Krakow in Your Pocket

Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels
Krakw
No. 99, April - May 2016
No. 99 - 5z
inyourpocket.com
Contents
Feature
Niepoomice
Arrival & Transport
10
City Basics
16
18
Basic History
Jewish Ghetto
Nowa Huta
98
100
Further Afield
Wieliczka
104
Auschwitz
107
Tarnw 110
Culture & Events 20
Leisure
114
Restaurants
Shopping
118
Directory
124
Hotels
126
Polish Food
28
46
Cafs
56
Nightlife
58
64
Kazimierz Nightlife
Sightseeing
The Royal Route
Old Town
Wawel
Kazimierz
Podgrze
66
68
70
84
88
94
Maps & Index

Tram Map
Nowa Huta Map
City Map
City Centre Map
Street Index
Listings Index
Features Index
Climb up Krakus Mound (p.96) - the citys most ancient site - for fantastic views of the citys spires (and smog).
facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
132
135
136
139
140
141
142
Photo by Grzegorz Ziemianski
April - May 2016
Foreword
Few cities emerge from their winter hangover as exuberant
as Krakw, where all over Polands cultural capital at this
very moment the beer garden umbrellas (p.65) are in full
bloom, the pigeons are cooing and mounting each other,
couples are petting in the Planty (p.79) or picnicking on the
Wisa riverbanks, while street performers play merry music
in public squares, or stand motionless in silent protest of
the clownish antics of costumed tourists. Yes, Krakw has its
spring buzz on in a big way and theres no better time to be
here than the season of rising temperatures and hemlines.
Springs arrival also brings with it start of Krakws high
festival season, so check our Events section (p.20) to see
whats going on while youre in town. Though most visitors
to Krakw dont get past exploring the highest density of
bars and cafes in the world (actually most of us who live
here havent gotten past them either, in fact some of us
sit around in sunlight beer gardens like its our job...wait
a minute), the entire region of Maopolska is full of highly
unique and historical places to explore, as weve dutifully
highlighted in this issues feature on nearby Niepoomice
(p. 6).
Publisher
IYP City Guides Sp. z o.o. Sp.k.
ul. Sawkowska 12, 31-014 Krakw
krakow@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
Company Office & Accounts
General Manager: Magorzata Drzszcz, 606 749 676
Accountant: Joanna Szlosowska, 882 079 716
Circulation
20,000 copies published every two months
Editorial
Writer & Editor: Garrett Van Reed; Researchers: Oliwia Hojan,
Anna bikowska; Layout: Tom Haman; Events: Maria Rulaff,
Janina Krzysiak; Photography: All photographs In Your Pocket
unless otherwise stated; Cover Jrg Hackemann | Dollar
Photo Club
Sales & Circulation
Krakw/Katowice/Tarnw Manager:
Monika Szymanek 668 876 351
Warsaw Manager: Klaudia Briss 606 749 643
Wrocaw/Pozna Manager: Agata Urbanowicz 606 749 642
Gdansk/d Manager: Bartosz Matyjas 784 966 824
While the excitement of the new season is palpable, for us

at IYP its still business as usual producing the best guide
to Krakw on the market (ahem). As if a meticulously
updated print guide and exhaustively thorough web portal
werent enough, weve recently released a new mobile
application that highlights the best the city has to offer;
its free and you can learn more about it below, including
where to download it so you toss this cumbersome
tome in the trash (just kidding, please dont, wed cry).
As always, let us know what you think about what were
doing on Facebook (/KrakowInYourPocket), and also about
the places you visited by leaving your comments on our
website krakow.inyourpocket.com. Enjoy Krakw.
Copyright Notice & Editors Note

Text, maps and photos copyright WIYP Sp. Z o.o., IYP City
Guides Sp. Z o.o. Sp.k. Maps copyright Agencja Reklamowa POD
ANIOLEM. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be
reproduced in any form without written permission from the
copyright owner. The brand name In Your Pocket is used under
license from UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania
tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent
from paid-for advertising. We have made every effort to
ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.
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4 Krakw In Your Pocket
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Feature 1
Royal Retreat
Known throughout its history as the Second Wawel, the courtyard of the Royal
Castle in Niepoomice bears a striking resemblance to that of its counterpart.
However, it was more than looks that made Niepoomice the Second Wawel the Polish kings spent a suspicious amount of time here, escaping the official
royal seat in Krakw to blow off steam pursuing wild beasts in Niepoomice
Forest and entertaining guests with goblets of mead and hunks of fresh meat.
Once youve surveyed Krakws Royal Route (p.68) and Wawel Hill (p.84), why
not visit the old monarchys favourite getaway?
Niepoomice
If youve had a flip through this guide, you may have
noticed that theres quite a bounty of things to do here in
Maopolska. And with our commitment to compounding
your tourist checklist, were happy to bring you yet another
worthwhile destination - Niepoomice. Lying just east of
Krakw, Niepoomice offers a wealth of attractions making
it an ideal warm weather day trip, whether youre a history
buff, culture vulture or outdoors adventurer, or simply
looking for a luxuriant escape or alternative to Krakw.
Niepoomices history begins in 1340 when King Kazimierz
the Great established a fortification deep in the forest here
to protect a Wisa River crossing and trade route between
Krakw and Hungary. The site was smack in the middle of
an ancient virgin forest, which in those days spread from
Krakw all the way to Sandomierz, and lent the area its
name: deriving from the old Polish word niepoomny,
meaning impassable, indestructible, or perhaps best put
- impenetrable, Niepoomice came to identify the forest,
fortification and community surrounding it. Over time the
Niepoomice fortification developed into a castle and later
a royal palace, while the small settlement that sprang up
around it grew into the small town of 9,000 inhabitants that
live in Niepoomice today. Niepoomice grew in popularity
with the Polish royalty who used the castle as a hunting
lodge, filling it with big game trophies from excursions into
the surrounding wood. While what was once one of the
largest primeval forests in Europe has diminished greatly
in size over the centuries, Niepoomice Forest (Puszcza
Niepoomicka) today covers a protected area of over
110 square kilometres, offering a wealth of recreational
opportunities to tourists and locals alike. The town itself,
despite recent development and its close proximity to
Krakw, still maintains all the charm of a small Polish hamlet
with most of its attractions within 150 metres of each other:
a market square dotted with cafes and restaurants lies
directly between the castle grounds and the towns 14th
century church, while the beautiful red brick turn-of-thecentury Town Hall sits just beyond. With plenty to see and
do, beginning with the Royal Castle, Niepoomice offers
an ideal, easily accessible and compact day escape from
the pigeons and pub casualties of tourist-saturated Krakw.
THE ROYAL CASTLE

The castle in Niepoomice began as one of many fortifications
throughout Maopolska initiated by King Kazimierz the
Great in the 14th century, however this one soon became
his favourite residence which he used as a retreat from
the royal seat in Krakw. Kazimierz wasnt the only king to
favour the isolated outpost however, as his successors all
invested themselves in further embellishing and expanding
the castle into a magnificent royal residence where much
time was spent. The castles heyday came during the rule of
Wadysaw Jagieo who held meetings of the royal council
here, often entertaining foreign dignitaries and passing
official court judgements from Niepoomice rather than
Wawel. It was also from here that the famous royal hunts
set out, bringing back the big game trophies of bison,
bears and boars that would line the castle halls. In the mid16th century King Zygmunt August rebuilt the residence
on the model of contemporary Renaissance palaces - the
appearance of which has been restored today. The Second
Wawel (as it was known) maintained its splendour for
another hundred years before the Swedish deluge brought
an end to its golden age and, along with the country, the
castle gradually fell into ruin during Polands eras of partition
and occupation. A long and costly reconstruction began in
1991 and was completed finally in 2007.
A long and costly reconstruction began in 1991 and was
finally completed in 2007. Today the castle is a multifunctional space hosting several museum exhibits, an
excellent restaurant, 3-star boutique hotel, spa and
conference facilities. Despite all that however, the space
retains its authentic historical character. Perfect for a family
outing, across from the Castle entrance is a park with a large
playground, Queen Bonas picturesque gardens lie beside,
a small seasonal outdoor ethnographic park where you can
get grilled food lies at the bottom of the hill behind the
castle, and the Wisa River flows just beyond it.
GETTING TO NIEPOOMICE
Just 25km east of Krakw, Niepoomice is simple to get
to. Believe it or not, theres no train station in town (how
provincial!), so the easiest ways are by car or by bus.
If driving head east out of town from Podgrze on ul.
Wielicka, which turns into E-4 and then 964; from Nowa
Huta take ul. Igoomska (road 79), then turn on 75. Free
parking is plentiful around the centre of Niepoomice
with spaces in front of the Castle, on the market square
and near the church.
If you dont have your own ride, catch a minibus
operated by Mat Bus (matbus.pl) from the Pawia Bus
Depot (ul. Worcella 6, across from the Andels Hotel).
These buses run regularly from as early as 5:20, with the
last bus back to Krakw at 21:15 (21:10 on Saturday);
the journey takes 40mins, costs 5z (pay the driver), and
drops you off right near the Royal Castle.
Cracow City Tours (see p.71) can also arrange
transportation and tours of all Niepoomice attractions;
cost 170z per person, minimum 2 people, call two days
in advance.
April - May 2016
Niepoomice
OTHER ATTRACTIONS
NIEPOOMICE MUSEUM
The Castle in Niepoomice hosts no less than five permanent
exhibits, with plenty of space for occasional temporary
exhibits as well. Though not officially a branch of the Krakw
National Museum, Niepoomice Castle permanently hosts
two collections curated by the Krakw National Museum,
namely Sukiennice 2: Known and Unknown - an excellent
collection from the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery that
spans eight rooms, and European Salon - Western
European 17-20th century art from Krakws Europeum;
though there isnt any info in English, these are still the
castles premier and best-presented exhibits, and one 10z
ticket gets you into both of them. All other exhibits are
individually ticketed at 5z each and entirely skippable, with
the exception of perhaps the castles original exhibit on the
culture and tradition of the Polish royal hunts; comprising
centuries of hunting trophies from monarchical forays into
the Niepoomice Forest, visitors will see plenty of pelts,
horn mounts, and expertly-taxidermied brown bears,
moose, European bison, frighteningly large wild boars,
12-pointed stags, beavers, badgers, birds and more, plus a
special room of exotic trophies taken during Polish hunting
expeditions in the African savannah. A separate exhibition
in the Castle chapel gives a deposition on the historical
Parish Church in Niepoomice, and theres also a tiny exhibit
on Wodzimierz Puchaski - a Polish pioneer of nature films
and photography. One-hour guided tours of the castle
and most exhibits are available in English and Russian,
but must be arranged at least 7 days in advance (100z).
Qul. Zamkowa 2 (Niepoomice), tel. (+48) 12 261 98 51,
www.muzeum.niepolomice.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Last
entrance 1 hour before closing.
RESTAURACJA KRLOWA BONA
Although Niepoomices market square does have a few
cafes and restaurants serving ice cream and bad pizza, for a
meal as good if not better than any youll find in Krakw, the
Castle restaurant awaits. It was here after all that the Polish
kings feasted and entertained, and that historical tradition
continues to inspire the kitchen today - a very professional
outfit who turn out outstanding traditional dishes like
mead-marinated foie gras, mushroom soup in a bread bowl,
roasted duck, pheasant, and other royally delicious regional
dishes. The interiors of vaulted ceilings, historic furnishings
and three fireplaces provide plenty of ambience, and its
no surprise they play host to countless weddings on the
weekends.Qul. Zamkowa 2 (Niepoomice), tel. (+48) 12
261 98 36, www.zamekkrolewski.com.pl. Open 12:00 20:00. (9-59z). TUGBW
MAOPOLSKA CENTRE OF SOUNDS & WORDS

Located directly next to the Castle, in a modernised
building that once housed the Castle restaurant, this
new multifunctional EU-funded building was opened in
2011 and hosts all sorts of community programmes and
facilities including a modern performance hall, recording
studios and classrooms. Those that will be of most
interest to tourists are actually located in the basement,
so skip the front entrance and walk around the back to
find the buildings cafe/bar, cinema, and the groovy
Phonograph Museum (open 10:00 - 18:00, admission
10/8z, muzeumfonografii.pl
). Perfectly timed with PLs
vinyl revival, the museum features seven exhibition rooms
with over 150 items that lead you through the history of
sound equipment - beautiful 19th century gramophones,
inter-war radios, cult 50s and 60s players, 8-tracks and
cassettes, up to the loathsome discman. Along the way
youll not only see sound and media equipment, but each
room is also equipped to represent its era with antique and
vintage furnishings and decor. It all ends in the listening
room where you are welcome to browse through and
listen to their collection of over 2000 LPs on one of seven
different players. Amazingly, the collection is decent, the
players work and there arent any museum chaperones
looming over you trying to help. We could spend most of
the day there, and if you also happen to, theres always the
basement bar (open 10:00 - 22:00) where you can catch a
beer and maybe even a concert on the weekend. If youve
made the trip to Niepoomice, this and the Castle are the
two main things to check out.Qul. Zamkowa 4, tel. (+48)
12 357 34 65, www.mcdis.pl.
CHURCH OF TEN THOUSAND MARTYRS
The second-oldest building in Niepoomice (after the
castle less than 200m away), Kazimierz the Great made
no delay in establishing a local church, which he did as a
votive offering in honour of his victory over the Russians
in 1349. The chancel with its long Gothic windows and the
old vestry - including the only 14th century Italian frescoes
in Poland - are the only surviving remnants of the original
building after it was destroyed by fire and rebuilt under
Baroque influence in 1690. In 2008 the church celebrated
the 650th anniversary of its 1358 consecration by unveiling
Niepoomice
The Royal Castle

in Niepoomice
where every Guest

is treated like Royalty
Phonograph Museum
a 25,000-piece mural of Pope John Paul II (as you do in PL). In

the Royal Castle and this magnificent church, Niepoomice
boasts a rather extraordinary historical and architectural
site at its centre.Qul. Pikna 2, tel. (+48) 12 281 10 41,
parafianiepolomice.pl. Open by prior arrangement.
NIEPOOMICE FOREST
Once the favourite playground of rifle-wielding monarchs,
Niepoomice Forest is today a sad, yet inevitable fraction
of the legendarily dense, country-spanning wilderness it
was centuries ago when royal hunting parties returned
to the Royal Castle with the trophies of big game beasts
such as bison, bears, wolves and aurochs (a larger
ancestor of domestic cattle, extinct since 1627 when the
last known member of its species died in PL). During the
Polish partitions the Austro-Hungarian Empire succeeded
in destroying almost the entirety of the old-growth forest,
replanting it with pine trees; as such ancient trees are
extremely rare. Further destruction of the area occurred
during World War II when Nazi Germany hacked down
and shipped much of the forest to military bases and
battle fronts across Europe. Mass graves of local partisans,
Polish soldiers and Jews from Niepoomice and nearby
Bochnia murdered during this era can also be found
within the forest.
Located to the south and east of Niepoomice proper, today
Niepoomice Forest occupies 110 square kilometres of
protected habitat for rare species of owl, fox, boar, spotted
eagles and black storks which can still be seen by visitors.
At the very heart of the forest is also a special conservation
and breeding ground for Polish bison (ubr) where
approximately 30 of the endangered animals currently live.
Unfortunately for those hoping to get an up-close look
at the largest surviving land mammal in Europe, the 70
hectare habitat is strictly off-limits to the public; however
it is possible to hike up the perimeter of the reserve by
taking the 8km red trail. Visitors can traverse the original
Royal Road from Niepoomice to Poszyna by hiking the
14km green trail, while the 12km blue trail leads to the mass
graves of Poles and Jews from WWII. There are also cycling
and horseback riding trails criss-crossing the forest, a newly
opened 4km educational trail lined with placards describing
the local flora and fauna, and even a nine-hole golf course.
You can access most of these trails from the parking next to
Smak Bar on route 75 if you have a car; if not its about a 2km
hike south-east down ul. Bocheska from Niepoomices
Rynek.Qwww.niepolomice.krakow.lasy.gov.pl.
Restaurant Hotel
Conferences & Banquets
An ideal venue for wedding, conference, and in
fact anything. Alan
Wonderful restored hunting palace with great
restaurant on site. Would be great for romantic
get away. David
http://www.seeklogo.net
ul. Zamkowa 2, Niepoomice

tel. +48 12 261 98 00
hotel@zamekkrolewski.com.pl
www.zamekkrolewski.com.pl
April - May 2016
Arrival & Transport
Krakw Airport | Photo by Emily Meadows
Krakw is well-connected regarding transport, with a new

airport just 17km west of the centre, a recently modernised
joint train and bus station on the edge of the Old Town, and
some of Polands better roads connecting it to Katowice,
Wrocaw and Berlin to the west, Tarnw and Rzeszw to
the east, Kielce and Warsaw to the north and Budapest to
the south. The city also boasts a comprehensive and easyto-use public transportation system, which some visitors
wont even find necessary thanks to most attractions
being within easy walking distance of one another (not
to mention walking being one of the best ways to enjoy
Krakw). In this section youll find all you need to know
about getting in and out of Krakw, as well as around the
city with general ease.
BY PLANE
KRAKW AIRPORT
Located 17km west of the city centre, Krakw Airport
was the subject of a one billion PLN investment, which
resulted in the opening of a brand-new passenger
terminal in September 2015. The newly expanded
and modernised T1 passenger terminal now handles
all airport operations and conveniently connects
directly to the parking garage, the Hilton Garden Inn
hotel next to it, and the new Balice train station via a
skywalk leading straight into the terminal. Terminal
1 boasts the full services and amenities of a modern
airport, including ATMs and currency exchange, tourist
information, restaurants and shops, new business
lounges and VIP services. Note that car rental is now
located in the multi-storey parking garage across from
the terminal. Though some construction work is still

on-going, getting through check-in and security should
be relatively speedy; nonetheless, travellers should give
themselves some extra time to negotiate any confusion
or unexpected delays on the local roadways around the
airport (if not taking the train).
GETTING TO/FROM THE AIRPORT
The best way to get between the airport and Krakws
Old Town is by train. Trains run every 30mins between
04:00 and 24:00 and depart from platform 3 of Krakws
train station at :04 and :34 past the hour; and from Krakw
Balice Airport at :17 and :47 past the hour. The journey
time is about 20mins, and passengers are dropped off at
a new Balice station that is right near the airport terminal.
Ticket prices have actually been reduced to 8z, and can be
bought from ticket machines on the platform, or on-board
the train.
In the unlikely event that you cant take the train, public
buses 292 (departs every 20mins) and 208 (once an hour)
also make the journey, as does night bus 902 (hourly
departures between 23:25 and 04:55). Bus is the cheaper
option, but the journey takes 35-45mins depending on
traffic. Buy a 4/2z single journey fare from the ticket
machine at the bus-stop or on-board the bus. Upon leaving
Terminal 1, youll find the bus stop to your right. To get to
the airport, buses depart from the Krakw Bus Station (ul.
Bosacka 18, E-1) at the stop Dworzec Gwny Wschd located on the lower level of the bus station, just east of
the train station. Exact bus times can be checked online at
mpk.krakow.pl.
Arrival & Transport

AIRPORT TAXIS
The airport has its own Krakow Airport Taxi service with
vehicles waiting outside the terminal entrance. The idea
is that this trusted service offers a set price range of 6989z from the airport to the Old Town, with no monkey
business and no night time price hikes. In reality, this
service is fleecing people by protecting its ridiculously
high prices. If you go more than 15km the price jumps
from 69z to 89z, so expect to pay 89z unless your hotel
is en route on the outskirts of the city centre. We advise
confirming the fare for the 25-35min journey beforehand,
and trying to split the cost with other travellers in the
same situation.
Conversely, fares from the Old Town back to the airport
range from only 35-70z depending on time of day, and
whether you call ahead or hail one in the street. Use our
Taxi listings (p.14) and you should be able to negotiate a
daytime fare as low as 40z from the Old Town. Thats a huge
difference.Qul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 1, tel. (+48) 12 295
58 00, www.krakowairport.pl.
BY BUS
KRAKW BUS STATION
Although somewhat integrated into the Krakw Glwny
underground transportation centre, Krakw retains its
own separate bus station, located directly east of the
train platforms. The small building comprises two floors
with access to two levels of bus departure gates. Inside
the top floor of the bus station youll find the main ticket
windows (tickets can also be bought downstairs), a 24hour toilet, food vendors, exchange bureau (kantor), ATM
(bankomat) and information point (open 07:00-20:00).
Lockers for left luggage cost 8-15z (depending on size) for
24 hours, however are unavailable when the main hall is
closed between 22:00 and 06:00. During this time there is a
separate night time waiting room.
Those arriving to Krakw by bus will find taxis nearby on
both the upper and lower floors, as well connections to
public transport nearby. Unfortunately, the most direct
way into the Old Town is through the underground Krakw
Gwny; once youre inside this labyrinth follow the clearly
marked signs for Stare Miasto or ul. Lubicz to exit in the
direction of the market square.
Bus is your best option for travel to Zakopane and the Tatra
Mountains, with frequent departures for the two hour
journey. For exact departure times check the website which
is also in English. Mini-bus is actually your best option for
getting to some popular destinations like Wieliczka and
Niepoomice. Many mini-buses leave not from the bus
station, but from the bus lot across from Galeria Krakowska
at the corner of ul. Pawia and ul. Worcella (D-2). Only a
short walk away, follow signs to ul. Pawia into and out of
the shopping mall to get there.QE1, ul. Bosacka 18, tel.
(+48) 703 40 33 40, www.mda.malopolska.pl. Ticket
office open 07:00 - 19:45.
PRIVATE TRANSPORT
KRAKW AIRPORT TRANSFER
As noted elsewhere, taxi service from the airport
to the Old Town is a bit of a racket. Skip it by using
this business class transport service ( call 662 905
905) that actually sticks to the promised 69z fare,
no matter where youre headed in the centre,
what time it is, or which day of the week. Enjoy
the thrill of being greeted at Arrivals by a welldressed and English-speaking chauffeur holding
a card with your name on it, before climbing
into a Mercedes and getting out at the door of
your destination. Larger vehicles are available for
groups, and in addition to Krakw and Katowice
airports, this outfit can arrange transport all across
PL, and also nearby capitals like Prague and Berlin;
daytrips to Auschwitz, Wieliczka and Zakopane
are also organised.Qtel. (+48) 662 90 59 05,
www.krakowairporttransfer.pl.
KRAKOW SHUTTLE
Krakw and Katowice airport transfers at a good value,
as well as tours of hard to reach sights in and outside
the city (Wieliczka, Auschwitz). Call their 24hr infoline
for bookings and assistance.Qtel. (+48) 510 56 00 00,
www.krakowshuttle.com.
We offer transfers to and from

Cracow airport - 69PLN
www.krakowairporttransfer.pl
We also offer one-day trips

from Cracow to:
Auschwitz, Wieliczka Salt Mine,
Zakopane and the
Tatra Mountains
www.bestkrakowtours.pl
phone: +48 662 905 905
email: info@iqpd.pl
April - May 2016
11
Arrival & Transport

USEFUL TRANSPORT APPS
JAKDOJADE:
Despite the fact that Krakws
tram and bus network is
incredibly easy to use, even
for foreigners, well still
admit to being a bit put off
from using it at first; that
is until we discovered the
veritable skeleton key to
unlocking public transport:
the
krakow.jakdojade.pl
website and the jakdojade
app for your smartphone. The former is a great tool
for advance planning, but the app is more practical
for figuring out how to get from point A to B once
youre out in town and away from your computer.
Just type in your starting address (the app does this
automatically) and destination, or pin the locations
on a map; select the time you want to depart or
arrive, and Jakdojade magically churns out the
best method for you to get there. Finished at the
museum and want to head back to the hotel? This
app will tell you exactly which bus or tram to get on,
lead you to the correct stop and even tell you which
ticket to buy. Its brilliant and absolutely worth
the couple euros youll spend to download it. For
those who prefer to feel smarter than their phones,
you can also find timetables and network maps
at mpk.krakow.pl.
ITAXI:
If you dont have the patience
for public transport in the first
place, theres a nifty app for
ordering taxis in PL: iTaxi.pl.
iTaxi allows you to compare
rates, arrival times, car models
and more, sending the cab of
your choice to your location
without you having to talk to
any dispatchers. Best of all,
the drivers register to create
a profile, and are heavily vetted so theres no funny
business. Download it for free from their website.
UBER:
Not only has Uber (uber.com) arrived in Poland, but
the company is investing heavily in Krakw specifically,
currently building its first-ever Regional Centre of
Excellence in PLs ancient capital, which will open in
2017 and serve as their European hub. If youre already
an Uber user, youll find that the alternative taxi service
- whose free mobile app offers cheap one-tap, no cash,
no tip rides from local drivers - has good coverage
across Krakw and all of Poland.
BY TRAIN
MAIN TRAIN STATION
Following a 130 million PLN modernisation project,
Krakw Gwny - the catch-all title of the citys vast
underground transportation centre - now offers easy
transfers between train, bus and tram transport. Of course
the Galeria Krakowska shopping mall is also cleverly
integrated, and along with modern conveniences like
waiting rooms, escalators and elevators, youll also find
plenty of additional consumer opportunities, including
cafes, supermarkets, souvenir shops, bookstores and more.
With tunnels, stairs and signs leading off in every direction,
its all quite confusing (erm, we mean, modern!), but fear
not - IYP will help you sort it out.
SERVICES
Pretty much everything the modern traveller could ever
expect or desire can be found somewhere inside the
sprawling, but spiffy facilities of the Krakw train station.
In addition to being fully handicap-accessible, there are
also special paths for the blind, plus SOS call boxes if you
get lost and cant find your way out for several days. 24
ticket windows (some open 24hrs), plus several automated
ticket machines (in English) throughout the station limit
the possibility of long queues. The station is wifi-enabled,
there are several waiting areas (including a place for firstclass ticket holders to quarantine themselves), tourist
information (open 06:00 - 22:00), currency exchange,
luggage lockers, showers, and dozens of food and
refreshment opportunities, not to mention the Galeria
Krakowska shopping mall.
ARRIVING BY TRAIN
Conveniently situated at the north-east edge of the Old
Town, Krakw Gwny is within easy walking distance of
most Old Town accommodation, making trams and taxis
largely unnecessary. If youre travelling further than you
care to walk, you can catch trams to Kazimierz (number
19 in the direction of Borek Facki stops at Miodowa (E5) in Kazimierz, for example) and other parts of the city by
following signs underground to Dworzec Gwny Tunel.
Further tram stops are located just outside the station
exits. To skip that trouble however, when you disembark
your train immediately head up rather than down from the
platform and youll find yourself on the top floor parking
garage where taxis are waiting to whisk you away.
Arrival & Transport

If you opt to walk - and we encourage you to do so, wandering
into the Old Town is dreamy - youll find that getting out
of the station is now a bit of a challenge. There are at least
four exits and its wise to choose the correct one, based on
where you want to go. Following signs to ul. Pawia will lead
you straight into the Galeria Krakowska shopping mall (in the
words of Admiral Ackbar: Its a traaap!). Signs to Dworzec
Autobusowy or ul. Bosacka will put you on the east side of
the transport complex (further from the market square).
If you want to head straight to the market square (do it, its
only 10mins away!) it is easier to take the stairs down from the
platforms to the old Magda tunnel, rather than the escalators
into the new complex. Once in the tunnel there is a staircase
just after platform 1 that will lead you to daylight. If you end
up in the new main complex, follow the clearly marked
signs to Stare Miasto or ul. Lubicz to escape. Once outside,
cross the plaza in front of the old station building (Galeria
Krakowska is on your right) to the Andels Hotel and follow
the crowds through the underpass (D-2); bear right and enjoy
a stroll through the Planty Park for two blocks before making
a left on Floriaska Street at the Barbican (D-2) and youre on
the Path of Kings to the market square. Youve arrived.
DEPARTING BY TRAIN
With the train station having been completely moved
underground, theres no longer a clear-cut main entrance,
but rather several ways to enter. Basically it is directly
underneath the train platforms and bus station (E-1), so use
those as your geographical targets and youll find your way;
you can also cut through Galeria Krakowska to get there.
Easily accessed by public transport, there are tram stops
all around the train station. If you take the tram or bus to
the Dworzec Gowny stop you will end up somewhere
near the intersection of Basztowa/Lubicz and Pawia/
Westerplatte streets (D-2, there are several stops at this
intersection); head through the underpass (if necessary)
and across the square in front of Galeria Krakowska to the
train platforms.
If you take the tram or bus to Dworzec Gwny Zachd (D1), enter Galeria Krakowska, descend one level and follow
the signs. If you take the tram to Dworzec Gwny Tunel
(E-1) you are basically already in the underground transport
centre - just follow signs to the train platforms.
Finally, if you take a tram or bus to Dworzec Gwny
Wschd (E-1) navigate yourself through the roundabout
toward the buses and you will see the main entrance of the
new train station. All of these are perfectly good options, it
just depends where you are coming from.
Station departures (odjazdy) are listed on yellow
timetables, arrivals (przyjazdy) are the white ones; check
the timetables online at the Polish railways website rozklad.pkp.pl - which has limited but effective English
language functionality. If you want a seat on a particular
train it is best to book ahead. If in a rush, tickets can also
be bought on board the train from the conductor, but
expect a surcharge.QE1, ul. Pawia 5a, tel. (+48) 22 39
19 757 (from foreign mobile phones), www.rozklad.pkp.
pl. Open 24hrs. Note that, due to system maintenance,
seat reservations cannot be made from 24:00 to 01:00.
Antique tram outside the City Engineering Museum
PUBLIC TRANSPORT
While Krakow has no underground metro system it does
have an integrated bus and tram system which runs from
05:00 - 23:00, with night trams and buses continuing less
frequently after that. Check timetables and network maps
online at mpk.krakow.pl (which has English functionality),
and purchase tickets from the handy ticket machines (also
in English) at major stops, on-board most trams and buses,
or from the driver immediately on boarding if there is no
ticket machine. Note that the ticket machines at stops take
bills and bank cards, but most of those on board trams and
buses take coins only, so have some change handy.
Tickets are the same for trams and buses, and are timed,
allowing you to change between tram or bus lines within
the alloted time. The cheapest fare is good for 20mins at a
cost of 2.80z. By our estimation, this is about the time it
should take to go 5-8 stops, depending on traffic, and ideal
for travel around the Old Town, Kazimierz and Podgrze. If
youre going outside the centre (Nowa Huta, for example),
we recommend you purchase a 40min ticket for 3.80z.
1-hour, 24-hour, 48-hour, 72-hour, and unlimited weekend
family passes for 16.00z are also options. Note that ISIC
and Euro26 Student cards are valid for transport ticket
discounts, but you must carry your ID and be under 26.
Most importantly, you must stamp your ticket
immediately on boarding the tram or bus in the small
machines on-board, even if you bought your ticket onboard. Beware that inspectors regularly travel on the lines
handing out costly fines to those without valid tickets, and
are notoriously unsympathetic towards tourists. Seriously,
riding without a ticket can not only ruin your day, but your
entire trip to Krakw.
Find a map of Krakws tram system

on p.132-133.
April - May 2016
13
Arrival & Transport

BY CAR
TAXIS
Not the dodgy enterprise it once was, most taxis are reliable
and use their metres without any fiddling around. Calling
ahead will get you a better fare, but if you hail one from
the street make sure it is clearly marked with a company
name and phone number displayed, as well as a sticker
demarcating prices in the window. Taxis are now legally
obliged to give you a printed receipt at journeys end
further limiting the likelihood of any funny business. You
can expect a standard fare to be about 7z plus about 2.30z
per kilometre; at night and on Sundays, however, fares
increase by up to 50%.
Poland is one of Europes leading nations in road fatalities,

a statistic that will surprise few who have had the pleasure
of using the roads here. A lethal combination of poor road
surfaces, networks unsuited to the volume of different
traffic and, most of all, aggressive driver behaviour result in
the common sight of mangled wrecks around the country.
Exercise caution, keep a safe distance from the vehicle in
front, rub those rosary beads and God speed.
The speed limit in Poland is generally 50km/hr in cities
(60km/hr between 23:00 and 05:00), 90km/hr outside
urban areas, 120km/hr on dual carriageways and 140km/
hr on motorways. All cars must have their headlights
switched on at all times and carry a red warning triangle,
first aid kit, replacement bulbs, a national identity sticker
and proper registration and insurance documents. Poland
also has strict drunk-driving laws: 0.2 is the maximum
blood/alcohol limit, so forget about having even a single
beer. EU citizens may use their home driving licences
as long as they are valid (and you have it on you when
driving), however citizens of countries that didnt ratify the
Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk Australia and America) will find
their licences technically invalid (though this has never
been a problem for anyone we know).
With that out of the way, how to get here? The A4 highway
runs right through Krakw connecting it to Berlin (via
Katowice, Opole and Wrocaw) to the west and Rzeszw to
the east (via Tarnw). While points east are currently tollfree, a 10z toll is paid when you enter the motorway in the
direction of Katowice, and again when you exit.
Driving around the city itself is incredibly frustrating
thanks to constant roadwork, one-way streets, streets that
require a permit to drive down, and high traffic volume;
parking is yet another challenge. Put it all together and
we recommend you ditch your vehicle in favour of public
transportation at the first opportunity. Street parking is
available between the large parking signs on the sidewalks,
and is free on weekends; otherwise buy a parking pass
from the ticket machine (most of which only take coins,
of course) or neon-bibbed warden patrolling the area, and
place it on the drivers side of your dashboard. The cost of
street parking is 3z for the first hour, 3.50z for the second,
4.10z for the third, and after that back to 3z. Public parking
lots are also marked on the map in the back of this guide.
For those just arriving in town, taxis await you on the

rooftop parking lot of the train station, and outside the
airport where Krakw Airport Taxi has a monopoly on
service to the Old Town, charging an outrageous 69-89z for
the fare. We suggest you split it with like-minded travellers
in the same predicament.
Whether or not to tip your taxi driver is a bit of a point of
contention. Many Poles do not consider taxis a service that
necessitates a tip and thereby, if youre Polish, the driver
may not expect one. But double standards being what they
are, its anticipated that foreigners will leave a tip, in which
case 10% is appropriate, or simply rounding up the bill. We
leave it to you.
Alternative taxi service Uber (much-loathed by Krakws

taxi companies) is also now available in Poland, and has
in fact chosen Krakw as its European hub. Uber (uber.
com) offers one-tap, no-cash-necessary transport via their
popular worldwide mobile application. Those already
familiar with Uber will find Krakw well-covered by the
service.
BARBAKAN TAXI
Qtel. (+48) 12 196 61, www.taxi.barbakan.krakow.pl.
ICAR
Qtel. (+48) 12 653 55 55, www.icartaxi.eu.
MEGA TAXI
Qtel. (+48) 12 196 25, www.megataxi.eu.
RADIO TAXI 919
Qtel. (+48) 12 191 91, www.radiotaxi919.pl.
Arrival & Transport

CAR RENTAL
All you need to rent a car in PL is a credit card and a valid
foreign licence or international driving permit. Be aware,
however, that citizens from countries that didnt ratify the
Vienna Convention (tsk, tsk America, Australia) cannot
legally drive on their licences and run the risk of hassle
from the police (not that it ever stopped anyone we know
from borrowing their girlfriends car, or renting one for that
matter). Enjoy cruising the EU, but dont try leaving it in a
rental car.
Internationally trusted service
offering a range a vehicles
from two-door sedans to
luxury mini-vans. Located here near the train station,
with a pick-up/drop-off point nearby at ul. Wita
Stwosza 4 (open 08:00 - 22:00). Also at the airport
(open 06:00 - 24:00; contact by phone possible after
working hours).QJ2, ul. Lubicz 23, tel. (+48) 601 20
07 02, www.avis.pl. Open 08:00 - 17:00, Sat 09:00 13:00, or by prior arrangment.
A wide range of cars
including
BMWs,
Skodas, Kias and
Nissans. All cars are
equipped with power steering. Satellite navigation
systems are also available. Special rates offered to
those who order through the Joka website.QD2,
ul. Zacisze 7 (3rd floor, room 7), tel. (+48) 601 54
53 68, www.joka.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sat
09:00 - 12:00. Closed Sun. Outside of these hours
on request.
EUROPCAR
Offering both short and long term rental options with
9 different categories of car available for your individual
needs. Excellence in service with benefits tailored to your
specific requirements. Europcar is present at all Polish
airports including Krakw-Balice, tel. 12 258 12 86.QJ4, ul.
Nadwilaska 6 (Qubus Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 374 56 96,
www.europcar.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
The Maluch - iconic communist-era family car, and sadly

unavailable to rent.
April - May 2016
15
City Basics
FACTS & FIGURES
MARKET VALUES
TERRITORY
Poland covers an area of 312,685 square kilometres and
is the ninth biggest country in Europe. It borders the
Baltic Sea (528km) and seven countries, namely Belarus
(416km), Czech Republic (790km), Germany (467km),
Lithuania (103km), the Russian enclave of Kaliningrad
(210km), Slovakia (539km) and Ukraine (529km).
Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite

increases over the last couple of years particularly in
the prices of cigarettes. Here are some typical everyday
products and prices. Market values as of March 22, 2016
based on 1 = 4.22z
LONGEST RIVER
Krakw is split by the Vistula (Wisa) River. At 1,047km
it is Polands longest river, flowing through Warsaw and
into the Bay of Gdask.
HIGHEST POINT
The highest peak is Rysy (2,499m) in the nearby Tatra
Mountains. By comparison Krakws landscape is flat
and the city lies 219m above sea level.
POPULATION (2015)
Poland - 38,478,602
Warsaw - 1,735,442
Krakw - 761,873
d - 706,004
Wrocaw - 634,487
Pozna - 545,680
Gdask - 461,489
Katowice - 301,834
LOCAL TIME
Poland is in the Central European (CET) time zone
(GMT+1hr). When its 12:00 in Krakw its 6:00 am in New
York City, 11:00 in London, 12:00 in Paris and Berlin and
19:00 in Tokyo. Polish summer time (GMT+2hrs) starts
and ends on the last Sundays of March and October.
HEALTH & EMERGENCY

In the case of an emergency, mobile phone users should
dial 112 to be forwarded to the police, fire department
or ER. From a landline or public phone dial the following:
Ambulance: 999; Fire: 998; Police: 997.
English, German and Russian speakers have separate
lines specifically designed for foreigners in distress: +48
608 599 999 or +48 22 278 77 77. Both numbers can
be reached from a mobile phone or a land-line and are
hotlines in case you run into any troubles during your stay.
The lines are active year round with later hours during the
high-tourist season.
For urgent medical emergencies, a list of Emergency
Rooms can be found in the Directory section of this guide
(page 124). If youve woken up to find youve got a raging
headache, a swollen foot you cant put weight on and
vague memories of some kind of calamity, we suggest you
sort it out by calling a private clinic, thus avoiding the
hassle of the notoriously long queues in Polish hospitals;
a list of private clinics can also be found in the Directory
(p.125). Further help can be provided by embassies and
consulates, a list of which youll find on page 124.
McDonald's Big Mac

Snickers
0.5ltr vodka (shop)
0.5ltr beer (shop)
0.5ltr beer (bar)
Loaf of white bread
20 Marlboros
1 ltr of unleaded petrol (98)
Local transport ticket (1 journey)
9.70 z
1.69 z
23.99 z
2.99 z
9.00 z
1.99 z
15.00 z
4.11 z
3.80 z
2.30
0.40
5.68
0.71
2.13
0.47
3.55
0.97
0.90
LAW & ORDER

In general Krakw is far safer than most West European
cities, and visitors are unlikely to face any problems if they
simply employ common sense. Petty crime does exist,
and travellers should be on guard against pickpockets; if
youre in a bar or restaurant keep your wallet inside your
trouser pocket, not inside a jacket casually left lying around.
Perhaps the biggest danger in Krakw is posed by groups
of drunken football hooligans who can be easily avoided
and heard coming a mile away. Finally, foreign men should
be suspicious of young women who take an overactive
interest in them and suggest going to some dodgy
nightclub not in this guide where they stand the chance
of being intimidated into paying for vastly inflated drink
charges by thuggish bouncers; unfortunately, it happens.
Staying safe and on the right side of the law is significantly
easier for tourists who accept that Polish beer and vodka
are rocket fuel and drink accordingly. If youre determined to
make an idiot of yourself then make sure its not in front of the
law. Since the budget airline boom, plenty of geniuses - from
those in Chewbacca costumes to complete prats whove
thought it perfectly acceptable to drop their trousers and
urinate in a city centre fountain - have tested the patience
of local law enforcement, which is now decidedly low so
dont push your luck. Those who do may well be treated to a
trip to Krakws premier drunk tank on ul. Rozrywka (which
literally translates as Entertainment Street), where you can
expect a strip search, a set of blue pyjamas and the company
of a dozen mumbling vagrants. Not to mention a hefty fine
(credit cards not accepted, of course).
Other easy ways for tourists to cross cops are by riding
public transport without a ticket (see p. 13) and, silly as
it seems, by jaywalking. If you are from a country which
doesnt have or respect jaywalking laws, youll be surprised
to see crowds of people standing obediently at a crossing
City Basics
waiting for the lights to change. The reason for obeying this
little rule is the fact that the local city police (Stra Miejska)
will quite freely give you a 50-100z fine for crossing a road
at a place where no crossing is marked or a 100z fine when
the walk light is red. And dont think you are exempt by
being a foreign visitor. You too are subject to the law and
your non-residency means you will be forced to pay the
fine on the spot.
MONEY
Thinking of paying for your tram ticket with one of the
100z notes in your pocket? Think again. Small shops,
newsagents, public toilets, and even the occasional
restaurant or bar, will often refuse to break a large note for
you. As annoying as coins can be, do carry small change for
such moments.
Currency can be exchanged at airports, hotels, banks and
anywhere with a sign proclaiming Kantor. Kantors will
often provide better value than the banks in your home
country or the ATM although for obvious reasons be very
wary of kantors in the airports, bus stations and close to
tourist sites. Shopping around will reward you with the best
rate. For a list of kantors in Krakw that wont rip you off,
see p. 124.
Since EU ascension and becoming a favoured tourist
destination, prices in Poland and especially Krakw have
been on the rise, making the country less of a bargain
than it was ten years ago. Having said that, however, prices
for food, drink, cultural venues and transport still remain
comparably cheap in contrast to Western Europe. A ticket
to the cinema typically costs 15-25z, while admission to
most museums costs around 5-15z.
RELIGION
According to the Ministry of Foreign Affairs, 95% of Poles
are Roman Catholics. And though that figure is based on
baptisms and the number of actual practising Catholics is
probably closer to 75% (and falling), Poland remains one
of the most religious countries in Europe. For over one
thousand years Poland has been a bulwark of Catholicism,
fighting against the horrors of pagan invasions and looking
to Catholicism for a sense of social and national unity.
When Poland was partitioned in the 19th century, many
turned to the Church for solace and during the communist
era, underground resistance meetings were surreptitiously
held in churches. Krakws own Pope John Paul II remains a
genuine source of pride for all Poles, and is beloved in a way
more profound than cynics in the West can understand.
Those used to the more easy-going habits of the West may
find the Polish enthusiasm for the Church a bit unnerving at
first, particularly the solemn and opulent processions that
occur from time to time, and the droves that flock to mass.
Tourists should remember while visiting Krakws many
churches that these arent museums, but active places of
worship to be treated with the requisite respect.
LANGUAGE SMARTS
Attempting discourse in the Polish language can be
terrifying and humiliating, but fortunately for you many
Poles, particularly young people, have a healthy command
of the English language. Though you can probably get
by without it, learning a few key Polish phrases will
nonetheless smooth your time in Krakw and may even
win you friends and admirers.
On the downside, Polish is officially recognised as one of
the most difficult languages for native English speakers to
learn. On the upside, however, unlike in English, words in
Polish are actually spelled the way they are pronounced.
This is a great help once you know how to pronounce each
letter/combination of letters. While many letters represent
the same sounds as they do in English, below we have
listed those particular to Polish, followed by some basic
words and phrases. Powodzenia (Good luck)!
Basic Pronunciation
sounds like on in the French bon

sounds like en as in the French bien
is an open o sound like oo in boot
c like the ts in bits
j like the y in yeah
w is pronounced like the English v
like the w in win
like the ny in canyon
cz and like the ch in beach
dz like the ds in beds
rz and like the su in treasure
sz and like the sh in ship
drz like the g in George
r is always rolled
Polish Words & Phrases

Yes
No
Hi/Bye (informal)
Hello/Good day (formal)
Good evening (formal)
Good-bye
Good Night
Please
Thank you
Excuse me/Sorry
Tak
Nie
Cze
Dzie dobry
Dobry wieczr
Do widzenia
Dobranoc
Prosz
Dzikuj
Przepraszam
(Tahk)
(Nyeh)
(Cheshch)
(Jen doh-bri)
(Doh-bri vyeh-choor)
(Doh veet-zen-ya)
(Doh-brah-noats)
(Prosheh)
(Jen-koo-yeh)
(Psheh-prasham)
My name is...
Im from England.
Do you speak English?
I dont speak Polish.
I dont understand.
Two beers, please.
Cheers!
Where are the toilets?
You are beautiful.
I love you.
Please take me home.
Call me!
Mam na imi...
Jestem z Anglii
Czy mwisz po angielsku?
Nie mwi po polsku.
Nie rozumiem.
Dwa piwa prosz.
Na zdrowie!
Gdzie s toalety?
Jeste pikna.
Kocham ci.
Prosz zabierz mnie
do domu.
Zadzwo do mnie!
(Mam nah ee-myeh)

(Yehstem zanglee)
(Che moo-veesh po an-gyel-skoo?)
(Nyeh moo-vyeh po pol-skoo.)
(Nyeh row-zoo-me-ehm.)
(Dvah peevah prosheh.)
(Nah zdrovyeh!)
(Gdjeh sawn toe-letih)
(Yes-tesh pee-enk-nah.)
(Ko-hahm chuh.)
(Prosheh za-byesh mnyeh doh
doh-moo.)
(Zads-dvoan doh mnyeh!)
Airport
Train station
Bus station
One ticket to
Lotnisko
Dworzec PKP
Dworzec PKS
Jeden bilet do
(Lot-nees-ko)
(Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Peh)
(Dvoar-jets Peh Kah Ess)
(Yeh-den bee-let doh)
April - May 2016
17
Basic History
One of the oldest cities in Poland,
archaeological evidence proves
that there were settlements
in the Krakw area as early as
the Palaeolithic period, with
stone tools found on Wawel Hill
dating back - way, way back - to
50,000BC. Legend attributes the
citys founding to Krakus, the
mythical ruler who vanquished
the Wawel Dragon. The
mysterious earthwork Mounds
named after Krakus and his daughter Wanda, located in
the Podgrze and Nowa Huta districts respectively, were
probably built in the 7th century. However, historians date
the settlement of Krakws Old Town slightly later in the
8th century, crediting it to a tribe of pagan Slavs known as
the Vistulans. By 966, the date of the first written record
of the citys name, Krakw had already grown into a busy
commercial centre, thanks in part to the amber trade.
In the late 9th century the region was ruled by the
Moravians, passing shortly thereafter to Bohemian rule
before being incorporated into the principality of the
Piast dynasty in the 990s, thus creating the Kingdom
of Poland. The city developed rapidly, acquiring its own
bishopric in 1000, and in 1038 Krakw became the
capital of Poland, with Wawel Royal Castle becoming
the residence of Polish kings. The 13th century was marked
by incessant Mongol invasions, the first occurring in 1241
when the city was almost entirely destroyed, but it was
dutifully rebuilt in time to be ravaged again in 1259 and
1287. Following this last embarrassment, the city was
surrounded by 3 kilometres of defensive walls, towers
and gates which would be modernised over the next few
centuries.
Krakw particularly flourished under the rule of Kazimierz
the Great (1333-1370), who expanded Wawel Castle and
established two new cities - Kleparz and Kazimierz which were closely connected with and would later be
incorporated into Krakw. A huge patron of the arts and
sciences, in 1364 he founded the Krakw Academy, now
known as Jagiellonian University - one of the oldest
institutions of higher learning in Europe. Prosperity
continued during the joint Polish-Lithuanian Jagiello
dynasty (1386-1572) as Krakw experienced its golden
age. Talented artists, humanists and scientists arrived
from Renaissance Italy and Germany to create impressive
new buildings, sculptures, frescos and other artworks,
and Wawel Castle was turned into a pearl of Renaissance
architecture. However, after several centuries of roaring
times the citys fortunes began to turn with the death
of King Zygmunt II in 1572, who left no heir. With the
throne passing to the Swedish House of Vasa, Krakws
importance began to decline, resulting in Sigismund IIIs
decision to move the Polish capital to Warsaw in 1596;
however Krakw maintained its role as the official site of
royal coronations and burials.
Woodcut of Krakw from the Nuremberg Chronicle, 1493
The 17th century was marked by the pillaging of the

Swedish Invasion (1655) and a bout with the Black
Death that claimed 20,000 residents. In the late 18th
century, Poland passed the worlds second democratic
constitution (after the US) on May 3, 1791, however only
days later the countrys more militarised and expansionistminded neighbours Russia, Prussia and Austria invaded
and imposed the First Partition of Poland (1772-73) on
the weakened country; a second partition transpired
twenty years later. Krakw developed a reputation as a
bastion of rebellion against foreign invaders and in 1794,
Polish freedom-fighter Tadeusz Kociuszko initiated
his famous Insurrection on Krakws market square; it
eventually failed and the Prussians soon stepped into
the city to loot the entire royal treasury. Poland was
partitioned a third time (1795) and Krakw became part
of the Austrian province of Galicia.
Thanks to Napoleon, the city flirted with various forms
of semi-independence from 1809 to 1846 before being
absorbed back into Austria. Under Austrian occupation
Krakws fortified city walls were levelled - with the notable
exceptions of the section around the Floriaska Gate and
the Barbican - and the Planty park was created where
they once stood. Austrian rule was more lenient than that
imposed in the Russian and Prussian-ruled partitions and
as a result Krakw became a centre of Polish nationalism,
culture and art during the pre-war fin de siecle era. The city
was also modernised during this time with running water,
electricity and the first electric streetcars (1901) all being
installed ahead of Warsaw in the first decade of the 20th
century.
View of Rynek Gwny and the Cloth Hall, 1870
Basic History
When the First World War broke out, Krakw was
besieged by Russian troops forcing many residents to
flee the city. Krakw became the first Polish city liberated
from Austrian rule on October 31st, 1918 when a planned
revolt against the Austrian garrison in Podgrze freed
the city in advance of the wars end. The Treaty of
Versailles would establish the first sovereign Polish
state in over a century, however twenty years later in
September 1939, Nazi German forces entered Krakw,
setting up command of their General Government (the
Nazi term for the occupied Polish lands slated to be
purified and incorporated into the Rhineland) in Wawel
Castle. Over 150 professors from Jagiellonian University
were rounded up and shipped to concentration camps
in what is known as Sonderaktion Krakau. The Jewish
population was ejected from Kazimierz into a ghetto
in the Podgrze district, with the Liban and Paszw
work and concentration camps close by. The Jewish
ghetto, whose population fluctuated between 15,000
and 18,000, was liquidated in 1943 with its occupants
shot where they stood, sent to work in Paszw or sent to
their deaths in nearby Auschwitz. Krakw was liberated
on January 18th 1945, with the architectural fabric of the
city miraculously coming through the Soviet offensive
almost completely intact.
Jewish captives, assembled for slave labour, 1939.
Following WWII, the dubious process of Sovietisation

began, and the district of Nowa Huta was built around
the countrys largest steel mill in the late 1940s in an
attempt to weaken Krakws intellectual and artistic
heritage through industrialisation. Almost forty-five
years of communism followed, including a year and a
half of martial law, before the Solidarity independent
trade union gathered enough momentum to force free
elections in 1989 in which Lech Wasa became the first
post-communist president of Poland. In 1978 Krakws
Old Town and Kazimierz districts were placed on the
first UNESCO World Heritage List and in the same year
Krakws archbishop Karol Wojtya became the first
non-Italian pope in 455 years. Because of its preservation,
today Krakw is arguably Polands most important
historical and cultural artefact. In 2014 the city was visited
by 9.9 million tourists.
HISTORICAL TIMELINE
966: First written record of the city
1000: Krakw bishopric established
1038: Krakw becomes the capital of Poland
1257: Krakw granted municipal rights
1320: First royal coronation in Wawel Cathedral: King
Wadysaw the Short
1335: Kazimierz is founded on the eastern bank of
the Wisa River
1364: Jagiellonian University founded
1386: Krakw wedding of Polish Queen Jadwiga and
Lithuanian grand duke Jagiello creates the
Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth
1596: Polish capital moved to Warsaw
1655: Swedish army captures and devastates the city
1683: King Jan III Sobieski defeats the Ottoman
Empire in the Battle of Vienna, saving Christian
Europe
1734: Final coronation in Wawel Cathedral: King
August III
1791: The May 3rd Constitution is passed; the First
Partition of Poland follows
1794: Prussian army captures Krakw after the failed
Kociuszko Uprising
1796: Krakw becomes part of Austrian Galicia after
the Third Partition of Poland
1918: Poland returns to the map of Europe
1939: Nazi occupation begins
1941: The Jewish Ghetto is established in Podgrze
1942: Paszw concentration camp established in
Podgrze
1943: Liquidation of the Krakw Ghetto
1945: Krakw liberated by the Soviet Army
1947: Construction begins on Nowa Huta
1978: Krakws Old Town, Wawel and Kazimierz
added to the UNESCO World Heritage List;
Karol Wojtya inaugurated as Pope John Paul II
1981: Martial law declared in Poland
1983: Martial law lifted; Lech Wasa wins the Nobel
Peace Prize
1989: Free elections in PL; Communist regime
crumbles
1999: Poland joins NATO
2000: Krakw is the first Polish city to be named
European Capital of Culture
2002: 2.5 million people gather on the Bonia to
participate in a mass by Pope John Paul II
2004: Poland joins the European Union
2005: Pope John Paul II passes away
2010: 96 Polish delegates die in a plane crash
near Smolensk, Russia, including President
Lech Kaczyski and his wife Maria, who are
controversially buried in the Wawel Royal Crypts
2013: Krakw is designated UNESCO City of
Literature
2016: Krakw to host Catholic World Youth Day
April - May 2016
19
Culture & Events
Cracovia Marathon
CINEMAS
CLASSICAL CONCERTS
ARS CINEMA
QC3, ul. w. Tomasza 11, tel. (+48) 12 421 41 99, www.
ars.pl. Box office open 30 minutes before the first
showtime to 30 minutes after the last showtime. Tickets
10-20z.
29.04 FRIDAY 19:00

GIDON KREMER
Excitement for classical music aficionados - Grammywinning Jewish-Latvian classical violinist and conductor
Gidon Kremer is coming to the Krakw Congress Centre for
an evening of Andrzej Panufnik, Mieczysaw Weinberg, and
Dmitri Shostakovich with Sinfonietta Cracovia conducted
by Jurek Dyba.QB7, Krakw Congress Centre, ul. Marii
Konopnickiej 17. Tickets 40-60z. Available at www.
ticketpro.pl and Empik (Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul.
Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).
CINEMA CITY GALERIA KAZIMIERZ

QJ3, ul. Podgrska 34, tel. (+48) 12 254 54 54, www.
cinema-city.pl. Box office open 10:00 - 22:30. Tickets
17-33z.
IMAX KRAKW
QL2, Al. Pokoju 44, tel. (+48) 12 290 90 90, www.
cinema-city.pl. Box office open 30 minutes before the
first showtime to 15 minutes after the last showtime.
Tickets 33-35z.
KIJW.CENTRUM
QH3, Al. Krasiskiego 34, tel. (+48) 12 433 00 33, www.
kijow.pl. Box office open 10:00 - 20:30. Tickets 13-26z.
KINO POD BARANAMI
QC3, Rynek Gwny 27, tel. (+48) 12 423 07 68, www.
kinopodbaranami.pl. Box office open 45 minutes
before the first showtime until 15 minutes after the last
showtime. Tickets 11.90-22z. N
26.04 TUESDAY 19:00

LA SCALA CHAMBER ORCHESTRA
Cameristi della Scala are a chamber orchestra formed by
members of Teatro alla Scala, whose repertoire includes
lots of lesser-known or mostly-forgotten pieces from 19th
century Italy.QB7, Krakw Congress Centre, ul. Marii
Konopnickiej 17. Tickets 159-199z. Available at www.
eventim.pl and Empik (Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul. Pawia
5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).
Whats going on?

