Anda di halaman 1dari 48

February 2011 Vol.30 No.

10

www.InternationalLiving.com

Corsica: The Affordable French Island Hiding Off the Riviera


Roatan Deals68% Off Caribbean Land...Page 4 How to Pay for Your Next Trip (Anyone Can Do It)...Page 10 Get the Best Health Insurance Overseas...Page 13

February 2011, Volume 30, Number 10 InternationalLiving.com

From the Publisher Let Us Help You Take those Blinders Off

February 2011 Vol.30 No.10

www.InternationalLiving.com

Corsica: The Affordable French Island Hiding Off the Riviera


Roatan Deals68% Off Caribbean Land...Page 4 How to Pay for Your Next Trip (Anyone Can Do It)...Page 10 Get the Best Health Insurance Overseas...Page 13

Founding Publisher William Bonner Publisher Jackie Flynn Executive Editor Jennifer Stevens Managing Editor Eoin Bassett Graphic Design Derek Westwood Copy Editor Glynna Prentice Photo Editor Hugo Ghiara Web Master Ciaran McGrath Advertising Niamh Cummins; fax (353)51-304-561; e-mail: ncummins@internationalliving.com Contributing editors Mary Anne and Pam Aden, Darius Fisher, Lee Harrison, Steenie Harvey, Suzan Haskins, Chris Hunter, Paul Lewis, Rob Marstrand, Ronan McMahon, Erika Nolan, Glynna Prentice, Dan Prescher, Jessica Ramesch, Margaret Summereld.
International Living (ISSN 0277-2442), Copyright 2011 by International Living Publishing Ltd. All Rights Reserved. Protected by copyright laws of the United States and international treaties. This Magazine may only be used pursuant to the subscription agreement and any reproduction, copying, or redistribution (electronic or otherwise, including on the world wide web), in whole or in part, is strictly prohibited without the express written permission of International Living Publishing Ltd., Elysium House, Waterford, Ireland. International Living is published monthly. Subscriptions: In the United States US$69 for one year, in Canada C$89 for one year, elsewhere US$89 for one year. Printed in the USA. Postmaster: Send address changes to International Living, International Living Publishing Ltd., Elysium House, Ballytruckle, Waterford, Ireland. Copies of this magazine are not available on newsstands but are furnished directly to the public by mail subscriptions only. International Living presents information and research believed to be reliable, but its accuracy cannot be guaranteed. There are many dangers associated with international travel and investment, and readers should investigate any opportunity fully before committing to it. International Living is happy to receive manuscripts on speculation, but the publisher cannot be responsible for unsolicited manuscripts received for review. All editorial requests will be reviewed and considered when we plan our issues. Not all requests, however, can be answered personally due to the volume of inquiries we receive. How to contact us: Customer service: To place an order for a product/subscription, renew a subscription, pay a maintenance fee, change an address, follow up on the status of an order, or inquire about a missed issue, etc., e-mail: customerservice@InternationalLiving.com. Editorial ofces: Editors, International Living, International Living Publishing Ltd., fax (353)51-304-561; e-mail: customerservice@InternationalLiving.com. In the September 2010 issue of International Living an image and article on page 9 were incorrectly credited Hilary Booth, but should have read Hilary Arnold.

heck carefully...and you may want to grab more than one mirror. Is there anything blocking your peripheral vision? Dont be so quick to say no. As expat Lee Harrison admits on page 44, for my rst 45 years I had my head in the sand...going through life with blinders on...frankly, I believed we already had the best of everything in the U.S., and saw no need to look further. But once he considered living overseas, Lee explains, those blinders came off. And all of a sudden he saw choices about every aspect of life that he just hadnt ever noticed before. For starters there was the choice of retiring at 49 instead of 62. Thats a 13-year difference. Once you take those blinders offonce you set aside the mainstream ideas about lifestyle and retirementI guarantee that, just like Lee, youll nd a world of opportunity on display. A full-color panorama of options you always had...you had just never noticed before. We take it as our mission here at IL to explore those many options on your behalf and tell you what we ndshow you whats worth your attention...and whats not. In this issue, our editors report in from all over the world

with a selection of choices I bet you never knew you had... Never considered the Mediterranean? Maybe you should. As Steenie Harvey reports, Corsica is dramatic, unspoiled, sensual. And squaremeter property prices are at least $1,329 less than elsewhere on the Cte dAzur (page 22). Always wanted a Caribbean retreat? Get yourself to Roatan where, as Ronan McMahon reports, you can buy real estate today for 50% less than it might have cost you there four years ago (page 4). Ready to step outside the mainstream for a romantic February treat? Try gliding along the canals of Venice...taking tea in a mock-Tudor mansion in Uruguay...walking on clouds in Ecuador. Our editors share their best Valentines Day ideas and not a one involves overpriced roses or a box of chocolates (page 18). And thats just the very beginning...

Jackie Flynn Publisher

Contents
4 Market Watch: Save $110,000 on a Caribbean view 18 Travel: Six ways to enjoy 26 Investment: Make romance overseas this money from Chinas next February great leap forward 29 Offshore: Why insurance annuities are a great offshore strategy 30 Real Estate: Your own private island hideaway in Belize from $150,000 33 Entrepreneur Profile: The taste of success in Merida, Mexico 37 Travel: On Aphrodites love trail in Cyprus 38 Property Picks: Eight great properties in places you can party
Corsicas best beaches are only a few miles from the charming clifftop town of Bonifacio.

21 Insider Intelligence: 7 Retirement Lifestyle: Healthy living in Panamas How to get a birds eye view of Barcelona highlands 8 Profiles: IL readers share their lives: Panama, Mexico and Brazil 10 Travel for Free: Make your house pay for your travel 13 Health Care: What about insurance abroad? 15 Travel: Inside Oxford, Englands university town
XYMO/iSTOCK

22 Feature Story: The best of France and Italy in one enchanting island

COVER: PAUL COX

16 Lifestyle: How one young family started over in Ecuador

44 The Last Word: Moving abroad is about choice

FEBRUARY 2011 INTERNATIONAL LIVING 1

Globetrotter
Booming Panama Builds New Islands
Construction has begun on two new islands off the coast of Panama City, just across from the ritzy new neighborhood of Punta Pacca. Per local realtors, the development dubbed Ocean Reef will include a 26-acre harbor featuring more than 200 wet slips. Other amenities may include parks, a golf course, tennis courts, 24-hour security and even heliports. World-class shing and the famous Pearl Islands are just 30 nautical miles away. According to recent reports and I.M.F. gures, Panama will be one of the fastestgrowing Latin American nations over the next ve years, with an estimated annual average growth rate of 6.6%.

Grab Your Mask and Take a Step


The worlds most famous masked party swings into action in Venice on February 26 to March 8. This is possibly the most lavish extravaganza in Italy. A masked procession marks the ofcial start of the festivities, but its not until the next day that the party really gets going, with medieval jousts, music and all the pageantry of the Middle Ages. The festivals high point, though, is the Grand Masked Ball, or Doges Ball, which takes place in one of the citys grand palaces, a different one each year. To join in you just need a few old-style dance moves and a mask. Watch out for highlights such as the waterborne parade of decorated gondolas carrying masked passengers down the Grand Canal. If youre exhausted after a week of partying here, spare a thought for the revelers of 18th century Venice, when the carnival sometimes lasted two months.

Ever dreamed of a country cottage in Britain? A new visa will make it easier to set up shop there.

JESSICA RAMESCH

Britains New Entrepreneur Visa


Panama Citys waterfront is set to see the construction of two new islands.

Getting a work visa in England is not just tough; it can also be an exhausting, tedious slog through bureaucracy, paperwork and

immigration lawyers. But a new visa may, however, make matters easier for you if you have a hot business idea. The British Prime Minister, David Cameron, has announced a new type of entrepreneur visa to help the British economy get back on its feet. Cameron says the visa will mean that if you have a great business idea, and you receive serious investment from a leading investor, you are welcome to set up your business in the U.K.

Top 10 Colonial Cities in Mexico


1. San Miguel de Allende 2. Mrida 3. Oaxaca 4. Guanajuato 5. San Cristbal de las Casas 6. Quertaro 7. Guadalajara 8. Morelia 9. Campeche 10. Ptzcuaro Mexico is rich in beautiful colonial cities. But topping our table of favorites is San Miguel, which stands out for its vibrant, exciting atmosphere. Go to a gallery opening, watch traditional dance, have cocktails at a trendy new bar, or take a class. Its all possible in San You may not have heard of a few of our picks, such as Ptzcuaro or even nearby Morelia, both in west-central Mexico. Their expat communities are smaller and theyre a bit off the radarbut they offer magnicent colonial living. Really, for beautiful surroundings you cant go wrong with any on this listor with a dozen other scenic cities in Mexico. For more information on these cities, life there and how you can enjoy it, see: Intliving.com/Mexico.
Church of Del Carmen, Morelia, Mexico.

Migueland in beautiful surroundings, too. Mrida, Oaxaca and Guanajuato are pretty much a three-way tie. Oaxaca and Guanajuato may have the edge in sheer beauty. But Mridas grandeur is kept lively by the music in the streets most evenings.

2 INTERNATIONAL LIVING FEBRUARY 2011

TATIANA MURCOVA/iSTOCK

JOHN WOODWORTH/iSTOCK

Globetrotter
Dance with The Devils
This 10-day festival is the largest annual celebration in the Bolivian calendar. Centering on Ash Wednesday (March 9, this year), it takes place in Oruro, in western Bolivia. The opening parade features up to 20,000 costumed dancers and 10,000 musicians, and it can last nearly 24 hours. This is La Diablada (the dance of the devils), when St. Michael leads Lucifer and the Andean god of evil, Supay, along with their cohorts to the city stadium. Here, the story of the battle of good and evil is told with dances (good wins out).

Exploring Grcia: Barcelonas Coolest Neighborhood By Darius Fisher


When you enter Grcia, you escape the hustling wide streets of a metropolis and stroll into the narrow passages of a relaxed, bohemian village. This is what makes Grcia distinct. And why its my favorite part of Barcelona.... A standalone village until 1897, Barcelona engulfed Grcia when urban planner Ildefons Cerd designed the avant-garde Eixample neighborhood to expand the city westward. Yet despite being taken over by urban sprawl, Grcia still maintains its own special character. Today, musicians, artists, designers, students and families have made it the hippest place to be in what is possibly Europes hippest city. Unlike the neighborhoods of El Born, Barri Gtic and El Raval near Las Ramblasthe pedestrian-only vein that cuts through the medieval cityGrcia is not nearly as touristy. Most visitors come to see Antoni Gauds architectural masterpieces, Park Gell and Casa Vicens, and then head back to the city center. But to discover Grcias charm and get a taste of Catalan culture, you need to spend an evening in one of the neighborhoods cafs, bars or restaurants. an ideal spot for hearing street musicians. By night, the plaza transforms into a haven for night owls looking to drink and gab about the issues of the day. (During Francos dictatorship, Grcia was a hotbed for revolutionary thought and political protest. Even today, residents remain politically active.) For a more low-key plaza experience, head to Plaa de la Virreina for tapas and a glass of delicious Spanish wine. This is Grcias most beautiful plaza. Set in front of the church of Sant Joan Baptista, its an ideal place for an evening out. If by some good fortune youre in Barcelona during August, catch La Festa Major de Grcia, the citys largest street festival. During the weeklong celebration, neighbors team up and decorate the streets, with awards going to the best-decorated. Every year, half a million revelers enjoy the merriment, open-air concerts and food stalls. Whether you visit Barcelona for a nighttime adventure, an architectural tour or just to poke around, amble your way up to Grcia for a uniquely Catalan experience.

So many dancers and musicians take part in the Oruro parade, Bolivia, that it can take 24 hours.

The party ends with the Da del Agua (the Day of Water), a huge water ght in which everyone takes part. The carnival attracts 400,000 people, so youd be well advised to book accommodation in advance.

LATINCONTENT/GETTY IMAGES

Do You Care This Much About Cuisine?


If you love to eat, heres some good news: For the rst time ever, food has made it onto a UNESCO heritage list. Not just any food, but Mexican and French cuisine now stands on a list compiled by this UN body charged with protecting global heritage and culture. Youve probably seen the UNESCO protected label attached to your favorite sites like the Great Barrier Reef, the Mexican city of Oaxaca, or Cusco, Peru. Every year, UNESCO meets to decide what needs support. It aims to protect art forms and traditions under threat. UNESCO ofcially guards Chinese calligraphy and Costa Rican ox herding, among other thingsand now Mexican and French cooking. So the next time you chomp down a taco or some escargot (snails) know that youre doing your bit to protect our worlds culture.

Many of the popular spots are in the plaas Editors Note: For a birds-eye view of (plazas). During the day, Plaa del Sol is a great place to meander or sip an espresso over Barcelona, and inside tips on how to indulge yourself in the Catalan capital, see page 21. a good book. This emblematic plaza is also
Nightlife in Grcia, Barcelona, the citys coolest neighborhood.

FEBRUARY 2011 INTERNATIONAL LIVING 3

GETTY IMAGES

Market Watch By Ronan McMahon

How to Save $110,000 on Your Caribbean View


ut beyond the turquoise water, waves break on the reef. Im standing on a white-sand beach looking at the Caribbean. Behind me, a gentle breeze rustles the thick foliage covering the hillsides. The occasional sway of the trees reveals sheltered shorefront homes just back from the sand. Its truly beautiful. But thats not why Im here. Im here because events of the past four years have created an opportunity. An opportunity to buy real estate for 50% less than it might have cost you here four years ago...and for as little as 10% of what you would pay on Caribbean islands to the east. This is Roatan, the largest of the Bay Islands located just off Honduras Caribbean Coast. The island is smallonly 37 miles long, and ve miles across at its widest point. But you wont nd anywhere so brim-full of opportunity right now. The island is a fascinating mix of people, culture, history and accentsSpanish, English, pirate, slave, indigenous and Garifuna are all rooted here. Until the 1970s, there were few Spanish speakers (outside of government ofcials). The islanders were English-speaking. Then, the shing and shipping industries attracted Spanish-speaking migrant workers from the mainland. Still, English remains widely spoken on Roatan today. If you have trouble communicating with someone, theres always
4 INTERNATIONAL LIVING FEBRUARY 2011

another islander nearby whose English is strong and who is happy to help. Proximity to the worlds second-largest reef means Roatan is a popular spot with divers. And its accessible. Weekly direct scheduled ights depart from Miami, Atlanta and Houston. In the winter, charters y from a variety of cities, including Toronto, Montreal and even Milan, Italy. Alternatively you can y via San Pedro Sula on the mainland any day of the week and catch a regular hop to the islands. Roatan experienced major real estate and tourism development in the 1990s and the rst half of the last decade. Cruise ships, resort developers and retirees started to come in droves. Im back for the rst time in four years. On my last trip I found a real estate bubble just waiting to burst. Back then, there were more than 30 real estate projects at varying stages of planning and early development. Most of

Stay Ahead of the Path of Progress


Ronan McMahon is the Executive Director of Pathnder, which focuses on opportunity for gains in strategic pockets around the worldbefore most folks have even heard of them. He writes for Pathnders real estate investment service, the Real Estate Trend Alert. To nd out more, see: Intliving.com/RETA.

these were being attempted by folks with no development experience. (Not even development experience in their home country...let alone an island in the Caribbean, governed by a Central American country.) While Europeans own little hotels, dive schools and restaurants here, most of the real estate buyers come from the U.S. and to a lesser extent Canada. But salesonce brisk began drying up in 2007 as the U.S. real estate market unraveled. Potential buyers felt poorer and could no longer rely on a line of credit from home. Every market that shared Roatans level of exposure to U.S. buyers suffered similar problems. But at a development level, Roatan was particularly vulnerable as there were so many projects in early stages of development there. This horriblealmost non-existentreal estate market and weak tourism market were made worse when Honduras military and judiciary packed the countrys president off to Costa Rica in his pyjamas. Honduras found itself at the center of international attention. There was no real violence, but the mainstream media said that Honduras was on the verge of collapse. The U.S. State Department issued travel advisories. Visitors stopped coming. Any real estate buyers who had been watching scuttled back into their shells. But neither a poor U.S. economy nor negative press makes Roatan a less beautiful or less enchanting place. And thats why I came

RAMUNAS BRUZAS/DREAMSTIME.COM

You can get property for 50% less than you would have paid for it four years ago on Roatan, Honduras.

