jHusqvarna

VIKING

HUSQVARNA VIKING HUSKYLOCK OWNERS HANDBOOK Model 936

200 iViking Sewing Machines Inc. Printed in USA Part # 430 000032

INTRODUCTION
Welcome to the world of easy, speed sewing. The Husqvama Viking Huskylock was designed with the home sewer in mind. It is simple to thread, simple to change from regular sewing to cover stitch and specialty sewing, such as flatlock and rolled edge. The automatic thread tension release will help you in easy removal of your projects and creative sewing. This handbook is compiled in a method so you will thoroughly understand the machine and its potential After following these instructions, you will marvel at how easy your new Husqvarna Viking Huskylock serger is to operate.

SECTION I KNOW YOUR MACHINE

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MODEL 936

The top-of-the-line Huskylock model 936 is a computerized serger with built in Sewing Advisor, automatic self-adjusting stitch length and differential feed. It has a 6mm, 3mm and triple cover stitch, chain stitch, 5, 4, 3 and 2 thread capabilities. Also an adjustable stitch width and built in rolled edge. With many machines in one, you can sew with decorative threads and specialty applications with the optional accessory feet available. A section of this handbook outlines many different techniques, optional specialty feet, and simple, quick projects for you to try on your new Huskylock

Name of Parts
,

19

20

21

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9.

Presser foot pressure adjustment dial Spoolpin Thread take-up lever cover Thread guides Telescopic thread stand Thread tension dials Presser foot lift lever Thread cutter Thread guides for decorative thread / cording thread 10. Upper cutter knob 11.Presser foot 12. Sewing surface, flat bed cover 13. Cutting width / stitch width adjusting dial 14. Cutter cover 15. Front panel 16. Front cover 17. Handwheel 18. Sewing Advisor liquid crystal display (LCD) 19. Stitch finger

20. Upper cutter

21.Stitch finger lever 3

HUSKYLOCK SET UP AND MAINTENANCE

1. Set your Huskylock on a sturdy, flat surface. 2. Your Huskylock has been thoroughly oiled at the factory so be sure and wipe the needle and bed plate areas carefully before sewing a garment. Practice on a scrap of fabric so any surplus oil is absorbed. 3. FOOT CONTROL Push one end of the foot control cord into the foot control (first time only) and the other end into the machine near the on/off switch.
OFF

4. POWER/LIGHT SWITCH Plug in the power cord. To operate your machine, turn the power switch on. It is located at the bottom right hand side. The same switch controls both power and light. If leaving your Huskylock unattended, turn switch off. 5. OPENING FRONT COVER To open front cover, push part B at the arrow to the right and pull the cover down toward you. 6. CLOSING FRONT COVER Raise front cover (part B) and slide it toward the center of the front to close it. Note: Alwajs closefront cover when sewing. The front cover has a safqy switch which will not allow you to sew with thefront cover open. 7. PRESSER FOOT LIFT Lift up the presser foot lift to raise the presser foot. The foot lift stops at position A. When replacing the presser foot or when inserting very thick fabrics under the presser foot, the lift height can be increased by pushing the presser foot lift to position B and holding it there. Make sure the upper looper is in its lowest position. Note: You cannot sew with presserfoot up. Your Huskylock will beep and a message will come up on the Sewing Advisor Lower Presser Foot.

[verJ

Front cover

Presser foot ft Presser foot

8. HANDWHEEL Always turn handwheel toward you. If you turn handwheel away from you, you will flip the threads off the take-up lever. When this happens, your serger will no longer form a stitch, and you will need to re-thread.

9. CHANGING PRESSER FEET Switch of/your Husky/ock. Raise presser foot. Raise needles to their highest positionby turning handwheel toward you. Push red lever A and foot will come off. Position the new foot with pin right under the groove of the ankle. Lower presser foot lift and foot will snap onto the ankle. If it doesnt snap on easily, press red lever A with ft)ot and ankle down, and it should easily snap into place.

Remove
A

Attach

10. ADJUSTMENT OF THE PRESSER FOOT PRESSURE The presser foot pressure is pre-adjusted for materials of medium thickness. Adjustment is necessary only when you work on very thin or very thick materials. Accordin,gly, sew thinner materials with less pressure (i-N) and thicker materials with more pressure N-5). Increase the pressure of the presser foot by pressing the lever to the desired number. However, it may vary depending on the type of fabric and the technique you are serging.

11. FINE TUNE STITCH WIDTH If you experience loops along the edge of the fabric when sewing on lightweight fabrics, simply slide the stitch finger lever toward the one or two notches. Test sew on a scrap of the fabric you will be using for correct adjustment before beginning project.

Stitch finger lever

NIate

12. ACCESSORY BOX Lift the accessory box slightly (1) and slide it in direction of the arrow (2). The accesso v box consists of two parts. It holds the foot control and other accessories. To slide the box back on, reverse the above steps.

13. DISENGAGING UPPER CUTTER Open the front cover. To lower the upper cutter, remove the flat bed cover and the free arm cover by pulling respective covers in the direction of the arrows. Push in the knob to its maximum point and turn the upper cutter according to the arrows on the knob until cutter is all the way in down position. Note: unless31 ou are set uJr coverstitch or chainstitch, you MUST sew along the eage of thefabric when the cutter is disengaged. Failure to do so could lead to a bent or broken looper. Be sure to put cutter back in full upright position before beginning to serge regular seam.

14. SEWING SPEED You have three sewing speeds to choose for better control. 0-500 maximum speed 500 stitches/minute

iover r*ed flvto P1 5thr-e-d over lock 1.@ Lerrth: 2.5 Diff N AC N 4 5 3 N N
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Indlcatoc

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EL1 Speed
SeiGCtOf

0-1000 maximum speed 1000 stitches/minute 0-1300 maximum speed 1300 stitches/minute
-I

15. TELESCOPIC THREAD STAND Extend the telescopic thread stand to its full height and turn it until it locks against the stop. Make sure the round decorative thread loop is to the left.

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16. FREE ARM Pull out the flat bed cover (A) in the direction of the arrow, The free arm is convenient for sewing trousers legs, cuffs and other small areas such as childrens garments.
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17. OILING We suggest oiling after every 8 hours of serging or after it has not been used for awhile. Brush out all lint, then oil all moving parts.

18. CLEANING First, disconnect machine from power supply by

removing plug from electric outlet. Open front cover (see page 4). Using the brush provided, remove all dust and lint that has accumulated. Remember to also clean between the cutters often. Using mini vac attachment will clean the lint out of your Huskylock. Blowing inside or using canned air can force the lint into the serger.

STORAGE When the serger is not in use, disconnect it

from the power supply by removing plug from the electric outlet. Using the vinyl cover provided, cover your Huskylock when not in use.

HINTS FOR SUCCESSFUL STITCHING

An understanding of the following variables will make your Huskylock run smoothly and your serging look professional. Before sewing, always test the compatibility of your fabric, thread, pressure, stitch length and tension. THREAD SELECTION When selecting the proper thread, choose one that is compatible with the fabric. Polyester threads (or polyester based) are most commonly used for general sewing purposes. Threads of different fibers (cotton, rayon, silk, etc.) are available for special sewing. Quality is a very important consideration when selecting a thread. A thread of poor quality will result in operating and stitching problems on any type of sewing machine or serger. Twisting filaments together makes synthetic threads. Twisting short, leftover filaments of polyester together makes lower quality synthetic threads. The result is a hairy appearance and a weaker thread. Twisting long continuous filaments together makes better quality threads. This thread is stronger and smoother, thus fewer operating problems will occur. Brand name and price do not necessarily represent quality in a thread. The only true test of thread quality is close examination.

A variety of threads are available for overlocks. They may be of cotton, cotton-wrapped polyester, polyester or nylon (Wooly Nylon). These are most often put up on cones or tubes. Overlock threads are generally finer and lighter in weight than standard sewing machine thread. This is because of the large amount of thread that builds up in an overlock seam. Finer thread allows a less bulky seam. Your Huskylock will handle thread on cones or spools. Many decorative threads will be discussed later in this handbook.

NEEDLE REPlACEMENT
Replace needles in the following way: 1. Bring needles to their highest position by tapping the foot control or turning handwheel toward you. 2. Lower presser foot. 3. Remove alien wrench from accessory box. 4. When replacing right rear needle, loosen needle clamp screw marked D and remove needle. Hint: Use needle inserter to remove or insert needle to preventfrom dropping needle inside machine. Re-tighten needle clamp screw so it doesnt fall out. Be sure to store extra loose needles in needle cushion located in accessory box. To replace left rear needle, loosen needle clamp screw marked C. The front needles are used for cover stitch and chain stitch. Size 90 Schmetz should always be used in the front positions. The A or left front needle in used for chain stitch, left needle 6mm cover stitch and tn-cover stitch. The B or center front needle is used for left needle 3mm cover stitch or center needle for tn-cover stitch. You can also use the center needle for chain stitch. The E or right front needle is used for right needle 6mm or 3mm cover stitch. NOTE: You can also use the left front and center front needles for 3mm cover stitch. Be sure and adjust tensions accordingly. Insert needle with flat side away from you. Insert needle, using needle inserter, into groove of needle bar, as high as it will go. You should see the top of the needle in the window above needle clamp screw. Use Schmetz needles I 30/705H. Change needles after each project for best results. 9

NEEDLES, THREAD & FABRIC CHART

NEEDLES Proper needles are important when using your Husqvarna Viking Huskylock. A standard sewing machine needle of good quality, Schmetz brand, should be used in your Huskylock. Change needles often for best results. caution: Do not use Singer brand need/es injour I-Iuskji/ock. These can cause skbped stitches and possib/y bend or break need/es or damage /oopers. THREAD Any good quality cotton, polyester, silk, synthetic threads, etc. can be used on \our Huskylock. Wooly Nylon a stretchy, yarn-like thread, is recommended in upper and lower loopers for rolled edge and lingerie. It is also recommended for cover stitch looper for maximum strength and elasticity in swimwear, knit fabrics and lingerie.
,

FABRIC Lightweight: Organdy, Batiste, Calico Heavyweight: Oxford, Denim, Corduroy Lightweight: Tropical, Jersey, Crepe WOOL Medium weight: Gabardine, Flannel Heavy weight: Velours, Cameihairs Lightweight: SYNTHETIC Microfiber, Georgette, Crepe Heavyweight: Polar Fleece, Tafeta, Twills Lightweight: Tricot, Jersey, Lycra KNIT Heavyweight: Fleece

THREAD

NEEDLE

LINEN & COTTON

Cotton #80 Polyester #60-50 Cotton #60 Polyester #80 Cotton #60 Polyester #80-60 Cotton #60 Polyester #60-50 Cotton #60 Polyester #100-80 Cotton #120-80 Polyester #60 Cotton #60 Polyester #80-60 Cotton #80-60 Polyester #60-50 Wooly Nylon 10 75 (11) for light weight fabrics 80 (12) or 90 (14) for cover stitch or general sewing

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SEWING ADVISOR
The Sewing Advisor (LCD Display Guide) shows all stitch settings. Simply select the type and weight of fabric you will be sewing on and the technique desired (16 pre-set settings) and the stitch length and differential feed will be automatically set for you. All other settings are recommended for the best results. The buttons below can either be pressed 2 one step at a time or held until the desired setting is obtained. N 1. A Auto button. Press for Auto mode. 2. M= Memory button. Press to retrieve E*D U U U stored settings or store new setting preferences in memory. 3. Stitch selector button. Retrieve the 16 pre-set stitches in Auto mode. 4. Fabric selection button. Select fabric types in Auto mode. Choose from 6 types and weights. 5. Cursor button. Access Manual mode to enter and/or alter settings. Cursor moves as follows: Stitch Length Differential Feed Stitch Width Thread Tensions. In Memory mode: Cursor moves to stored memories. 6-7. Plus (+) and minus (-) buttons in Manual mode: Settings increase (+) or decrease (-). In Memory mode: Cursor moves to stored memories. 8. Speed Speed selection button choose from 3 speeds.

