
Karpiskiego I/J-3/4
Kaszubska J-3/4
Katowicka
H-2/I/2/3/J-3/K-3/4/L-4/5
Kazimierza Wielkiego H/I-1
bpa Bogedaina H/I-3
Kiliskiego J/K-2
Konopnickiej I-3/4
Kopernika J-2
Kociuszki
H-3/4/H6/I-4/5/6
Krzywa J-1/K-1/2/L-1/2
Lwowska I-5/J-3/4/5
Modzieowa K/L-3/4
Moniuszki H-2/3
Mocickiego J/K-5
Paderewskiego J/K-4
Parkowa I/J-5/6/K/L-6
Pl. AKS K/L-4/5
Pl. Dworcowy H-1
Pl. Hutnikw I-2/3
Pl. Kopernika J/K-1
Pl. Matejki J-2
Pocztowa H-1/2
Pogodna I/J-4
Poniatowskiego
H/I-3/4/J/K-4
Powstacw I-1/2/J-1
Rejtana H-7
Roosevelta I/J-4
Rana L-2
Rycerska I-6
Rynek H/I-2
Sienkiewicza I-1
Sowiaska H/I-6/7
Starego Zdroju K-1/2
Szabatowskiego I-2/3
Urbanowicza L-1
Willowa L-1/2
Wolnoci H-1/2/I/J-1
Wybickiego J-4/5
Zjednoczenia J/K-1/2
wirki i Wigury L-2
Chorzw (pg. 68)
Gliwice photo by Lestat
82
INDEX OF KATOWICE LISTINGS
angelo Hotel Katowice 20
Arsenal Palace 20
Best Western Premier
Katowice Hotel 21
Blues Hotel 23
Campanile 23
DeSilva Inn Katowice Airport 23
Diament Economy Gliwice 23
Diament Katowice 21
Diament Plaza Gliwice 21
Diament Zabrze 23
Etap Katowice 25
Euro Residence 25
Hotel Bella Notte 23
Hotel Rycerski 24
Hotel Szafran 24
Ibis Katowice - Zabrze 24
Jopi Hostel 25
Katowice 25
Monopol 20
Novotel Katowice Centrum 21
Orodek Konferencyjno-
Szkoleniowy 'INNOWACJA' 25
Paac Saturna 22
Park Hotel Diament 22
Quality System Hotel Katowice
24
Qubus Hotel 22
Qubus Prestige 22
Royal 22
Senator 24
Sleep City 25
Willa Ambasador 25
A Dong 26
Akolada 29
Bar Pod Sidemka 36
Bar Uniwersalny 37
Bierhalle 29
Bohema 29
Bombaj Tandoori 28
Bryka 36
Buddha 29
Camelot 30
C'est Si Bon 28
Cinnamon 30
City Rock 26
Cristallo 34
Dworcowy 37
Europa 28
Europa 37
Fanaberia 38
Fantasmagoria 26
Felicidad 30
Fenix 30
Gazdwka 37
Grill Bar 31
Gwarek 31
Hana Sushi 35
Hellas 28
Hobu 35
Chata z Zalipia 36
Kamienny Kasztel 31
KFC 28
Kyoto Sushi 35
La Grotta 34
Labirynt 31
Little Hanoi...and more! 38
Lorneta z Meduz 28
McDonald's 28
Narada Sushi Club 35
Oko Miasta 31
Pan de Rossa 31
Patio 32
Patio Park 32
Pizza Hut 28
Pod Starym Drzewem 34
Pub-Restauracja Za Kulisami
32
Restauracja Bergamo 32
Restauracja Bonaparte 32
Restauracja Monopol 37
Rycerski 37
Secesja 33
Sekrety Tajlandii 38
Sicilia 35
Skarbek 37
Sphinx 36
Stara Szkoa 33
Stek House Dada 33
Supernova 33
Sushi Arigato 36
Szafranowy Dwr 33
Tad Mahal 29
Tatiana 34
U Babuni 37
Vena 37
Via Toscana 35
Wiejska Chatka 38
WunderBAR 28
Zaklty Czardasz 28
Zakonnicy 38
Zaks 34
Zoty Osio 38
Zoty Rg 28
Artystyczna 39
Caffe Bar N57 39
Caffeine Caf 39
Chopin Frykasy Fryderyka 39
Fanaberia 39
Gaudi 39
Kawiarnia Wawelska 39
Monopol 39
Nugat 39
o'joj 39
Archibar 40
Bellmer Caf 40
Bierhalle 48
BOB 40
Caf Europa 44
Cafe Zaszyta 40
Carpe Diem 40
City Pub 41
Cocktail Bar 41
Cotton Club 44
Czekolada 44
Flow 44
Genesis Music &Dance Club 44
Geneza Jazz & Blues Club 41
Goa Club 41
Gugalander 41
Gwarek 44
Hemingway 41
Hipnoza Jazz Club 47
Iglo Kawiarenka 42
Ilujza Jazz Club 47
Inqbator 44
Klub Pomaracza 45
Klubokawiarnia PRL 45
Kredens 42
Kultowa 42
Kwadraty 45
La Passion du Vin 48
Lemoniada 45
London Pub 42
Longman Club 42
Maspalomas 45
Mega Club 46
Milk 46
Negresco 42
Oko Miasta 46
Poziom 3 46
Pub Gramofon 42
Pub ciana 42
Queens 48
Red Pub 42
Selekcja 46
Sky Bar 42
lski Jazz Club 47
Sofa Club 47
Spencer Pub 42
Spi 48
ruba i Przyjaciele 43
Stary Port 43
Trendy Club 47
Warka Piwiarnia 43
Winiaria Burgundia 48
Wcieky Pies 43
WunderBAR 43
Za Drzwiami 43
rdo 47
Basic data 13
Currency exchange 73
Czeslaw Milosz 38
Disaster in Smolensk 40
Eyesores or Masterpieces 57
Gierek 46
Gierowka 47
GKS Katowice 68
Grnik Zabrze 69
Guido Mineshaft 60
In defence of Katowice 56
Jewish Katowice 55
Language Smarts 15
Local Heroes 45
Mail & Phones 14
Market Values 14
Milk Bars 37
National holidays 15
Polish food 36
Polish Vodka 48
Quick Currency Convertor 15
Quick Eats 28
Ruch Chorzw 69
Silesian Breweries 58
Silesian Grub 26
Smoking 43
Stalinogrod 34
The train station 10
Tipping Tribulations 26
Workers Paradise 6
Wujek 39
Features Index
WHERE TO STAY
RESTAURANTS
CAFS
NIGHTLIFE
P Air conditioning A Credit cards accepted
O Casino H Conference facilities
T Child friendl y U Facilities for the disabled
R Internet L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre G No smoking
K Restaurant X Smoking room available
D Sauna C Swimming pool
E Live music W Wi-Fi
6 Animal friendl y S Take away
I Fireplace J Old Town location
Y Tourist Card accepted V Home delivery
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