Roatan is m ore accessible than ever.

back...to investigate the opportunities this crisis has created. What I noticed rst was that the realtor signs once posted everywhereare today nowhere to be seen. None of the planned projects I visited on my last trip had materialized. Some started, then stalledothers never even got off the ground. I dont want this to sound like some kind of Caribbean Armageddon though. Its not. Its paradise. The real estate industry imploding here doesnt change that. Luckily, the projects that didnt materialize didnt leave a scarred coast of half-nished buildings like you nd on Spains costas. And the strong projects that were already well established on my last trip remain here and remain viable. They have weathered the stormsometimes by offering deep discounts. It feels as if the clock has been turned back to before the height of the boom. Today, a small number of established projects compete with one-off sales scattered across the island. Few realtors are still active here. But even in this crisis there has been some progress. Last year the new cruise ship terminal opened. It can accommodate two of the largest category of cruise ships at any given time. The terminal area has an impressive selection of shops, a private beach and even a chair lift. Its quite the thing...and under the gaze of those mountainous cruise ships. Work on the Pete Dye golf course started

close to two years ago. This is the other major project that has progressed in the past year (see: Pristinebayresort.com). Pete Dye is the worlds most celebrated golf course architect. I played the front nine with the owner of the development and met with Perry Dye, Petes son, who is very hands-on with this project. You expect the design and delivery quality from a Dye course. What you dont expect is the amazing Caribbean views. Todays Opportunity While visiting one of the established projects, I caught word that the owner of a resale lot that had been listed at $160,000 was reducing his asking price to $50,000. He needs the cash. I visited the lot. Its stunning...with views to the reef and breaking surf. Neighboring lots are in the $150,000 to $180,000 range. A few days later another of the established and high-end communities I visited offered a discount of up to 50% on completed condos. You could choose any condo but the offer ended as soon as two sold. Just $200,000 would have bought you a condo close to 1,000 square feet. Its a long time since Ive seen a condo like this in a Caribbean locale like Roatan for $200,000. Of course, when considering this type of opportunity you need to be sure the developer will deliver on his promises. In these cases you dont need to worry about that. The infrastructure and amenities are in place. The condo is

complete. These were good buys. Both were snapped up. Thats the way the market is. Buyers sit on the sidelines and pounce when the deal is right. And, the right deals are coming up. The most enticing deals come and go fast. Frankly, the best opportunities I know of today will likely be sold by the time this is printed and mailed to you. Thats why Im putting together a special page of current listings at Intliving.com/roatandeals. Meantime, to give you a taster here are three sample picks: How about a three-bed, two-bath, 1,500-square-foot home in a quiet subdivision close to everything for $179,000. On a large lot (0.92 acres) with additional building sites you get great views and private road access. A private beach and marina is a two-minute stroll. Living in Keyhole Bay is the closest thing to paradise I can imagine. There are luxury condos here in a community designed with Mediterranean-style architecture; all permanent buildings have concrete walls and redclay tile roofs. All have fully-equipped kitchens. Discounted condos start from $205,000 for just under 1,000 square feet of living space. For $17,000 you can get a mountain-view lot in the quiet area of Brass Hill. Road, electricity and power are available in this small community. For current listings go to Intliving.com/ roatandeals or email Janine@roatan-realestate.com.
FEBRUARY 2011 INTERNATIONAL LIVING 5

GLOWIMAGES/GETTY IMAGES

Retirement Lifestyle By Jessica Ramesch


Saddle up for an outdoor life in Panamas Chiriqui highlands.

ar r

Life in Boquete is Good for the Soul

ipping a cup of thick-as-mud coffee, I breathe out slowly, enjoying the bittersweet taste and the cool mountain air. Around the back of the caf, a family is taking pictures of the amazing mountain view. I know betterthe misty rain called bajareque creates a swirling wonderland in these Panamanian valleys thats impossible to capture on a point-and-shoot digital. On my rst visit to this highland town ve years ago, I expected to be wowed by a colonial gem. I was a little underwhelmed when I got to the small main plaza. But I quickly realized that this town is all about the surroundings and boy are they beyond-words spectacular. Driving into Boquete from the provincial capital of David, youll pass the main square on your rightbut dont stop there. Carry on towards the colonial church and climb up, past a smattering of shops and adorable little restaurants painted in happy pastels. Before you can blink, youll nd yourself suddenly plunged into a world of misty green. The velvety mountainsides are dotted with cottages the green is interrupted where owers erupt in a bright reworks display. This is Boquete, demure with a hint of cheeky color.

Nestled in the shadow of Panamas mystic Volcan Baru in the province of Chiriqui, Boquete is one of the worlds best bird-watching townsthe site of international awardwinning coffee plantationsand home to an orchid farm, where the variety dazzles even the most experienced collectors. (The rare and exquisite blooms can sell for $70 to $1,500 at international shows.)

Its amazing being in the folds of the mountains, watching the climate change.
The region provides up to 80% of all the milk, meat and vegetables consumed in Panama. With easy access to the freshest produce, seafood and more, its not hard to see why many expats claim their health has improved soon after moving here. The perfectly pristine beaches of Boca Chica and Boca Brava Island are about an hour-and-a-half away by car. So is Panamas

oldest and most valued archeological site, Sitio Barriles. Other nearby attractions include thermal springs, waterfalls, strawberry stands, horse ranches, rafting rapids and La Amistad National Park. Perhaps the best is the Los Quetzales Trail in the Volcan Baru National Park. One of the nations prized bird-watching trails, this is one of the best places in the world to spot the legendary resplendent quetzal. All this makes Boquete a premium location, and thats one of the reasons it is home to so many contented expats. Ask Susan and Jason Thomas. They moved to Boquete two-and-a-half years ago after they fell in love with the climate here. Temperatures in Boquete range from the low 70s F to the mid-80s Fon average, thats 10 to 20 degrees cooler than in Panama City. Boquete is comfortable and beautiful, but more than that, it offers great value, says Susan. Here, your greatest savings will stem from the climate, as theres no need for air conditioning, fans or heating. Cook with gas like most residents and youll spend about $2 a month for a two-person household. A typical water bill is $8 per month, which includes a

6 INTERNATIONAL LIVING FEBRUARY 2011

BRAD THOMPSON/ GETTY IMAGES

center you will nd Chinese, Mexican, Israeli, American, Italian, Spanish and Peruvian restaurants. My favorite by far this trip was The Rock, which features an eclectic menu showcasing local ingredients (try the sinful coffee crme brule). The Thoma also enjoy meeting and Thomas p spending time with friendssomething th they never had time for before. COSTA RICA B Back home, people tended to Cerro t the mold or do their best to BOCAS DE Punta L TORO t in. Not so in Boquete, where Boquete San th the eclectic expat community P A N A M Andres can be quirky. People here are A rea really different and interesting, Soloy La Concep cion Panama they say, and they know how to David City C H IR IQ U Pedregal hav have fun. They like that its easy I m to make friends and nd likePuerto Boca Chica mind minded people with whom to share Armuelles Tole Boca Brava ideas or plan activities. Its a better Island lifest lifestyle, says Susan, were not surro surrounded by stressed-out people S Golfo de Ch iriqui worki working 70-hour weeks. Geo George Gray is an avid worldtravele traveler who also discovered the delight delights of Boquete. He came down tising in Toronto when they decided to get out for a six-month stint to try it out. Mere of the rat race and head to Panama. The Thom- weeks into his stay, he decided to take the as had dreamt of having a B&B in England, plunge and apply for residency via Panamas as Jason is originally from there. They quickly attractive Pensionado or Pensioners Residency realized, however, they wouldnt be able to Program. afford much help and might end up doing a My income is now about a third of what lot of work themselves. We didnt want to it was before I retired, says George, who was be making the beds, said Jason. A friend of looking for a place that offered a nice nightlife theirs had been living in Panama for about but also a low cost of living. I could no longer ve years, and so they decided to give it a try. afford the lifestyle I was accustomed to, he Their lives have changed drasticallyand says. for the better, they say. It used to be they George cautions against moving just for worked from 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. and never went the cost of living, however. I couldve moved to lunch. Weekends were depressing; spent to a small town in Florida and lived on the trying to recover rather than relaxing and same budget, but I wouldnt have the same unwinding. Now, on any given day, Susan cultural experience or eclectic community or and Jason enjoy eating out. The offerings in night life. town are improving dailyclose by the town I like the mountains, being out in the

$4 fee for garbage pick-up. A cup of coffee good, rich Boquete coffeewill cost you $0.40, while a hearty breakfast can be had for $2.50. The Romero supermarket in Boquete and the massive El Rey supermarket in the provincial capital of Davidabout 45 minutes away by caroffer just about everything you would expect to nd back home. But residents tend to buy produce from local kiosks, where a bulging bag of farm-fresh tomatoes, peppers, onions, green beans, oranges and more is less than $10. And while rentals are often advertised online at $600 to $1,200 a month, the truth is that a days worth of digging can turn up small cabins for as little as $350 a month. The 36- and 44-year-old Susan and Jason now run a B&B, the Boquete Garden Inn. Surrounded by owers and gardens and bordered by a small river, it is an ongoing labor of love in a town that Susan says is good for the soul. She and Jason were both working in adver-

How to Get There


Aeroperlas and Air Panama offer one-hour ights to David from Panama City. From there, you can take a bus or rent a car to drive the 45 minutes to Boquete. To check out fares, visit the Aeroperlas website: Aeroperlas.com, or Air Panamas website: Flyairpanama.com/tickets. Round-trip tickets are currently about $200. It takes about six hours by car to drive to Boquete from Panama City.

woods, enjoying the clean air and water, says George. The fruits and veggies are all good, he adds; his neighbor brought him organic bananas from his trees earlier today. At night, there is no trafc to listen tojust the far-off sound of barking dogs. An average day for George might start with some time spent researching future travel (he has a reliable one gigabyte Wi-Fi connection that lets him surf the net anywhere in the house). In the future, he might spend half the year traveling and the other half in Panama, hes decided, so he has a lot of research to do. He goes into town once a week. There are very ne restaurants in Boquete, he says, just as good as in Miami or Coral Gables. He also goes to David periodically, to stock up on supplies at PriceSmart or any of the other large shops. And each week there is something new, he adds. There are plenty of expat activities if you are a joiner, and Im looking forward to the ower and coffee fair in January. But even guring out where to get a haircut or how to set up a bank account is an adventure. George often eschews the expat activities, choosing instead to tramp around the mountains with local guides, enjoying the cool mountain air and rugged trails. In the evening, he likes to have a drink on his gorgeous terrace overlooking the pine trees below. Its amazing being in the folds of a mountainwatching the climate change, he says. This is getting to be the windy season, and the breeze outlines the scenery to me; it lights up the pine trees and the wrinkles of the land. George is completely blindI couldnt end this story without revealing thatbut he sees Boquetes beauty and value clearly. And if he does, I guarantee you will, too.

Live the High Life in the Highlands


Whether youre looking to live in Panama part-time, relocate and start anew, or retire in an idyllic mountain town, Panama has a highland retreat thats right for you. We have put together a comprehensive report called Live the High Life in the HighlandsPanama: Dream it, Find it, Live it detailing our favorite cool-weather locales. Each location has been chosen for a different reason, so youre sure to nd a place thats perfect for youwhether you yearn for the quiet and solitude of the great outdoors or the comfort and familiarity of an active expat community. To nd out more, see: Intliving.com/highlands.

FEBRUARY 2011 INTERNATIONAL LIVING 7

Proles

Expat Adventures: Three New Lives Abroad


Ive Never Regretted the Move
kept thinking about itit wasnt just a joke to me. Growing up, Robert had traveled all over the world thanks to his fathers miliName: Robert Cook tary job. He fell in love with Puerto Rico Age: 54 and then Spain, so he knew the Latin lifeNationality: U.S. style was for him. He began researching Living in: Boquete, Chiriqui Highlands, Panama retirement overseas, and International When Robert Cook sold his house and car, quit Living kept popping up. The more he his job and took off for Panama, his friends read, the more Panama seemed like the and family asked him if he was on drugs. place for him. That was six years ago and things have He now runs The Rock and the changed since then. They say they envy me Riverside Inn in Boquete. There are six now, Robert laughs. My stress level is way plush rooms that offer every luxury, down and Im much healthier. Robert attribfrom the oversized bathtubs to the utes this to his new home. He lives in Boquete large picture windows. Guests get a where there isnt a fast food joint on every room key and a front door key. They are a corner, where the vegetables and produce are encouraged to enjoy the common areasa rrow grown locally, and where walking is the presmall den-cum-library where you can borrow ferred mode of transportation. Not only that, a book, a sitting room with a cozy replace, but he also found love... and a sun room with an honor barwhere Robert met his wife Maria, a Panamanian, guests write down what they take from the on a blind date, and the rest, as they say, is fridge or the liquor cabinet, and are charged history. The pair discovered they had much in accordingly when they check out. commonespecially a love for Latin dance, With a wonderfully relaxed lifestyle and which Robert adores. an ultra-low cost of living (his three-bedroom Back in Kansas City, Robert had seen many apartment costs him $450 a month in rent) for people get laid-off with little more than a Robert, returning to the U.S. is not an option. thank you after years of loyalty. One day we This is home now, he says, and Ive never got to talking at work and joked about retiring regretted the movein fact, I would love for early, says Robert who worked as a sleep study my sisters to move here, too. technician. But I got home that night and Jessica Ramesch
Boquete, Panama.

Ajijic on the shores of Lake Chapala is one of the easiest places to resettle and do business.

Diane Pearl in her artisan st ore.

Being Here, its Like a Fountain of Youth


Name: Diane Pearl Age: 59 Nationality: U.S. Living in: Ajijic, Mexico In Diane Pearls view, taking a conventional retirement is the worst thing you can do for yourself; people start feeling old, she thinks, if they have nothing to doand its all downhill from there. No chance of that with Dianeor with the place shes called home for the last eight years: Ajijic, Mexico, on the shores of Lake Chapala.

Colonial Campeche, Mexico.


8 INTERNATIONAL LIVING FEBRUARY 2011

I was amazed right away, she says of Ajijic. There is so much to do here, and the combination of people is incredible. In fact, she believes, people nd so much to do here that they actually start feeling younger and more energized. Being here its like a Fountain of Youth. Its certainly proven true for Diane. Her enthusiasmfor her shop (called D.P. Collections), her friends, and her life in Ajijicis contagious. The afternoon I visit at her shop, she entertains a steady stream of friends and passersby who clearly make this a regular stop on their strolls. Dianes arts emporium sits on a busy corner in the heart of Ajijic, just a few blocks from the lake. The large shop has several rooms and levels, all lled with Mexicanand expat-made arts and crafts. Paintings, masks and murals cover the walls; shelves are lled with Mexican pottery, expat-crafted jewelry and striking table lamps of painted parchment and other materials. A few expats browse through the rooms; the others have come just to see Diane. They chat cheerfully and munch the cookies she keeps in a jar behind the counter. Care for a cookie? she asks, handing me one as she greets friends who have just walked in. Besides the cookies, she also keeps dog biscuits and candy, she tells me later. As much

JOEL CARRILET/iSTOCK

GLYNNA PRENTICE

as a shop, this has become a community center, she says. Diane came to Ajijic eight years ago and at rst, she operated her shop as a co-op with friends. She took over completely in about 2004; since then it has denitely evolved due to community needs, she says. Today about 20% of the merchandise she carries is expatmade; the rest is Mexican. The shops evolution reects Dianes own experience as an expat. Ive always been in the arts, she says. But in Ajijic she learned an important lesson: Everything that I had learned before didnt apply! She had to learn the language (she started Spanish lessons right away), as well as the routines and tastes of those in the area. Then there were the customs. Someone had to tell me that I needed to put up blue paper for Guadalupe, she says. (The Virgin of Guadalupe is patron saint of Mexico; her saints day is December 12.) Fortunately, the Lake Chapala area is, Diane says, one of the easiest places to resettle. Its a community destination, she says. Today, with a successful business, a circle of friends, and a role in the local community, Diane considers Ajijic her home. I dont have great expectations for living in the States anymore, she says. And besides, theres all the fun and activ-

ity that daily life in her shop brings her. Its theater for me. I can play. Glynna Prentice

A Perfect Destination for Wine Lovers


Name: Michael Young Age: 60 Nationality: U.S. Living in: Brazil I thrive on new adventures and places. Ive spent time in Asia and Central America, but before moving to Brazil two years ago, Id never set foot in South America. Im drawn to dynamic places that have a strong economy and good prospects for the future. Brazil ts this prole. My wife is Brazilian, and we live in the capital of the state of Paran, called Curitiba. It is a city of 1.8 million, and quite modern with nearly all the amenities you could want. My wife is a university professor. We travel around Brazil as much as possible. We enjoy the nearby oceanfront town of Balnerio Cambori, and the fabulous small town of Gramado farther south. Because of the strong economy, I have been doing some small-scale real estate investing, which has

excellent prospects. We also want to develop a small travel businesstourism in Brazil has enormous potential. We particularly like the wine country of Rio Grande do Sul, an area around the town of Bento Gonalves. For many years, I worked in the California wine business. Ive traveled to most wine regions of the world, including those well known in Argentina and Chile. The Brazilian wine business is in an earlier stage of development. The wines are good but hardly known outside of Brazil. The sparkling wines are particularly nice. And the wine country is beautiful, with scenery to rival any in the world. It features one of the most stunning estate wineries anywhere, Villa Francioni: the perfect destination for wine lovers. The people are friendly and accepting. Its easier to make friends here, and fewer formalities exist. Its quite acceptable to just show up to visit friends or familyyoull be welcomed. People appreciate my efforts at Portuguese and always ask where I am from. Professional service providers such as dentists and doctors are much more personal here. They get to know you and are easily available by phone to discuss any issues. The food is abundant and good, especially the tropical fruits. And they have a unique restaurant system at lunch called buffet por quilo. This is a self-service buffet where you weigh your food and pay by the kilo. The selection is excellent, and you get exactly what and as much as you want. Brazil is a huge and diverse country, much like the U.S. Its enormous coastline often attracts people, but it also has the second-largest city in the Americas (So Paulo), the Amazon, immense agricultural lands, mountainous areas and a number of smaller attractive cities. Michael Young Brasilia
Goiania Belo Horizonte Vitoria

UTE HAGEN PHOTOGRAPHY/GETTY IMAGES.