Culture & Events

10.04 SUNDAY 19:00, 17.04 SUNDAY 19:00, 24.04
SUNDAY 19:00
ORGAN MUSIC DAYS
This organ music festival has been around for a while started in 1966 in honor of Professor Bronisaw Rutkowski,
a renowned Polish organist, teacher, music critic,
composer, and conductor who died two years before, it
now celebrates its 50th anniversary! The 2016 edition will
feature concerts by Thomas Berning (Germany), Stanislav
urin (Slovakia), and Imrich Szab (Slovakia) taking place
at the Basilica of the Sacred Heart of Jesus at ul. Kopernika
26.QAdmission free.
EXHIBITIONS
01.03 TUESDAY - 15.05 SUNDAY
CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE CRAFTS
This exhibition showcases modern-day crafts from a
country with a long artistic and artisan tradition, influenced
over the ages by Chinese and Korean aesthetics. The
objects are grouped by material, historical period, and
artistic group.QB6, Manggha, ul. Konopnickiej 26, tel.
(+48) 12 267 27 03, www.manggha.pl. Open 10:00 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 20/15z, family ticket 35z.
21.03 MONDAY - 26.06 SUNDAY
DOLLS. FACES OF JAPANESE TRADITION
The impressive assortment of Japanese dolls and figurines
in this exhibition actually comes exclusively from Polish
collections, including the Museum of Dolls in Pilzno and
the Villa Japonica in Wisa - a testament to Poles relatively
high interest in Japanese crafts and aesthetic.QB6,
Manggha, ul. Konopnickiej 26, tel. (+48) 12 267 27 03,
www.manggha.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 20/15z, family ticket 35z.
05.05 THURSDAY - 14.08 SUNDAY
DONT DREAM ABOUT LOVE / KURYLUK
This exhibition features over fifty paintings completed by
Polish artist and writer Ewa Kuryluk between 1967 and
1978, on loan from National Museum branches in Warsaw
and Wrocaw, the Museum of Art in d, and the artists
own collection.QH3, National Museum, Main Building,
Al. 3 Maja 1, tel. (+48) 12 433 55 00, mnk.pl. Open 10:00
- 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Ticket prices
undecided at press time.
13.06 SATURDAY - 03.07 SUNDAY
FROM JAPAN TO EUROPE.
BEAUTIFUL AND USEFUL OBJECTS.
Feliks Manggha Jasieski, Polish art collector and critic,
amassed what was perhaps the largest collection of
Japanese artwork owned by any Pole. Upon his death
in 1929, he bequeathed over 6500 items to the National
Museum in Krakw, a mere fraction of which is currently
on display at the Szoayski House.QB2, Szoayski House,
Pl. Szczepaski 9, tel. (+48) 12 433 54 50, mnk.pl. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission
12/9z, family ticket 20z, Sun free.
April - May 2016
21
Culture & Events

22.04 FRIDAY - 25.09 SUNDAY
MAKING CONNECTIONS
MOCAK is celebrating the recent purchase of a few
Robert Devriendt works with an exhibition showcasing
a larger selection of the Belgian artists intense and
somewhat disturbing creations, temporarily on loan from
the Groeningemuseum in Bruges.QK4, Museum of
Contemporary Art, ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40
00, www.mocak.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 10/5z, Tue free.
MEDICINE IN ART
This is another exhibition in MOCAKs series presenting
mundane, everyday topics from an artistic point of view.
Medicine in Art takes a look at mortality, pain, therapy, the
psychology of illness, and ethical dilemmas surrounding
medical experiments.QK4, Museum of Contemporary Art,
ul. Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40 00, www.mocak.pl. Open
11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/5z, Tue free.
15.05.2016 SUNDAY 9:00

START AND FINISH AT THE MAIN SQUARE
THROUGH HISTORY
KRAKOW RUNNERS MEETING
13.05.2016 FRIDAY
NIGHT RUN
(10 KM)
14.05.2016 SATURDAY
RMF FM RUNS;
MINI CRACOVIA MARATHON
(4,2 KM);
CRACOVIA INLINE SKATING MARATHON
(42,195 KM);
ANIMATIONS AND ACTIVITIES
FOR CHILDREN
15.05.2016 SUNDAY
15. PZU CRACOVIA MARATHON
(42,195 KM)
WWW.PZUCRACOVIAMARATON.PL
ORGANIZER
TITULAR SPONSOR

TADEUSZ KANTOR.
EPISODE THREE. MARIONETTE
This is event number three in a four-part exhibition series
dedicated to Polish artist, director, set designer, and
founder of Cricot 2 Theatre - Tadeusz Kantor. The items
on display will include set props (including mannequins
and marionettes, naturally), sketches, photographs, and
short films created by the artist.QJ4, Cricoteka, ul.
Nadwilaska 2, tel. (+48) 12 442 77 70, www.news.
cricoteka.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission
10/5z, family ticket 15z.
03.03 THURSDAY - 08.05 SUNDAY
TEMPUS FUGIT. TIME AND TRANSIENCE
See how artists across the ages tackled transience in their
works - by contrasting the old and the young, depicting
ruins of once-flourishing cities, or utilising concrete poetry.
The exhibition will feature works by Giovanni Benedetto
Castiglione, Giovanni Battista Piranesi, Vclav Hollar,
Jacob de Gheyn III, Henricus Hondius, and various Polish
conceptualists including Stanisaw Drd and Roman
Opaka.QC3, International Cultural Centre, Rynek
Gwny 25, tel. (+48) 12 424 28 11, www.mck.krakow.
pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/6z,
family ticket 14z. Tue, Wed between 11:00 and 12:00
admission 1z.
WESELA 21
The Ethnographic Museum in Krakw decided to go
beyond their usual studies and research the phenomenon
of 21st-century Polish weddings - from sales proposals to
preparations to the celebrations themselves - to examine
what they say about contemporary times.QD7, Dom
Esterki, ul. Krakowska 46, tel. (+48) 12 430 60 23, www.
etnomuzeum.eu. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 10/6z.
Culture & Events

FESTIVALS

PKO OFF CAMERA
Off Camera is your yearly chance to catch up on
independent movies, underground cult masterpieces, and
up-and-coming filmmakers. The festival usually revolves
around Kino Pod Baranami (Rynek Gwny 27, C-3), with
a fair number of screenings taking place at Kino Kijw (Al.
Krasiskiego 34, H-3) and various small cinemas.Qwww.
offcamera.pl. Festival pass 100-300z.
FILM
18.04 MONDAY - 09.05 MONDAY
AFRYKAMERA AFRICAN FILM FESTIVAL
Afrykamera is a competitive film festival bringing the work
of African filmmakers to Poland and is the first festival of its
kind in the Central/Eastern European region. The organisers
point out that our usual perception of Africa is seen from
the viewpoint of Western directors, and presenting African
SINFONIETTA CRACOVIA
violin
conductor
JUREK DYBA
29.05 SUNDAY - 05.06 SUNDAY

KRAKW FILM FESTIVAL
Organised since 1961, this is one of the oldest film festivals in
Europe, and currently screens around 250 films from around
the world during eight festival days. Non-English language
movies will be shown with English subtitles. Tickets can
be purchased from all cinemas taking part in the festival:
those would be Kijw.Centrum (H-3, Al. Krasiskiego 34),
Mikro Cinema (H-2, ul. J. Lea 5), Agrafka Cinema (C-1, ul.
Krowoderska 8), and Kino Pod Baranami (C-3, Rynek Gwny
27).QH3, Kijw.Centrum, Al. Krasiskiego 34, tel. (+48)
12 433 00 33, www.krakowfilmfestival.pl. Tickets 8-16z,
festival pass 40-160z.
19.00
KREMER
18.04 MONDAY - 24.04 SUNDAY

INTERNATIONAL FESTIVAL
OF UKRAINIAN THEATRE
This is the third edition of a theatrical festival welcoming
ensembles from Ukraine and the Ukrainian diaspora in
Germany, Georgia, Poland, and Austria. The event takes
place in various locations, so make sure to check the
organisers facebook page for up-to-date information!
2016
GIDON
24.05 TUESDAY - 30.05 MONDAY

FILM MUSIC FESTIVAL
Some of the best symphonic music today is composed for
film, and it often goes without due recognition outside the
world of cinematography. Luckily, since it can and does
stand alone, film music concerts and festivals have grown
substantially in popularity. This 9th Film Music Festival will
feature a screening of Indiana Jones: Raiders of the Lost
Ark with a live soundtrack, music from The Witcher 3, and
much more.QB7, Krakw Congress Centre, ul. Marii
Konopnickiej 17, www.fmf.fm. Tickets 30-90z, festival
pass 140-380z. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik
(Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul. Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00,
Sun 10:00 - 21:00).
Andrzej Panufnik
Tragic Ouverture
Mieczysaw Weinberg
Violin Concerto, Op. 67
Dymitr Szostakowicz
Symphony No. 1 in F minor, Op. 10
ICE KRAKW CONGRESS CENTRE, THEATRE HALL,

KRAKW, UL. MARII KONOPNICKIEJ 17
60, 40 z regular
30 z discount
tickets: Eventim, InfoKrakw, Ticketpro.pl
www.sinfonietta.pl
April - May 2016
23
Culture & Events

INT. CULTURAL CENTRE
films seen through the lens of native filmmakers plays

a vital role in forming an accurate understanding of the
continent.Qwww.afrykamera.pl. For more information
check website.
15.04 FRIDAY 22:00
ENEMEF: NOC BATMANA
Part of the ENEMEF (Nocny Maraton Filmowy) series, this
nighttime movie marathon will be dedicated exclusively
to Batman, with the screening of four films: Batman v
Superman: The Dawn of Justice, Batman Begins, The
Dark Knight, and The Dark Knight Rises. Screened in
original English with Polish subtitles.QL1, Multikino, ul.
Dobrego Pasterza 128, tel. (+48) 12 298 46 24. Tickets
26-33z.
OPERA
Photo by P. Mazur.
INTERNATIONAL CULTURAL CENTRE

Temporary art exhibitions spotlighting foreign
visionaries, cities or cultures typically fill this major
gallery on the market square.QC3, Rynek Gwny 25,
tel. (+48) 12 424 28 11, www.mck.krakow.pl. Gallery
open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 30
minutes before closing. Admission to the gallery
10/6z, family ticket 14z. Tue, Wed between 11:00
and 12:00 admission 1z.
13.04 WEDNESDAY - 14.04 THURSDAY

TERESICA UNA PASIN
This theatrical chamber show conceived and directed by
Fred Apke combines Christian, Jewish, and Mauritanian
elements found in songs of the Spanish Renaissance.
Performed by Marta Klubowicz, Jan Monczka, and Krakw
Opera soloists.QE2, Krakw Opera, ul. Lubicz 48, tel.
(+48) 12 296 62 62, www.opera.krakow.pl. Tickets 35z.
Box office open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 2 hours before the
evening performance.
20.05 FRIDAY 18:30
THE TURK IN ITALY
This opera buffa in two acts by Gioachino Rossini is rarely
seen on Polish stages - indeed, this is the first time itll be
performed in Krakw. The work, a true comedy of errors,
is a convoluted story involving a Turkish prince, his former
lover, and a couple experiencing marital problems.QE2,
Krakw Opera, ul. Lubicz 48, tel. (+48) 12 296 62 62,
www.opera.krakow.pl. Tickets 28-120z. Box office
open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 2 hours before the evening
performance.
ROCK & POP CONCERTS
ON TIME AND
TRANSIENCE
2.03-8.05.2016
EXHIBITION
www.mck.krakow.pl
03.05 TUESDAY 20:00

HANS ZIMMER LIVE ON TOUR 2016
Truth is, if you watched any cinema, youve likely come
across music scores by German composer Hans Zimmer,
responsible for some of the most recognisable tracks
from over 150 films, including Interstellar, Pirates of
the Caribbean, Gladiator, Inception, The Dark Knight,
and the much-loved The Lion King. With four Grammy
Awards, two Golden Globes, and an Academy Award,
Hans really might be one of the top living geniuses
(as named by The Daily Telegraph). Now hes touring
Europe with a seemingly-unnamed orchestra.QA/B7,
Tauron Arena Krakw, ul. Stanisawa Lema 7. Tickets
179-299z. Available at www.eventim.pl and Empik
(Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul. Pawia 5; open 09:00 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).
Culture & Events

31.05 TUESDAY 18:00
IL DIVO
Simon Cowells classical crossover vocal group Il Divo (Divine
Performer) comprises Swiss singer Urs Bhler, Spaniard Carlos
Marn, American David Miller, and Frenchman Sbastien
Izambard. Their most recent, seventh studio album, Amor
& Pasin, was released last year.QA/B7, Tauron Arena
Krakw, ul. Stanisawa Lema 7. Tickets 279-379z. Available
at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul.
Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).
11.04 MONDAY 19:00
MARIAH CAREY
Yes, the We Belong Together and Without You R&B singer is
coming to Poland this April, as part of Sweet Sweet Fantasy,
her first European tour in thirteen years. Is it too late/early
for All I Want For Christmas Is You?QA/B7, Tauron Arena
Krakw, ul. Stanisawa Lema 7. Tickets 170-210z. Available
at www.eventim.pl and Empik (Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul.
Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).
17.04 SUNDAY 19:00
MARIZA
Fado diva Mariza rose to fame with a performance
dedicated to the memory of leading female fadista Amlia
Rodrigues, shortly after the famous singers death. Largely
credited with reviving the Portuguese music genre, Mariza
currently has eight albums to her name; her most recent,
Mundo, came out in 2015.QB7, Krakw Congress
Centre, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 17.
24.04 SUNDAY 20:00
NATALIA NYKIEL
A new face on the Polish music scene, singer-songwriter
Natalia Nykiel made it to the show finale of The Voice of
Poland in 2013 and came out with her debut album Lupus
Electro the following year, collaborating with a bunch
of Polish stars: Kasia Nosowska of Hey, Paulina Przybysz
of Sistars, Karolina Kozak, Jacek Budy Szymkiewicz of
Pogodno, and Micha Bunio Skrok of Dick4Dick. The
21-year-old artist was nominated for the 2015 MTV Europe
Music Awards, and her single Bd Duy (Be a Big Boy)
won the Eska TV Award for best music video of 2015.
QStudio Klub, ul. Budryka 4 (Krowodrza), tel. (+48) 12
617 45 45. Tickets 35-40z. Available at www.ticketpro.
pl and Empik (Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul. Pawia 5; open
09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).
19.04 TUESDAY 19:30
SELAH SUE
Sanne Putseys (stage name Selah Sue) is a Belgian singersongwriter and guitarist who does reggae, R&B, and soul.
She released her debut self-titled album in 2011, which
proved a big success, going quadruple platinum in Belgium
and gold in Poland. Album no. 2, Reason, came out in March
of last year.QStudio Klub, ul. Budryka 4 (Krowodrza), tel.
(+48) 12 617 45 45. Tickets 95-110z. Available at www.
ticketpro.pl and Empik (Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul.
Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).
April - May 2016
25
Culture & Events

LIVE MUSIC
01.04 FRIDAY - 31.05 TUESDAY

CHOPIN CONCERTS IN THE LEGENDARY
WIERZYNEK RESTAURANT
These special celebrations of Chopins musical legacy
run throughout the year and are performed by gifted
members of the Krakw Music Academy, many of whom
are laureates of international piano contests. The concerts
will take place Wednesday-Sunday each week of April
and daily in May.QC3, Wierzynek, Rynek Gwny 16,
tel. (+48) 12 424 96 00, www.newculture.pl. Concerts
start at 19:00. Tickets 60/40z, VIP 220z. Available at
City Information Point (ul. w. Jana 2, C-3; open 09:00
- 19:00) and at the venue before the concert begins.
03.04 SUNDAY - 31.05 TUESDAY
CLASSICAL AND FILM MUSIC AT ST. PETER &
PAULS CHURCH
A chance to hear a wonderful series of concerts in the
breathtaking surroundings of St. Peter & Pauls. The
event begins at 20.00 every Mon, Tue and Thu and one
can expect to hear a mixture of baroque, romance and
film music all performed by the Cracow City Orchestra.
QC4, Church of Saints Peter & Paul, ul. Grodzka
52a, tel. (+48) 12 350 63 65, www.newculture.pl.
Concerts start at 20:00. Tickets 60/40z. Available at
KRAKOW FOLK SHOW
So youve seen the castle, strolled through the Main
Square, eaten yourself into a pierogi coma - but
something seems missing? All you need is a little Polish
folk to wrap your experience up. Head over to Tradycyja
Restaurant to see the most popular Polish folk dances
like oberek, mazurek, polonaise, kujawiak, and krakowiak
(were in Krakw, after all!) and enjoy the beautiful
traditional costumes. The concerts will take place Fri and
Sat each week of April and Wed, Fri, Sat, Sun in May.QC3,
Tradycyja, Rynek Gwny 15, tel. (+48) 12 424 96 16,
www.newculture.pl. Concerts start at 19:00. Tickets
60z. Tickets with dinner included 120z. Available at
SPECIAL/MISCELLANEOUS
EVENTS
20.04 WEDNESDAY 19:30
FOLK DANCES FROM AROUND THE WORLD
The Hryhoriy Veryovka National Academic Ensemble of
Ukraine is putting on a show that is perhaps more Eurocentric than the name implies; itll involve the following
lively dances performed in colorful traditional attire:
Polish Kujawiak and Oberek, Slovak Vasilevo cyfry,
Romanian Invartita, Hungarian Czrds, Tatar Emir-djelial
ve Hajtarma, Spanish Hota, and more.QB4, Krakw
Philharmonic, ul. Zwierzyniecka 1, tel. (+48) 12 619 87
33. Tickets 90-150z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and
Empik (Galeria Krakowska, D-1, ul. Pawia 5; open 09:00 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00).
14.03 MONDAY - 30.09 FRIDAY
GLASS FORMING SHOWS
See beautiful glass creations come alive before your eyes

at the Glass and Ceramics Centre on ul. Lipowa. Skilled
artisans will be demonstrating the five stages of glass
forming and answering all your questions. Check out the
exhibition when youre there, as well.QK4, Lipowa 3
Glass & Ceramics Centre, ul. Lipowa 3, tel. (+48) 12 423
67 90, www.lipowa3.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 14:00. Closed Sun. Admission 14/12z.
JUWENALIA
Juwenalia are an annual holiday for college students
- an age-old tradition, but celebrated with undying
enthusiasm year after year. Since they take place shortly
before final exams, they offer the young and restless a
last chance to let loose and party like theres no tomorrow
before hitting the books. There will be parades, open-air
concerts, performances and binge-drinking; if hordes of
cacophonous and flashily dressed college students arent
really your thing, you might want to get out of the city for
a few days.
Get the In Your Pocket

City Essentials App
Culture & Events

MOTO SHOW
See the best of new releases, heavily-tuned vehicles, zippy
sports cars, and professionals doing eye-popping stunts in
this two-day expo featuring over 250 exhibitors (and likely
attracting over 25,000 fans).QEXPO Krakw, ul. Galicyjska
9 (Czyyny), tel. (+48) 12 644 59 32. Tickets 25z, pass
35z. Available at www.ticketpro.pl and Empik (Galeria
Krakowska, D-1, ul. Pawia 5; open 09:00 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 21:00).
13.05 FRIDAY
NIGHT OF MUSEUMS
The first Long Night of Museums took place in Berlin in
1997, and the concept spread through Europe like wildfire:
currently over 120 major European cities (and many minor
ones) organise their own museum nights. Krakw, with
its bounty of museums and cultural institutions, could be
no different; and, thinking of the tourists, the city decided
to hold the event a night early, giving those interested a
chance to attend another one the following day (Warsaw,
maybe?).QAdmission free.
SPORT
15.05 SUNDAY 09:00
CRACOVIA MARATHON
Lace up your running shoes and put your stamina to the
test! The 15th Cracovia Marathon will start on the Main
Square and take you through city streets on both sides
of the Vistula River. Not only can you use all that training,
its also a great opportunity to interact with the locals
and make your visit truly unique. Its May, so the weather
should be pretty nice.QC3, Main Market Square, www.
cracoviamaraton.pl. Registration fee 70-200z.
Every Wednesday, Friday,

Saturday and Sunday
Time: 7. pm
16.04 SATURDAY 12:00

MEMORY RUN
The annual 5K Memory Run is organised by the Historical
Museum of Krakw to commemorate the victims of WWII
and the Holocaust. The route passes near three historical sites
and museum branches: the former Gestapo headquarters
at Ulica Pomorska, the Eagle Pharmacy (Apteka Pod Orem)
located in the former Jewish Ghetto, and Oscar Schindlers
Factory.QH1, Ulica Pomorska, ul. Pomorska 2, tel. (+48)
12 633 14 14. Registration fee 25-40z.
THEATRE
09.05 MONDAY 19:00
NATIONAL THEATRE LIVE - THE AUDIENCE
Screenwriter Peter Morgan and actress Helen Mirren are
back, expanding on their acclaimed 2006 film The Queen to
turn it into an equally successful stage production. The play
is directed by Oscar nominee Stephen Daldry (known from
Billy Elliot and The Hours), and will be shown in the original
English version with Polish subtitles.QL1, Multikino, ul.
Dobrego Pasterza 128, tel. (+48) 12 298 46 24, www.
multikino.pl. Tickets 35/30z.
April - May 2016
27
Restaurants
With the development of the market in Krakow the number

of places to eat is now extremely wide, and while the citys
culinary rep is improving all the time, its restaurants are still
waiting for starry-eyed acceptance from a certain French
tyre company. That said, there are more good restaurants
to visit in this town than you could possibly fit in one trip,
so fear not, you wont have to eat tyres.
While our print guide carries a wide selection of Krakws
most noteworthy restaurants, there are many, many more
listed on our website (krakow.inyourpocket.com), where
we encourage you to leave your own reviews of the places
youve visited. All IYP reviews are updated regularly, completely subjective and unsolicited. The figures we quote in
brackets represent the cheapest and costliest main courses
on the menu. The opening hours we list are given to us by
the restaurants but are rough guidelines as to when you can
expect the chef to be working. Smacznego!
SPLURGE
Wierzynek (p.54) is Krakws oldest and most upscale
restaurant, right on the Rynek. Close behind is Pod
Anioami (p.52), while the sophisticated wine lists and
seasonal cuisine of Copernicus (p.34) and Trzy Rybki
(p.38) are also both bankable for your best meal while in
town. Szara (p.37) - with locales on both the market square
and in Kazimierz - also never disappoints.
CHEAP
A Polish milk bar (p.50) is as cheap as youll eat anywhere
in your life, but for a pinch of atmosphere try Smakoyki
(p.54). If youre not a fan of Polish food, Alebriche (p.44)
and Zazie Bistro (p.31) are both excellent values.
LADS
Take up a stein, tuck in your bib and feast like a king
for pauper prices in Bierhalle (p.33) or Restauracja
Sukiennice (p.52), where the food spills off the edges of
the plate. To literally recieve a bib with your food, order
the outstanding ribs at Rzenia (p.30). For bender fuel late
into the night or first thing in the morning, try Bulldog
Bar (p.59).
FAMILIES
Slowly but surely, more and more places in Krakw now
have things like changing tables, high chairs, and play
corners - look for the Child-Friendly symbol T at the
end of each listing. Nothing in town beats Pod Wawelem
(p.52), however, which has a huge rumpus room for kids
and food that theyll eat.
COUPLES
Krakw is a marvellous backdrop for romance and you
shouldnt have to search far for the perfect place. Make
a reservation in ZaKadka (p.31), Pod Nosem (p.50),
Bottiglieria 1881 (p.65), Aqua i Wino (p.40) or Bianca
(p.40) and let the atmosphere do the rest.
SPECIAL DIET
For vegans, vegetarians and health-conscious foodies,
the street of choice in the Old Town is ul. Krupnicza (A2), where youll find Sissi Organic Bistro (p.36), Karma
(p.56) and Pod Norenami (p.55); in Kazimierz head to Plac
Wolnica (D-7), home to Cafe Mynek (p.54) and Nova
Krova (p.55). For traditional Polish food thats assuredly
gluten-free, visit Pod Baranem (p.50).
Restaurants
SYMBOL KEY
G No smoking
T Child-friendly
6 Animal friendly
N Credit cards not accepted
S Take away
U Facilities for the disabled
V Home delivery
X Smoking room available
E Live music
W Wi-fi connection
B Outdoor seating
AMERICAN
GRANDE GRILL
Contrasting with the inflexible traditionalism of Wierzynek,
this fresher effort from the same team behind Krakws
most famous restaurant balances modern styling and
cuisine with its medieval setting. The year-round patio
garden packed with plants hanging from timber beams has
long been regarded as one of the best in town, and a stylish
indoor dining area, occasional rock/blues concerts, and live
sports on the tele offer extra motivation for a visit. The
menu is a simple selection of steaks, salads and burgers, all
expertly made-to-order with the kind of service you would
expect from the citys most established restaurateurs.
grandegrill.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (29-89z). TUE
GBW
HARD ROCK CAFE
The international Hard Rock Cafe chain has set up shop
on some of the citys most hallowed ground next to
St. Marys Basilica. Inside youll find an absurdly large
number of staff members milling around amongst rock
memorabilia including a pair of Elton Johns spectacles
to an unplayable home-made guitar from Polish legends
T. Love. Featuring a modern interior stacked over three
levels, stop by to enjoy an expertly mixed drink and a
juicy burger while gazing at a scarf John Lennon once
wore.QC3, Rynek Gwny/Pl. Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12
429 11 55, www.hardrock.com/krakow. Open 11:00 23:30, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:30. (20-90z). T6U
GBW
MOO MOO STEAK & BURGER CLUB
On first glance this club looks exclusive indeed, with
runway waitresses, collared clientele and a minimal,
modern monochromatic interior that looks more designed
for a romantic date than spreading your face over a beef
patty (and vice versa). The new menu reveals a varied array
of refined options from salmon to shrimp, with a bigger
emphasis on choice steaks than burgers - the range of
which has been reduced to 8 options, but which remain
large enough so that when cut in half you actually have
what would pass for two burgers in most places. The
reasonable prices and random music playlist make this
April - May 2016
29
Restaurants
place a lot less pretentious than it first appears, however,
and its one we enjoy coming back to.QD3, ul. witego
Krzya 15, tel. (+48) 792 43 83 04, www.moomoo.com.
pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (18-75z).
UGBSW
RZENIA - RIBS ON FIRE
This small meatery offers a concise menu of carnivore
cravings - tartar, blood pudding, sausage and ribs, with
sides of fries and slaw, and a good selection of bottled
beers. Though that sounds like something youd find
written on the side of a food truck, this place has more class
than that with a red-flecked interior that looks could pass
for a Spanish tapas bar in a pinch, and a huge flatscreen
tele so the lads can watch league action. Order the ribs (no,
really - order the ribs) and you get the entire rack, not a
sawn-off section, and we guarantee youll be sucking the
bones clean. The coleslaw is also the best weve had in this
cabbage crazy country. Tuck in your bib (theyll provide
you with one) and give this a try.QD6, ul. Boego Ciaa
14, tel. (+48) 12 430 62 96, www.restauracjarzeznia.pl.
Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (19-59z).
UVGSW
ASIAN
NEW
HURRY CURRY
Though the name suggests a takeaway window or food
truck, this surprising slow food franchise has been a hit in
Katowice and their Krakw locale features a large, open
and appealing interior with multiple terraces and a full
menu of Indian/Asian eats. Essentially an encyclopaedia of
world curries, choose from over 20 varieties varying in spice
quotient and country of origin, plus other signature world
dishes like Tom Yum and Beef Rendang, and beers from
Thailand, China and Japan. With so much menu to explore
and everything super affordable, multiple visits are almost
a given, and unlike most curry establishments, rice and
papadum actually come included with your meal.QC3,
ul. Szpitalna 9 (entrance from ul. w.Tomasza), tel. (+48)
728 42 82 26, www.hurrycurry.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri,
Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (12-33z). T6UGBSW
NINE KITCHEN
When stacked against its ample competition, this modern
sushi and Asian fusion restaurant has plenty going for it.
The menu is easily parsable rather than overwhelming, with
sound English translations, sharable dishes for under 30z,
and no less than 15 signature rolls of their own creation.
Making it all the more pleasing is a relaxing atmosphere
and some nifty design touches including walls lined with
birch tree trunks, Lost Army wallpaper, and innovative
light fixtures. Overall, the prices are below-market, which
isnt to say that you wouldnt want to bring your business
partners and dates here, but rather - you should.QD6, ul.
Miodowa 9, tel. (+48) 536 70 57 06, www.ninekitchen.pl.
Open 12:30 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:30 - 23:00. (9-49z).
T6UGSW
Restaurants
FRENCH
LA FONTAINE
The courtyard terrace is the pick of places to eat at La
Fontaine, though the interior of rough hewn stone walls
and brick arches has a perfectly pleasing elegance as
well when theres a gale outside. Here delicious French
delicacies are served by a well-trained staff who actually
appear to enjoy what they do. So does the chef, clearly,
as he turns out such wonderful dishes as tournedos with
potato casserole and a bearnaise, wine, or roquefort sauce.
Home to some of the citys most outstanding cuisine
and an excellent wine cellar, its easy to understand why
this veteran restaurant has received so many awards and
remains a mainstay of the local restaurant scene after so
many years.QC3, ul. Sawkowska 1, tel. (+48) 12 422 65
64, www.lafontaine-restaurant.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00.
(25-69z). XW
ZAKADKA - FOOD & WINE
Located in a restored tenement just over the Bernatka
footbridge in Podgrze, this thoroughly classy French-style
bistro strikes the perfect balance of modern elegance,
exciting upscale cuisine and below market prices to make
it outrageously popular. The new menu changes seasonally
and tackles French delicacies and regional Polish dishes
with equal respect and aplomb, including fresh mussels,
smoked trout, snail casserole, veal tongue, salmon tartare
and grilled octopus in the rotation. Prices are absolutely
pedestrian when one considers the skill of each meals
preparation and presentation. A perfect date destination,
from the moment you step inside Zakadka seemingly
everything - from the sharp black and white interior to
the excellent food and wine (the owner even has his own
vineyard) - becomes an aphrodisiac; make a reservation
now.QJ4, ul. Jzefiska 2, tel. (+48) 12 442 74 42, www.
zakladkabistro.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00; Fri, Sat 12:00 23:00; Sun 12:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. (23-48z). TG
BW
La Fontaine
Full Center Old Town

The best of the french cusine
Tel: +48 12 431 09 30 /48 12 422 65 64
www.lafontaine-restaurant.pl
lafontaine@lafontaine.com.pl
ul. Szpitalna 9, 31-024 Krakw

tel. 728 428 226
www.facebook.com/hurrycurrykrakow
Curries from all over the world
ZAZIE BISTRO
While no stranger to fine French dining, this casual
Kazimierz eatery is actually the closest thing Krakw
has to a true Parisian bistro - complete with classic set
meals (including an appetiser, main and dessert) for an
affordable 29z, fantastic creme brulee, quiche that you
can order by size (from 1/8th to the whole pie) and even
escargot. Set over two levels, the ground floor tries its
luck at looking like a Parisian sidewalk terrace with a
wall-length mural of Frances famous phallus, interior
streetlights and even a candy-striped roll-out canopy
over one table; head to the cellar for a more romantic
atmosphere of candlelight and wine racks. With the head
chef racking up culinary awards, this is a great place to
experience outstanding French cuisine without a whiff of
snobbery, and an excellent value for your money.QE6,
ul. Jzefa 34, tel. (+48) 500 41 08 29, www.zaziebistro.
pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Mon 17:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 24:00. (29-43z). T6GSW
April - May 2016
31
Restaurants
GEORGIAN
THE BEST INDIAN

CUISINE IN TOWN
We invite you to enjoy

our original Indian dishes.
Catering service available.
Ul. Sawkowska 13-15, phone: 012
4232282, www.indus.pl, indus@indus.pl
Open 12:00-22:00, Fri-Sat 12:00-24:00
TA
A
DI
F IN
O
E
ST
May Rynek 2-3, 31-041 Krakow
reservations +48 12 4214756, mail: manager@indiamasala.pl
www.indiamasala.pl
NEW
SMAKI GRUZJI
Slyly tucked away in Kazimierz (presumably where proRussian separatists wont be able to find it), this modest
Georgian eatery is actually one of the citys hidden gems.
Enjoy Eurasian dishes like roasted pork and lamb, stuffed
grape leaves, Georgian meat dumplings (khinkali),
khachapuri, traditional kharcho soup, and baked salmon,
plus of course plenty of cheap Georgian wine for only 7z/
glass, or starting from 38z/bottle. The menu is admittedly
meat-heavy, but - fear not - there are also vegan dishes
like the eggplant rolls with walnut-garlic puree. Delicious,
ridiculously affordable and basically the perfect ethnic
food experience, gather some friends together and enjoy
your own supra - the Georgian tradition of social feasting.
QD6, ul. Dietla 33 (entrance from Augustiaska), tel.
(+48) 883 43 34 23, www.smaki-gruzji.pl. Open 12:00 21:00. (15-35z). GSW
INDIAN
NEW
INDIA MASALA
As the new mainstay now anchoring May Rynek, this
authentic effort from the same team behind Krakws
top Indian eatery features popular patio seating and a
colourful interior infused with the scent of cardamom from
the kitchen and sweet tobacco from the exotic hookah
bar in the basement. The name may be India Masala, but
the menu represents a wide range of regions across India
with delicious dishes well-explained in English and wellpresented in traditional metal bowls. As you might guess,
weekday afternoons are the perfect time to enjoy this place
with lunch sets of 4 or 5 dishes for 14-30z served 12:00
- 16:00.QC3, May Rynek 2-3, tel. (+48) 12 421 47 56,
www.indiamasala.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00. (13-45z). 6GBSW

City Essentials App
INDUS TANDOOR
Full of reds, golds, greens and lotus patterns, Induss slim
interior is bursting with colour, but its the spacious fabricdraped summer garden that we prefer when the weathers
warm. The near constant people filing in and out speaks to
the high quality of the food, and while spice levels rarely
threaten to reach volcanic, Indus is a vast improvement on
the ethnic experience of yesteryear. Try the business lunch
specials (Mon-Fri 12:00 - 16:00) for a fantastic value; orders
placed Mon-Thu after 16:00 receive a free appetiser.QC2,
ul. Sawkowska 13-15, tel. (+48) 12 423 22 82, www.
indus.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (1345z). VGSW
Restaurants
INTERNATIONAL
ALCHEMIA OD KUCHNI
An extension of the legendary bar of the same name,
Alchemia od Kuchni serves a spot-on menu of sitdown street food, burgers, vegetarian eats and eclectic
entrees including fish pie, falafel and more. Open late
and also open early (see Breakfast), everything weve
tried has been great, essentially making od Kuchni our
favourite thing about Alchemia these days. The simple,
white tile and brick aesthetic is reminiscent of NYC or
Copenhagens meatpacking districts, the prices wont
divest you of your beer money, and the service is light
years ahead of the bar next door. The team behind this
place obviously cares, rather than just cashing in on the
location and crowds; cheers to that.QD6, ul. Estery 5,
tel. (+48) 882 04 42 99, www.odkuchni.com. Open
08:00 - 23:00, Mon 10:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 24:00.
(13-39z). GSW
BIERHALLE
This familiar tourist-friendly franchise lives up to its name,
bringing its Oktoberfest atmosphere to Krakws May
Rynek. At Bierhalle they brew their own, offering 3 different
ales most commonly ordered by the litre, but you can also
go gorilla with a 5l barrel. The beer-friendly franchise menu
of German bratwurst, breaded cutlets and dumplings
has been recently expanded and improved by star chef
Kurt Scheller (and his stellar moustache), all while staying
affordable, and open late as well. A helpful multi-lingual
menu, nice service, and TVs streaming sports in every room
make it a lads magnet, but we found Krakws locale to be
less rowdy and more refined than expected. This is one of
those happy cases where success seems to have actually
improved the brand.QC3, May Rynek 7, tel. (+48) 517
38 26 42, www.bierhalle.pl. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri 09:00
- 02:00, Sat 10:00 - 02:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. (10-60z).
TUGBSW
NEW
BONEROWSKA GOURMET STEAK & FISH
Located on the ground floor of a historic palace on
Krakws market square, Bonerowskis pedigree promises
the type of dining experience where theres more cutlery
on the table than you know what to do with, St. Marys
bugle call can be heard from your rose-laden table, and
the waiter half-bows after taking your order. Crystal
chandeliers and the gorgeous timber ceiling exude
elegance, but an over-abundance of pastel floral patterns
bring a Baroque church too close to mind. The menu of
fresh fish and pricey steaks is aimed straight at the padded
pocketbooks of the older tourists who almost exclusively
populate the tables, and while our shrimp bisque was
delicious, we were a bit disappointed by the entrees.
Nonetheless, its hard to think of a better place to take your
mum for Mothers Day.QC3, Rynek Gwny 42/ul. w.
Jana 1 (The Bonerowski Palace), tel. (+48) 12 374 13
10, www.palacbonerowski.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (35100z). TUGSW
April - May 2016
33
Restaurants
BREAKFAST
BAGELMAMA
Kazimierzs favourite bagel spot, with a range of
different toppings and cream cheeses. Plus, drip coffee,
wraps, homemade soups, a killer breakfast burrito
and more - served all day, naturally.QE6, ul. Dajwr
10, tel. (+48) 12 346 16 46, www.bagelmama.com.
Open 09:00 - 17:00. (4-20z). T6GSW
CAMELOT
This charming cafe has breakfast written all over it,
which is perhaps why they serve it all day long. The
large menu features breakfast sets with scrambled eggs,
paninis, baguettes, cakes and more, plus plenty of hot
drinks and other treats. Full of light and rustic charm you
may find yourself spending the entire day here.QC3,
ul. w. Tomasza 17, tel. (+48) 12 421 01 23. Open
09:00 - 24:00. (17-25z). 6NGBSW
CHARLOTTE. CHLEB I WINO
Early risers wont find any better place in the Old Town
than Charlotte, which offers great coffee, fresh bread,
pastries, a variety of breakfast sets (served all day) and
a wonderful atmosphere all day. High ceilinged and full
of natural light from wall-length windows overlooking
Plac Szczepaski this is a great place to read the paper,
open the laptop or slowly unwind the day ahead of
you.QB2, Pl. Szczepaski 2, tel. (+48) 600 80 78 80,
www.bistrocharlotte.com. Open 07:00 - 24:00, Fri
07:00 - 01:00, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 09:00 - 22:00.
(9-18z). 6GSW
MILKBAR TOMASZA
With half the menu devoted to early morning eats,
Milk Bar is an astute place to start the day. Select from
a range of scrambled, fried, and even poached(!) egg
platters, crepes and paninis, and their excellent Irish
breakfast, served all day.QD3, ul. w. Tomasza 24, tel.
(+48) 12 422 17 06. Open 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 20:00. Closed Mon. (10-18z). TUGSW
SCANDALE ROYAL
Mornings in Scandale Royal feature a full breakfast buffet,
or order a la carte and choose from two pages of exciting
breakfast options, including eggs, omelettes, pancakes,
and a solid English breakfast. If you consider breakfast
a proper meal, this is one of the best places in town to
go.QB2, Pl. Szczepaski 2, tel. (+48) 12 422 13 33,
www.scandale.pl. Open 07:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 02:00, Breakfast served until 13:00. (11-27z). BSW
COPERNICUS
Inside one of Krakws most exclusive hotels youll find
one of its most exclusive restaurants, with high-class
service inside an elegant gothic interior that features
original frescoes. Copernicus is enthusiastically awarded
each year, and its gourmet cuisine has been enjoyed by
Nobel Prize winners (Miosz, Szymborska) and political
dignitaries (Vaclav Havel, Helmut Kohl) alike. The menu
changes every month and is kept simple by Chef Marcin
Filipkiewicz who offers a tasting menu of amazing seasonal
flavours; choose between 5 (180z), 7 (240z) or 12 courses
(350z). At Copernicus you get what you pay for, making it
easy to recommend for those on a royal budget.QC5, ul.
Kanonicza 16 (Copernicus Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 424 34 21,
www.hotel.com.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. TGBSW
ENOTEKA PERGAMIN
The latest effort from Pergamin combines everything
needed for any occasion into one location. On the ground
floor its an affordable family bistro where the chefs are at
work behind a long deli counter of local delicacies used
to create delicious cheese and meat plates, brick-fired
pizzas, sandwiches and fresh seafood dishes. Meanwhile,
the upscale cellar features its own dining card and three
tasting menus, plus a classy cigar room and cosy wine
and cocktail bar. With a huge wine cellar, not only can the
sommelier recommend the perfect bottle for your meal,
but the bartender is one of the best mixed-drink men in
town. Also functioning as a delicatessen and wine shop,
Enoteka Pergamin is basically whatever you want it to be,
but also one of the few places we know where you can
really splash out on a nice bottle of wine and still enjoy an
affordable meal.QC4, ul. Grodzka 39, tel. (+48) 797 70
55 15, www.enotekapergamin.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00.
(17-199z). XSW
PINO
Though its a bit ironic (if not outright silly) to take a historic
Old Town townhouse and make it look like a warehouse
with a modern post-industrial interior, such are the todays
trends, and PINO actually pulls it off beautifully. Full of
i-beams, wrought iron and exposed brick - and featuring
a mezzanine level, open kitchen, pizza oven and seasonal
patio dining - the space is exceedingly well-designed and
wonderful for casual meetings, family dinners, or afterwork cocktails and beers. The range of the menu covers
pizza (recommended), pasta, burgers, seafood, ribs and
steaks, you name it - and everything is made on-site,
from the burger buns to the ice cream. Affordable and
delicious, the service is great, and this is definitely one
of our new favourite places in the Old Town. Try it.QB3,
ul. Szczepaska 4, tel. (+48) 609 01 50 16, www.
restauracjapino.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00. (28-69z). GBW
Write your own reviews at

TRADITIONAL BEER
DELICIOUS DOWN TO THE LAST
DROP
POLISH CUISINE
SO TASTY THAT YOU WON'T WA
NT TO LEAVE THE TABLE
AN UNFORGETTABLE AND MAGICAL ATMOSPHERE

- GUARANTEED !!!
VISIT US AT BIERHALLE IN KRAKW

MAY RYNEK 7
KRAKW
+48 517 382 642
WWW.BIERHALLE.PL
Restaurants
POLISH VODKA
The Poles have been producing and drinking vodka

since the early Middle Ages, distilling their skill into some
of the best vodka blends available in the world. The two
most highly regarded clear Polish vodka brands must be
Belvedere and Chopin, both of which youll find in any
alcohol shop. But you wont find many tipplers throwing
them back at the bar. While clear vodkas are generally
reserved for weddings and mixed drinks, the real fun of
Polish vodka sampling is the flavoured vodkas, the most
popular of which we describe below.
WINIWKA
Undoubtedly the most common flavoured vodka,
winiwka is cheap and cherry-flavoured. Youll see
students and pensioners alike buying trays of it at
the bar, as well as toothless tramps sharing a bottle in
corners of tenement courtyards. A splash of grapefruit
juice is often added to cut the sweetness of this bright
red monogamy cure.
ODKOWA GORZKA
Due to its very name, which translates to something
like Bitter Stomach Vodka, odkowa Gorzka gives
even the most infirm of health an excuse to drink under
the guise of its medicinal properties. An aged, ambercoloured vodka flavoured with herbs and spices,
odkowa is incredibly palatable and best enjoyed
when sipped on ice.
KRUPNIK
A sweet vodka made from honey and a multitude of
herbs. Buy a bottle for Mum drinking vodka doesnt
get any easier than this. In winter, hot krupnik is a
popular personal defroster with hot water, lemon and
mulling spices added.
UBRWKA
One of Polands most popular overseas vodka exports,
ubrwka has been produced in Eastern Poland since
the 16th century. Flavoured with a type of grass specific
to Biaowiea Forest (a blade of which appears in each
bottle), ubrwka is faint yellow in colour, with a mild
fragrance and taste of mown hay. Delightfully smooth as
it is on its own, ubrwka is most commonly combined
with apple juice a refreshing concoction called a tatanka.
PLAC NOWY 1
Located in a new building buttressing Plac Nowy,
well admit we initially disapproved of this project, but
we never imagined it would be pulled off with this
much elan. Adapted to its surroundings while subtly
outclassing them, Plac Nowy 1 features a lovely modern
interior full of natural light and plant life. With plenty
of space, patrons have their choice between the highceilinged main dining room, sidewalk tables, covered
patio, or mezzanine, and theres even bowling in the
basement. The menu wanders across cuisines to follow
recent food trends (fancy burgers, tempura), but includes
uniquely modern takes on Polish classics as well, and
they put a big emphasis on craft beer, offering regional
beer tasting sets. Earning wide approval, this is arguably
now the nicest place to eat on Plac Nowy.QD6, Pl.
Nowy 1, tel. (+48) 12 442 77 00, www.placnowy1.pl.
Open 09:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. (2665z). TUGSW
SCANDALE ROYAL
Scandale Royal successfully skirts the line between lounge,
cafe and bistro by being one of the most stylish places
to be all day and night. In more shades of violet than we
knew possible, it nonetheless stays well-lit and inviting
thanks to wall-length windows and a massive chandelier
bisecting the two floors like a fragile fire-pole. On the
card youll find salads, pastas, and meat dishes to taste,
with proper breakfast in the mornings and an after 22:00
menu (featuring tapas) late night, when everything inside
from the cushions to the clientele looks edible.QB2, Pl.
Szczepaski 2, tel. (+48) 12 422 13 33, www.scandale.
pl. Open 07:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 - 01:00. (24-59z).
TBXSW
SISSI ORGANIC BISTRO
This wonderful restaurant emphasises healthy eating
and organic ingredients (including their own jams,
locally-sourced meat, and their own fresh-baked bread)
to create exquisite fusion dishes that change regularly.
Complemented by choice bottled beers and an excellent
wine selection, theres really nothing we cant recommend
from the stellar soups to the unique sandwiches, and their
homemade ice cream is out-of-this-world. The pleasing
interior of blonde woods includes a lovely seasonal garden,
the staff exude confident professionalism, and the prices
are curiously low for such an elegant experience. Each
time weve visited weve witnessed other patrons literally
gushing at their tables over what a pleasant surprise this
place is.QB2, ul. Krupnicza 3, tel. (+48) 602 23 45 55,
www.sissibistro.pl. Open 08:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:30 24:00. (10-79z). 6GBSW
STUDIO QULINARNE
Housed inside an old bus hangar on the site of the City
Engineering Museum, Studio Qulinarne has taken this
airy industrial interior of bricks and timbers and turned
it into one of Krakws most elegant dining destinations.
Potted plants and illuminated white drapes cleverly
Restaurants
hang between fine table settings with refreshingly
mismatched 18th century chairs as a pianist plays in the
main dining area, and the chefs oversee sizzling pans in
the open kitchen. The air of exclusivity is diffused by walllength windows opening onto the street in fair weather,
and the summer garden full of greenery and futons
- one of the most comfortable places for a cocktail in
town. The menu ranges from affordable pasta dishes to
pricey exotic game, and we can recommend not only the
venison, but the entire experience.QE7, ul. Gazowa 4,
tel. (+48) 12 430 69 14, www.studioqulinarne.pl. Open
12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (40-90z). T6
UEGBSW
SZARA
Enviably located right on the market square, Szaras
reputation as one of the best restaurants in town
hasnt wavered over the years and if youre looking for
a place to impress guests or treat yourself to a special
last night in town meal, this is a sure bet. Gorgeous,
painted ceiling arches, crisp linen and outstanding
service create an atmosphere of complete elegance,
but Szara manages to avoid the stuffiness suffered by
other venues of this ilk. Case in point: their modern and
casual bar just next door is a smart place to start the
day (breakfast served 08:00-12:00), or enjoy a coctail in
the evening.QC3, Rynek Gwny 6, tel. (+48) 12 421
66 69, www.szara.pl. Open 08:00 - 23:00. (34-85z).
UGBSW
SZARA KAZIMIERZ
Opening after its sister establishment on the Rynek, the
second Szara achieved local legend status just as quickly.
What makes it so special is not the convenient location
on Szeroka, nor the swift and bubbly staff, but the food:
nowhere in the city can you eat so well for so little. This
is top cuisine - try the daily specials chalked up on the
blackboard - yet it comes in at bargain prices. Simple,
affordable and very cheerful, all of Krakw should be like
this.QE6, ul. Szeroka 39, tel. (+48) 12 429 12 19, www.
szarakazimierz.pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00. (24-73z). GB
SW
TRADYCYJA
Though somewhat haunted by the spectres of past
incarnations (a pizza oven in the corner goes largely
unused), theres no need to mess with this historic market
square locale, which oddly blends old Polish aristocracy
with Roman antiquity, including a beautifully painted
timber ceiling and an outrageously gaudy chandelier
(which we love for just that reason). Like the interior, the
simple menu of Polish and Italian dishes seems to have
collected the highlights of previous kitchens, but the
results cover for the sometimes uneven service, and the
prices are well within reason. Keep an ear out for semifrequent live folk music and dance performances.QC3,
Rynek Gwny 15, tel. (+48) 12 424 96 16, www.
tradycyja.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00. (20-59z). TUE
GBW
April - May 2016
37
Restaurants
FOOD TRUCKS
Food trucks are the latest culinary trend to roll into
PL, and Cracovians have taken to the idea of meals on
wheels with zeal. Unfortunately, theyve basically been
kept out of the Old Town, so youll have to trek down to
Kazimierz in order to enjoy eating off of your lap. We list
the citys food truck parks below.
DAJWR 21 FOOD TRUCK PARK
Though lacking some of the size and scenesters of
Skwer Judah, this new gravel lot for food trucks, beach
chairs and palette tables has a similar vibe, and its
success is secure thanks to a tourist-friendly location
across from Galicia Jewish Museum. Most of the food
trucks here do lunch elsewhere, so note the late open
times. On our last visit we found Calavera Mexican Grill
(recommended), Zacny Burger, Flamingos (wraps and
salads), Gruzja Na Kkach (Georgian) and Naturalne
Frytki (fries), and theres also the Armon Bar in the back
of the lot, which basically uses the space as its beer
garden.QE6, ul. Dajwr 21. Open 15:00 - 22:00.
FOOD TRUCK SQUARE
Food trucks are the latest Polish food fad, and Skwer
Judah in Kazimierz - so named after the massive street
mural that adorns it - provides the parking for this
culinary trend. Here youll find several meals on wheels
to choose from, and in warm weather beach chairs,
benches and palettes are placed all over this concrete
pitch, making it one of the coolest places in town to
catch some quick grub. Tenants change often, but
during our most recent visit the options included Big
Red Busterant (a vintage UK double-decker bus with
upstairs seating, serving soup, sausage, and fish and
chips), Frytki Belgijskie (Belgian-style fries), Boogie Truck
(burgers, paninis), Pan Kumpir (loaded jacket potatoes),
Andrus Food Truck (serving maczanka - the Cracovian
pulled pork sandwich), Kocham Naleniki (crepes),
Yatai (sushi), Wizana Kawa (coffee) and Chimney Cake
Bakery. Opening hours and availability vary with each, of
course, but most are open roughly 12:00 - 22:00; Sat, Sun
12:00 - 24:00 (note that there are fewer venues open on
Monday).QE6, Skwer Judah, ul. w Wawrzyca 16.
TRZY RYBKI
Hotel Stary won an interior design award in 2007 and the
interiors of its ace restaurant are no less awe-inspiring,
balancing modern style with the expertly preserved
details of this ancient building. Serving fine Modern
European cuisine with a Polish twist, the menu changes
like the seasons - or with them, rather, meaning a steady
effort from the kitchen to use the freshest ingredients.
Favoured by high-flyers and local business honchos who
have been regulars for years, this is a Krakw gem.QC2,
ul. Szczepaska 5 (Hotel Stary), tel. (+48) 12 384 08 06,
www.likusrestauracje.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (85-99z).
6UGSW
VANILLA SKY
The flagship restaurant of Art Hotel Niebieski, Vanilla Sky
is one of the citys only restaurants to use only certified
organic ingredients, and youll be happily commiting to
the eco-craze once you see the menu of tantalising dishes
like duck breast served with red cabbage stewed in wine,
and homemade dumplings. Set in the centre of a spacious
dining room on the hotels third floor, the well-dressed
tables circle a gorgeous grand piano on which evening
concerts are performed Wed-Sat, as well as Sunday
afternoons.QH4, ul. Flisacka 3 (Hotel Art Niebieski &
Spa), tel. (+48) 12 297 40 05, www.vanilla-sky.pl. Open
12:00 - 23:00. (38-64z). TUEGSW
NEW
ZENIT
Zenits bar and kitchen seem to be in competition with
each other to see which can establish itself as the main
draw of this all-around excellent venue. This is the place
in Kazimierz for a morning cocktail - the drinks are made
using homemade syrups and top shelf liquor, and the
expert barmen love a new challenge. The breakfast menu
(served 08:00 - 13:00; Sat, Sun 09:00 - 13:00), meanwhile, is
phenomenal, featuring such goodies as their waffle with
mint cream cheese, smoked salmon and a poached egg.
The regular menu shifts with the seasons and is no less
amazing, the prices are unfairly low considering the quality,
and it all comes with great service from waiters who are
actually invested enough in your dining experience to
sometimes even convince you to change your order. Filled
with framed art and gold paint, that the space feels a bit like
a 70s hotel lobby bar isnt even a concern. Are we gushing?
Were gushing.QD6, ul. Miodowa 19, tel. (+48) 602 69
19 96. Open 08:30 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 08:30 - 24:00, Sun
09:00 - 20:00. (14-29z). T6GSW
ISRAELI
HAMSA
In a district whose dining establishments still treat
Jewishness as a faded sepia part of the past, heres a
restaurant free of nostalgic pre-war dcor and wooden roof
fiddlers, where Jewish cuisine doesnt mean traditional
East European fare. Making a bold impression simply by
being bright, modern and free of clutter, Hamsa offers a
Restaurants
2 0 1 6
POD R RESTAURANT
14 Floriaska Street, Krakow
MODERN POLISH CUISINE
www.likusrestauracje.pl
3 RYBKI RESTAURANT
5 Szczepaska Street, Krakow
RISTORANTE AMARONE
14 Floriaska Street, Krakow
(entrance from w. Tomasza Street)
COPERNICUS RESTAURANT
16 Kanonicza Street, Krakow
April - May 2016
39
Restaurants
LATE NIGHT EATS
When it comes to late night street food, Krakw has
you covered. Though youll find kebab stands all over
popular nightlife thoroughfares like ul. Floriaska and
ul. Szewska in the Old Town, your options are actually
better than that, from all night pierogi shops to the
24hr vodka and herring bars that have sprung up all
over town (see p.54). Perhaps Polands most popular
street food is the zapiekanka and the best place to
get one is out of one of the hatches of the Plac Nowy
roundhouse (D-6) which generally stay open until at
least 02:00. Required eating by any visitor, the only
late night food spot more legendary is the Kielbaski z
Niebieskiej Nyski sidewalk sausage stand.
KIELBASKI Z NIEBIESKIEJ NYSKI