SPEED

U
SPEED

Information displayed in Sewing Advisor: Auto mode and stitch number (Auto P1) Fabric type and weight (Woven med) A Not advised message appears when the setting is not recommended for the type of fabric selected. Stitch description (5 thread overlock) Automatic Stitch Length setting (Length: 2.5) Automatic Differential Feed setting (Diff 1.0) Stitch Finger position (N) for normal or R for rolled Needle position (AC) which needles to insert Stitch Width (N) Recommended stitch/cutting width is displayed. A L in the Sewing Advisor is displayed for techniques in which the cutter needs to be lowered; coverstitch and chainstitch.

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Thread tensions (N N N N N) The recommended thread tension is displayed. Each thread tension dial corresponds to color symbols from left to right.

Note: When first turning on your Huskylock or when selecting a new technique, the Sewing Advisor will say Use Accessory Type S Press Auto Button Your Sewing Advisor is telling you to use the S foot, 5 plate and have the Chain/Cover select lever on S. Likewise, if it says Use Accessory Type C Press Auto Button Your Sewing Advisor is telling you to use the C foot, C plate and have the Chain/Cover select lever on C. Press Auto button (A) to give you the rest of the information needed to set up for that technique, i.e.: tensions, needles, stitch width, etc.

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STORING NEW SETTINGS IN MEMORY

1. After changing the setting in Manual Mode, press the M button and the memory number will blink. If the blinking memory number is already used, Overwrite OK? message appears and blinks. 2. If you want to overwrite, press the M button. 3. Example: Memory 01 has something saved in it and states overwrite ok? 4. If you do not want to overwrite, press the (+) button until you reach an empty memory. When the memory is empty, Memory empty blinks. Press the M button to store. 5. If you do not want to overwrite or store, press the A button to leave the memory mode. Example: Press the (+) button twice and memory number 3, which is empty, will be displayed. 6. There are 50 personal memories available. Make notes in the hack of your Owners manual as you store memories for later reference. Retrieve from memory: 1. When turning on the power switch, the recommended standard settings are displayed. 2. Press the M button. Now Memory will appear with the last setting you made before turning off the machine. 3. Select the memory you want to use by pressing the (+) or (-) buttons. 4. You are now ready to sew. Delete from memory: 1. Press the M button. Now Memory appears with the last setting you made before turning off the machine. 2. Select the memory you wish to delete by pressing the (+) or (-) buttons. 3. Then press the stitch selector button and the fabric selector button simultaneously. Now Clear Memor appears and starts to blink. Note: If you want to cancel the deletion, release both keys. 4. Press the M button while pressing the stitch selection button and the fabric selection button at the same time to execute the deletion. 5. Memory Empty appears and the settings are deleted. Press the A button for standard settings.

01 Ijn re 1_R..er ijrjt. a:k? Length: 3. Diff : i0 N C: [I

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SPEED

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C C C C C

SPEED

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SPEED

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SECTION II THREADING & TENSION

Preparation for Threading Cone Holders For large cones of thread, use the white plastic cone holders. This will help hold the cone of thread in place.

Spool Caps When using small spoois or decorative threads, remove the plastic cone holders (a drop of oil will make the holder slide off easily). Place the spool directly on the spool pin. Use the spool cap to keep the spool in place and to prevent the thread from catching on edges of the spool.

L1

Thread Nets Spools of specialty thread sometimes work loose from the spool during sewing, causing tangling or irregular thread feeding. To prevent this, use the thread net provided as shown. Slide on the net so that it covers the spool entlreiv.

NOTE: Specialty threads, such as fine perle cotton, YLI Designer 6, Ribbon Floss, YLI Jeans Stitch and YLI Pearl Crown Rayon may be used in the loopers of your Huskylock. For successful stitching be sure these threads feed off their spools or skeins easily.

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THREADING
Your Huskylock is very easy to thread. With some practice you will be able to thread it in a few minutes. Master the correct threading before starting your first project. To become familiar with your Huskylock, practice on a scrap of fabric with different color threads to identify placement and function of each thread. Threading must be carried out in the following sequence for total ease of operation: Upper Looper Lower Looper Cover Stitch Looper Right Needle Left Needle.

Extend the thread pole to its highest point, then turn it until the shaft clicks into its locked position (see page 6).

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FOUR THREAD OVERLOCK UPPER LOOPER THREADING

Open front cover. Raise the presser foot. Bring the upper looper to its highest position by turning the handwheel toward you. Pull thread from spooi and lay it into slot (1) on the top of the thread stand (front to back) dropping the thread over the back. The end of the thread will come back to the front automatically because of the twist in the thread guides on the top of the thread stand. Next, bring thread down and snap into thread clip guide (2). It is easiest to snap into clip by puffing thread toward back and front of Huskylock at the same time (like flossing) until the thread snaps into place. NOTE: Use decorative thread guides instead of thread clip guides when using heavier decorative threads. With the presser foot raised to release the tensions, lay thread between thread tension discs (3). Be sure thread is seeded all the way into the tension discs by snapping into discs. Continue to thread in order, through guides as illustrated to right and inside front cover of your Huskylock. Thread the eye of the Upper Looper using the tweezers provided. Pull a 4 5 (10cm) thread tail out. Bring thread tail under foot and toward back left corner of Huskylock.

F
,-

F-

NOTE: For all sewing except two-thread sewing, set the 2-thread converter as illustrated to right.
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FOUR THREAD OVERLOCK LOWER LOOPER THREADING

Bring the thread from the spool up and over the thread stand, laying thread front to back (same as for Upper Looper, page 16) through slot (1). Bring thread down and snap into thread clip guide (2) (same as for Upper Looper). NOTE: Use decorative thread guides instead of thread clip guides when using heavier decorative threads. With the presser foot raised to release tension, lay thread between thread tension discs (3). Be sure thread is seeded all the way into the tension discs. Turn the handwheel toward you and position the lower looper to the far right. Continue threading in order, through guides as illustrated to right and inside front cover of your Huskylock. NOTE: For best results when sewing narrow edge, thread through guide (a). Push lever (A) of lower looper in direction of the arrow until the thread holes are in front of each other. Thread through the eyes of the lower looper. The lower looper threader automatically returns to its original position by turning the handwheel toward you one full turn, or when you begin sewing.

Pull Out 4-5 (10cm) thread tail, then bring thread tail under foot and toward the back left corner of the Huskylock.

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FOUR THREAD OVERLOCK NEEDLE THREADING

Raise the needles to their highest position by turning the handwheel toward you. The left rear needle is marked with a letter C and the right rear needle is marked with a letter D. Bring the thread from the spool and pass it through the guides on thread stand (1)(front to back), then under thread clip guide (2). Lay thread between tension discs (3). Be sure thread is seeded all the way into the tension discs. Follow thread guides and arrows on your Huskylock for each needle thread. Be sure to separate on each side of guide (A) with the left thread on the left side of the thread separator and the right thread on the right side. This will help prevent the threads from tangling while sewing.

Using needle threader (located in the accessory box), lay the thread across the V (groove) of the needle threader. Hold needle threader to the needle with the triangle mark on top. Slide it down the needle to the needle eye. The pin and thread will insert through the eye, leaving a loop of thread through the eve of the needle. Using the tweezers, pull loop of thread through eye of needle. Thread both needles the same way.

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TESTING STITCH
After threading is complete, set tensions as recommended in Sewing Advisor. Test your Huskylock stitch in the following order: 1. Be sure the front cover is closed and presser foot is lowered. Your Huskylock will not sew with the front cover open or the presser foot up. A beep will sound and a message will appear in the Sewing Advisor LCD display screen, telling you to Close front cover or Lower presser foot. 2. Without fabric under the presser foot, gently puil the ends of the threads toward the rear of the machine, turning the handwheel toward you a few times to make sure the stitch forms on the stitch finger. 3. Sew on scrap fabric first, When you reach the end of the fabric, raise the presser foot and remove the fabric from your Huskylock. Use the handy thread cutter on your Huskylock to cut your threads. Use the illustrations on page 21 to check the stitch formation produced to see if it is uniform. If not, you will need to adjust tensions and /or re-check threading.

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4 THREAD OVERLOCK THREAD TENSIONS

Thread tensions will vary according to the type and weight (thickness) of your thread and fabric. In most cases these tensions will only vary slightly. Turning the tension dial to a lower number gives you less tension. Threading your Huskylock with four different colors of thread will help you identify the placement and function of each thread. Upper Looper Thread should be flat on the top side of fabric and lock with the lower looper thread along the edge. Lower Looper Thread should be flat on the underside of the fabric and lock with the upper looper thread along the edge. The Needle Threads should lay mainly on the top side like two rows of normal straight sewing. The left needle will form a line of sewing along the left edge connecting the two looper threads. The right needle acts as a safety stitch forming a line of stitching through the middle of the upper looper thread. Set your Huskylock according to the tensions recommended in the Sewing Advisor. Try test sewing on a piece of medium weight fabric. These tension recommendations are for medium weight fabric. It may be necessary to adjust the thread tension(s) slightly as different weights of fabric and thread can make a difference. Your tensions should remain in the outlined area on the tension dial. If you need to change the tensions, mark them down for future reference or put them in one of the 50 personal memories (page 13).

Left Needle (Yellow) Right Needle (Red) Upper Looper (Green) Lower Looper (Blue)

-NW -N-N-N

We will refer to these tensions as normal.

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4 THREAD OVERLOCK ADJUSTING THREAD TENSION

Correct Tension

Lower looper thread Right needle thread

r>>
1)

Upper Looper Thread Pulled to the Underside

Lower Looper Thread Pulled to the Topside

1D

]
Lower looper thread Left needle thread Right needle thread Upper looper thread

c
Il

>IIll
lli

II5I

II3I

I3I

Upper looper thread

Lower looper thread Left needle L thread

Left needle thread

L Right needle

thread Upper looper thread

Increase upper looper thread tension and/or decrease lower looper tension

Increase lower looper thread tension and/or decrease upper looper tension.