BRAZIL
Sao Paulo Curitiba Rio de Janeiro

South
Florianopolis Atlantic

Ocean

Porto Alegre

FEBRUARY 2011 INTERNATIONAL LIVING 9

Travel for Free By Darius Fisher

How to Make Your Home Pay for Itself While You Travel
Have your house pay for your trip to see magnicent murals in the Belles Artes Museum, Mexico City.

ver had the itch to travel but found that household bills meant you had to put your vacation plans on hold? Its not always possible to pay for that well-deserved break upfront and still cover the cost of mortgage payments or rent back home. Well, travel just got a lot easier with a new online marketplace called AirBnB.com. Now you can rent your place out while youre on the road, cover some bills, or just put a few extra bucks toward the cost of your trip. In November, my girlfriend Amanda Jacobsen and I started planning a trip to Mexico City. But on top of her rent, Amanda didnt have the cash to travel. Did we resign ourselves to a staycation, chain-watching episode after episode of HBOs The Wire? No. Instead, we decided to use AirBnB to rent her apartment during our planned trip. That way, her rent was covered and we could focus on exploring every corner of Mexicos metropolis. Listing on AirBnB is simpleand free. All you have to do is upload photos and write a brief description of your living space, be it a studio apartment, three-bedroom house or a cottage in the woods, and then wait for a
10 INTERNATIONAL LIVING FEBRUARY 2011

potential guest to message you. (Conversely, when youre traveling, you can also use AirBnB to nd a place to stay. The website has listings in over 8,000 cities in more than 163 countries around the world.) Amanda lives in a cozy one-bedroom cabin on Potrero Hill, a residential neighborhood in San Francisco. The place is quaint and quiet but certainly not luxurious: You have to climb three hills and two ights of stairs to get to her front door. As we built her AirBnB prole, we werent sure anyone would be interested in her place. Who wants to climb hills on vacation? We listed the place for $60 a night and

Make Your Trip Pay


When youre on the road, you can make your trip pay, too. Did you know that if youre willing to report on what you see and do and what youd recommend to othersjust like you might in an e-mail home to friendsyou can get paid for that? Heres a great shortcut to learning how: Intliving.com/travelwriters.

hoped for the best. The next morning, we awoke to an inquiry from a middle-aged German woman who wanted to rent for six nights. The woman was traveling on the west coast and sought a quiet place to stayAmandas place looked like a perfect t. We exchanged messages. We conrmed dates. And two days later, the woman booked. AirBnB handled all payments and deducted a cuta transaction fee of 3% from our end. To protect both parties, AirBnB holds the payment in escrow until 24 hours after the rst day of the reservation. In total, Amanda made $360roughly the cost of her airfare to Mexico. Based out of San Francisco, AirBnB was founded by friends who wanted to rent out three airbeds in their living room during a design conference (hence the name). Since then, over a million nights have been booked through the website. Of course there are risks involved, tooa place can be left a mess, stolen cutlery, or a space that doesnt look as advertised. One way the website mitigates the possibility of a stay gone wrong is by encouraging users to leave reviews about their experiences. That way, when considering a rental, you can check out reviews to make sure a guest or host is trustworthy. Intrigued? Here are a few tips to make your AirBnB experience as smooth as possible. Respond promptly to all requests, even if youre declining a reservation. The higher your response rate, the higher your listing shows up in AirBnB search results. Post high-quality photos of your space. Also make sure to have a picture of yourself on your prole. Having a real face next to a listing is more enticing to potential guests. Rent to people whove rented before. A person with a track record is preferable to a rst-time user. Ask for reviews. Once a guest has left your spot, solicit a review. Most guests, if theyve enjoyed the stay, will happily oblige. A listing with reviews increases your credibility, making it more likely your place gets booked. Isnt that the whole point of using AirBnB in the rst place?

STOCKCAM/iSTOCK

Health Care By Glynna Prentice

Take Your Health Insurance Overseas


ne of the biggest benets of moving abroad is the possibility of gaining access to good, inexpensive health care. In so many of the countries we cover regularlylike Mexico, Ecuador and Panama, for instanceyoull nd you can get care as good (and perhaps better) than what youre used to. And it will cost you half or even less what you pay up north. Heres what you need to know about your options: What non-U.S. health insurance options are available to you? International policies: International executives and others who travel a lot to many different countries often get worldwide policies that cover them everyplace they go. These plans are genuinely international. The companies offering these plans are used to dealing with a far-ung group of clients. Theyre likely to have a customer service department and at least some Englishspeaking staff. That can be a big plus if you need to call or e-mail about processing claims or getting reimbursements. But these policies sometimes only cover major medical, so if you need more comprehensive coverage, be sure to check that its included. Also, ask how the company handles reimbursement claims and how long processing takes. If the claims ofce is half a world away, for instance, see if it accepts faxed or digitally-scanned receipts for faster processing. International health insurance companies include BUPA and Health Care International, among many others. True international plans offer some conveniences but can cost more than other options, so evaluate whether you need one. Unless you plan to divide your time among several countries abroad, they may offer more than you need. Country-specic policies: If you plan to spend most of your time in a single country abroad, consider a country-specic policy. Its practical, focused on your needsand probably costs lessthan a full international plan. Some large international health insurers also offer country-specic policies. BUPA is one of these; it has a Latin American division with ofces in Mexico, Ecuador and the Dominican Republic. Blue Cross Blue Shield operates in Panama. If youre retired U.S. military, note that TRICARE is also widely

accepted in Panama. In most countries youll also nd large national insurance companies that offer health insurance in their suite of products. In Mexico, Grupo Nacional Provincial is one of the largest national insurers. In Ecuador theres Salud, S.A. Panama has ASSAwhich has recently expanded into Costa Rica. With a country-specic policy, ask about the breadth and depth of an insurers provider networkespecially for the region where you plan to live. As with international policies, ask how reimbursement is handled; you may need to open a local bank account where reimbursements can be wired. Most importantly, since this policy only covers you in one country, consider what youll do for coverage when you travel elsewhere such as vacations back to the U.S. Some plans offer short-term international coverage for just these situations. If a plan doesnt, see if you can add a rider for this. Note that youll be limited in how many days or months you can be abroadthat is, outside your plans base country. But some limits are really generous. Do you qualify for a new private health insurance policy? Insurance companies worldwide have a lot of things in common. Among these are the limits they put on coverage. Generally speaking, companies wont issue you a new health insurance policy if youre age 65 or olderthough theyll continue an existing policy past this age. (A few companies, such as Health Care International, will issue new policies up to age 75.) And they wont cover pre-existing conditions in a new policy no matter what your age. If youre over the age limit for a private
Expats in Mexico can choose from a range of health insurance options.

policy, check whether the country youre considering has a nationalized health plan; you may still qualify to enroll in this. Ecuador, Costa Rica, France and Mexico are among the countries with nationalized plans. How easily can your pre-existing conditions be managed, and what do they cost? A health-care insurer certainly will exclude any pre-existing conditions you have when it issues you a new health insurance policy. Some health plans make an exception for an illness after a waiting period of three to ve years, provided that you are symptom-free and require no treatment during the waiting period. (Pregnancyno kiddingfalls into this category. Some cancers may also qualify.) But chronic illnesses dont meet this requirement, including common ailments like asthma, allergies, heart and lung disease, high cholesterol, high blood pressure and diabetes. To be conservative, assume that youll need to pay out-of-pocket for pre-existing conditions. Fortunately, the lower costs for health care abroad makes this much more affordable. Can you get your prescriptions? Medicines for common health conditions like asthma, diabetes, high blood pressure, or any of the other usual suspects are easy to nd. Your existing medicine may well be available in your new country. It may even be sold without a prescription. Ask for drugs by their brand name. If a drug is still on patent and available in the local market, it probably will be known by its brand name. Brand-name drugs usually cost less than they would in the U.S. (as little as half ). But they still cost much more than generics.

Where to Go for Care


Youll be pleasantly surprised by the high-quality, American-accredited medical options you have abroadcare that can cost up to 80% less than you typically pay today. We share all the secrets about where to go, who to see, and how to save in Slash Your Health Care Costs: The Worlds Top 7 Destinations for High-Quality, Good-Value Care. Details here: Intliving.com/healthcare.

AGNES CSONDOR/iSTOCK

FEBRUARY 2011 INTERNATIONAL LIVING 13

Travel By Paul Lewis

When Youve Exhausted Londons Charms, Day Trip to Oxford

ity of dreaming spires and of lost causes, Oxford is the obvious destination for anyone who has exhausted Londons charms and wants a day trip outside the capital. Its only fty miles away and easy to get to, thanks to a curiously named company called Oxford Tube, which every 15 minutes sends a red double decker bus there from a dedicated stop on Buckingham Palace Road just beside Victoria Station. The round-trip fare is a mere $12.60 for the hour-and-twenty-minute trip each way. Once the metropolis is behind you, its a bucolic ride across the soft plains of Buckinghamshire towards Headington where the road turns sharply down Boar Hill to the towers of Magdalen College on the banks of the Isis, as the Thames is known while it meanders through the city. Oxford is changing fast and not for the better, so it is important to get there quickly. Its greatest glorythe 36 colleges dotted around the centerhardly change at all. But the city itself has become a major tourist destination. Its splendid High Street, all the little streets winding off it and noble Broad Street, running from the Bodleian Library to the massive honey colored stone hulk of Balliol College, are packed year round with out-of-town visitors, speaking all the tongues of Babel.

The most beautiful college is Magdalen with its deer park and walks.
The result is that the town no longer feels like a town; its shops are tourist shops, selling souvenirs and sandwiches or changing money. No one living in Oxford would come to the center to buy anything they needed. And the colleges who own the shops do nothing to hamper this evolution. With ominous nancial storm clouds hanging over British higher education these days, they just want to maximize their income. These medieval, grey stone colleges are what you have really come to see, of course, and you want to see as much as possible of

l libraries, but also thousands of b bottles of wine in college cellars. Christ Church is the most glamo orous college to visit. The scene o much of Evelyn Waughs novel of B Brideshead Revisited, it is a kind of P Princely State within the University. It dons are called Students and its Its st students call it The House. Its chapel is a cathedral. Alice in Wonderland w inspired by the Deans Garden. was An at 9:05 p.m. each day the clock in And To Quad chimes 101 times for each Tom of its original members. Perhaps the most beautiful col college, though, is Magdalen with its deer park, Isis walks and Oscar Wi Wildes initials scratched on a window pan Both Corpus Christ and Oriel are pane. out outstanding among the smaller college while Trinity has the Universitys leges nest lawn and gardens. ne T The Ashmolean, Oxfords most them f h from the i id as well as the out. Here i famous museum and also Britains rst public h inside ll h is f how to do it. one, has just emerged from a major restoraAll are open to the public for some part of tion which has left it sleek and modern while the day though not always at the most constill preserving the sense of being the private venient times. But they are open all the time to collection of a slightly eccentric connoisseur. students and dons (as the Universitys teachers And since visitors get a list of its 21 greatest are called ). So a little chutzpah is in order treasures, they can move swifty from Lawpretend you are Gown not Town. rence of Arabias ceremonial robes, to Guy Grasping a learned book or two in your Fawkes Lantern, from the Alfred Jewel to hand, march purposefully through the ancient Stradivarius Messiah violin. wooden gates and disappear into the quadranNot to be missed, equally, is the Natural gles beyond, without so much as a glance at History Museum on Parks Road, a Victorian that glass box containing a porter employed to building of painted iron that feels like a keep you out. railway station. It contains the remains of an You then enter a world of dark stone extinct dodo which also makes an appearance passageways opening suddenly onto sunny in Alice in Wonderland. quadrangles, green lawns of a brightness It was here on June 30, 1860 that Soapy that attests to centuries of careful rolling and Sam Wilberforce, Bishop of Oxford, held tendering, and ower beds under the leaded a legendary debate on evolution with T.H. window panes. Every college has its chapel and Huxley that some say ushered in the modern its Hall, or enormous dining room. age of Oxfordthe age of tolerant skeptiRemember that these colleges were founded cism. When the Bishop sarcastically inquired mainly in medieval days as acts of piety to whether Huxley claimed descent from an ape train the clergy and are endowed with vast on his grandfathers or his grandmothers side, estates which enabled those who taught there the great scientist replied, I would rather be to lead comfortable lives of learning. Under descended from an ape than a bishop. Oxfords narrow cobbled streets lie not only The buses go back to London every 15 minmillions of books in the stacks of college utes from the central bus station.
Oxford is an idyllic escape from London and easy to reach.
FEBRUARY 2011 INTERNATIONAL LIVING 15

IZABELA HABUR/iSTOCK

Lifestyle By Dena Haines

How Our Young Family Launched a New Life in Cuenca, Ecuador


ust one year ago, my husband Bryan and I pondered our quandary. We needed a change. But here we were in our 30s with a young daughter. How do you nd more time to enjoy life when you have a family to raise and the cost of living continues to rise? Were not alone in this predicament, I know. First you complain about being too busy, then you dream of nding a way to have more time. Next you desperately search for a way to get out of the rat race Thats as far as lots of folks get. But we took the next step and made the great escape. Today we live in Cuenca, Ecuador. Its a beautiful colonial city in the Andes Mountains. The climate is spring-like year round and the cost of living is signicantly lower than that in Canada or the States. The medical facilities are wonderful, the crime rate is low and the people are friendly. Life here is relaxed, peaceful and tranquil. We now have much more time for family days. In Canada these mini-vacations were few and far between. But now we take full- or half-day family breaks at least three times a week.