This legendary sidewalk sausage stand has been a
Cracovian street food institution for over twenty years.
Here two old boys in white smocks set up shop outside
their blue Nyska (a Soviet model van) every evening
except Sundays to grill kiebasa sausages over a wood
fired stove for the hungry, drunken masses. For 8z
you get a delicious sausage, slightly stale roll, ketchup,
mustard and an unforgettable experience. Dont miss it
if youre in the neighbourhood.QE4, ul. Grzegrzecka
(Hala Targowa). Open 20:00 - 03:00. Closed Sun.
PRZYPIECEK
Join legions of happy locals tucking into a large range
of pierogi with various stuffings, served all night long
with no fuss and no formality. Sure, its not as fast as a
kebab, but its a much better value, better quality, and
they even offer tables to sit at. At the end of a night of
clubbing, there are few better places in Krakw for filling
your stomach.QC2, ul. Sawkowska 32, tel. (+48) 12
422 74 95. Open 24hrs. (9-18z). GBSW
SCANDALE ROYAL
This sexy lounge and bistro has its own special late
night menu served from 22:00 until close, comprised
of tasty tapas dishes. Choose from exotic and elegant
finger foods like bruschetta, tuna empanadillas, Black
Tiger prawns with garlic, meat balls and a lot more.
QB2, Pl. Szczepaski 2, tel. (+48) 12 422 13 33,
www.scandale.pl. Open 07:30 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 07:30 01:00. (8-23z). BXSW
range of authentic Middle Eastern specialties in a casual

environment. The mezze sets are perfect for sharing, and
not only give you a chance to sample delicious starters like
the humus, babaganoush, labnah and muhammarah (our
recommended choice), but are also beautifully presented
in hand-painted dish ware. Theres plenty of room, and in
spring/summer this restaurant expands to ul. Miodowa
41 with a beautiful garden. Fairly-priced and generally a
breath of fresh air, Hamsa is a delight.QE6, ul. Szeroka
2, tel. (+48) 515 15 01 45, www.hamsa.pl. Open 10:00 23:00. (30-60z). T6GBSW
ITALIAN
AMARONE
Upmarket Italian food served in an elegant setting to a
discerning audience - all of whom appear to know exactly
what they are ordering and how it should be prepared. The
pressure is on, but the Amarone team comes through every
time and the clients keep coming back. Enjoy fresh bread
(baked daily), homemade pasta and authentic ingredients
straight from Italy in an exclusive atmosphere made
Mediterranean via plenty of natural light and potted plants.
Weekdays 12:00 - 16:00 offer a fantastic five-course tasting
menu for only 50z.QC2, ul. Floriaska 14 (Pod R
Hotel), tel. (+48) 12 424 33 81, www.lhr.com.pl. Open
12:00 - 23:00. (49-65z). T6UEGW
AQUA E VINO
Following a quick renovation, this veteran restaurant remains as
exciting as the day it opened. Once inside this chic, somewhat
hidden cellar space possesses an atmosphere redolent of
downtown Milan, and comes decorated in a minimalist style
with cream and mocha colour combinations redolent of a
Milano cookie. Half restaurant, half lounge bar, the Italian
owners Francesco and Roberto are professionally trained chefs
themselves, who personally oversee the beautifully presented
dishes coming out of the kitchen. Earning rave reviews from all
corners, this merits a place on any must visit list you may be
keeping. Stop in during lunch (Mon-Fri 13:00-16:30) to get an
appetiser, main and drink for only 35z.QB3, ul. Wilna 5/10,
tel. (+48) 12 421 25 67, www.aquaevino.pl. Open 13:00 22:15. (24-69z). GSW
BIANCA
This small Italian bistro next to St. Marys Basilica comes
preceded by a big reputation and strong pedigree
courtesy of the local dining dynasty behind La Campana
and Marmolada. No surprise then that our scallops were
delicious, and though the side dishes (order one) are almost
as large as the pasta dishes, the value is still incredible. Close
scrutiny of the relaxed, prevalently white (go figure) interior
reveals a high level of perfectionism in each element (dont
fail to notice the hand-painted ceiling), but wisely leaves
big impressions to the kitchen situated in full view at the
end of the intimate room, where the professionalism of the
chefs is on full display.QC3, Pl. Mariacki 2, tel. (+48) 782
29 77 15, www.biancaristorante.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00.
(25-60z). GBW
Restaurants
Recommendation
Classy budget dining,

right in the centre.
Krakow In Your Pocket
Recommendation
Pizza, pasta
e magia
Amazing place...
excellent pastas, great
service, just delicious!!!
ul. Szewska 10, Krakw

tel. +48 12 426 41 27
www.boscaiola.eu
Krakw
ul. Kanonicza 7
tel. +48 12 430 22 32
www.lacampana.pl
April - May 2016
41
Restaurants
BOSCAIOLA
With pedigree and another winning design job from the
team behind the popular Mamma Mia, this surprisingly
upscale Italian eatery on bustling Szewska Street boasts
a stylish interior full of lovely timber and white ceramic
fittings, with large windows that bring a bit of sunshine and
street theatre to the front tables; downstairs is a beautiful
cellar full of wine bottles and wire-brushed brick and
stone. The menu is a by-now familiar array of pizzas and
pastas, but theres no skimping on the quality or quantity of
ingredients - only on the total of the bill at the end. Classy
budget dining, right in the centre.QB3, ul. Szewska 10,
tel. (+48) 12 426 41 27, www.boscaiola.eu. Open 11:00 23:00. (15-63z). TUGBSW
INVITO PIZZA & PASTA
The concept here is as simple as the food: a stylish interior
with a comfortable atmosphere in which to enjoy good
company and affordable food (two-course meals for as
little as 16.90z, pizza of the day 13.90z). The decor nicely
balances touchstones of a casual, rustic trattoria with the
elegance of numerous wine racks and classic black and
white Belle Epoque photos, thereby outshining the menu
which is little more than a concise list of budget pizzas and
do-it-at-home pasta dishes that come out of the kitchen
quickly. With cute students on the orders, live football
action on the big screens, queens Nina Simone and E.
Badu on the stereo and low totals on the bill at the end,
theres really nothing to disagree with here.QD3, ul. w.
Tomasza 33, tel. (+48) 12 421 30 92, www.invitopizza.
pl. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 24:00. (11-35z).
TUGSW
LA CAMPANA TRATTORIA
Planted on picturesque Kanonicza Street, in summertime
La Campana Trattoria is worth visiting just to relax in the
gorgeous ivy-green garden and cobbled patio; full of
sunlight and singing birds, it may be the best dining
environment in Krakw; in winter, retreat to the romantic
cellars and dream of better weather. From the same tried
and true team behind Mid Malina and Wesele - two of our
favourites (and the Michelin Guide agrees) - the pasta and
risotto are as good as youd expect, and the atmosphere
is tough to beat.QC4, ul. Kanonicza 7, tel. (+48) 12 430
22 32, www.lacampana.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (16-65z).
TEGBSW
LA GRANDE MAMMA
Responsible for some of the most understated but sterling
restaurants in town, the team behind Mid Malina and
Boscaiola has put their talents on display again with La
Grande Mamma. Located on the corner of the market
square, upscale Italian dining is a treat here, with an
ambience ideal for romantic trysts over wine and Brodetto
(brothy fish stew), or more casual meetings consecrated
with delicious pizzas and pasta. In addition to outstanding
food and service, interior design is another of their fortes,
and the stripped wood and mirrored tiles employed here
give a fresh finish to their successfully established style.
As usual, acute attention is paid to every detail, and the

payoff is more than worth the figure on the bill at the end.
QB3, Rynek Gowny 26, tel. (+48) 12 430 64 58, www.
lagrandemamma.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (20-40z).
TGBSW
MAMMA MIA
Dispatched from a traditional wood-fired oven, pizzas are
the pride of this place, but the plethora of home-made
pastas and other Italian standards prove Mamma Mia
is more than just a one trick pony. The interior of clever
lighting and exposed bricks makes a cool backdrop for
casual dining, and the army of regulars is testament to
Mamma Mias venerated reputation.QB2, ul. Karmelicka
14, tel. (+48) 12 422 28 68, www.mammamia.net.pl.
Open 11:00 - 23:00. (14-47z). UGBSW
NOLIO
Priding themselves on their fine Italian ingredients (water
buffalo mozzarella, pistachios from the foot of Mt, Etna),
Nolio makes Krakws only authentic Neopolitan-style
pizza. The dough is left to sit for eight hours and baked in
a wood-fired oven for only a minute in strict accordance
with Napoletana ingredients and technique. The interior
is all black (like the inside of their oven) with blond wood
furnishings, and the menu is minimal, offering five types
of homemade pasta and a concise choice of classic pizzas.
Though there are a few gourmet options like pizza with
tuna steak, we recommend the Mezze Luna - half pizza,
half calzone. Absolutely packed from the first moment it
opened, is this really the best pizza in town? We believe it
is.QD7, ul. Krakowska 27, tel. (+48) 12 346 24 49, www.
nolio.pl. Open 16:00 - 22:00, Fri 16:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00
- 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00. Closed Mon. (17-35z). T6
GS
JEWISH
ARIEL
Youll hear mixed reports about Ariel; while our last visit was
underwhelming, weve met many who extol the virtues of
this veteran restaurants varied Jewish cuisine. The setting is
typical of the district, with antiques and heirlooms alluding
to the Kazimierz of yesteryear, and a set of rooms decorated
in a charmingly cluttered style. The live klezmer music is a
popular draw and quintessential tourist experience, though
you may appreciate it less when you learn you are being
charged (25z) to listen to it. Performances take place daily
and reservations are recommended.QE6, ul. Szeroka 1718, tel. (+48) 12 421 79 20, www.ariel-krakow.pl. Open
10:00 - 24:00. (19-78z). 6EBXSW
DAWNO TEMU NA KAZIMIERZU
From the outside this venue is disguised to look like a row
of early 20th century trade shops and is decorated with
awnings relating to the areas Jewish heritage. Things are
no less colourful on the inside with mannequins, sewing
machines and carpenters work surfaces adorning the
interiors. A great attempt at capturing the old Kazimierz
Restaurants
Ci voglio ritornare!
massi1960 by
Nowhere in Cracow have I eaten

a better pizza.
Tadeusz Patek by
ul. Karmelicka 14, Krakw

Phone +48 12 430 04 92
www.mammamia.net.pl
English and Italian
menu available.
April - May 2016
43
Restaurants
THE OBWARZANEK
spirit, and a must-visit for those tracing the districts past,

enjoy live klezmer, folk or ethnic music every evening
except Saturdays (check their FB page for details).QE6,
ul. Szeroka 1, tel. (+48) 12 421 21 17, www.dawnotemu.
nakazimierzu.pl. Open 10:00 - 22:30, Fri, Sat, Sun 10:00 23:00. (19-49z). 6UEGBSW
KLEZMER HOIS
Located in an old former mikveh - a ritual Jewish bath
house - on ul. Szeroka, this is one of Kazimierzs most
well-established restaurants, and a portal into the dusty
sepia days of pre-war Poland. Serving traditional Jewish
Galician dishes from the 19th century, the restaurant
generally follows kosher rules, though theres no rabbinical
supervision. Incredibly popular klezmer concerts (28z) take
place each evening during dinner at 20:00 - keeping the
crowds amused and the wine flowing.QE6, ul. Szeroka
6, tel. (+48) 12 411 12 45, www.klezmer.pl. Open 07:00 22:00. (19-59z). UEGSW
MEXICAN
Any culinary journey through Krakw is likely to start
with the obwarzanek. A chewy dough ring sprinkled
(usually extremely unevenly) with salt, poppy or sesame
seeds, obwarzanki are sold from rolling carts on every
other street corner in Krakw, and are so inescapable
theyve become an unofficial symbol of the city. In fact
the obwarzanek is one of only two Polish foods currently
protected by the EU on its Traditional Foods List. Known
as the Cracovian bagel, the obwarzanek gets its name
from the Polish word for par-boiled and therefore
differs slightly from the bagel, in addition to being
its internationally popular counterparts predecessor.
Though the origins of the Jewish bagel are complex,
confusing and hotly-contested, most agree that it was
invented by Krakw Jews after 1496 when King Jan
Sobieski lifted the decree that formerly restricted the
production of baked goods to the Krakw Bakers Guild.
First written mention of the obwarzanek meanwhile
dates back to 1394, meaning that its been a daily sight
on Krakws market square for over 600 years. Though
increased tourism in recent years has jacked the price
of an obwarzanek up to around 1.50z (sacrilege!),
youll still see countless people on the go munching
these pretzel rings. Tasty and filling when fresh, the
art of truly enjoying an obwarzanek leaves a lot up
to chance. Cracovian bakers produce up to 200,000
obwarzanki daily in the summer, despite the fact that
on leaving the oven the baked goods have a sell-by
date of about three hours. As such, finding a hot one
is essential. Enjoyed by people of all ages, obwarzanki
also feed Krakws entire pigeon population when
in the evenings the citys 170-180 obwarzanki carts
essentially become bird-food vendors.
ALEBRICHE
In a town that should be admonished for its awful Mexican
food, Alebriche has almost nothing in common with its
competition, and heres the simple difference: its actually
owned and operated by a local Mexican family (gasp!).
Developing an immediate cult following upon opening,
Alebriche sends ex-pats into ecstasy with its simple,
authentic, dirt-cheap Mexican eats. The menu includes
everything from tacos to flan, with spicy soups, tamales
and proper chicken mole in between. In addition to
margaritas and micheladas, this is the only place in town
where you can get horchata (our fave). A simple, but bright,
colourful interior full of paper streamers and folk costumes
confirms that the main focus is on the food - so good youll
be coming back until youve tried everything on the menu.
Also at ul. Karmelicka 56 (A-1), and heartily recommended.
QE6, ul. Szeroka 31, tel. (+48) 516 57 63 06, www.
restauracjalebriche.com. Open 15:00 - 22:00. (15-50z).
TUGSW
NEW
CALAVERA MEXICAN GRILL
What began as a successful food truck seems a little bit
lost with a stationary local on Plac Biskupia. First the food:
Calavera continues a new trend of delicious genuine
Mexican food made from authentic ingredients; the simple
menu includes tacos, burritos, quesadillas and tostados
served fast with your choice of 5 salsas. Its all first rate, and
if you cross paths with their food truck, queue up (find it
at ul. Dajwr 21 after 16:00, E-6). Despite some cool Dia de
Muertos design touches, however, dining in their restaurant
is undermined by paper plates, plastic cutlery and weak
service. Delivery is also frustrating due to 35z minimum
orders, plus an 11z(!) delivery fee; considering the prices are
rather modest, thats like paying for an extra lunch.QB1,
ul. Biskupia 4/1, tel. (+48) 537 03 52 85, www.calavera.pl.
Open 12:00 - 21:00. (6-16z). 6VGSW
MAIN MARKET SQUARE 13

LEVEL -1
www.likusrestauracje.pl
Polish Food
Polish food is famous for being simple, hearty and almost
uniformly off-white in colour. You simply havent had a
thorough sampling of it until youve tried all the traditional
dishes below, all of which can be found at almost any Polish
restaurant or milk bar (see p.50) in town. Smacznego!
NALENIKI
The Polish equivalent of French crepes, these are thin
pancakes wrapped around pretty much any filling you can
dream of, savoury or sweet. Generally the easy way out in
any dodgy Polish dining establishment.
BIGOS
PIEROGI
Though there is no standard

recipe for this hearty stew,
ingredients usually include lots
of fresh and pickled cabbage,
sausage, onion, mushrooms,
garlic and whatever else is on
hand. In fact, metaphorically
bigos translates to big mess,
mish-mash or confusion in Polish. Seasoned with
peppercorns, bay leaves, caraway and the kitchen sink, the
stew is left to gestate for a few days for full flavour infusion. A
Polish restaurant or prospective bride can be fairly measured
on the strength of their bigos, so put it to the test.
Doughy dumplings traditionally

filled with potato (Ruskie), sweet
cheese, meat, mushrooms and
cabbage, strawberries or plums,
though if you nose around you
will find plenty of maverick
fillings like broccoli, chocolate
or liver; the possibilities are truly
limitless and they are served
almost everywhere in the city.
PLACKI
These greasy, fried potato
pancakes are very similar to
Jewish latkes and best enjoyed
with goulash on top (placki
po Wgiersku). Highly caloric,
theyre also a tried and true
hangover cure.
GOBKI
ZAPIEKANKA
quinn.anya/www.flickr.com/CC BY-SA 2.0.
Translating to little pigeons, this favourite dish consists of

boiled cabbage leaves stuffed with beef, onion and rice
before being baked and served in a tomato or mushroom
sauce. Polish legend claims King Kazimierz IV fed his army
gobki before a battle against the Teutonic Order, and their
unlikely victory has been attributed to the fortifying meal
ever since.
GOLONKA
Pork knuckle or hock, as in pigs thigh. A true Polish delicacy,
the boiled, braised or roasted meat should slip right off the
bone, be served with horseradish, and washed down with
beer. Go caveman.
KIEBASA
Sausages, and in Polish shops youll find an enormous
variety, made with everything kind of meat imaginable,
from turkey to bison. Head to Kielbaski z Niebieskiej
Nyski at Plac Targowy (see p.40) to get a taste of Krakws
most famous kiebasa, however. Two old-timers have been
grilling sausage out of a van since time immemorial at this
hallowed sidewalk stand.
The ultimate Cracovian drunk

food. Order one at any train
station in PL and youll get half
a stale baguette covered with
mushrooms and cheese, thrown
in a toaster oven and squirted
robert6666 - dollarphotoclub with ketchup. Underwhelming
to say the least, however the vendors of Kazimierzs Plac
Nowy (D-6) have made a true art out of the Polish pizza.With
endless add-ons (including salami, spinach, smoked cheese,
pickles, pineapple, feta you name it), garlic sauce and chives
have become standard procedure at this point. Because of
their popularity youll witness ridiculous lines at the various
windows around the roundhouse, but the wait is worth it. At
8-10z its a great value and will sustain you through a night
of heavy drinking. To leave town without having tried a Plac
Nowy zapiekanka would be felonious, as would settling for
one anywhere else in Krakw.
ZUPA (SOUP)
Poland has two signature soups:
barszcz and urek. A nourishing
beetroot soup similar to Russian
borscht, barszcz may be served
with potatoes tossed in, with
mini-pierogi floating in it, or with
Barszcz
a croquette for dunking, but we
prefer to order it solo - in which case it comes simply as
broth in a mug expressly for drinking. urek is a unique
sour rye soup with sausage, potatoes and occasionally egg
chucked in, and sometimes served in a bread bowl.
Restaurants
Friendly efficient staff,

delicious food, and had
a very happy evening!
Margaret by krakow.inyourpocket.com
Krakw
Rynek Gwny 10
tel. +48 12 422 74 60
www.weselerestauracja.pl
April - May 2016
47
Restaurants
Polish
Restaurant
Traditional Polish food in modern form
Open: Mon-Thu 09.00 - 22.00, Fri-Sat 09.00 - 24.00, Sun 09.00 - 24.00
ul. Sawkowska 13-15, Krakw, tel. 12 430-61-08, www.czerwonekorale.eu
POLISH
CZERWONE KORALE
This traditional Polish restaurant may be discreet from
the street, but the interior is one of the most vibrant
and welcoming in the Old Town. Cheerful wicker
chandeliers wound with bright ribbons and beads
give the dining rooms a warm glow, while photos of
dancing highlanders and peasant maidens frolicking in
folk costumes line the walls. Even more colour comes
from the kitchen, which serves all the Polish standards,
but with some creative innovations and a flair for
presentation youd hardly expect. Theres an entire page
of vegetarian dishes(!) and the overall quality of the food
makes Czerwone Korale not only a pleasant surprise, but
also a great value (particularly during their 14z lunch
deals Mon-Fri 12:00 - 16:00).QC2, ul. Sawkowska 1315, tel. (+48) 12 430 61 08, www.czerwonekorale.eu.
Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 24:00. (13-45z).
VGSW
DOBRA KASZA NASZA
Considering the simple concept, and the fact that its
discreetly tucked off a corridor full of noisy music clubs,
this is a surprisingly sophisticated restaurant, featuring
a beautiful timber ceiling and modern art on the walls.
While some familiar Polish standards share the menu,
train your attention to the first page for an introduction
to Polish kasza - that is, groats or hot cereal. Choose from
pearl groats with chicken curry and black olives, or millet
with pumpkin, turkey and garlic sauce. A tasty, filling meal

on the market square for under 20z? Hard to believe and
even harder to beat.QB3, Rynek Gwny 28, tel. (+48)
531 62 64 47, www.dobrakaszanasza.pl. Open 12:00 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00. (16-30z). TUG
BSW
ED RED
This upscale beef-stro (our turn-of-phrase, thanks)
specialises in locally-sourced seasoned meat, dry-aged
on-site for at least twenty days. With an industrial interior
offset by large timber tables, and featuring a vast open
kitchen, Ed Red conveys the atmosphere of an NYC
steakhouse, but the curt menu is built upon local Polish
products and delicacies like tripe soup, blood sausage
and even a pork chop served on a bed of bigos, alongside
choice steaks and burgers. Though casual in style, the
service is outstandingly professional, and everything
from the tempting and creative culinary cocktails to the
monogrammed cloth napkins reveals that this is a fully
thought-out effort. We were positively impressed.QC2,
ul. Sawkowska 3, tel. (+48) 690 90 05 55, www.edred.
pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (29-195z).
UGBSW
Write your own reviews at

Restaurants
JAREMA
This classy veteran restaurant presents old world Eastern
Polish cuisine in a slightly ostentatious, 19th-century
interior adorned with stag antlers and faded oil paintings.
Comely waitresses in traditional costume bustle about
serving steak tartar with quail yolk, large platters of
pheasant and wild boar, and shots of vodka as live folk
music is performed each evening. Despite the now-familiar
hearkening back to the old days, Jarema is no tourist trap,
but rather a heartily recommended destination for carving
into some royal cuisine.QD1, Pl. Matejki 5, tel. (+48) 12
429 36 69, www.jarema.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (18-55z).
T6UVEGBSW
KOGEL MOGEL
Kogel Mogel as it was, it seems, was too refined for its
own good. Ditching the concept of grand banquet hall
for the communist elite, Kogel Mogel now envelopes
you in its elegance without any comrade kitsch. The
menu has gone full Galician and offers out-of-towners
the chance to take home a much better impression of
the local cuisine than you might acquire elsewhere. The
duck and goose dishes are particularly excellent, the fried
trout is outstanding and the large seasonal garden and
experienced staff also make this a good place for groups
and dinner events.QC3, ul. Sienna 12, tel. (+48) 12 426
49 68, www.kogel-mogel.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (1765z). TEGBSW
L CONCEPT 13 BAR & RESTAURANT
Formerly known as Bar 13, Likus has revamped their
excellent wine bar more in the mould of their other
culinary successes, and now serves modern Polish
cuisine with Italian influences. Drawing from the
exclusive vintages (served by the glass or bottle) and
local delicacies of the adjacent delicatessen and wine
shop, the dining room features a contemporary open
kitchen and seasonal minimalist menu featuring rich,
creative dishes like dumplings with oxtail, celery and
lemon. Located in Pasa 13, dining the cellar of a
shopping mall has never been this classy.QC3, Rynek
Gwny 13 (Pasa 13), tel. (+48) 12 617 02 12, www.
vinoteka13.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 19:00.
(25-55z). UGBSW
MARMOLADA
Marmolada offers delicious local Maopolska delicacies,
perfectly prepared and fired for a few minutes in a large
stone oven before arriving at your table. Narrow, yet long
and cavernous, Marmolada utilises floral folk patterns,
canopied ceilings, big timber tables and poinsettias to
create their unique combination of a comfortable local
atmosphere and low prices with great food and service.
Go elegant on Grodzka, just doors down from the citys
most exclusive restaurant (Wierzynek), and you can leave
with a bill thats less than half the size.QC3, ul. Grodzka
5, tel. (+48) 12 396 49 46, www.marmoladarestauracja.
pl. Open 07:00 - 11:00, 12:00 - 23:00. (17-54z). TU
GSW
WE INVITE YOU TO OUR

SUMMER GARDEN
Certificate of Excellence
WINNER 2015
2016
Krakw, Plac Matejki 5

phone: +48 12 429 36 69
restauracja@jarema.pl
www.jarema.pl
Open Mon-Sun 12-23
April - May 2016
49
Restaurants
MILK BARS
A lot has changed since communism got kneecapped

and Poland joined the EU. While many of the old ways
of the old days have disappeared or become slightly disneyfied in todays tourist-laden Krakw, one relic remains
resolutely un-Western: the Polish milk bar (bar mleczny
in Polish). These steamy cafeterias serving proletariat
cuisine to an endless queue of tramps, pensioners and
students provide a grim glimpse into Eastern Bloc Poland
and have all the atmosphere (and sanitary standards) of
a gas station restroom. We love them. For the cost of a
few coins you can eat like an orphaned street urchin,
albeit an extremely well-fed one. Put Wawel on hold, a
visit to the milk bar is a required cultural experience for
anyone who has just set foot in the country.
Polands first milk bar was actually opened on Krakws
own market square on May 30th, 1948. As restaurants
were nationalised by PLs communist authorities, milk
bars appeared in their place to provide cheap, dairy-based
meals to the masses (as cheerlessly as possible, apparently);
in fact meals at the local milk bar were often included
in a workers salary. In addition to milk, yoghurt, cottage
cheese and other dairy concoctions, milk bars offered
omelettes and egg cutlets, as well as flour-based foods
like pierogi. Times were so desperate under communism
that many milk bars chained the cutlery to the table to
deter rampant thievery; by this same reasoning youll
notice that most milk bars today use disposable dishes
and the salt and pepper are dispensed from plastic cups
with a spoon. Similarly, the orders are still taken by ashenfaced, all-business babcias (Polish grannies), and the food
is as inspired as ever - the only difference being that meat
is no longer rationed in modern PL. With the collapse
of communism most bar mleczny went bankrupt,
however, some of these feed museums were saved and
continue to be kept open through state subsidies. The
range of available dishes begins to fall off as closing time
approaches, so go early, go often.
BAR KAZIMIERZQD7, ul. Krakowska 24, tel.
(+48) 12 430 68 45. Open 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 16:00, Sun 07:00 - 15:00. (3-8z). GS
POD TEMID
The easiest to find: look for the blue and white Bar
Mleczny sign.QC4, ul. Grodzka 43, tel. (+48) 12 422
08 74. Open 09:00 - 20:00. (10-18z). UNGS
MID MALINA (HONEY RASPBERRY)

Consistently excellent meals have seen Mid Malina
establish themselves as one of the top restaurants in
town, so book ahead if you fancy taking in the Grodzka
views afforded by the raised window-side seating. This
cheerful restaurant comes with raspberries painted on
the walls and a pleasing glow that illuminates the darker
evenings. There are floral touches aplenty here, lending
a storybook, candy cottage atmosphere, while the menu
mixes up the best of Polish and Italian cooking. The prices
remain pegged generously low making a visit here not just
recommended (as the Michelin Guide did), but essential.
QC4, ul. Grodzka 40, tel. (+48) 12 430 04 11, www.
miodmalina.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (26-60z). TU
GBSW
MORSKIE OKO
Morskie Oko captures the mountain spirit of Zakopane,
so you can expect plenty of sheepskin-strewn timber
furnishings, farm equipment, waitresses with bits
bursting out of traditional costumes, and regular live
bands making a good old gralski racket. The food is
peasant-fancy: nicely-presented, well-portioned and
perfectly prepared plates of grilled game that have
earned this place a dedicated following. Plenty of space
and a kids corner make it ideal for family feasts.QB2,
Pl. Szczepaski 8, tel. (+48) 12 431 24 23, www.
morskieoko.krakow.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00. (20-50z).
TEGBSW
POD BARANEM
An admirable establishment near Wawel Castle, the upscale
interior features exposed brick, timber ceiling beams and a
fireplace, offset by framed photos of family and guests on
the walls, creating a truly comfortable and classy dining
environment. Serving excellent incarnations of Polish
standards, the menu includes more meat than youll find
at a livestock market (including deer and wild boar), plus
a special page dedicated to gluten-free meals, and the
complimentary pre-meal smalec and bread may be the
best in Krakw.QC5, ul. w. Gertrudy 21, tel. (+48) 12
429 40 22, www.podbaranem.com. Open 12:00 - 22:00.
(23-100z). TUIXS
POD NOSEM
An elegant upscale dining experience on Krakws oldest
street, under the nose (as the name translates) of Wawel
Castle - tantalising smells from the open kitchen will hit
yours upon entry. This establishment uses the sous vide
method to create a curt menu of modern, beautifully
presented Polish and international cuisine, which changes
every time we visit. The interior has some fine and creative
touches with regal tapestries, embroidered seating,
gorgeous dishware and some clever lamp fixtures whose
profile pay tribute to the name. Utterly professional, and
guaranteed to be one of the most unforgettable parts of
your experience in Krakw.QC5, ul. Kanonicza 22, tel.
(+48) 12 376 00 14, www.podnosem.com. Open 12:00 22:00. (16-55z). GBW
Restaurants
One of the best dining experiences

we have ever had. This place
deserves a michelin star!
James by krakow.inyourpocket.com
Krakw
ul. Grodzka 40
tel. +48 12 430 04 11
www.miodmalina.pl
BEST
PLACE
TO EAT
Heaven! Fantastic food,

excellent wine, great service.
In one word: PERFECT!
Maria - London
Krakw
ul. Grodzka 5
tel. +48 12 422 02 33
www.marmoladarestauracja.pl
April - May 2016
51
Restaurants
POD ANIOAMI (UNDER THE ANGELS)
One of the citys most historic and charming restaurants,
Pod Anioami offers a quintessentially Cracovian encounter
with royal medieval Polish cuisine. This cavernous, candlelit, almost monastic haven is incredibly warm and inviting
considering that some of its 13th century dining areas are two
levels underground; inside youre surrounded by historical
artefacts, and two beech wood-fired grills allow you to
watch the creation of your meal from beginning to end. The
extensive menu includes Pod Anioamis famous pierogi, plus
everything imaginable that can be smoked, grilled, or was
enjoyed by the Polish nobility in days of old, including special
recipes made with actual gold - an homage to the buildings
past as a goldsmithy. One of Krakws richest restaurant
experiences indeed, and highly recommended.QC4, ul.
Grodzka 35, tel. (+48) 12 421 39 99, www.podaniolami.pl.
Open 13:00 - 24:00. (30-140z). 6GBSW
POD R (UNDER THE ROSE)
Excellent Polish cuisine served under the glass atrium of
the magnificent Pod R Hotel. The open and elegant
design features plenty of potted plants, a piano perched
on a raised platform and mezzanine seating overlooking
the main floor. In addition to delicious coffees, to-die-for
desserts, and an extensive wine list, the menu of seasonally
inspired entrees includes a menagerie of perfectly prepared
poultry and large game. Prices are high, but then so are the
standards.QC2, ul. Floriaska 14 (Pod R Hotel), tel.
(+48) 12 424 33 81, www.lhr.com.pl. Open 18:30 - 23:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (49-69z). TUEGW
POD WAWELEM
The place to visit if youre looking to hit your daily calorie
quota in one meal. Huge portions of standard Polish fare
cascade off the steel pans and wooden boards theyre served
on, while uniformed staff weave between the bench seating
serving frothing steins of lager. Great for groups and families,
kids have their own large rumpus area, while the grown-ups
soak up the beer hall atmosphere shouting over energetic
live folk music. Litre beers are encouraged and half-price on
Mondays, and theres a handy vomitorium in the mens room
- i.e, two enormous steel basins for those suffering from
over-consumption. Now a second location in the Cloth Hall
(Restauracja Sukiennice).QC5, ul. w. Gertrudy 26-29, tel.
(+48) 12 421 23 36, www.podwawelem.eu. Open 12:00 23:30, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. (20-40z). TUEGS
RESTAURACJA SUKIENNICE
Known for their enormous schnitzel pork chops (seriously,
just split one), daily promotions (including 1-litre beers for
only 7.50z on Mondays!) and complimentary cherry vodka
shots with the check, this restaurant has been a rampant
success in one of the most high-rent locales in the country.
Less beer-hally than its sister establishment Pod Wawelem,
enjoy outdoor seating in the shadow of the Town Hall
Tower in warm weather, or the surprisingly intimate
Austro-Hungary-inspired interior inside the Cloth Hall, all
while stuffing yourself silly on local specialties at some of
the lowest prices on the market square. The fact that it isnt
Restaurants
Reservation +48 12 421 39 99
a shameless tourist trap, makes it even more of a tourist

magnet.QB3, Rynek Gwny 3, tel. (+48) 12 421 09 09,
www.sukiennice-restauracja.pl. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun
12:00 - 23:00. (16-50z). TGBSW
RESTAURACJA W HOTELU FRANCUSKIM
Dingy, deliberately unfinished walls contrast with the oldeworld, over-the-top service of white suit-jacketed gentlemen
who serve everything at your table, even preparing some
of it in front of you (like the laborious mincing of the steak
tartar), all while a pianist tickles ivories in the corner. As such,
youll get a real kick out of dining here, and the set lunch offer
- served 12:30 - 17:00 each day - is a fantastic opportunity
to experience Francuskis high society inter-war elegance for
a shocking 18z (33z on Sundays, when it includes a glass
of wine). We love it.QC2, ul. Pijarska 13, tel. (+48) 530 67
95 19, www.hotel-francuski.com.pl. Open 07:00 - 11:00,
12:30 - 21:00. (18-60z). TUEGSW
SSIEDZI
Probably the best restaurant in Kazimierz for introducing
yourself to traditional Polish food, Ssiedzi (Neighbours)
offers up delicious portions of all the standards in a lovely
tavern-style interior that perfectly balances elegance with
homely comfort. The honeycomb of intimate rooms in
the cellar are perfect for small groups, but wed dine in the
flower-festooned patio and winter garden every time if
theres a table available. The staff are refreshingly friendly
and helpful, and tested classics like urek, potato pancakes
and perch in lemon-saffron sauce all earn top marks. This

is the Polish dining experience youre looking for, but at
prices beneath those youd get for the same Michelinrecommended results in the Old Town.QD6, ul. Miodowa
25, tel. (+48) 12 654 83 53, www.oberza.pl. Open 12:00
- 23:00. (12-80z). TGBSW
SKANSEN SMAKW
This karczma directly across from the main bus stop at
Kryspinw Lagoon (a super-popular public beach) was
built to be an authentic exercise in traditional Maopolska
mountain architecture and cuisine (albeit on a lake near the
airport). Replete with timber beams, sheep-skin rugs, dried
flower garlands, beads and colourful folk motifs, Skansen
Smakw offers guests the whole experience, including
live concerts on Sundays, and lively folk performances on
Thursday evenings. The menu is a hearty romp through
the specialties of the region, prepared precisely as they
should be: golonko (pork hocks) basted in beer, ribs in
plum sauce and urek soup served in a bread bowl. Prices
are reasonable, but bear in mind that sides are ordered
separately, and the restaurants popularity can sometimes
lead to lengthy wait times. To get there take any tram
which terminates at the Salwator tram roundabout, and
from there you can catch bus 209 to Budzy Zalew na
Piaskach (requested stop) right across from the entrance.
Qul. Cholerzyn 424, Liszki, tel. (+48) 12 357 10 06, www.
skansensmakow.pl. Open 11:00 - 21:00. (13-120z).
T6UEGSW
April - May 2016
53
Restaurants
POLISH SNACKS & SHOTS
Photo by Karol Grzenia
A very popular Polish phenomenon is the 24-hour

snack and shot bar. Known locally as Zakski Przekski
(literally Appetisers & Snacks), these trendy dives cash
in on communist nostalgia and the appeal of low prices
by offering a small selection of Soviet-era bar food, and
drinks at half the usual price. Much like an all-night milk
bar with a liquor license, Zakski Przekski bars are a
great place to keep the party going and meet the citys
strangest characters.
AMBASADA LEDZIA
Theres a vodka and led bar on seemingly every
corner in Krakw these days, and were gonna go
ahead and blame Ambasada ledzia for this fishy fad.
They were first, and if were judging by food, theyre
also the best. In case youre wondering, pickled herring
(led) is a delicacy in these parts in the same way that
vodka is local parlance for medicine. The two go great
together and for 12z its a cheap fling with foreign
culinary culture. Though the primary Herring Embassy
now closes at midnight, the all-night shenanigans that
once characterised this cult hipster haven have simply
moved down the street to ul. Stolarska 5 (led u
Fryzjera, open 10:00 - 06:00).QC3, ul. Stolarska 8/10,
tel. (+48) 662 56 94 60. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 24:00. GW
PIJALNIA WDKI I PIWA
Well-positioned on Doubting Thomas Lane, Pijalnias
around the clock crowds make it hard to miss. Flooded
inside and out with students and street urchins,
Pijalnia seems to be at the forefront of this tried and
trendy formula: offer 4z drinks and a small 8z menu of
traditional vodka and beer snacks in dingy environs that
conjure communist nostalgia while simultaneously
being a subtle backlash against the increasing cost and
ostentation of the citys nightlife. Did we get that right?
Essentially the anti-cocktail lounge, Pijalnias faithful
have us in the fold for being one of the citys most fun
destinations any time of day or night, and for making
vodka blindness cool again. Finally! Also at ul. Szewska
20 (B-3) and Pl. Nowy 7 (D-6).QC3, ul. w. Jana 3-5
(entrance from ul. w. Tomasza), tel. (+48) 12 422 80
75. Open 24hrs. NGBW
SMAKOYKI
An editorial favourite. Budget food isnt hard to come by
in this town, but when it does, its typically service and
ambience that you sacrifice for your savings. Not here
though. This hip, trendy bistro serves simple, delicious
Polish cuisine inside a spacious, slightly urban, slightly retro
interior that features a mezzanine and nifty wall art made
from pinned string. Daily specials make the deals even
sweeter, and plenty of space, plus an abundance of wall
plugs and wifi that actually works(!), also make this a great
place to work.QB3, ul. Straszewskiego 28, tel. (+48) 12
430 30 99, www.smakolyki.eu. Open 08:00 - 22:00, Sun
09:00 - 22:00. (9-24z). T6GSW
WESELE
This warm, timber-framed, two-level eatery is one of the most
popular on the market square thanks to a reputation built on
Michelin recommendations, friendly service and a comfortable
atmosphere. If your Polish is about as good as your Chinese,
the name Wesele refers to the lengthy celebration of family,
food, love and vodka that takes place after a traditional Polish
wedding service, and if this place werent full of tourists all
the clinking glasses and smiling faces might make you think
youd actually crashed a Polish wedding party. The menu is
classic Polish cooking done exactly the way it was meant, and
the goose breast is fabulous. Recommended.QC3, Rynek
Gwny 10, tel. (+48) 12 422 74 60, www.weselerestauracja.
pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00. (17-65z). TUEGBSW
WIERZYNEK
Quite a launch party this place: according to legend the
opening night back in 1364 was attended by five kings
and nine princes. Since then its been one esteemed guest
after another, with former diners including De Gaulle, Bush,
Castro and other world leaders, as well as starlets like Sophie
Marceau and Kate Moss. The immaculate interiors of original
period furnishings, tapestries, oil paintings and incredible
timber ceilings arent too dissimilar from a tour of Wawel
Castle and you can expect a royal treatment from the staff.
The seriously high-end menu is based on the traditional
feasting habits of the Polish monarchy, but it hasnt failed
to adopt modern influences as well, meaning youll eat
like a king and remember the experience - one you could
only have in Krakw - for quite a long time.QC3, Rynek
Gwny 16, tel. (+48) 12 424 96 00, www.wierzynek.pl.
Open 13:00 - 23:00. (32-118z). TEGBW
VEGETARIAN
CAFE MYNEK
The best cafe south of ul. Jzefa since its inception over a
decade ago, in addition to a classic Kazimierz art gallery
atmosphere, good coffee (including drip) and square-side
seating in summer, Mynek also serves a smattering of
yummy vegan, vegetarian and gluten-free dishes like humus,
falafel, vegan latkes, Spanish tomato soup (like gazpacho, but
served hot) and a big vegan breakfast.QD7, Pl. Wolnica 7,
tel. (+48) 12 430 62 02, www.cafemlynek.com. Open 08:00
- 22:00, Sat 08:00 - 23:00. (16-26z). T6GBSW
Restaurants
NEW
KROWARZYWA VEGAN BURGER
Well-established in Warsaw, this cheap vegan burger joint
has stormed into Krakw and the kids are literally queuing
out the door. Choose from 5 standard patties - millet
(jaglanex), seitan, chickpea (cieciorex), veggie and tofu,
plus outstanding weekly inventions - pick your sauce and
bun, and then leave the rest to the riot grrrls on the grill,
whose assembly line efficiency is something to behold.
The interior is as simple as the menu (from which fries are
conspicuously absent), and, as if their hipster cred could
possibly be in question, Krowarzywa has their own bottled
yerba mate brand and offers 3z nettles shots, plus natural
smoothies. Honestly, we eat here once a week, and its
encouraging to see a place like this gain traction just off the
market square. Check it out.QB2, ul. Sawkowska 8, tel.
(+48) 531 77 71 36, www.krowarzywa.pl. Open 12:00 23:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 24:00. (12-16z). 6GBS
POD NORENAMI
Practised in the art of Asian vegetarian cuisine and the
metamorphic powers of the soybean like no other place
weve seen in PL, Pod Norenamis long menu (too long if
were honest) features tofu, mock chicken and mock beef
prepared in an astounding variety of traditional dishes from
the kitchens of Japan, Thailand, Vietnam, Korea and China.
While some Far East standbys (curries, tempura, sushi, pad
Thai) arent new to Krakw, a true vegetarian restaurant that
emphasises mock meat certainly is, and the results have
got people packing this place out and returning often. A
fun place to fool or educate the Polish palate, the interior
is modest and casual (much like the prices) as opposed to
modern and kitsch. Do Krakws vegetarians have it hard?
Hardly.QB2, ul. Krupnicza 6, tel. (+48) 661 21 92 89,
www.podnorenami.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00
- 23:00. (20-50z). TGSW
/polandinyourpocket
VEGAN BISTRO NOVA KROVA
Formerly focussed on combining two current food trends
that would otherwise seem at odds - veganism and
burgers - Nova Krova has branched far beyond food in a
bun to become a full-blown vegan bistro. Enjoy a variety of
delicious dishes made from faux meats, whole grains, nuts,
beans and other vegan buddies, vegan Sunday brunch
(10:00 - 13:00, 15z), delicious dairy-free desserts, coffee
with soy, almond or coconut milk, obscure beers and
homemade ginger- and lemonade. Burgers are still around,
and now you basically build your own with whatever
ingredients you want, including your choice of patty
(bulgar, beans, tofu, seitan, quinoa, falafel) and bun (white,
wheat, gluten-free). As you might expect the hipster
quotient here is exceptionally high - almost as high as our
opinion of the place.QD7, Pl. Wolnica 12, tel. (+48) 530
30 53 04. Open 12:00 - 21:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 23:00, Sun
10:00 - 21:00. (10-18z). 6UNGSW
HAVE YOUR SAY

If you have an opinion about any of the venues listed
in this guide, let the 1.1 million yearly unique visitors
to our website, krakow.inyourpocket.com, know
about it. Every venue on our website has a function for
comments, be they critical, complimentary or comical,
so spill it.
ALCHEMIA OD KUCHNI (p.33)
A nice place to get some decent and affordable food
in Kazimierz. The lunch/dinner menu is diverse including amazing plum/jalapeno hummus and very
good fish and chips. Its also a great place to take your
laptop and sit and do your blogging etc. while in a very
hip place.
Karen from USA
KOCIUSZKO MOUND (p.82)
The most well known mound in Krakow, and most
prominent. Well worth visiting, as the view from the top
is breathtaking. There are a few cafes and a restaurant
to satisfy your needs, and the vicinity is worth taking a
walk and seeing the 1920s villas (summer residencies)
along the way. Heading in the right direction due East
through al. Waszyngtona you will find yourself at the
southern part of the Vistula river banks, which is quite a
satisfying end of this short journey.
Bartomiej from Krakw
April - May 2016
55
Cafs
American splendour served daily in Cupcake Corner Bakery.
CAFE SZA
On the second floor of the renovated Cloth Hall, during the
warmer months Cafe Sza offers great views of St. Marys
Basilica and the market square from its large terrace,
but dont be surprised if youre asked to pay 2z for the
privilege, even if youre ordering something (Welcome to
PL!). Aside from that annoying policy (which is in place to
keep museum tourists from swarming the deck), this is a
clever spot for a romantic dessert date or snapping some
stellar photos. The coffee, cocktails and cakes are all solid,
but its really the sunshine and amazing backdrop that
youre here for. Soak it up.QC3, Rynek Gwny 1-3, tel.
(+48) 695 60 27 74. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
UGBS
CUPCAKE CORNER BAKERY
The haute cupcake trend has spread all the way to
Krakw, and this cheerful (but pricey) American bakery
couldnt be more authentic if it was run by Martha
Stewart herself. Offering 21 different cupcake flavours
on various days of the week (12 daily), choose from
delicious creations like Peanut Butter Brownie, White
Chocolate Pistachio, gluten-free Chocolate Cashew,
Red Velvet and Carrot Cake. If that sounds good, wait
until you try their all-natural, artisanal ice cream and
milkshakes. Organic coffee and a large selection of
delicious bagels are also on hand, everything is made
entirely from scratch, and custom orders are invited.
Also at ul. Grodzka 60 (C-5) and ul. Michaowskiego 14
(A-2).QC3, ul. Bracka 4, tel. (+48) 12 341 42 72, www.
cupcakecorner.pl. Open 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 09:00 21:00. TUGSW
JAMA MICHALIKA
Established in 1895, it was in this very establishment
that Moda Polska - Polands Art Nouveau movement was founded, with many of the leading artists of the day
choosing to take their libations inside this grand venue, and
tack their art on the walls. The place has hardly changed
a bit since then and still features loads of original artwork
from the fin-de-siecle era, as well as period furnishings,
stained glass, an anachronous cloakroom and smoking
section. Theres also a full menu of Polish food and regular
folk dancing concerts. Although the abundance of tourist
groups and the poker-faced nature of the staff limits the
appeal of return visits, stopping in at this legendary venue
is still essential.QD2, ul. Floriaska 45, tel. (+48) 12 422
15 61, www.jamamichalika.pl. Open 09:00 - 22:00, Fri,
Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. 6UEXW
KARMA COFFEE ROASTERS
Arguably the best cup of joe in town, Karma roasts their own
beans and boasts one of the best espresso machines in the
world (Synesso, from Seattle, write it down). But this is hardly
the snobby or pricey realm of the Starbucks set. Karma caters
to a more alternative crowd with a range of vegan and
gluten-free baked goods, and daily vegan lunch specials
that will make you feel great about what youre eating, as
well as how little youre paying. With a full breakfast menu
to complement their coffee, Karma is a wonderful place to
not only wake up, but become a bit more conscious. Also a
second location in Kazimierz at ul. w. Wawrzyca 9/2 (D-7,
open Thu-Sun only, 10:00 - 16:00).QA2, ul. Krupnicza 12,
tel. (+48) 662 38 72 81, www.karmaroasters.com. Open
08:00 - 20:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. T6GBSW
Cafs
KOLANKO N6
One of Kazimierzs most under-appreciated venues, Kolanko
has plenty going for it. The main attractions have to be the
large garden with plenty of summertime shade and winter
warmth, and the occasional concerts that take place in the
venue space beyond it (check their FB page). Dont forget the
cheap menu of soups, salads and creatively-stuffed sweet
and savoury crepes, however; nor the delicious and toooften overlooked local amber and dark beers on draught.
Quirky attic knickknacks combined with klezmer and world
music selections give Kolanko 6 an escapist atmosphere
well-appreciated by couples, laptoppers and loners like
ourselves. Recommended.QE6, ul. Jzefa 17, tel. (+48)
12 292 03 20, www.kolanko.net. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Thu
08:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 08:00 - 01:00. 6GBSW
MEHO CAFE
Long one of our favourite places for a respite in Krakw, the
magnificent gardens and grounds of the Mehoffer House
have been made into the majority seating area of the
otherwise tiny Meho Cafe at the back of the estate. Full of
roses and fruit trees, this expansive oasis is well-maintained
and completely uncluttered, making it one of the most
peaceful, pleasant places to bring your book and enjoy a
coffee, arrange an evening beer rendezvous, or select from
their menu of tasty, impossibly under-priced eats. Open
early with a full breakfast menu, if youve had enough of
the bustle of the market square, theres no better, more
magical place in Krakw to start the day or unwind in the
sun than here. Highly recommended.QA2, ul. Krupnicza
26, tel. (+48) 600 48 00 49, www.mehocafe.pl. Open
09:00 - 22:00. T6GBSW
NOWOROLSKI
This local classic inside the Cloth Hall has seen the
citys highs and lows since opening in 1910. Famous as
Comrade Lenins preferred hangout during his visits, WWII
occupation saw Noworolski become the top haunt of Nazi
nabobs, before being commandeered by the communist
authorities during the PRL era. Things have changed little
here, making Noworolski a creaky throwback favoured
today by well-dressed locals in the autumn of their years,
but live piano concerts and the exquisite art nouveau
interiors by Jzef Mehoffer make it well worth a look. You
can find cheaper and better coffee, but it wont be served
against such an atmospheric backdrop.QC3, Rynek
Gwny 1, tel. (+48) 515 10 09 98, www.noworolski.com.
pl. Open 08:30 - 24:00. EGSW
SODKI WIERZYNEK
This classy cafe/shop on the ground floor of Krakws most
famous dining destination is everything youd expect based
on its unrivalled pedigree. Enjoy the prime Rynek real estate
while indulging in gourmet coffee and cakes, pralines,
truffles, macaroons, chocolate figures and more - all of
which are made on-site and can be taken home in snazzy
gift-boxes; or comfortably order later from their online shop.
slodkiwierzynek.pl. Open 08:30 - 22:00. GBSW
April - May 2016
57
Nightlife
Spreading down to the Wisa River (with a view of Skaka, p.90), Forum Przestrzenie (p.60) offers one of the citys biggest beer gardens (p.65).
If you believe urban legend (like we do) Krakw has the highest
density of bars and clubs in the world. Simply hundreds of
drinking dens can be found in cellars and courtyards stretching
from the Old Town to Kazimierz and beyond. Keeping them
open, of course, are thousands of students, and the millions of
tourists that flock to Krakw every year. With increased tourism
comes increased prices, however, and these days you can
expect to pay 7-10z (2-3 Euros) for a large beer.
For clubbing, the main hedonist high streets are Floriaska
(C-2/3) and Szewska (B-3) where nary a medieval cellar
will be left unthronged by sexed-up students on a Friday or
Saturday night; you can also expect most clubs to charge
a cover of anywhere from 5-20z those nights. While the
opening hours we list here are confirmed by the venues
themselves, most are rather flexible; basically if people are
drinking, the barman is pouring. Note that bars and clubs
in the Kazimierz district have their own separate section in
the guide on page 64.
Unfortunately, space is limited in our print guide, so use
our website - krakow.inyourpocket.com - to find reviews
of almost every drinking locale in town, and leave us your
comments about all of those which youve visited. Below
is a list of nightlife recommendations depending on what
youre looking for.
COCKTAILS
Those who want the sultriness of a strip club without the
laddish antics,can try The Piano Rouge (p.62) - essentially
Krakws version of the Moulin Rouge. Baroque (p.59)
offers excellent cocktails in an upscale atmosphere, while
in Kazimierz try Le Scandale (p.64) for expert drinks and
sharp company, or visit Zenit (p.38) for signature drinks .
CRAFT BEER
Microbrews are all the rage in Krakw, so theres simply no
excuse for drinking bad beer anymore. Take your tipples in
House of Beer (p.60), Viva La Pinta (p.61) or Ursa Maior
(p.65) and you can officially consider yourself a beer snob.
STUDENTS
Not the most discriminating demographic, students
will go anywhere theres cheap drinks - namely Pijalnia
Wdki i Piwa (p.54). Those who like to dress up and dance,
meanwhile, head to Lokal, Frantic (p.62) and Spoem
Deluxe (p.63).
LADS
Irish Pub Pod Papugami (p.60) and Bierhalle (p.32) where matches are on and the staff are used to boisterous
behaviour - welcome stag groups, after which you can try
your Travolta in Lokal (p.62). Bulldog Bar (p.59) basically
never closes, or go a bit more civilised by sampling 200+
Polish and foreign ales at House Of Beer (p.60).
COUPLES
Couples looking for some face time should go wine tasting
in Bottiglieria 1881 (p.65), catch a jazz concert in PiecArt
(p.62), lounge out in Shisha Club (p.60), or converse by
candlelight in Mleczarnia or Eszeweria (p.64).
ALTERNATIVE
Take your foreign language skills to Teatro Cubano (p.61),
your tattoos, tight pants and non-prescription specs to
Forum Przestrzenie (p.60) or Miejsce (p.64), and your
long hair and black nail polish to Antycafe (p.59).
Nightlife
food better, the prices more fair and the atmosphere less
untakeable than expected.QC3, Pl. Mariacki 1/4. Open
09:00 - 03:00, Thu-Sat 24hrs. EGBW
SYMBOL KEY
N Credit cards not accepted
G No smoking
6 Animal friendly
X Smoking room available
E Live music
W Wi-fi connection
B Outside seating
BARS & PUBS

ANTYCAFE
As tempting as it would be to call Antycafe a hipster haven,
since mocking hipsters is more hip than being one these
days, we wouldnt want to do this eclectic establishment
that disservice. Between the two full bars on opposite ends
of this 30m long anti-caf, youll find an array of candlelit
nooks, an assortment of eccentric, somewhat sinister art,
great music, and a very unique, very cool vibe indeed. True
to its name, the alternative atmosphere belies more of an
edgy bar than a quaint caf, and with a great beer selection
and one of the least ostracising smoking sections in the
Old Town, youve all the more reason to occupy a table. If
you can find a free one, that is.QC2, ul. Sawkowska 12,
tel. (+48) 506 48 18 88, www.antycafe.pl. Open 12:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. UNXW
BAROQUE
Over several rooms of plush seating, high fashion
photographs, dangling chandeliers and a spacious
garden during the warmer part of the year, Baroque is a
sharp, modern space that mixes the new with the old.
Seductively attractive, its range of cocktails is among the
best in the city; choose from knock-out creations like the
Polish Spring Punch or put your head down and do your
best to rip through the 100-plus vodkas on the list. While
Krakws mojito love-affair continues unabated, Baroques
still looks the best and comes in positively huge portions.
Theres a full menu of food to peruse, and on weekends the
downstairs turns into a dance club, making this one of the
most complete venues in town.QC2, ul. w. Jana 16, tel.
(+48) 12 422 01 06, www.baroque.com.pl. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 04:00. BXW
NEW
BULLDOG BAR
This small (and quite frankly cramped) bar/restaurant next
to St. Marys is aimed directly at British tourists. During the
day its busy and loud, but certainly civilised, as punters
watch the footie while ploughing through full English
breakfasts (30z), bangers and mash, fish and chips (26z),
burgers and beer; in the evening its all sticky floors and
shoulder-to-shoulder mad dog shots (vodka+raspberry
syrup+Tabasco). With a working-class aesthetic, timber on
the walls, tip-proof tables and almost no closing time - this
isnt your typical pub, but there is a certain comfort to its
inherent Britishness. We were a bit surprised to find the
BUNKIER CAFE (THE BUNKER)

Attached to Krakws best contemporary art gallery, this
enclosed terrace bar/cafe on the Planty resembles a spacious
greenhouse wherein the plants have been replaced with
couples, happy hour colleagues and English teachers giving
private lessons around wobbly tables and chairs, and a
sandbox for kids to dig through in summer. A year-round
pleasure (thanks to plenty of heaters), Bunkiers inviting
atmosphere is marred only by the slow to completely
negligible table service that cant be circumnavigated.QB2,
Pl. Szczepaski 3a, tel. (+48) 12 431 05 85, bunkiercafe.pl.
Open 09:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. BXW
HARD ROCK CAFE
Sit back enjoying your cocktail or beer overlooking the
market square and Cloth Hall from Hard Rocks modern splitlevel bar. The chaps here know how to make that drink and
the smiling faces can sometimes be all you need after a long
day facing stern museum curators. This is also one of the only
places in town that has a happy hour, which ironically starts
after 22:00. Overall, HRC isnt the cheapest place in town,
but its one of comfort for many.QC3, Rynek Gwny/Pl.
Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429 11 55, www.hardrock.com/
krakow. Open 10:00 - 02:00. 6UGBW
FORUM PRZESTRZENIE
Luxury Shisha Club

in town
Maly Rynek 2-3, 31-041 Krakw
tel. +48 690 095 485
manager@shishaclub.pl
www.shishaclub.pl
April - May 2016
59
Nightlife
The Best
Guinness
in Poland!!!
Awarded first place for quality in

Polands Guinness Competition.
ul. w. Jana 18, Tel. 012 422 61 01, 012 422 82 99, www.podpapugami.krakow.pl
Open: Mon Sun 12.00 Till the last guest
In the former reception lobby of the Soviet-era Forum