Left Needle Thread Loose and visible on underside of fabric.

Right Needle Thread Loose and visible on underside of fabric.

Wrong side

Lower looper thread Left needle thread

Right side

Right needle thread Upper looper thread

Increase left needle tension and/or decrease both loopers.

Increase right needle thread tension.

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SECTION III

BASIC SEWING TECHNIQUES

Sew samples for the next section of this handbook, and record your tension settings on each page for future reference. Glue or staple your sample over drawn sample or on opposite page for future reference. The following techniques are designed to help you finish seams, turn corners easily and give you tips to get the most Out of your Huskylock.

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FOUR THREAD SEAM & SEAM FINISH

Seam and overcast all in one step. Your Huskylock produces fast. Professionally finished garments.

Machine Setting: 4 thread Overlock Accessory Type: S Fabric Type: Woven Medium Tension Settings: Set your tensions on normal setting. Left Needle (Yellow) Right Needle (Red) Upper Looper (Green) Lower Looper (Blue) -N-N-N-

Seam and Overcast: 1. Fold fabric in half. 2. Place under presser foot with folded edge to be trimmed to the right. 3. Use your 5/8 seam allowance as a guide. 4. Lower presser foot and serge seam. 5. Continue serging a thread chain, leaving 6-8. 6. Lift the presser foot and pull your sample away, cutting the threads on the thread cutter.

To overcast raw edges for conventional seaming: Serge single layer along one edge of above sample to finish raw cut edge of fabric. Glue or staple your sample over drawing above or on opposite page.

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ADJUSTING STITCH LENGTH

Select any fabric type and technique on your Sewing Advisor and your stitch length will button and the be automatically set. To override the selected stitch length, touch the button to change the stitch length setting will begin blinking. Touch the + or setting. When you begin to sew, your Huskylock will automatically change the stitch length to the new setting. There is a brief pause of the machine for the adjustment to be made.
-

Machine Setting: 4 thread Overlock Accessory Type: S Stitch Length: I 5 (see illustration below)

Fabric Type: Woven Medium Tension Settings: Set your tensions on normal setting. Left Needle Yellow) Right Needle (Red) Upper Looper (Green) Lower Looper (Blue) -N -N -N

Serge: I. Fold fabric in half. 2. Change stitch length to 5mm. 3. Serge along edge, stopping every inch and decreasing stitch length to 4, then 3, etc.

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ADJUSTING CUTTING WIDTH & FINE TUNE STITCH WIDTH

The cutting width can be adjusted from 5mm to 7mm by simply turning the cutting
width dual according to the type of fabric you are working with. The fine tune stitch width allows you to achieve the best stitch possible on all fabric types, while preventing loops along the edge of the fabric. To adjust the fine tune stitch width, slide the stitch finger toward you one or two markings.

The normal setting for the cutting width isN. Adjust the cutting width by turning dial (a) on the front of your Huskylock. If the cutting width is narrower than the stitch width, leaving loops along the edge of the fabric, turn the cutting width dial toward 7 or slide the fine tune stitch width adjustment lever (21)forward one to two notches to eliminate looping. If the cutting width is wider than the stitch width, causing a pucker within the overlock seam, turn the cutting width adjustment dial toward 5 or slide the fine tune stitch width adjustment lever away from you to the normal setting.

Cutting Width Adjustment

f-

%%

Fine Tune Stitch Width Adjustment

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__________ _________

ADJUSTING CUTTING WIDTH

The cutting width can be changed for different techniques and types of fabric. Loosely woven or heavy knit fabrics require a wider width while lighter weight fabrics require a narrower seam width.

Machine Setting: 4 thread Overlock Accessory Type: S Stitch Width: N and 7 Fabric Type: Woven Medium Tension Settings: Set your tensions on normal setting.
Left Needle (Yellow) Right Needle (Red) Upper Looper (Green) Lower Looper (Blue)

-N-N-N -N

Serge: 1. Serge along one edge of fabric with the stitch width on 5mm. 2. Serge along the opposite edge of the fabric with the stitch width on 7mm. 3. For a narrow or wide stitch width, see three thread techniques on page 38.
sewing

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SECURING BEGINNING & END OF SEAM

At most ends of seams and finished edges are later stitched over during garment construction, it is often not necessary to lock ends. When needed, use one of the following methods. Machine Setting: 4 thread Overlock Accessory Type: S Fabric Type: Woven Medium Tension Settings: Set your tensions on normal setting. Left Needle (Yellow) Right Needle (Red) Upper Looper (Green) Lower Looper (Blue) -N-N-N-

Securing Beginning of Seam: 1. Fold fabric in half. 2. Stitch 2-3 stitches into fabric, then stop sewing. 3. Raise presser foot. Bring chain around left side of foot and under front of cutter. 4. Lower presser foot and sew, cutting off excess chain. Securing End of Seam: 1. Sew to end of fabric. 2. Raise presser foot to release thread tensions and pull fabric 1 from foot toward back left corner. 3. Re-insert fabric under foot about I from end and serge over previous stitching. 4. With needles raised, raise presser foot and pull sample out. Use thread cutter to cut threads. Optional Securing Methods: 1. You may tie a knot in the thread ends. This method requires about 3 of extra thread chain. After tying knot, ttim ends. TM 2. Use a small amount of Fray Stoppa at the ends. Thread ends into the finished seam. This requires one or two inches of thread at the 3. end and is usually the best choice for decorative finishes. Using a large eyed needle, thread end of threads through eye, and slide back under stitching to conceal.

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OUTSIDE CORNERS
With a little practice, you can stitch neat outside corners on your Huskylock. This technique is perfect for napkins, tablecloths and decorative threads.

Machine Setting: 4 thread Overlock Accessory Type: S Fabric Type: Woven Medium Tension Settings: Set your tensions on normal setting. Left Needle (Yellow) Right Needle (Red) Upper Looper (Green) Lower Looper (Blue) -N-N-N-

Serge: 1. Sew along one side of fabric to corner without cutting fabric. (Use cutter as a guide.) 2. Raise the needles and presser foot to release thread tensions. 3. Gently slide the threads off the stitch finger of the needle plate by pulling fabric toward back of Huskylock approximately . 4. Grasp the fabric gently and turn the corner. 5. Re-align the edge of the fabric, having cut edge of the fabric against the cutter on the right and up to the needles in back. 6. Pull up slack in threads at top by cones. 7. Lower presser foot. 8. Serge along next edge. 9. Repeat for remaining corners. To finish fourth corner, chain off end and thread 2-3 chain tail through large eyed needle. Slide needle with thread tail up under stitching to conceal end and to secure end.

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INSIDE CORNERS
Practice the inside corner technique for perfect finishes for Christmas stockings, oven mits or kick pleats on skirts. Machine Setting: 4 thread Overlock Accessory Type: S Fabric Type: Woven Medium (Cut a square out of one corner) Tension Settings: Set your tensions on normal setting. Left Needle (Yellow) Right Needle (Red) Upper Looper (Green) Lower Looper (Blue) -N-N-N-

Serge: 1. Align the edge along inside edge of cutter, with bulk of fabric to the left. 2. Serge, stopping 1/2 from the inside corner. Tap foot control to lower needles into fabric. NOTE: Your cutter is 1/2 in front of the needles, so you must fold fabric away from the cutter before reaching the corner to prevent cutting into corner. 3. Pull fabric into a straight line with remaining edge against inside edge of the cutter. There will be some tucks in the edge. These should lay flat after stitching. 4. Continue to serge along the edge. Sleeve Placket: 1. Cut a 2 1/2 slit in a second piece of fabric. 2. Cut a strip of fabric 1 x 5. 3. Fold strip in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. 4. Lay strip on slit with right sides together. 5. Using inside corner technique, stitch strip to opening forming a placket.

29

CORDED OVERLOCK
The Specialty Technique Guide for cording allows you to use decorative cording or fishline easily without having to hold cord while serging. Thread cord through the ioop at the extreme left of the thread stand, through the guide on the left of the machine and through the hole in the presser foot. The Specialty Technique guide allows cord to feed freely through the foot then covered by the overlock stitch. Ribbon or cording can be used to stabilize where stress occurs; joining shoulder seams, sleeves, side seams, etc. You can also use it for a decorative look in areas which are visible. Use filler cord, perle cotton, twill tape, gimp cord, wool yarn. Elastic thread, fishline, ribbon, etc. Machine Setting: 3 or 4 thread Overlock Accessory Type: S Fabric Type: Knit Medium Sweatshirt Fleece & 1/8
Tension Settings:

3/16 Ribbon

Set your tensions on normal setting. Left Needle (Yellow) Right Needle (Red) Upper Looper (Green) Lower Looper (Blue) -N-N-N-N-

Serge: 1. Feed ribbon through guides and front hole on foot. Slide ribbon under foot to needles. 2. Fold fabric in half with stretch along edge to be sewn. 3. Serge with four thread seam to stabilize seam. 4. Serge with three thread seam for decorative look. 5. Use the back hole in presser foot for cording, fishline, etc.

30

RIBBING
Your Huskylock will finish, trim and allow the fabric to stretch while retaining its original shape.
Machine Setting:

4 thread Overlock Accessory Type: S

Fabric Type:

Knit Medium (Sweatshirt Fleece and Ribbing

Tension Settings:

Set your tensions on normal setting. Left Needle (Yellow) Right Needle (Red) Upper Looper (Green) Lower Looper iue)
Serge:

-N-N-N-N-

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Cut a curved neckline in fabric. Fold ribbing in half lengthwise. Place ribbing on neckline with cut edges even. Serge, stretching ribbing to meet neck edge. When attaching ribbing in a circle, such as a neckline or cuffs, serge around circle until your stitches overlap one inch. Tap foot control to raise needles, raise the presser foot and remove garment. Cut threads using the thread cutter. Use the free arm for cuffs and necklines,

31

_____

____________ ____

CASING OR HEM FOLD

Try this easy technique for T-shirt hems, elastic and drawstring waistbands or curtain rod casings. Machine Setting: 4 thread Overlock Accessory Type: S Fabric Type: Woven Medium Tension Settings: Set your tensions on normal setting. Left Needle Yellow Right Needle (Red) Upper Looper (Green) Lower Looper (Blue) -N-N-N -N

Serge: 1. Measure and fold the desired depth for the casing. 2. Hold the folded fabric with wrong side facing you. 3. Turn the casing underneath so the fabric is in an 5 shape. 4. Serge along the fold with the wrong side up, catching both needles into fold of fabric.

32

BLIND HEM
A blind hem is quick and easy with your Huskylock and the Multi-purpose foot.