On a regular family day we often wake up early, make breakfast together, pack the backpack and catch the bus to one of the local parks. After enjoying a game of Frisbee and a picnic, we walk along one of the rivers, stop and check out some artisan jewellery, and then pop into a caf for a treat. On our way home we pick up a movie, stock up on groceries (for a fraction of what theyd have cost us up north), and then settle in for the evening at home. How did we pull this off ? With a lot of planning, some hard work, and a spirit of adventure We were living a very normal life back in small town Nova Scotia, on the East Coast of Canada. We had a house with a backyard, a car, a camper trailer and an advertising business. Our basement was cluttered with all the stuff we had collected over the past 10 years of married life. Were we happy? Yes. Were we happy enough? No. We were so busy taking care of our home (a xer upper) and running our own business that we didnt have enough time for the more important things in life. We started looking for a change, but everywhere in our own hemisphere was basically the same, requiring similar income to sustain our way of life. So we broadened our horizons. The search was on Many long conversations followed about where we could see ourselves being happy. The climate, infrastructure, safety, population, culture and legal requirements were all hot topics. We collected information about each country on our radar and then discussed it as a family. The task seemed overwhelming, but through a process of elimination our choice became very clear. Every family may be different, but one thing that always holds true: The entire family has to be happy in their new home in order to make a move like this a success. Initially, we pictured ourselves in a hot climate, but we decided on living in a moderate one and to vacation somewhere warm. In Ecuador that meant living in
GHIARA HUGO

16 INTERNATIONAL LIVING FEBRUARY 2011 N RNA ONA NG BR AR

HUGO GHIARA

Year-round spring-like weather and a low cost of living makes Cuenca, Ecuador, an idyllic haven.

the highlands, where weather is spring-like all year round, and vacationing in places like Salinas, one of Ecuadors charming Pacic Coast towns, where you can bask in the sun on golden-sand beaches and then cool off in the ocean. Once we got to that point, we found some blogs on Cuenca and got in touch with some people doing exactly what we wanted to do. They answered a lot of our questions and dealt with many of our concerns. We also got in touch with the Ecuadorian consulate for our area to start the visa process. This was not as daunting as we thought it might be; the people at the consulate were very helpful and patient. The next step was vaccinationa process that takes about six months. In the meantime, we began selling on consignment the things we wouldnt needand trading them for money in our pockets. We prepped our house for sale and started the search for potential buyers for our business. The plan was to begin using the money from the sale of our house and business to nance our lives in Ecuador until we could secure part-time work there. Once we had a buyer for the house, we began listing our larger furniture online, and it sold really fast. We found ourselves eating at the plastic patio furniture, and sleeping on the oor until we moved in with our parents for our nal month in Canada. During that last month, our business sold, and we had marathon yard sales to get rid of everything except what would t into our suitcases. Everything came together with perfect timing, and now here we are enjoying life in Ecuador with no plans of moving back. We only have to work part time because the cost of living is so much lower here. Bryan and I both write for About.com, which is a New York Times company. We are learning a new language, experiencing a new culture, and traveling around what is one of the most beautifully diverse places weve ever seen. When we arrived, we didnt speak any Spanish, which was really challenging for our family, but I think we are stronger and closer because of it. When my daughter and I are off on one of our many enjoyable walks, she often takes my hand, looks up at me and says I love it here, Mom, Im so glad we came. She is 10-years-old now and really enjoying the change of pace. She loves having more time with us, and its so fullling to see her mind expanding ever wider as she becomes uent in the language and comfortable in the

culture. There are so many enjoyable little things about watching her adjust that we didnt anticipate, like watching her barter for a lower price on some handmade jewellery at a local market, or seeing her work up the nerve to join in the fun with some local children at the playground. We havent experienced any surprises we cant handle, and we have more time to spend doing the things we love. Yet people ask us: How could you sell all that stuff with so many memories tied to it? How could you take that leap of faith with your nances?

Life here is relaxed, peaceful and tranquil. We now have much more time for family days.
Admittedly, making this change wasnt the easiest thing in the world to do. Some people thought we were crazy (and told us so), and some miss us terribly, as we miss them. But life is like that sometimes; sometimes you have to go through something hard to get to something better. Now were putting down new roots and watching our family blossom and grow in new directions. We easily keep in touch with loved ones from home through e-mail and Skype, sometimes talking to them more than we did when we lived closer. And we realized that it wasnt the belongings we needed, it was the memories attached to them, and those are still with us. History is full of people pulling up and heading out for new lands. This may not be for everyone, but it certainly is for us.

Your Blueprint for Getting Overseas


In the right places overseas, you can live better than you ever could back homefor less than $1,700 a month. And you dont have to spend years guring out whereor how. Editors Dan Prescher and Suzan Haskins reveal their step-by-step blueprint for getting from where you are now to a place thats perfect for you. It took them years to gure it all out. But you can have all their secrets in one fell swoop, here: Intliving.com/Ros.

FEBRUARY 2011 INTERNATIONAL LIVING 17

Travel

Six Romantic Ways to Enjoy Valentines Day Overseas

he thrill of a new shoreline on the horizonthat rst glimpse of a strange city from the airplane windowat its heart, travel is about romance. And more than any other month, February is, too. Thats why we thought wed mark St Valentines Day by answering the question: If you live overseas and every day has something a bit special in store, what can you do to make February 14 remarkable? Our editors each supply an answerand theyre as varied as they are enticing. On a day when, Stateside, ower stores and chocolatiers hike their prices, you could be gliding on the canals of Venice, taking tea in a Mock-Tudor mansion in Uruguay, or walking on clouds in Ecuador...heres how...

tropical forests, home to colorful varieties of hummingbirds, quetzals, toucans and more. Afterwards, well soak beneath the stars in a heated pool before retiring to our private cabana overlooking the moonlit jungle. A lodge that comes well-recommended is Casa Puerto Valla rtas Divina, in Mindo: Mindocasa Romatic Zon e. divina.com.Suzan Haskins

Vacation in Vallarta, Mexico


You dont have to be in love to enjoy Puerto Vallarta or even be with a special someone. But if you are, this resort city on Mexicos Pacic Coast can denitely enhance the romantic vibes. Vallarta sits on one of the worlds largest and most beautiful bays, Banderas Bay, and the city makes good use of it. Stroll the walkway along the shoreline and look out to sea as the lights in the city come on in the evening. Stop to take pictures by one of the statues that grace the seafront area. Explore the cobblestone streets of Vallartas historic centeraptly named the Romantic Zoneand have an intimate dinner for two in a candlelit restaurant. Or walk down to the seafront and eat at a table on the beach, your toes digging into the sand as you listen to the waves lap nearby. And, if you can, come during the spring turtle-release season and spend an evening watching newly-hatched baby turtles race to the sea. If that doesnt bring on the warm and fuzzies, then clearly youre immune to romance. Where to stay: Boutique hotel Hacienda San Angel, its colonial villas overlooking the city and bay, offers bundles of Mexican charm and romance. (See: Haciendasanangel.com). Glynna Prentice

Love Springs Eternal in Ecuador


The Land of Eternal Spring may not be the rst place that comes to mind when planning an amorous rendezvous. But dont discount it as a romantic destination. In fact, dont discount the discounts. What you save on a dozen long-stemmed roses (cost: just $2) can be spent on a candle-lit dinner for two ($30 or less, including wine and dessert) at a bistro like Doa Esthers in the high-Andes mountain town of Otavalo. Ecuador has something for everyone from the magically alluring Galapagos Islands and sun-kissed tropical beaches of the Pacic Coast to the rustic-chic eco-lodges of the Amazon basin. Cities like Quito and Cuenca are home to 500-year-old colonial centers that drip with history and romance, where after exploring a gold-ligreed cathedral, you can wander down a winding, cobblestone street to a tiny caf for a canelazoa warm cinnamon aperitifin front of a roaring re. This year Ill be taking my sweetheart for a walk in the cloudsliterally. At the Mindo Nambillo Cloud Forest well hike along the banks of crystal-clear rivers through lush
18 INTERNATIONAL LIVING FEBRUARY 2011

Afternoon Tea in Uruguay


In Uruguays exclusive seaside resort of Punta del Este, international visitors often come to stay in luxurious seaside mansions, posh casinos, or gleaming condos. But less than two miles outside of town, youll nd what may be the most-romantic hideaway on the Uruguayan coast: Hotel LAuberge. LAuberge is a Tudor-style country hotel, set in a tranquil area surrounded by towering pines. A quiet beach is just a few blocks away. Adorned with antiques and works of art, its a charming mix of the English-manor style, blended with French pastels

PHILIP AND KAREN SMITH/GETTY IMAGES

Venice: A Warped Romance


I thrill to her stories; loathe her whorish greed. But Id never deter anyone from visiting Venice. For me, the romance is that La Serenissima is doomed. One day she will vanish forever. Venice is at her most mysterious on foggy winter evenings. The cruise ships and daytrippers are gone, the piazzas almost empty. You suddenly understand the magic. Jewelre reections of pink, coral and topaz dance across the canals. Basilicas, bridges, palaces they seem like images from a half-remembered dream. The darkness makes temptation harder to resist. Breathing bittersweet decadence, this was Casanovas citya playground for reckless assignations and ill-starred affairs. Venice begs you to be wicked. She wants things to end in tears for you, too. For time is as cruel as any faithless lover. You can almost hear its mocking laughter, its grim tick-tock. As each year passes, the harlequin mask slips a little further. Buildings decay and crumble. The population dwindles. And the lagoon just bides its time. Where to stay: A studio for two in a 16thcentury Castello quarter house rents for $1,191 weekly. On Campo Arsenale, its windows have a view of the lions guarding Venices ancient shipyards. (See: Venice-rentals.com). Steenie Harvey

and the most comfortable rooms on the Pacic Coast of PanamaIm talking plush pillows and the best linens, and gorgeous bathrooms with tubs. Your main squeeze will love you for itJessica Ramesch

Paris: Romancing the Stones


For some of us, romance is about shadows, nocturnes and gothic graveyards...soft rain on slate roofs...the blue twilight hour that the French call lheure bleu. Paris delivers on all counts. It may sound odd, but I love wandering among the stone crypts, mossy tombs and fallen angels of Pre Lachaise cemetery. Even in gray February, its a mesmerizing haunt to write a poem, muse on life, or remember an old lover. Birds sing in bare trees, cats prowl secret pathways. Founded in 1804, its 118 acres contain over 70,000 monuments. Most visitors seek the graves of the famousChopin, Edith Piaf or Jim Morrison. Covered in scarlet lipstick kisses, Oscar Wildes tomb always reminds me of a love letter. Bizarre efgies include that of lion-tamer Jean-Baptiste Pezonriding Brutus, the lion that killed him. Then theres Victor Noir, a 19th-century Parisian journalist and lothario. Tradition tells that kissing Victors life-size efgy and caressing his bulging groin aids fertility and love. And yes, the relevant part is highly-polished. Where to stay: In LHotel, a former palace that was Oscar Wildes last mortal residence. Doubles start at $331 per night. (See: L-hotel. com).Steenie Harvey

TINA LORIEN/iSTOCK

Have Venice to yourself in winter, when its at its most mysterious and romantic.

Old-School Romance on Playa Blanca


Vast stretches of white sands that are never crowded with sun-worshippersinviting turquoise blue waters, warmed by the sun just you and your honey and a couple of pia coladas If it sounds like the perfect romantic getaway, thats because it is. Playa Blanca, just a couple hours by car from Panama City, Panama, is my favorite place to get away from it all. The beach is one of the prettiest on this stretch of the Pacic, without wild parties and kids wreaking havoc on three- and fourwheelers. Though theres a resort with a tiny disco, theres no real nightlife to speak of just lots of pretty views and plenty of time to enjoy them. Book a stay at the Playa Blanca Hotel and Resort (see: Playablancaresort.com). The hotel offers sports and leisure options, good food,

Y/iSTOCK CHRISTIAN WHEATLE

in the style of Provence. All rooms are luxurious, and you can enjoy views of its lush garden and glistening pool or even stay at the top of its landmark tower, overlooking the woods and ocean. Some rooms have Jacuzzis, some have replaces, and all are cozy and warm. Aside from its signature tower, LAuberge is well-known for its tea salon and garden. The afternoon tea is always a hit with guestsbut its also a long-standing tradition with local residents, who particularly enjoy the freshbaked wafes and thick hot chocolate on a winter afternoon. Youll nd LAuberge on Playa Brava, in Barrio Club de Golf. (See: Laubergehotel.com). Lee Harrison

Nothing says I love you like a tropical beach.

FEBRUARY 2011 INTERNATIONAL LIVING 19

Insider Intelligence By Regina Winkle-Bryan

Barcelona: Five Places for Drinks with a View

ot too long ago elevators were a rare sight in Barcelona, Spains Mediterranean metropolis. That meant that luxury digs were never on the top oor, but on the rst oor or Principal (not to be confused with the ground oor). Savvy visitors will note that in older Barcelona apartment buildings it is always the Principal oor that has the grandest window gallery. The wealthy lived on the rst and second oors leaving the birds-eye views to the servants who had to huff and puff up 10 ights of stairs to get to their quarters. But things have changed These days the best apartments, hotel rooms, clubs, bars and restaurants are the ones on top. Whether it is a view of the city glittering at night, a glimpse of the boxylooking Montjuic Mountain, or vistas of the Mediterranean Sea, locals in the know go up when they go out. Ive sampled my fair share of breezy rooftop bars and restaurants with stunning cityscapes (for research purposes, of course). And while the boom season for rooftop refreshment is from May to September, there are plenty of cocktail lounges where drinks are served up with views all year round. Prices tend to rise the higher up in stories you go. The reason for this is location, location, location. Not too many places in Barcelona have rooftop lounges, and there is nothing sweeter than seeing the city spread out before you with the Med glimmering in the distance while sipping a golden glass of cava (Catalan champagne). Many of the citys best panoramas are found at its four- and ve-star hotels. La Florida is located near the top of Barcelonas verdant mountain, Mount Tibidabo, at 1,640 feet above sea-level. Even if you cant stay at Hotel La Florida, you should go for a drink at its Bar Miramar. From here you can look out across the entire city to the Mediterranean in the distance. Theres no subway service up the mountain but you can catch a cab for $20. Go at sunset when the lights of the metropolis begin to

You can enjoy a view of the whole city from the Bar Miramar.

wink below. Flanked on one side by the hotels 88-foot-long pool, Miramar Bar is open-air but covered, offering year-round drinks and light menu items. For something more hearty and gourmet, the hotels LOrangerie restaurant is worth a visit. Observe the city spread out below while relishing in helmeted guinea-fowl, thistle mushrooms and date cannelloni, monksh carpaccio and cold mango coulants. Main dishes cost around $29 to $43. (See: Hotellaorida.com.) If you prefer to watch the turquoise waters of the Med lap up on the shores of Barcelona over dirty martinis, there is no better place than the modern Eclipse Bar in the brand-new Hotel W. Eclipse Bar describes itself as ultra-exclusive, but that seems to be an exaggeration. Eclipse is open to all comers, as long as guests are not wearing ipops and Bermuda shorts. The bar has its own elevator that whisks guests up to the 26thoor where they are met by walls of windows looking over Port Vell and the sea. Loungestyle sofas zigzag through the bar inviting you to kick back and indulge yourself with a

couple of delicious, though pricey, $20 cocktailsor just grab a beer for a more reasonable $8. (See: W-barcelona.com). After drinks at Eclipse take a ve-minute walk along the seashore to Torre dAlta Mar. Take the restaurants private elevator at the base of the Torre Sant Sebasti (cable car point), and head up 245 feet to this unique Mediterranean eatery. Take in views of the city, mountains Montjuic and Tibidabo, the beach and yacht-lled port. Torre dAlta Mar serves a daily lunch menu for $63.67. This may seem a bit pricey, but the vistas and gourmet fare are worth the splurge. A perfect place to go for a special occasion. Choose from tasty plates such as rigatoni stuffed with shrimp and lobster, scallops with artichokes, grilled foie gras with eggplant, or a classic sirloin steak with grated potatoes and parmesan mousse. (See: Torredealtamar.com/main_en.html). For another classic ve-star stunner, pop into the Hotel Majestic for nibbles and nightcaps at Gourmet Bar. Located on the hotels 10th oor, it offers up privileged peeks of the citys Eixample neighborhood along its prestigious main drag, Passeig de Grcia. This is the ideal spot for weary sightseers. Passeig de Grcia is where youll nd some of the citys most famous Modernista buildings like Casa Batllo, Casa Fuster and La Pedrera. And in the Gourmet Bar you can savor a glass of Priorat wine while enjoying a view of Gauds Sagrada Familia Cathedral and the citys central hub, Plaza Catalunya. In the summer months, as night falls, this place transforms into Bar Dolce Vita (May to September9 p.m. to 1 a.m.). Dolce Vita and Gourmet share the same simple menu: Shrimp, sh, clam ceviche, sushi rolls, and traditional Spanish tapas such as Iberian ham, Manchego cheese, and anchovies from Cantabria. Cocktails at Dolce Vita could be followed by dinner at one of the hotels many reputable restaurants. (See: Hotelmajestic.es). If youre in Barcelona during the warmer part of the year, check out central Hotel Pulitzers rooftop bar, Visit Up. This is a stylish, laid-back bar. Anyone can attend but an invitation is necessary. You can ask for an invitation ahead of time by e-mailing miercoles@ doyouvisitbarcelona.com. (See: Hotelpulitzer.es).
FEBRUARY 2011 INTERNATIONAL LIVING 21

ALEX CASTELLA/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR

BARCELONA SNAPSHOTS/CREATIVE COMMONS/FLICKR

Corsica: The Affordable French Island Youve Never Heard of

he luminous hour before sunset is special. Every bay is a brilliant turquoise. Villages take on a honeyed glow; vineyards are dusted with gold; mountain crags are orange. Out to the west, rocky islets change from dusky pink to a deep blood-red. Dramatic, unspoiled, sensual. This is Corsica, Frances le de Beaut (Isle of Beauty). Anchored 100 miles south off the Cte dAzur, its a mystery island to most North Americans. History buffs may pinpoint it as Napoleons birthplace, but thats about it. French and Italian vacationers have long enjoyed its silver beaches and azure-blue seas. But to the rest of the world, Corsica is so far under the radar that even a travel writer can forget its the western Mediterraneans third-

largest island. Its relative obscurity helps explain why, on average, square-meter property prices are at least $1,329 less on Corsica than elsewhere on the Cte dAzur. Its not bargain-basement pricing, but relatively speaking, I did see some good values. And Id forgotten how beautiful Corsica is. Its 800-mile coastline is punctuated with small resorts, shing ports and medieval citadel towns that could have been stolen from Italy. There are orchards, chestnut woods and olive groves...the balconies of bougainvilleadraped hill villages look out over the sea. Everywhere the air is perfumed with sage and rosemary, myrtle and eucalyptus. This is the maquisthe islands aromatic shrubby

covering. The name maquis was adopted by the French Resistance movement during World War II. You can see why. The farther inland you go, the more it feels like a lost world. Any outlaw or resistance ghter couldnt wish for better terrain in which to hide out. Corsica is untameda 5,000-square-mile wilderness of shadowland forests and granite mountains twisted into bizarre crags. Wild boar and birds of prey are plentiful. A hikers heaven of mule tracks link valleys and remote villages, but some places may still await the rst tread of human feet. Aside from the university town of Corte, most settlements of any size are within 15 miles of the coast. With Italy the nearest landfall, the climate is similar to the Italian

22 INTERNATIONAL LIVING FEBRUARY 2011

Feature Story By Steenie Harvey


Flavors and Food
Typical regional dishes include wild boar (sanglier), which appears in stews and terrines. Brocciu is a cheese made from ewes milk thats frequently used for stufng cannelloni pasta and eggplants. Charcuterie (cold cuts) are incredibly avorsome. Along with wafer thin prizuttu ham, another favorite is lonzu which is lean pork loin. Dont confuse gatellu with a ggy dessertits smoked liver sausage. Chestnuts appear in everything from preserves to beer. Pietra, an amber-colored ale, contains chestnut our. Most restaurants have three-course set menus at varying prices. About $26 is fairly typical for a dinner featuring hearty Corsican specialties.