Hotel, Forum Przestrzenie is one of Krakws most
original, intriguing and effortlessly cool locales. The
owners have simply added dozens of bean bags,
sofas and a bit of street art sensibility to the original
interiors, assembled a highly competent kitchen to
create stellar sandwiches, salads and pizzas, stocked
the bar with decent beer, and watched the talented,
tattooed post-college crowd (hipsters you might call
them) turn this vast riverside venue into the trendiest
place to be day or night. With great views and plenty
of space, in warm months their huge riverside terrace
is sprawling with beach chairs, while inside theres
enough space for ping-pong tables and foosball. DJ
parties and other events are a constant, making Forum
one of the most unpredictable and exciting venues in
town.QI4, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 28, tel. (+48) 515
54 40 97, www.forumprzestrzenie.com. Open 10:00
- 02:00. EGBW
HOUSE OF BEER
With over 200 bottles and 21 draught beers, this highceilinged pub full of dark wooden furnishings and large
leather sofas is serious about improving the beer culture
of Polands drinking capital. Full of foreigners and locals
alike, the atmosphere is friendly without being overly
laddish, or having the unnecessary and all too common
distraction of TVs nattering in the background. Some
bottles can be a bit pricey so find out what the damage
Irish Pub
Certified quality Guinness,
a wide range of whiskey,
live Irish music and live
sports on a big screen in
a great atmosphere in one
of Krakows oldest and
biggest pubs.
Two bars
Pool Darts
SKY TV
(All matches shown)
is before asking the barman to uncork one, or try the

local ales on draught for more of a bargain.QD3, ul. w.
Tomasza 35 (entrance ul. w. Krzya 13), tel. (+48) 530
129 147, www.houseofbeerkrakow.com. Open 14:00 02:00. GW
IRISH PUB POD PAPUGAMI
A nice amalgamation of classic Irish pub and Cracovian
cellar bar. Over two levels full of wooden fittings, Irish
bric-a-brac, a billiards table, darts, plasma screens
streaming sports, fresh baked pizza and pints of Murphys,
Guinness and cider, Pod Papugami has a friendly sociable
atmosphere beloved by lads and gentlemen alike. A great
place to meet people and find out just what exactly the
craic is, PP actually captures everything we like about being
in an Irish bar.QC2, ul. w. Jana 18, tel. (+48) 12 422 61
01, www.podpapugami.krakow.pl. Open 12:00 - 02:00.
UXW
NEW
SHISHA CLUB BY BOLLYWOOD
An Indian-owned den of oriental exotica, Shisha Clubs
cup runneth over with draped fabrics, oriental rugs,
stained glass lanterns, colourful cushions and intricate
tiles. Navigate an underground labyrinth of dimly-lit
rooms before settling down in the plush nook of your
choice and selecting from five flavours of tobacco (35z
and up), plus drinks from the full bar. Ideal for a quiet
make out session with your Queen Jasmine, or a sedated
Nightlife
evening with friends.QC3, May Rynek 2, tel. (+48)
690 09 54 85, www.shishaclub.pl. Open 14:00 - 02:00.
XW
NEW
TEATRO CUBANO
Effectively creating the sultry atmosphere of a Havana
side-street as you shuffle through the alleyway strung
with lights and packed with up-all-night backpackers
into the rhythmic bar - complete with linen hanging
on the line, a stage for frequent live acts, and a huge
screen projecting images of life in the Cuban capital
- this vivacious venue is a forceful breath of fresh air.
Full of students and travellers from the Little Havana
Hostel upstairs, Teatro Cubano is a perfect place to get
your buzz on with cheap beer and mixed drinks served
fast by efficient barmen, and you can order platters
of sliders (mini-burgers) from the adjoining Papitos
street food stand. Diversity is something Krakw could
use more of, and this place embraces it.QB3, ul.
Jagielloska 10, tel. (+48) 795 19 11 70. Open 14:00
- 04:00. E
THE STAGE
A proper pool hall with a handsome design and large
windows that practically put the action happening inside
out onto the sidewalk, The Stage is actually more than just
a classy billiards club. Despite being the most professional
place in town to rack em up (they have 7 tables costing 1523z/hr), as the name suggests, the stage itself is the focus
here, with regular events including concerts, cabarets,
and karaoke with a live band (check online to see whats
up). They also have a full bar, pizza and snacks, live sports
transmissions, and a library of books to peruse. Very friendly
and laid-back, its basically the perfect neighbourhood pub.
QB1, ul. obzowska 3, tel. (+48) 12 681 63 85, www.
thestage.pl. Open 13:00 - 01:00. UEGW
VIVA LA PINTA
Pinta has been one of PLs most popular and most-awarded
microbreweries since 2011 when it began producing craft
ales in Zawiercie, just 70km northwest of Krakw. Hidden off
ul. Floriaska, this - their flagship brew-pub - is rightfully one
of the trendiest locales in town for hipsters and hop-heads.
Offering 14 delicious draughts and plenty more in the packed
fridge, the selection isnt limited to Pinta ales alone, showing
an admirable solidarity among PLs small indie breweries. The
short menu features some dishes made with their ales, but
isnt nearly as special as the drinks - one of which is sure to
meet even the most distinct and demanding of tastes.QC3,
ul. Florianska 13, tel. (+48) 12 421 05 90. Open 16:00 01:00, Fri, Sat 16:00 - 02:00, Sun 14:00 - 01:00. GBW
7 pool tables
fully equipped bar
with pizza and snacks
broadcasting sport events
(Champions League, Premiership, La Liga)
live music
e Stage
obzowska 3, 31-139 Krakw

City Essentials App
www.thestage.pl
manager@thestage.com
Reservations: +48 126 816 385
April - May 2016
61
Nightlife
LIVE MUSIC & JAZZ
Harris Piano Jazz Bar
HARRIS PIANO JAZZ BAR

This downstairs jazz den is host to outstanding concerts
daily, yet remains one of our least favourite venues
thanks to the small, cluttered seating arrangement: If
you havent reserved a table for the show, youll find
nowhere to sit and if you have reserved a chair, once
you take your seat youll find it a trial to get up again.
Aggravating the dilemma are staff on the market
square baiting more people past the ticket vendors,
where theyll then have no view of the action on stage.
Harris now offers food until 24:00, however, so at least
theyll feed you.QC3, Rynek Gwny 28, tel. (+48)
12 421 57 41, www.harris.krakow.pl. Open 11:00 02:00, Fri 11:00 - 03:00, Sat 10:00 - 03:00, Sun 10:00
- 02:00. EGBW
PIECART
The legend of this esteemed jazz den dates back to
1999, and it has managed to remain at the forefront
of Krakws respected jazz scene ever since, attracting
some of the biggest names in the world jazz scene
to its stage. Live concerts take place almost nightly
(check their website for exact details) in the vaulted
brick cellars, attracting an artsy crowd of jazz playing
peers and purists. A recent expansion upstairs onto ul.
Szewska has made PiecArt more inviting than ever,
with a classy coffee and whiskey bar, featuring the
longest bar in town and silent films flickering on the
wall.QC3, ul. Szewska 12, tel. (+48) 12 429 16 02,
www.piecart.pl. Open 12:00 - 02:00. EGW
THE PIANO ROUGE
The red-light interior of this opulent underground
venue on the market square embraces burlesque
sensuality with boudoir curtains, velvet cushions,
plush loveseats, exotic lamps and an outstanding
bartop lined with piano keys. The Parisian decadence is
matched perfectly with attentive staff in sexy evening
attire, great cocktails and European fare, and live piano
jazz, pop and soul performances that take place every
day from 21:00 - 24:00.QC3, Rynek Gwny 46, tel.
(+48) 12 431 03 33, www.thepianorouge.com.pl.
Open 10:00 - 02:00. EGBW
CLUBS
BACCARAT
Walk beyond the velvet rope of Baccarat and you notice one
thing immediately: a lot of money has been spent on making
this arguably the most stylish and extravagant music club in
Krakw. Covered in plush upholstery and full of fine touches
including every elegant chandelier and lamp, the giant
mirrorball DJ station, and even a room with a dance-pole
and wall-size mirror that can be coyly curtained off, Baccarat
clearly raises the bar on Krakws nightlife scene. Though
theyve since added a smoking room, this swanky swish tank
was the first to go completely non-smoking in the days of the
dingy Krakw cellar club, which might explain why it still looks
as great as ever. Expect to pay a small cover after 23:00.QC3,
ul. Stolarska 13, tel. (+48) 695 11 67 60, www.baccaratclub.
pl. Open Thu, Fri, Sat only: 21:00 - 04:00. XW
FRANTIC
Dance alongside hourglass figures in what asserts itself
as one of Krakws best clubs/meat markets. The design
is your typical Cracovian cellar contrast of rough exposed
rock, modern-minimal decor and illuminated boxes, but
the sound system lures some of the best DJs around to
put together a regular programme of top parties for Polish
pussycats and their savvy suitors. A feast of flesh and fast
times for those with well-rehearsed chat-up lines eager to
jump inside the cats pyjamas.QC3, ul. Szewska 5, tel.
(+48) 12 423 04 83, www.frantic.pl. Open 22:30 - 04:00,
Fri 22:50 - 04:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Sun. XW
KLUB 30
If youre tired of mingling with students and backpackers,
or generally feeling like a geezer when you want to hit the
town, we have a somewhat surprising recommendation
- Klub 30, the largest club in Krakw. With four floors
covering over 1000m2 of sleek walls, modern lighting,
and plush colourful surfaces, Klub 30 looks the part of a
cutting edge club, and despite a strict 25+ policy at the
door, its popularity actually overcomes its size. The music is
hardly groundbreaking, but you have three dance-floors to
choose from - each with their own bar and distinct music and a theres smoking lounge at the top. Instead of feeling
like you have to prove you can keep up with the kids, heres
a club where you can enjoy behaving like one amongst
your peers.QA5, ul. Kociuszki 3, tel. (+48) 725 70 02
15, www.klub30.pl. Open Fri, Sat only 21:00 - 04:00. X
NEW
LOKAL
A vast, cavernous and circuitous Cracovian cellar club right
on the Rynek that features 3 bars, 2 dancefloors, a smoking
room, plenty of snogging nooks and nightly parties that
are always free, Lokal achieves an all-inclusive atmosphere
that somehow maintains a shred of urban cool, despite the
inebriated exuberance of the sexy students that make up
the crowd. The design isnt much aside from the medieval
foundations and some well-deployed epilepsy-inducing
LEDS (also the fact that this bar is brought to you by
Nightlife
Ballantines is hard to miss), and the booming music is mostly
contemporary chest-bouncing dance hits, but anyone
looking for a full aviary of young local birds to chat up will
be well-pleased.QC3, Rynek Gwny 6 (entrance from
ul.Sienna), tel. (+48) 735 00 17 91. Open 12:00 - 04:00. X
SPOEM DELUXE
This new off-shoot of the classic, communist-themed
Spoem club so successfully captures the atmosphere and
style of its predecessor that it would have been more aptly
dubbed Spoem Redux. With more space than ever for the
surprisingly stylish Soviet-era wallpaper patterns, neons,
and other colourful kitsch that earn it its namesake, Spoem
Deluxe delivers a separate space for smoking and a mercifully
self-contained dance area where the DJ again spins nostalgic
pop hits inside a 1968 van, but without making conversation
elsewhere impossible. Though theres a dance party every
night (except Mon & Wed, which host karaoke), craft beers
and boardgames further let you know that this isnt a typical
nightclub, but one where you can come as you are (no
cover!) and only hit the dancefloor if the mood strikes you.
Thats our kind of place and well certainly be back.QD2, ul.
Floriaska 53, tel. (+48) 12 341 57 51. Open 18:00 - 03:00,
Wed, Thu 18:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 18:00 - 05:00. XW
ul. St. Jan 10, Krakow

+48 12 430 61 64 (call after 8 pm)
+48 510 481 551
Open: 7pm - 4am, Mon - Sun
www.paradiseclub.pl
THE BEST
STRIP CLUB
IN CRACOW
NEW
SZPITALNA 1
This down-the-rabbithole music club near May Rynek has
a slightly scruffy, dive disposition, but thats the appeal
(for us, anyway). Descend the stairs, then more stairs, to
find a space with several stage and dance areas where
alternative rock and blues concerts take place at least once
a week, with DJs shattering ear drums on the weekends
with techno, electronic and drum&bass sounds. The superfriendly international bar staff contribute immensely to the
atmosphere, and depending on the evening you might find
a laid-back ex-pat music-and-brewze session, or a sweaty,
writhing student sexpit; check their FB page for prognosis.
QC3, ul. Szpitalna 1, tel. (+48) 12 430 66 61. Open 20:00
- 03:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 20:00 - 05:00. EBXW
ADULT ENTERTAINMENT
PARADISE CLUB
Boy will be boys they say, and the shocking growth of
strip clubs inside the UNESCO-listed Old Town in recent
years would seem to confirm that men become lads
when they go abroad. Unfortunately, with the growth
of Krakws naughty clubs come rumours of scams and
shady, sometimes dangerous dealings, which is why we list
Paradise Club in our guide. Right in the centre, enter and
enjoy, and leave when you want without being extorted
for overpriced drinks or having to call a cab to get back to
the Old Town. Inside youll find an executive atmosphere
and plush leather booths surrounding the dance area, so
you wont need to get the binoculars out to observe these
birds of Paradise preening themselves on the clubs two gogo poles.QC2, ul. w. Jana 10, tel. (+48) 510 48 15 51,
www.paradiseclub.pl. Open 20:00 - 04:00. X
THE PLACE
WHERE DREAMS
COME TRUE
April - May 2016
63
Kazimierz Nightlife
out for hip nostalgics with hand-rolled cigarettes dangling
off their lips. Perfect for ducking the tourists, having a quiet
drink and catching the vibe of the neighbourhood, the
large seasonal garden is lush oasis, and the restroom may
be the most romantic in town (no wonder theres a queue).
QD6, ul. Jzefa 9, tel. (+48) 517 49 19 27. Open 10:00 02:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 05:00. UNBXW
Alchemia
When the steady revitalisation of Krakws former Jewish

district began back in the 1990s, much of the investment
came from business owners able to purchase derelict
buildings, fill them with the curbside detritus pervading
the area that passes for furniture, add a liquor shelf and
presto! - open a dark, dishevelled bar that perfectly
captured the spirit of the neighbourhood. The district
quickly became synonymous with cafe/bars choked with
smoke, candlelight, antiques and bohemians, where under
the stewardship of alcohol one might be able to commune
with a lost, forgotten world beneath the haze. As the areas
clean-up, aided by the 1993 release of Schindlers List,
brought more and more tourists to its historical sights,
Kazimierz went through a renaissance that saw it quickly
develop into the citys hippest neighbourhood. Today the
area is chock-a-block with bars, clubs and restaurants, even
ousting the Old Town per square metre, and though a trace
of that original charisma vanishes with each new cocktail
bar opening, there is no better place in Krakw for a night
out. Kazimierzs history makes it a requisite stop for tourists,
but it is the districts nightlife that gives it its true vitality and
much of the mystique it still carries today.
ALCHEMIA
One of Krakws most evocative bars, the aptly-named
Alchemia perfectly captures the sepia candlelight, forgotten
photographs and antique intrigues of the former Jewish
district. A dim bohemian cafe by day, in the evenings
Alchemias murky mystique metamorphoses blood into beer
for the ruddy regulars and excitable tourists queuing before
the indifferent bar staff. The cellar, when its not being used
as a student disco, plays host to some of the best concerts in
town and is a prime participant in annual jazz and klezmer
festivals, and the adjacent Alchemia od Kuchni serves a full
menu of excellent eats until 23:00 (24:00 Fri & Sat). Essential in
every way.QE6, ul. Estery 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 22 00, www.
alchemia.com.pl. Open 09:00 - 03:00, Mon 10:00 - 03:00,
Fri, Sat 09:00 - 04:00, Sun 09:00 - 02:00. EBXW
ESZEWERIA
Perhaps embodying the spirit of Kazimierz more than
any bar not directly on Plac Nowy, Eszewerias old world
antiques, candelabras, frosty mirrors and murky, stencilled
walls once played host to some of the citys most novel
concerts, however these days its more of a sleepy hang64 Krakw In Your Pocket
LE SCANDALE
Right on Plac Nowy (and outclassing most of the
neighbourhood), Le Scandale unfolds over a series of
sleek rooms draped with sultry ladies and sharp-dressed
business sharks, before revealing an enormous garden
(heated in winter) in the back, which includes a smoking
section, second bar, and a grillmaster cooking up delicious
steaks right in front of you. Home to a large selection of
whiskey, rum, and some of the best cocktails in Krakw, Le
Scandale also features a full fusion-inspired menu (served
late) and sexy service. This is modern Krakw at its finest you may not want to leave.QD6, Pl. Nowy 9, tel. (+48) 12
430 68 55, www.lescandale.pl. Open 08:00 - 01:00, Fri,
Sat 08:00 - 03:00. UEBXW
MIEJSCE
Known simply as The Place in Polish, Miejsce offers a solid
range of homemade vodkas (nalewki), craft beers and signature
cocktails in intimate, artsy atmosphere thats a bit like a hipster
house party. With half the patrons not hesitating to go behind
the bar themselves, here youve put yourself at the centre of
a closely-knit social scene, which a flapper dress or oversized
spectacles and tight pants will ease your integration into, if
thats the goal. Decked out in a rainbow of chairs and lamps
of different shapes and sizes, offset by hastily painted white
walls and fantastic Polish film posters, Miejsce is effortlessly
original and offers a nice departure from the brooding, gloomy
nostalgia of the districts other offerings.QD6, ul. Estery 1,
tel. (+48) 608 49 87 37, www.miejsce.com.pl. Open 10:00 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. UGBW
MLECZARNIA
In summer this is the most glorious beer garden in Krakw,
and right next to an easily recognisable film set from
Spielbergs Schindlers List. If that parade gets rained on, or
you find yourself here during the dregs of winter, take solace
in the cross-street interior with its Old World atmosphere
of candlelight, rickety furniture, murky portraits, wooden
floors and wide-open, floor to ceiling street-side windows
(not to mention the enchanting bathroom). A great place
for a romantic evening conversation or afternoon coffee
with a book, this is what the whole of Kazimierz was once
about: taking things as they come. Recommended.QD6,
ul. Meiselsa 20, tel. (+48) 12 421 85 32, www.mle.pl.
Open 10:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 04:00. GBW
MOSTOWA ART CAFE
This seemingly nondescript gallery/cafe/bar is the linchpin
in a raft of new venues that have turned this quiet street
between Plac Wolnica and the pedestrian bridge to
Podgrze into one of the hippest places to hang out
Kazimierz Nightlife
BEER GARDENS
Mleczarnia beer garden.
these days. In warm weather the small interior of white

walls dressed in art canvases spills out onto the sidewalk
as young people compete for a place to pass the time
drinking delicious microbrews and homemade vodkas
served out of a tiny fridge. Check their FB profile to see
what art films theyll be screening this week. It doesnt
take much, but whatever it is - this place has it. If you dont
know, now you know, hipster.QE7, ul. Mostowa 8, tel.
(+48) 730 48 04 77. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 24:00. GBW
SINGER
One of the first bars in Kazimierz, Singer set the table for
all that was to come, essentially inventing the evocative
aesthetic of cracked mirrors, dusky paintings, rickety
antiques and candlelight associated with the district today.
Despite its long tenure, lofty reputation and intrusion of
tourists, today Singer still holds all the magic it did when
it first opened. A charismatic, even chimerical cafe by day,
Singer hits its stride around 03:00 when tabletops turn into
dancefloors, the regulars abandon their drinks to dip and
spin each other to an energetic mix of gypsy, klezmer, celtic
and swing music, the entire bar begins to feel like a ferris
wheel ready to fly off its axis and the boundaries of time are
obliterated. Yeah, weve had a few good ones here.QD6,
ul. Izaaka 1, tel. (+48) 12 292 06 22. Open 09:00 - 03:00,
Fri, Sat 09:00 - 06:00. XW
NEW
URSA MAIOR CONCEPT STORE & PUB
Ursa Maior is a small Polish microbrewery from the
Bieszczady Mountains - a wild, dreamy region on the
Ukrainian border full of wolves, bears and stars. As such,
theres a certain wild, dreamy spirit to their small flagship
pub in Krakw, which features a rustic-DIY design, and a
staff and clientele that both look like they might have all
their worldly belongings in a bindle behind the bar, ready
to head on down the road at a moments notice, but slowly
enjoying the present moment one pint at a time. In terms
of the Concept Store (which is a bit of a stretch) they also
sell some kooky bits of folk art presumably spawned by
mountain folk. Choose from 21 delicious craft beers (6 on
draught), including the dangerously drinkable nieg na
Beniowej (Snow in Beniowa) American Golden Ale.QD7,
Pl. Wolnica 10, tel. (+48) 730 56 58 88, www.ursamaior.
pl/krakow. Open 13:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 13:00 - 02:00.
GBW
With more bars per capita than any other city in Europe,
suddenly every single one has an outdoor patio full of
furniture the moment the sun comes out. So which to
choose? If you want to get away from the Rynek (where
prices are a bit rich), Old Town alternatives include the
popular nook known as Doubting Thomas Lane (ul.
w. Tomasza, C3), Viva La Pinta (p.61), and Bunkier
Cafe (p.59) - a positively huge terrace on the Planty.
Track down to Kazimierz, however, to enjoy alfresco
drinking at its finest - Plac Nowy (D6) is an obvious
choice, but note that Le Scandale (p.64) has plenty
of space hidden in its courtyard. For the districts most
scenic garden head to Mleczarnia (p.64), and dont
forget ul. Szeroka (E6) - less lively than Plac Nowy,
but less grubby as well, and it catches sun later in
the evening. One of Krakws largest gardens is the
sprawling patio attached to hip alternative hangout
Forum Przestrzenie (p.60).
WINE BARS
BOTTIGLIERIA 1881
Discreetly hidden on a side street off Plac Wolnica, this
small, intimate wine bar exudes class and taste with a
sharp decr of fine stonework and aged rough-hewn
timber, an open kitchen, VIP service, and an expertly
stocked wine cellar (of course). Chef Pawe Kras has
put together a mouth-watering and mercifully concise
menu of delicious dishes, and tailor-makes a tantalising
assortment of fresh tapas (4z each) right before your
eyes, while sommelier Micha Jancik complements
them perfectly with his recommendations. A great
place for business or courtship, Bottiglieria received an
Award of Excellence by Wine Spectator magazine, and
recently won a top local award for their cuisine. Hardly
a surprise, since there are embarrassingly few venues
in Krakw as beautifully elegant and unique as this
one.QE7, ul. Bocheska 5, tel. (+48) 660 66 17 56,
www.1881.pl. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00.
Closed Mon. GW
L CONCEPT 13 BAR & RESTAURANT
Formerly Bar 13, this rebranded bar and restaurant
now serves modern upscale Polish food with Italian
influences, benefiting from the select vintages and local
seasonal delicacies of their adjacent delicatessen and
wine shop. Sit at the bar, or in their dining room in front
of the open kitchen, and enjoy an exclusive selection
of red, white and sparkling wines by the glass or the
bottle. Located in Pasa 13, drinking wine in the cellar of
a shopping mall has never been this classy, and it makes
for a welcome break from being teased by the 3000z
shoes for sale nearby.QC3, Rynek Gwny 13 (Pasa
13), tel. (+48) 12 617 02 12, www.vinoteka13.pl. Open
09:00 - 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00. UGBSW
April - May 2016
65
Taking a break on ul. Szeroka in the heart of Kazimierz - Krakws former Jewish district (p.88).
Krakw Sightseeing
Krakw is much more than just cellar bars and sexy ladies
(though that would suffice for most). So put that drink
down, set an alarm, and go discover the magic of this city
- district by district.
Sightseeing
Krakw has always been, in many respects, a charmed city.
With a history that dates back to the 4th century settlement
of Wawel Hill, Krakw has fortuitously avoided destruction
since the pesky Mongols stopped bullying the area in the
13th century, growing into one of the most prominent
cities in Central Europe. The most important city in Poland
not to come out of World War II looking like a trampled
Lego set, even the Soviets failed to leave their mark on
the enchanted city centre during 45 years of supervision,
forced to erect their grey communist Utopia in the outlying
suburb of Nowa Huta. As a result, Krakw is today one of
the most beautiful showpieces of Central Europe - a claim
validated by its historic centres inclusion on the first ever
UNESCO World Heritage List in 1978, along with the nearby
Wieliczka Salt Mine and only ten other places in the world.
A city of majestic architectural monuments, cobbled
thoroughfares, cultural treasures, timeless courtyards,
priceless artworks and legendary beer cellars and gardens,
Krakws historic centre is the pride of Poland.
WHAT TO SEE
Krakws centre can be divided into two main sections - the
Old Town (p.68) and Kazimierz (the former Jewish Quarter,
p.88), with Wawel (the former Royal Castle, p.84) towering
between them. These three areas are requisite for anyone
visiting the city - even if just for a day - and have been given
their own separate treatment with accompanying cultural
listings within this guide. Though one could spend their life
wandering in and out of the cobbled streets, courtyards, cafes,
clubs and museums of the Old Town and Kazimierz (weve
attempted to make a life out of it), dont hesitate to take a
trip across the river into Podgrze (p.94) - arguably the citys
most evocative and mysterious district; the Jewish heritage
trail also naturally leads you from Kazimierz into Podgrze,
where the worst horror of Krakws Nazi occupation played
out and Schindler made a name for himself.
Just west of the Old Town lies Salwator - Krakws greenest
district, and home to one of its most unique outdoor
attractions, Kociuszko Mound (p.82). Within these pages
youll also find a section devoted to Nowa Huta (p.100),
one of only two planned socialist realist cities ever built.
Designed to be the antithesis of everything Krakws
Old Town represents, both culturally and aesthetically,
the commie comforts of Nowa Huta are only a tram
ride away. Those staying in the area for a week or more
should strongly consider day trips to Wieliczka (p.104),
Auschwitz-Birkenau (p.107) and Tarnw (p.110),
information about all of which youll find in our Further
Afield section. However long your stay, the meticulously
updated information in this guide will help you make the
most of it. Enjoy exploring Krakw and Maopolska.

City Essentials App
KRAKW IN 24HRS
Krakws nucleus is the market square (p.68), and as
such, the first thing you should do after dropping off
your bags is figure out how to get there - on foot, or via
krakow.jakdojade.pl (p.12) if youre staying somewhere
beyond the confines of our map on p.139. Exploring
the Royal Route (p.68) and the market square en
route to Wawel can take a full day if done correctly with
short stops/detours for culture, coffee and comfort
food - and its exactly what you should do if youre here
with limited time. Have breakfast in Charlotte (p.34),
and later a filling Polish lunch in Kogel Mogel (p.49), or
go for more familiar fare in Pino (p.34).
Make sure that your time on the market square coincides
with the turning of the hour so you hear the famous
hejna mariacki - the bugle call played from the tower
of St. Marys Basilica (p.72), and visit the churchs
interior to see the magnificent altarpiece. Also take an
hour to visit the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery (p.76)
inside the Cloth Hall and stand in awe of some of the
largest canvases youve ever seen in your life.
After lunch start working your way down ulica
Grodzka (C4) towards Wawel, and make sure that you
stop inside St. Francis Basilica (p.73) quickly to see
Wyspiaskis colourful interiors and mind-blowing
stained glass window. After admiring the apostles
outside the Church of Saints Peter & Paul (p.73),
its on to Wawel Castle (p.84). If theres plenty of
time consider a trip through the State Rooms, or rent
the audioguide for Wawel Cathedral; if not, content
yourself with simply admiring the architecture from the
castles interior courtyards (its free to walk around after
all) and later have a stroll along the riverbanks of the
Wisa River below the castle.
After dark head back to ul. Kanonicza for a romantic
dinner in Pod Nosem (p.50) or La Campana (p.42),
or backtrack a bit more to Pod Anioami (p.52) or
Mid Malina (p.50). After dinner return to the heart
of the Old Town for jazz in PiecArt (p.62), cocktails in
Baroque (p.59), or Polish microbrews in Viva La Pinta
(p.61). For a late night food tourism its Pijalnia Wdki
i Piwa (p.54).
Alternatively, this is your chance to check out
Kazimierz (p.88); if youre interested in a klezmer
concert get to Klezmer Hois (p.44) by 20:00, or just go
straight to Plac Nowy and start drinking in Alchemia
(p.64). Make sure you try at least a few flavoured vodkas
and if they do their magic, head to Singer (p.65) after
midnight to start dancing on tables. For late night
hunger pangs, ordering a zapiekanka (p.46) on Plac
Nowy (p.92) is basically obligatory. Now all thats left to
do is fall in love and stay forever...
April - May 2016
67
The Royal Route

MAIN MARKET SQUARE
Krakws main market square (Rynek) serves as the
citys gravitational centre, and is the natural start and
finish point for any tour of the city. Originally designed
in 1257 - the year Krakw was awarded its charter - the
grid-like layout of the Old Town and its central square
have changed little in the centuries since. Measuring
200 metres square, the Rynek ranks as one of the largest
medieval squares in Europe, and is surrounded by
elegant townhouses, all with their own unique names
and histories. The Rynek has always been the citys natural
assembly point for public celebrations, parades, protests
and even executions; it was here that homage to the
King was sworn until 1596, here that Tadeusz Kociuszko
famously inspired the locals to revolt against foreign rule
in 1794, and here also that Der Fhrer himself announced
the name changed to Adolf Hitler Platz during Nazi
occupation. Fortunately the moniker didnt last long
and today the Rynek remains a stage for Polish culture,
hosting annual Christmas and Easter markets, as well as
numerous festivals and outdoor concerts.
Taking centre stage is the huge Cloth Hall (Sukiennice,
p.76) - effectively the worlds first shopping mall, built
in the 14th century. To this day it is still crammed with
merchant stalls selling amber, lace, woodwork and
assorted tourist tat. Beneath it the hi-tech Rynek
Underground museum (p.82) traces its history, as well
as that of the entire city, while the second floor hosts the
underrated 19th Century Polish Art Gallery (p.76).
On the squares east side stands one of Krakws bestloved monuments - that of Polands most eminent
scribe, Adam Mickiewicz - between the Cloth Hall and
the Ryneks other crowning glory, St. Marys Basilica
(p.72). Dont miss Veit Stoss magnificent altarpiece
inside, or hearing the hourly bugle call played from its
tower (p.72).
On the squares other side is the 70 metre Town Hall
Tower (p.83), the only element of the 14th century Town
Hall remaining after many fires, renovations and shortsighted demolitions. Visitors can ascend up lots of stairs
to the 3rd floor for rather underwhelming views to the
west and south, but we dont really recommend it.QC3.
Conrad Cress/istockphoto.com
FOLLOWING THE ROYAL ROUTE

This walking tour from the train station to the Castle
takes you past most of the Old Towns major sights more info on which youll find in the following pages.
Floriaska Gate
Any exploration of Krakws Old Town should start with

the Royal Route - the historical coronation path of the
Polish kings when Krakw served as the royal capital from
the 14th century to the very end of the 16th century.
Most of the Old Towns prime sights lay along this route
from the Floriaska Gate to Wawel Castle. For many of less
noble lineage, however, the route begins at Krakws train
station (E1), a walk from which to the main market square
is among the most regal and awe-inspiring introductions
to any city in Europe. Following the human traffic from
the station through the ul. Basztowa underpass will plant
you in the green space that encircles the Old Town known
as the Planty (D2, p.79). Ideal for a fair weather stroll,
the Planty was once a series of medieval fortifications
surrounded by a moat. After Polands Third Partition in
the late 18th century, the order came down from Austrian
Emperor Franz Joseph I to dismantle these neglected
structures, however thanks to local effort the northern
parts of the wall were spared, including the magnificent
Barbican and Floriaska Gate. Walking the two blocks
towards the Barbican, take note of the Sowacki Theatre
(D2, p.69) to the left on ul. Szpitalna. A marvellous
Baroque masterpiece from 1893, while its a bit difficult
to infiltrate during the day, buying an affordable ticket to
the theatre is highly recommended. On ahead, the circular
fortress of the Barbican (D2, p.69) was added to the citys
defences in the late 15th century while, directly across
from it, the Floriaska Gate (D2) that officially began
the Royal Route dates back to 1307. Pass through it and
youre on one of Krakws main commercial streets. Behind
the Golden Arches, kebab and souvenir signs dont fail to
notice the architectural detail of the facades. On this street
youll find the Jan Matejko House (C2, p.80), as well as
the under-appreciated Pharmacy Museum (p.81).
The Royal Route

Arriving upon Krakws main market square or Rynek (C3,
p.68), you are now standing in the heart of Poland with
your finger on its pulse. Historically, culturally and spiritually
the Rynek and Wawel may be the two most important
sights in the country (sorry Warsaw). The largest medieval
market square in Central Europe, Krakws Rynek is 200
metres square and functions as the citys social gravitation
point. Lined with cafes and restaurants, filled with people,
pigeons, street performers, musicians and horse-drawn
carriages, this is a place of festivals, concerts, parades and
other events. At its centre lies the impressive Cloth Hall
or Sukiennice (p.76) - a neo-Gothic structure which
has served as a market for merchants since the Middle
Ages, and whose history you can now learn in the Rynek
Underground museum (p.82) housed beneath it, not to
mention the wonderful 19th Century Polish Art Gallery
(p.76) on the first floor. Directly before you as youre leaving
Floriaska is St. Marys Basilica - or Mariacki Cathedral
(p.72) - one of the most dazzling cathedrals in the country
famed for its incredible altarpiece and stained glass. Its
from atop the taller of the two cathedral towers that a
bugler plays an abbreviated tune every hour on the hour dont miss it. On the other side of the square youll find the
Town Hall Tower (p.83), with a viewing platform at the top
(open March - October) and a theatre and restaurant in the
former basement prison.
Leaving the Rynek follow the kings down ul. Grodzka to
Plac Wszystkich witych (C4). To the right is St. Francis
Basilica (B/C4, p.73) with an Art Nouveau interior by
Stanisaw Wyspiaski that should not be missed, while
directly before you are three more incredible Wyspiaski
stained glass windows in a specially-made modern
building. Ulica Grodzka leads you past the Church of
Saints Peter & Paul (C4, p.73) with its striking sculptures
of the 12 disciples before it. Cut across the small square to
your right and youll find yourself on one of Krakws most
handsome streets, ul. Kanonicza. The late Pope John Paul
IIs former residence is at numbers 19-21, which now house
the Archdiocesan Museum (C5, p.77). Kanonicza lets
out directly at the foot of Wawel Castle (B/C5, p.84), the
citys defining landmark. A source of great pride, patriotic
and spiritual strength, Wawel is worth spending half a day
exploring, as well as the Wisa riverbanks below.
Church of Saints Peter & Paul
Jrg Hackemann - dollar photo club
SOWACKI THEATRE
Sergey Novikov - dollar photo club
Regarded today as an architectural masterpiece, the

Sowacki Theatre came under fierce criticism when
construction began, due to the demolition of the
medieval Church of the Holy Ghost to make room for it.
Completed in 1893, Jan Zawiejski modeled his design
on the Paris Opera and the structure is distinguished for
its elaborate facade decorated with allegorical figures.
Sadly, the interior is usually off limits to the public
unless there is a production on, however a pleading
look may be enough to get past this obstacle. The foyer
and marble staircase are supreme examples of fin-desiecle thinking, and the lavish stage curtain featuring
paintings by Henryk Siemiradzki is alone worth the
deviousness needed to sneak in.QD2, Pl. w. Ducha
1, tel. (+48) 12 424 45 25, www.slowacki.krakow.pl.
BARBICAN
Andrzej Rostek - dollar photo club
The showpiece of the citys medieval defences, the

Barbican was built at the end of the 15th century to
protect Krakws main entrance and was connected to
the Floriaska Gate via a drawbridge over the moat that
surrounded it. 24.4 metres in diameter with walls 3m
thick, this masterpiece of medieval military engineering
proved impenetrable and today stands as one of the
only surviving structures of its kind in Europe. Built in
Gothic style, the Krakw Barbican is topped by seven
turrets and includes 130 defensive slots used by archers
and riflemen. Today it hosts various events (medieval
pageants, jousting contests) and can be visited as
an outdoor museum, where youll learn the history
of Krakws defensive walls.QD2, ul. Basztowa,
tel. (+48) 12 422 98 77, www.mhk.pl. Open from
April 8th, 10:30 - 18:00; closed 2nd Mon of each
month. Admission 8/6z, family ticket 16z; includes
admission to the City Defensive Walls. YN
April - May 2016
69
Old Town
Cracow City
Guides
YOUR TRAVEL PARTNER IN POLAND
Professional, licensed city guides of Cracow and

Maopolska region are inviting you to local tours.
s
s
s
s
Half Day City Tour

Half Day City tour and Jewish heritage
Wieliczka Salt Mine local tour
Auschwitz - Birkenau museum local tour
Also available: Full day city tour of Krakw, Zakopane

(winter capital of Poland), Pope John Paul II tour,
Jewish Heritage tour, Czestochowa tour, Ojcow tour
Contact: guides@s-tours.pl
Ph: +48 530 170 780
Office working hours: Mo-Fri 09:00 - 18:00, Sat 08:00 - 15:00
www.s-tours.pl
CARRIAGE RIDES
If youre wondering about the everpopular
antique
horse-drawn carriages that line the
market square, these
handsome vehicles
are available to hire for a leisurely sightseeing trot
around town. Operated by a number of different
companies, routes and prices are individually determined with the driver but the going rate starts from
100z, the most popular route from the market square
to Wawel Hill is generally 150z (30mins), and you can
expect to pay about 350z if you carry on to Kazimierz. Most carriages fit 4-5 people and the number in
your party has no bearing on the price. Unfortunately
the drivers dont disseminate any information about
what youre seeing along the way (see, you might
need this guidebook after all); that bright idea hasnt
occurred to anyone yet. Still, its every girls dream
to be lifted into one of these things, so be prepared.
And dont forget to ask the driver to take your picture;
its the least they can do for the money.QC3, Rynek
Gwny. Carriage rides are generally available every day 10:00 - 22:00, rain or shine.
GUIDED TOURS
If IYPs authoritative print guide, exhaustive web portal and
mobile application just arent enough, there are plenty of
tour companies to choose from in Krakw and we list the
best of them here.
CRACOW TOURS
A variety of tour packages available, including thematic
city centre tours and popular day-trips to Auschwitz,
the Wieliczka salt mines, Zakopane and more.QB2, ul.
Krupnicza 3, tel. (+48) 12 430 07 26, www.cracowtours.
pl. Open 08:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
DISCOVERCRACOW.EU
This helpful tourist office offers walking and electric car
tours of Krakw, as well as airport transfers and excursions
to Wieliczka and other area attractions. Also a currency
exchange and sales point for the Krakw Tourist Card and
museum tickets. Second, smaller location at Rynek Gwny
30 (open 08:00 - 20:00).QC3, ul. w. Jana 2, tel. (+48) 782
44 81 74, www.discovercracow.eu. Open 08:00 - 20:00.
YW

City Essentials App
FREE WALKING TOUR
As advertised, this outfit offers free English-language
walking tours of the Old Town every day at 10:00, 14:00 and
16:00, with tours of Jewish Krakow at 10:30, 13:30 and 16:30.
Both tours last about 2.5 hours, and leave from in front of
St. Marys Basilica on the market square (look for the Free
Walking Tours sign). Given by professional licenced tour
guides, have some cash ready to tip these fine people, and
check their website to see all the other free tours they offer.
Qtel. (+48) 513 87 58 14, www.freewalkingtour.com.
S-TOURS
This family-owned outfit organises personalised guided
tours of Krakw and the surrounding region for individuals,
rather than standardised group trips. Airport transfers and
accommodation can also be arranged. For more info and
prices, contact them by email: guides@s-tours.pl.Qtel.
(+48) 530 17 07 80, www.s-tours.pl.
WOW KRAKOW!
Use WOW KRAKOWs iconic red bus at your leisure, getting
a guided tour of the town as it zips between 11 stops,
where you can get off and on again as you wish. The bus
runs from about 09:30 - 18:30, appearing at each stop
every 45mins (exact schedule online).QD2, ul. Pawia
8, tel. (+48) 601 50 21 29, www.hophopbus.pl. Tickets
60/40z for 24hrs, 90/70z for 48hrs; 40/30z if you just
want the tour without getting on and off the bus; kids
under 12 free.
Old Town
TOURIST INFORMATION
CRACOW CITY TOURS
Also at ul. Floriaska 44 (D-2, tel. 12 421 13 27, open 09:00 21:00).QD1, Pl. Matejki 2, tel. (+48) 12 421 13 33, www.
cracowcitytours.com. Open 07:30 - 17:00. Y
DISCOVERCRACOW.EU
Also at Rynek Gwny 30 (open 08:00 - 20:00).QC3, ul. w.
Jana 2, tel. (+48) 782 44 81 74, www.discovercracow.eu.
Open 08:00 - 20:00.
INFOKRAKW
The official tourist info office run by the city of Krakw, with
four other locations around the Old Town: ul. w. Jana 2 (C-3),
ul. Szpitalna 25 (D-2), ul. Powile 11 (B-5) and Pl. Wszystkich
witych 2 (C-4, Wyspiaski Pavilion).QC3, Rynek Gwny
1/3 (Cloth Hall), tel. (+48) 12 433 73 10, www.infokrakow.
pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00. From May open 09:00 - 19:00.
INFOKRAKW KAZIMIERZ
Information on what to see and whats going on in
Kazimierz.QD6, ul. Jzefa 7, tel. (+48) 12 354 27 28,
www.infokrakow.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00.
JORDAN TOURIST INFORMATION AND
ACCOMMODATION CENTRE
Also at ul. Duga 9 (C-1), the bus station (E-1) and ul. Gsia 8
(Galaxy Hotel, K-3).QD2, ul. Pawia 8, tel. (+48) 12 422 60
91, www.krakowhelp.pl. Open 08:00 - 18:00, Sat 09:00 14:00. Closed Sun.
SEEKRAKOW
Also in the train station (E-1, open 07:00 - 21:00), at ul.
Grodzka 18 (C-4, open 09:00 - 20:00), and Pl. Wszystkich
witych 2 (C-4, open 09:00 - 20:30).QC/D2, ul.
Floriaska 6, tel. (+48) 12 429 44 99, www.seekrakow.
com. Open 08:00 - 20:00.
TOURIST CARD
The enterprising tourist should
consider picking up the Krakw
Tourist Card, a superb piece
of plastic that allows you
free entry to over 40 Krakw
museums (thats basically all of them, except Wawel),
and free travel on trams and buses, day and night including to and from the airport and Wieliczka Salt
Mine. An impressive savings, two and three day cards
are available, priced at 100z and 120z, respectively.
Another option is the Museum & Attractions Pass essentially the same card without free transport, valid
for three days, and priced at 70/60z. Every venue listed
in our guide which accepts the Krakw Tourist Card has
been marked with a Tourist Card Y symbol. Available
at most tourist information offices, for a full list of
vendors and benefits visit www.krakowcard.com.
%
AUSCHWITZ-BIRKENAU
FROM 80 PLN
WIELICZKA SALT MINE
FROM 80 PLN
KRAKW CITY TOUR
FROM 80 PLN
AND MANY OTHERS
April - May 2016
71
Old Town
THE HEJNA
CHURCHES
While the religious sanctuaries in this city are almost
innumerable, weve used a bit of discrimination in only
listing the most remarkable and unavoidable of the bunch
here. The following are all located sequentially along the
Royal Route (p.68), while Kazimierz, Podgrze and Nowa
Huta churches are listed in their respective sections.
ST. MARYS BASILICA
After Tartar raids in the 13th century left the original church
in ruins, St. Marys was rebuilt in Gothic style on its existing
foundations and consecrated in 1320. In the early 15th
century the towers took the iconic form they have today,
when the northern tower was raised to 80m high and
made into a watchtower. From here the hejna mariacki
- the citys famous bugle call - is played every hour on
the hour; dont miss it.
One of the most captivating Cracovian traditions is the

hejna (pronounced hey-now) a short, melodious
bugle call played every hour, on the hour, in the four
cardinal directions from the left tower of St. Mary Basilica
(C3). For centuries it has been the job of local firemen
to climb the 239 steps to the top of the tower, ring the
church bell and perform the hejna precisely on the hour.
A source of pride and family heritage for the few men
chosen to do it, the job requires not only great discipline,
but also bravery as local legend would have it. The first
written mention of the song dates all the way back to
1392, and though its exact origins are unclear, it was
apparently used as a warning of fires or invasions. As the
story goes, in 1241, as Tartar invaders crept near the city
gates for a nefarious nocturnal attack, a night watchman
saw them coming and played the signal from atop the
defensive walls to arouse the slumbering city to arms.
As he did so, an arrow pierced him through the throat,
abruptly suspending the song in mid-melody. To this day,
the tune likewise cuts off in mid-report to symbolise the
citys vigilance, and commemorate the lone guardsman
who woke the city and thereby saved it.
Its a nice story, and since trumpet calls were used
commonly across Europe during medieval times to
open and close the city gates, its entirely conceivable
that the legend is true. However, some have claimed
that the story of the arrow-stricken trumpeter is a
complete fiction made up in the 20th century. Polish
journalist Leszek Mazan even went so far as to suggest
that an American fabricated the whole legend in
1929 (blasphemy!). Whatever its origin, any visitor
or Cracovian will surely attest that the hejnas living
tradition defines and shapes Krakw. In addition to
pleasing visitors able to witness the bugle call live
from the church tower every hour, the tune can also be
heard all over Poland when it is broadcast live over the
radio every day at noon.
Inside, the stained glass windows, blue, star-filled ceiling

and magnificent wooden altarpiece will take your breath
away. The principal work of 15th century German artist
Veit Stoss (aka Wit Stwosz) for twelve painstaking years,
the altar depicts the Virgin Marys Quietus among the
apostles; note, however, that gradual conservation work on
the altar is currently underway, and not all elements may
be on display during your visit. Surrounding the altar are
polychrome paintings by Polish masters Matejko, Mehoffer
and Wyspiaski done in the late 19th century.
The church is available for worship without paying an
entry fee via the main entrance. Tourists are asked to use
a side entrance, however, and not visit during services;
we list the tourist visiting hours below. Tickets (10/5z) are
purchased in a separate building across from the tourist
entrance. Mariacki Tower is also open on Thu, Fri and Sat
only (additional ticket required: 15/10z; no admission for
kids under 7; kids 7-12 must be accompanied by an adult).
QC3, Pl. Mariacki 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 07 37, www.
mariacki.com. Open 11:30 - 18:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00.
Last entrance 15mins before closing. Y
St. Marys Basilica (left) and St. Adalberts Church (right).
Old Town
ST. ADALBERTS
Krakws oldest church sits not unlike a lost orphan at
the southeast corner of the market square - a mad mix
of pre-Roman, Roman, Gothic, Renaissance and Baroque
architecture. The earliest parts of the building date to the
11th century, thus pre-dating the Rynek and explaining its
seemingly random position within it. St. Adalbert had his own
cult following at the time, which explains how it managed to
survive. A look inside is well worth it, not least because the
floor sits some two metres below the surface of the main
square, and a great way to enjoy the church is during the
frequent concerts by the Royal Chamber Orchestra. Note
that late-May renovations may result in only the chapel being
open.QC3, Rynek Gwny, tel. (+48) 12 422 83 52. Open
09:00 - 17:00; no visiting during mass, please. Y
ST. FRANCIS BASILICA
Krakws most colourful church, and our personal favourite,
thanks to the gorgeous Art Nouveau interiors by native son
Stanisaw Wyspiaski, which nicely balance the organic and
geometric with unique floral patterns. Wyspiaski also made
the eight stained-glass windows around 1895, including the
controversial and iconic centrepiece, God the Father in the
Act of Creation. Dating back to the 13th century, St. Francis
Basilica was the first brick building in the city and is well worth
popping in, even for those who could care less for looking at
another church.QC4, Pl. Wszystkich witych 5, tel. (+48)
12 422 53 76, www.franciszkanska.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00
except Sunday when there is no visiting due to mass.
CHURCH OF SAINTS PETER & PAUL

Krakws premier Jesuit Church was built in the
early 1600s, and its crypt serves as the new national
pantheon for Poles distinguished in the arts, science and
culture (Sawomir Mroek was the first interred here in
September 2013). The twelve disciples standing on the
gates outside are the churchs most striking feature,
although the interior has been extensively renovated
and the airy, austere grandeur of this late Renaissance
building is now evident. Possessors of a 46.5m Foucault
Pendulum - a device invented by French physicist Leon
Foucault in 1851 which proves the earths rotation, shows
demonstrating its use generally occur on Thursdays at
10:00, 11:00 and 12:00, but check their website to be
sure.QC4, ul. Grodzka 52a, tel. (+48) 12 350 63 65,
www.apostolowie.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 13:30
- 17:30. Closed Mon.
ST. ANDREWS
St. Andrews offers the finest example of Romanesque
architecture in Krakw. Built between 1079 and 1098, it
has been a place of worship for 900 years and was used
as a refuge and fortress during Tartar invasions. Most of the
relics were looted anyway, making a trip inside a bit of a
letdown. Remodelled by Baldassare Fontana during the
mad-for-all-things-Baroque 18th century, note the pulpit
which resembles a boat - typical of the Baroque style.
QC4, ul. Grodzka 54, tel. (+48) 12 422 16 12. Open by
prior arrangement.
April - May 2016
73
Old Town
KRAKW IYP ONLINE
Due to space restrictions in our print guide, were
actually only able to publish a fraction of all the
excellent content we have on Krakw and the
surrounding region, not to mention all of Poland. Visit
our website - poland.inyourpocket.com - to see just
how much of the country we cover, and to download
guides to Warsaw, Gdask, Wrocaw, Katowice and
other cities you might be travelling to. Below is a small
sampling of great Krakw-related content we didnt
have room for this issue, with links to where youll find
it online. Thanks for reading In Your Pocket!
PASZW CONCENTRATION CAMP
The story of the Holocaust in
Krakw didnt end when the
Jewish Ghetto was liquidated.
Six to eight thousand Jews
were moved to this concentration camp within the citys limits, where the horror continued
to unfold. We have the most
exhaustive English-language guide to the site:
iyp.me/plaszow
LITERARY KRAKW
In October 2013 Krakw was designated a UNESCO
City of Literature. The citys resume includes the first
bookstore in Europe, and Nobel Prize winners for
Literature - Czesaw Miosz and Wisawa Szymborska.
Our guide to Literary Krakw introduces you to the
citys most famous authors and best literary locales:
iyp.me/literarykrakow
STAINED GLASS
Some of Krakws most iconic
works of art arent applied on canvas or carved in stone, but composed of light and glass. Thanks to
local luminaries like Wyspiaski,
Mehoffer and eleski, Krakw is
home to some of the most aweinspiring windows in the world,
and we tell you where to find them here:
iyp.me/krakowstainedglass
MONUMENTS
ADAM MICKIEWICZ
One of the most important statues in Poland, the large
likeness of the romantic poet and national hero Adam
Mickiewicz (1798-1855) was originally unveiled in 1898 to
celebrate the centenary of the great mans birth, and, like so
many other symbols of national pride was destroyed by the
occupying Germans during WWII. The statue that stands in
the Rynek today is a 1955 copy of Teodor Rygiers original,
and is a popular and easily recognisable meeting place.
Lithuanian-born Mickiewicz (whos most famous work, Pan
Tadeusz begins with the words Lithuania, my country! and
who is known and loved by the Lithuanians as Adomas
Mickeviius) never visited Krakw until 35 years after his
death. His body lies at rest in the Cathedral crypts just down
the road at Wawel.QC3, Rynek Gwny.
EROS BENDATO
Among Krakws most well-known landmarks, this
sculpture in the western corner of the market square is
a popular meeting place and at some point serves as a
photographic backdrop for almost every tourist who visits
the city. Affectionately referred to as The Head, the bronze
body parts official title is Eros Bendato (Eros Bound) and is
the work of Polish artist Igor Mitoraj (1944 - 2014). A student
of Tadeusz Kantor at the Krakw School of Art, an exhibition
of 14 of Mitorajs monumental works dressed the Rynek
from October 2003 to January 2004, during which the artist
gifted this work to the city, sparking controversy over what
to do with it. Initially, the sculpture was designated for the
square in front of Galeria Krakowska (E-2), but the artist was
indignant about having his work in front of a commercial
building. Despite protest from historians and many locals,
the sculpture eventually found its current place near the
Town Hall Tower, where it has become an unexpected
tourist attraction. In summer, children can be seen
crawling all over the hollow edifice, sticking their heads
and limbs through the eyeholes for camera-snapping
parents, though winter too often finds it profaned with
trash and foul-smelling liquids. Fans of Mitorajs work will
find another of his large sculptures - titled Luci di Nara adorning the charming courtyard of Collegium Luridicum
(ul. Grodzka 53, C-4), and another in front of the Krakw
Opera building (ul. Lubicz 48, E-2).QB3, Rynek Gwny.
POPE JOHN PAUL II