Machine Setting: 4 thread Overlock Accessory Type: S Fabric Type: Woven Medium Tension Settings: Set yotir tensions on normal setting. Left Needle (Yellow) Right Needle (Red) Upper Looper (Green) Lower Looper (Blue) -N-______ -N-______ -N-______
Final hem length Fig, 1

Screw

Serge: 1. Replace standard foot 5 with multi-purpose foot. Press hem to the required depth (fig. 1). Fold the hem back against the right side of the garment, creating a soft fold on the wrong side of the fabric in the shape of a backward 5. 2. Place fabric under presser foot with wrong side up. Feed folded edge into the guide in the front of the r foot and lower presser foot. Sew several stitches on a scrap of fabric and adjust the guide so needle just catches edge of fold. To adjust the guide screw, loosen the screw on top of the foot. Shift the guide to the right or left as needed, and re-tighten the screw

Final hem length

Guide

Fig. 2

3. When correctly set sew the hem. The outside edge will be cut away by the Huskylock (fig. 2). With the I upper looper tension set on 8; the threads will pull to the topside to allow the hem to lay flat. After completion, open out and press again. The stitches should be almost invisible on the right side of the fabric (fig. 3).
Hint: When starting a hem in the round, trim a small section of the hem so the fabric

can be inserted totally under the foot and onto the feed teeth.

33

SECTION IV AUTOMATIC, SELF-ADJUSTING DIFFERENTIAL FEED

Differential feed allows you to sew many different types of fabrics, eliminating puckering on lightweight woven fabrics and stretching on knits. When using a serger without differential feed, puckering and wavering are unavoidable on some fabrics. Your Huskylock automatically adjusts the differential feed for fabric and technique selected in the Sewing Advisor. our Husky lock has two sets of feed teeth. Each set of feed teeth has an individual feed mechanism which enables the feeding of fabric at a different ratio, therefore, feeding more or less fabric into the back teeth giving the desired result. The differential feed setting can be changed in the Sewing Advisor. Touch the twice until the differential + or feed setting begins to blink. Touch the buttons to the desired setting. When you begin to sew, the machine will automatically change the setting. There will be a slight pause while the change is being made.
-

NNN

Fabric

Differentil feed 1.0

Seing

Result

Stretch material

Knit Jersey

1 0-2 5

Non-stretch

material

Normal thick woven

1
34

1 0

Very thin material

Silk-silky knitwear

0. 0.

_________
_________

SERGING LIGHTWEIGHT FABRICS Negative Differential Feed

Some lightweight fabrics may pucker when serged. This can be prevented by using a negative differential feed setting of 0.5 0.9. Negative differential feed means the front feed teeth feed the fabric slower than the back feed teeth to hold the fabric taut and prevent puckering. Your Huskylock will automatically adjust the differential feed for lightweight fabrics when you select woven or knit light. You may wish to adjust that setting slightly depending on your fabric. Always test sew a scrap of your fabric. See page 34 for overriding the automatic setting.
-

Machine Setting: 4 thread overlock Accessory Type: S Differential Feed: Change to 1.0, then 0.5 Fabric Type: Woven light Tension Settings: Set your tensions on normal setting. Left Needle (Yellow) Right Needle (Red) Upper Looper (Green) Lower Looper (Blue) -N-N-N-N-

Serge: 1. Change the differential feed to the normal setting of 1.0. Lower the presser foot. 2. Fold fabric in half and serge a seam along one edge. There may be slight puckering. 3. Change the differential feed to 0.5. 4. Serge along opposite edge. This seam should be pucker-free thanks to your differential feed.

35

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SERGING STRETCH OR BULKY KNITS Positive Differential Feed

When serging stretch knits such as ribbing or bulky sweater knits, the seams tend to be wavy. This can be corrected by using the positive differential feed settings of 1.1 2.5. Positive differential feed means the front feed teeth feed faster than the rear feed teeth. This prevents knit fabrics from stretching while serging.
-

Machine Setting: 4 thread Overlock Accessory Type: S Differential feed: 1.0 then change to 2.5 Fabric Type: Knit heavy (Rib knit) Tension Settings: Set your tensions on normal setting. Left Needle (Yellow) Right Needle (Red) Upper Looper (Green) Lower Looper (Blue)

-N-N-N-

Serge: 1. Change differential feed to 1.0 (see page 34 to override automatic setting. 2. Serge a seam along one edge, sewing with the stretch of the fabric. Your seam will look stretched and wavy. 3. Change differential feed to 2.5. Serge opposite edge of your sample. This seam will lay flat. Note: You have a wide range of settings from the 1.0 setting to the 2.5 setting which enables you to serge a variety of fabric weights and types with perfect results.

36

_________

GATHERING
You will never want to gather again with cording that breaks and bobbins that run out of thread. Save time by gathering riffles and skirts to bodices by using the differential feed on your Huskylock. Machine Setting: 4 thread Overlock Accessory Type: S Stitch Length: Override Sewing Advisor to 5.0 (see page 24) Differential Feed: Override Differential Feed to 2.5 (see page 34) Fabric Type: Woven light Tension Settings: Left Needle (Yellow) Right Needle (Red) Upper Looper (Green) Lower Looper (Blue)

-N-N-N-

Serge: 1. Place fabric under presser foot and serge one inch. 2. Place the forefinger of your left hand behind the foot and apply a small amount of pressure to the fabric as it emerges from under the presser foot. 3. After the length of fabric has been gathered, stop serging. Tap the foot control to raise the needles, then raise the presser foot and remove your fabric. Leave about a 1O-12 thread tail as you may wish to adjust your gathers. Adjust gathers by pulling needle threads (the two straight threads not the loops) 4. Be sure to put needle tensions back on N to prevent breaking the needle threads if serging off the edge of the fabric.

Hint: Increasing the presser foot pressure to 5 will also help gather more, as more

pressure is applied to the fabric by the foot while it sews. Variation: Try using this technique on lace to make lace rosettes.

37

SECTION V 3-THREAD SEWING TECHNIQUES

Use a three-thread seam for maximum stretch on knits or for an edge finish for seams you prefer to seam with a straight stitch on a sewing machine, then press open. The three-thread edge finish prevents raveling of your fabrics allowing your seam to lay flat.

THREE-THREAD SEAM OR EDGE FINISH

Three-thread Huskylock techniques allow a single seam and lighter edge finish for medium to light weight fabrics. Using your left needle will give you a wider stitch width for medium weight fabrics. Using the right needle will give you a narrow stitch width seam for lightweight fabrics. Machine Setting: 3 thread Wide Overlock Accessory Type: S Fabric Type: Woven medium Tension Settings: Left Needle (Yellow) Right Needle (Red) Upper Looper (Green) Lower Looper (Blue) Serge: 1. Fold fabric in half. 2. Serge a wide three-thread seam. For 3 thread narrow overlock stitch, use right needle only (page 54).

-N-______ Removed -N-N-______

38

_________ ___________

SAFELOCK
This technique is excellent for reversible garments because it produces finished seams on both sides. It also works great on seams where durability is needed. The straight stitching to complete this technique does require a sewing machine. Machine Setting: 3 thread Wide Overlock Accessory Type: S Stitch Width: 6-7mm Use Left Needle C only Fabric Type: Knit medium (sweatshirt fleece) Tension Settings: Left Needle (Yellow) Right Needle (Red) Upper Looper (Green) Lower Looper (Blue)

-3Removed -3-N-

Serge: 1. Fold fabric in half with wrong sides together. 2. Serge seam along folded edge. 3. Press the seam to one side and stitch flat using a straight stitch on your Husqvarna Viking sewing machine. 4. Try using decorative threads in your upper or lower looper for a decorative look. Opliona/. Save safelock technique settings in one of 50 of your personal memories (see page 13).

39

_________ _________

DECORATIVE EDGES
Your Huskylock has practically unlimited decorative possibilities using different threads for binding, edging, tucks, etc. Experiment with regular sewing threads, embroidery floss, metallic, topstitching threads, perle cotton, fine yarns, threads, etc. Use decorative threads in the upper looper and/or lower looper.

Machine Setting: 3 thread Wide Overlock Accessory Type: S Stitch Length: 2.5-5 (see page 24 to override) Stitch Width: 6-7 mm Thread: Regular cone thread lower looper and left needle Decorative thread of choice upper looper Use Left Needle C only

Fabric Type: Woven heavy (denim) Tension Settings: Left Needle (Yellow) Right Needle (Red) Upper Looper (Green) Lower Looper (Blue) -NRemoved 1-3-N-

Note: When working with heavier decorative threads, you may find you need to loosen your upper looper tension. When working with finer threads, you may need to tighten it. The general rule is as follows: the heavier the thread, the lower the tension and the longer the stitch length. Serge: 1. Thread decorative or specialty thread through upper looper. 2. Stitch around denim square until the stitches meet. 3. Use one of the finishing techniques on page 27. 4. Save special decorative edge technique settings in memory for future use (see page 13). 5. Attach sample to opposite page for reference. Note: When using a mixture of threads, such as regular cone thread combined with heavy decorative threads, it may be necessary to make tension adjustments. Be sure to test your stitch on a scrap of the same material before sewing your project. Optional: For a reversible decorative look, thread decorative threads in upper and lower looper. 40

___

___

DECORATIVE BRAIDS
or cording. Use g over a narrow ribbon, braid id can be made by sergin ry floss, Decorative bra x them for variety. Embroide same color threads, or mi three of the oking braid. thread will give you a full-lo dlewicking and topstitching can Machine Setting: 3 Thread Wide Overlock Accessory Type: S Stitch Length: 2.5-5 Stitch Width: 7 er looper Thread: Decorative in upp Fabric Type: Woven Medium Tension Settings: Left Needle (Yellow) Right Needle (Red) Upper Looper (Green) Lower Looper (Blue) -NRemoved -1-4-

d slightly to sions will need to be lowere upper and lower looper ten Note: The e threads. accommodate the decorativ l Serge: h needles, the right needle wil dles as desired. If you use bot st 1. Use one or two nee p it from shifting. Under mo h the braid or ribbon and kee stitch throug dle only. you circumstances, use the left nee not cut the braid or ribbon the needle plate as a guide. Do de the braid 2. Use the edge of nal Elastic/Taping foot to gui ing over. Hint: Use the Optio are sew g (see page 68 for directions). in ribbon perfectly without cuttin or u will encase the braid or ribbon er the presser foot and sew. Yo 3. Feed braid und the stitching. single braid, or entwined with be sewn to other garments as a 4. Finished braid can tive trim. other braids to create a decora

41

___________ __________

_________

3 THREAD FLATLOCK/LADDER STITCH & SEAMS

This technique uses three threads to serge a ladder or treliis stitch used for topstitching or as a decorative stitch on one side of the fabric and a flatlock seam on the other. It can be used on knits, tricot, even fake furs and soft leather to serge decoratively and eliminate bulk. Machine Setting: 3 Thread Fladock Accessory Type: S Accessory Foot: Multi-Purpose Fabric Type: Knit Medium or woven heavy (sweatshirt fleece or denim) Tension Settings: Left Needle (Yellow) Right Needle (Red) Upper Looper (Green) Lower Looper (Blue)
-0-1Removed -2-5-6-8-

Note: If the ladder stitch is desired on the right side of the garment, fold fabric in half with right sides together. If flatlock stitch is desired on the right side, fold fabric in half with wrong sides together. Serge: 1. Place fold of fabric along left edge of Multi-Purpose guide. This foot will prevent cutting your fabric. 2. Sew along the edge of the folded fabric. For best results, allow stitches to loop slightly off the edge. 3. Open fabric up and gently pull apart to reveal ladder stitch. 4. Adjust tensions as needed for a flat stitch. 5. Try a rayon thread in the needle for a decorative ladder stitch or in your upper looper for the fladock.