Calvi is at the heart of Corsicas most popular stretch of coastline.

Rivieramild winters and hot summers. Spring delivers riots of wildowers; fall a harvest festival of grapes, mushrooms, olives, apricots and chestnuts. The summer lasts longer than anywhere in mainland France. Daytime temperatures in late October were in the low 70s F. Sun worshippers unfurled beach towels and took afternoon swims. More people wore shades than not, and it seemed criminal not to lunch outside. Admittedly, property isnt as inexpensive as in many other French regions on the mainland. After all, this is the Med. But on average, as I said, youll pay less here than you would for comparable homes elsewhere on the Cte dAzur.

If you have a passion for mountains, onebedroom apartments in Corte start around $79,764. If its the coast you want, Corsicas eastern half offers the best value. Seascapes arent overly dramatic, but theres no lack of wide golden beaches. And the Castagniccia hinterland unfolds into a world of old hill villages, chestnut woods and hiking trails. Two east coast towns that I like are San Nicolau and Moriani Plage. In the latter, a onebedroom apartment with a small terrace and sea view is $159,519 (see: Paoli-immobilier.com). If a view isnt important, reckon close to $120,000. Less than half-a-mile inland, twobedroom houses with a garden in Ste Lucie de Moriani start at $217,289. Furnished rental studios in Ajaccio, the island capital, start at around $600 a month. Along the east coasts Cte de Nacres (Motherof-Pearl Coast), I saw one- and two-bedroom rentals for $664 to $797 monthly. French Power, Italian style, Corsican Rebellion The Mediterranean powers of old all squabbled over Corsica. Greeks and Carthaginians; Romans, Pisans and Genoans. Even the British were hereCalvi was where Admiral Nelson lost his eye. The writer Balzac called Corsica a French island basking in the Italian sun. He was right, but only up to a point. Corsica has been French for less than 250 years. To foreign ears, the Corsican language sounds like an Italian dialect. Thats essentially what it isold Genoese. Before it was sold to the French, the island was ruled by Genoa

f for 500 years. The Genoans bequeathed a legacy of campanile bell towers, fortress towns like Bonifacio and Calvi, and numerous stone watchtowers from a time when fearsome North African pirates roamed the Mediterranean. Not everyone welcomes French rule. But Corsican separatists arent seeking to reestablish Italian ties. Their aim is to regain the independence briey enjoyed in the 18th centuryor at least greater autonomy. They also want to protect Corsica from the overdevelopment that blights so much of the Mediterranean. There are a couple of exceptions to the idyllic islandone is Bastia, a sprawling industrial port city. And bays around PortoVecchio are dense with holiday homes. There have been mutterings about the undesirability of ghost towns that remain empty for most of the year. Although the separatists are a minority, most Corsicans have an intense passion for a homeland that outsiders once traded like a commodity. A nationalistic streak runs through the islands psyche. The French tricolor might utter over town halls, but the Moors Head ag of Corsica ies everywhere else. Southern Corsica First stop, Bonifacio. Precariously perched on creamy cliffs, this citadel town looks across the Straits of Bonifacio to the Italian
FEBRUARY 2011 INTERNATIONAL LIVING 23

ELIANORIC/iSTOCK

LOUS-LA URENT GRAN DADAM/GE TTY IMAGES

Feature Story
island of Sardiniavisible on clear days. Ancient Greek legends tell that Bonifacios inhabitants once had some rather nasty eating habits. It was here where Odysseuss crew got bombarded with rocks and then devoured by the Laestrygonians, a race of ogres. Its fun exploring the narrow alleys of the Genoese upper town, the Haute Ville. Although its a tourist trapand the harbor has more fancy yachts and excursion boats than shing vesselsyou can forgive a lot when somewhere is so pretty. To be fair, if youre dining out prices arent too steep. I ate on the quayside where a cauldron of mussels with fries, bread and a glass of wine was 10. In France, service is always compris (included), so you neednt give extra tips. Locals dont. Properties in this area fetch substantial sums, particularly those with sea views. A couple of miles from beaches, a restored village house of 1,258 square feet with a distant view of the Mediterranean was $336,000 (see: Corse-immo.fr). Heading north-west, the road to Ajaccio (the capital), passes through the vendetta town of Sartne. Its probably too gray and forbidding-looking to tempt most home-buyers, but it would be unforgivable to miss it. One French writer once said: the whole town breathes war and vengeance. Thats an exaggeration nowadaysSartnes generational blood-feuds were a 19th-century phenomenon. Even so, you get the impression that some inhabitants wouldnt let an insult go unpunished. On Good Friday, a penitent in scarlet robes and hood stumbles through Sartnes streets in heavy leg chains. Carrying a giant cross, his face is entirely hidden. Only the priest knows the Catenaccius identityor for what sin the penance is being undertaken. A few miles away, Propriano is a small beach town that gets busy in summer. Few holidaymakers were around in October, but enough places were open to suggest its more than a tourist town. Judging by the piles of nets on the quayside, its a working port too. Coti Immobilier has some interesting options. Two minutes from the port, a 454-square foot-apartment in a residence with an elevator is $179,262. The same price buys a six-bedroom stone house to renovate in the nearby village of St Lucie de Tallano (see: Cotiimmoblier.com). If ancient standing stones thrill you, stop off at Filitosa. Dating back over 4,000 years, its the most important of Corsicas prehistoric sites. Corsicas Capital Ajaccio is the more attractive of Corsicas two cities. (Id give Bastia a miss.) Its small Genoese quarter was where Napoleon Bonaparte was born in 1769. Fittingly for an imperial birthplace, the city planners gave Ajaccio an extension of broad avenues, palm-lined squares, parks and a seafront promenade. Cours Napoleon is the main avenue, a milelong stretch between the center and a large harbor that serves both yachts and ferries from the mainland. I stayed out here, but the most prestigious residential area is le quartier des Etrangers. This Foreign Quarter gets its name from
No plan needed: Just climb the lanes of ancient villages and soak up the ambience.

NICHOLAS BELTON/iSTOCK

Getting There
There are no direct ights from North America to Corsica. With Air France, ights from JFK via Paris to Ajaccio are from $1,429 round-trip inclusive of taxes (see: Airfrance.com). Air Corsica ies from various French cities including Paris and Marseille. At the time of writing, a round-trip fare from Paris Orly was $375; from Marseille $224 (see: Aircorsica.com). Connecting from one of the London airports with budget airlines Easyjet or Ryanair could be a cheaper alternative, but ights stop in winter (see Easyjet.com and Ryanair.com).

the genteel English Victorians who overwintered in Ajaccio. The painter Matisse also spent ve months here, captivated by the colors and clear southern light. It has modern apartments, but also some lovely classical villas. Within walking distance of downtown, St Francois Plage is Ajaccios beach area. The views are stunning: sailboats bobbing across the Gulf of Ajaccio; the Old Town framed by distant mountains. I stopped at the promenade parks caf to watch the boules players, but it was difcult keeping tracksix games were happening simultaneously. Youngsters were also performing fearsome acrobatics on roller skates, skateboards and scooters in a specially-built arena. Ajaccios best beaches lie to the west along the Route des Sanguinaires. Flanked by modern villas and small apartment residences, the coast road unravels past golden coves and shore shing spots. After about 10 miles, you have to abandon the car and take a footpath to

24 INTERNATIONAL LIVING FEBRUARY 2011

KATA NAGY/iSTOCK

reach the Parata promontory and its Genoese watchtower. Offshore lie the Iles Sanguinaires, four islets that blaze red at sundown. Burning sunsets are one theory for the namein French, sang means blood. But its also suggested that the sanguinari were coral shermen returning from faraway lands. Before being allowed back on shore, they were quarantined on the islets to prevent the possible spread of infectious disease. Property prices in Ajaccio depend on the district. Also, the smaller the living area, the higher the square meter price. In the Old Town and along the Route des Sanguinaires, studios of around 375 square feet cost from $159,273 to $183,128. In the upper range, they come with a small terrace and a sea view. A number of agencies have ofces on Cours Napoleon. For a preview of Ajaccios sales and rental market, take a look at Actifimmobiler.fr and Secic.fr.

change. (See Etoileimmobilier.com). Built in the 18th century, Ile Rousse owes its name to a bulky red rock now linked to the town by a causeway. I liked the towns air of faded elegance, and it seemed more real than its glitzier neighbor. Most things center around Place Paoli, a shady square where locals meet up to gossip on caf-bar terraces and watch yet more boules. A covered market beside the square sells sh, fruit and vegetables and lots of Corsican specialties such as sausages, cheeses, and preserves. No view, but a 376-square-foot apartment is $152,555 through Ile Rousse agency (see: Calizimmo.com). A 763-square-foot duplex with sea and mountain views is $334,294. Above the coast, the Balagnes medieval hill villages are blessed with stupendous panoramas. Entranced by tales of pirate kidnappings and peculiar saints, I hoped to nd bargains. But locals realize that a maison de village with a million dollar view is valuable. $345,0 for an 860-square-foot, renovated $345,019 h village house in Monticello is at the low end of the range. Properties generally sell th through iCalvi or Ile Rousse agencies. The unspoile d East of the Balagne, much of the beach at Rondinara B co is only accessible from the sea or coast ay by taking lengthy hiking paths. With Pat Patrimonios vineyards on its doorstep, StSt-Florent is a pretty enough harbor tow but it didnt have enough wow factown, tor to justify the silly prices I saw in one agen agency. N North of Bastia, Cap Corse is a skinny prom promontory that sticks up like a sore thum As my visit coincided with French thumb. strike blocking ports and gas stations strikers runni dry, I couldnt risk the full 80-mile running circuit But from what I saw of the peninsucircuit. las eas eastern side, its probably more a location to visit th live full-timeits a long drive to a than decent supermarket. Erbalunga and MacinagThe North Coast and the Balagne gio are two of the main villages, but theyre Calvi and Ile Rousse share the spoils of the very quiet and small. north-west coast. With an airport close by, Bear in mind that village living in Corsica Calvi vies with Porto-Vecchio in the south-east would require a car as local public transport as Corsicas number one holiday hotspot. is limited. Note that roads can be perilously Crowned by a 13th-century citadel, Calvi helter-skelter, local drivers have an inbuilt is as handsome as some of the lads from the death wish, and livestock knows no boundaFrench Foreign Legion whose training camp ries. My rst goat encounter happened within is just outside town. It has perfect beaches, 15 minutes of arriving. arts and music festivals, and an immaculate The only other problem that may surface marina, but something of a stage-set feel, too. Its also expensive. Although $126,054 buys is language. Nobody expects visitors to learn Corsican, but its useful to know some French a studio, 301 square feet isnt much living or even Italian. English-speakers are scarce space even for minimalists. And $398,065 outside the tourist centers. for a 559-square-foot apartment isnt pocket
GUILLAU ME DUBE/iS TOCK

FEBRUARY 2011 INTERNATIONAL LIVING 25

Investment By Chris Hunter

From Communism to Capitalism The Next Great Leap Forward


ne of the biggest trends in the world right nowand potentially one of the most protableis the growth of a new middle class outside places where you might not normally imagine middle class people. Places like India, Brazil and China. There are lots of statistics knocking around to support this. One of my favorites comes from researchers at Citigroup. They reckon that emerging nations will account for 93% of the global middle class by 2030. Another way of looking at it is this: The two billion or so middle class citizens in the emerging markets spend about $6.9 trillion each year. Over the next decade analysts expect that gure to grow to nearly $20 trillion. Thats a lot of new dough being spent on things like processed food, cosmetics, designer shoes, mobile phones, computers, cars and holidays. Its also a massive prot opportunity for investors who know how to capture some of that spend. One of the most exciting places where this trend is underway is China. Consider the following facts: China has the worlds biggest car market. China is the second largest spender on luxury goods (after Japan). Between 2007 and 2009 Chinese retail sales have grown 25% a year. Chinas growth will bring almost 100 million households into the middle- and afuent-class over the next decaderoughly the same number as exist in the United States today. Not bad for a Communist state that a few short decades ago was under the brutal regime of Chairman Mao and his Cultural Revolution. Dont get me wrong, theres still a way to go before China really becomes a consumerdriven society. At the moment, the Chinese dont spend nearly as much as big consumer nations such as the U.S. On average, Chinese families save roughly a quarter of their disposable income. By contrast, American families save less than 6% of their disposable income. And to keep growing at 10% a year, China relies heavily on cheap exports of manufactured goods. This means wages are low, because if labor costs go up too much, this will
26 INTERNATIONAL LIVING FEBRUARY 2011

tion study, much of ordinary Chinese citizens savings go to cover things like health care and education. This is Chinas Catch-22. It can keep its export-led economy competitive and accept anemic consumer spending at home. Or it can sacrice its export economy for a more sustainable consumer-driven one. In other words, it all depends on how Chinas rulers decide to manage the economy. Despite real advances, China remains more or less a sweatshop economy. And this kind of economy cant last forever. The mechanics are simple enough to understand: If China remains a nation of poorly paid factory workers, one day these workers will demand better conditions and better pay. And higher pay will mean Chinese factories will move to places where labor is cheaper places like Vietnam, which is already elbowing make Chinese exports less competitive. in on Chinas export patch. Theres another knock-on effect of this And this is the key. Chinas ruling elite export-driven model. Every year, Beijing buys understand the challenges the economy faces billions of dollars worth of Treasury bonds to if they dont foster more spending at home. keep the value of Chinas currency, the yuan, China watchers say the countrys next ve-year articially low. economic planto be rolled out next month This is all very well for Chinas exporters. will give a strong push to the move toward But it reduces the buying power of ordinary consumption. Chinese, who are left holding an articially Its do or die. And Chinas rulers understand devalued currency. this loud and clear. Other factors help keep domestic consumpWhen China does move toward a more tion low. Workers cant organize to demand consumer-driven economyand I think, evenhigher pay because unions are banned. And tually, it mustthat move will have a number thanks to a system called hoku, it is often hard of truly profound effects. First, it will improve for migrant Chinese workers to avail of free the lives of hundreds of million of Chinese. education, pensions and welfare payments. Second, it will help the rest of the world Hoku prevents Chinese workers claiming state economy grow out of its slump. And third, it benets if they travel outside their native will make investors in the Chinese consumpregion to nd work, as so many do. tion story very happy indeed. In fact, according to a Brookings InstituThe Chinese have pulled off economic transition in the past. In the early days of Deng Xiaopings program of reformsknown as Gaige Kaifang, literally Reforms and Opennessfew Your Chance to Make Money would have imagined that China would ever Alpha Hunter is International Livings new become the worlds second largest economy. independent investment research service. As And yet here we are. a member youll learn the best ways to play Smart investors would do well to bet on the the big emerging markets boom. Find out next leap forward and consider buying Chinese more about the benets of membership in consumer focused stocks. One easy way to do Alpha Hunter here: Intliving.com/alphahunter. this is by way of the Global X China Consumer ETF, ticker CHIQ.
Nanjing Road, Shanghai, is one of the busiest shopping streets in the world.
STEVE ALLEN/DREAMSTIME.COM

Offshore By Erika Nolan

How to Permanently Secure Your Wealth

n the very open book offshore environment American investors nd themselves in today, you should know theres a vehicle that still allows you to: 1. Access all of the worlds top performing markets (and currencies)... 2. Gain some of the most solid legal asset protection in the world... 3. Enjoy a compounding edge by deferring taxes on your investment growth, and... 4. Keep your nancial affairs private. Best of all, its IRS tax compliant, when structured properly. Its called an offshore variable annuity or a private placement policy. It is different from the traditional, domestic insurance products you may be familiar with. The term annuity encompasses many types of income arrangements. With an offshore variable annuity, most often it describes one where an insurance company agrees to make a series of payments to someone for the rest of his or her life in exchange for a single, xed premium.