Born in nearby Wadowice, Karol Wojtya studied at
Jagiellonian University and served as the citys Bishop
before becoming Pope in 1978. Aside from the Vatican,
no city is more associated with the late pope than
Krakw, which remained his spiritual home throughout
his life. IYP takes a look at his life, legacy and some of
the local sites associated with Polands Pope in Krakw
and the surrounding region:
iyp.me/thepope
Old Town
GRUNWALD MONUMENT
The Battle of Grunwald, fought between the joint armies

of Poland and Lithuania against the German-Prussian
Teutonic Knights on July 15, 1410, was one of the largest
battles of Medieval Europe, and is considered one of
the most important military victories in Polish history.
This weighty monument was unveiled in front of an
estimated 160,000 people on the 500th anniversary of the
event in 1910. Unsurprisingly, Antoni Wiwulskis original
masterpiece was destroyed by the occupying Nazis during
WWII and the copy you see today was made from his
original sketches and models in 1976. At the top on his
horse is Polish King Wadysaw Jagieo, his sword pointing
downwards in his right hand. At the front is his cousin
the Lithuanian prince Vytautas (Vitold), who is flanked
on either side by victorious soldiers from the joint army.
The dead man at the front is Urlich von Jungingen, the
Teutonic Orders Grand Master, who lost his life during the
battle.QD1, Pl. Matejki.
JAN MATEJKO
Unveiled as recently as November 2013, this monument
pays homage to one of Polands greatest painters, and one
of Krakws most beloved sons. Famous for his epic and
outsized historical paintings, which have been reproduced
enough to become imprinted within the national psyche,
Matejkos work can be seen throughout Krakw from
Collegium Novum to the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery
in the Cloth Hall, to the monumental polychrome he did
inside St. Marys Basilica in his final years. Educated in
Krakw and later principal of the Academy of Fine Arts,
Matejko also trained an entire generation of great Polish
painters, including Wyspiaski, Mehoffer and Malczewski.
This impressive monument, which depicts the artist seated
within a large picture-frame, is the work of Jan Tutaj, and
located beside the Barbican along what was Matejkos daily
walk from his home to the Fine Arts Academy which now
bears his name on nearby Plac Matejki (also named in his
honour). To learn more about Matejko, visit his home and
museum at ul. Floriaska 41 (p.80).QD2, ul. Basztowa.
April - May 2016
75
Old Town
THE CLOTH HALL
The iconic showpiece at the centre of the market
square, the origins and development of Krakws Cloth
Hall can be traced as those of the city itself. Proof of a
structure at this site dates back to the mid-13th century.
When King Kazimierz the Great approved construction
of a purpose-built trading hall in the mid-14th century,
Krakws importance as an east-west trading post
vastly increased and the city thrived. Though the
name Sukiennice literally refers to textiles and fabrics,
Krakws Cloth Hall saw an array of commodities
bought and sold in its merchant stalls including wax,
spices, leather and silk, as well as lead and salt from
the nearby Wieliczka mines. After a fire in the mid-16th
century, the Sukiennice was given a Renaissance facelift
by Jan Maria Padovano, making it the most magnificent
building in all of Krakw. By the mid-1870s, however,
Poland had been partitioned for nearly a century and
the Cloth Hall was in a rather sorry state; the Austrians
tore down many of the outbuildings, and oversaw the
addition of the neo-Gothic colonnades and outside
arcades by Tomasz Pryliski, a student of Jan Matejko.
The interior was converted into a series of wooden
stalls and in 1879 the first Polish National Museum was
established on the upper floor, making the Cloth Hall
the focus of a huge upsurge of Polish patriotism.
The 20th century saw much of the 19th century
interior replaced, but by the start of the 21st century,
it was again in need of attention in order to meet the
standards of a modern museum or commercial area.
From 2006 to 2010, the interiors were given a complete
modernisation and the 19th Century Polish Art
Gallery (p.76) was reopened on the upper floor. The
buildings sloped attics were converted into lovely
terraces on the east side, where Cafe Sza (p.56) now
offers great views overlooking the market square and
St. Marys Basilica. Opened in 2010, the subterranean
Rynek Underground Museum (p.82) details the
historical development of the area around the market
square, and the historical 1910 Noworolski Cafe (p.57)
on the ground floor boasts Art Nouveau motifs by Jozef
Mehoffer. A stroll through the tourist stalls in the Cloth
Halls central thoroughfare is essential, after which you
can claim that youve been in worlds oldest shopping
mall.QC3, Rynek Gwny 1/3, mnk.pl.
Andrzej Rostek - dollar photo club
MUSEUMS
The museums listed here are in the Old Town, while
Kazimierz, Podgrze and Nowa Huta museums are listed in
their respective sections of the guide.
19TH CENTURY POLISH ART GALLERY
This magnificent and historic exhibition inside the Cloth Hall

covers Polish art from in and around the 19th century, and
its major trends of portraiture and epic historical painting.
Comprising four rooms, the collection is refreshingly small,
giving proper attention to each piece, some of which are
enormous and all of which are gorgeously framed. Almost
everything by Jan Matejko here is rightly considered a national
treasure, and the collection also includes works by Jacek
Malczewski, Jzef Chemoski and Stanisaw Witkiewicz, as
well as Wadysaw Podkowiskis famous Frenzy from 1894.
Like a small slice of the Louvre in Krakw, but without the
crowds, one of the perks of a visit is access to the magnificent
balcony overlooking the market square. Recommended.
QC3, Cloth Hall, Rynek Gwny 3, tel. (+48) 12 433 54 00,
mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Note that opening
hours couldnt be confirmed and may be subject to change.
Admission 14/8z, family ticket 26z, kids 7-16 and students
under 26 (with valid ID) 1z, kids under 7 free; Sun free. Y
ARCHAEOLOGY MUSEUM
Though it may still seem a bit out-dated and underwhelming
to some visitors, particularly in comparison to the citys other
(mostly excellent) museums, Krakws Archaeology Museum
has improved. In addition to the famous Zbruch Idol, regional
Stone Age artefacts and a charming room dedicated to local
clothing from 70,000 BC to the 14th century, the museum
houses a permanent collection of artefacts from ancient Egypt
including some beautiful shrouds, a number of intricately
decorated sarcophagi and some mummified cats; the latter
exhibition is best enjoyed with the aid of an audio guide (5z).
Housed in an old monastery, the biggest highlight of the
Archaeology Museum may be its beautiful garden (1z charge
if you arent visiting the museum) - a great place to relax with
fantastic views of Wawel in the distance.QB4, ul. Poselska 3,
tel. (+48) 12 422 71 00, www.ma.krakow.pl. Open 09:00 15:00, Tue, Thu 09:00 - 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat.
Admission 9/6z, Sun free for permanent exhibitions. YN
Old Town
ARCHDIOCESAN MUSEUM OF CARDINAL
KAROL WOJTYA
John Paul II lived here, twice. Once as Karol Wojtya, the
young priest with a penchant for skiing (his skis are on
show), and later as a bishop, in grander, adjacent rooms.
The Archdiocesan doubles as a small but well-presented
showcase of beautiful sacral art, some dating back to the
13th century. Among the items on display you will find
presents to His Holiness from heads-of-state. All very nice,
but the exhibition will only hold the attention of true papal
enthusiasts, and visitors can expect to be tailed by overzealous curators. Guided tours available for individuals and
groups up to 25 people in French, English and Polish. A
second branch of this museum - the Wojtya Apartment
at ul. Tyniecka 10 (H-4) - shows the apartment where the
future pope lived with his father in the late 1930s (open
Wed, Sat and Sun only 10:00 - 14:00, free admission).QC5,
ul. Kanonicza 19-21, tel. (+48) 12 421 89 63, www.
muzeumkra.diecezja.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 15:00. Closed Mon. Admission 5/3z, family ticket
12z. Guided tours 60z. YN
BISHOP ERAZM CIOEK PALACE
Reopened after a 2015 renovation, this early 14th century
palace holds three permanent exhibitions: Krakw At
Your Fingertips, Art of Old Poland from the 12th to 18th
Centuries, and Orthodox Art of the Old Polish Republic.
The first is a depository of local architectural sculpture
fragments, while the latter two consist almost entirely
of sacral art from before the idea of art was applied to
non-religious subject matter (how many centuries did
that take?). Most of it came directly out of Krakws
own churches or others in the region, and is admittedly
superb, if thats your thing. If its not, its a bit of a snoozefest.QC5, ul. Kanonicza 17, tel. (+48) 12 433 59 20,
mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 9/5z, family ticket 19z, kids 7-16 and
students under 26 (with valid ID) 1z, kids under 7 free;
Sun free. U
CELESTAT
This rather bonkers branch of the Krakw History Museum,
located in a small park near the bus station, has finally reopened. The permanent exhibit presents the history of
the uniquely Cracovian Fowler Brotherhood - essentially a
male-only cult of hunters and marksmen who wear strange
hats, worship a silver chicken and have their very own king.
In existence since the end of the 13th century, the history
of the Brotherhood and their role in the defence of the
city is laid out courtesy of a series of oil paintings, guns,
teapots, photographs and other relics, while inside the
Sharpshooters Hall youll see the object of their adoration
- a mystical silver chicken from the 16th century. Theres
plenty of fodder for a parody here, and the cock jokes
literally write themselves; well just say that despite being
well-presented, we left wondering why we had visited
sober on a nice day.QE2, ul. Lubicz 16, tel. (+48) 12 429
37 91, www.mhk.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:30; closed Mon,
Sun. Admission 8/6z, family ticket 16z, Tue free. Y
JAGIELLONIAN UNIVERSITY
COLLEGIUM MAIUS
Jagiellonian Universitys oldest building (and one of
the oldest in Krakw), Collegium Maius was built as the
universitys main campus in the late 14th century, 36
years after the universitys founding. A century later it was
redesigned as the late-Gothic structure surrounding the
picturesque arcaded courtyard that has survived to this
day. While professors lived and worked upstairs, it was in
the ground floor lecture halls that Nicolaus Copernicus
made doodles in the margins of his notebooks in the
1490s. Today a museum, visitors can explore the interiors
and exhibits on their own or reserve a place on one of
the daily guided tours for the same price. A full hour-long
tour in English is given Mon-Fri at 13:00 (16/12z), while
more basic 30-minute tours in English depart every 20
minutes (12/6z); it is suggested, however, that you call
or visit in advance to reserve yourself a place on any of
the tours. Inside youll visit the lecture halls, common
rooms, professors quarters, library and treasury, seeing
some fabulous interiors, paintings, furniture, medieval
scientific instruments, rectors maces and other university
memorabilia along the way, as well as the oldest
surviving globe to depict the Americas. There is also a
separate interactive exhibit about mathematics entitled
Everything...is a Number (open 09:00 - 13:30; closed
Sun. Admission 7/5z). Another highlight of visiting is the
courtyard clock, from which wooden historical figures
appear and parade past to music from the mid-16th
century every two hours between 09:00 and 17:00. The
buildings courtyard also houses a gift shop and cafe, and
dont miss the peaceful Professors Garden just next
door (accessible via a beautiful painted passageway).
QB3, ul. Jagielloska 15, tel. (+48) 12 663 13 07,
www.maius.uj.edu.pl. Open 10:00 - 14:20, Tue 10:00
- 15:20. Closed Sun. Admission 12/6z for permanent
exhibit, 16/12z for entire museum. Admission free for
self-guided tours on Tuesdays from 14:00 - 15:20. N
April - May 2016
77
Old Town
FORMER GESTAPO CELLS
Consisting of two separate exhibits, Ulica Pomorska

offers the most chilling museum experience in Krakw
(which is saying something). Located in the Dom lski,
or Silesian House, this infamous building became the
Krakw headquarters of the Gestapo during WWII,
who converted its cellars into detention cells for the
interrogation and torture of political prisoners. These
cells have been preserved and are free and open to
the public as the Former Gestapo Cells - immediately
to your right as you enter the courtyard. Though the
attendant will encourage you to enter straight away, we
recommend you begin with the buildings main exhibit
People of Krakow in Times of Terror 1939-1945-1956,
entered via a staircase in the corner of the courtyard.
This ambitious and excellent exhibit takes visitors
chronologically through the citys not-so-distant past,
illustrating the terror and tyranny of both the Nazi and
Stalinist regimes in Krakw through an abundance of
documents, photographs, audio recordings and other
archival materials. From the first victims executed by
the Nazis to the communist show trials of the mid50s, the stories of individual citizens and their varying
experiences and reactions to both regimes is revealed
in vivid and sometimes distressing detail.
While the broad, more traditional museum presentation
of this history is affecting enough, the immediacy of
the Gestapo cells is truly haunting. An unimaginable
600 inscriptions scratched into the walls by prisoners
awaiting their fate remain intact and provide a shocking,
sobering and undeniable account of the suffering of
hundreds of Cracovians during Nazi occupation. As you
might expect, there are no fairy-tale endings here, so
prepare yourself for the blunt force trauma of human
tragedy. A worthwhile and memorable experience,
reserve at least 90 minutes for visiting. Ulica Pomorska
is a 20min walk from the market square, near the tram
stop Plac Inwalidw.QH1, ul. Pomorska 2, tel. (+48)
12 633 14 14, www.mhk.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:30.
Closed Mon. Last entrance 30 minutes before
closing. Admission 7/5z, family ticket 14z, Tue free.
Admission to Former Gestapo Cells is free. Y
CITY DEFENSIVE WALLS (MURY OBRONNE)

This small, seasonal museum is in turns uninformative and
overly informative, but basically it gives you a chance to
climb around whats left of Krakws 13th century defensive
walls. Intended as the first leg of a combined visit with the
nearby Barbican, youll pass a few silly mannequins, watch
a strange video, and have some great photo opportunities
over Floriaska Street, while walking the short length of
wall between Krakws three surviving defensive towers,
learning about the 40-odd others demolished by the
Austrians in the 18th century.QD2, ul. Pijarska, tel. (+48)
12 421 13 61, www.mhk.pl. Open from April 8th, 10:30
- 18:00; closed 2nd Monday of each month. Admission
8/6z, family ticket 16z. Ticket includes admission to the
Barbican. YN
EUROPEUM CENTRE FOR EUROPEAN CULTURE
Located in a 17th century granary on formerly-forgotten
Sikorski Square, this branch of the National Museum was
opened in 2013 and houses the citys large collection of
European painting and sculpture, in addition to hosting
lectures, concerts and other events. Displaying Lorenzo
Lottos 1507 The Adoration of the Infant Jesus - the
consensus most-valuable foreign work in the possession of
Krakws National Museum, other highlights include John
the Baptist Preaching by Pieter Brueghel the Younger,
The Crucifixion by Paolo Veneziano, and more early
Renaissance Italian paintings. While were happy to see this
collection find a permanent home, those who have seen
their share of European art museums can probably justify
skipping it.QA3, Pl. Sikorskiego 6, tel. (+48) 12 433 57
60, mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 9/5z; family ticket 19z, kids 7-16 and
Sunday free. Y
HIPOLIT HOUSE
The Hipolits were a merchant family who lived in this
fine building around the end of the 16th and beginning
of the 17th centuries, though the building dates back
considerably further than that. The inside has been
transformed into a series of recreations of typical Polish
bourgeois living spaces from the 17th to early 20th century,
and is interesting for the insights it gives into how the
other half lived as well as being a showcase for some truly
remarkable furniture and antiques. Worth a visit.QC3, Pl.
Mariacki 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 42 19, www.mhk.pl. Open
10:00 - 17:30. Closed Mon, Tue. Last entrance 30 minutes
before closing. Admission 9/7z, family ticket 18z. Wed
free. YN
HISTORY MUSEUM
Established in 1899, Krakws History Museum - also known
as Krzystofory Palace - has been undergoing an extensive
transformation over the last several years, including the
renovation of the 17th century Baroque building that
houses it, the complete digitisation of the museum
collection, and the preparation of a new ambitious
permanent exhibit. The first part of the future permanent
Old Town
exhibit, titled Cyberteka. Krakw - Time & Space, is now
open and chronicles the spatial and urban development of
the city from its earliest beginnings until about 1915, via
spiffy multimedia displays and 3D films. Krzystofory Palace
is also home to a large museum shop with lots of souvenirs,
posters, books and other information available.QC3,
Rynek Gwny 35, tel. (+48) 12 619 23 35, www.mhk.
family ticket 24z. Y
HOME ARMY MUSEUM
This beautifully restored 3-floor red-brick railway building
has been adapted (including a gorgeous glass atrium)
to house the Home Army Museum - documenting the
size, organisation and efforts of Polands underground
military resistance from the time of the failed September
campaign of 1939 to the underground armed forces official
disbanding in 1945. The Home Armys continuing fight for
freedom within the countrys two occupied zones (Nazi
and Soviet) is one of World War IIs less acknowledged
aspects, and though this enormous museum goes to great
length to demonstrate that Polands government, military
and civilian population never surrendered, the sprawling
exhibits are confusing and chaotically organised; as a result
you may want to dish out the 100z (plus ticket price) for a
guided tour. Nevertheless its a must for those interested
in WWII history, and you should reserve at least two hours
for visiting.QJ1, ul. Wita Stwosza 12, tel. (+48) 12 410
07 70, www.muzeum-ak.pl. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Closed
Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission
11/6z. Sun free for permanent exhibit. YU
THE PLANTY
Once the site of the citys 13th century defensive

fortifications, the moats were filled, the walls razed and
the towers demolished - with the notable exceptions of
the grand Floriaska Gate and impenetrable Barbican during Austrian occupation in the first half of the 19th
century. While today its easy to regret the short-sighted
destruction of Krakws medieval city walls, we can
thank the Austrians for replacing them with this lovely
strollway of greenery encircling the centre of the Old
Town. Known as the lungs of the city, the Planty is one
of Krakws most unique and charming features - three
kilometres of public parks and gardens filled with trees,
flowers, benches and historic monuments. Walking its
circuit would take over an hour, but represents a great
way to see the city. A popular place for street musicians
to perform, drunks to drink (note that drinking in public
will win you a fine from the police) and teenage couples
to make out, if you havent smooched someone on a
park bench in the Planty before leaving town, well then
you havent finished your itinerary.QC4/5.
POLISH AVIATION MUSEUM

City Essentials App
HUTTEN-CZAPSKI MUSEUM
Located in a 19th century neo-Renaissance palace in the
very centre of Krakw, this branch of the Krakw National
Museum houses a comprehensive collection of Polish
numismatics - that is, antique Polish coins, banknotes and
medals. The collection of Emeryk Hutten-Czapski, who once
owned the place, also includes old books, manuscripts,
maps and other national memorabilia from the medieval
period to today. As weve come to expect, the displays are
gorgeous and additional info (in Polish and English) about
each artefact is conveyed via touchscreen computers. The
palace and gardens themselves have been stunningly
restored (and are guarded by a fantastic gargoyle out front),
but nonetheless this one should probably be reserved for
die hard Polish patriots with a fascination for coin collecting.
Is that you?QA3, ul. Pisudskiego 12, tel. (+48) 12 433 58
Mon. Admission 9/5z, family ticket 19z, kids 7-16 and
Sunday free for permanent exhibitions. Y
JAN MATEJKO HOUSE
Located on one of the oldest military airfields in Europe,

this oft-overlooked, but highly regarded museum holds
a premier collection of aircraft, artefacts and exhibits
related not only to Polish, but world aviation history
and heritage. The museum features a new exhibition
building bursting with interactive displays and an
extensive collection of historic aircraft, plus a cinema.
The original exhibits in the airfields numerous hangars
and out-buildings are stuffed with old photographs,
engines, uniforms and plenty more airplanes,
helicopters and gliders, while the yards surrounding
them are literally littered Russian-built fighter jets from
the days of the Warsaw Pact. While many of the displays
are in Polish only, this is still a great outing (Dads love it)
that can take the most of a day to explore thoroughly.
A bit out of the centre, to get there take tram 52 from
Dworzec Gwny (D-2) to Muzeum Lotnictwa.QAl.
Jana Pawa II 39 (Czyyny), tel. (+48) 12 642 87 00,
www.muzeumlotnictwa.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00;
closed Mon. Admission 15/7z, Tue free. YU
April - May 2016
79
Old Town
KRAKW STREET ART
Poland has a long, lauded tradition of graphic art, with

large-scale Polish advertising and poster design known
internationally for their high artistic quality; anyone
who makes the strongly recommended visit to Krakws
Poster Gallery (p.119) will easily discover why. With
such a knack for graphics, it stands to reason that Poles
would have a penchant for street graphics as well. And
they do. In Krakw, as in other cities around PL, street
art is currently going through a tidal wave of popularity,
and in the last few years new street murals have become
a common sight around Krakws city centre. More
restaurants and businesses are turning to street artists to
playfully embellish their public spaces, and city authorities
have even taken the surprising step of sponsoring some
large scale murals around the city centre. In fact, the
emergence of street art as a growing and legitimised
artistic discipline has created an interesting dichotomy in
Krakws urban landscape between both sanctioned and
unsanctioned works of graffiti art and the prolific gang
signs, slurs and football-related graffiti that city paint
crews have targeted in their war on vandalism.
At any rate, those with an interest in street art will have
little trouble tracking it down in Krakw, and were
making it even easier. On the maps in the back of our
print guide weve marked street art locations with a
spray can symbol , so you can literally use them to
give yourself a tour of Krakws urban art. Not only that,
but weve also put it all online with GPS coordinates at
iyp.me/krakowstreetart so that your smartphone
can do the work for you. We encourage you to do just
that, and check out some of Krakws alternative artistic
visions.
Jan Matejko was Polands greatest historical painter

whose work and life is honoured in the house where he
was born, lived and would eventually die in the 1890s.
As well as some witty imaginings of Krakw medieval
life, studies for gargoyles, and collections of Renaissance
furniture and antique guns and ammo, the minutiae of
Matejkos life is preserved, right down to his eyeglasses
in this relatively small museum. A fascinating tribute
to a genuine Polish master, and a man of many parts,
fans of Matejko should definitely visit the 19th Century
Polish Art Gallery where many of his greatest works are
displayed.QD3, ul. Floriaska 41, tel. (+48) 12 433
59 60, mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 9/5z, family ticket 19z, kids
7-16 and students under 26 (with valid ID) 1z, kids
under 7 free; Sunday free for permanent exhibitions.
Y
JZEF MEHOFFER HOUSE
Mehoffer was one of the turn of the 20th centurys
artistic elite, a skilled stained-glass artist collaborating

with Wyspiaski on the interiors of numerous Krakw
churches, as well as his own installations across Galicia.
This, his house, was where the artists of the Moda
Polska (Young Poland) movement often met and is a
delight to visit, filled with elegant furnishings, Art Deco
to impressionist-era art and many sketches, designs
and finished stained glass pieces that attest to his
important artistic legacy. In warmer months you wont
find a more magical place to relax and read a book than
the hidden garden behind the house, presided over by
Meho Cafe - one of the citys best-kept secrets.QA2,
ul. Krupnicza 26, tel. (+48) 12 433 58 80, mnk.pl.
Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 9/5z,
family ticket 19z, kids 7-16 and students under 26
(with valid ID) 1z, kids under 7 free; Sunday free.
Y
MANGGHA
Old Town
The Manggha Museum of Japanese Art & Technology has
many hats - including performance hall, Japanese cultural
centre, sushi bar and home to local legend Feliks Jasieskis
fabulous 6,500-piece collection of Japanese artefacts.
Located on the Wisa riverbanks across from Wawel, the
original exceedingly modern building was funded by
legendary Polish film director Andrzej Wajda upon winning
the Kyoto city prize in 1987; July 2015 saw the opening of
the adjacent European - Far East Gallery, which has doubled
the space for temporary exhibits, several of which are on at
any given time (check their website for specifics).QB6, ul.
Konopnickiej 26, tel. (+48) 12 267 27 03, www.manggha.
family ticket 35z, children age 7-16 1z (does not apply
to groups), group ticket 100z (up to 30 people), Tue free.
Guided tours 100z.
NATIONAL MUSEUM, MAIN BUILDING
Far from being the shoeless peasants many cynical
historians would have us believe, previous generations of
Poles have in fact excelled in the arts, and the National
Museum of Art in Krakw showcases many superb
examples of their work. As well as a number of worldclass temporary shows (for which separate tickets are
required, admission varies), the museum also houses
fine collections of Polish applied arts (closed April 5-22)
and weaponry, and its entire top floor is devoted to
the permanent 20th-century Polish Art exhibition - a
truly awesome collection showcasing the works of such
visionaries as Kantor, Witkacy and Wyspiaski (whose epic
monument stands outside the entrance) that any gallery
would be proud to own. Aside from perhaps Wawel, this
is the largest museum in Krakw, so youd be wise to focus
on what youre most interested in; to see it all would take
the entire day. The museum also houses a small shop
and caf.QH3, Al. 3 Maja 1, tel. (+48) 12 433 55 00,
mnk.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed
Mon. Admission for permanent exhibits 11/6z, family
ticket 20z, kids 7-16 and students under 26 (with
valid ID) 1z, kids under 7 free; Sun free. Admission for
temporary exhibits, and joint admission for permanent
and temporary exhibits, varies depending on the
exhibit. Y
PHARMACY MUSEUM
Located inside a wonderful 15th-century building, Krakws
brilliant Pharmacy Museum is laid out over five floors and
includes all manner of exhibits from full-scale reproductions
of ancient apothecary shops to some beastly snakes in jars
and, on the top floor, a really good display of traditional
herbal medicines. Also of note is an exhibit dedicated to
the extraordinary and brave Pole, Tadeusz Pankiewicz, who
operated a pharmacy in the Krakw Ghetto during WWII.
Overall, this surprising museum is a lot more interesting
than it sounds.QC2, ul. Floriaska 25, tel. (+48) 12 421
92 79, www.muzeumfarmacji.pl. Open 10:00 - 14:30,
Tue 12:00 - 18:30. Closed Mon. Last entrance 45 minutes
before closing. Admission 9/6z. N
RYNEK UNDERGROUND
April - May 2016
81
Old Town
KOCIUSZKO MOUND
History produces few men like Tadeusz Kociuszko

(1746-1817). Having fought with distinction in the
American War of Independence before inspiring a
valiant Insurrection against foreign rule in Poland, this
relentless freedom-fighter was described by Thomas
Jefferson as the purest son of liberty that I have ever
known. Upon his passing, such was the peoples love
that they proposed to honour him with a monument
in the tradition of the prehistoric mounds of King Krak
(p.96) and Wanda (p.103) - and to make it the grandest
in Krakw. Construction of an artificial burial mound
atop Bronisawa Hill in Zwierzyniec began with a mass,
followed by speeches; artefacts from Kociuszkos
illustrious life were placed, including soil from his many
battlefields, before friends, statesmen and foreign
dignitaries dumped the first wheelbarrows of dirt. For
the next three years people of all ages brought soil
from their villages to add to the mound. Though a
committee was formed for its oversight, the work was
all done voluntarily. Officially completed in November
1823, Kociuszko Mound stands 34m high, 326m above
sea level, and on a clear day the Tatra Mountains can be
seen from the top.
In the 1850s the occupying Austrian military authorities
built a brick fortress around the Mound, which they
used as a strategic lookout point. The Germans later
threatened to level the entire site during WWII as they
set about destroying all Polish national symbols (along
with 3 million Polish Jews). Though parts of the fortress
were destroyed, the complex has been restored and
significant engineering improvements have been
made to ensure its longevity. Climbing to the peak is
tiring work, but the panoramic views are a worthwhile
reward. The surrounding fortifications also house two
cafes, a radio station, chapel, restaurant, wax museum
and five additional historical exhibitions. Admission to all
exhibits is included with admission to the Mound.
To get there take trams 1, 2 or 6 to Salwator, from which
its a lovely 1.6km walk up ul. w Bronisawa. The walk is
all uphill though, so if youre awaiting a hip replacement
you might want to take bus 100 from there to the top
instead. Or a cab from the Old Town is about 30z.QF3,
Al. Waszyngtona 1, tel. (+48) 12 425 11 16, www.
kopieckosciuszki.pl. Mound open 09:00 until dusk.
Exhibits open 09:30 - 17:30; from May open 09:30 18:30. Admission 12/10z, family ticket 30-40z. N
This hi-tech and highly popular museum takes visitors

four metres under the surface of the market square to
explore the recently excavated medieval merchant stalls
that predate todays Cloth Hall, and to experience the
citys entire history - from its first settlers right up today
over the course of some 6,000 metres of multimedia
exhibits. Because of the museums popularity, and the
fact that it is limited to only 300 people at a time, timed
tickets should be bought in advance to avoid long
queues or the disappointment of no ticket availability. This
can be done either online or from the information office
confusingly located on the opposite side of the Cloth Hall
from the museum entrance. The actual museum entrance
is located on the side opposite St. Marys Basilica, of
course, and once youve negotiated the scrum of getting
inside your experience begins with a short film projected
on a wall of smoke, before following the trail of truly
remarkable exhibits displayed in what is essentially an
archaeological site. Relying heavily on touch-screens and
holograms, highlights include a fascinating look into life
before Krakw received its charter and the market square
was laid out, displays on trade and transport in the city,
a fantastic area for kids that includes a performance by
automated puppets, and the remains of an 11th-century
cemetery replete with vampire prevention burials
(seriously). Visitors should also reserve time to view
the excellent series of short, subtitled documentaries
covering different ages of Krakows history at the end of
the tour route. In addition to the multilingual displays,
audio guides are available in English, German, French,
Russian, Italian and Spanish.QC3, Rynek Gwny 1,
tel. (+48) 12 426 50 60, www.mhk.pl. Open 10:00
- 22:00, Mon 10:00 - 20:00, Tue 10:00 - 16:00. Closed
April 11-13 and May 9. Last entrance 75 minutes before
closing. Admission 19/16z, family ticket 38 z, Tue free.
Audioguide 5z. Y
STAINED GLASS MUSEUM
Located in the premises of S.G. eleskis historic
stained glass studio, this living museum offers the truly
unique opportunity of visiting an active stained glass
workshop, where youll witness masters at work, learn
the artistic process involved in producing large-scale
glass installations, and see some superb designs and
examples of finished works from throughout the over
hundred-year history of the studio. Known as the cradle
of Polish stained glass art, eleski opened this studio in
1902 as a place for the best artists of the Moda Polska/
Art Nouveau era to meet and work, including such
luminaries as Wyspiaski, Mehoffer and Stefan Matejko
(nephew of Jan). Many of PLs most outstanding examples
of stained glass were created here, and today the studio
remains the largest of its kind in the country. Visiting is
only possible with a guide and the approximately 45-min
tour is offered hourly in Polish (at :30 past the hour) and
English (on the hour); stained glass workshops can also
be arranged (in Polish, English, French, Italian or German;
minimum 2 people). The museum now also includes
a cafe and gift shop where you can pick up beautiful
Old Town
stained glass pieces created on-site in the workshop.
Though more expensive than other museums, a visit is
absolutely worth it for fans of the medium, as well as
Art Nouveau enthusiasts.QH3, Al. Krasiskiego 23,
tel. (+48) 512 93 79 79, stainedglass.pl. Open 12:00
- 18:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Guided tours 32/24z per
person in English; 25/18z in Polish. N
SZOAYSKI HOUSE
This well-located branch of the National Museum offers
several temporary exhibits at any given time. Presently,
on the ground floor is a small free exhibit that honours
Krakws Grand Dame of poetry Wisawa Szymborska by
displaying articles collected from her apartment after her
passing in 2012. At the moment, youll also find From
Japan to Europe. Beautiful and Convenient Things
(12/9z, family ticket 20z, Sun free) upstairs. The Tribecca
cafe on the ground floor is also a great place to recharge
the batteries, and the museum shop offers an array of
artbooks.QB2, Pl. Szczepaski 9, tel. (+48) 12 433 54
Mon. YU
TOWN HALL TOWER
After many fires, renovations and uncaring demolitions, the
only element of the 14th century Town Hall remaining is
this 70m-high tower, proudly standing next to the Cloth
Hall. As a museum, it offers little aside from some medieval
costumes, black and white photos, information about the
clock at its top, decent views, and lots of stairs. With the
balconies off limits, you can take some so-so snaps by
leaning out the open windows, but they arent the calendar
quality panoramas you might be anticipating. Overall
wed say a visit here is over-priced, underwhelming, and
completely skippable.QC3, Rynek Gwny 1, tel. (+48)
12 426 43 34, www.mhk.pl. Open 10:30 - 18:00. Last
entrance 30mins before closing. Admission 9/7z, family
ticket 18z. YN
KRAKW
NATIONAL MUSEUM
Visitors should note that all
branches of the National
Museum are free on
Sundays, and students
under 26 (with proper ID)
pay only 1z all other days.
Also, ambitious tourists
can buy one ticket that is
valid for all branches for
six months for only 35/28z; thats a heck of a deal and
includes the 19th Century Polish Art Gallery, Bishop Erazm
Cioek Palace, Europeum, Hutten-Czapski Museum,
Jan Matejko House, Jzef Mehoffer House, the National
Museum - Main Building, and the Szoayski House.
RED IS BAD - ODZIE PATRIOTYCZNA

TOP-QUALITY SOUVENIR CLOTHING
WITH POLISH SYMBOLS
SZEWSKA 25, KRAKW
PON. - SOB. - 1100 - 1900
ND. - 1000 - 1500
April - May 2016
83
Wawel
Photo by Wojciech Gorgolewski
The glorious ensemble that is Wawel, perched on top

of the hill of the same name immediately south of the
Old Town (B-5), is by far the most important collection
of buildings in Poland. A symbol of national pride, hope,
self-rule and not least of all fierce patriotism, Wawel offers
a uniquely Polish version of the British Buckingham Palace
and Westminster Abbey rolled into one. A gorgeous
assortment of predominantly Romanesque, Renaissance
and Gothic architecture dating from around the 14th
century onwards, Wawel is the crown jewel of Krakws
architectural treasures and required visiting for Poles and
foreigners alike.
Even for those who know or care little about the
countrys past, Polands ancient seat of royalty contains
a vast wealth of treasures inside its heavily fortified
walls that cant fail to inspire. Made up of the Castle
and the Cathedral, of which the former contains most,
but by no means all of the exhibitions, Wawels mustsee highlights include the Cathedrals mind-boggling
interior, a tantalising glimpse of Polands very own
crown jewels inside the Crown Treasury and, weather
permitting, a leisurely stroll around its courtyards and
gardens. After the April 2010 Smolensk disaster, Wawels
Royal Crypts became the final resting place of President
Lech Kaczyski and his wife Maria; their tombs are open
to the public free of charge. A full tour of Wawel, which
is hard work but comes with its own rewards, can take
an entire day.
CASTLE
Wawels prominence as a centre of political power predates the
building of the first Cathedral on the site in 1000AD. Evidence
shows that Wawel Hill was being used as a fortified castle
before Polands first ruler, Mieszko I (circa 962-992) chose Wawel
as one of his official residences. The first Polish king crowned in
Wawel Cathedral was the teenage Wadysaw the Short (13061333) on January 20, 1319, beginning a tradition that would
see a further 35 royal rulers crowned there up until the 17th
century. All of these rulers used the Castle as a residence, and all
of them added their own architectural details to the building.
The moving of the capital to Warsaw in 1596 and Polands
subsequent decline and partitioning saw the Royal Castle fall
into a state of disrepair. The occupying Austrians used it as a
military hospital and even went so far as to demolish several
buildings including a number of churches on the site. The 20th
century saw the Castle change hands on a number of occasions,
with the huge ongoing renovation works that continue to
this day being halted for a number of reasons, most famously
when the Castle was used as the headquarters of the Nazi
Governor General, Hans Frank, during the German occupation
of WWII. Todays Castle complex is a beguiling muddle of styles
including Medieval, Romanesque, Renaissance, Gothic and
Baroque. The inner courtyard with its delightful colonnades is
a true architectural masterpiece, and the treasures contained
within do much to contribute to Krakws rightful status as a
truly world-class city.QB5, Wawel Hill, tel. (+48) 22 422 51
55 ext.219, www.wawel.krakow.pl.
Wawel
CROWN TREASURY & ARMOURY
Containing Polands very own equivalent of the Crown
Jewels among its many wonders, the Crown Treasury &
Armoury provides a delightful excursion into the world of
the sumptuous, extravagant and brutally violent. To the left,
the Crown Treasury features several glass cases of golden
and bejewelled goblets, platters, coins and other marvels,
of which Szczerbiec - the countrys original coronation
sword - is the ultimate highlight. To the right the Armoury
contains a wealth of weaponry including some exceedingly
swanky crossbows and a frightening array of spiky pikes,
while the cellar holds a collection of cannons and replicas
of the banners captured at the Battle of Grunwald.QOpen
09:30 - 17:00, Mon 09:30 - 13:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 18/11z,
Mon free but ticket still required; check ticket office for
availability.
LOST WAWEL
This smartly conceived and executed exhibit presents
the remaining fragments of medieval Wawel, including
remnants of the Rotunda of the Virgin Mary (Krakws first
church). A computer generated model of Wawel gives
visitors a peek into the early 10th century construction.
QOpen 09:30 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 17:00, Mon 09:30 13:00. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission
10/7z, Mon free but ticket still required; check ticket
office for availability.
ORIENTAL ART
This exhibit in the western wing of the castle comprises art
from the Near East which was highly prized and fashionable
amongst the Polish nobility as it entered the kingdom via
military and trade contact with Turkey, Iran, the Caucasus
and Crimea. Visitors will see unique collections of Chinese
ceramic and Japanese porcelain, but the part of the exhibit
that makes it essential are the trophies, banners, weapons
and other artefacts captured during King Jan Sobieski IIIs
famous victory over the Turkish army at Vienna in 1683,
including Ottoman commander Kara Mustapha Paras
sabre.QOpen 09:30 - 17:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 8/5z.
The renaissance courtyard at Wawel
The Senators Hall
Photo by Anna Stankiewicz
STATE ROOMS & ROYAL PRIVATE APARTMENTS

Two collections in one, of which the latter is only accessible
on a specially conducted guided tour, these are the rooms
in which the royals once lived and did their entertaining.
The spectacular State Rooms seemingly go on forever
(reserve about 40mins for visiting), and are full of luscious
oil paintings, intricate 16th-century Flemish tapestries,
some truly extraordinary wallpaper and the breathtaking
Bird Room. Highlights include the eerie Deputies Hall,
complete with 30 wooden representations of former
Krakw residents heads on the coffered ceiling and an
original throne that really brings the majesty of Polands
past to life. The Royal Private Apartments, meanwhile,
are equally stunning. Packed with delightful Gothic and
Renaissance details, your 40-60min guided tour will include
the wonderful Guest Bedroom, complete with original
Renaissance larch wood ceiling, and the charmingly
named Hens Foot - two small rooms inside the 14thcentury Belvedere Tower, which offer great views.QOpen
09:30 - 17:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon. Last
entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission to State
Rooms 18/11z. Royal Apartments 25/19z.
WAWEL VISITOR CENTRE

Wawel visitor numbers are restricted and tickets are
timed in an attempt to prevent overcrowding. To
guarantee entry as well as avoiding the need to stand
in long queues, call tel. 12 422 16 97 to reserve
tickets for the exhibition you want to see at least one
day before you visit. Tickets should be collected at
the Wawel Visitor Centre Reservation Office at least
30mins before the reserved tour time. All exhibits are
self-guided except for the Royal Apartments, however
foreign language guides can be arranged at extra cost
if done in advance. In addition to ticket sales and pickup, the Visitor Centre is also the place to get more info
about various seasonal and theme tours on offer, pick
up free maps or make use of the small post office, gift
shop, cafe/restaurant and toilets.QB5, Wawel Hill, tel.
(+48) 12 422 51 55 (ext. 219), www.wawel.krakow.
pl. Open 09:00 - 19:00. From May open 09:00 - 20:00.
Photo by Stanisaw Michta
April - May 2016
85
Wawel
LADY WITH AN ERMINE
Krakws prized art piece
is this Leonardo Da Vinci
canvas - one of only three
Da Vinci oil paintings in the
world, and a sentimental
favourite
of
Poles,
reproduced and hung in
many a home. Leonardos
Lady has a chequered
history; when she isnt
entertaining she always
seems to be on the run or in hiding somewhere. For
centuries she was off the map completely, before
having a rendezvous with Prince Adam Czartoryski
during his Italian holiday in 1800. Gentleman that he
was, he brought her home to his native Poland, where
she was part of the family until escaping to Paris in
1830 during the Warsaw Insurrection. The Lady later
returned to Poland in 1876 moving into what would
become her official address in Krakws Czartoryski
Museum, only to be captured by the Nazis and
moved to Berlin. In 1946 the Americans rescued her
and returned her to Krakw where she is today one of
the citys most beloved treasures.
Leonardos Lady will be on display at Wawel until its
proper home in the Czartoryski Museum is reopened
after renovation. Exhibited on its own alongside in
depth information about its complicated history and
authenticity, the priceless painting requires a separate
admission ticket and absolutely shouldnt be missed.
QOpen 09:30 - 17:00; Sun 10:00 - 17:00. Closed
Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission
10/8z.
CATHEDRAL TICKETS
The Cathedral and the Castle have different ticket
offices. Tickets for the Cathedral can be purchased
only in the ticket office directly opposite the Cathedral
entrance. While entrance to the actual cathedral itself
is free you will need a ticket to enter the adjoining
Royal Crypts and Sigismund Bell tower. A single
ticket covers these as well as the Cathedral Museum.
Audioguides are recommended to make the most of
the experience, and can be rented here for 7/5z (in
Polish, English, German, Russian, Italian, Spanish, Czech,
French and Hungarian).QB5, Wawel Hill, tel. (+48)
12 429 95 15, www.katedra-wawelska.pl. Open
09:00 - 16:30, Sun 12:30 - 16:30. Tickets covering
the Cathedral Museum, Royal Crypts and Sigismund
Bell cost 12/7z. Note that the Cathedral Museum is
closed Sun, but your ticket is valid to visit another
day.
Wawel Cathedral in bloom
Photo by Artur Turyna
WAWEL CATHEDRAL
The scene of the crowning of almost every Polish king and
queen throughout history, the current Wawel Cathedral
is the third to be built on the site. The first cathedral
was built of wood, probably around 1020, but certainly
after the founding of the Bishopric of Krakw in 1000AD.
Destroyed by fire it was replaced by a second cathedral
that subsequently burnt down again. The current building
was consecrated in 1364 and built on the orders of
Polands first king to be crowned at Wawel, Wadysaw the
Short (aka. Wadysaw the Elbow-high, 1306-1333), who
was crowned among the charred rubble of its predecessor
in 1319. Considered the most important single building
in Poland, Wawels extraordinary Cathedral contains much
that is original, although many glorious additions have
been made over the centuries. Arguably not as stunning
as that of its cousin St. Marys on the Rynek, the interior
of Wawel Cathedral more than makes up for its visual
shortcomings thanks to the sheer amount of history
packed inside. At its centre is the imposing tomb of the
former Bishop of Krakw, St. Stanisaw (1030-1079), a
suitably grand monument dedicated to the controversial
cleric after whom the Cathedral is dedicated. Boasting 18
chapels, all of them about as ostentatious as youre ever
likely to see, of particular interest is the 15th-century
Chapel of the Holy Cross, found to the right as you enter
and featuring some wonderful Russian murals as well as
Veit Stoss 1492 marble sarcophagus to Kazimierz IV. The
Royal Crypts offer a cold and atmospheric diversion
as the final resting place of kings and statesmen - most
recently former president Lech Kaczyski - while at the
top of a gruelling wooden series of staircases is the vast,
12.6 tonne Sigismund Bell - so loud it can supposedly
be heard 30km away.QB5, Wawel 3, tel. (+48) 12 429
33 27, www.katedra-wawelska.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00,
Sun 12:30 - 17:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before
closing.
Wawel
ROYAL CRYPTS
While all Polands pre-16th kings were buried beneath or
within their hulking sarcophagi still on view in the Cathedral
today, that trend stopped in 1533 when King Sigismund I
had his wife interred in a purpose-built underground vault.
He joined her in 1548 and the crypts were expanded in
the 16th, 17th and 18th centuries to house the remains of
nine more Polish kings, their wives and, in some cases, their
children thereafter. Upon the demise of the monarchy (and
kingdom itself), the honour was extended to statesmen
with Prince Jzef Poniatowski (1817), Tadeusz Kociuszko
(1818), poets Adam Mickiewicz (1890) and Juliusz Sowacki
(1923), Jzef Pisudski (1935) and General Wadysaw Sikorski
(1993) all securing themselves a place here. Most recently in April of 2010 - the late President Lech Kaczyski and his
wife Maria were controversially interred here after the tragedy
in Smolesk; admission to their tomb (and that of Pisudski)
is free. Descend the stairs inside the Cathedral into the
remarkably chilly chambers, beginning with the 11th century
St. Leonards Crypt - the best Romanesque interior in PL; the
exit deposits you back outside.QB5, Wawel 3, tel. (+48) 12
429 33 21, www.katedra-wawelska.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00,
Sun 12:30 - 17:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
CATHEDRAL MUSEUM
Opened in 1978 by Karol Wojtya just before he became Pope
John Paul II, the fabulous Cathedral Museum features a wealth
of religious and secular items dating from the 13th century
onwards, all related to the ups and downs of the Cathedral
next door. Among its most valuable possessions is the sword
deliberately snapped into three pieces at the funeral of the
Calvinist king, Zygmunt August (1548-1572) - the last of the
Jagiellonian dynasty, as well as all manner of coronation robes
and royal insignias to boot.QB5, Wawel 2, tel. (+48) 12 429
33 21, www.katedra-wawelska.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
SIGISMUND BELL
Follow the crowds up many gruelling flights of stairs to
reach the infamous Sigismund Bell - a resounding symbol
of Polish nationalism ala Philadelphias Liberty Bell. The
largest of five bells hanging in the same tower, Sigismunds
Bell weighs in at an astounding 12.6 total tonnes (9650 kgs
just for the bell itself ), measures 241cm in height, 242cm
in diametre and varies from 7 to 21cm thick. The bronze
beauty was cast in 1520 on the orders of King Sigismund I
and is adorned in reliefs of St. Stanislav and St. Sigismund
as well as the coat of arms of Poland and Lithuania. Rung
to this day on religious and national holidays, as well as
significant moments in history (like the funeral of late
President Lech Kaczyski and his wife) the bells peal can
be heard 30km (186 miles) away and is quite an enterprise
to ring, requiring twelve bell-tollers who are actually lifted
from the ground by the bells force. The entrance is within
the Cathedral and tickets (good for the Royal Crypts as well)
are purchased at the ticket office across from the Cathedral
entrance.QB5, Wawel 3, tel. (+48) 12 429 33 21, www.
katedra-wawelska.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:30 17:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
THE WAWEL DRAGON
Standing on the Wisa riverbank in the shade of Wawel

Castle (B-6) is a rather ugly likeness of the Wawel
Dragon (Smok Wawelski), who - according to local
legend - once reposed in the large cave behind him
when not out and about in town scarfing up virgins
and sheep. Finally vanquished when he was tricked
into eating a bag of sulphur, this monument in his
honour was unveiled in 1972 to a design by the local
artist Bronisaw Chromy. Extremely popular with the
kids youll find climbing all over it, the monument
actually breathes fire at random intervals about every
5-10mins. To witness this spectacle, just be patient and
dont look down his throat.
Outside the entrance of Wawel Cathedral (B-5), you
may also notice an odd collection of massive bones
chained up on the left outside the entrance. While
legend obviously purports these to be the bones of
Wawels fearsome dragon, more conventional wisdom
has claimed they might be parts belonging to a blue
whale, woolly mammoth, rhinoceros, or all three. At
any rate, they havent been removed and inspected
for centuries due to their magical properties, which
are credited with protecting the city from destruction
during centuries of Polish partition and particularly
during WWII when almost every other major city in
Poland got pancaked.
April - May 2016
87
Kazimierz
Plac Nowy - the heart of the former Jewish district (page 92).
USEFUL CONTACTS
JEWISH COMMUNITY
The Jewish Community of Krakw is over 700 years old
and currently has around 140 members tasked with
maintaining Krakws Jewish culture, religious sites, and
organising community events and gatherings. Shabbat
services currently take place every Friday in Kupa
Synagogue (ul. Warszauera 8, D/E-6); however, after the
completion of renovations at the Remuh Synagogue
(expected sometime in Feb-March), services will begin
taking place there (ul. Szeroka 40, E-6).QD6, ul.
Miodowa 27, tel. (+48) 12 429 57 35, www.krakow.
jewish.org.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
JEWISH COMMUNITY CENTRE
The headquarters of Krakws strengthening Jewish
community. JCC organises numerous events (check
their website or FB for details), exhibits and tours. Walkins are always welcome, but if you want to participate
in a Shabbat dinner you need to contact them a few
days in advance.QD6, ul. Miodowa 24, tel. (+48) 12
370 57 70, www.jcckrakow.org. Open 10:00 - 20:30,
Fri 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat.
JUDAICA FOUNDATION
This civic and cultural centre hosts lectures and exhibits
reflecting Jewish life past and present, and includes a cafe.
QD6, ul. Meiselsa 17, tel. (+48) 12 430 64 49, www.
judaica.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
Kazimierz - the district south of the Old Town between the

Wisa River and ul. Dietla (where a tributary of the Wisa
once flowed) - was the centre of Jewish life in Krakw for
over 500 years, before it was systematically destroyed
during World War II. Neglected during the communist
era, Kazimierz became one of Krakws dodgiest districts
before its rediscovery in the 1990s, thanks to the fall of the
regime and worldwide exposure through the lens of Steven
Spielberg. Kazimierz has since been on the rebound and is
today arguably Krakws most exciting district - a bustling,
bohemian neighbourhood packed with historical sites,
atmospheric cafes and art galleries. Traces of Kazimierzs
Jewish history have not only survived, but literally abound in
the form of numerous synagogues and Jewish cemeteries.
In fact, no other place in Europe conveys a sense of pre-war
Jewish culture better than Kazimierz. As a result, the district
has become a major tourist draw and could almost be
considered a pilgrimage site for Jews, which has led to the
return of contemporary Jewish culture to the area in recent
decades. Each summer since 1988 the massively popular
Jewish Culture Festival fills Kazimierzs streets and cafes with
music, while educating Krakws residents and guests about
the citys pre-war Jewish history and celebrating modern
Jewish culture. The fact that its one of the years biggest
parties proves that theres more to Kazimierz than sepia
photographs and old synagogues. Here youll find the heart
of Krakows artistic, bohemian character behind the wooden
shutters of dozens of antique shops and art galleries, and
in the obscure courtyard cafes and shadowy bars centered
around the former Jewish square known today as Plac
Nowy. Alternative, edgy and packed with oddities, Kazimierz
is an essential point of interest to any visitor.
Kazimierz
WHAT TO SEE
Intimate and perfectly walkable, to get a feel for the area
start your tour of Kazimierz at the top of ulica Szeroka,
coming from ulica Miodowa (E-6). More a square than
an actual street, Szeroka conveys the sense of a medieval
marketplace; indeed it was here that Kazimierzs first
Jewish merchants settled, and the square is bookended
by two of the citys most important synagogues - the Old
Synagogue and the Remuh Synagogue (p.93), whose
historic cemetery extends to ul. Miodowa and ul. Jakuba.
Ul. Szeroka 6 (now the Klezmer Hois hotel and restaurant,
p.44) formerly housed the Great Mikvah, a ritual bathhouse
that gained notoriety in 1567 when the wooden floor
collapsed and ten women drowned. Nearby beneath a
ring of maples at the streets northern end is a memorial
and Place of meditation upon the martyrdom of 65,000
Polish citizens of Jewish nationality from Cracow. Today
ul. Szerokas picturesque cobbled lanes are primarily lined
with businesses and restaurants tastefully aimed at tourists
like Rubinstein (ul. Szeroka 14) - so named because the
Queen of Cosmetics was born next door at number 14,
and Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu (Once Upon a Time in
Kazimierz, ul. Szeroka 1, p.42), with its row of faux Jewish
shop fronts; next door youll find Jarden (ul. Szeroka 2), the
areas first Jewish bookstore.
Taking a right onto ulica Jzefa just past the Old
Synagogue, youll find the High Synagogue (p.92) at
number 38, so called because the prayer room was located
on the first floor. Today it houses the Austeria bookshop
(p.120) and a small exhibition space with rotating historical
exhibits about the history of Polands Jewish population.
Along this block of ul. Jzefa you can easily spot
indentations left by mezuzahs, and a Hebrew inscription
on the building next door to the High Synagogue. Make
a right onto ul. Kupa (literally Poop Street in English, at
least thats the PG version) to visit the Isaac Synagogue
(ul. Kupa 18, E-6, p.92), whose restored interiors now house
a permanent exhibition titled In Memory of Polish Jews
and a small shop selling kosher food. In 1939 a member of
the synagogue committee was executed inside these halls
after refusing to set fire to it.
Temple Synagogue
recognisable to many as the backdrop of dramatic scenes

from Spielbergs Schindlers List. Along the way youll pass
the Judaica Foundation (p.88) at ul. Meiselsa 17 and
arguably Krakws best beer garden (Mleczarnia, p.64) if
youre here during the warm season.
While on your Jewish culture crawl of Kazimierz do also put
aside time to visit the Temple Synagogue (ul. Miodowa
24, D-6, p.93), Galicia Jewish Museum (ul. Dajwr 18, E-6,
p.91) and New Jewish Cemetery (ul. Miodowa 55, E-6,
p.93) - all of which are nearby and essential points of interest.
Kazimierz is not exclusively Jewish, however, with several
noteworthy Catholic churches moored in the district. The
most noteworthy is Skaka (ul. Skaeczna, C-7, p.90), where
Stanisaw, the Bishop of Szczepanw, was murdered and
then quartered at the whim of King Bolesaw the Bold; a
blood-splattered stone can allegedly be seen beside the
altar. Stanisaw went on in death to become the patron
saint of Poland, and Skaka is also the final resting place
of local heroes Czesaw Miosz and Stanisaw Wyspiaski.
Kazimierz is also home to some of Krakws most popular
museums; both the City Engineering Museum (ul. w.
Wawrzyca 15, E-7) and Ethnographic Museum (Plac
Wolnica 1, D-7) are good choices for taking the kids and
keeping them entertained (p.91).
At the end of ul. Kupa at ul. Warszauera 8 (D-6) is the 17th

century Kupa Synagogue (p.92), whose northern wall was
flush with the medieval Kazimierz defensive walls, which
can still be seen from the ul. Miodowa side. Its there at
Miodowa 27 that youll find the entrance, and today the
restored synagogue is regularly used for religious services
by the Jewish Community.
A short walk down ul. Warszauera leads you to Plac Nowy
(D-6, p.92), formerly known as Plac ydowski (Jewish
Square) and still today the districts bustling epicentre, lined
with bars, cafes and street food stalls. To continue your tour
head west out of the square down ul. Meiselsa (D-6) to
find what many regard as Krakws most picturesque
passageway on your left, which should be immediately
Szeroka Street
Ana Paula Hirama
April - May 2016
89
Kazimierz
HISTORY
The history of Kazimierz can be traced back to 1335
when it was officially founded on an island outside
of Krakw by King Kazimierz the Great. It was not
until 1495 when Jews began to be expelled from
Krakw that they started to move over the river to
Kazimierz en masse. Awarded its Magdeburg Rights,
which allowed markets to be held on what is now
Pl. Wolnica (p.91), Kazimierz prospered and became
one of the most influential Polish towns during the
Middle Ages. By the 17th century Jewish life was
flourishing and numerous synagogues had been
constructed when the plague hit in 1651. Four years
later Kazimierz was ransacked by Swedish invaders,
famine, floods and anti-Jewish riots followed in quick
succession, and a mass migration to Warsaw began,
leaving the once vibrant Kazimierz a shadow of its
former self.
In 1796 Krakw came under Austrian control, and
four years later Kazimierz was incorporated into its
neighbouring city. Ironically this would bring about
the areas rebirth as the Austrians worked hard to
redevelop the city: the streets were cobbled, the
crumbling defensive walls were torn down, the first
gas lamps were illuminated in 1857, and the suburb
had a power station by 1905. The governing Austrians
also ordered all of Krakws Jews to resettle in
Kazimierz, and a rich cultural life arose around them;
by 1910 the Jewish population stood at 32,000, a
figure that was to nearly double during the inter-war
years. This, as we know, would come to a dramatic
end with the Nazi occupation of Krakw and Hitlers
systematic extermination of the Jews of Europe.
Herded across the river to a ghetto in Podgrze
(p.98), Krakws Jews met their end there, in Paszw,
or Beec (primarily). A mere 3-5,000 survived the
Holocaust, a large proportion of them saved by Oskar
Schindler.
Although 5,000 Jews were registered as living in
Krakw in 1950 any hopes of rekindling the past soon
vanished. The anti-Zionist policies of the post-war
communist authorities sparked waves of emigration
to Israel, and by the 1970s signs of Jewish life had all
but disappeared and the area had become a bandit
suburb. The fall of communism in 1989 sparked new
hope, however; investment began trickling in, 1988
saw the first Jewish Festival take place, and five years
later the Judaica Foundation (p.88) was opened. That
was also the year Spielberg arrived to film Schindlers
List, a film that would put Kazimierz on the world map
and irrevocably change its fortunes. Today a visit to
Kazimierz ranks just as high on itineraries as a trip to
Wawel, illustrating the historical importance and public
regard the area possesses.
CHURCHES
CORPUS CHRISTI CHURCH
This massive brick beauty from the 14th century takes up

two entire blocks in Kazimierz, making it one of the citys
largest holy sites. A three-naver in the Gothic style, the
pulpit features a golden boat (with oars and a mast even)
being held aloft by two mermaids. And though there are
few things we like more than mermaids, the crowning
glory has to be the towering golden altarpiece. According
to legend, a robber who had stolen a precious relic from
another church repented on this spot, abandoning
the reliquary. The priests in pursuit saw a strange light
emanating from the ground and discovering their sacred
prize, founded a church here in recognition of the miracle.
QD/E6/7, ul. Boego Ciaa 26, www.bozecialo.net.
Open 09:00 - 12:00, 13:00 - 19:00. No visiting during
mass please.
SKAKA & THE PAULINE MONASTERY
This gorgeous riverside sanctuary is one of the most

important religious sites in Krakw, with a fair share of
history. In 1079, King Bolesaw the Bold accused the bishop
of Krakw, Stanisaw Szczepaski, of treason. According to
legend, the bishop was beheaded with the sword seen
next to the altar and then his body was chopped into
pieces on a tree stump. After the murder, the royal family
fell under a curse. To appease the spirit of the wronged
bishop, the family built this church and made regular
pilgrimages here to atone for the murder. Szczepaski was
canonised in 1253. The Skaka crypt is packed tight with
important Poles including composer Karol Szymanowski,
writer Czesaw Miosz and painters Stanisaw Wyspiaski
and Jacek Malczewski.QC7, West end of ul. Skaeczna,
tel. (+48) 12 421 72 44, www.skalka.paulini.pl. Open
09:00 - 16:00, Sun 13:00 - 17:00. No visiting during mass
please.
Kazimierz
MUSEUMS
CITY ENGINEERING MUSEUM
This charming museum inside an old tram depot actually
features five separate permanent exhibitions, plus temporary
exhibits. The first two permanent exhibits deal with the
history of public transport in Krakw and the development
of the Polish automotive industry through a hangar full of
old tram cars and trolleys and a large collection of unique
wheeled vehicles, the third explores the history of printing
in Krakw from the 15th to 20th centuries, the fourth is a
look at engineering feats in the city, while Around the Circle
teaches kids fundamental scientific principles via 30 handson play stations. Outside youll also find the small, seasonal
Garden of New Words - basically a playground for 3-5 year
olds. More fun than it sounds and recommended for families,
the science exhibit will hold kids interest long enough for
Dad to look at cars, while Mom dreams of escaping on that
motorbike.QE7, ul. w. Wawrzyca 15, tel. (+48) 12 421
12 42, www.mimk.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00. Closed
Mon. Admission 10/7z, family ticket 29z. YUN
ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM
Founded in 1911 inside Kazimierzs former Town Hall, this
cultural highlight often gets overlooked by tourists, but
offers wonderful and charming insight into Polish folk culture
and rural traditions, including beautiful recreations of 19thcentury peasant interiors, folk costumes and instruments,
extraordinary examples of local nativity cribs (szopki). The
permanent exhibition is currently being modernised, with
new exhibits called Od-nowa (Anew) - focussed on rural
rituals of spring in Poland (painted Easter eggs and palms),
and Unattainable Earth - which guides visitors through
hundreds of works of folk art via the words of Czesaw Miosz
(taken from his poem of the same name). With exhibits
sufficiently explained in English, those that visit here will be
happily rewarded. A separate gallery for changing exhibits
can also be found nearby at ul. Krakowska 46.QD7, Pl.
Wolnica 1, tel. (+48) 12 430 60 23, www.etnomuzeum.
eu. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 13/7z,
Sun free for permanent exhibitions. YUN
GALICIA JEWISH MUSEUM
The brainchild of late award-winning photo-journalist
Chris Schwarz, the permanent exhibit is comprised of
hundreds of photographs aimed at keeping the memory
of Jewish life in southern Poland and western Ukraine alive
in the aftermath of the Holocaust. The images of forgotten
cemeteries, derelict synagogues and death camps prove
haunting and sober viewing, and deserve to be an essential
part of any Kazimierz tour. The converted warehouse also
houses small temporary exhibits, a caf, information point
and a large bookstore selling a large range of titles of
Jewish interest.QE6, ul. Dajwr 18, tel. (+48) 12 421 68
42, www.galiciajewishmuseum.org. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Admission 15/10z, family ticket 30z, children under
7 free. Guided tours (available in English and French)
for groups of over 10: 13.50/8z per person; individual
guided tours: 60z/30-45mins, 100z/60mins. YU
PLAC WOLNICA
Ethnographic Museum
Perhaps Krakws most forgotten square, its hard