Ladder stitch

42

__________ __________

_________

3 THREAD FLATLOCK TECHNIQUE LACE APPLICATION

Using the flatlock stitch, apply lace to lingerie the same as in the commercial industry in better ready-to-wear.

Machine Setting: 3 Thread flatlock Accessory Type: S Accessory Foot: Multi-Purpose Fabric Type: Knit Light (tricot Edging lace Tension Settings: Left Needle (Yellow) -1Right Needle (Red) Removed Upper Looper (Green) -3Lower Looper (Blue) -7Note: For wider seams, use left needle only. For narrower seams, used on very fine fabrics and laces, use right needle only. Serge: 1. Place lace on top of tricot near edge with right sides together. 2. Align lace edge along guide on Multi-Purpose foot (see page 42). 3. Serge lace to tricot. 4. Open lace and tricot, gently pulling apart to reveal ladder stitch. Him: If tricot is rolled under within seam, gently hold tricot in one hand and lace in other hand and wiggle back and forth, one side going away from you while the other side is coming toward you. This will allow fabric to lay flat within the seam.

43

_________

_________

3 THREAD FLATLOCK TECHNIQUE LINGERIE ELASTIC APPLICATION

Using the flatlock method to apply lingerie elastic allows the elastic to lay flat without curling, as in better ready-to-wear.

Machine Setting: 3 Thread Flatlock Accessory Type: S Accessory Foot: Multi-Purpose Stitch length: 5.0 (override Sewing Advisor see page 24) Note: The stitch length is increased because the fewer stitches sewn into elastic, the more elasticity it will have, allowing the elastic to return to its normal size.

Fabric Type: Knit Light (tricot) 3/8 lingerie elastic Tension Settings: Left Needle (Yellow) Right Needle (Red) Upper Looper (Green) Lower Looper (Blue) -0-1Removed -2-4-6-8-

Serge: 1. With right sides together, lay edge of elastic (picot edge to left) along cut edge of sample. 2. Align fabric with Multi-Purpose foot guide. 3. Serge, stretching elastic as you sew. 4. Pull elastic and tricot open to reveal ladder stitch. For an easy elastic application, use the Optional Elastic Foot (see page 68).

44

___________

_________

3 THREAD FLATLOCK TECHNIQUE FRINGE

Make this a quick and easy finish for a wool scarf or table runner.

Machine Setting: 3 Thread Flatlock Accessory Type: S Accessory Foot: Multi-Purpose Thread: regular cone thread or decorative Fabric Type: Woven medium (Loosely woven scarf weight fabric) Tension Settings: Left Needle (Yellow) Right Needle (Red) Upper Looper (Green) Lower Looper (Blue)
-0-1Removed -2-5-6-8-

Serge: 1. Use a water-soluble pen to mark the edge or hemline. Cut away excess fabric. Try to cut on the straight of grain for easy, even fringing. 2. Mark an additional line 1 from the edge or hemline. Fold along this line and press lightly with wrong sides together. 3. Align fabric with Multi-Purpose foot guide and serge along the fold, without cutting the fabric. 4. Work thread tail into stitching using a large eyed hand sewing needle. 5. Pull fabric open. 6. Starting at the raw edge, pull Out all of the horizontal threads, one at a time, up to the serged line to create fringe.

45

_________

__________

3 THREAD ROLLED EDGE

A rolled edge is normally used on soft fabrics, such as crepe de chine, georgette, silk and other lightweight materials. This technique cuts, folds and overlocks the edge to give a fine 1.5mm rolled edge. Machine Setting: 3 Thread Rolled Edge Accessory Type: S Stitch Finger: Position R Thread: regular cone thread Fabric Type: Woven light Tension Settings: Left Needle (Yellow) Right Needle (Red) Upper Looper (Green) Lower Looper (Blue) S Removed -3-N-6(thread narrow edge

Serge: 1. Sew along a single edge of lightweight woven fabric to create a beautiful rolled edge. Hint: If the top thread does not meet the needle thread on the under side, you need to tighten the lower looper tension slightly. If you have ioops on the top side of your fabric, or along the edge, you will need to tighten the upper looper tension slightly. Always test sew the stitch on a scrap of fabric first, make any needed adjustments, then begin sewing your project. Optional: Try using Wooly Nylon or Sulky rayon thread in the upper looper for a beautiful finish. You may need to reduce the upper looper tension slightly. Save these settings in one of your personal memories (see page 13).

46

__________

PICOT EDGE
This edge is perfect for chiffon, fine silk or other lightweight fabrics. It creates a designer finish for a scarf or bridal veil. Machine Setting: 3 Thread Rolled Edge Accessory Type: S Stitch Length: Override Sewing Advisor to 4.0-5.0 (see page 24 to override) Thread: regular cone thread, rayon, metaffic, or Wooly Nylon Fabric Type: Woven Light Tension Settings: Left Needle (Yellow) Right Needle (Red) Upper Looper (Green) Lower Looper (Blue) Removed -3-6-7-

Serge: 1. Serge picot edge along single edge of lightweight woven fabric. 2. The longer stitch length will create a picot or shell edge.
Hint: For a decorative effect, tr using lightweight novelty threads in the rolled edge or picot edge. The upper looper tension may need to be reduced depending on the fabric type and decorative thread used. Remember to experiment on a scrap of fabric first for the best results. Optional: Save picot edge specialty settings in one of the personal memories (page 13).

: zzzzEzz:

47

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SPAGHETTI STRAPS
Use this technique for narrow spaghetti straps, braided or twisted belts, belt loops, hangers for quilted wall hangings, etc. Machine Setting: 3 Thread Rolled Edge Accessory Type: S Fabric Type: Woven light Tension Settings: Left Needle (Yellow) Right Needle (Red) Upper Looper (Green) Lower Looper (Blue) Removed -3-5-

Serge: 1. Cut the spaghetti strap one inch wider than the desired width. 2. Serge a thread chain as long as the desired strap plus 5 inches. 3. Fold the spaghetti strap around the thread chain as if the chain were a hot dog in a bun. 4. Serge along the open side seam trimming away /2 of fabric. 5. Gently pull the chain to turn the strap right side out. Hint: If making many shorter pieces, such as belt loops, make one long tube, turn right side out, then cut apart.

48

_________

_________ _______

SLIT OR PLACKET
This technique can be used when sewing the plackets for the neckline of a blouse or for a cuff placket. It is similar to the inside corner technique (page 29), except using a rolled edge. Machine Setting: 3 Thread Rolled Edge Accessory Type: S Fabric Type: Woven medium or light Tension Settings: Left Needle (Yellow) Right Needle (Red) Upper Looper (Green) Lower Looper (Blue) Removed -3-N-5-6-

Serge: I. Cut a slit 3/4 of the way into the fabric. 2. Open the slit so the inside edges of the slit form a straight line. Note: There will be two small tucks at the bottom of the slit when it is pulled open. 3. Using the inside edge of the cutter as a guide, serge along the edge using the rolled edge. Hint: When you get to the middle of the slit (bottom of placket) you will find the fabric wants to form a V shape away from the cutter. Using your left hand, simply encourage the fabric to remain straight while serging.

49

_________ ________

_________________________

3 THREAT) ROLLED EDGE FISHLINE RUFFLES OR WIRE EDGES

The Specialty Technique Guide on your Huskylock makes it a snap to enhance any garment with ruffles, or to make a formal gown have a little more body around the bottom edge by rolling fishline into the rolled edge. Depending on the gauge of the fishuine, von can create ruffles which stand on their own (601b.), or just enough body to allow the fabric to curve gracefully away from the body (141b.). Add 22-28 gauge floral wire to the edge of ribbon or fabric strips to create your own wire ribbon, forming bows for crafts or home dec. projects. Machine Setting: 3 Thread Rolled Edge Accessory Type: S Fabric Type: For fishline: Woven light and fIshline For wire edges: Woven Medium and wire Tension Settings: Left Needle (Yellow) Right Needle (Red) Upper Looper (Green) Lower Looper (Blue) Removed -3-3-5-6-

Serge: 1. raise the presser foot and guide the fishline or wire through the Specialty Technique guides (see page 30), then through the back hole in the presser foot Qllus. 2). 2. Feed fishline or wire under foot and past needles. 3. Stitch 2-3 to catch the fishline or wire in the thread tail. 4. Insert the fabric under the presser foot and lower needle into the fabric. Lower the presser foot and sew along the edge of the fabric. 5. Raise presser foot and remove project. Clip thread tail and flshline or wire. On a garment, pull slightly along the fishline or wire after sewing, to create a more ruffled effect.
Thit:

Note: If using narrow braid or heavier cord, use front hole in foot (illus. 1) and set the Sewing Advisor for Three Thread Narrow. Follow the recommended settings.

50

___________ _________ _

ROLLED EDGE POKIES

When serging a rolled edge of lace or stiff fabric (linen and some cotton), the fabric threads may poke berween the stitches on the rolled edge. Try rolling over a water soluble stabilizer such as America Sews Dissolve-Away for a smoother finish. Cut the transparent stabilizer into 1 wide strips with your rotary cutter and mat. Machine Setting 3 thread rolled edge Accessory Type: S Fabric Woven medium (linen) Tension Settings Left Needle (Yellow) Right Needle (Red) Upper Looper (Green) Lower Looper (Blue)

Removed -3-6-

Serge 1. Position Dissolve-Away on top of the fabric to be rolled. 2. Roll the Dissolve-Away and fabric together through the Huskylock, trimming away 1/4 While serging. 3. Carefully tear away excess Dissolve-Away from rolled edge. Spray with water to remove any remaining Dissolve-Away. Hint. If you live in a very humid climate, try using America Sews Melt-Away. It is heavier than the Dissolve-Away and does not go limp with the humidity. After serging the edge, carefully tear away excess Melt-Away, then using a warm iron, melt any remainder which is showing. Hint: Another good way to handle pokies on some fabrics is to turn under one edge and roll along- the folded edge, being careful not to cut the fold of fabric. Trim away excess fabric with scissors when completed. Use Multi-Purpose foot for this (see page 33). Hint. Using a wider stitch width will also help prevent pokies, as more fabric is rolled into the edge eliminating the stiff edge.