For example, you give an insurance company $500,000 at age 65. In turn, they agree to pay you an income of $3,500 per month for the rest of your life. When you die, the payments stop. One policy can open up a world of benets youre hard-pressed to nd any other way today, including: Greater investment opportunities. Through your offshore variable annuity, instead of a short list of long-only equity funds, you can select an asset manager who can freely choose any investment he likes. He can cherry pick from the entire global investment universe without being constrained by your U.S. citizenship. Tax-deferred growth. These policies allow your account to grow tax-deferred. Taxes are only paid when a distribution is made from the policy to you or one of your beneciaries. Depending on the specic nature of your policy, there are different tax benets available as long as the policy is created in a compliant manner.

100% Flexibility, All the Time. Your life situation, legal and tax situation and outlook on the marketseven your outlook on the political environmentwill change over the years. With an offshore variable annuity, the policy can change with you so that your money isnt locked into a rigid structure that is costly to maintain and even harder to change.

While secrecy is dead, you can still take your wealth off the radar.
Unmatched Privacy. While secrecy is dead, you can still take your wealth off the radar with this vehicle. Given the current economic situation, anyone with a net worth above $500,000 could easily become the target of a frivolous lawsuit or even the victim of an extortion plot. In many cases, the offshore insurance company operates under its own insurance privacy law and will release information only in the event of a criminal investigation. No Internet search or random phone call will ever reveal your policys existence. Estate Planning. The private placement policy is also a good way to transfer wealth to your loved ones. The beneciaries you name when setting up the policy get immediate access to the funds upon your death. No power of attorney or last will is necessary for payments to be made. Offshore variable annuities are one of the simplest yet most comprehensive offshore solutions available today. The minimum policy starts at $250,000 but due to the fees and expenses, policies from $500,000 to $1million are more cost-effective. If you are interested in learning more about private placement policies, contact Marc Sola, Managing Partner at NMG International in Zurich, Switzerland. You can reach Marc via email at marcsola@ nmg-ifs.com or by phone +41 (44) 266-2141. Editors Note: Erika Nolan is the Publisher of The Sovereign Society (www.sovereigninvestor.com) and the co-author of The Insured PortfolioYour Gateway to Stress-Free Global Investments.

ILs Currency Corner By Mary Anne and Pamela Aden


Buy Foreign Currencies During the Dollars Quick Rebound For the last decade, the U.S. dollar has seen a major downtrend. In fact, its been in decline since the early 1970s when the U.S. went off the gold standard, which essentially eliminated the last bit of scal discipline and allowed money creation at will. The end result has been ination, a false prosperity, and the dollars depreciation. This process continues and is now far more serious. Its making many countries nervous because theyre holding billions of dollars in their reserves, which is their savings. And these savings are rapidly deteriorating, along with the dollar. Following the rebound rise, however, the dollar will continue on its downward path. This, in turn, will likely tie in with the dollars growing unattractiveness. Most central banks are diversifying by adding more euros and gold to their reserves. Many countries are also avoiding the dollar by making deals among themselves. China, for example, is trading with most Asian countries using their own currencies. Theyre doing the same with Argentina, Brazil, Turkey and others. This is gradually eroding the dollars global status, which appears to be the wave of the future.

Editors Note: Mary Anne & Pamela Aden are well known analysts and editors of The Aden Forecast, a market newsletter providing specic Nevertheless, the dollar is currently poised to forecasts and recommendations on gold, stocks, temporarily rise further, providing you a good opportunity to buy some of the stronger curren- interest rates and the other major markets. For more information, go to www.adenforecast.com. cies at a better price.

29 INTERNATIONAL LIVING FEBRUARY 2011

Real Estate By Len Galvin

Pirate Hideaways and Caribbean Beachfront in Secret Belize

suppose youre going to tell everyone about our little beach town? It was said with a smile by the woman from Texas who had lived here for 10 years. But it sounded slightly more like an accusation than a question. Since arriving in Placencia, I hear something similar each time I mention I work for International Living. I cant blame anyone for wanting to keep this peninsula in southern Belize to themselves. Miles of beach in an English-speaking, genuinely friendly country. I was seduced by the area in less than 20 minutes. Thats about as long as it took to get from the little airstrip

outside town to the beach hut I rented for $80 a night. A small restaurant that served great coffee a few minutes to my left, a 10-minute walk along the beach into the village on my right, the Maya Mountains visible in the distance behind me, and the Caribbean Sea stretched out in front of me. Forty years ago, when Belize was still under British rule, no one came to Placencia. With no air access or roads, the only way to get here was by boat. When we started writing about this area in the early 1990s, there were a couple of scheduled ights a day. Now there are 20 ights a day on the 15-seaters that Tropic Air

Buying and Renting: Real Estate Contacts


The real estate market in Placencia is mostly driven by North Americans. So, these days, theres a lot less buying going on. As a result, real estate agents are now getting into property management. The contacts listed here can also help you nd a place to rent. Unless noted, all the property mentioned in this article is listed with Dan Dunbar of Caribbean Property Consultants. Tel. + (501) 523 7299. E-mail: dan@belizeproperty.com. Website: Belizeproperty.com. The contact at Century 21 is Bradley Rinehart. Tel. + (501) 670 2034. E-mail: brinehart@century21belize.com. Website: Century21belize.com.

and Maya Airways run out of Belize International. And the road to Placencia has improved so much that the car rental agencies will even let you drive down here now. I met two types of expats while I was in townthose who have lived here more than 10 years...and the newbies. Some of the longtimers think Placencia Village has become too busy and too crowded. Theyre moving farther up the peninsula to nd a quieter life (and cheaper property) thats more in line with what they had in Placencia 10-plus years ago. But any recent additions to the expat population think Placencia offers the perfect simple beach life. One IL reader, Don from Ohio, told me it reminded him of the small towns he grew up in during the 1950s. Im probably giving you a conicting image of Belizeand Placencia in particular. The undiscovered Caribbean outpost thats been attracting people for years. Belize isnt a secret among Caribbean-savvy travelers250,000 tourists come here every year to dive, sh, sail, and relax on the beach. And although only about 30,000 of them make their way to Placencia, there are plenty of million-dollar houses and celebrity property

30 INTERNATIONAL LIVING FEBRUARY 2011

MARK WEBSTER/GETTY IMAGES

You can buy your own island off the coast of Belize.

owners along the coast. Yet, most people havent heard of Belize...and even if they have, they certainly havent heard of Placencia. But this is a small, sparsely populated countrylike the population of Tampa in an area the size of Massachusetts. It doesnt take many visitors to make it feel discovered even if youre part of a small group of pioneers. The leisure sailors were the rst ones in. Theyd arrive in Placencia to carry out boat repairs and stock up on provisions. Some of them liked what they found so much, they stayed. Islands For Sale Belize has about 200 islands off its coastand some of them are for sale. These are in fact small cayes scattered throughout the shallow waters, used as hideaways by 17th-century pirates after they plundered Spanish gold. Islands cost anything from $20,000/acre to $300,000/acre. Generally, the bigger the island, the lower the per-acre cost, but the main factor that affects price is accessibility. If the island has an airstripor is an easy boat ride from the mainlandit costs more. The same criteria affect the price of big beach lots on the islandsthey range from

$30,000/acre to $150,000/acre. Jacks Caye is a 15-acre island eight miles from the mainland north of Placencia. It has one mile of beachfront. Price: $1 million. On Middle Long Caye, nine miles off the mainland, ve-acre lots come with 300 feet of sea front. Price: $150,000. The peninsula is a long strip of land with a road running down the middle. On one side is the Caribbean and on the other side, a lagoon which ows into the Caribbean. Property on the lagoon side is cheaper. This is where some major high-priced development is taking place thats being marketed to Europeans. Unless you feel that a personal yacht marina is vital to your second home, I wouldnt buy here. And judging by how slow the small construction crews were working, it could take a long time before anything is built. If I were buying in Placencia, Id either buy at a small development that was already complete, or Id renovate or build my own home. Maya Beach is the third and last village on the 16-mile peninsula before it joins the mainland (the other village is Seine Bight; Placencia Village is at the very tip of the peninsula). A simple one-bedroom house on a large 19,000-square-foot lot on the lagoon side of the peninsula at Maya Beach lists for $98,000. In Placencia Village, on a small island with access to the lagoon, a developer has built four condos (and plans to build four more). The two-story, 2,000-square-foot condos have views of the Caribbean and share a pool and common area. The big patios have a barbecue and a hot tub. A caretaker lives on the island and takes you back and forth to the island on a small ferry. When I was there, one of the owners was shing for grouper with the caretakers son (who was catching a lot more sh). These are very private homes, and well nished. Even though theyre built in the same part of town as some homes that sold for more than $1 million in the past few years, they are probably overpricedmaybe you could do a deal. They list for $396,000. Caribbean Way is several miles up the peninsula from Placencia. This is an area where some of those long-timers I mentioned are looking for a more secluded lifestyle. Theyll nd it herenothing but beach as far as you can see, with the occasional pier jutting out from one of the few houses. A one-third-acre beachfront lot here with 75 feet of beach lists for $180,000 (Century 21). Closer to Placencia Village, a one-third-acre beachfront lot with 80 feet of beach lists for $195,000.

M e x i c o

Corozal Ambergris Caye

Orange Walk Belize

Caribbean Sea Belize City

Guatemala

Belmopan

Cayo

Stann Creek

B e l i z e Placencia
TOLEDO

Punta Gorda Gulf of Honduras Honduras

3 Ways to Get a Cheaper Beach House


If you buy a beach lot and build your own home, you can save up to 40% off the cost of buying a pre-owned house. (Plus, construction standards have improved in recent yearsif you buy an older home, it will probably need a lot of work.) Building costs are $75-$125 per square foot. Theres plenty for sale in Placencia right now as foreign owners hope to liquidate assets to bolster cash back home. But few people truly need to selleven though its possible to get a mortgage from a local bank (at massive interest rates), almost everyone bought for cash. If you can nd a motivated seller, gure a 25% reduction on the asking price. But if youre willing to wait 12 months, Id say this time next year will see a lot more sellers willing to do a deal. If you buy a block back from the beach, 60 to 80 feet from the ocean, youll get it for 25% less than beachfront. You will have a house in front of you, but theres generally a three-story limit in Placencia. You spend very little time indoors on the coastall the action takes place on the large second-story verandahs. If theres already a house built in front of you and youve still got uninterrupted views of the oceanthats a sweet discount.

FEBRUARY 2011 INTERNATIONAL LIVING 31

Entrepreneur Prole By Suzan Haskins

What Brings Three Top Chefs to Mrida?


Name: David Sterling Age: 59 Nationality: U.S. Living in: Mrida, Mexico

omeones in the kitchen with David. Luckily, its meand a dozen or so other food lovers. Weve come to study the art of Yucatecan cooking with David Sterling and none other than the grand dame of Mexican cuisine herself, Diana Kennedy. Her classic cookbooks have been on my bookshelves forever, it seems. And now here y she isin person and just a few steps from my homeat a cooking school in Mrida. But the real star of this show is my neighbor, Chef David. In the eight years hes been living in Mexico hes already launched three e successful businesses, one of which has made him the darling of notables like Diana Kennedy. No less than Mexicophile Rick Bayless (owner of Chicagos award-winning Frontera Grill and star of his own PBS series Mexico: One Plate at a Time) and the inimitable Martha Stewart herself have come to Mrida, camera crews in tow, to spend time with David at his Los Dos Cooking School. Davids kitchenwith its massive center island and walls decorated in a dizzyingly eclectic hodgepodge of colorful Mexican tilesalone inspires condence that no matter your culinary skill (or lack thereof ) youll soon be pattycaking tamales and grinding seeds for pipin sauce with skill. Los Dos is the only culinary institute in Mexico devoted to Yucatecan cuisine. And sitting in the Los Dos dining room with Diana Kennedy and my fellow class members, were in awe of Davids complete recall of dates and eventsfrom pre-conquest through last weekthat have shaped the cooking and food of the peninsula. David has always been a student of Mexico. I started studying Spanish when I was 11 years olda requirement in Oklahoma City Public Schools in the 1960s, he says. I became obsessed with Mexico. I even went so far as to secretly plot with my aunt to entice my parents to take the whole family on a road trip south of the border. It worked! We at least made it to El Paso and Jurez. In high school and college, David found his childhood infatuation turn into a hunger to learn more. At 17, he began traveling to

Mexicoprimarily to Mexico Citywhere he studied Aztec culture and the Mexican muralist movement. And then life happened. Twenty-odd years ew by as David had his nose to the grindstone in the advertising and design business in New York City.

Choosing fresh produce from the markets is a joy in Mrida.

I wake up to the sound of birds and sit in the lush tropical garden and read the newspaper
Ive always had a dual career path, he says, food and art. While I was studying for my MFA in design near Detroit, I supported myself by working in a French restaurant. After graduate school I did a bit of private catering. During my last years in New York, my business partner and I discussed launching a line of gourmet Mexican food products. He, too, had a gourmet foods background. This, then, became a good excuse for moving to Mexico, where I would be able to source in-

gredients more easily. While product development was going on, I decided to also launch a cooking school with the idea that there would be cross-promotional synergy between the school and the product line. As luck would have it, David and his life partner, Keith Heitke, had just bought a home in Mrida, capital of Mexicos Yucatn state. We thought we could ip it, or use it as a rental, David says. But ultimately, we w were just so in love with the place that we d decided to give it a go. In April 2003, they moved to Mrida and le than eight months after arriving, David less o opened Los Dos, a cooking school devoted to the local cuisine. As for business number two, the rst sh shipment of the Los Dos brand of artisanal ho honey was recently exported to the U.S. w where it will be available through gourmet fo website Chefshop.com. food While David was launching these two bu businesses, his partner Keith was busy, too. He jumped into the Mrida real estate busiHed nes and found his clients clamoring for help ness ren renovating the stately old colonial homes M Mrida is known for. Soon business number thr was born: Worldstudio International three (See Worldstudiointernational.com). (See: We began offering remodeling and renovati services, David says, which worked vation out conveniently for my schedule, since the scho is slow in summers, which is the time school when most of our design work happens. Right now were working on a fabulous renovation project just a few blocks away. Its a great house, a big budget, and we are having a blast with all the design details. So my days typically begin with a stroll to the job site to check on progress. Then I spend time in my laboratory kitchen testing out all sorts of Yucatecan recipes. During the class season, I am busy preparing menus and shopping. And Im working on a cookbook, too. But where does he get the energy? I wake up to the sound of tropical birds. I step outside the bedroom door and jump into the pool for a swim. I sit in the lush tropical garden and read the newspaper while I have coffee and a bite to eat. I dont have to put on a suit to go to work and I can honestly claim that at least 80% of my time at work is full of creativity, learning and spontaneity. What could be more energizing than that?
FEBRUARY 2011 INTERNATIONAL LIVING 33

JIM FRANCO/GETTY IMAGES

ILs Calendar of Events


Turn Your Snapshots into Cash
The Ultimate Money-Making Photo Workshop, San Antonio, TX (April 7 9, 2011) If you can snap a simple photographyou could easily turn your next vacation, your own hometown, and even your pet goldsh into fast, fun, easy cash. No experience necessary. Over three fun, engaging, eyeopening days, learn the secrets to taking better pictures and successfully marketing them to newspapers, magazines and online. Participate in photo shoots with professional models and come away with photos you can sell right away. Plus nd out how to use photos to turn your average vacation into a write-off on your taxes. For more information, including pricing, call the AWAI Travel Division, tel. +(202)370- 6459 or +(866)415-1425 (toll-free) or see: Thephotographerslife.com/phw/ sanantonio/il.