to imagine that Plac Wolnica was once equal in size
and stature to Krakws Rynek Gwny. When laid out
as the town square of Kazimierz (Rynek Kazimierski)
upon the towns establishment in 1335, this space
measured 195m by 195m (only 5m shorter on each
side than Rynek Gwny) making it the second largest
market square in Poland, if not Europe. It was here
that all the administrative and judicial authorities of
Kazimierz were established, as well as hundreds of
market stalls selling everything from fur and tobacco
to salt and amber. Hardly the bustling marketplace
it once was, todays Plac Wolnica (named so since
the end of the 18th century when it was granted the
privilege of free trade) covers only a small fragment of
the squares original size. However, the Town Hall has
managed to survive. Falling into ruin after Kazimierzs
incorporation into Krakw in 1802, the Town Hall was
taken over by local Jewish authorities who renovated
it into its present neo-Renaissance style in the late 19th
century. Since WWII it has housed the recommended
Ethnographic Museum. Ironically, it has been the
once more predominantly Jewish neighbourhoods
around Plac Nowy that have keyed Kazimierzs revival
over the last decade as Plac Wolnica has become
more synonymous with parking, pigeons and drunken
derelicts. That is all beginning to change however, with
more cafs and restaurants opening around its edges
and a new pedestrian bridge connecting Kazimierz
with Podgrze over the river to the south.QD7.
Inside the Ethnographic Museum
Photo by Marcin Wsik
April - May 2016
91
Kazimierz
PLAC NOWY
While Krakws main square, Rynek Gwny, makes all the

postcards and photographs, it is Plac Nowy in Kazimierz
that has emerged as the spiritual centre of Krakw
subculture. Lacking the splendour of the Old Town, Plac
Nowy is, if anything, something of an eyesore - a collection
of unkempt buildings surrounding a concrete square filled
with chipped green market stalls and rat-like pigeons
flapping about. If you want something completely
different from the Old Town, however, here it is.
Incorporated into the Jewish quarter in the late 17th
century, Plac Nowy (New Square) didnt really begin
assuming its shape until the early 19th century, with its
central landmark, the Okrglak (rotunda), added as late
as 1900. For generations this square was referred to by
locals as Plac ydowski (Jewish Square); not only was it
the primary marketplace of the Jewish quarter, but the
rotunda served as a ritual slaughterhouse for poultry
right up until Nazi occupation. Today butcher shops
still occupy the interior, but the real activity is outside
where hungry locals of every ilk line-up in front of holein-the-wall food hatches to enjoy the best zapiekanki
in Poland. Essentially a French bread pizza with the
toppings of your choice, visiting Krakw without eating
a Plac Nowy zapiekanka would be like visiting Dublin
without having a Guinness.
Merchant stalls surround the rotunda, and youll find
something happening here daily from 7:00 in the
morning until early afternoon. Fresh produce, sweets
and random rubbish are constant guarantees but weekly
highlights include junk/antique sale Saturdays, Sundays
clothing market, and Friday mornings bewildering
small critter expo/pigeon fair. A photo essay waiting to
happen, arrive early to the latter to learn the answer to
the riddle, How many rabbits fit in a suitcase?
As trade dries up for the day the area takes on a new guise:
Krakws premier pub crawl circuit (see page 64). Full of
shambolic charm, veteran boozers Singer and Alchemia
put Plac Nowy on the nightlife map, and remain two of the
squares best bets for candlelit, pre-war mystique, while
down the road (ul. Meiselsa) dark and arty Mleczarnia
boasts the citys best beer garden. In recent years the bars
on offer have begun to diversify, but the fact of the matter
remains that this bohemian outpost is Krakws most
interesting and exciting nightlife destination.QD6.
SYNAGOGUES
& JEWISH CEMETERIES
HIGH SYNAGOGUE
The third oldest synagogue in Krakw, the High Synagogue
was completed in 1563, and is unique for having its prayer
room upstairs; its widely theorised that this was a safety
precaution to protect the congregation from unfriendly
neighbours. The design didnt save it from being the subject
of arson during WWII sadly, and today no furnishings remain.
The upstairs prayer room has retained some original details,
however, including the Holy Ark, two golden griffins have
survived above the Aron Kodesh, and some of the murals
have been restored. The size of the high-ceilinged room and
quality of those details that do remain indicate that this was
a magnificent space before its destruction. Today admission
is paid to go upstairs to the prayer room, where visitors will
also see a small temporary museum exhibit. On the ground
floor is a large bookstore with books of Jewish interest in a
variety of languages.QE6, ul. Jozefa 38, tel. (+48) 12 430
68 89. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Admission to upstairs exhibit
9/6z, children under 10 free.
ISAAC SYNAGOGUE
The Isaac Synagogue, built in the early Judaic-Baroque
style, was opened in 1644, and was a gift to the city from
a wealthy Jew, Izaak Jakubowicz. The design is decoratively
endowed with arabesques and arches, yet retains a sober
linearity, especially within. There is much to admire, not
least the fragments of original wall scriptures. Rabbi Eliezer
Gurary runs the place with a smile and is usually on hand to
provide information to all comers. A shop inside sells kosher
food, sweets, Jewish calendars and other items, and around
the back youll find Szalom Falafel - Krakws only kosher
fast food restaurant (ul. Jakuba 21, open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri
10:00 - 15:00; closed Sat). Klezmer concerts take place here
Mon, Thu & Sun at 18:00 (60/40z).QE6, ul. Kupa 18, tel.
(+48) 12 430 22 22, www.chabadkrakow.pl. Open 08:30
- 20:00, Fri 08:30 - 14:30. Closed Sat. Admission 7/4z.
KUPA SYNAGOGUE
This rather unfortunately-named synagogue was founded
in 1643, using funds from the local kahal/qahal (mi-kupat
ha-kahal) - the autonomous Jewish government - which
were told explains where the name Kupa comes from, but
doesnt change the fact that it translates to poop in Polish
(oh well). Designed in the Baroque style with a square
prayer room, the synagogue shared a wall with the original
Kazimierz city defensive walls, which can be seen from ul.
Miodowa. Undergoing several renovations and expansions
over the centuries, the synagogue was connected to the
adjacent building in the 19th century and meticulously
restored in 2000. The richly decorated interior features
paintings of Biblical scenes and holy places done by an
unknown artist in the 1920s. Shabbat services are held here
each Friday.QD/E6, ul. Warszauera 8 (entrance from
Miodowa), tel. (+48) 12 429 57 35, www.krakow.jewish.
org.pl. Open 10:00 - 16:00, Fri 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat.
Admission 5/3z.
Kazimierz
NEW JEWISH CEMETERY
This enormous cemetery was established in 1800 and
was the burial ground for many of Krakws distinguished
Jews in the 19th and early 20th centuries. Its story takes
on a darker aspect with the decimation of the Jewish
population between 1939 and 1945. Many of the
tombstones are actually no more than memorials to entire
families that were killed in the Holocaust, which now lie in
overgrown clusters. The rejuvenation of Kazimierz has not
fully penetrated the walls of the New Cemetery, but there
are many newly-lit candles burning over the headstones.
An undeniably evocative place for a reflective walk, please
cover your head upon entry.QE5, ul. Miodowa 55. Open
10:00 - 16:00, Fri 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat.
OLD SYNAGOGUE
Built on the cusp of the 15th and 16th centuries, the Old
Synagogue serves as the oldest surviving example of Jewish
religious architecture in Poland and is home to a fine series
of exhibits that showcase the history and traditions of Polish
Judaism. It is no longer a working synagogue. The English
explanations assume no great depth of knowledge on
the readers part and are therefore a perfect primer on the
subject. In the midst of all the glass cases stands the bimah
enclosed in an elaborate, wrought iron balustrade. There are
also changing temporary exhibitions, and the bookshop
sells a fine selection of works related to Jewish Krakw in
a number of languages.QE6, ul. Szeroka 24, tel. (+48)
12 422 09 62, www.mhk.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Mon
10:00 - 14:00 . Last entrance 30 minutes before closing.
Admission 10/8z, family ticket 20z, Mon free. Y
The Old Synagogue
Inside the Temple Synagogue
Photo by Grzegorz Ziemianski
The Man Who Tried to Stop the Holocaust - was unveiled

near the entrance.QE6, ul. Szeroka 40, tel. (+48) 12 429
57 35. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Fri 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sat.
Admission 5z.
TEMPLE SYNAGOGUE (SYNAGOGA TEMPEL)
Kazimierzs newest synagogue dates back to 1862, with
several later expansions, the most recent of which was in
1924. Under Nazi occupation the building was used as a
warehouse and stables, yet survived the war and regular
services were even held here until 1968, before stopping
completely a decade later. Since restoration, the gilded
woodwork within now plays host to many concerts and
occasional religious ceremonies, particularly during the
annual Jewish Festival of Culture.QD6, ul. Miodowa 24,
tel. (+48) 12 430 54 11. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Fri 09:00 14:00. Closed Sat. Admission 10/5z.
kilhan / Dollar Photo Club
REMUH SYNAGOGUE & CEMETERY

The smallest but soon-to-be most active synagogue in
Kazimierz, dating from 1553. Current restoration works
are expected to be complete in May, after which Shabbat
services will take place here each Friday; until then groups
need to make an appointment to visit, but individuals
are free to enter during opening hours and stroll through
the cemetery, which was in use until 1800. This holy
burial ground was spared by the vandalism of the Nazis
because many of the gravestones had been buried to avoid
desecration during the 19th century occupation of Krakw
by Austrian forces. Most famous is the tomb of the 16th
century Rabbi Moses Isserles, better known as the Remuh.
Beside him lies his wife, Golda Auerbach, in the cemeterys
oldest tomb. Recently a bench dedicated to Jan Karski facebook.com/KrakowInYourPocket
April - May 2016
93
Podgrze
Cross the Bernatek footbridge (J4) to explore what lies beyond the river in Podgrze.
When Spielberg came to Krakw to produce his awardwinning film Schindlers List, the result was a fast
and far-reaching revitalisation of Kazimierz, Krakws
former Jewish district. Ironically, however, it didnt reach
across the river to Podgrze, despite the fact most of
the films historic events took place there, as did much
of the filming. As Kazimierz became super-saturated
with tourists and bars, predictions were that Podgrze
would emerge as Krakws next hip bohemian district;
however aside from a small stable of rogue cafes, things
were slow to develop and for a long time getting off the
beaten path in Krakw was as easy as crossing the river to
Podgrze. Since the opening of Schindlers Factory (p.96)
as a major attraction and the construction of the Bernatek
footbridge (E-7) creating a direct artery of tourist traffic
into the district, that has begun to change, but Podgrze
remains Krakws most mysterious and underappreciated
neighbourhood.
On March 21, 1941, the entire Jewish population residing in

Kazimierz were marched across the Silesian Uprisings Bridge and
crammed into what was to become known as the Podgrze
Ghetto (p.98). Traces of the Ghetto still exist, including a
prominent stretch of the wall on ul. Lwowska (p.99). Liquidated
on March 14, 1943, the majority of the Ghettos residents were
murdered there, while others met death in the nearby Liban
quarry (p.97) and Paszw concentration camp, or in the
gas chambers of Auschwitz-Birkenau and Beec. The opening
of the Schindlers Factory Museum has, in addition to helping
the city bury the ghosts of the Holocaust, finally endorsed
Podgrzes status as a bona fide tourist destination. With plenty
to see and do, you could easily spend an entire day exploring
Podgrze and a walk up into the hills of Krzemionki behind old
Podgrze is not only a great way to get off the beaten path - its
also Krakws most evocative area.
A district rich in natural beauty, tragic history and unusual

attractions, the first signs of settlement in Podgrze date
from over ten thousand years ago, though the Swedish
invasion in the 17th century saw much of Podgrze
levelled. Awarded the rights of a free city in 1784 by the
Austrian Emperor Joseph II, the town was eventually
incorporated as Krakws fourth district in 1915, and
the following decades saw its aggressive development;
quarries and brickworks were constructed, and a string
of military forts added, of which Fort Benedict (p.97) is
the only still standing. An indication of Podgrzes age is
Krakus Mound (p.96), excavations of which have dated
it to the Iron Age. However, the trespasses of more recent
history are what people most associate with the district.
ST. JOSEPHS
Presiding over the heart of historic Podgrze on the south
side of the districts main square, this unmissable neo-gothic
juggernaut was built between 1905-09 on the design of
Jan Sas-Zubrzycki. Dominated by an 80 metre clock tower,
elaborate masonry dressing, gargoyles and sculptures of
saints, St. Josephs slender, yet imposing brick facade rates
among the most beautiful in Krakw and is gorgeously
illuminated at night. The interior is no less beautiful and visitors
should also note the abandoned 1832 belfry that stands on
a rocky outcropping behind the church - all that remains of
the original temple, dismantled due to design flaws.QJ5, ul.
Zamojskiego 2, tel. (+48) 12 656 17 56, www.jozef.diecezja.
pl. Open 30mins before mass and by prior arrangement.
CHURCHES
Podgrze
MUSEUMS
CRICOTEKA
Tadeusz Kantor (1915-1990) was an avant-garde artist,
theatre director, set designer and a major figure in 20th
theatre reform, known for his revolutionary theatre
productions. In 1980 he created Cricoteka as a living
archive to document the achievements of himself and
his theatre company Cricot 2. In 2014, Cricoteka opened
its new headquarters here on the site of the former
Podgrze power station, with the aim of better presenting
his work and its impact on modern art and theatre. The
building itself is an apparent homage to his experimental
approach, literally hovering above the existing buildings
with a bizarre facade of rusted metal and black mirror.
Combined with the original buildings, the multifunctional
site hosts an exhibition space, archive, theatre hall and
bookshop; as a result, a large amount of its programme
involves happenings, performances, workshops and other
live events (check their website for those). As a museum,
its difficult to recommend to those who arent already
familiar with Kantor, or fans of alienating, experimental
theatre. Temporary exhibits show art apparently inspired
by Kantors ideas, while the permanent exhibit shows the
evolution of Kantors increasingly eccentric career via stage
props he created (including lots of creepy mannequins)
and video footage. Free tablets with English-language
info are available for visitors at the ticket desk. Whether it
all resonates is purely a matter of personal taste, as public
opinion is notably divided.QJ4, ul. Nadwilaska 2, tel.
(+48) 12 442 77 70, www.news.cricoteka.pl. Open 11:00
- 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/5z, family ticket 15z.
Y
LIPOWA 3 GLASS & CERAMICS CENTRE
Located directly across from MOCAK, this building has been
a glassworks since 1931 and actually flourished during the
PRL-era when up to 500 people were employed here under
the auspices of not only glass bottle production but also
glass art, scientific research and industrial design. During
the 1970s Cracovian glass achieved international renown
for its bold experimentation with form, colour and texture,
and today Lipowa 3 is still used for national glass research
and production. The idea of an educational museum
showcasing Polish glass and glassblowing technology has
actually existed since 1972, and recent investment has now
made those collections open to the public. The permanent
exhibit includes bilingual displays of historical glass tools
and antique glassware, but the highlight is the impressive
Cracovian Glass Art Collection of contemporary coloured
glassware produced here between 1931 and 1998. Live
demonstrations of glass hand-moulded in a blast furnace
begin March 14th, regularly from 10:00 - 17:00, Sat 10:00 11:00. The ground floor includes a shop and a free gallery
for rotating exhibits of contemporary glass art.QK4,
ul. Lipowa 3, tel. (+48) 12 423 67 90, www.lipowa3.
pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00; closed Sun.
Permanent exhibit and live demonstrations 14/12z,
exhibit only 8/6z.
MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART
Opened in 2011, Krakows Museum of Contemporary Art

(MOCAK) does not disappoint, capably holding its own with
comparable international art institutions. Tucked behind
Schindlers Factory, the building alone will impress with its
avant-garde styling and ultra-modern layout. The museum
boasts a large and fine permanent collection of modern art
highlighting both Polish and international artists, plus a new
permanent exhibition space inspired by Warhols cult NYC
studio known as The Factory. There are also always several
provocative temporary exhibitions (see our Events section
for more info), and a large cafe and bookshop. Despite
the relatively late closing hour, make sure to leave yourself
plenty of time to enjoy all the museum has to offer.QK4, ul.
Lipowa 4, tel. (+48) 12 263 40 00, www.mocak.pl. Open
11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Last entrance 1 hour before
closing. Admission 10/5z, Tue free. Guided tours (80z) in
English and German available, but must be arranged by
phone in advance. YU
PHARMACY UNDER THE EAGLE
When the Nazis created the Jewish ghetto in Podgrze in
1941, this pharmacy on Pl. Bohaterw Getta and its Polish
owner Tadeusz Pankiewicz found themselves at the very
heart of it. Deciding to stay, Pankiewicz and his staff were
the only Poles allowed to live and work in the ghetto and
over the two years of the ghettos existence, Apteka Pod
Orem became an important centre of social life as well as
aid in acquiring food and medicine, falsified documents and
avoiding deportations. Pankiewicz (recognised today as one
of the Righteous Among the Nations) and his staff risked
their lives in many clandestine operations while bearing
witness to tragedy through the windows of the pharmacy
as the ghetto and its 15,000 inhabitants were ultimately
April - May 2016
95
Podgrze
KRAKUS MOUND
The oldest structure in Krakw, Krakus Mound (Kopiec

Krakusa) is one of two prehistoric monumental mounds in
the city and is also its highest point, providing incredible
panoramic views from its worn summit. 16m high, 60m
wide at the base and 8m wide at the top, Kraks Mound
has received some much-needed attention lately with
gravel now spread over what was formerly a very muddy
trail winding up to a bald peak. The site of pagan rituals
for centuries, the mound retains an ancient, evocative
atmosphere amplified by the surroundings of the cliffs of
Krzemionki, the green rolling fields of Paszw, the grim
Liban quarry and the Podgrze cemetery. With incredible
views of the city, Krakus Mound lies at the centre of one
of Krakws least explored and most captivating areas and
should be visited by anyone looking to take a rewarding
detour from the beaten path. It can be approached most
easily from the Powstacw Wielopolskich tram stop via
ul. Robotnicza to the steps of al. Pod Kopcem (K5), or
by following ul. Dembowskiego (J5) to the pedestrian
bridge over al. Powstacw Wielopolskich to the base of
the mound.
The result of great human effort and innovative
engineering, Krakus Mound has long been a source
of legend and mystery. Connected with the legend of
Krakws mythical founder, King Krak or Krakus, the mound
is said to have been constructed in honour of his death
when noblemen and peasants filled their sleeves with
sand and dirt, bringing it to this site in order to create an
artificial mountain that would rule over the rest of the
landscape. In the interwar period, extensive archaeological
studies were undertaken to try to date the mound and
verify if Krak was indeed buried beneath it. Though much
about the ingenuity of the mounds prehistoric engineers
was revealed, no trace of a grave was found; a bronze
belt from the 8th century was unearthed and there is
general agreement today that the mound was created
by a Slavonic colony sometime between the latter half of
the 7th century and the early 10th century, though other
hypotheses credit it to the Celts. Originally four smaller
mounds surrounded the base of Kraks mound, however
these were levelled in the mid-19th century during the
construction of the citys first fortress which surrounded
the area with a wall embankment and a moat (later levelled
in 1954). The legend of Kraks mound inspired the modern
creation of burial mounds for Kociuszko and Pisudski and
today it remains one of Polands greatest archaeological
mysteries.QK5, above ul. Maryewskiego.
liquidated. Today the building is a branch of the Krakw

Historical Museum, recreated to look as it did during Nazi
occupation, which through traditional and multimedia
displays, and extensive testimonials from both Poles and
Jews, heartrendingly describes life in the Krakw Ghetto.
Information is displayed inside the chests and cupboards
of the pharmacy, and visitors are encouraged to handle
dozens of replica artefacts and reprinted photographs,
heightening the reality of the events described and creating
a very intimate visiting experience. Though comprising only
5 rooms, set aside at least an hour for visiting this excellent
museum.QJ4, Pl. Bohaterw Getta 18, tel. (+48) 12 656
56 25, www.mhk.pl. Open 09:00 - 17:00, Mon 10:00 14:00. Last entrance 30 minutes before closing. Note
that it is closed on the second Tuesday of every month.
Admission 10/8z, family ticket 20z, Mon free. Y
SCHINDLERS FACTORY
In 2010, the Oskar Schindler Enamelled Goods Factory (to
give it its full name) re-opened to the public as a world-class
museum. The story of Oskar Schindler and his employees is
one which has been well-known since Steven Spielbergs film
Schindlers List (which was shot almost entirely in Krakw)
brought it to audiences across the world in 1993, and while that
story is covered in detail on the original site where many events
took place, the museum actually casts the city of Krakw in the
main role of its permanent exhibition titled, Krakw During
Nazi Occupation 1939-1945. Individual histories of Krakws
wartime inhabitants guide visitors through the exhibit which
covers the war of 1939, everyday life under occupation, the fate
of the Jews, the citys underground resistance and more, using
vast archival documents, photos, radio and film recordings,
period artefacts and dynamic multimedia installations. Other
exhibits change regularly, while a separate section of the
original factory is reserved for film screenings, lectures and
other events. A must-visit, Schindlers Factory is one of the
most fascinating museums in the entire country and we
recommend you reserve at least two hours if you want to see
everything. To get there take a tram to Pl. Bohaterw Getta (J4) and its a 5-10 minute walk down ul. Kcik, under the train
overpass, onto ul. Lipowa and youre there.QK4, ul. Lipowa
4, tel. (+48) 12 257 10 17, www.mhk.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00,
Mon 10:00 - 16:00; first Mon of each month 10:00 - 14:00.
Last entrance 1.5 hours before closing. Admission 21/16z,
family ticket 50z. Groups of over 15 people 18z (without
guide)/20z (with guide) and must book in advance. Mon
free for permanent exhibitions. Y
fotopolska.eu
Podgrze
PLACES OF INTEREST
FORT BENEDICT
The only surviving fortress of three that were built in
Podgrze in the mid-19th century to protect the Vistula
River and the road to Lww, Fort Benedict is one of
only a few citadels of the Maximillion Tower type left
anywhere. An impressive two-storey brick artillery
tower in the shape of a sixteen-sided polygon with
a round interior yard, the fort has a total surface area
of 1500 square metres. Atop the Krzemionki cliffs on
Lasota Hill, it takes its name from nearby St. Benedicts
church. The fortress quickly lost its usefulness in the
1890s and has since been used as Austrian military
barracks and was even converted into apartments in
the 1950s, though today it lies in general dereliction,
filled with abandoned furniture and building materials.
After numerous projects involving the fort failed
to develop, care of Fort Benedict has recently been
transferred back to the city of Krakw, with plans for
its renovation awaiting approval. At the moment,
however, it remains impenetrable to tourists, adding
to the scenery and mystique of one of Krakws most
surprising and strange corners.QK5, Lasota Hill.
PLAC BOHATERW GETTA
First plotted out in 1836, this public square just across
the river from the Powstacw lskich bridge has had
a turbulent history, with turns as a marketplace, horse
stable, execution site, taxi rank and bus terminal over
the years. During the time of the Krakw Ghetto it was
at once the source of the residents greatest relief and
also the scene of their greatest horrors and humiliation.
As the ghettos largest open space, Plac Zgody was
a place for people to socialise, relax and escape the
oppressive overcrowding of the tenements. It was also
the site of families being torn apart, mass deportations
to the death camps, beatings and executions. Following
deportations and the final liquidation of the ghetto, Plac
Zgody was strewn with furniture, clothes, luggage and
other belongings that the victims had been forced to
abandon - this image would later inspire the redesign
of the square. Though after the war the name of Plac
Zgody was changed to Plac Bohaterw Getta (Ghetto
Heroes Square) and a small monument was erected, the
spaces historical significance never felt more pertinent
than its post-war use as a public toilet or parking lot.
Finally, after decades of neglect, Plac Bohaterw Getta
was renovated in 2005, sparking significant controversy
over the design. Nonetheless, today it is perhaps the
most iconic place in Podgrze. Laid out with 70 large
well-spaced metal chairs meant to symbolise departure,
as well as subsequent absence, the entire square has
essentially been turned into an evocative memorial to
the victims of the Krakw Ghetto. A place for candles
and reflection was also added within the small, former
bus terminal building at the north end of the square,
however it still goes sadly ignored (see if you can do
something about that).QJ4.
LIBAN QUARRY
One of the creepiest, most forgotten places in Krakw,

the Liban Quarry should first and foremost be a place of
remembrance for the victims of the Nazi labour camp
that operated here during WWII. That said, the site which largely lies in overgrown abandon today - offers
adventurous visitors some intriguing opportunities for
exploration, photography, and personal reflection. Left to
slowly evolve into a nature sanctuary for local waterfowl,
pheasants, birds of prey and various other creatures,
the quarrys towering limestone cliffs, ponds and dense
vegetation are as breath-taking as the rusting refinery
equipment, fence posts, gravestones and tangles of barbed
wire that can still be found amongst the brush here.
The Jewish limestone company Liban and Ehrenpreis
established a quarry here in 1873, and by the end of the
19th century a complex of buildings had been established
inside and a railway line had been laid. During Nazi
occupation, however, Liban was seized and set-up as
a cruel penal camp where 800 Poles were forced to
perform grueling slave labour from 1942 to 1944. A small,
discreet and easily overlooked memorial for 21 inmates
executed during the liquidation of the camp lies beside
the cliffside at the Za Torem end of the site.
In 1993 Steven Spielberg used Liban as the set of all
the scenes from Schindlers List that take place in the
Paszw concentration camp. During filming 34
barracks and watchtowers were set-up around the
quarry, and though most of the set was subsequently
removed, some traces remain confusingly mixed with
the genuine historical leftovers from the war, making
it unclear just how uncomfortable you should feel as
you walk amongst the many gallows-like fence posts
strung with barbed wire and rusty machinery. Certainly,
the most disturbing site is the central pathway paved
with Jewish headstones; we can put you at ease by
assuring you it is not genuine. An incredibly evocative,
yet peaceful and beautiful site, enter the quarry at
your own risk by following a trail from Krakus Mound
toward Podgrze Cemetery along the rim of and into
the quarry, or try your luck from ul. Za Torem; though
there is nothing unlawful about being in the quarry,
city employees of the Housing Office buildings at the
quarrys entrance have been known to deny entry or
ask people to leave.QJ/K5, ul. Za Torem.
April - May 2016
97
Jewish Ghetto
Krakw has always been regarded as the cultural centre

of Poland, and before World War II it was likewise an
important cultural centre for approximately 65,000 Jews one quarter of the citys total population - who enjoyed the
citys relatively tolerant climate. Persecution of the Jewish
community began almost immediately following German
occupation in early September 1939, however. Despite an
increasing series of regulations restricting the civil rights
and personal freedom of Jews, more and more were
arriving in Krakw from the rest of PL in the hope of finding
safety amidst the citys dense community. In October 1939,
the Nazis registered 68,482 Jews in Krakw.
Conditions continued to worsen, however, and in April 1940,
Hans Frank - Nazi commander of the General Government
(the part of German-occupied PL that was not directly
incorporated into Germany) - ordered the resettlement of
Krakws Jews, in keeping with his desire for the capital of
the General Government to be a Jew-free city. As a result of
resettlement in late 1940, Krakws Jewish population was
reduced to the 16,000 deemed necessary to maintain the
economy at the time, with the 52,000-odd others forcibly
deported, largely to labour camps in the east.
ESTABLISHMENT
On March 3rd, 1941 Otto Wchter, Governor of the Krakw
district, decreed the establishment of a new Jewish
Housing District on the right bank of the Wisa River in
the district of Podgrze. What would become known as
the Krakw or Podgrze Ghetto initially comprised an
approximately 20 hectare (50 acre) space of some 320
mostly one- and two-story buildings in Podgrzes historic
centre bound by the river and the Krzemionki hills to the
north and south, and between the Krakw-Paszw rail
line and Podgrzes market square to the east and west. In
the 17 days between the ghettos establishment and the
March 20, 1941 resettlement deadline, approximately 3,000
original residents of the district were relocated across the
river to be replaced by some 16,000 Jews, whose property
and possessions were confiscated with the exception
of what they could carry into the ghetto. Thousands of
unregistered Jews also illegally entered the ghetto seeking
protection, bringing the total population of the Krakw
Ghetto to about 18,000.
Overcrowding was an obvious problem with one
apartment allocated for every four families and an average
of two square metres of living space per person. Windows
facing Aryan Podgrze were bricked or boarded up to

prevent contact with the outside world and a 3 metre
high wall was erected around the confines of the ghetto,
crowned with arches conscientiously designed to resemble
Jewish tombstones. Four guarded entrance gates accessed
the ghetto - the main gate from Rynek Podgrski on
ul. Limanowskiego (J-4), another on the east end of ul.
Limanowskiego near its intersection with ul. Rkawka and
ul. Lwowska (K-4), a third close by at the intersection of
ul. Lwowska and ul. Jzefiska (K-4), and another at Plac
Zgody (today known as Plac Bohaterw Getta, J-4, p.97). A
tram initially ran through the ghetto, and though it made
no stops, food and other valuable commodities frequently
found their way into the ghetto via its windows.
Many Jewish institutions were transferred into the ghetto,
and several non-Jewish businesses continued to operate,
most notably Tadeusz Pankiewiczs Pharmacy Under the
Eagle (p.95) on Plac Zgody (J-4). Many Jews also worked
outside the ghetto, particularly in the Zabocie industrial
district, which included Oskar Schindlers enamelware
factory at ul. Lipowa 4 (K-4, p.96).
DEPORTATIONS
Following an October 15th, 1941 decree requiring all Jews
of the Krakw region - not just the city centre - to move
to the Podgrze Ghetto, a further 6,000 Jews from villages
around Maopolska entered the ghetto, making conditions
unbearable. To alleviate the distress Nazi authorities happily
announced that they would begin deportations, and 1000
people - mostly elderly and unemployed -were loaded into
cattle cars and sent to Kielce, where they were expected to
find aid from local Jewish authorities. Not knowing what
else to do, many of them actually returned clandestinely to
their families in the Krakw Ghetto.
Following the Wannsee Conference in January 1942,
the Nazis began to initiate The Final Solution - Hitlers
systematic plan for the annihilation of European Jewry.
May 29th 1942 was the first of ten days of terror within the
Krakw Ghetto as it was surrounded by Nazi troops and all
documents were inspected. Those who couldnt produce
proper work permits were assembled on Plac Zgody
before being transferred to Paszw rail station, loaded
into cattle cars in groups of 120, and sent to Beec death
camp in eastern PL. Unsatisfied by the initial numbers, the
Germans continued their arbitrary round-ups for days. One
June 6th all previous documents were declared invalid
and ghetto occupants were required to apply for a new
Blauschein or Blue Pass; those that were denied likewise
met their deaths in Beec, including popular poet and
songwriter Mordechai Gebirtig and renowned painter
Abraham Neuman. By the end of the action, 7,000 Jews
had been sent to their deaths, and many more simply shot
in the streets. [The June deportations were one of the best
documented of such actions, however photos from the
events are still commonly misidentified as being taken
during the ghettos liquidation in March 1943.] Two weeks
later the area of the ghetto was reduced almost by half
Jewish Ghetto
to the north side of ul. Limanowskiego and demarcated
by barbed wire. The increased density of the population
and increasing brutality of the Germans set off a wave of
suicides. Though some remained optimistic, worse was to
come. Work was also beginning on the nearby Paszw
labour camp, which would eventually portend the end of
the Krakw ghetto.
In late August and early September, 12-13,000 Jews (many
originating from Krakw) were also sent to Beec as the
ghettos in nearby Somniki and Wieliczka were liquidated.
Following these brutal events, the correlation between
deportation and death became fully understood perhaps
for the first time in Krakw. In October the Germans
announced that the Krakw ghetto would be consolidated
again and selections began anew, with no regard toward
employment status, age or health. Another 4,500 victims
were sent to their deaths in Beec, while some 600 were
shot inside the ghetto. With the liquidation of the ghetto
hospital, orphanage and elderly home, many orphans and
invalids were sent to the newly established Paszw labour
camp, only to be murdered on arrival. Afterwards the area
east of Plac Zgody ceased to be part of the ghetto, and a
month later the remaining territory was divided into two
sections: Ghetto A was reserved for the healthiest, most
able-bodied residents, and Ghetto B for those less desirable
and destined for deportation. Residents of Ghetto A began
commuting daily to work on the construction of Paszw
labour camp, and after Amon Goeth arrived in Krakw
as its new Camp Commandant the pace of the camps
development hastened the ghettos demise.
LIQUIDATION
As soon as enough barracks had been built, Goeth ordered
that the inhabitants of Ghetto A permanently relocate to
Paszw, and on March 13th 1943 local SS Commander
Julian Scherner ordered the final liquidation of the
Krakw Ghetto. Carried out in two phases, at least 6,000
Jews (some sources cite up to 8,000) from Ghetto A were
immediately transported to Paszw; residents of Ghetto
B and all children under 14 were ordered to assemble on
Plac Zgody the next day. Despite likely knowing what lay
in store, many mothers stayed behind when Ghetto A was
liquidated, refusing to abandon their children.
March 14th 1943 was likely the bloodiest day in Podgrzes
history. The ghetto - which at that point essentially consisted
of only Plac Zgody and the block of buildings just south of it
- was surrounded by German troops who attempted to herd
its residents to the transports leaving from the square. Chaos
reigned and those who resisted or attempted to escape
were shot. Over 1,000 people were killed in the streets
(some estimates are as high as 2,000) and the 3,000 that left
via cattle car went almost directly to the gas chambers in
Auschwitz. After this final deportation, the Germans cleaned
their mess, looting the houses, stripping the luggage strewn
everywhere of anything valuable, and taking down all the
barbed wire. The Krakw Ghetto disappeared leaving
almost as little trace as the Jews who lived there.
TRACES OF THE GHETTO

GHETTO WALL FRAGMENT
Krakws most prominent evidence of its ghetto is this
12-metre stretch of the original ghetto wall. In 1983,
a commemorative plaque was raised, which reads in
Hebrew and Polish: Here they lived, suffered and died
at the hands of the German torturers. From here they
began their final journey to the death camps.QK4, ul.
Lwowska 25-29.
GHETTO WALL FRAGMENT
An even longer and arguably more evocative section of
the original ghetto wall can be seen in the playground
behind the primary school at ul. Limanowskiego
60/62. Those looking to continue their creepy tour of
the area should climb the steep trail leading from the
back of the playground straight up to the Old Podgrze
Cemetery, to the right from which is the abandoned
Fort Benedict.QK5, ul. Limanowskiego 62.
STARMACH GALLERY
Built between 1879-1881, this unique brick building
was one of four former prayer houses within the area
of the ghetto, the others being located at numbers 6
and 7 on the very same street and nearby at ul. Krakusa
7. Religious practise was outlawed by the Germans
during the war (though it continued in secret) and
the synagogue was converted into a warehouse and
then a factory. When the ghetto was established, many
valuable religious artefacts from Kazimierz synagogues
were transferred here for protection, however the
eventual liquidation of the ghetto guaranteed that they
were looted and lost. After the war the building slowly
fell into dereliction until Andrzej and Teresa Starmach
rescued it in 1996, restoring the facade and turning it
into one of the largest and most renowned private art
galleries in PL. The exhibitions are always outstanding
and a visit is highly recommended.QJ4, ul. Wgierska
5, tel. (+48) 12 656 43 17, www.starmach.eu. Open
11:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Admission free.
The outline of the former ghetto

can be seen on our map, page 136.
April - May 2016
99
Nowa Huta
Nowa Hutas central promenade, Roses Avenue (p.103).
The bastard child of a devastated post WWII Poland, the

huge Socialist Realist suburb of Nowa Huta is the direct
antithesis of everything cuddly Krakw is. Gargoyles and
tourists? Not here. The Orwellian settlement of Nowa Huta
is one of only two entirely pre-planned socialist realist cities
ever built (the other being Magnitogorsk in Russias Ural
Mountains), and one of the finest examples of deliberate
social engineering in the world.
Funded by the Soviet Union, Nowa Huta swallowed
up a huge swathe of ideal agricultural land, and the
ancient village of Kocielniki (as well as parts of Mogia
and Krzesawice) in an attempt to create an in-your-face
proletarian opponent to intellectual, artsy-fartsy, fairytale
Krakw. The decision to build NH was rubber stamped on
May 17, 1947 and over the next few years construction of
a model city for 100,000 people sprung up at breakneck
speed. Built to impress, Nowa Huta featured wide, treelined avenues, parks, lakes and the officially sanctioned
architectural style of the time - Socialist Realism. Nowa
Hutas architects strove to construct the ideal city, with
ironic inspiration coming from the neighbourhood
blocks built in 1920s New York (that despicable western
metropolis). Careful planning was key, and the suburb
was designed with efficient mutual control in mind: wide
streets would prevent the spread of fire and the profusion
of trees would easily soak up a nuclear blast, while the
layout was such that the city could easily be turned into a
fortress if it came under attack.
Work on the first block of flats began on June 23, 1949,
and it was a massive task, with volunteer workers flocking
from across Poland to take part in this bold project. Feats of

personal sacrifice were rife and encouraged with one man,
Piotr Oaski, publicly credited with laying an stupendous
33,000 bricks in one single day. For the workers life was
tough; many were still sleeping in tents when the first
winter arrived, legends abound of bodies buried in the
foundations, and crime was rampant.
Somewhat sadly perhaps, the Utopian dream that was
Nowa Huta was never fully realised. A fearsome town hall
in the style of the renaissance halls found across Poland
was never built, nor was the theatre building across from
it and the ornamental architectural details planned for the
monumental buildings of Plac Centralny were never added.
However what was completed is very much worth the trip
for intrepid tourists willing to teleport themselves into a
completely different reality far from the cobbled kitsch of
Krakw; its as easy as a tramride.
Scale model of original urban plan for Plac Centralny and Roses
Avenue.
Nowa Huta
WHAT TO SEE
Jump off a tram at the Plac Centralny stop, and find
yourself at the very nucleus of Nowa Huta. From 1973 to
1989 an enormous monument of Vladimir Lenin (p.101)
towered over the citizens of Nowa Huta at the north end of
Plac Centralny. Dismantling it after the fall of communism
in Poland was an important act of symbolism (cheered by
thousands of spectators), which later turned into almost
comic irony when the square he once stood on - and which
was named for a time after Joseph Stalin - was officially redesignated Ronald Reagan Square in 2004. Speak to any
local, however, and youll still hear it referred to as Plac
Centralny. A walk around Plac Centralnys fearsome social
realist arcades brings you to several points of interest,
including the iconic Markiza neon sign, and Cepelix folk
art shop (p.103). Also within easy walking distance is the
former witowid cinema, another social realist stalwart
that today houses the PRL Museum (p.102). Make it one
of your first stops before wandering back to Plac Centralny
and down Roses Avenue to the Nowa Huta District
Museum (p.102).
Although Plac Centralny and Roses Avenue serve as the
focal point for visitors, its the Steelworks (ul. Ujasek 1, T-2)
that Nowa Huta is famous for, not to mention named after.
Employing some 40,000 people in its heyday the Lenin
Steelworks were capable of producing seven million tonnes
of steel annually, and boasted the largest blast furnace in
Europe. Like Plac Centralny, the steel mill entrance has been
given the full socialist treatment, flanked by two concrete
monstrosities built to echo the fine old buildings of Poland.
Enjoy the view because youll go no further; the steelworks
are sadly off limits to tourists at the moment.
Nowa Huta was meant to be a showcase socialist city,
but it soon became a hotbed of anti-communist activity
and played a huge role in the Solidarity strikes of the
early 1980s, preceded by the struggle for permission to
build the citys first church; though it took 28 years, The
Lords Ark (p.102) was finally consecrated in 1977. While
much of NH is the product of the last half century, a true
tour of the area reveals a number of treasures of much
older historical value. The most epitomising example of
a pre-steel age in the area is Wandas Mound (p.103), a
mysterious prehistoric earthwork that proves the areas
settlement predates that of Krakws Old Town. If youve
extra time, the quiet neighbouring village of Mogia (R-5)
meanwhile harbours one of the most cherished religious
sites in Maopolska in the Cistercian Monastery and its
morbidly miraculous cross.
GETTING TO NOWA HUTA

Getting to NH is a cinch thanks to a well-designed tram
network. Tram 4 from Dworzec Gwny (the train
station stop, D-2) goes straight to Plac Centralny (O-4)
in about 20mins.
MEMORIES OF LENIN
While Krakws royal associations are common

knowledge, few know that Comrade Lenin quietly
called the city home from 1912-1914 before he was
arrested as an enemy of the state and imprisoned
in Nowy Targ. Released days later he returned to
Krakw to pack his bags and fled to Switzerland, only
to become one of the most famous names in world
history a few years later.
As an avid cyclist it is distinctly possible that during
his two years in Krakw Lenin may have visited the
area upon which Nowa Huta would later be built. He
made a high-profile postmortem return in 1954 when
the Steelworks were named after him, and in 1970
Marian Konieczny won a controversial commission
to build a monumental statue of him on Aleja R
(Roses Avenue, p.103); strangely, the artist was at
that time living in Lenins former flat. Konieczny spent
three years creating a stunning seven tonne statue
of Lenin striding purposefully forward down Nowa
Hutas main thoroughfare with his raincoat open and
brow furrowed. The people of Nowa Huta, however,
were unimpressed, and the statue soon became the
focus of creative vandals. In one such case a rusty old
bicycle, battered pair of boots and a handwritten note
were left below the statue which read, Take these old
boots, get on the bike and get the hell out of Nowa
Huta. In 1979 a bomb was planted at his feet, though
the only casualty proved to be a local man who died
of shock after being awoken by the blast. During
Martial Law (Dec. 1981 - July 1983) more attempts to
destroy Lenins statue were thwarted, and it doggedly
survived an effort to pull it down, as well as an arson
attack. Finally, on December 10, 1989, Lenin was
lifted by a giant crane, boxed up and left to rot in a
disused fort until a Swedish philanthropist bought
the monument for 100,000 Swedish crowns, and
had it shipped to a museum outside of Stockholm. In
2014, as part of the ArtBoom festival, a mock-up of
the striding Lenin monument was again temporarily
erected on Roses Avenue, with a few key differences:
this one was a miniature neon yellow fountain of
Lenin urinating.
April - May 2016
101
Nowa Huta
THE LORDS ARK
Built between 1967 and 1977, Nowa Hutas first house

of worship was designed by Wojciech Pietrzyk and was
pieced together brick by brick by volunteer workers
with no assistance from the communist authorities. The
complete opposite of what Nowa Huta was meant to
stand for, The Lords Ark is a remarkable building, and a
true symbol of the Polish belief in Catholicism. With no
outside help it was down to the locals to mix cement
with spades, and find the two million stones needed
for the churchs facade. The first corner stone was laid
in 1969 by Cardinal Karol Wojtya, who would later
assume fame as Pope John Paul II, but the discovery of a
WWII ammunition dump delayed work, as some 5,000
mines and shells had to be carefully removed. Finally,
on May 15th 1977, the church was consecrated. Built
to resemble Noahs Ark, with a 70 metre mast-shaped
crucifix rising from the middle, the church houses an
array of curious treasures, including a stone from the
tomb of St. Peter in the Vatican, a tabernacle containing
a fragment of rutile brought back from the moon by
the crew of Apollo 11, and a controversial statue of
Christ that shows him not on a cross, but about to
fly to the heavens. If you think thats odd, check out
the statue dedicated to Our Lady the Armoured - a
half metre sculpture made from ten kilogrammes of
shrapnel removed from Polish soldiers wounded at the
Battle of Monte Cassino. In the early 1980s, the church
became a focal point during anti-communist protests,
not least for the shelter it afforded the locals from the
militia. Protesting during the period of Martial Law
was dangerous business, as proven by the monument
dedicated to Bogdan Wosik opposite the church.
Wosik was shot in the chest by security services, and
later died of his injuries. His death outraged the people,
and his funeral was attended by 20,000 mourners. The
monument commemorating the site of his death was
erected in 1992 and is a tribute to all those who died
during this period. As recently as September 2012,
Krakw City Council awarded Arka Pana the Cracoviae
Merenti silver medallion for its significance to the
citys history.QN1, ul. Obrocw Krzya 1, www.
arkapana.pl. Open 07:00 - 18:00. No visiting during
mass please.
MUSEUMS
PRL MUSEUM
In development for years, this museum inside the
former Kino wiatowid - a local landmark in social realist
architecture, completed in 1957 - is dedicated to Polish
history between the years 1944 and 1989, telling the
story of everyday life during the countrys communist
era. Though the building is awaiting further renovations,
part of the permanent exhibit has now been installed
in the basement, while temporary exhibits occupy
the ground floor. Due to a lack of English translations
the temporary exhibits are unlikely to engage tourists
much, but descend into the former cinemas cellars for
the intriguing Nuclear Threat: Shelters of Nowa Huta
exhibit. There are actually some 250 shelters beneath
NH - enough to accommodate every resident in the
district - and this is the largest in Krakw. Well-translated
throughout, including an instructive film with English
subtitles, here youll learn about the very organised and
intricate plan Poland had for dealing with a potential
nuclear attack during the Cold War, and the role every
citizen would play in such an event. If youre from the
West, its akin to mild culture shock, and the space itself
is impressively vast. Within easy walking distance from
Plac Centralny, if youve made the trip out to NH theres
no reason not to make a stop here. A small shop inside
selling genuine antiques from the PRL era is an added
bonus.QO4, Os. Centrum E 1, tel. (+48) 12 446 78
21, www.mprl.pl. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 7/5z, from May 11 9/7z; Tue free.
NOWA HUTA MUSEUM
This small museum features sweet neon signage and
a series of changing exhibitions relating to the life and
culture of the district. A requisite stop for anyone in the
area, here you can also pick up plenty of information
about NH, and they arrange sightseeing tours of the
district as well.QO2, os. Soneczne 16 (Nowa Huta), tel.
(+48) 12 425 97 75, www.mhk.pl. Open 09:30 - 17:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 6/4z, family ticket 12z, Wed
free. YUN
Nowa Huta
PLACES OF INTEREST
CENTRAL SQUARE & ROSES AVENUE
The centre of Nowa Hutas architectural layout, Plac
Centralny (Central Square) is the districts primary
landmark and one of social realisms highest architectural
achievements, despite never being completed. The two
main structures of the square were to be the towering
Town Hall (resembling a mini PKiN) at the northern end
and a colonnaded theatre at the southern end, with an
obelisk in between; though the designs were in place, none
saw development. Similarly, the grand promenade linking
them - Roses Avenue (Aleja R, O-3) - was never fully
realised, and terminates after a mere four blocks, making
it a fine example of your typical Stalinist road to nowhere.
While tooling around the six-story arcaded buildings lining

the way, youll find several curiosities. First and foremost,
dont miss the gorgeously restored Markiza neon sign
at the corner of os. Centrum A and al. Jana Pawa II (O-4).
Though the cake shop it advertised is long gone, the sign
stanmds out as the areas most nostalgic memento from
the PRL era. Perhaps the most timeless shop in Nowa Huta
is Cepelix (os. Centrum B bl.1, O-3; open 10:00-18:00, Sat
10:00-13:00, closed Sun). Specialising in Polish folk art and
design, this amazing gift shop is like none other thanks to the
original 50s interior of stylised furnishings, metal chandeliers
and a coffer ceiling with colourful hand-painted ceramic
plates. The character of this place hasnt changed a bit and
as such its a great place to buy sheepskins, lacework, famous
Bolesawiec pottery, and even Nowa Huta souvenirs. Across
the street is a typical milk bar (bar mleczny), one of the
Soviet era worker cafeterias which still thrive in the district.
If you think that cant be topped, take a trip to the other end
of the block to see the hideously outdated interiors of the
famous Stylowa Restaurant - one of the only places to eat
in NH that isnt a milk bar. Once one of the most exclusive
restaurants in town, this place carries on in the same spirit as
the day it opened with an interior that hasnt changed in well
over 30 years. Stop in Saturday after 18:00 (10z cover believe
it or not) to witness pensioned locals strutting their stuff on
the dancefloor to live disco polo sets by a crooning husband
and wife team, and we guarantee you wont be able to leave
before dancing with at least two grannies and having at least
three unwanted conversations. A rare cultural experience,
few places like Stylowa still exist anywhere.QO4.
WANDAS MOUND
Though construction of Nowa Huta began in 1949,
Wandas Mound (Kopiec Wandy) is indisputable evidence
that the history of the area goes back much further. In
fact, the village of Mogia, which Wandas Mound is near
the historical centre of, has been inhabited since 5000
BC without interruption, while archaeologists date the
settlement of Krakws Old Town much later in the 8th
century. Together with Krakus Mound in Podgrze (K-5)
- Krakws other prehistoric earthwork - Wandas Mound
plays a role in one of Polands greatest archaeological
mysteries as the mounds date of construction, builders
and function all remain a subject of great speculation.
Leading theories suggest that both mounds were erected
sometime between the 6th and 10th centuries, by either
the Slavs or the Celts, as burial mounds or pagan cult sites;
perhaps most likely is that they were created as burial
mounds which later became cult sites. Though seemingly
random within the layout of modern Krakw, the location
of the two mounds can hardly be seen as an accident;
when standing atop Wandas Mound on the evening of the
summer solstice, the sun can be seen setting in a direct line
behind Krakus Mound.
Off a major road behind a handy tram stop (station
Kopiec Wandy - tram 21 takes you there, but you must
request the stop), Wandas Mound is a conical earthwork
rising 14m with a winding path to the top, adorned by a
small monument from the 19th century by Jan Matejko
who lived in the Krzesawice Manor nearby. The victim
of general neglect and geographical trespasses, Wandas
Mound today lies just outside the fence of the fearsomely
enormous Sendzimir steel plant, of which unglamorous
glimpses can be seen through the trees. The view to the
southwest is an improvement, where Krakus Mound and
Podgrze can be seen in the distance, though Wandas
Mound unfortunately doesnt offer sweeping views of
the same calibre as Krakws other mounds. The parkland
surrounding the mound is in need of development, not
to mention some proper modern archaeological studies;
behind the mound is a footpath leading to the right
towards one of Krakws hidden 19th century Austrian
fortresses, but, honestly, it just gives us the creeps.QT4,
Near intersection of ul. Ujastek Mogilski and ul. Bardosa.
TOURS
CRAZY GUIDES
Specialising in communist-themed tours of Nowa Huta:
experience Stalins gift to Krakw - one of the worlds
only centrally planned cities - in a genuine Eastern Bloc
Trabant 601 automobile. Considering the large size and
somewhat underwhelming nature of walking around
the district on your own, this may be the best way to
get the most out of a trip to Nowa Huta.Qtel. (+48)
500 09 12 00, www.crazyguides.com. Communism
Tour 139z per person.
April - May 2016
103
Wieliczka
WIELICZKA SALT MINE
A visit to the salt mine begins at the Daniowicza Shaft; buy
your ticket from the adjacent ticket office and check the
outside display for the time of the next guided tour in your
language. Your ticket is valid for two parts of the salt mine:
the Tourist Route, which comprises the first 2 hours, and
the Underground Museum which takes an additional
hour to visit. In between theres an opportunity to take a
break, use the restrooms and even get something to eat
(or escape if thats your preference). However, be aware
that the tour does not end at the restaurant as many
tour guides suggest it does to foreign groups; in fact, they
are obliged to escort you to and through the Underground
Museum (which you have already paid for) as well.
Be prepared to do a lot of walking and bear in mind that
the mine is a constant 15 degrees Centigrade. If you
want to endear the guides, memorise the wonderful
words Szcz Boe (shtench boes-yuh); this essential,
unpronounceable bit of miners lingo effectively means
God be with you and substitutes for Dzie dobry (hello)
when underground.
Archiwum Kopalnia Wieliczka
Krakw is without a doubt one of the most popular

tourist cities in Central Europe, and as youve likely heard,
one of its top tourist attractions is a salt mine actually
located in Wieliczkaa small town about 15km to
the southeast. An astounding 1.2 million people visit
Wieliczka Salt Mine each year (thats one out of every
seven or eight visitors to Krakw), and its hardly a recent
phenomenonpeople have been visiting the salt mine
for centuries with notable guests including Nicolaus
Copernicus, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Fryderyk
Chopin, Ignacy Panderewski, Pope John Paul II and
former US president Bill Clinton. In fact, the first official
tourist trail opened underground here way back in the
mid-19th century. But its not only tourists who come to
visit. So deep is the love of the locals for this place that in
a recent survey, Cracovians voted Wieliczka Salt Mine as
their number one favourite thing about Krakw; again,
not bad for an attraction in another town 15 kilometres
away. Not only is Wieliczka a World Heritage Site, but it
has the distinction of having been included (along with
Krakws Old Town and Kazimierz districts) on UNESCOs
first-ever World Heritage List back in 1978 (you know,
back when being a World Heritage site actually meant
something). Additional accolades aside, this unique
industrial heritage site has been a popular destination
for centuries and if youre visiting Krakw, you should
also consider the short side trip out to Wieliczka, which
in addition to the famous salt mine, also boasts a health
resort, castle and museum.
Your tour begins in earnest by descending 380 wooden

stairs (dont worry, you wont have to climb them) to the
first level 64m underground. Of nine levels, the tour only
takes you to the first three (a max depth of 135m), with
the 3.5kms covered during the 3 hour tour (including both
parts) comprising a mere 1% of this underground realm.
While wandering the timber-re-enforced tunnels youll
gain insight from your guide into the history of the site,
the techniques used to extract the salt and the lives of the
men who worked there. Theres the opportunity to not
only operate a medieval winch used for moving massive
blocks of salt, but also to lick the walls (bring some tequila).
The tour visits numerous ancient chambers and chapels in
which almost everything around you is made from rock
salt, including the tiled floors, chandeliers, sculptures and
stringy stalactites that hang down. The highlight of the
tour is the magnificent 22,000m St. Kingas Chapel dating
from the 17th century. Known for its amazing acoustics,
the chapel features bas-relief wall carvings from the New
Testament done by miners that display an astonishing
amount of depth and realism. After passing a lake that
holds more than 300g of salt per litre, and a hall high
enough to fly a hot-air balloon in (you can take a lift to the
GETTING TO WIELICZKA
Getting to Wieliczka is a cinch with the E4 road east
out of Krakw (aptly named ul. Wieliczka within city
limits) leading straight to the Wieliczka exit in about 15
minutes. Alternatively, a new train service direct from
Krakws main train station to within walking distance
of the mine makes getting to Wieliczka easier than ever
for tourists. Trains leave every 30mins, the journey time
is only about 20mins, and tickets are 3.00z each way.
Wieliczka
WIELICZKA HISTORY
About 20 million years ago, Krakw and the surrounding
area lay at the bottom of a shallow, salty sea.
Unfortunately the beaches are gone, but left behind
were some enormous salt deposits, shifted hundreds of
metres underground by tectonic movements. Though
cheap and universally accessible today, salt was an
extremely valuable commodity centuries ago due to
its ability to preserve food, especially meat. An ancient
sign of wealth, salt was used as currency before there
was money; Roman soldiers who ably performed their
duties were said to be worth their salt and the word
salary comes from the Latin word salarium used to
describe their salty wages.
Salt extraction by boiling water from briny surface
pools in the regions surrounding Krakw can be
traced back to the middle Neolithic era (3500 BC),
but it was the discovery of underground rock salt in
the 13th century that led to the rapid development
of the area. Underground extraction began in
nearby Bochnia in 1252 and was established on
an industrial scale in Wieliczka by the 1280s; soon
both cities had earned municipal rights and by
the end of the 13th century the Cracow Saltworks
was established to manage both mines, with its
headquarters in the Wieliczka Castle complex.
One of the first companies in Europe, the Cracow
Saltworks brought vast wealth to the Polish crown
for the next 500 years until the first partition of
Poland in the 18th century. Its heyday was the
16th and 17th centuries when it employed some
2,000 people, production exceeded 30,000 tonnes
and the Saltworks accounted for one third of the
revenue of the state treasury.
Under Austrian occupation (1772-1918) production
was further increased by mechanising the mining
works with steam and later electric machinery, and
the first tourist route was opened. By the 20th century
however, over-exploitation and neglect of necessary
protection works had begun to destabilise the mines
condition and the market value of salt no longer made
it a viable enterprise. In 1964 the extraction of rock
salt was halted in Wieliczka and in 1996 exploitation
of the salt deposit was stopped altogether. Despite
the significant hazards of the day (flooding, cave-ins,
explosive gas), over the course of seven centuries 26
access shafts and 180 fore-shafts connecting individual
levels had been drilled in Wieliczka. 2,350 chambers
had been excavated with over 240km of tunnels
reaching a maximum depth of 327m underground.
Due to its unique saline microclimate and innovative
engineering, the mine has been well preserved and
is today used for historical, medicinal and tourist
purposes.
balcony at the top for 10z), the first part of the tour ends at
the underground restaurant and souvenir stands, at which
point you should be instructed on your two options: how
to exit (option A) or where and when to join the second
part of the tour (option B). If this option B is unmentioned
or unclear, inform your guide that you also want to see the
Underground Museum and ask them how to do so.
At your leisure you should be able to find your way past