51

__________ ___________ __________ ___________

3 THREAD ROLLED EDGE NOVELTY THREADS

For a decorative effect, try using novelty threads in the rolled edge. This includes Wooly nylon, metallic, silk, rayon thread, Perle cotton, 2-piy baby yarn, YLI Jeans Stitch, etc. Remember to experiment first for the correct tension setting and stitch length. Machine Setting 3 thread rolled edge Accessory Type: S Thread: Decorative Wooly Nylon (use in the upper looper) Hint: Use a needle threader to thread the wooly nylon through the eye of the looper. Tension Settings Left Needle (Yellow) Right Needle (Red) Upper Looper (Green) Lower Looper (Blue)

-3-5-Removed -2-5-6-8-

Metallic Thread (Use in the upper looper) Tension Settings Left Needle (Yellow) -3-5Right Needle (Red) Removed Upper Looper (Green) -2-5Lower Looper (Blue) -6-8Silk or rayon thread in Upper Looper. Tension Settings Left Needle (Yellow Removed Right Needle (Red) -3-5Upper Looper (Green) -2-5Lower Looper (Blue) -6-8Hint. You may wish to use a thread net to prevent the thread from slipping off the Spool. Remember, the heavier the thread, the lower the tension needs to be. Optional: Save specialty technique settings in memory (see page 13).

52

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PINTUCKS
Pintucks are beautiful additions to blouses or heirloom garments. Pintucks are designed to be sewn on lightweight fabrics in multiple rows to create an heirloom look. Machine Setting 3 thread rolled edge Accessory Type: S Fabric Woven light Tension Settings Left Needle (Yellow) Right Needle (Red) Upper Looper (Green) Lower Looper (Blue)
2-thread converter

Removed -3-6-

Serge 1. Mark a series of pintuck lines approximately 1 apart on fabric. 2. Fold fabric along pintuck lines with wrong sides together. 3. Using right edge of foot as a guide, stitch along fold. Do not cut fabric edge. Him. Use your Multipurpose foot to prevent cutting the edge of the folded fabric while serging. Try using decorative threads, such as Sulky rayon in the upper looper for a beautiful sheen to the pintuck.

53

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3 THREAD NARROW EDGE/SHELL EDGE

Overlocking the fabric with a finish about 2mm in width forms a narrow edge. This technique is used on lightweight or soft fabrics such as crepe de chin, silk, lightweight polyesters, etc. A shell edge can be sewn on scarf-like fabrics by tightening the lower looper tension. Due to the nature of these hems, they are unsuitable for use on stiff or heavy fabrics.

Machine Setting 3 thread narrow edge Accessory Type: S Stitch Finger: N for Narrow Edge R for Shell edge Fabric Silky Woven Tension Settings Left Needle (Yellow) Right Needle (Red) Upper Looper (Green) Lower Looper (Blue)

Removed -N-6-N-

Serge Serge along edge of fabric. 1. If using different types of thread, be sure to test on a scrap of fabric to adjust the tension and stitch length before sewing actual garment. Note: For shell edge, lengthen stitch length to 5 and serge along edge. (See page 24 to override Sewing Advisor for longer length.)

54

SECTION VI 2 THREAD SEWING TECHNIQUES

Two thread Huskylock techniques give you many additional sewing options, such as flatlock, a light overcast and rolled edge. 4 Machine Setting 2 thread wide or narrow overlock Accessory Type: S Snap down two-thread converter Threading for Two Thread Sewing
--

61.
4

1. Turn handwheel to bring upper looper to highest position. 2. Engage Converter: lower left end of converter lever on upper looper (as illustrated) placing the prong on the left end into the upper looper eye. 3. Thread left needle for wide two thread overcast or flatlock. Thread right needle for a narrow two thread overcast or rolled edge. 4. Thread lower looper only. To disengage two-thread converter, gently push the prong out of the eye in upper looper and raise.

Note: Some models may have removable 2-thread converter. Slide on and engage as shown below.
-

L1

%.-

55

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_________

TWO THREAD WIDE OR NARROW OVERLOCK

The two-thread overlock stitch gives a lightweight finish when less thread build-up is desired. Machine Setting Two thread wide or narrow overlock Accessory Type: S Engage two-thread converter (see page 55) Use left rear needle for Wide overlock Use right rear needle for Narrow overlock Fabric Woven light Tension Settings Left Needle (Yellow) OR Right Needle (Red) Upper Looper (Green) Lower Looper (Blue)

-0-1-0-1Not used -6-7-

Serge 1. Place fabric under the foot with the edge against the cutter. 2. Serge along the edge to finish. 3. The seam should be balanced along edge of fabric.
Note: In a two thread serged edge, the lower looper lies on top of the fabric and the

needle thread lies on the under side. To balance, if top thread is wrapped around to under side, tighten lower looper tension or loosen needle tension. If thread on under side is wrapped around to top side, loosen lower looper tension or tighten needle thread tension.

56

_____

_____ _

TWO THREAD FLATLOCK

Serge a two thread flatlock for decorative embellishments along a fold. Stitch, then pull the fold flat for a row of serging which resembles braided embellishmen t. Machine Setting 2 thread wide overlock Accessory Type: S Engage two-thread converter (see page 55)
Fabric Knit medium (Sweatshirt fleece) Tension Settings Left Needle (Yellow) Right Needle (Red) Upper Looper (Green) Lower Looper (Blue)

-0-1Removed Not used -5-7-

Serge 1. Snap on all-purpose foot. 2. Place fold of fabric to the right, next to guide of all-purpose foot, 3. Stitch along the fold of the fabric with the left needle catching the fold of the fabric and looping off the edge as you sew. The needle thread and lower looper thread should form a balanced tension along the edge. If the thread pulls to the underside, tighten your Lower Looper. If the thread pulls to the top side, loosen the lower looper. 4. Pull open and flat. 5. Adjust guide of presser foot for perfect edge.

OptionaL Save specialty thread settings in memory (see page 13)

bb

57

__________

_________

TWO THREAD ROLLED EDGE

Use the two-thread rolled edge with lightweight fabrics when you want the lightest rolled edge possible. Perfect for silky scarves. Machine Setting 2 thread rolled edge Accessory Type: S Engage two-thread converter (see page 55) Fabric Woven light Tension Settings Left Needle (Yellow) Right Needle (Red) Upper Looper (Green) Lower Looper (Blue)

Removed -NNot used -5-

Serge 1. Place single layer of fabric under the presser foot and serge along the edge. Him: Lengthen stitch length as desired for lighter look or picot edge.

58

___ ___ ____ ____

______

PED EDGE TWO THREAD NARROW WRAP

reversible, decorative edge using special Use the two thread narrow edge for a decorative types of thread. Machine Setting 2 thread narrow overlock Accessory Type: S d edge Stitch Finger: R for narrow 2 mm rolle N for wider 4mm flat edge. Engage two-thread converter (see page 55) Fabric Woven medium Tension Settings Left Needle (Yellow) Right Needle (Red) Upper Looper (Green) Lower Looper (Blue) -3Removed Not used -6-

Serge and serge along the edge. Place single layer of fabric under the presser foot the under side of fabric, giving an The decorative stitches should wrap around to of fabric. even decorative look on both top and bottom Crown rayon, YLI Jean Stitch or a OptionaL Use Sulky rayon thread, YLI Perle metallic thread for a beautiful decorative edge. ons as follows: For a balanced narrow two thread edge, set tensi Removed Left Needle (Yellow -2Right Needle (Red) Not used Upper Looper (Green) -7Lower Looper (Blue) nding on decorative thread used. Hint Tensions will need to be adjusted slightly, depe

59

_____ _____ _____ ____ _

5 THREAD OVERLOCK
The five thread overlock stitch consists of a chain stitch seam and 3 thread overlo ck stitch, a standard finish in readyto-wear. It is used for seams, especially in areas needing reinforcement, such as pant and underarm seams. This stitch is also ideal for loose weave hand woven fabrics to stabilize the seam and fabric, yet provide a wide overlock stitch to prevent raveling. Machine Setting 5 thread overlock Accessory Type: S Fabric Woven medium Woven heavy (denim) Tension Settings Left Front Needle (Yellow Left Rear Needle (Red) Upper Looper (Green) Lower Looper (Blue) Chain Looper (Purple)

-N-_________ -5-3-N-____________ -N-_________

Serge 1. Fold a piece of woven medium fabric in half and serge along folded edge, cutting fabric as you go. 2. Change Sewing Advisor to heavy woven and change the tension settings. Fold denim in half and serge a seam along folded edge. 3. The chain stitch locks and stabilizes the seam like a sewing machine seam, not allowing the fabric to stretch. Hints: 1. Use where you want to stabilize a seam. 2. Do not use where you need stretch, as in a T-shirt neckline.

60

SECTION VII
The following section will take you through all of the techniques using Accessory Type C. The chainstitch and coverstitch techniques do not use the cutter or upper looper. Follow the following steps to convert your Huskylock from an overlock scrger to a coverstitch serger: 1. Remove any threads from Huskylock. 2. Tap foot control to lower needles, then open front cover. Note: You will find it easier to convert and thread for coverstitch with the needles in the down position the entire time, until you thread the needles. 3. Push down and slide cover select lever from S to C to lock down upper looper.

4. Slide 5 standard cutter to left, then forward to remove. You will find it easier to thread with this area open. 5. Remove flatbed cover and free arm. Lower cutter (see page 6). 6. Remove rear needles C and D. 7. Slide stitch finger to R and turn cutting width dial to 7. 8. Remove presser foot and stitch plate S. Replace them with stitch plate and presser foot C. 9. Using needle inserter, insert Schmetz universal size 90 needle s in front left needle position A and front right needle position E. 10. Slide on free arm cover and flatbed cover. 11. Thread coverstitch looper (blue/peach), then right front needle (green) and left front needle (red). Raise needles to thread. 12. Attach cutter cover C. 13. Set tensions according to Sewing Advisor

61

COVERSTITCH WIDE
The 6mm coverstitch is the industry standard in ready-to-wear for hemming. Either side of this stitch can be used as the right side. Quite often you will see the ioop side of the stitch as the right side in ready-to-wear, being used as a decorative feature. The coverstitch works well for active wear and knits because of the elasticity of the stitch. Hemming, topstitching, decorative stitching and other finishes can be done nicely with the cover hem. Try decorative threads in the coverstitch looper for a decorative hem finish. Machine Setting Coverstitch wide Accessory Type: C See set up page 61 Fabric Type Knit medium (sweatshirt fleece) Tension Settings Left Front Needle A (Red) Right Front Needle E (Green) Coverstitch Looper (Blue/Peach)

-7-3-

Serge 1. Fold up a 2 hem on sweatshirt fleece. Place fabric under the presser foot to needles with folded edge to right. 2. Left needle should sew along raw edge of hem (on underside). 3. Sew cover hem. The right side will be the coverstitch and the under side the coverlock. Hint: Use the optional transparent coverstitch foot for better visibility (page 71). Or, try using the optional hemming foot which will guide your hem perfectly (page 76).