Why Youll Love Panama


Live and Invest in Panama Seminar, Panama City (April 13 16, 2011) Panama offers expats what is, arguably, the best retireeincentive program on the planet. Thanks to its secondto-none pensionado program, you can have a First World lifestyle at Third World prices. When you qualify, you can save on almost everything, with discounts like 50% off entertainment, 30% off public transport, big discounts on airfares, and even 25% off eating out. Panama City is an international hub for culture and business. Youll nd music from every corner of the worldinternational cuisineand people from all walks of life and from all over the planet. And Panama is easy to get in and out of. You can travel anywhere in the world from the airport, often direct. And thats not all. Out of the city you nd cool-weather mountain hideaways in Cerro Azul or Volcan. Looking for beach? You dont have to pick between the Caribbean and the Pacic coaststheyre only a 45-minute drive apart. Book your place for our Live and Invest in Panama Seminar before February 20 and save $200 off the registration price. For more information, tel. (toll-free) +1(866)3818446; e-mail: events@internationalliving.com; website: Internationalliving.com/events.

ANTONIO SALADO CANO/iSTOCK

Five Tropical BeachesOne Special Trip


Chill Weekend, (March 16-20, 2011) Its that time of year again. The days are shorter, grayer...the temperature is chilly, if not downright freezing...those warm summer days seem like a lifetime away. Its not surprising that youre dreaming of tropical sunshine, and your own little hideaway, close to a fabulous beach. But why settle for one beach when you can have ve...each with its own unique, magical character? Weve found one location where you can enjoy privacy, spend time exploring ve beaches, and enjoy a gorgeous setting of 2,700 lush green acres, with a very affordable price tag. This is a place you need to visit. And to help you do that, the developer here runs Chill Weekends...short trips that give you a chance to try on the lifestyle for size, and see if it ts. Their next Chill Weekend runs next month. Youll enjoy a taste of a beautiful colonial city... and you can check out their properties, amenities, the clubhouse, the views, the climate, your would-be neighborhoodwhatever is most

Discover How You Can Get Paid to Travel


The Ultimate Travel Writers Workshop, Chicago, IL, (August 4 6, 2011) Six months from now, you could be getting paid to see the world. Imagine sliding out of bed and knowing your work for the day is to shop in an open-air market in the south of Francescuba dive along the Great Barrier Reefattend the opera in Vienna This summer, spend three fun days in Chicago and discover the secrets to traveling the world and getting paid as a travel writer. No experience necessary. All you need is an interest in seeing new places and meeting new peopleand a willingness to learn the easy techniques, tricks and secrets the pros rely on. For more information, including pricing, see: Thetravelwriterslife. com/tww/chicago/il or call the AWAI Travel Division, tel. (202)370-6459 or (866)415-1425 (toll-free).
FEBRUARY 2011 INTERNATIONAL LIVING 35

SHANE ODONNELL/iSTOCK

important to you. And, of course, youll have plenty of time to kick back, relaxand enjoy those ve pristine beaches. For more information, see: Pathnderinternational.net/vebeaches.

Travel By Steenie Harvey

Cyprus: Exploring Aphrodites Island

f your life lacks romance, Aphrodites Isle could change it forever. Where do you think the word aphrodisiac comes from? A honeyed land of gs, vines and pomegranates in the eastern Mediterranean, Cyprus claims to be Aphrodites birthplace. Islanders worshipped the goddess of love here until at least the 4th century A.D. The center of her cult was the islands southwest, around Paphos, but many places have links with the temptress. For example, on the Akamas peninsula, Aphrodites Trail tracks the route she took with Adonisone of her many mythical bedfellows. Near seaside Pissouri, Aphrodites Rock is where she emerged from the sea. Legend tells that swimming around it three times gives the gift of eternal youth. Now best known for its sweet and sticky loukoumia (locals call it Cyprus Delight, not Turkish Delight), Geroskipou village derives its name from Ieros Kipos, or sacred gardens. A couple of miles from the main Temple of Aphroditesadly little remains of it today pilgrims traveling from Paphos harbor rested here. I like to picture them plucking pomegranates from the gardens, waiting for the Morning Star to rise above the temple knoll... In truth, Aphrodite worship was about fertility, not romance. During springtimes Aphrodisia festival, there was no rest for the wickedor the innocent. At least once in their life, young women underwent ritual prostitution at one of Aphrodites sanctuaries. It was a maidens duty to embrace the divine bridegroomthe rst stranger who threw a coin into her lap. Old travelers tales often help bring the past to life. Writing in 1336, a German priest called Ludolf of Suchen complained that merely sleeping on Cypriot soil provoked a man to lust. Despite the jeopardy to his soul, the brave Ludolf wandered around Aphrodites sanctuary. He found all ladies and damsels before their betrothal yielded themselves to men; for in Cyprus men are by nature most luxurious. (No, I dont know what luxurious men are, either.) Ludolf s De Terra Sancta seems intensely interested in fallen women. When visiting Famagusta in present-day Northern Cyprus, he discovered that in this city dwell many wealthy courtesans, of whom some possess

Aphrodites Rock, southwest Cyprus, is where the goddess of love was born out of the waves.

DMITRIY YAROVATIY/iSTOCK

more than 100,000 orins. Not so nowadays. I didnt encounter any courtesans in Famagusta, wealthy or otherwise. Though I did notice some men with luxuriant mustaches... Known as Famagusta to Greeks, Gazimagusa to Turks, this Cypriot city was an embarkation point for Holy Land Crusades. Armed with cross and sword, the medieval soldier boys bequeathed it a reputation for being the Mediterraneans most debauched port. Famagustas one-time Venetian rulers were sent packing by Ottoman Turks in 1571. Even so, a marble plaque beside Othellos Tower still aunts St. Marks winged lion, the emblem of Venice. Othellos Tower? Well, Shakespeares tragedy moves from Venice to a seaport of Cyprus. No one knows for sure, but maybe he heard tales of decadent Famagusta. The citys tourist ofce has certainly seized on the Shakespearean connection. Although things have improved in recent years, the relationship between Greek and Turkish Cypriots isnt good. Famagusta lies in the TRNC: the Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus. When the city was seized by Turkish troops in 1974, its Greek Cypriot residents ed south. They regard it as occupied territory. Reunication talks are underway, but the island currently remains divided. Greek and Turkish Cypriot communities do live together in Pyla village, within the UN Green Line buffer zone. Mosque and Turkish coffee shop on one side of the square, church

and Greek-style kafenion on the other, but this is an exception. Famagustas cityscape is weird. Like the former Venetian palace, its golden stone churches lie in ruins. Soaring above cobbled lanes, the old cathedral is in better shape. But its now a mosque whose gothic architecture incorporates a minaret. Black tea served in glasses...payment in Turkish lira. Evil eye decorations...women in headscarves. Along the coast lie Varoshas empty tower blocks. A Famagusta suburb, its a beach resort whose party ended 34 years ago. Since then, its hotels and holiday homes have lain abandoned behind barbed wire and army check-points. Nobody goes there. Nobody can. Ghost towns and forbidden cities appeal to me, so I yearned to explore Varosha. But you know how it issome days you just dont feel like tangling with Turkish soldiers. Incidentally, not all writers fall for Aphrodites charms. Victorian travel writers tend to pull few punches, but Sir Samuel White Bakers Cyprus, as I Saw it in 1879 is particularly scathing: Why she (Aphrodite) is represented by the exceedingly plain women of modern Cyprus surpasses the imagination. Perhaps the immorality connected with the ancient worship of the goddess of beauty and love invoked a curse upon the descendants. Personally, I hope the goddess ensured that Sir Samuels love life shriveled away to nothing... To nd out where to stay and how to get around see: Intliving.com/cyprus.
FEBRUARY 2011 INTERNATIONAL LIVING 37

Property Picks From Party-Place Properties to... Properties Where You Can Party

$316,384 Stratford, London


In London, the U.K.s cosmopolitan capital, its always party time somewhere. From Notting Hills Carnival to Chinese New Year celebrations, the range of cultural events is as mixed and varied as the population. In the East End, the borough of Stratford is the main location for the 2012 Olympics. Huge investment is going into the neighborhood, and its getting a major facelift. An array of new transport links and facilities means this unsung part of London is set to stay on the map even after the Olympics end. On Stratford High Street, and only 15 minutes by Tube from central London, you can nd one-bedroom apartments (495 square feet) in the new Velocity development. Price: $316,384. For more information, see: Site-sales.co.uk.

$995,000 Playa del Carmen, Mexico


In Playa del Carmen, on Mexicos beautiful Caribbean coast, all the action is in the street. In late afternoon, after a long day at the beach, locals and tourists stroll the length of Fifth Avenue, the heart of Playa, stopping in shops and sidewalk cafs. When night falls jugglers, re dancers and more, set up on street corners. Imagine having your own lagoon-front private villa just outside Playa. This 39,000-square-foot estate has a private entrance to a lagoon as well as a cenotea freshwater, naturally-formed swimming holeon the grounds. The villa has four bedrooms, ve baths, eight showers (two outdoors), a private pool and a rooftop palapa thats wired with speakers. The house can sleep up to 20just perfect for your own private party. The service quarters for staff have one bedroom, a bath, and a full kitchen. Price: $995,000. For more information, e-mail: info@onestopmc.com.

SHAWN BANDICK

Notting Hill Carnival, London.

$1.23 million Barcelona, Spain


Cities with jazz festivals, blues bars and heavy metal clubs are great. Throw in absinthe bars and drinking holes with scratchy Edith Piaf records and they get even better. You want beach bars with dancing on the sand, too? Well, of course. Just head for a chiringuito bar. With its street parties (pictured), beach parties and dusk-til-dawn nightlife, Barcelona is the ultimate party city. A place to have dinner at midnightand be around people who agree that 3 a.m. qualies as a really early night. Adorned with many of Gaudis fantastic creations, the Eixample neighborhood is one of Barcelonas most desirable residential locations. A renovated penthouse apartment of 1,290 square feet, with three bedrooms, two bathrooms and private roof terrace could be perfect if you want to party like a rock star. But at $1.23 million, it would help to have a rock stars income too. For more information, see: Lucasfox.com.
38 INTERNATIONAL LIVING FEBRUARY 2011

SPORTGRAPHIC/DREAMSTIME.COM

CLIVE CHILVERS/DREAMSTIME.COM

For information on property for sale from around the world, visit www.internationalliving.com

$359,000 Bocas del Toro, Panama


Perfect for your own private parties, it doesnt get much better than a Caribbean home in Panamas island province of Bocas del Toro. Just yards away from the sea, a two-bedroom property offers more than 2,000 square feet of living space (including two balconies) and sits on a lot of about three-quarters of an acre. A 28-foot open ceiling, beamed with hardwood, and an open-plan layout makes the most of the gentle breeze. The kitchen features granite counter tops and stainless steel appliances. The large bedroom suite with sitting and office areas includes a walk-in closet and master bath with skylight, oversized shower and large spa-tub overlooking the gardens and jungle. The second room can be used as a guest room or solarium where you can enjoy the multi-colored island sunsets while entertaining friends. On the ground level, the home features a large storage room with laundry facilities and outdoor shower. The surrounding gardens reveal everything from aromatic white ginger to fruit trees, including sour sop, mango, orange and lemon. Best of all, this home is just 10 minutes away from the Bocas del Toro town center, which boasts a lively strip of restaurants, hotels and shops. The area and surrounding islands are known for white sand beaches and clear turquoise waters. Enjoy surng, turtle and dolphin tours, diving and snorkeling... Price: $359,000. For more information, contact Susan Hahn by e-mail: sosueme27@yahoo.com.

TONISALADO/iSTOCKPHOTO

$249,000 Bay of Salinas, Ecuador


Grab a cold one and head to the rooftop deck of a three-level oceanfront home for the sunset. Sitting right on the Bay of SalinasEcuadors number one party destinationis a gorgeous home with a giant party palapa on the second deck. There you will nd a bar and barbecue next to an innity pool with built-in Jacuzzi. There are three bathrooms and three large bedrooms in the house. On an 8,000-square-foot lot, the property also includes a two-story caretakers home, covered carport and an automatic sliding entry gate. Outside, the excitement of Salinas awaitswith its excellent restaurants and nightclubs, waterpark, marina, yacht club, golf course, tennis club, shopping malls and more...including a beach complete with boardwalk. Price: $249,000. For more information, e-mail: Mike Sager redwulf3@juno.com.

Surf by day and party by night in Salinas, Ecuador.

FEBRUARY 2011 INTERNATIONAL LIVING 39

AFP/GETTY IMAGES

International Dates By Darius Fisher

Chaing Mai Flower Festival, Thailand.

Da de la Candelaria (Candlemas) is celebrated on February 2 throughout Mexico. The religious holiday marks the end of winter. Locals all over the country go to church, visit friends and have large family dinners. An epiphany cake is cut to nd the baby Jesus gure hidden inside. Puno, Peru also hosts its own Candlemas. Love fashion and all the baggage that accompanies it? Then come to So Paulo Fashion Week and eye the sartorial elegance during Brazils most important fashion event.

The Final Frame


Right Time and Place in Thailand
By Bonnie Caton Buzzing through the oating markets outside of Bangkok, I was overwhelmed. There were too many delicious sights and sounds, colors and smells whizzing by to linger on anything for long. And then out of the crowd of boats, she appearedthis wise woman oating along, her hands resting on her paddle, her mind somewhere else. She seemed apart from the bustle. Looking at this photo, I feel the excitement of navigating the lush canals in our speedboat The oating markets arent what they were when this woman was a child. Many more tourists frequent them, now. But they are rife with photo opportunities...and irresistible fried noodles, too. Join in the excitement of taking better photos while you travel alongside a professional photographer at one of AWAIs Photography Expeditions, here: Thephotographerslife.com/ signup/workshops.

Time for thought in Thailands oating markets.


40 INTERNATIONAL LIVING FEBRUARY 2011

BONNIE CATON

AFP/GETTY IMAGES

GETTY IMAGES

LATINCONTENT/GETTY IMAGES

oyon hosts March de Franc the rst Tuesday of this month (and every month). The humble commune 60 miles north of Paris completely transforms into an open-air provincial market. Started as a poultry market in the Middle Ages, artisan vendors now sell regional specialties like Thirache cider, Picardie foie gras and delicious fruit preserves. While youre in Europe, stop by Germany for Berlinale, the Berlin International Film Festival. In its 61st year, this years retrospective will honor Swedish director Ingmar Bergman, who passed away in 2007.

The festival starts February 11. Like Oysters? Throughout the month, oyster events are held throughout Hiroshima City and shing villages along Japans coast. Heres a tip: kaki is Japanese for oyster. Proud and fabulous, South Africas gay and lesbians celebrate Cape Town Pride starting February 24. Residents parade throughout the city to aunt Cape Towns diversity and inclusiveness. Who knew Phuket had a bluesrock scene? On February 25 and 26, Thailands popular expat haunt hosts the International Blues Rock Festival. The global event will feature musicians from Norway, Sweden, the U.S., Malaysia, Australia, the U.K. and Thailand. Catch the end of Sentosa Flowers off Singapores coast. Sentosa Island blossoms with vivid color to welcome spring, and visitors come to walk the islands streets lined with bright owers. While youre at it, check out another ower festthis one in the north of Thailand. During the Chaing Mai Flower Festival, scenes and characters of Ramayana (an ancient Sanskrit epic) are crafted out of owers then exhibited throughout the city.

So Paulo Fashion Week, Brazil.