the restaurant and restrooms, beyond which youll find the
queue for the tiny, nerve-wracking, high-speed lift that
shoots you back up to the surface (option A), and separate
area to the right for those that want to continue on to
the Underground Museum (option B, which we heartily
recommend). Your original guide should admit you into
the museum exhibition which comprises an additional
16 chambers over 1.5kms packed full of artwork, artefacts
and mining equipment which your guide will elaborate
on. Perhaps the most fascinating and informative part of
the Wieliczka experience, the highlights of these beautiful
exhibits include two paintings by famous 19th century
Polish artist Jan Matejko, and an entire room full of sparkling
salt crystals. Upon completion your guide leads you back
to the ancient lift which takes you above ground back to
where you started.Qul. Daniowicza 10, Wieliczka, tel.
(+48) 12 278 73 02, www.kopalnia.pl. Open 08:00 17:00. Admission 79/64z; 84/64z for non-Polish tours;
taking photos is an additional 10z. In addition to the
popular Tourist Route described above, several other
routes are offered including a handicap-accessible route,
a route for children, and the Miners Route (open 10:00
- 14:30) - an interactive tour in which tourists are assigned
a role by the foreman/tour guide and experience the daily
routines, rituals and secrets of working underground.
Archiwum Kopalnia Wieliczka
Auschwitz
The infamous Auschwitz I entrance gate.
For centuries the town of Owicim was a quiet backwater

community, largely bypassed by world events. That
changed with WWII when Owicim, known as Auschwitz
under German occupation, became the chosen site of
the largest death camp in the Third Reich. Between 1.1
million and 1.5 million people were exterminated here,
etching the name of Auschwitz forever into the history
books and countless films, documentaries, books and
survivor accounts have since burned it into the collective
consciousness.
Visitors to Krakw are faced with asking themselves
whether or not they will make the effort to visit Auschwitz.
It is a difficult question. There are few who would say
they actually want to visit Auschwitz, though many are
compelled to do so for their own reasons. For those of us
who dont feel so compelled, its easy to give reasons for not
going: not having enough time, already knowing as much
as we need or want to know about it, not feeling personally
connected enough to the site or the history to need to visit,
or being uncomfortable about the prospect of visiting a site
of such emotional resonance at the same time as hundreds
of other tourists. Having been there, we can tell you that all
of these explanations for avoiding Auschwitz are perfectly
reasonable until youve actually visited the site; youll be
hard-pressed to find anyone who has made the trip and
still argues against going.
The Auschwitz Museum and tour present one of the most
horrific acts in human history with a level of tact, passion,
poignancy and professionalism that is so profound, it
almost makes as lasting an impression as the site itself.
Without being heavy-handed, the history of the site is

presented in all of its contexts and guests are perhaps
spared from fully surrendering to their emotions only by
the sheer relentlessness of the information. No matter
how much you think you know on the subject, the
perspective gained by visiting is incomparable. Whether
or not you choose to go to Auschwitz is up to you to
decide. However it should be understood that Auschwitz
is not a site of Jewish concern, Polish concern, German
concern, gypsy concern, historical concern... It is a site
of human concern. As such, we believe everyone should
visit.
VISITING AUSCHWITZ
Arriving at the Auschwitz Museum can be chaotic and
confusing thanks to large crowds, numerous ticket
windows with different designations, and excessive
signage that contradicts itself. This can be avoided by
going as part of an organised group tour, organised by
a local tour company. If you are visiting independently
however, or in a small group, find the queue for the desk
marked Individual Guests. From April 1st (peak season)
the museum makes it obligatory to buy a ticket and
become part of a 3.5hr guided tour unless you get
there before 10:00 (difficult to do from Krakw) or after
15:00 - during which times it is possible to visit for free
on your own. Be that as it may, we strongly recommend
the guided tour, which is excellent, profound and
professional; afterwards youll find it hard to imagine
getting as much out of your visit had you explored the
grounds on your own.
April - May 2016
107
Auschwitz
GETTING TO AUSCHWITZ
Lying 75km west of Krakw, there are several ways

to get to Owicim/Auschwitz. The easiest may be
signing on for a tour organised by a multitude of
Krakw-based tour companies (like Cracow City Tours
or Cracow Tours) to ensure everything goes smoothly;
providing transportation, tickets and general guidance,
the organisational help of these outfits can eliminate
significant confusion upon arrival.
For those going the DIY route, frequent buses depart for
Owicim from the main bus station (ul. Bosacka 18, E-1);
most stop at the Auschwitz Museum entrance, but not
all, so make sure beforehand otherwise you may end up
at the Owicim bus station which is at the other end of
town. The journey takes 1hr 20-40mins and costs 12z.
Frequent, almost hourly trains also run between
Krakw and Owicim, with a journey time of 1hr
45mins - 1hr 55mins and a cost of about 8.50z; note,
however, that early trains to Owicim can be eerily
crowded, particularly on weekends.
The Owicim train station (ul. Powstacw lskich 22)
lies strategically between Auschwitz I and Auschwitz
II-Birkenau, which are 3km apart. Local bus numbers
24-29 stop at Auschwitz I; buy a ticket (under 3z) from
the nearest kiosk. Museum buses regularly shuttle
visitors between the two camps, or catch a cab for 15z.
Waiting minibus taxis run by Malarek Tour (+48 605 31
50 77) can take you back to Krakw from either camp a group of eight would pay about 30-40z/person.
JEWISH MUSEUM
AUSCHWITZ JEWISH MUSEUM
& SYNAGOGUE
If you have more time to spend in Owicim, head
to this historic synagogue (one of three surviving
in the centre of Owicim) for more information on
the towns Jewish heritage, including a permanent
exhibition on Jewish life there before World War II.
Located near Owicims market square 3km from the
Auschwitz museum, the centre offers specially tailored
programmes for those plan their visits in advance,
and theres a cafe here with a sweet roof terrace in the
warmer months.QPl. Ks. Jana Skarbka 5, Owicim,
tel. (+48) 33 844 70 02, www.ajcf.org. Open 10:00
- 18:00. Closed Sat. Admission 10/6z, family ticket
15z, kids 6 and under free.
All visits must now be booked in advance through the

website visit.auschwitz.org, even if you plan to explore the
site on your own. Tour departure times change frequently,
but tours in English depart most frequently, and there are
also regularly scheduled tours in German, French, Italian,
Polish and Spanish. The museum makes a big effort to
provide the tour in the native language of each guest, and
tours in languages other than those just mentioned can be
easily arranged if done in advance through the website.
After purchasing your ticket and headphones, your
experience typically begins with a harrowing 20-minute film
of narrated footage captured by the Soviet Army when they
arrived to liberate the camp in January 1945. The film (not
recommended for children under 14) is not guaranteed yearround however, in which case your tour of the camp begins
straightaway with a live guide speaking into a microphone
which you hear through your headphones.
Visiting Auschwitz is a full days excursion so prepare
accordingly (comfortable shoes). The guided tour of
Auschwitz I takes around 2 hours, so make sure youve eaten
breakfast. After completing the tour of the first camp, there
is only a short break before the bus leaves for AuschwitzBirkenau II; in order to stay with the same tour guide, you
need to catch that bus, so it would be wise to pack some food
for the day (though there is some limited food available at
the museum). The tour of the second camp is shorter, lasting
1-1.5 hours. Buses regularly depart back to Auschwitz I, or
you can walk or catch a cab to the train station 1.5km away.
At Auschwitz I there are restrooms (have change available), a
fast food bar and restaurant; there are also restroom facilities
at Auschwitz II-Birkenau. If exploring Auschwitz without a
guide it is highly recommended that you dont get there later
than 15:30, and that you pick up the official guidebook (5z)
whose map of the camp is crucial to avoid missing any of
the key sites; these can be picked up at any of the numerous
bookshops at both sites.Qul. Winiw Owicimia 20,
Owicim, tel. (+48) 33 844 81 00, www.auschwitz.org.
Auschwitz I open 08:00 - 17:00. From May 08:00 - 18:00;
last entrance 1hr before closing. Auschwitz II - Birkenau
open 08:00 - 18:00. From May 08:00 - 19:00; last entrance
1.5hrs before closing. An individual ticket for a foreign
language guided tour of both camps costs 45/35z. Tours
for groups range from 300-450z depending on size. The
film costs 4/3z. Official guidebook 5z. Admission without
a guide (when possible) to either camp is free.
Mounds of personal belongings attest to the volume of victims to

pass through Auschwitz
Auschwitz
The remaining blocks are dedicated to the specific
suffering of individual nations, including a block
dedicated in memory of the Roma (gypsy) people who
perished. The tour concludes with the gruesome gas
chamber and crematoria, whose two furnaces were
capable of burning 350 corpses daily. The gallows used
to hang camp commandant Rudolf Hoss in 1947 stands
outside.
AUSCHWITZ I
Your tour of Auschwitz I begins by passing beneath a
replica of the infamous Arbeit Macht Frei (Work Makes You
Free) entrance gate. [The original sign was actually made
by inmates of the camp on Nazi orders and is no longer on
display after it was stolen in December 2009 and found in
pieces in northern Poland a few days after the theft.] From
the entrance gate, the prescribed tour route leads past
the kitchens, where the camp orchestra once played as
prisoners marched to work, before starting in earnest inside
Block 4. Here an overview of the creation and reality behind
the worlds most notorious concentration camp is given,
with exhibits including original architectural sketches for
gas chambers, tins of Zyklon B used for extermination and
mugshots of inmates. Most disturbing is over seven tonnes
of human hair once destined for German factories, which
does much to demonstrate the scale and depravity of the
Nazi death machine.
Transported to Auschwitz in cattle trucks, newly arrived
prisoners were stripped of their personal property, some
of which is displayed in Block 5 including mountains of
artificial limbs, glasses, labelled suitcases, shaving kits
and, most affectingly, childrens shoes. Block 6 examines
the daily life of prisoners with collections of photographs,
artists drawings and tools used for hard labour while the
next set of barracks recreates the living conditions endured
by prisoners: bare rooms with sackcloth spread out on the
floor, and rows of communal latrines, one decorated with a
poignant mural depicting two playful kittens.
AUSCHWITZ II - BIRKENAU
Having completed the long tour of Auschwitz I, some
visitors decline the opportunity to visit Auschwitz II Birkenau, however its here that the impact of Auschwitz
can be fully felt through the sheer size, scope and solitude
of the second camp. Added in 1942 Birkenau contained
300 barracks and buildings on a vast site that covered
175 hectares. Soon after the Wannsee Conference on
January 20, 1942, when Hitler and his henchmen rubberstamped the wholesale extermination of European Jews,
it grew to become the biggest and most savage of all the
Nazi death factories, with up to 100,000 prisoners held
there in 1944.
The purpose-built train tracks leading directly into the
camp still remain. Here a grim selection process took
place with 70% of those who arrived herded directly into
gas chambers. Those selected as fit for slave labour lived
in squalid, unheated barracks where starvation, disease
and exhaustion accounted for countless lives. With the
Soviets advancing, the Nazis attempted to hide all traces
of their crimes. Today little remains, with all gas chambers
having been dynamited and living quarters levelled. Climb
the tower of the main gate for a full impression of the
complexs size. Directly to the right lie wooden barracks
used as a quarantine area, while across on the left hand side
lie numerous brick barracks which were home to the penal
colony and also the womens camp. At the far end of the
camp lie the mangled remains of the crematoria, as well
as a bleak monument unveiled in 1967. After a comparably
brief guided tour of the camp, visitors are left to wander
and reflect on their own before catching the return bus to
Auschwitz I.
Block 11, otherwise known as The Death Block, is arguably

the most difficult part of the tour. Outside, the Wall of Death
- against which thousands of prisoners were shot by the SS
- has been turned into a memorial festooned with flowers; it
was here that Pope Benedict XVI prayed during his groundbreaking visit in 2006. Within the terrifying, claustrophobic
cellars of Block 11 the Nazis conducted their experiments
with poison gas in 1941 on Soviet prisoners. Here the cell of
Father Maximilian Kolbe, the Polish priest starved to death
after offering his life to save another inmate, is marked with
a small memorial, and tiny standing cells measuring 90 x
90 cm - where up to four prisoners were held for indefinite
amounts of time - remain intact.
April - May 2016
109
Tarnw
Tarnw market square and Town Hall. Photo by Krzysztof Gzyl, courtesy of Tarnw Tourist Information Centre
Eighty kilometres east of Krakw lies the charming and

hospitable city of Tarnw. Maopolskas second city by size,
Tarnw is absolutely dwarfed by Krakw but features many
of the same cultural and architectural charms without the
crushing crowds, inflated prices and occasional feelings of
herd mentality that unfortunately come along with a tourist
market the size of Krakws. On the contrary, Tarnw offers
tourists the comforts of a small town with a long history and
the cultural intrigue and activities of a much bigger city. In
addition to a well-preserved medieval Old Town - which
includes a glorious Cathedral, a cute market square and
Town Hall, and many pedestrian avenues - in Tarnw visitors
will discover several unique and worthwhile museums,
wooden churches, historic cemeteries, castle ruins and a
scenic overlook, as well as dozens of artistic and historical
monuments at every turn. Those with a special interest in
Tarnws Jewish heritage will still find traces of it today in
the citys small, but evocative Jewish district and large
Jewish Cemetery. While the towns nightlife may not have
the sizzle of Krakw, there are still plenty of bars, cafes and
restaurants where youll find it easy to meet friendly local
folks who are proud of their city and eager to present a
good impression to foreigners. All told its enough to easily
warrant spending at least one night, if not more, as Tarnw
also makes a superb base for exploring the wealth of other
nearby sites in the region, including the Castle at Dbno,
the folk art of Zalipie, and the salt mines of Bochnia. Youll
find more information on Tarnw and all the surrounding
area has to offer on our website (tarnow.inyourpocket.
com), but make sure you also pay a visit to the fine folks at
the Tourist Information Office when you arrive and pick up
a copy of IYPs special Tarnw mini-guide.
EAT & DRINK

CAFE TRAMWAJ
Its been over 70 years since streetcars graced the streets of
Tarnw, but this antique tram parked on Plac Sobieskiego
takes tourists and locals back in time to Tarnws golden
era, when electrified public transport was a symbol of the
citys stature. Capturing the spirit of the old days (the good
ones, mind you) this wood-trimmed, authentically furnished
tram car full of sepia postcards and inter-war souvenirs is
the perfect place to meet for coffee, a slice of cake and a
conversation. Theres ice cream, a mini-library with books on
the region, and its also a free wifi hotspot, which is hardly
taken for granted in this town. If you can score one of the
limited number of tables, youll be happy you did.QD4, Pl.
Sobieskiego 2, tel. (+48) 503 37 23 29. Open 06:30 - 21:00,
Sat 08:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. 6NGSW
SOPRANO
This is bona fide fine dining, from the exceptional Italian
cuisine down to the gold tablecloths. Unfortunately the
best seats in the house are in the lush seasonal garden where you can watch the chef at work with the brick, woodfired pizza oven - but that shouldnt stop you from making
this your dinner destination in lousy weather as well. The
soups are delicious and come with fresh olive bread, while
our beef cheeks were a worthy follow-up. Probably the
most money you can spend on a meal out in Tarnw, and
still a heck of a bargain.QC5, ul. Mocickiego 6, tel. (+48)
14 621 09 09, www.soprano-tarnow.pl. Open 10:00 22:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 23:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. (20-48z).
TUGBSW
Tarnw
SIGHTSEEING
CATHEDRAL
Dating from the 14th century with major additions and
rebuilds in the 15th and 19th centuries, the Neo-Gothic
Cathedral of the Nativity of the Virgin Mary, just northwest
of the Rynek and one of the oldest brick buildings in the city,
must rate as one of the most impressive parish churches in
Poland. Of note is the 16th-century portal, the impressive
several-metre-long monuments to the Tarnowski and
Ostrogski families, a number of extraordinary paintings and
the impressive, 72-metre tower, a handy point of reference
when getting lost in one of Tarnws many rambling
back streets. Some nice recent additions are also evident,
including the fabulously ornate sculpted metal doors on
the southern side of the building, and a large monument
of Pope John Paul II outside the entrance.QD4, Pl.
Katedralny, tel. (+48) 14 621 45 01, www.katedra.
tarnow.opoka.org.pl. Open 09:30 - 12:00, 13:00 - 17:30
(except Sundays). No visiting during mass please.
DIOCESAN MUSEUM
To paraphrase the late John Paul II, the Church needs art
to better understand what lies inside the soul of man, and
Tarnws superb Diocesan Museum, established in 1888,
does a very good job at doing just that. An astonishing
collection of religious art from the 15th century onwards,
housed inside an equally wonderful ensemble of 16thcentury houses, the museums most precious artefact
is the original alter from St. Leonards church in nearby
Lipnica Murowana, moved here for preservation reasons at
the insistence of UNESCO. Other highlights include some
truly breathtaking Gothic triptychs and sculptures from
Maopolska, a collection of church fabrics from the Middle
Ages and a few pieces of 19th-century religious folk art. A
marvellous and highly recommended experience.QD4,
Pl. Katedralny 6, tel. (+48) 14 621 99 93, www.muzeum.
diecezja.tarnow.pl. Open 10:00 - 12:00, 13:00 - 15:00; Sun
09:00 - 12:00, 13:00 - 14:00; closed Mon. Admission free.
TARNW DISTRICT MUSEUM - MAIN BRANCH
The new headquarters of the many branches of the Tarnw
District Museum, located in an historical building right on
the Rynek, this museum currently hosts rotating temporary
exhibits, and is the permanent home Tarnws collection of
fragments of the Transylvania Panorama - a lost masterpiece
painted on an epic scale depicting local hero Jzef Bems
victory at the Battle of Sibiu during the Hungarian Revolution
of 1848. Displayed in Lww, Budapest and then Warsaw,
regrettably in 1928 the enormous panoramic canvas was cut
into 100 pieces, the majority of which have yet to be recovered.
A pet project of the Tarnw District Museum, the museum
currently possesses 15 out of the 36 fragments which have
been located.QD4, Rynek 3, tel. (+48) 14 621 21 49, www.
muzeum.tarnow.pl. Open 09:00 - 15:00, Thu 09:00 - 17:00,
Sun 10:00 - 14:00; closed Mon, Sat. From May open 09:00 17:00; Wed, Fri 09:00 - 15:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00; closed
Mon. Admission 8/5z, family ticket 16z; Sun free for the
permanent exhibition (Transylvania Panorama). N
GETTING TO TARNW
Only 80km east of Krakw, Tarnw is most easily
reached by road - a hassle-free drive down the new
A4 highway that takes less than an hour. Buses from
Krakw to Tarnw run about once an hour, with the
first leaving as early as 06:45 and the last bus back to
Krakw departing at 21:35; the journey takes between
1hr 15mins and 2hrs. Tarnw is also served by some
30 or so trains every day from Krakw, with a journey
time of between 90 and 145 minutes depending on
whether you take a local or express train.
MARKETS
Located at the intersection of several trade routes,

Tarnw has been home to a large marketplace since
medieval times. In addition to the actual market square,
the city has had an open-air market just south of the
Rynek at the bottom of the Great Stairs for centuries.
Known locally as the Burek, this area actually extends
for several blocks and includes several small squares
and pavilions selling all manner of goods, from food
and flowers to clothing and cosmetics. Whatever it is,
whether its worth anything or not, you can get it at
the Burek - and a trip here is the quintessential Tarnw
shopping experience.
The name Burek officially refers to the fruit, produce,
meat and dairy market on Plac Bema, which was
recently modernised - dont miss the charming
Organ Grinder (pictured). Beyond it, however, youll
also find the large Hala Targowa (or Hala Miejska as
its also called) clothing market as well as some other
random merchants hawking their wares in the vicinity.
Have some change and small bills handy, as asking
the vendors to break a 100z note is unlikely to win
any smiles. Opening hours vary and some vendors
open and close as they please, but the general rule is
to get there early, as trade dries up by mid-afternoon.
April - May 2016
111
Tarnw
TOURIST INFORMATION
TOURIST INFORMATION CENTRE
One of the most helpful offices in all of PL, here (and on
their multi-lingual website) youll find a wide range of
free information on Tarnw and the surrounding region,
free internet (browse away), bicycle rental, souvenirs,
and even accommodation upstairs. If youre interested
in a gadget-led tour, theres the Wooden Architecture
App, nine different audio tours, and a GPS guide. The
knowledgeable and enthusiastic English-speaking staff
can give you whatever additional information or advice
you cant find here, so dont be shy.QD4, Rynek 7, tel.
(+48) 14 688 90 90, www.tarnow.travel. Open 08:00
- 18:00, Sat 09:00 - 17:00; closed Sun. From May open
08:00 - 20:00; Sat, Sun 09:00 - 17:00.
RYNEK & THE OLD TOWN
Photo by Krzysztof Gzyl, courtesy of Tarnw Tourist Information Centre
Retaining its original medieval layout of latticed streets

and central market square (Rynek) reached by stairways
from a lower, surrounding loop (formerly the city walls
and defensive towers), Tarnws exemplary Old Town
began life in the 14th century, although most of what
now stands dates from later on. Its crowning glory is
the Rynek, a wide-open plaza surrounded on all four
sides by fine Renaissance merchant houses dating from
the 16th to the 18th century.
At the centre of the Rynek stands the Town Hall, a
lovely 15th-century building originally constructed in
the Gothic style and remodelled at the end of the 16th
century in a classic Renaissance manner, topped off
with an idiosyncratic 30m tower from which Tarnws
hejna - a short traditional melody - is played every day
at 12:00. Small compared to its vast Cracovian cousin, the
Old Town is still interesting enough to warrant a good
investigation, and includes a fairly well preserved Jewish
quarter to the east, one remaining defensive tower and a
pleasant pedestrian street, hugging its northern edge and
featuring several interesting buildings as well as a number
of monuments. In the spring and summer the Rynek
comes to life with tables and chairs from the multitude of
cafes and bars (and surprisingly few restaurants) lining it
and has a warm and welcoming appeal.QD4.
ETHNOGRAPHIC MUSEUM
As well as highlighting local
ethnographic
traditions,
this better than average
collection includes a large
celebration of Roma (Gypsy)
culture, which is allegedly
the only such collection in
Europe. A truly fascinating,
if slightly dated, exhibition
tracing Roma culture in
Poland from its beginnings
in the 15th century to
their fate at the hands of
the Nazis and beyond, the three rooms that make up the
exhibition include some excellent maps, models, costumes
and photographs; with about 350 Roma living in the
Tarnw area, their culture is still very much alive locally. In
the museums back garden youll find several traditionally
painted gypsy caravans.QC5, ul. Krakowska 10, tel. (+48)
14 622 06 25, www.muzeum.tarnow.pl. Open 09:00 15:00, Thu 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00; closed Mon,
Sat. From May open 09:00 - 17:00; Wed, Fri 09:00 - 15:00;
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00; closed Mon. Admission 8/5z,
family ticket 16z; Sun free. N
TOWN HALL MUSEUM (RATUSZ)
Worth a visit for a peep inside the Town Hall alone, this
extraordinary collection over two floors includes glass,
porcelain, silver, weaponry, and the most extensive
collection of 18th-century Sarmatian portraits in
the country. Sarmatism, if youre wondering, was a
beguiling infusion of lifestyle, culture and ideology that
predominated the Polish nobility from the 17th to 19th
century. Based on the mistaken and rather amusing belief
that Poles were descended from a loose confederation of
ancient Iranian tribes, Polish Sarmatism evolved over the
centuries from a set of values based on pacifism into a fullblown warrior philosophy that endorsed horseback riding,
outrageous behaviour and a propensity for lavish Oriental
clothing and huge, handlebar moustaches. The Town Hall
Tower can also be ascended if arranged ahead of time, and
offers panoramic views for a small extra fee.QD4, Rynek
1, tel. (+48) 14 621 21 49, www.muzeum.tarnow.pl.
Open 09:00 - 15:00, Thu 09:00 - 17:00, Sun 10:00 - 14:00.
Closed Mon, Sat. From May open 09:00 - 17:00; Wed,
Fri 09:00 - 15:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon.
Museum admission 8/5z, family ticket 16z, Sun free for
permanent exhibition; tower admission 10/5z; museum
and tower 15/8z. UN
MUSEUM TICKETS
Note that all Tarnw museums are free on Sundays,
while on other days of the week a special sweetheart
ticket good for the Town Hall, District Museum, and
Ethnography Museum is available for only 16/10z.
Leisure
Always a good view around Wawel, in summer the Wisa riverbanks below the castle become a popular sunbathers spot.
While drinking in cafes (p.56) and beer gardens (p.65) is

probably the number one local leisure activity, our Leisure
section is geared more for those looking for outdoor
activities on a beautiful day, or how to stay active on an
ugly one. Generally, Cracovians are spoiled with recreation
opportunities, if only for the fact that the Old Town is a joy
to stroll around when the sun is out and features several
unique green spaces, particularly the Planty (p.79) and
Bonia (p.128). Krakws unique and mysterious earthwork
mounds also provide interesting outdoor sightseeing
opportunities near the city centre - check out Krakus
Mound in Podgrze (p.96) or Kociuszko Mound in
Salwator (p.82); or go deep into the woods of Las Wolski to
find Pisudski Mound, as well as the Zoo (p.116).
BIKE RENTAL
COOL TOUR COMPANY
The biggest bike rental in Krakw offers you a range
of options year round, including road bikes and beach
cruisers, bikes for kids and even olde school penny farthing
or modern Dutch Stepper bikes: 10z/hr, 40z for 5 hours,
or 50z for the whole day. Or go for the tandem for double
the price. 100z and ID deposit required. 4hr city bike
tours in English also depart from here every day at 12:00
(90/80z); from May tours will depart at 10:00 and 15:00.
cooltourcompany.com. Open 09:00 - 16:00, Fri, Sat, Sun
09:00 - 18:00.
CRUISING KRAKW
Bike rentals 25-50z for 3 hours; each additional hour
5-20z - prices depend on the type of bike. Bike tours also
arranged daily, no reservation necessary, just meet at the
Mickiewicz monument on the market square at 12:00.
Segway tours also now available from the address listed.
QC2, ul. Sawkowska 6, tel. (+48) 514 55 60 17, www.
cruisingkrakow.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
BOAT RENTAL
& RIVER CRUISES
In spring and summer the Wisa River is abuzz with all
manner of boats, gondolas and water trams. Along the
boulevards beneath Wawel Castle (B-6) youll encounter
barkers offering short sightseeing cruises along Polands
longest waterway. Use them as an alternative way to
reach Podgrze, Tyniec Abbey or the foot of Las Wolski, or
simply as an enjoyable way to get a different perspective
on some of Krakws sights. Most boats can also be hired
privately.
AQUA FUN
Regular river cruises between Bielany-Zwierzyniec and
Kazimierz abroad a stylish gondola (30mins, 25/20z; 1hr,
35/30z) or proper boat with refreshments and an upper
deck (1hr, 35/25z). Both gondola and boat rides run from
11:00 to 18:00 approximately every half hour, however
rides dont leave until a sufficient number of people are
Leisure
on-board. All are speaker-equipped with an audio tour
and can be rented privately. Night cruises and private
trips with live folk or klezmer music can also be arranged
in advance.QB6, Bulwar Czerwieski Marina (near
Grunwaldzki Bridge), tel. (+48) 604 29 90 00, www.
statek-krakow.pl.
WATER EQUIPMENT RENTAL
Water equipment rental for a variety of sports and
persuasions, including a 12-person catamaran, 4-person
motorboats, canoe and kayak rental (20z/hr), as well as
4-person pedalos (30z/hr). Kayaking tours also organised.
Interested parties should always call in advance.QH3,
SKS Nadwilaska Marina near ul. Kociuszki 16, tel.
(+48) 606 22 55 55, www.rejspowisle.pl. Open 10:00
- 18:00.
BOWLING & BILLIARDS

PLAC NOWY 1
Located in the basement of a modern building right on
Plac Nowy, this is the nicest bowling alley in Krakw. With
only six lanes, the space is intimate rather, so reservations
are wise. The bar puts an emphasis on regional Polish
microbrews, and you can order food from the restaurant
upstairs. Prices for one lane for one hour (max 8 people) are
55, 75 or 95z depending on the day of the week and time
of day.QD6, Pl. Nowy 1, tel. (+48) 12 442 77 11, www.
placnowy1.pl. Open 14:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 14:00 - 02:00,
Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00.
THE STAGE
Probably Krakws most atmospheric billiards club, The
Stage is much more than just a pool hall and bar. In the
evenings this laid-back hangout often hosts events
including concerts, cabarets, and karaoke with a live band
as locals rack em up on the seven handsome billiards
tables in front of the street-side windows. Conference and
company events also organised.QB1, ul. obzowska 3,
tel. (+48) 12 681 63 85, www.thestage.pl. Open 13:00
- 01:00. Cost of a table ranges between 15-23z/hr
depending on the time of day.
INDOOR ATTRACTIONS
KRAKW WATER PARK (PARK WODNY)
The huge indoor pool complex includes 800m of water
slides, dragon and pirate play areas, massage fountains,
climbing walls, wave machines, and other in-water
activities, Probably the thing your kid will remember most
about Krakw, you might not have such a bad time yourself
with access to the saunas, jacuzzis, a fitness centre and a
pool-side cafe from which you can watch your little terrors
dunk each other. Prices are 20-26z for one hour, 41-59z for
day access (recommended - one hour just isnt enough);
note that saunas and fitness centre arean additional charge,
and that on weekends this place is absolutely packed.
QL1, ul. Dobrego Pasterza 126, tel. (+48) 12 616 31 90,
www.parkwodny.pl. Open 08:00 - 22:00.
April - May 2016
115
Leisure
OUTDOOR ATTRACTIONS
BOTANICAL GARDEN
Covering almost 10 hectares, Polands oldest botanical
gardens date from 1783 and offer a decidedly relaxing
daytime escape from the surrounding city. Extensive
flora-filled paths wind between fountains, herb and
rose gardens, lily-padded ponds, and a 250-year-old oak
tree - the last remnant of primaeval forests which once
covered the entire region. A humid greenhouse (open
10:00 - 18:00; closed Fri) hides all manner of exotic flora,
including a macabre collection of carnivorous plants,
while outdoor classical music concerts now take place
regularly. A great place for a romantic rendezvous or
just finding some peace and quiet.QJ2, ul. Kopernika
27, tel. (+48) 12 663 36 35, www.ogrod.uj.edu.pl.
Open from April 10, 09:00 - 19:00. Admission 8/5z,
15z family ticket. N
KRAKW ZOO
First opened in 1929, this lovely zoological garden has
grown from a small menagerie to a 20 hectare park
offering visitors the chance to see nearly 1500 animals
of almost 300 species, but its still manageable in size.
Most of the exhibits are outdoors in the natural setting
of the surrounding Wolski Forest - making this a great
sunny day activity - and theres surprisingly little to
get depressed about. Among the rare, exotic and
endangered species youll see are Indian elephants,
pygmy hippopotami, South American sea lions, giraffes,
camels, dwarf caimans and a surprisingly impressive
array of brightly-plumed pheasants (our favourite).
Theres also a petting zoo, and some unavoidable
snack bars. Bus 134 leaves about every 30mins from
Stadion Cracovia (ul. Kauy, H-3) and drops you off
at the entrance. Open 09:00 - 15:00 at press time, but
hours will be extended as the days get longer.Qul.
Kasy Oszczdnoci Miasta Krakowa 14 (Krowodrza),
tel. (+48) 12 425 35 51, www.zoo-krakow.pl. Last
entrance 1 hour before closing. Admission 18/10z.
STANISAW LEM SCIENCE GARDEN
A fun, interactive, educational park for kids named after
the famous Polish sci-fi author. The 7 hectare science
park features different stations engaging kids in optical
illusions and the laws of physics, plus a geological
garden, a garden of fragrances and a labyrinth.
Explanations at each station are in English and Polish,
and guides (English) are available for an additional 25z
if you call three days in advance. Reserve 90mins to visit
the entire park and get there via trams 1 or 14, getting
off at M1 Al. Pokoju; alternatively, a cab from the centre
is about 25z.QAl. Pokoju 68 (Czyyny), tel. (+48) 12
346 12 85, www.ogroddoswiadczen.pl. Open from
April 22, 08:30 - 19:00; Sat, Sun 10:00 - 19:00. Last
entrance 30mins before closing. Admission 10/7z,
children under 7 free. Cash only. Y
LASER PARK
Run amuck in the industrial wasteland around Schindlers
Factory known as Zabocie dodging laser beams and zapping
adversaries. Laser Arena uses a computer system to register
hits from the virtual bullets in a safe, simulated gunfight
within this highly unique setting. Prices are complex and as
follows: Mon-Thu 25/20z for 30mins, 40/35z for 60mins;
Fri-Sun 35z for 30mins, 55z for 60mins. Groups (10 players
minimum) Mon-Thu 400z, Fri-Sun 600z.QI4, ul. Zabocie
20, tel. (+48) 12 296 01 30, www.laserpark.pl. Open 12:00 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 23:00, Sat 13:00 - 23:00, Sun 13:00 - 22:00.
LET ME OUT
Escape games have become popular all across Europe, and
now Poland as well. Not for the claustrophobic, this exciting
challenge involves being willfully locked in a room and
using the clues around you to solve a series of puzzles, find
the key and free yourself as the clock ticks down from 45
minutes. Can you use your logic, problem-solving skills and
a bit of teamwork to escape in time? Let Me Out Krakw
offers three completely different rooms to choose from
for groups of 2-4 people; price 99z per group, per game.
QA2, ul. Jzefa Szujskiego 6/4, tel. (+48) 788 55 61 50,
www.letmeout.pl. Open 11:00 - 22:00.
LOST SOULS ALLEY
This year-round haunted house just off of the market square
takes you on a terrifying tour through a nightmare gallery of
sickening situations and encroaching peril. Participants must
work together to make their way through ten rooms (most
of which are locked and you must find a key to free yourself
and escape) of a creepy ramshackle apartment full of bloodspattered beds, hacked-off limbs, moaning invalids and
reaching hands. This isnt a campy, Hollywood creature-feature
brand of horror, but a gruesome asylum full of tortured patients,
and twisted tenants; the scares are less of the pop-and-shock
variety, and more effecting of psychological dread as you
frantically fumble your way forward knowing that terrifying
shadows are closing in on you from all sides. Incredibly welldone and effectively horrifying, as soon as you enter you just
want to make it to the end. Doing so takes about 20mins, and
we recommend this haunted house for anyone 15 and over
who loves a serious scare. The best way to arrange a visit is to
call in advance. Discreetly hidden through a passageway off
the main street, past a strip club, and up a creepy set of stairs
on the first floor, visit if you dare.QC3, ul. Floriaska 6, tel.
(+48) 666 98 60 69, www.lostsoulsalley.com. Open 12:00 20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 21:00. Prices range from 18-30z/per
person depending on how many are in the group.
WRT KARTING
Spin your wheels around this 250 metre indoor go-karting
course north of Nowa Huta. You can get there by taking bus
502 from Dworzec Gwny to Wilicka, then transferring to
bus 138, getting off at Nowolipki (note that you may have
to request this stop).Qul. Nowolipki 3 (entrance from
ul. Makuszynskiego, Bieczyce), tel. (+48) 509 43 70
61, www.wrt-karting.pl. Open 15:00 - 22:00, Fri 14:00 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00.
Leisure
SPA & BEAUTY
CHAIYO THAI MASSAGE CENTRE
Improve blood and limphatic
circulation, release physical and mental
tension, strengthen the immune
system, improve joint flexibility and
remove toxins from your body with
an authentic Thai massage, performed
solely by highly qualified Thai
masseuses trained at Wat Pho Temple in Bangkok. The
offer includes classical Thai massage, herbal compresses,
oil massages, feet and legs reflexology, back, shoulder
and head massages, and more. Receive a 10% discount
when you present In Your Pocket.QE4, ul. Dietla 103/2,
tel. (+48) 12 422 65 49, www.tajskimasaz.pl. Open
12:00 - 22:00. Massages 100-300z.
BOOK-A-BALANCE MOBILE SPA
This mobile spa service brings the pampering straight to
you. Qualified and experienced professionals arrive at your
apartment or hotel room with all the necessary equipment
to make you feel like royalty, ensuring that you literally
dont have to lift a finger beyond making the call. Offering
a range of massages (130-310z) and beauty treatments
(100-160z).Qtel. (+48) 503 63 39 03, www.book-abalance.pl. Available 7 days a week between 08:00 and
22:00.
THAI SMILE MASSAGE
Treat yourself to a range of therapeutic Thai massages
performed by certified masseuses that will leave you
feeling energised and balanced. If youve never had
an authentic Thai massage, this is your chance - its
an incredible experience, and can be a fun thing to
do with a friend, partner or family member. Most
massages are done in loose, non-constraining
clothes to make you as comfortable as possible, and
incorporate aspects of Thai traditional medicine,
acupressure, yoga and even Buddhism. Give it a try
and discover the wonder of getting an invigorating
full body workout without doing a thing.QD6, ul.
Krakowska 3 lok. 1, tel. (+48) 531 90 59 65, www.
thai-smile.pl. Open 12:00 - 22:00.
VANILLA SPA
This luxurious spa in the centre of the five-star
Niebieski Hotel is a palace of pampering for your mind
and body thanks to a variety of holistic treatments in
relaxing environs. Spoil your skin through a series of
peels and masks using top of the line cosmetics and
munch on organic bio snacks courtesy of the Vanilla
Sky restaurant between trips to the sauna, steam bath,
and massage tables. Walk in for a free consultation
to have their experts create your own personal care
programme.QH4, ul. Flisacka 3 (Hotel Art Niebieski
& Spa), tel. (+48) 12 297 40 04, www.vanillaspa.pl.
Open 10:00 - 21:00.
www.Thai-Smile.pl
TRADITIONAL THAI MASSAGE
+48 531 905 965

Krakw, Krakowska 3/1
10% off on 1h massage with this guide

April - May 2016
117
Shopping
Justify your souvenir shopping as a historical and cultural experience at Krakws Cloth Hall (p.122) | photo by Wojciech Wandzel
WHAT TO BUY IN POLAND

ALCOHOL: Vodka (p.37) is a given and alcohol shops
are in plentiful supply, but try the flavourful infusions at
Szambelan (p.119), or mid pitny (mead) if the straight
stuff isnt to your taste.
AMBER: Though far from the Baltic Sea, Krakw was a
major stop on the Amber Road and youll find jewellery
made from this fossilised resin all over town (p.119).
BOLESAWIEC POTTERY: The hand-painted folk
patterns of Polands popular ceramic brand are beloved
internationally and will make a great gift for anyone you
know with a kitchen. Head to Dekor Art (p.122).
FOODSTUFFS: The Poles absolutely love putting food
into jars and the best place to pick up handsomely
packed local delicacies is Krakowski Kredens (p.121).
GRAPHIC ART: PL has a rich tradition of graphic art,
and Krakws poster gallery - Galeria Plakatu (p.119) is a great place to peruse and purchase it.
LITERATURE: Krakw is a UNESCO City of Literature,
and boasts Massolit (p.120) - one of the best Englishlanguage bookshops in Central Europe, with a great
selection of Polish literature, as well tomes on Polish
history and Jewish Studies.
While Krakw can hardly be considered a shoppers

paradise in the traditional sense, its artsy reputation
makes it a great place to pick up antiques, artwork and
jewellery. Areas of note include Kazimerz and the open
air markets - particularly Plac Targowy (E-4), while the
Cloth Hall (open roughly 09:00 - 19:00, C-3) in the middle
of the market square is obvious for typical local souvenirs.
For the generic western experience you can hit one of
the shopping malls we list, however throughout this
section weve made a concentrated effort to focus not
on recognised, international brands and franchises, but
unique, home-grown businesses; so we encourage you
to put your money where their mouth is. As this is PL,
remember many shops close early on Saturday and take
Sunday off altogether.
ALCOHOL
REGIONALNE ALKOHOLE
Krakws best, most diverse alcohol shop - ideal for an
education in Polish vodkas and the exploding Polish
craft beer movement. The selection of mostly-Polish
brews reaches up to 300(!) and there are literally
hundreds of vodkas and other quality Polish spirits to
whet your palette, plus a knowledgeable staff to make
deciding all the easier.QE6, ul. Miodowa 28a, tel.
(+48) 533 59 33 35, www.regionalnealkohole.com.
Open 12:00 - 22:00, Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 24:00, Sun
12:00 - 21:00.
Shopping
SZAMBELAN
A huge selection of special vodkas, meads and Polish absinthes
decanted from enormous Erlenmeyer flasks. The exotic bottles
make for ideal last minute gifts which they can ship for you, or
go ghetto fab by refilling a plastic bottle and stuffing it in your
luggage (or just strolling the Planty...wait, no). Sample first,
sample often.QC3, ul. Gobia 2 (entrance from ul. Bracka
9), tel. (+48) 12 628 70 93, www.szambelan.pl. Open 11:00
- 20:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 21:30, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
AMBER
Herbal vodka isnt the only golden nectar popular in Poland.
Poland is renowned for its amber and the craftsmen who
handsomely shape the fossilised resin into unique and
coveted pieces of jewellery. Come back from PL without
bringing baby some Baltic Gold and youve booked yourself
a stint in the doghouse. The best place to begin is the Cloth
Hall (open 09:00 - 19:00) in the centre of the market square,
where prices are surprisingly competitive, or visit any of the
many galleries around the Old Town.
AMBER MUSEUM & LABORATORY
QC3, ul. Jana 2, tel. (+48) 601 82 46 46, www.
ambermuseum.eu. Open 10:00 - 20:00.
WORLD OF AMBER
Also at ul. Floriaska 13 and 22 (C-3), and ul. Powile 7
(Sheraton Krakw, A-5).QC4, ul. Grodzka 38, tel. (+48) 12
430 21 14, www.worldofamber.pl. Open 09:00 - 20:00.
ART & GRAPHICS

Art abounds in Krakw, and in addition to the galleries
proliferating the Old Town, local artists shop their work
to tourists right on the market square, and along ul.
Pijarska on either side of the Floriaska Gate (C/D-2).
ANDRZEJ MLECZKO GALLERY
These anti-establishment, often blasphemous, damn funny
cartoons by Polands favourite cartoonist and Krakw native
Andrzej Mleczko are bound to remind you of someone you
know. Ideal for Polish friends and family, but many of the
cartoons are universal enough to make great presents and
souvenirs for anyone on your list, and can be bought as original
prints, or printed on mugs, shirts, bedding sets, posters and
more - even boardgames.QC2, ul. w. Jana 14, tel. (+48)
12 421 71 04, www.sklep.mleczko.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
The Global Blue Card
Your Passport to Great Savings,

The World Over (more information at gbs website)
1. You are a non-EU traveler
2. In the shop you spent a minimum of 200 PLN
3. You export the purchased goods
outside of the EU
YOU CAN USE THE TAX FREE

SHOPPING SERVICE
www.globalblue.com
GALERIA PLAKATU (POSTER GALLERY)

Poland has a proud tradition of graphic poster art for film
and theatre. Here you can browse binders of designs for
different plays, various propaganda and alternative film
posters you never knew existed for your favourite flicks.
Many are in stock and many more available to order. They
make fantastic gifts and keepsakes, or go cheap by buying
a stack of unusual postcards.QC3, ul. Stolarska 8-10, tel.
(+48) 12 421 26 40, www.cracowpostergallery.com.
Open 12:00 - 17:00, Sat 11:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
April - May 2016
119
Shopping
BOOKS IN ENGLISH
Massolit
AUSTERIA
Situated in the historical High Synagogue, Austeria
is the largest Jewish bookstore in Krakw, offering
literature, history, guide books and more in a number
of languages, plus music CDs and tourist information.
Upstairs is a gallery space showing revolving historical
exhibits related to Judaica in Krakw. Admission to the
exhibit 9/6z, children under 10 free.QE6, ul. Jzefa
38 (High Synagogue), tel. (+48) 12 430 68 89, www.
austeria.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00.
MASSOLIT BOOKS & CAF
The best English-language bookstore in Central Europe,
owing in large part to its unique cafe atmosphere. With
books on all subjects and specialising in Polish, East
European and Jewish literature in English, here youll
also find recent English language periodicals (store
copies) to peruse over coffee and a slice of pie, or even
a glass of wine. Stocked with remaindered books from
the States, the selection is surprisingly good, and the
prices are the best youll find anywhere. This legendary
establishment has been long-running but constantly
needs and deserves support. Still if youre on a budget
you can trade the novel you finished on the train for
credit towards a new one. Also look for their bakery
nearby at ul. Smolesk 17 (A-4).QA4, ul. Felicjanek
4, tel. (+48) 12 432 41 50, www.massolit.com. Open
10:00 - 20:00, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 21:00.
MATRAS
Boasting the UNESCO-condoned claim of Europes first
bookshop, the building at Rynek 23 has been in the
book business, almost without pause, since 1610. Run
by the Silesia-based Matras company since 1998, the
interior includes a handsome cafe and reading room,
and is full of author-portraits and autographs from
lettered luminaries who have been guests of this literary
space, which Carlos Fuentes called The Cathedral of
the Book. Their English section isnt great, but carries a
decent selection of Polish authors in translation, as well
as popular titles.QC3, Rynek Gwny 23, tel. (+48)
12 422 60 89, www.matras.pl. Open 09:00 - 21:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
FASHION & ACCESSORIES

CHORY CAPS & HATS
Maybe you arent aware, but Polish old man hats are
surprisingly stylish and this family shop is where to get one.
Affectionately known as the Hat Guy, give Jzef the hatmaker
a head and hell hand you a handsome, perfectly fitting hat.
Bring in your own fabric and hell even custom make one for
you. With Jzefs name and his shops Cracovian address sewn
into each one, these hats make a great gift and keepsake, as
well as being evidence of a world that is rapidly vanishing.
And theyre a bargain. Jzef doesnt speak English, but there
shouldnt be much mystery between the two of you; its not
like youre trying to draft legislation - its a hat, hes a hat guy.
QD7, ul. Krakowska 35a, tel. (+48) 608 28 26 31, www.
czapkichorazy.prv.pl. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
IDEA FIX CONCEPT STORE
The idea here is promoting contemporary, young,
independent Polish artists and designers - and for once were
not talking about painted angels or folk pottery. This shop is
straight Soho (NYC) with an alternative urban chic style and
attitude that will hopefully encourage Krakws hundreds
of DJs to pick up their duds somewhere other than H&M.
Championing sustainable consumption, drop in this expansive
and sexy 230m2 concept store just off Plac Wolnica to check
out clothing and accessories by independent local designers,
Polish films and music, Polish fibre arts, interior design and
more.QE7, ul. Bocheska 7, tel. (+48) 12 422 12 46, www.
ideafix.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
KOLOROWE NASTROJE
The fact that high-quality true vintage clothing shops
are so hard to come by in Krakw only makes this small,
charming and slightly hidden sklep just north of the Planty
all the more enticing. Instead of rummaging through
dishevelled bins of junk, here youll find a choice selection
of super-affordable vintage ladieswear (guys are out of
luck) well-curated by the same mother and daughter duo
that make your time in their shop so enjoyable.QC1, ul.
Duga 5, tel. (+48) 602 29 99 09. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Sat
10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun. Note that opening hours may
be subject to change (check their FB page).
NEW
RED IS BAD
Weve never quite seen anything like this before. Depending
on your political views, this might just be a shop that sells
shirts...or it might be something more than that. Red is Bad
themselves call it freedom apparel- shirts, hats, hoodies, bags
and other items with overtly patriotic images and slogans,
some of them subtle, some of them not so much. This is not
cheap souvenir store swag, but Polish-designers creating
high-quality uber-nationalist urban apparel collections. Pick
up shirts celebrating the Home Army, Warsaw Uprising (and
several other Uprisings), the Polish calvary, Witold Pilecki,
ancient kings and more for your super-proud relatives or inlaws.QB3, ul. Szewska 25, tel. (+48) 12 422 10 89, www.
redisbad.pl. Open 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.
Shopping
FOOD & SWEETS
CRACOW CHOCOLATE FACTORY
Wall-length street-front windows with a view into
the Wonka-esque workshop lure tourists inside this
enormous 2-floor old-school chocolatier that includes
an immaculate shop/showroom and upstairs cafe. With
delicious handmade treats in every direction - truffles,
pralines, chocolate bars, postcards, figurines and more
- Cracow Chocolate Factory perfectly captures that kid
in a candyshop excitement, and is great for dodging
the rain, spoiling the sweet tooth of a date or picking
up souvenirs.QB3, ul. Szewska 7, tel. (+48) 502
09 07 65, www.chocolate.krakow.pl. Open 10:00 22:00.
DELIKATESY 13
Located in the basement of Krakws nicest, most central
shopping mall, this Italian delicatessen offers a wide range
of high-quality edible goods including over 100 varieties
of Italian cheese and meats, parma ham, truffles, cooking
oils and balsamic vinagrettes, as well as delicious locallymade preservative free honeys and jams. Pies, pastries and
cakes are also made daily. The ideal place to go if youre
planning an intimate dinner part, Delikatesy 13 is packed
with outstanding goods, and the adjacent wine shop offers
a top selection.QC3, Rynek Gwny 13 (Pasa 13), tel.
(+48) 12 617 02 27, www.vinoteka13.pl. Open 09:00 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
BUTIK LCS - BALENCIAGA, CLINE, CHLO,

DSQUARED2, GFF FERR, GIVENCHY, GUCCI,
JIMMY CHOO, JOHN GALLIANO, STELLA
McCARTNEY, YVES SAINT LAURENT, VIKTOR&ROLF,
ANDR GRAND - COLETTI, CERRUTI 1881,
THOMPSON LONDON, VERSACE, BAGATT,
DIESEL, DIAMANTI, IPM DESIGN - MULHOLLAND
LIFE, PURE, KISS THE FROG, D.EFECT, MELISSA,
LOCCITANE, LOOKBOOK MOKOBELLE, LOUVE
WITH EVOLUE ROBERT KUPISZ, PAPROCKI
& BRZOZOWSKI, GOSIA BACZYSKA, UKASZ
JEMIO, 303 AVENUE, NATALIA JAROSZYSKA,
WESTWOOD EYEWEAR, MAGGIE PIU, MANIEWSKI,
NESPRESSO, TUTTI COLORI - MONALISA, CARAMELLA,
MINI MELLISA, BUNNY WHITE, VINICIO PAJARO,
LCONCEPT 13 - BAR & RESTAURANT 13,
DELIKATESY 13, VINOTEKA 13

City Essentials App
KOPERNIK
A traditional dating back to the 15th century, Toru
gingerbread is world-renowned and you can purchase
their range of novelty sweets in Krakw at this enticing
shop.QC4, ul. Grodzka 14, tel. (+48) 12 431 13 06,
www.kopernik.com.pl. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat, Sun
10:00 - 18:00.
KRAKOWSKI KREDENS
An old-fashioned dry goods store of expensive, yet
exquisite, Galician delicacies - including jams, honeys,
liquors, cured meats, candies and pickled things. This
is the perfect place to pick up handsomely packaged,
unequivocally Cracovian consumable goodies, and,
when available, a warm roll with their sliced pork and
mustard from the street-side window is actually a
gourmet street food bargain at only 5-9z (depending
on weight). Also in the Galeria Krakowska and Bonarka
City Centre shopping malls.QC3, ul. Grodzka 7, tel.
(+48) 696 49 00 12, www.krakowskikredens.pl.
Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 18:00.
MAIN MARKET SQUARE 13

OPEN: 9 AM - 9 PM; 11 AM - 5 PM
www.pasaz-13.pl
www.concept13.pl
April - May 2016
121
Shopping
MARKETS
GIFTS & SOUVENIRS

CLOTH HALL (SUKIENNICE)
Your best and easiest bet for gifts in Krakw. Essentially
the worlds oldest shopping mall, inside this architectural
marvel in the middle of the market square youll find
dozens of stalls selling amber jewellery, lacework, cloth
handicrafts, wood carvings, sheepskin rugs and all sorts of
Polish souvenirs and trinkets at prices that are actually more
reasonable than youd anticipate.QC3, Rynek Gwny
1/3. Open 09:00 - 19:00, but really its up to the vendors.
PLAC NOWY
This historic square was a Jewish market in the
pre-war days, with its rotunda serving as a kosher
slaughterhouse. Today youll still find butcher shops
inside, while fast food windows line the exterior. In
the open trading stalls surrounding the roundhouse
produce and junk are sold daily, but in the mornings
you never know what youll find: Saturdays are junk/
antiques, on Sundays its all clothing, while Friday
mornings its a full-on pigeon fair (get there early, its
usually over by 09:00). Markets begin around 07:00 and
generally end by early to mid-afternoon, depending.
In the evenings, Plac Nowy turns into one of the best
drinking destinations in town, lined with atmospheric
bars.QD6, www.placnowy.pl.
PLAC TARGOWY UNITARG
Known locally as Hala Targowa, this is the citys best
outdoor market. Open every day with everything
from fruit, flowers and produce to pirated DVDs,
dodgy underwear and cheap wristwatches, Sunday
is undoubtedly the best, but also the most crazy
day of the week at Hala Targowa, when it becomes
a sprawling full-blown flea market of Old World
antiques, Catholic icons, village detritus, vinyl records,
war memorabilia, mismatched shoes, stolen bikes and
pretty much anything you can dream of at negotiable
prices. Different vendors set their own hours, but
on weekends most are here shortly after dawn and
packing up anytime between 14:00 and sunset. At
night on Plac Targowy youll find two 24-hour alcky
shops and the best grilled kielbasa in town (open
20:00 - 03:00, closed Sun), sold from a van.QE4, ul.
Grzegrzecka, tel. (+48) 12 429 61 55, www.unitarg.
krakow.pl.
DEKOR ART
If youre not familiar with Bolesawiec - Polands wellloved folk ceramic brand, head here straightaway to get
introduced. Crammed full of colourful tableware with
simple, hand-painted and highly-recognisable folk motifs,
this bargain shop is sure to help you make someone on
your list happy.QC2, ul. Sawkowska 11, tel. (+48) 515
45 29 69. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
KACPER RYX
Enter via the same door as the Hipolit House museum, and
step into what a gift shop may have looked like centuries
ago, if there were such a thing. This small historical
shop offers swords, armour and weaponry; leather
flasks, pouches and bags; historical wood-prints and
archaeological replicas; beer steins, goblets and pottery;
cowls, dresses and other medieval apparel - all of it highquality, hand-made and fairly priced.QC3, Pl. Mariacki 3,
tel. (+48) 12 426 45 49, www.kacperryx.pl. Open 11:00
- 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 18:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.
ROCK SHOP
You know a city has made it when it gets a Hard Rock Cafe,
and is there anything which says Ive been there more
than a Hard Rock t-shirt? Ahem. Add the Krakw tee to
your collection at their location opposite St. Marys Basilica.
Classic white costs 99z, black 115z, but the memory of
buying it - priceless. Enjoy sales on most merchandise
throughout April and May.QC3, Rynek Gwny/Pl.
Mariacki 9, tel. (+48) 12 429 11 55, www.hardrock.com/
krakow. Open 10:00 - 24:00.
STARY KLEPARZ
A tradition of over 800 years, this large, covered
marketplace just north of the Barbican offers bargain
prices and the best selection in the city for local
produce, fruit, meat and cheeses, in addition to spices,
socks, sweaters and whatever oddball commodities
are the order of the day during your visit.QC/D1,
Rynek Kleparski 20, tel. (+48) 12 634 15 32, www.
starykleparz.com. Open 07:00 - 18:00, Sat 07:00 15:00, Sun 08:00 - 15:00.
Shopping
SHOPPING MALLS
BONARKA CITY CENTER
Located just beyond the limits of the IYP map (imaginary
coordinates K6), Bonarka offers 91,000m2 of retail space
with 240 shops including Auchan, Leroy Merlin, Media
Expert and 237 others, 20 restaurants and cafes, the largest
cinema complex in the city and 3,200 free parking spaces.
Built on the site of a former chemical plant, the heart of
this city within a city features eight two-storey palm trees
flanking a fountain under a glass ceiling. To get there take
buses 144, 173, 179 or 184 getting off at the Bonarka stop.
Qul. Kamieskiego 11 (Podgrze), tel. (+48) 12 298 60
00, www.bonarkacitycenter.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00.
FACTORY OUTLET
15 minutes from the centre, this outlet mall features 120
foreign and domestic brands - including Levis, Reserved,
Calzedonia, Gino Rossi, Benetton, Wittchen, Pepe Jeans,
New Balance and more - at 30-70% off the prices youd
find elsewhere. You can get there by catching a free bus
from Rondo Matecznego (I5) or Plac Centralny (O-4).Qul.
Roaskiego 32, Modlniczka, tel. (+48) 12 297 35 00,
krakow.factory.pl. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
GALERIA KAZIMIERZ
Opened in 2005, Galeria Kazimierz is still Krakws most
likeable shopping centre, boasting over 130 retail units
including media giants EMPiK and Euro RTV AGD, fashion
outfitters H&M, Zara and Simple, jewellers W. Kruk and
Swarovski, Alma supermarket, plus plenty of food options.
For recreational needs GK also touts a cinema and fitness
club. Easily accessed on foot, those arriving by car have
1,600 paid parking spaces to pick from.QJ3, ul. Podgrska
34, tel. (+48) 12 433 01 01, www.galeriakazimierz.pl.
Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00.
GALERIA KRAKOWSKA
Hard to miss since its been sneakily incorporated into the
train station, making it one of the most centrally located
shopping malls in Europe. Covering 60,000m2 over 3 floors,
stores include H&M, Peek & Cloppenburg, Saturn, Carrefour
and over 260 other retail units, 1400 parking spaces, and
a bustling food court. The mall and large square in front
of it also host frequent exhibits and events, contributing
to the revival of this once-dodgy area.QD1, ul. Pawia 5,
tel. (+48) 12 428 99 00, www.galeriakrakowska.pl. Open
09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
PASA 13
This gorgeous old Rynek townhouse was converted into a
snazzy upscale shopping area in 2005 to become the first
branch of the trademark Likus Concept Stores. Much nicer
than your typical shopping mall, Pasa 13 has over a dozen
designer shops to peruse, plus a fine Italian delicatessen
and the L Concept 13 Bar & Restaurant in the cellar, which
have their own hours.QC3, Rynek Gwny 13, tel. (+48)
12 617 02 27, www.pasaz-13.pl. Open 11:00 - 21:00, Sun
11:00 - 17:00.
April - May 2016
123
Directory
24HR PHARMACIES
CONSULATES & EMBASSIES
APTEKA DBAM O ZDROWIE

QI5, ul. Kalwaryjska 94, tel. (+48) 12 656 18 50, www.
doz.pl.
DENMARKQB3, ul. w. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73

80, www.nordichouse.pl.
APTEKA POD OPATRZNOCI

QB2, ul. Karmelicka 23, tel. (+48) 12 631 19 80.
24HR SHOPS
ALBI MARKET
QB3, ul. Podwale 6.
CARREFOUR EXPRESS
QD6, ul. Dietla 40, www.carrefour.pl.
SPARQA1, ul. Karmelicka 47.
CURRENCY EXCHANGE
FINLANDQB3, ul. w. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80,

www.nordichouse.pl.
GERMANYQC3, ul. Stolarska 7, tel. (+48) 12 424 30
00, www.krakau.diplo.de.
HUNGARYQE2, ul. Lubicz 17 H, tel. (+48) 12 359 99 20.
ICELANDQB3, ul. w. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80,
www.nordichouse.pl.
INSTYTUT FRANCUSKIQC4, ul. Stolarska 15, tel.
(+48) 12 424 53 50, www.cracovie.org.pl.
JAPANQI2, ul. Grabowskiego 5/3, tel. (+48) 12 633 43
59, www.pl.emb-japan.go.jp.
MEXICOQul. Wiedeska 72 (Bronowice), tel. (+48) 505
03 49 49.
NORWAYQK2, ul. Mosinicza 3, tel. (+48) 12 633 03
76, www.amb-norwegia.pl.
RUSSIAQB1, ul. Biskupia 7, tel. (+48) 12 422 26 47,
www.krakow.mid.ru.
SLOVAKIAQD3, ul. w. Tomasza 34, tel. (+48) 12 425
49 70, www.cgcracow.mfa.sk.
Currency exchange offices (Kantor) are easy to find

in Krakw, but as with any international destination,
its imperative to check the rates to ensure you arent
getting fleeced. The general rule is you should never
change your money at city entry points, particularly
at the airport where the rates are almost criminal. To
help put your mind and your wallet at ease, weve
vetted local exchange offices for you and assembled
a list of well-located kantors that wont rip you off,
and dont take a commission. In Krakws Old Town,
youll find kantors all along ul. Floriaska (C-2/3), but
its two streets over on ul. Sawkowska (C-2) that
youll find better, more competitive prices - this is
the best place to go rate hunting near the market
square.
SWEDENQB3, ul. w. Anny 5, tel. (+48) 12 421 73 80,

www.nordichouse.pl.
UKQul. Kawalerii 12, Warsaw, tel. (+48) 22 311 00 00,
www.gov.uk/government/world/poland.
UKRAINEQK2, Al. Beliny-Pramowskiego 4, tel. (+48)
12 429 60 66, krakow.mfa.gov.ua.
USAQC3, ul. Stolarska 9, tel. (+48) 12 424 51 00,
krakow.usconsulate.gov.
DENTISTS
KANTORQJ3, ul. Podgrska 34 (Galeria Kazimierz),

tel. (+48) 535 70 08 04. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Sun
10:00 - 20:00.
DENTA-MED
Also at ul. w. Gertrudy 4 (D-4) and ul. Augustiaska 13
(D-7) - both open 08:00 - 21:00.QJ4, ul. Na Zjedzie 13,
tel. (+48) 12 259 80 00, www.denta-med.com.pl. Open
24hrs..
KANTORQD1, ul. Pawia 5 (Galeria Krakowska), tel.