62

COVERSTITCH NARROW
The narrow 3mm coverstitch is ideal for lightweight knits such as jersey knits, swimwear, and lingerie fabric. It sews just like the 6mm coverstitch, with the coverstitch on the right side and the coverlock on the wrong side. Try using decorative threads in the coverstitch looper for a decorative hem finish or embellishment. Machine Setting Coverstitch narrow Accessory Type: C See set up page 61 Fabric Type Knit light (jersey knit or lycra) Tension Settings Center Front Needle B (Red) Right Front Needle F (Green) Coverstitch Looper (Blue/Peach)

-6-6-3-

Serge 1. Fold up 1 hem on knit fabric. Place fabric under foot to needles with folded edge to right. 2. Left needle should sew along raw edge of hem (on underside). 3. Sew cover hem. The right side will be the coverstitch and the wrong side the coverlock. Hint. Wooly nylon in the needles and cover looper will increase the elasticity and strength of the coverstitch. Ideal for swirn\vear. Hint: Use the oponal transparent coverstitch foot for better visibility (page 71). Or, try using the optional hemming foot which will guide your hem perfectly (page 76).

j
63

TRIPLE COVERSTITCH
The triple or tri-coverstitch is used for decorative hemming on t-shirts in ready-towear. Also used by designers for elastic waistband application on skirts. Use the coverstitch or coverlock side as the right side. Try decorative threads in the coverstitch looper for embellishment. Machine Setting Triple Coverstitch Accessory Type: C See set up page 61 Fabc Type Knit medium (sweatshirt fleece) Tension Settings Left Front Needle A (Yellow) Center Front Needle B (Red) Right Front Needle E (Green) Coverstitch Looper (Blue/Peach)

-6-

Serge 1. Fold up 2 hem on sweatshirt fleece. Place fabric under foot to needles with folded edge to right. 2. Left needle should sew along raw hem edge of underside. 3. Sew cover hem. The right side will be the cover stitch and the wrong side the coverlock. Hint. Use the optional transparent coversutch foot for better visibility. (see page 71). Or try the optional hemming foot which will guide your hem perfectly (page 76).

64

____________ ___________

2 THREAD DOUBLE CHAIN STITCH

The two thread double chain stitch sews a straight chain stitch that can be used to seam garments or for decorative embellishment. This stitch is often used for fitting because it can be removed easily, like a basting stitch.
Machine Setting Chains titch Accessory Type: (2 See set up page 61

Fabric Type Woven medium Qovcn heavy (denim)

Tension Settings Left Front Needle A (Yellow -5 Chain Looper (Purple/Peach) N Serge 1. Fold a piece of medium weight woven fabric in half and sew a chain stitch down the center of the fabric. \ou will see a straight stitch Ofl the top side and a double chain stitch on the under side. 2. Place a single layer of denim under the foot with the wrong side up. Sew, creating a circular pattern or rows of stitching.

decorative threads, such as YLI Jean Stitch or Pearl Crown Rayon in the looper for a heavier decorative look.
Hi,it: Use DouNe chain stitch

65

________H
CONVERSION FROM COVERSTITCH TO REGULAR SERGING
When you are finished with coverstitch or chainstitch techniques, follow the steps to convert back to regular serging, Type S. This includes 5 thread, 4 thread, 3 thread, and two thread overlock techniques. 1. Remove all threads. 2. Open front cover and remove C cutter cover by sliding toward left then puffing forward to remove. Replace with standard cutter cover S. 3. Using handwheel, raise needles to highest position. Remove presser foot C and front needles. 4. Remove flatbed cover and freearm. 5. Remove needle plate C and replace with needle plate 5. 6. Raise cutter to full upright position. 7. Slide cover lever from C position to 5 position to release upper looper.

8. Snap on standard foot S. 9. Slide on freearm and flatbed cover. 10. Use Sewing Advisor to set up for desired technique settings: cutting width, stitch finger position, needle positions, tensions and threading.

66

__________ _____ ___

SECTION VIII- OPTIONAL ACCESSORY FEET PIPING/CORDING FOOT

Part #141 000569 5.5mm Part #141 000597 3.0mm Your Huskylock has two optional piping feet. A 3mm for standard piping and a wider 5.5mm foot for larger decorator piping. Both feet have a groove on the underside of the foot for the piping to lay. The sewing technique is the same for both. The piping/cording foot speeds the making of piping and the insertion process. Machine Setting 4 thread overlock Accessory Type: S Accessory Foot: either Optional Piping Foot Fabric Type Woven medium Piping Tension Settings Left Needle (Yellow) Right Needle (Red) Upper Looper (Green) Lower Looper (Blue)

-N-N-N-

Serge 1. Snap on optional piping foot. 2. Cut square of fabric in half and sandwich piping between the two pieces of fabric (fabric right sides together). 3. Insert fabric pieces under the foot so the piping lays in the groove under the foot. 4. Serge piping into the seam. Purchase the optional piping feet from your local Husqvarna Viking dealer.

67

_____

ELASTIC/TAPING FOOT
Part #141 000595 The optional elastic foot will guide 1/4 to 3/8 elastic while stretching and attaching. The tension control screw allows infinite settings for desired amount of stretch. This foot works great for lingerie and can be used for taping seams with twill tape or narrow ribbon. Machine Setting: 4 thread Overlock Accessory Type: S Accessory Foot: Optional Elastic Foot Stitch Length: Override to 5.0 (see page 24) Fabric Type: Knit light 3/8 elastic Tension Settings: Left Needle (Yellow) Right Needle (Red) Upper Looper (Green) Lower Looper (Blue)

-N -N-

Serge: 1. Snap on optional elastic foot. 2. Loosen tension control screw on the elastic foot to open front of foot. Insert elastic into slot and under the foot, until it reaches needles. 3. Sew the elastic for one inch or more to be sure elastic is being caught. Tighten tension control screw to stretch elastic. 4. Insert the fabric under the foot and sew together with the elastic. Adjust tension control screw as needed for desired stretch. Right (clockwise) = tighter (more stretch) Left (counter clockwise) = looser (less stretch)

To use for taping, leave the tension control screw loose to allow the tape to guide through slot in foot. Great for stabilizing shoulder seams or guiding ribbon for
decorative techniques.

Purchase the optional elastic/taping foot from your Husqvarna Viking dealer.

68

_____ _____ _____ ___ _

________________________ __________________________

GATHERING FOOT
Part #141 000599 The gathering foot is also known as a shirring foot or separator foot. It is used for joining two layers of lightweight fabric, gathering one while attaching the other. It can also be used to gather a single layer only. Machine Setting: 4 thread Overlock Accessory Type: S Accessory Foot: Optional Gathering Foot Stitch Length: Override to 5.0 (see page 24) Differential Feed: Override to 2.5 (see page 34) Fabric Type: Woven Light (Two strips lightweight woven fabric) Tension Settings: Left Needle (Yellow) Right Needle (Red) Upper Looper (Green) Lower Looper (Blue) -8-8-N-N-

I-

Serge: 1. Snap on optional gathering foot. 2. Place the bottom layer of fabric (1) right side up between the needle plate and gathering foot. Place right edge of fabric against upper cutter. 3. Place the top layer of fabric (2) right side down in the opening of the gathering foot (3). 4. Lower the presser foot and sew, guiding the fabric against fabric guide (4). 5. Allow bottom fabric layer to feed freely for maximum gathering. Hint: Increase presser foot pressure for more gathers if desired. Note: These gathers are completely adjustable by simply sliding the ioops of thread on or off the fabric. Purchase the optional gathering foot from your local Husqvarna Viking dealer.

69

_________

PEARL FOOT
Part #141 000598 The pearl or beading foot smoothly guides 1/4 pearls (or smaller) through a channel along the right of the foot to be applied to the edge of garments or craft projects. You may also use this foot to apphi the pearls down the center of the fabric using a flatlock stitch. Machine Setting: 3thread wide overlock Accessory Type: S Accessory Foot: Optional Pearl Foot Stitch width: 7 Fabric Type: Woven Light 1/4 (4 mm) pearls Tension Settings: Left Needle (Yellow) Right Needle (Red) Upper Looper (Green) Lower Looper (Blue)

Pearl guide

-NRemoved -N-

Serge: 1. Snap on optional pearl foot. 2. Place pearls in channel on right side of foot. 3. Turn handwheel one or two rotations toward you to secure the pearls. 4. Slide fabric under foot and sew the pearls along the edge of fabric. Options: 1. Fold under edge of fabric. Slide under foot and up against fabric guide. Sew along edge of fabric without cutting the fabric. 2. Sew down the center of fabric using the flatlock set-up (page 42 or 57). 3. Sew along edge with rolled edge settings (page 46 or 58), using left needle. Sequins: Threaded sequins can be applied using the same settings as the pearl application. Purchase the optional pearl foot from your local Husqvama Viking dealer.

70

TRANSPARENT COVERSTITCH FOOT

Part #411 000098 The Optional transparent foot is designed for coverstitch sewing. It allows you to see the stitch as you sew, making it easier to guide for decorative techniques. Use it anytime the Sewing Advisor on your Huskylock recommends Use Accessory Type C,,.

Note: Increase the presser foot pressure to a higher number when using this foot for best results. Purchase the optional transparent coverstitch foot from your local Husqvarna Viking dealer.

71

Cover Stitch Cording

Use the Optional Piping/Cording Foot with Cord Guide to sew 3mm cover stitch over cording. Perfect for window treatments when a slurred look is desired. Simply sew over cording or elastic cord then pull from both ends to sbirr. Machine Setting: Cover Stitch Narrow Accessory Type: C Fabric Type: Woven Medium Cording or elastic cord Tension Settings: Center front needle B (Red) Right front needle E (Green) Coverstitch looper (Blue/Peach)

-6-6-3-

Serge: 1. Snap on optional piping/cording foot and cord guide. 2. Slide cord through cord guide. Hint: Using dental floss threader, slide loop through tunnel in cord guide. Put end of cord into ioop and draw back through tunnel in cord guide, then under foot. 3. Lay fabric on top of cord and sew over the top of the cord. Hint: For a decorative, raised seam look, use small cording and stitch randomly on your garment, or draw lines on your fabric and follow the lines. Gathering or Shirring: 1. To gather or shirr your fabric over the cord, use round elastic cord instead of the
cording.

2, Sew over elastic cord, the same as for cording (above). 3. Anchor one end of your cording and pull on the other end to draw up the gathers.

Purchase the optional Huskylock Coversthch Kit, which includes this foot from your local Husqvarna Viking dealer.

72

__________________________________________

Chainstitch Piping
Use the chainstitch on your Huskvlock, along with the Optional Cover Stitch Piping Foot, for quick perfect piping ever time. Whether you create your own piping or purchase packaged piping, you will enjoy creating designer looks on your garments or home dec. projects.

Machine Setting: Chainstitch Accessory Ty e: C Fabric Type: Woven Medium (two pieces, each 3 x 6) Purchased piping Tension Settings: Use Right front needle E (Yellow) -6Coverstitch Looper (Purple/Peach) -3Serge: 1. Snap on Optional Cover Stitch Piping Foot. 2. Sandwich piping between two pieces of fabric with raw edges even. 3. Slide fabric with piping under foot, being sure piping is under groove of foot. 4. Lower presser foot and sew seam.