Classieds Your guide to quality real estate, rentals, travel services, education, employment and money-making opportunities worldwide

PROPERTY FOR SALE


AJIJIC, MEXICO - Best climate! Large Ex-Pat Community! Enchanting Garden Estate on Lake Chapala. Traditional Mexican and artistic details, luxury amenities. www.casamosaica-ajijic.com VISTA ENCANTADA ECO-CLUB. Riviera Nayarit, Puerto Vallarta, Mexico. RETIRE IN PARADISE. Titled Property for sale. Gated community, ocean & jungle view lots starting at $99k USD. Homes starting from mid $200,000s. Spectacular sunsets! Views to Marina ChacalaGuayabitos. THE NEW, HIGH-END, TOURIST DESTINATION-FONATUR AT EL CAPOMO is just 2 miles to the south! U.S.&Canada call: 1-916-501-2750 Mexico 01-322-297-5555 BOQUETE, PANAMA 179,900.00 3 bedrooms 2. 1/2 baths Lots of extras. rayorida39@aol.com for details and pictures. Ecuador: Two blocks from Pacic beach, 2000 square-foot home with ocean views, hardwood kitchen cabinetry, and swimming pool. Some furniture included in asking price of $130,000. Contact spondylusecuador@yahoo.com. Nicaragua Beachfront Property Beautiful 3.48 acres vacant land suitable for luxury improvements. 150 meters from white sand beaches. San Juan Del Sur municipality. Panoramic views of Bay of Salinas in Playa Manzanillo and Costa Rica mountains. USD $300,000. Web site: www.playamanzanillonicagagua.com; contact: Pablo Guerrero, US 305-647-7970, cell 011-505-86800434. Designer decorated large one bedroom furnished riverside home in downtown Boquete $115K, speermary@yahoo.com 011-507-720-2157 NICARAGUA GORGEOUS VOLCANIC LAKE VIEW LOT Fresh water, perfect weather, many trees. Electricity & water. 1/4 acre $39,000, 1/2 acre $70,000. Friendly expat neighbors, close to colonial Granada. gvpowell27@gmail.com Golf and Beach Resort Condo, $153,000. Five-star amenities, gorgeous Caribbean beach. Contact donna@mexicoalive.com. bloomingenterprises@hotmail.com www.blooming-intl.com San Miguel de Allende, Mexico New custom home. 3BR, 3 Bath. Gated Community. Luxury details and nish. Modern kitchen with SS appliances. Tile throughout. Boveda ceilings. Terrace with views. 10 minutes walk to Centro. Owners must sell. Reduced to US $369,000. Contact in Mexico: Alma Ramirez alma@colonialrealestate.com or visit our website at www.retireinmexico.weebly.com Panama Farms Properties is currently developing Mountain View Farms in Boquete, Panama. See details at www.boqueteland.com, or write timb88@gmail.com for details Tel: 401-644-5881 6.7 hec - 16.5 acres 1000 beach NO BUILDING. Tasaste,Jama,Ecuador.Four lane road in front, 4 public buses. Price 285000 FIRM. Details http://www.itg.sys.com/ecuador/ Quito lawyer Sebastian Cordero telephone: (593 2)2447549/51/65 NICARAGUA PRIME GOLF LOT CLOSE TO PACIFIC BEACHES Private, gated Hacienda Iguana community - 1/3 acre, 3 minutes from world-famous Colorado surng breaks, swimming pool on-the-beach. Many trees, expat neighbors. $65,000 - includes golf membership & pool club. gvpowell@hotmail.com http://landfsbo.webstarts.com 1/3 acre rim lot, best view of pristine Lake Apoyo in Club Vistalagos with views of Granada, Nicaragua. $69,000. sunlandmerry@gmail.com

Best location in Merida, Mexico. 5,670 sq.-ft. colonial home. 3-bed, 3.5 bath, 2 terraces, gourmet kitchen, pool and lush gardens. Fully furnished, perfect for B&B or spa. Buy direct from owner for $375,000. sunlandmerry@gmail.com

Royal DeCameron, Panama Near Coronado. Luxury Villa located on the 6th Fairway of Panamas Best Golf Course. Fully Fumished. Air Conditioned. 3 Bedrooms, 3 YzBaths, Swimming Pool. Maids Quarters. NEW Golf Cart. 3 Golf Memberships. Private Beach Club. Asking $525,000.00 239 -27 7 -7 178 j amaxx@comcast.net
FEBRUARY 2011 INTERNATIONAL LIVING 41

Lake Arenal, Bella Vista Estates Costa Rica Lake and Volcano view lots 2.5-13 acres Starting at 65k www.BellaVistaCostaRica.com 941-227-3517

ECUADOR NEAR QUITO FOR LONG OR MEDIUM TERM RENT SPACIOUS FURNISHED TWO BED APARTMENT WITH STUNNING VIEWS IN SECURE FARM. PERFECT LOCATION TO EXPLORE OR ESTABLISH RESIDENCE IN ECUADOR. 0059322046063 btpoolbe@yahoo.co.uk

LE CHTEAU DE COURTOMER is an exquisite 18th-century chateau in the heart of Normandy, set amidst acres of parkland, elds, and pasture. Embellished with period antiques, refurbished to 21st-century standards of comfort and convenience, le chteau de Courtomer offers you the perfect setting for intimate family gatherings, romantic moments, and elegant retreatsor just a grand get-away with special friends. Youll be within an hour or two of Paris, Deauville, Mont-Saint-Michel, and the Normandy landing beachesand minutes from bustling country markets, gourmet restaurants, antique shops, and historic chateaux and churches. For more information about stays from one night to two months for up to 15 guests, please contact us by telephone: (001) 410-783-8463, or fax: (001) 410-783-8464 (please note that phone numbers are USA-based), or visit our website: www.chateaudecourtomer.com The perfect place to stay in Cuenca while you settle down!!!!

SW France, For Sale, picturesque medieval village house, Montpezat-de-Quercy, completely renovated. ppantleo@4dv.net Vilcabamba, Ecuador: For sale. 14.1-acre private estate. Indoor heated lap pool, three-car garage, horse stables, tennis court, volleyball court, lakes, orchards and vegetable garden. The main residence covers 5300 square feet, with four beds, seven baths, an ofce and gym. Spacious balconies and patios give an additional 2900 square feet of living spaceand with Vilcabambas year-round spring-like weather, theyre the perfect spot for parties, and entertaining. A separate 1500 square foot guesthouse has 2 beds and 2 baths. A unique property built to the highest standards. $3.29 million. Contact info@pathnderinternational.net for more details.

Portugal Modern, spacious, one-bedroom apartment for rent in Portugal. Located 5 minutes from the beautiful historic town of Tavira, a largely undiscovered gem in the east of the Algarve, unspoiled by tourism. 30 minutes east of Faro airport, Tavira is one of the most architecturally attractive towns in the Algarve. 10 minutes from sandy beaches and within 30 minutes of two top class golf courses. Contact thennegans@eircom.net for more information.

Apartamentos Otorongo, provides fully furnished apartments, with all you need before you nd a permanent home in Cuenca, with very affordable prices in a cozy environment by Tomebamba river Banks within 10 minutes walking from downtown. It will be a pleasure to have you here, contact us: otorongo@etapanet.net Skype: x.montezuma Ofce : 593 72882788 Mobil: 593 97245870

TRAVEL
Expedia Quoted $1,786.40...I paid $624. 5 star resorts from $298 per week. Short video reveals everything. www.Cheap5StarTravel.com

PROPERTY FOR RENT/ TRADE/TIME-SHARE


MONTEVIDEO APARTMENT Modern comfort and convenience in Ciudad Vieja. Ideal short-term rental for business, expat and tourist travelers. www.casasarandi356.com PUERTO VALLARTA BEACHFRONTluxury 2 bedroom, 2 bath, pool, maid, TV/VCR, wi-, central air, $110 summer, $140 winter, holidays-call. Photos at www.gotopv.net (818) 888-7465.
42 INTERNATIONAL LIVING FEBRUARY 2011

Blue Monkey Apartments, Riviera Maya Delightful, two-bedroom furnished garden apartment in beachside Puerto Morelos, Mexico. All amenities. Annual or seasonal. www.casabluemonkey.com APARTMENTS for RENT, from 3 days booking Barcelona, Mallorca, San Sebastian, Granada, Valencia, Lisbon, Paris, Rome, Florence, Milan, etc., Ideal short-term rental as a base to explore region, country do business, or for vacation. www.hitrental.com

SERVICES
I am moving household items door-to-door for individuals moving worldwide. I am removing this stress so that you can concentrate on all your other plans. Enjoy your adventures! My contact info is: stresslessintlmoving@gmail.com Live Well Ecuador: Travel, Adventure, Real Estate Read The Ecuador Chronicles www.livewellecuador.com

International Legal Services Attorney with twenty years experience in Asset Protection and estate planning, transactional law, real estate development, foreign corporations and Foundations, insurance planning, hedge and mutual funds. E-mail for your free report 15 Global Strategies to Protect Your Wealth Abroad. Contact Attorney Joel M. Nagel at 412-749-0500 or Nagellaw@aol.com. All communications condential.

Discipline is remembering what you want David Campbell, Founder Saks Fifth Avenue. www.advancedtradingworkshop.com.au

AMERICAN, BRITISH or EURO TV via the INTERNET. Live TV and TV on Demand anywhere in the world. From $19.95 to $29.95 monthly,based on prebuying 3,6 or 12 months. www.britishtvabroad.com US CPA, Tax Preparation- US residents or Expats. Prompt, friendly service, reasonable rates. Al Johnson, 760-567-0164, aj@albertsjohnsoncpa.com www.albertsjohnsoncpa.com

Junior Herbalist Course for Children (ages 8-14) Twelve lessons in PDF format. Perfect curriculum for parents, herbalists, herb farms or ecotourism centers. Visit www.herbaleducator.com or call Donna at 571-933-3022.

Thinking of retiring in Latin America ? Try it out in Ecuador for 3-6 months. Live in a community, see the country, learn the language and culture. Info: www.experience-ecuador.com

Reserve Your 2011 Ultimate Event Conference-at-Home Kit For the Lowest Price Possible The full price to attend this sold-out event was $1,295but you can secure yourself a copy of the 2011 Ultimate Event Conference-at-Home Kit for only $149 a mere fraction of what attendees paid to join us in Quito, Ecuador. But with this package, youll have the distinct advantage over those attending the conference: You can listen to all of the presentations, even those held simultaneously. Reserve your 2011 Ultimate Event Conference-at-Home Kit today, youll save a whopping $250 off the regular price. Instead of $399, youll pay just $149. Call 1-800-681-2402 today and mention code G121M201

PUBLICATIONS/MEDIA
USA PH 970-812-4363 RelocationServicesofEcuador.com There are no hidden costs. You are provided an estimate sheet, and contract which lays out our services, point by point. The whole process from the time your container is picked up in the USA, until it reaches your home in Ecuador, should be approximately 31 days. Over 40 years of experience. Get our 14 page free HELPFUL FACT SHEET. Relocationserviceecuador@gmail.com www.relocationservicesofecuador.com OFFSHORE LIVING & INVESTING and HOW TO LEGALLY PROTECT YOUR ASSETS Comprehensive guides for international investing, offshore banking, dual citizenship, privacy, foreign residency, international trusts, tax minimization, asset protection, risk management, portfolio diversication, foreign currencies, estate planning, and more. By Oxford Club Wealth Advisory Member, former judge, Top 100 Trial Lawyer, International Attorney, & author David Tanzer. www.DavidTanzer.com or 970-872-8304 to order EDIF. Acroplolis Ocinas XXX Av. Jose Peralta y Av. 12 de Abril Cuenca Ecuador president@bcsinvestmentrm.com Charles R. Barrett President & Dr. Galo Cardenas Atty. V.P Offer the services of obtaining residency visa, forming Corporations for $2,630 and investment consulting, how maximize & protect your investment. Up to 7.35% interested paid. Nikken: Discover it. Live it. Discover the Wealth in Wellness www.nikken.com/johnboyd

EDUCATION
WWW.CENTERFORSTUDYABROAD.COM

CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING RATES


$3.75 per word. Boldface or ALL CAPITAL words an additional $0.50 per word. To include a box around the advertisement is an additional $25. Picture $150.

OPPORTUNITIES
Internet business expanding, looking for independent business owners. Contact today www.myqivana.com/yolande

International Living subscribers receive a 20% discount. Deadline is six weeks preceding publication. Prepayment must accompany every classied ad. To place a classied ad please contact Niamh Cummins, ncummins@internationalliving. com, 011-353-51-309402. Space ads, online and email advertising options also available. Please contact Niamh Cummins for more information.

OFFSHORE SERVICES by licensed Practitioner. Formation and Administration of IBCs. Establishment of Trust & Trustee Services. US Dollar Bank Account. BEST RETIREE INVESTOR PROGAM in Belize. Contact: Intl Living Member, Santiago Gomez At International Services Ltd., Belize City, Belize. Tel: +501-223-2077 or Email: gomezisl@btl.net. Website: www.easetaxburden.com

EARN DOLLARS SPEND PESOS!!!!! Looking for leaders who want the DREAM LIFE. 310.961.2749 bradkish2002@yahoo.com

Goal $1000+/day, trading only few hours E-mini S&P500, DOW, Russell futures, 2-day training one-on-one private session in real time, futurestrading@leogindin.com, 678-701-9300

FEBRUARY 2011 INTERNATIONAL LIVING 43

The Last Word By Lee Harrison

Moving Abroad Is Not About EscapeIts About Choice

dont like to admit it, but for my rst 45 years I had my head in the sandgoing through life with blinders on. I had very little choice about how I lived, and wasnt even aware of it. Where I settledthe properties I bought and soldwhat I invested inthe retirement Id plannedand even the weather, were all taken from the standard set of options availent. . able to the average U.S. resident. In other words, I was mainstream. It was like this auImagine yourself in a restaurant with only two menu opth h tions; chicken or sh. And with those, you have a choice of green beans, corn, or mashed d potatoes. Thats the standard menu. e Now envision an extensive international menu, serving delicacies from all over the world. You can have a juicy , steak from Argentinaa rich, chicken stew simmered in aromatic spices from India fresh, home-made pastas from Italyan exciting new Chardonnay from New Zealandmouthwatering pastries from France hat You nd these items on what I call the expanded menu. And life is the same way. For most of it, I created lifestyle combinations from the standard menu. In other words, I lived the metaphoric equivalent of chicken, mashed potatoes and green beans. Frankly, I believed we already had the best of everything in the U.S., and saw no need to look further. So I never challenged this status quo until it came to retirement. The best standard menu option at my income level included working until I was 62, and then settling into a modest, fairly unexciting retirement. So I considered living abroadthe blinders came offand I began to explore the expanded menu. For starters there was the choice of retiring at 49 instead of 62. Thats a 13-year difference.

And it was by no means a modest or unexciting retirement. In fact, it was far more of an adventure than I had ever imagined. I found that I could live a luxurious lifestyle for almost nothing. The budget not only allowed for a nice home, but for two. I paid about $1 per gallon to fuel the car and around $200 per year in property taxesfor both properties.

I was able t choose bl to h among several places that had glorious weather every day of the year.
Perfect all-year-round weather was not an option before, since San Diego was out of my price range and I couldnt afford a winter home in Florida or Arizona. But by looking abroad, I was able to choose among several places that had glorious weather every day of the year. I found that real estate worked the same way. My traditional options were mostly limited to the U.S. But the expanded options included

countries with booming economies, strong housing markets and a rosy employment picture. In some cases, they were countries whose strong currencies were multiplying the earning power of my rapidly-weakening dollars. Let me give you an example. I bought a beachfront house in Brazil in 2009, and I sold it 10 months later for 33% more than what Id paid, in Brazilian reails. This alone was a windfall, given that the housin markets in the U.S. housing w were still sinking. But the gain was m multiplied by the fact With over 4,655 miles of coastline t that I was diversithere are plenty of ed outside the U.S. beaches to choose d dollar, at a time when from in Brazil. th dollar was losing the v value. So my 33% gain b became a 77% gain in dollar termsand it a good example its of the opportunity yo youll nd when youre us using lifes expanded me menu. These expanded op options of course, are not nothing newthey were the all along. there But I didnt see them or h about them hear unt I was part of the until worlds international culture. Until then, I was blinded by the paradigms and stereotypes that we Americans have about the rest of the world. Of course if youre reading this magazine, youve already taken the rst step, and opened up to the idea of expanding your horizons to everything the world offers. But keep in mind that opening up to the idea of living abroad doesnt give you an instant look at whats behind the curtain at least it didnt for me. Some of lifes new options will be obvious right awaybut it will take years of exciting discovery to fully appreciate the huge potential thats out there. In the end, youll see that is what moving abroad is really aboutchoices. Youre giving yourself all the options you deserve to make the most of your life.

44 INTERNATIONAL LIVING FEBRUARY 2011

RICARDO DE MATTOS/iSTOCK

Anda mungkin juga menyukai