(+48) 515 12 58 84, www.kantor-exchange.pl. Open
09:00 - 22:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00.
DENTESTETICA
QJ1, ul. Kamienna 21, tel. (+48) 887 05 05 83, www.
dentestetica.com. Open 09:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
KANTOR CFSQD2, ul. Pawia 12, tel. (+48) 12 430

33 33. Open 24hrs.
EMERGENCY ROOM
KANTOR GROSZQC2, ul. Sawkowska 4, tel. (+48)

12 421 78 22. Open 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
UNIVERSITY HOSPITAL
QJ2, ul. Kopernika 50, tel. (+48) 12 351 66 01, www.
su.krakow.pl.
Directory
LAUNDRY
FRANIA CAFE
Krakws first and only laundromat cafe, let them do it for
you, or wash it yourself, while enjoying wifi, boardgames,
coffee, beer and booze from the bar.QE5, ul. Starowilna
26, tel. (+48) 783 94 50 21, www.franiacafe.pl. Open
10:30 - 24:00. 6GSW
PEPE PRALNIA
A high-quality self-service laundromat right in the centre
of Kazimierz, this family company has great prices, and
other locations at ul. Duga 58 (I-1) and al. Jana Pawa II 82
(AWF).QD6, ul. Dietla 51, tel. (+48) 666 11 11 19, www.
pepepralnia.pl. Open 07:00 - 22:00.
The best Krakw
has to offer
in one great app
POST OFFICES
POCZTA POLSKA
QD/E2, ul. Lubicz 4, tel. (+48) 12 422 91 68, www.
poczta-polska.pl. Open 24hrs.
POCZTA POLSKAQD4, ul. Westerplatte 20, tel. (+48)
12 421 44 89, www.poczta-polska.pl. Open 08:00 - 20:30,
Sat 08:00 - 15:00. Closed Sun.
PRIVATE CLINICS
ARS MEDICA
QD1, ul. Warszawska 17, tel. (+48) 12 423 38 34, www.
ars-medica.pl. Open 08:00 - 19:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
MEDICOVER
Also at ul. Bobrzyskiego 37 (Dbniki, same hours as listed
here), and ul. Bora Komorowskiego 25B (Prdnik Czerwony,
open from 07:00 Mon-Fri).QK3, ul. Podgrska 36, tel.
(+48) 500 90 05 00, www.medicover.pl. Open 07:30 20:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
RELIGIOUS SERVICES
KUPA SYNAGOGUE
Jewish services held each Friday.QD6, ul. Warszauera 8
(entrance from Miodowa 27), tel. (+48) 12 429 57 35,
www.krakow.jewish.org.pl.
ST. BARBARAS
Holy Mass in German each Sunday at 14:30.QC3, May
Rynek 8, tel. (+48) 12 428 15 00, www.swbarbara.jezuici.pl.
ST. FRANCIS BASILICA
Masses in Italian held every Sunday at 15:30, and in Spanish
every second Sunday of the month at 14:30.QC4, Pl.
Wszystkich witych 5, tel. (+48) 12 422 53 76, www.
franciszkanska.pl.
ST. GILES CHURCH
Holy Mass in English each Sunday at 10:30.QC5, ul.
Grodzka 67, www.krakow.dominikanie.pl.
City Essentials
Only our favourite places
Works ofine, incl. maps
Free download
Incl. dozens of other cities
www.iyp.me/app
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S
April - May 2016
125
Hotels
No matter your budget, thanks to Krakws ascent into

elite status as a European destination, there is no lack of
accommodation options in this fabled city. From fancy
5-star affairs to familiar franchises, boutiques to bed and
breakfasts, historic apartments to some 60-odd hostels you certainly shouldnt struggle to find yourself a place to
sleep. On our website - krakow.inyourpocket.com - we
list literally hundreds of accommodation options in and
around Krakw, with full descriptive reviews, photos, reader
comments, GPS mapping and more. Unfortunately space
constraints in our print guide no longer allow us to include
all of that content here as we once did, however we still
provide an updated list of reputable hotels, apartments and
hostels below. Sleep well.
SYMBOL KEY
P Air conditioning N Credit cards not accepted
F Fitness centre
H Conference facilities
K Restaurant
D Sauna
L Guarded parking on site
6 Animal friendly
w Wellness
C Swimming pool X Smoking rooms available
CREAM OF THE CROP

COPERNICUS
QC5, ul. Kanonicza 16, tel. (+48) 12 424 34 00, www.
hotel.com.pl. 29rooms (4singles, 17doubles, 8suites).
PH6FLKDC hhhhh
GRAND
QC2, ul. Sawkowska 5/7, tel. (+48) 12 424 08 00,
www.grand.pl. 64 rooms (55 singles, 45 doubles,
9apartments). PH6UFLKD hhhhh
GRDEK
QD3, ul. Na Grdku 4, tel. (+48) 12 431 90 30, www.
donimirski.com. 23 rooms (21 singles, 18 doubles,
2suites). PH6U
LKD hhhhh
HOLIDAY INN KRAKOW CITY CENTER
QD4, ul. Wielopole 4, tel. (+48) 12 619 00 00, www.
hik.krakow.pl. 237 rooms (236 singles, 236 doubles,
1 Presidential Apartment). PH6UFK
hhhhh
HOTEL STARY
QC2, ul. Szczepaska 5, tel. (+48) 12 384 08 08, www.
hotel.com.pl. 78rooms (8singles, 53doubles, 6suites,
7apartments, 1Presidential Suite). PH6UFL
KDXCw hhhhh
Hotels
KOMOROWSKI LUXURY GUEST ROOMS
QC1, ul. Duga 7, tel. (+48) 505 98 93 71, www.
hotelkomorowski.com. 7 rooms (7 singles, 7 doubles).
P
NIEBIESKI ART HOTEL & SPA
QH3, ul. Flisacka 3, tel. (+48) 12 297 40 00, www.
niebieski.com.pl. 40 rooms (38 singles, 38 doubles,
2apartments). PH6UFKDw hhhhh
RADISSON BLU
QB4, ul. Straszewskiego 17, tel. (+48) 12 618 88
88, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-krakow. 196 rooms
(142 singles, 142 doubles, 19 apartments, 35 Business
Class Rooms). PH6UFKDw hhhhh
SHERATON KRAKW
QA5, ul. Powile 7, tel. (+48) 12 662 10 00, www.
sheraton.pl/krakow. 232 rooms (221 singles,
221doubles, 10suites, 1Presidential Wawel Apartment).
PH6UFKDXC hhhhh
UPMARKET
AMADEUS
QD3, ul. Mikoajska 20, tel. (+48) 12 429 60 70, www.
hotel-amadeus.pl. 22 rooms (20 singles, 20 doubles,
2apartments). PHUFLKD hhhh
AMBER BOUTIQUE HOTELS
QB2, ul. Garbarska 8-10, tel. (+48) 12 421 06 06, www.
hotel-amber.pl. 38 rooms (17 singles, 29 doubles,
8triples, 6suites). PH6UFD
ANDELS BY VIENNA HOUSE CRACOW
QD2, ul. Pawia 3, tel. (+48) 12 660 01 00, www.
viennahouse.com. 159rooms (153singles, 153doubles,
6apartments). PH6UFKD hhhh
FRANCUSKI
QC2, ul. Pijarska 13, tel. (+48) 666 19 58 31, www.
hotel-francuski.com.pl. 42rooms (4singles, 23doubles,
15apartments). H6FK hhhh
GALAXY
QK3, ul. Gsia 22a, tel. (+48) 12 342 81 00, www.
galaxyhotel.pl. 205 rooms (200 singles, 200 doubles,
50 triples, 5 suites). PHUFLKDXC
w
hhhh
HILTON GARDEN INN KRAKW
QI4, ul. Marii Konopnickiej 33, tel. (+48) 12 399 90 00,
www.hgi.com. 154 rooms (147 singles, 147 doubles,
7apartments). PH6UFK hhhh
HILTON GARDEN INN KRAKW AIRPORT
Qul. Kpt. M. Medweckiego 3, tel. (+48) 12 340 00 00,
www.hiltoneasteurope.com. 155 rooms (152 singles,
152doubles, 3apartments). PHUFK hhhh
April - May 2016
127
Hotels
BONIA MEADOW
HOTEL KOSSAK
QA5, Pl. Kossaka 1, tel. (+48) 12 379 59 00, www.
hotelkossak.pl. 60 rooms (55 singles, 55 doubles,
5apartments). PH6UFKDX hhhh
HOTEL RUBINSTEIN
QE6, ul. Szeroka 12, tel. (+48) 12 384 00 00, www.
rubinstein.pl. 28rooms (23singles, 19doubles, 5suites).
PHK hhhh
HOTEL UNICUS
QC2, ul. w. Marka 20, tel. (+48) 12 433 71 11, www.
hotelunicus.pl. 35 rooms (12 singles, 23 doubles,
1apartment). PHLKD hhhh
MATEJKO
QD1, Pl. Matejki 8, tel. (+48) 12 422 47 37, www.
matejkohotel.pl. 51 rooms (48 singles, 45 doubles,
3apartments). H6UK hhh
METROPOLITAN BOUTIQUE HOTEL
QJ3, ul. Joselewicza 19, tel. (+48) 12 442 75 00, www.
hotelmetropolitan.pl. 59rooms (58singles, 58doubles,
4triples, 1suite). PHUFK hhhh
A massive and inexplicably undeveloped tract of

greenery directly west of the Old Town, the Bonia is
a huge, triangular open space measuring nearly 50
hectares. Technically a park, although lacking any trees
or other defining characteristics, the Polish name Bonie
denotes a meadow - something of an amiable linguistic
redressing of the Bonias true and unchanged historical
function: its a cow pasture. The areas ability to survive
to modern times as the largest city centre open space
in Europe can be credited to a perfect storm of boggy
undesirability, a centuries-long ownership dispute, and
finally a medieval legislative wrinkle. Used by locals to
graze cattle even midway into the 20th century, when
the now-defunct Cracovia Hotel was built next to it in
1965 the city moved to permanently ban unfashionable
bovines from the Bonia, only to find themselves
obstructed by an apparently still legally binding 14th
century decree by Queen Jadwiga which they would
have to sort out with Warsaw. Warsaw not being the
most cooperative or expedient bureaucratic partner in
those times, city council decided to stick with the status
quo, making it perfectly acceptable for you to air old
Bessie on the Bonia to this day. Though a great idea
for a city-wide one day annual event (called Bovines
on the Bonia - make it happen, Mr. Mayor), these days
the green triangle has primarily become the favourite
leisure space of dogs and their frisbee chasing, ball
playing owners, while the perimeter is a popular track
for cycling, running and roller-blading; in winter it hosts
cross-country skiers and an ice rink. Protected as a
National Heritage Site since 2000, the Bonia is ideal for
large-scale outdoor events, hosting numerous concerts,
rallies and - most notably - historic open air masses by
the Pope during his visits to Krakw.QG3.
PARK INN BY RADISSON KRAKOW

QA7, ul. Monte Cassino 2, tel. (+48) 12 375 55 55, www.
parkinn.com/hotel-krakow. 152 rooms (152 singles,
152doubles). PH6UFKDw hhhh
POD R (UNDER THE ROSE)
QC3, ul. Floriaska 14, tel. (+48) 12 424 33 00, www.lhr.
com.pl. 57rooms (50singles, 37doubles, 7apartments).
PH6FKD hhhh
POLSKI POD BIAYM OREM
QC2, ul. Pijarska 17, tel. (+48) 12 422 11 44, www.
donimirski.com. 60 rooms (30 singles, 22 doubles,
5triples, 3suites). PH6U hhh
PURO HOTEL KRAKW
QD1, ul. Ogrodowa 10, tel. (+48) 12 314 21 00, www.
purohotel.pl. 138 rooms (131 singles, 131 doubles,
7suites). PH6U
K hhhh
QUBUS HOTEL KRAKW
QJ4, ul. Nadwilaska 6, tel. (+48) 12 374 51 00, www.
qubushotel.com. 194 rooms (183 singles, 170 doubles,
10suites, 1apartment). PH6UFK
DC hhhh
SENACKI
hotelsenacki.pl. 20 rooms (20 singles, 16 doubles,
2suites). PH6U
FL
K hhhh
WENTZL
wentzl.pl. 18 rooms (18 singles, 18 doubles, 7 triples).
P6LK hhhh
Hotels
MID-RANGE
ASCOT HOTEL
QE3, ul. Radziwiowska 3, tel. (+48) 12 384 06 06,
www.hotelascot.pl. 49 rooms (49 singles, 36 doubles,
7triples, 2quads). PH6U hhh
AUTOMOBIL HOTEL
Qul. Pk. Dbka 13 (Podgrze), tel. (+48) 665 99 99
04, www.automobilhotel.pl. 18 rooms (18 singles,
9doubles, 1triple, 2suites). HU hhh
CAMPANILE
QD3, ul. w. Tomasza 34, tel. (+48) 12 424 26 00, www.
campanile.com. 106 rooms (105 singles, 105 doubles,
43triples, 1suite). PH6U hhh
CLASSIC
QD3, ul. w. Tomasza 32, tel. (+48) 12 424 03 03,
www.hotel-classic.pl. 31rooms (26singles, 26doubles,
3triples, 5apartments). P6UX hhh
vine.co/inyourpocket
DOMUS MATER
QL5, ul. Saska 2C, tel. (+48) 12 290 63 01, www.
domusmater.pl. 41 rooms (37 singles, 37 doubles,
4suites). HUK
EDENQE6, ul. Ciemna 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 65 65,
www.hoteleden.pl. 27 rooms (25 singles, 21 doubles,
5triples, 2suites). H6UD hhh
FLORYAN
QC2, ul. Floriaska 38, tel. (+48) 12 431 14 18, www.
floryan.com.pl. 21 rooms (21 singles, 21 doubles,
8triples, 3quads). PH6K hhh
HOTEL KAZIMIERZ
QD6, ul. Miodowa 16, tel. (+48) 12 421 66 29, www.
hk.com.pl. 38rooms (38singles, 28doubles, 2triples).
PH6 hhh
HOTEL KAZIMIERZ II
QE5, ul. Starowilna 60, tel. (+48) 12 426 80 70, www.
hk.com.pl. 25 rooms (25 singles, 23 doubles). H6
hhh
IBIS KRAKW CENTRUM
QA5, ul. Syrokomli 2, tel. (+48) 12 299 33 00, www.
accorhotels.com. 175rooms (175singles, 175doubles).
PJ6UK hhh
IBIS KRAKW STARE MIASTO
QJ1, ul. Pawia 15, tel. (+48) 12 355 29 00, www.
accorhotels.com. 135rooms (135singles, 135doubles,
16triples). PH6UK hhh
April - May 2016
129
Hotels
KARMELQE6, ul. Kupa 15, tel. (+48) 12 430 67 00,
www.karmel.com.pl. 11 rooms (4 singles, 6 doubles,
1suite). 6K hhh
KAZIMIERZ ANNEX
QD6, ul. Miodowa 18, tel. (+48) 12 421 66 29, www.
hk.com.pl. 11rooms (11singles, 11doubles, 4triples).
P6 hhh
MALTASKI
QB4, ul. Straszewskiego 14, tel. (+48) 12 431 00 10,
www.donimirski.com. 16rooms (16singles, 14doubles).
H6UL hhh
POD WAWELEM
QB5, Pl. Na Groblach 22, tel. (+48) 12 426 26 25, www.
hotelpodwawelem.pl. 48rooms (47singles, 42doubles,
1apartment). PH6UKD hhh
Airconditioned suites,
Art Nouveau ambiance,
situated in the very heart of the Old Town...
ul. Szpitalna 30, 31-024 Krakw
Tel. +48 12 422 10 44, Fax: +48 12 422 13 89
rezerwacja@pollera.com.pl, www.pollera.com.pl
POLLERA
QD3, ul. Szpitalna 30, tel. (+48) 12 422 10 44, www.
pollera.com.pl. 42 rooms (31 singles, 24 doubles,
7triples, 2quads, 2apartments). H6 hhh
ROYAL
QC5, ul. w. Gertrudy 26-29, tel. (+48) 12 421 35 00,
www.hotelewam.pl. 99 rooms (34 singles, 31 doubles,
12triples, 9quads, 10suites, 3apartments). PH6
UK hhh
RUCZAJ
Qul. Ruczaj 44 (Dbniki), tel. (+48) 12 269 10 00, www.
ruczajhotel.com.pl. 45 rooms (25 singles, 17 doubles,
12triples, 4quads, 4suites). PH6UKD hhh
As a unique 3-star hotel located in a quiet part of Cracow

just 5km from the Market Square, we offer silence and
comfort to our many guests. Our hotel restaurant serves
delicious Polish and continental cuisine, while our guests
also have the use of an outdoor barbecue grill. We also
offer a sauna and tanning bed.
Ul. Ruczaj 44, 30-409 Krakw

tel. +48 12 269 10 00, fax +48 12 269 20 30
e-mail: ruczaj@ruczajhotel.pl
www.ruczajhotel.pl
VIENNA HOUSE EASY CHOPIN CRACOW

QK2, ul. Przy Rondzie 2, tel. (+48) 12 299 00 00, www.
viennahouse.com. 220 rooms (212 singles, 7 doubles,
1apartment). PH6UFKD hhh
WAWEL
QC4, ul. Poselska 22, tel. (+48) 12 424 13 00, www.
hotelwawel.pl. 38 rooms (9 singles, 28 doubles,
1apartment). PHKDw hhh
WIELOPOLE
QD4, ul. Wielopole 3, tel. (+48) 12 422 14 75, www.
wielopole.pl. 35rooms (9singles, 27doubles, 9triples).
P6UK hhh
WYSPIASKI
QD3, ul. Westerplatte 15, tel. (+48) 12 422 95 66, www.
hotel-wyspianski.pl. 231rooms (41singles, 190doubles,
91triples). H6UFLK hhh
youtube.com/inyourpocket
Hotels
BUDGET
APARTMENTS
IBIS BUDGET KRAKW STARE MIASTO

QJ1, ul. Pawia 11, tel. (+48) 12 355 29 50, www.
accorhotels.com. 167rooms (167singles, 167doubles).
P6U h
APARTMENT CRACOW
apartmentcracow.com. 30 rooms (30 apartments).
6UK
TOURNETQD6, ul. Miodowa 7, tel. (+48) 12 292 00 88,

www.accommodation.krakow.pl. 18rooms (17singles,
16doubles, 10triples). 6K
APARTMENTHOUSE GRODZKA
grodzka.net.pl. 12rooms (12apartments). 6
HOSTELS
B&B LA FONTAINE
QC3, ul. Sawkowska 1, tel. (+48) 12 422 65 64, www.
bblafontaine.com. 11rooms (11apartments). K
GOOD BYE LENIN PUB & GARDEN

QJ3, ul. Joselewicza 23, tel. (+48) 12 421 20 30, www.
goodbyelenin.pl. 14 rooms (4 singles, 4 doubles,
62dorm beds).
GREG & TOM BEER HOUSE
gregtomhostel.com. 10rooms (92dorm beds). K
PINK PANTHERS HOSTEL
QC2, ul. w. Tomasza 8, tel. (+48) 12 422 09 35, www.
pinkpanthershostel.com. 13rooms (1single, 6doubles,
66dorm beds).
SECRET GARDEN HOSTELQD7, ul. Skawiska 7, tel.
(+48) 12 430 54 45, www.thesecretgarden.pl. 30rooms
(30singles, 30doubles, 8triples). 6
KANONICZA 22
QC5, ul. Kanonicza 22, tel. (+48) 603 95 13 77, www.
kanonicza22.com. 3rooms (3apartments). PK
KRAKOW CITY APARTMENTS
QD2, ul. Szpitalna 34, tel. (+48) 507 20 30 50, www.
krakowapartments.info. 15rooms (15apartments).
RED BRICK
QD1, ul. Kurniki 3, tel. (+48) 12 628 66 00, www.
redbrick.pl. 16rooms (16apartments). 6
RED KURKA
QC4, ul. w. Gertrudy 5, tel. (+48) 535 91 91 35, www.
redkurka.com. 3rooms (3apartments). 6
April - May 2016
131
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C I TY G U I D E S
The Lords Ark
Nowa Huta
Cultural Centre
Nowa Huta
Museum
Markiza
Cepelix
Stylowa
Museum of the
Armed Act
PRL
Museum
St. Bartholomews
St. John the Baptist
Monastery
Cistercian
Lake
Huta
Nowa
J. Matejko
Manor House
Wandas
Mound
ArcelorMittal
Steelworks
Etap
Jordan Park
National
Museum
Stained
Glass
ki
bnic
D ridge
B
Kociuszko
Mound
Zwie
rz
Bridyniecki
ge
zki
ald
nw e
Gru Bridg
developed area
Fo
cinema
Hilton Garden
Jewish Cemetery
Jewish Ghetto
Military Military
Cemetery
Cemetery
Water Park
Water Park
Rakowicki
Rakowicki
Cemetery
Cemetery
Home Army
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GardensGardens
rsk
Kotladge
Bri
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MOCAKMOCAK
Factory Factory
Cricoteka
Cricoteka
Lipowa 3Lipowa 3
Wgi
J
ska zefiska
erska
erska
Jzefi
Wgi
tek e
rna idg
Be otbr
Fo
tek e ki
rna idg ds
Be otbrPisu dge
i
Fo
Br
ki
ds
su e
Pi ridg
B
orum Forum
n s
sia g
le in
Si pris ge
U rid
Bn s
sia g
le in
Si pris ge
U rid
B
zki
ald
dge
Galaxy Galaxy
rsk
Kotladge
Bri
Jewish Jewish
Cemetery
Cemetery
en
Fort Benedict
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Jerozolimska
Krakus Krakus
Mound Mound
Liban Liban
Quarry Quarry
New New
Podgrze
Podgrze
Cemetery
Cemetery
Jerozolimska
B e d n aBr e
s kdin a r ski
Park Park
St. Florians
Agrafka
Academy
of Fine Arts
Barbican
Floriaska
Gate
Sowacki
Szoayski
House
J. Mehoffer
House
History Museum
St. Annes
Town Hall
Tower
Cloth Hall
St. Marys
Europeum
St. Barbaras
Jagiellonian
University
Hutten-Czapski
St. Adalberts
Bishops
Palace
St. Francis
BLU
Plac
targowy
Geology
Archaeology
Sts. Peter & Paul
St. Andrews
Archdiocesan
Copernicus
St. Marcins
Ibis
Centrum
St. Ignacys
ki
bnic
D ridge
B
Cathedral
Museum
Wawel
Hill
Wawel
Cathedral
Jewish
Cemetery
Royal
Castle
St. Bernards
Dragons Den
Temple
Isaac
High
Old
Synagogue
Manggha
zki
ald
nw e
Gru Bridg
Corpus Christi
St. Catherines
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Ethnographic
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Congress Centre
Skaka
Ethnographic
k
ate ge
rn rid
Beootb
F
Street Register
29 Listopada, Al.
J1
3 Maja, Al.
G/H2/3
Akacjowa L1
Akademicka H2
Aliny L1
Altanowa G1
Ariaska J2
Armii Krajowej, Al.
F/G1
Asnyka B1/2
Augustiaska D6-7
Bajeczna L3
Bauckiego A6
Bandtkiego F1
Bandurskiego K1/2
Barska
A/B6/7
Bartosza E6
Basztowa
C/D2
Batorego I2
Beliny-Pramowskiego, Al. K1/2
Berka Joselewicza
E5
Bernardyska B/C5/6
Biaa Droga
H4
Biernackiego H1
Biskupia B1
Blachnickiego, ks.
J3
Blich J3
Bobrowskiego K3
Boczna H4
Bogusawskiego D-5
Bohomolca L1
Bocheska J4
Bonerowska E4
Bonifraterska D7
Bora-Komorowskiego, gen. K/L1
Borowego F2
Bosacka E1/2
Boego Ciaa
D6/7
Boznaskiej K1
Bracka C3/4
Brzownicza F2
Brodowicza K1/2
Bronowicka F/G1
Brzozowa D5
Buhaka A7
Buszka F/G2
Bydgoska G1/2
Bytomska H1
Ceglarska H5
Celna J4
Chmielowskiego I/J4
Chocimska H1/2
Chodkiewicza J3
Chodowieckiego G2
Chopina H2
Ciemna E6
Cieszyska I1
Cicha F1
wiklowa F5
Cybulskiego A3
Cystersw L2/3
Czapskich A3
Czarnieckiego J4
Czarnowiejska H2
Czarodziejska G/H4
Czysta A2
Czywka J5
Dbrowskiego, gen.
K4
Dbska L2
Dajwr E6
Daszyskiego J3/4
Dbnicka H4
Dbowa A7
Dekerta K4
Dembowskiego J/K5
Dietla C/E4/6
Duga C1
Dugosza J5
Dobrego Pasterza
K/L1
Dolnych Mynw
A2
Dominikaska
C4
Droga do Zamku
B/C5-6
Dunajewskiego B/C2
Dworska H4
Dzielskiego K/L1
Estery
D6
Fabryczna L2/3
Faata H3
Feldmana A1
Felicjanek
A4
Fenna Sereno
I2
Filarecka H3
Flisacka H3/4
Floriaska
C/D2/3
Focha, Al. marsz.
G/H3
Franciszkaska B/C4
Friedleina I1
Galla G/H1
Garbarska
B2
Garczyskiego K2
Garncarska H2/3
Gazowa
E7
Gsia K3
Gowackiego G1
Goetla G2
Gobia B3
Gontyna G3
Grabowskiego
A1
Gramatyka G1
Grodzka
C3/5
Gromadzka L4/5
Grottgera H/I1
Grunwaldzka K1/2
Gryfity G3
Grzegrzecka
E4
Gzymsikw I1
Halicka J3/4
Helclw I1
Herlinga-Grudziskiego K4
Heweliusza L5
Hofmana F3
Humberta H3
Igrcw G2
Ingardena H3
Izaaka
D/E6
Jabonowskich H/I3
Jadwigi z obzowa
F/G1
Jagielloska
B2/3
Jachowicza L2
Jakuba
E6
Jaskcza H3
Joselewicza J3
Jzefa
D/E6
Jzefitw H1
Kadecka G1
Kalwaryjska I/J5
Kamienna I/J1
Kamieskiego I/J5
Kanonicza
C4/5
Kapelanka H4/5
Kapucyska
A/B3
Karowicza H2
Karmelicka
A/B1/2
Kasztelaska G/H3
Kazimierza Odnowiciela
K1
Kazimierza Wielkiego
G/H1
Kielecka K1/2
Kiekowskiego K/L4
Kijowska, Al.
G/H1/2
Kiliskiego A7
Klimeckiego K/L4
Kmieca H1
Kobierzyska H5
Kochanowskiego A1/2
Koletek
C6
Kotaja
E3
Komandosw I4/5
Konarskiego H2
Konfederacka
A7
Konopnickiej A/B5/7
Konwisarzy F1/2
Kopernika
D/E3
Kordylewskiego K2/3
Kociuszki H3
Kosynierw L2
Kotlarska K3
Kolarska L5
Krakowska D6/7
Krasickiego I5
Krasiskiego, Al.
H3
Kraszewskiego H3
Kredowa F5
Kremerowska
A1
Krlewska H1
Krlowej Jadwigi
F/G2/3
Krtka
C1
Krowoderska
C1
Krupnicza A/B2/3
Krzemionki J5
Krzesawicka L1
Krzywa
C1
Krzywda L4/5
ks. Kordeckiego
C6/7
Ksicia Jzefa
F/G4
Kujawska H1
Kupa
E6
Kurkowa J2
Kurniki
D1
Kwartowa L1
Lanckoroska K5
Lea F/H1/2
Legionw Pisudskiego
J4/5
Lenartowicza H/I1/2
Leszczynowa F3
Lewkowa E6
Limanowskiego J/K4
Lipowa K4
Litewska H1
Loretaska
A2/3
Lubelska I1
Lubicz
D/E2
Lublaska K1
Lubomirskiego J/K2
Ludowa K5
Ludwinowska I4/5
Lwowska J-K/4
obzowska
B1/2
Madaliskiego A6
Maa A4
Malczewskiego F/G3-4
May Rynek
C3
Masarska K3
Matejki, Pl.
I/J2
Mazowiecka H/I1
Meiselsa D6
Metalowcw E3/4
Mickiewicza, Al.
H2
Michaowskiego A1/2
Michaowskiego H/I2
Mikoajska C/D3
Miodowa D/E5/6
Mitery I5
Mlaskotw H3
Myska K1
Mogilska K/L1/2
Moniuszki K2
Monte Cassino
A7
Montelupich I1
Mosinicza K2
Mostowa D/E7
Na Grdku
D3
Na Przejciu
E6
Na Szaniec
L3
Na Ustroniu
I4
Na Zjedzie
J4
Nadwislanska J4
Nawojki G2
Obona H1
Odlewnicza F1/2
Odrowa I1
Ofiar Dbia
L3
Ogrodowa
D1
Oleandry H2/3
Olszaska K1
Orawska I5
Orzeszkowej
C6/7
Owcy-Orwicza F3
Paderewskiego C/D1
Paproci L4
Parkowa J5
Patynw G4
Pauliska
C6/7
Pawia
D1/2
Pawlickiego, ks.
H4/5
Pdzichw I1/2
Piastowska F/G1/3
Piekarska C/D7
Pietrusiskiego G4/5
Pijarw K/L1
Pijarska
C/D2
Pisudskiego A/B3/4
Piwna J4
Pl. Baw
E6
Pl. Bernardyski
C5
Pl. Biskupi
B/C1
Pl. Bohaterw Getta
J4
Pl. gen. Sikorskiego
A3
Pl. Inwalidw
H2
Pl. Kossaka
A5
Pl. Mariacki
C3
Pl. Matejki
D1/2
Pl. Na Groblach
B4/5
Pl. Nowy
D6
Pl. Sowiaski
C1
Pl. Serkowskiego
J4/5
Pl. Szczepaski
B2
Pl. w. Ducha
D2
Pl. w. Marii Magdaleny
C4
Pl. Wolnica
D7
Pl. Wszytkich witych
C4
Paszowska L4
Pod Kopcem
F3
Pod Kopcem, Al.
K5
Podbrzezie J3
Podbrzezie
D5/6
Podgrska E7
Podchorych G1
Podskale I/J5
Podwale B2/3
Podzamcze B/C5
Pokoju, Al.
K/L2/3
Pkole L3
Pomorska H1
Portowa K/L4
Poselska B/C4
Powile A/B5
Powronicza A6
Powstacw lskich, Al. J/K5
Powstacw Wielkopolskich, Al.
K/L4/5
Powstania Warszaw. Al.
K2/3
Prdnicka I1
Prandoty J/K1
Praska G/H4
Prusa H3
Przedwionie I4/5
Przemysowa K4
Przybyszewskiego F1
Puaskiego A6/7
Racawicka H1
Radziwiowska E2/3
Rajska
A2
Rakowicka J/K1/2
Reformacka
A/B2
Rkawka J/K4
Retoryka
A4
Reymana G2
Reymonta G/H2
Rodackiego J/K5
Rana
A6
Ruczaj F/G5
Rybaki I/J4
Rybna L4/5
Rynek Dbnicki
A6
Rynek Gwny
C3
Rynek Kleparski
C/D1
Rynek Podgrski
J4
Rzeszowska
E6
Rzenicza K3
Sdowa K2
Salezjaska G/H5
Salwatorska H3
Sandomierska
A/B6
Sarego
C/D4/5
Saska L4/5
Senacka
C4
Senatorska H3
Siedleckiego E4/5
Siemieskiego G/H1
Siemiradzkiego A1
Sienkiewicza H1
Sienna C3/4
Skaeczna C/D7
Skalica F5
Skarbiskiego G1
Skawiska C/D7
Skodowskiej-Curie D/E3
Skwerowa A7
Sawkowska C2/3
Somiana H4/5
Soneckiego K1
Sonecznikowa F3
Sowackiego, Al.
H/I1
Smocza B6
Smolesk A/B4
Smolki I/J5
Sobieskiego I2
Sobieskiego Jana III
A/B1
Sotyka E3/4
Spasowskiego A/B1
Spiowa F1/2
Starowilna D/E4/6
Staszica I1
Stawarza J5
Stefana Batorego
A/B1
Stoczniowcw L4
Stolarska C3/4
Stradomska C/D5/6
Straszewskiego I3
Strzelcw K1
Strzelecka E2
Studencka A/B3
Sukiennicza C6
Supniewskiego K1/2
Swoszowicka J5
Symfoniczna H2
Syrokomli H3
Szablowskiego F1
Szafera K2/3
Szczepaska B/C2/3
Szenwalda L1/2
Szeroka E6
Szewska B2/3
Szklarska L4
Szlachtowskiego G1
Szlak I/J1
Szpitalna C/D2/3
Szwedzka H4
Szymanowskiego H2
lska I1
liska I5
lusarska K4
niadeckiego J3/4
w. Agnieszki
C6
w. Anny
B3
w. Bronisawy
G3
w. Filipa
C/D1
w. Gertrudy
C/D4/5
w. Idziego
C5
w. Jacka
H5
w. Jana
C2/3
w. Katarzyny
D6/7
w. Krzya
D3
w. azarza
J3
w. Marka
C/D2/3
w. Sebastiana
C/E5
w. Stanisawa
C7
w. Teresy
I1
w. Tomasza
B/D2/3
w. Wawrzyca
D/E6/7
witokrzyska I1
Tenczyska B4
Tkacka H2
Topolowa J2
Toruska G2
Traugutta K4
Trynitarska D/E7
Twardowskiego H5
Tyniecka F/H4/5
Urzdnicza H1/2
Wadowicka I5
Waowa K4
Wandy K3
Warmijska G1
Warszauera D/E6
Warszawska D1
Wasilewskiego A7
Wska E6
Waszyngtona G3
Wglowa D7
Wenecja A3
Westerplatte D2/3
Widok L3
Wielopole J3
Wierzbowa I4
Wietora I4
Wiolarska G4
Wilna B3
Wadysawa okietka
I1
Wociaska F1
Wodna L5
Wodocigowa F4
Wjtowska H1
Wolnica, Pl.
J4
Worcela D2
Wrblewskiego I1/2
Wrocawska H/I1
Wrzesiska E4
Wyczkowskiego G/H3
Wygoda A4
Wyspiaskiego H1
Zacisze D1/2
Zaktek H1
Zamenhofa D/E2
Zamkowa A6
Zarzecze F1
Zatorska I4/5
Zauek K4
Zegadowicza A4
Zieliskiego, gen.
G/H4
Zwierzyniecka A/B4/5
Zwycistwa L2/3
Zyblikiewicza D/E3/4
Zygmunta Augusta
J2
elazna J1
kiewskiego K3
Index
19th Century Polish Art Gallery 76
Adam Mickiewicz
74
AfryKamera African Film Festival 23
Alchemia 64
Alchemia od Kuchni
33
Alebriche 44
Amadeus 127
Amarone 40
Ambasada ledzia
54
Amber Boutique Hotels
127
Amber Museum & Laboratory 119
andel's by Vienna House Cracow
127
Andrzej Mleczko Gallery
119
Antycafe 59
Apartment Cracow
131
Apartmenthouse Grodzka
131
Aqua e Vino
40
Aqua Fun
114
Archaeology Museum
76
Archdiocesan Museum of Cardinal
Karol Wojtya
77
Ariel 42
Ascot Hotel
129
Auschwitz I
109
Auschwitz II - Birkenau
109
Auschwitz Jewish Museum &
Synagogue 108
Austeria 120
Automobil Hotel
129
Baccarat 62
Bagelmama 34
Barbican 69
Bar Kazimierz
50
Baroque 59
B&B La Fontaine
131
Bianca 40
Bierhalle 33
Bishop Erazm Cioek Palace
77
Bonarka City Center
123
Bonerowska Gourmet Steak & Fish
33
Book-a-balance Mobile Spa
117
Boscaiola 42
Botanical Garden
116
Bottiglieria 1881
65
Bulldog Bar
59
Bunkier Cafe
59
Cafe Mynek
54
Cafe Sza
56
Cafe Tramwaj
110
CALAVERA Mexican Grill
44
Camelot 34
Campanile 129
Carriage Rides
70
Cathedral 111
Cathedral Museum
87
Celestat 77
Central Square & Roses Avenue 103
Chaiyo Thai Massage Centre 117
Charlotte. Chleb i Wino
34
Chory Caps & Hats
120
Church of Saints Peter & Paul 73
Church of Ten Thousand Martyrs 8
City Defensive Walls
78
City Engineering Museum
91
Classic 129
Classical and Film Music at St. Peter
& Pauls Church
26
Cloth Hall
122
Collegium Maius
77
Contemporary Japanese Crafts 21
Cool Tour Company
114
Copernicus
34, 126
Corpus Christi Church

90
Cracovia Marathon
27
Cracow Chocolate Factory
121
Cracow City Tours
71
Cracow Tours
70
Crazy Guides
103
Cricoteka 95
Crown Treasury & Armoury
85
Cruising Krakw
114
Cupcake Corner Bakery
56
Czerwone Korale
48
Dajwr 21 Food Truck Park
38
Dawno Temu Na Kazimierzu
42
Dekor Art
122
Delikatesy 13
121
Diocesan Museum
111
DiscoverCracow.eu
70, 71
Dobra Kasza Nasza
48
Dolls. Faces of Japanese Tradition 21
Domus Mater
129
Don't Dream About Love / Kuryluk
21
Eden 129
Ed Red
48
ENEMEF: Noc Batmana
24
Enoteka Pergamin
34
Eros Bendato
74
Eszeweria 64
Ethnographic Museum
91, 112
Europeum Centre for European
Culture 78
FACTORY Outlet
123
Film Music Festival
23
Floryan 129
Folk Dances From Around the
World 26
Food Truck Square
38
Fort Benedict
97
Forum Przestrzenie
59
Francuski 127
Frantic 62
Free Walking Tour
70
From Japan to Europe. Beautiful
and Useful Objects.
21
Galaxy 127
Galeria Kazimierz
123
Galeria Krakowska
123
Galeria Plakatu
119
Galicia Jewish Museum
91
Ghetto Wall Fragment
99
Gidon Kremer
20
Glass Forming Shows
26
Good Bye Lenin Pub & Garden 131
Grand 126
Grande Grill
29
Greg & Tom Beer House
131
Grdek 126
Grunwald Monument
75
Hamsa 38
Hans Zimmer Live on Tour 2016 24
Hard Rock Cafe
29, 59
Harris Piano Jazz Bar
62
High Synagogue
92
Hilton Garden Inn Krakw
127
Hilton Garden Inn Krakw Airport
127
Hipolit House
78
History Museum
78
Holiday Inn Krakow City Center 126
Home Army Museum
79
Hotel Kazimierz
129
Hotel Kazimierz II
129
Hotel Kossak
128
Hotel Rubinstein
128
Hotel Stary
126
Hotel Unicus
128
House Of Beer
60
Hurry Curry
30
Hutten-Czapski Museum
79
Ibis Budget Krakw Stare Miasto 131
Ibis Krakw Centrum
129
Ibis Krakw Stare Miasto
129
IDEA FIX Concept Store
120
India Masala
32
Indus Tandoor
32
InfoKrakw 71
InfoKrakw Kazimierz
71
International Festival of Ukrainian
Theatre 23
InVito Pizza & Pasta
42
Irish Pub Pod Papugami
60
Isaac Synagogue
92
Jama Michalika
56
Jan Matejko
75
Jan Matejko House
79
Jarema 49
Jewish Community
88
Jewish Community Centre
88
Jordan Tourist Information and
Accommodation Centre
71
Jzef Mehoffer House
80
Judaica Foundation
88
Juwenalia 26
Kacper Ryx
122
Kanonicza 22
131
Karma Coffee Roasters
56
Karmel 130
Kazimierz Annex
130
Kielbaski z Niebieskiej Nyski
40
Klezmer Hois
44
Klub 30
62
Kogel Mogel
49
Kolanko N6
57
Kolorowe Nastroje
120
Komorowski Luxury Guest Rooms
127
Kopernik 121
Kociuszko Mound
82
Krakow City Apartments

131
Krakw Film Festival
23
Krakow Folk Show
26
Krakowski Kredens
121
Krakw Water Park
115
Krakw Zoo
116
Krowarzywa Vegan Burger
55
Kupa Synagogue
92
La Campana Trattoria
42
Lady With An Ermine
86
La Fontaine
31
La Grande Mamma
42
La Scala Chamber Orchestra
20
Laser Park
116
L Concept 13 Bar & Restaurant

49, 65
Le Scandale
64
Let Me Out
116
Liban Quarry
97
Lipowa 3 Glass & Ceramics Centre
95
Lokal 62
Lost Souls Alley
116
Lost Wawel
85
Main Market Square
68
Making Connections
22
Maopolska Centre of Sounds &
Words 8
Maltaski 130
Mamma Mia
42
Manggha 80
Mariah Carey
25
Mariza 25
Marmolada 49
Massolit Books & Caf
120
Matejko 128
Matras 120
Medicine in Art
22
Meho Cafe
57
Memory Run
27
Metropolitan Boutique Hotel 128
Miejsce 64
Milkbar Tomasza
34
Mid Malina
50
NOWA HUTA STREET REGISTER

Andersa, al., gen. M/N1/3
Artystw N3
Bardosa T4
Batalionu Parasol
M1
Boruty-Spiechowicza, gen.
M2/3
Bulwarowa P/R1/4
Centralny, pl.
N/O3
Cerchw P4
Daniowskiego R4
Gajocha O3/4
Gardy-Godlewskiego, pk.
O2/3
Jana Pawa II, al.
M/R3/4
Klasztorna R5
Kleinera T1
Kocmyrzowska
M/N1
Lehra-Spawiskiego T1
Ludmierska N1/2
empickiego S1
Mierzwy
O/R3/4
Mocickiego
O/P1
Obrocw Krzya
N1
Orkana
P/R3
Padniewskiego, bp.
M4
Przyjani, al.
N/O2/3
Ptaszyckiego
R/T4/5
R, al.
O1/2
Rydza-migego, marsz.
M/P1/2
Sieroszewskiego
P/R5
Solidarnoci, al.
O/T1/3
Stalowa O1
Struga P2
Tomickiego, bp.
M3/4
Ujastek T1
Ujastek Mogilski
T2/4
Wakowicza S1
Wwozowa S1
Winiowy Sad
M2
Wojciechowskiego P1
Zachemskiego P4/5
Zuchw P3/4
eromskiego
O/P1/2
April - May 2016
141
Index
FEATURES INDEX
Barbican 69
Beer Gardens
65
Bonia Meadow
128
Breakfast 34
Carriage Rides
70
Currency Exchange
124
Facts & Figures
16
Food Trucks
38
Former Gestapo Cells
78
Have Your Say
55
Jagiellonian University
77
Kociuszko Mound
82
Krakw Historical Timeline
19
Krakw in 24hrs
67
Krakw IYP Online
74
Krakw National Museum
83
Krakw Street Art
80
Krakus Mound
96
Lady With an Ermine
86
Language Smarts
17
Late Night Eats
40
Liban Quarry
97
Live Music & Jazz
62
Main Market Square
68
Market Values
16
Markets 122
Memories of Lenin
101
Milk Bars
50
Niepoomice 4
Outdoor Attractions
116
Plac Nowy
92
Plac Wolnica
91
Polish Aviation Museum
79
Polish Food
46
Polish Snacks & Shots
54
Polish Vodka
36
Sowacki Theatre
69
The Cloth Hall
76
The Hejna
72
The Obwarzanek
44
The Planty
79
The Wawel Dragon
87
Tourist Card
71
Useful Transport Apps
12
What to buy in Poland
118

City Essentials App
Mleczarnia 64
Moo Moo Steak & Burger Club 29
Morskie Oko
50
Mostowa Art Cafe
64
Moto Show
26
Museum of Contemporary Art 95
Natalia Nykiel
25
National Museum, Main Building 81
National Theatre Live - The
Audience 27
New Jewish Cemetery
93
Niebieski Art Hotel & Spa
127
Niepoomice Forest
9
Niepoomice Museum
8
Night of Museums
27
NINE Kitchen
30
NOLIO 42
Nowa Huta Museum
102
Noworolski 57
Old Synagogue
93
Organ Music Days
20
Oriental Art
85
Paradise Club
63
Park Inn by Radisson Krakow 128
Pasa 13
123
Pharmacy Museum
81
Pharmacy Under the Eagle
95
Piec'Art 62
Pijalnia Wdki i Piwa
54
Pink Panther's Hostel
131
PINO 34
PKO Off Camera
23
Plac Bohaterw Getta
97
Plac Nowy
122
Plac Nowy 1
36, 115
Plac Targowy Unitarg
122
Pod Anioami
52
Pod Baranem
50
Pod Norenami
55
Pod Nosem
50
Pod R
52, 128
Pod Temid
50
Pod Wawelem
52, 130
Pollera 130
Polski Pod Biaym Orem
128
PRL Museum
102
Przypiecek 40
PURO Hotel Krakw
128
Qubus Hotel Krakw
128
Radisson Blu
127
Red Brick
131
RED IS BAD
120
Red Kurka
131
Regionalne Alkohole
118
Remuh Synagogue & Cemetery 93
Restauracja Krlowa Bona
8
Restauracja Sukiennice
52
Restauracja w Hotelu Francuskim 53
Rock Shop
122
Royal 130
Royal Crypts
87
Ruczaj 130
Rynek Underground
81
Rzenia - Ribs on Fire
30
Ssiedzi 53
Scandale Royal
34, 36, 40
Schindler's Factory
96
Secret Garden Hostel
131
SeeKrakow 71
Selah Sue
25
Senacki 128
Sheraton Krakw
127
Shisha Club by Bollywood
60
Sigismund Bell
87
Singer 65
Sissi Organic Bistro
36
Skaka & the Pauline Monastery 90
Skansen Smakw
53
Sodki Wierzynek
57
Sowacki Theatre
69
Smaki Gruzji
32
Smakoyki 54
Soprano 110
Spoem Deluxe
63
St. Adalberts
73
Stained Glass Museum
82
St. Andrews
73
Stanisaw Lem Science Garden 116
Starmach Gallery
99
Stary Kleparz
122
State Rooms & Royal Private
Apartments 85
St. Francis' Basilica
73
St. Joseph's
94
St. Marys Basilica
72
S-Tours 70
Studio Qulinarne
36
Szambelan 119
Szara 37
Szara Kazimierz
37
Szoayski House
83
Szpitalna 1
63
Tadeusz Kantor. Episode Three.
Marionette 22
Tarnw District Museum - Main
Branch 111
Teatro Cubano
61
Temple Synagogue
93
Tempus Fugit. Time and Transience
22
Thai Smile Massage
117
The Lord's Ark
102
The Piano Rouge
62
The Stage
61, 115
The Turk in Italy
24
Tourist Information Centre
112
Tournet 131
Town Hall Museum
112
Town Hall Tower
83
Tradycyja 37
Trzy Rybki
38
Ursa Maior Concept Store & Pub 65
Vanilla Sky
38
Vanilla Spa
117
Vegan Bistro Nova Krova
55
Vienna House Easy Chopin Cracow
130
Viva la PINTA
61
Wanda's Mound
103
Water Equipment Rental
115
Wawel 130
Wawel Cathedral
86
Wentzl 128
Wesela 21
22
Wesele 54
Wieliczka Salt Mine
104
Wielopole 130
Wierzynek 54
World of Amber
119
WOW KRAKOW!
70
WRT Karting
116
Wyspiaski 130
ZaKadka - Food & Wine
31
Zazie Bistro
31
Zenit 38
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Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

Arrival & Transport

Culture & Events 20

Maps & Index

Photo by Grzegorz Ziemianski

April - May 2016

While the excitement of the new season is palpable, for us

Copyright Notice & Editors Note

4 Krakw In Your Pocket

In Your Pocket, the worlds leading

THE ROYAL CASTLE

MAOPOLSKA CENTRE OF SOUNDS & WORDS

The Royal Castle

where every Guest

a 25,000-piece mural of Pope John Paul II (as you do in PL). In

ul. Zamkowa 2, Niepoomice

Arrival & Transport

Krakw Airport | Photo by Emily Meadows

Krakw is well-connected regarding transport, with a new

the terminal. Though some construction work is still

Arrival & Transport

We offer transfers to and from

We also offer one-day trips

Arrival & Transport

Arrival & Transport

Antique tram outside the City Engineering Museum

Find a map of Krakws tram system

Arrival & Transport

Poland is one of Europes leading nations in road fatalities,

For those just arriving in town, taxis await you on the

Alternative taxi service Uber (much-loathed by Krakws

Arrival & Transport

The Maluch - iconic communist-era family car, and sadly

April - May 2016

Prices in Poland are still fairly competitive despite

HEALTH & EMERGENCY

McDonald's Big Mac

LAW & ORDER

sounds like on in the French bon

Polish Words & Phrases

(Mam nah ee-myeh)

April - May 2016

Woodcut of Krakw from the Nuremberg Chronicle, 1493

The 17th century was marked by the pillaging of the

View of Rynek Gwny and the Cloth Hall, 1870

Jewish captives, assembled for slave labour, 1939.

Following WWII, the dubious process of Sovietisation

Culture & Events

29.04 FRIDAY 19:00

CINEMA CITY GALERIA KAZIMIERZ

26.04 TUESDAY 19:00

Whats going on?

Culture & Events

April - May 2016

Culture & Events

15.05.2016 SUNDAY 9:00

22 Krakw In Your Pocket

16.02 TUESDAY - 29.01 SUNDAY

Culture & Events

29.04 FRIDAY - 08.05 SUNDAY

29.05 SUNDAY - 05.06 SUNDAY

18.04 MONDAY - 24.04 SUNDAY

24.05 TUESDAY - 30.05 MONDAY