\\rnn side

Hiiit: Hold piping behind foot when beginning to sew to be sure fabric and piping
sew together. Shirred Piping: To shirr fabric, creating a heavier, decorator look to your fabric, secure one end of cording and pull other end, shirring fabric over cord. Adjust gathers in shirred piping, then place between two layers of fabric and sew as above.

from your

Purchase the optional Huskylock Coverstitch Kit, which includes this local Viking dealer.
Husqvarna

foot

73

___

Cover Stitch Bias Tape Folder Foot

Use the Optional Cover Stitch Bias Tape Folder Foot to fold and attach all in one quick, easy step. Use this foot to cover seams with bias tape for reversible garments or make belt loops for garments or to hang a quilt or walihanging.
Machine Setting: Coverstitch wide Accessory Type: C

Fabric Type: oven 7 \X Medium I wide strip of bias cut fabric

Tension Settings: Left front needle A (Red) -6Right front needle E (Green) -7Coverstitch Looper (Purple/Peach) -3Serge: 1. Snap on optional Bias Tape Folder Foot and insert tape into tape guide.

-----...

---

Hint. Cut end of bias tape into point to make it easier to insert. Use your tweezers in slot on top of foot to slide bias tape into folder and up to needles. 2. Lower presser foot and sew on bias tape only for an inch or two. 3. For belt ioops, continue to sew strip of bias tape, then cut into desired lengths for belt ioops. 4. To sew onto fabric, slide fabric under bias tape, up to needles and sew. This foot is ideal for covering seams with decorative fabric bias strips to add a designer touch to a garment or for placemats. Purchase the optional Huskylock Coverstitch Kit, which includes this foot from your local Husqvama Viking dealer.

74

Cover Stitch Bias Tape Binding Foot

Use the Optional Cover Stitch Bias Tape Binding Foot to finish edges in one step with the Cover Stitch Wide or Chainstitch. Perfect for finishing the edges of garments, placemats and other home dec. projects. Machine Setting: Coverstitch wide or Tn-cover stitch Accessory Type: C Fabric Type: Woven Medium Packaged extra wide double fold bias tape Tension Settings: Left front needle A (Red) -6Right front needle U (Green) 7Coverstitch Looper (Purple/Peach) -3Serge: 1. Snap on optional Bias Tape Binding Foot 2. Insert the bias tape into tape guide on foot. 3. Slide bias tape up to needles. 4. Lower presser foot and sew into bias tape an inch or two to catch the bias tape. 5. Raise foot and slide fabric into groove of foot to the right edge of the foot. 6. Lower foot and sew bias tape onto edge of fabric. Him: If single stitch is desired instead of 6mm cover stitch, use left or center needle chainstitch, depending on the desired look.

Th

Purchase the optional Huskylock Coverstitch Kit, which includes this foot from your local Husqvarna Viking dealer.

75

Cover Stitch Hemming Foot

Use the Optional Cover Stitch Hemming Foot for even hems on your garments or home dcc projects. Simply press your hem allowance then let the foot and your Huskvlock do the work for you. Machine Setting: Coverstitch wide Accessory Type: C Fabric Type: Woven Medium or Knit Medium Tension Settings: Left front needle A (Red) -6Right front needle E (Green) -7Coverstitch Looper (Purple/Peach) -3Serge: 1. Snap on optional Coverstitch Hemming Foot. 2. Measure and press a 1 hem along one edge of your fabric. 3. Slide fabric into slot in front of foot with the turned under hem facing down. 4. Lower presser foot and sew hem, having left needle along cut or raw edge of hem. Hint: For a designer or better ready-to-wear look, use the triple cover stitch. The cover hem is ideal for both knits and woven fabric, as the cut edge on the underside will be covered by the cover stitch.

Purchase the optional HusAylock Coverstitch Kit, which includes this foot from your local Husqvarna Viking dealer.

76

SECTION IX SPECIAL HINTS

Puckered Fabric: 1. Check to be sure that the stitch finger is in the N normal position. 2. Make sure the stitch width is set correctly for the weight of the fabric you are working with. 3. Make sure the tensions are set correctly. You may find the looper tensions or the needle tensions are too tight. 4. Try overriding the differential feet to 0.5 (page 34). Skipped Stitches: I. Improper needle type. Be sure to use a Schmetz brand needle(s). Do not use Singer needles. Your Huskylock is timed to use only Schmetz brand needles. 2. Machine may be improperly threaded. Re-thread and check all threading points. Often times it looks right, but something hidden may be threaded incorrectly. 3. Needle(s) may be dull or bent insert new needle(s). 4. Heavier fabric requires larger size needles. 5. Increase presser foot pressure.

Stitches Show Through on the right Side of Seam: 1. Needle tension is too loose. Increase the tension one number at a time and test. 2. Machine is threaded while tension is engaged. Be sure to raise presser foot to disengage tension and pull thread into tension discs. 3. Needle is dull or burred causing a poor quality stitch. Insert new needles. 4. Thread is not in thread guides or has slipped out. Check threading. Thread Continues to Break: 1. The number one cause of thread breakage is incorrect threading. Make sure the looper take up lever is threaded correctly and all of the thread guides used are with the correct color symbol. 2. Tension is too tight reduce the tension slightly on the corresponding looper or needle that is breaking thread. 3. Needle is dull, bent, burred change needle after completion of each garment or large project. 4. Thread is caught on the spooi or is wrapped around the spool pin use spool caps to help support the thread as it is being released. 5. Improper threading sequence if a looper thread breaks, needle thread must be removed from the eye of the needle before re-threading the looper. 6. Old brittle thread or rough and eneven thread could cause breakage. 7. Check to make sure the thread stand is completely extended. Because of the speed of the Huskylock, if the stand is not completely extended, thread breaka ge can occur.

77

Threads Looping off the Edge of the Fabric: 1. Slide stitch finger forward one or two markings to allow loops to lay along edge of lightweight fabric. 2. Looper tensions may be too loose increase both looper tensions. 3. Check to be sure that the thread is lying inside the tension discs. Be sure and raise presser foot to release thread tensions while threading. 4. Thread has slipped out of a thread guide re-check all threading points. 5. Cutter is cutting off too much fabric. Increase cutting width to a larger number (wider width). Explanation: UZhy aoes ibis happen? On some fabrics, such as T-shirt knits or other fine knits, the moving cutter (upper cutter) is drawing or stretching the knit as it is being cut. When it springs back to its normal shape, loops form along the outer edge.

Adjusting Tensions: 1. An easy association to remember when adjusting tensions is the upper looper lies on the top side of the fabric and the lower looper lies on the under side of the fabric. The needle is the straight stitch. Note: Whenever you have a tension problem there will be at least two threads interacting. Because of this, you will always have two choices: Increas e one thread tension or decrease the other thread tension, but not both at the same time. Continue in this manner until a balanced tension has been reached. 2. You have just re-threaded your Huskylock. The tension before re-threading was beautiful but after re-threading one of the looper tensions is unbala nced. Attempting to adjust by tightening the tension dials does not work. When you pull on the thread coming out of the tension dials, there doesn t seem to be any tension on the thread. Explanation: When re-threading your Huskylock, always raise your presser foot to release the tensions automatically and allow the thread to seat itself between the tension discs. If the thread is not seated properly in the tension discs, the tensions will not adjust correctly or, the thread may pop out of the tension discs. Machine is Jamming: 1. Fabric is being inserted behind the cutter. Since the cutter is in front of the needles, it must be able to trim the fabric before it is carried through to the needle. 2. Thread is being caught under the presser foot. At the completion of each seam, let the Huskylock run so a tail is left behind the presser foot, or release tensions by raising presser foot and pull out a tail of threads. 3. Presser foot pressure is too light. Adjust this with the pressure release lever on the left side of your Huskylock.

78

INDEX
Accessory Box .6 Adjustable Cutting Width 25-26 Adjustable Presser Foot Pressure.. .5 Adjustable Stitch Length 24 Adjustable Thread Tensions 20-21, 73
.

Basic Sewing Techniques Bias Binder Bias Tape Folder Blind Hem Braid Built-Tn Thread Cutter

22 75 74 33 41 3

Casings 32 Changing Needles 9 Changing Presser Feet 5 Changing Stitch Length 24 Changing Stitch (cutting) Width 2526 Cleaning 7 Corded Overlock 30 Corners: Tnside 29 Outside 28 Cover Stitch 62 Chainstitch 65 Hem 76 Narrow (3mm) 63 Set-Up 61 Triple (tn) 64 rjde (6mm) 62 Cutters 6 Disengaging 6 Cutting Width 25-26 Decorative Thread Edging Differential Feed Elastic Applications 40-52 34-36 44

Fabric Chart Fine Tune Stitch Width Fishiine Ruffles Five Thread Overlock Flatlock Sewing: Fringe Lace Lingerie Elastic Three Thread Two Thread Foot Control Four Thread Overlock Freearm Fringe Front Cover Gathering Gathering Foot Handwheel Hem: Blindhem Casing Hem Rolled Hem Hemming Foot Huskylock Parts Inside Corners Jamming

10 5 50 60 45 43 44 42 57 4 23 7 45 4 37 69 5 33 32 46,58 76 3 29 73 36 43 42 24 35 4 16-17

Knit Fabrics
Lace Application Ladder Stitch Length, Stitch Lighweight Fabrics Lightswitch Loopers, Threading

Elastic/Taping Foot

68

Maintenance 4 Memory 13 Storing, Retreating,Deleting. 13 79

Multipurpose Foot Narrow Overlock Needle Chart Needle Insertion Needle Positions Needle Selection Needle Replacement Needle Threading Oiling Optional Accessory Feet Outside Corners Overlock, 2-thread

.3 38,56 10 9 9 10 9 18 7 67-71 28 56 Safelock 39 Securing Ends 27 Set-Up Coverstitch to Overlock 66 Overlock to Coverstitch 61 Sewing Advisor 11-13 Sewing Speed 6 Shirring Foot 69 Skipped Stitches 72 Slit 49 Spaghetti Straps 48 Special Hints 72, 73 Specialty Thread 30, 40, 52 Spool Caps 14 Stitch Finger Lever 5 Stitch Length 24 Stitch Plate 3, 61 Stitch Width 5, 25, 26 Telescopic Thread Stand 6, 15 Tensions 20, 21 Adjusting 21,73 Testing Stitch 19 Thread Breakage 72 Thread Cutter 3 Thread Nets 14 Thread Selection 8, 10 Threading Changing Threads 61, 66 Four Thread 16, 18 Lower Looper 17 Needles 18 Preparation 14, 15 Upper Looper 16 Three Thread Overlock 38 Decorative Braids 41 Decorative Edges 40 Edge Finish 38 Fishline/Ruffles 50 Flatlock Seam 42 Flatlock Lace 43 Flatlock Lingerie Elastic 44 Flatlock Fringe 45 NarrowEdge 38,54 80

Pearl/Sequin Foot 67-68 Picot Edge 47 Piping Foot 67,73 Pintucks 53 Plackets 49 Power 4 Presser Foot: Changing 5 Lift 4 Pressure 5 Presser Feet Bias Binder 75 Bias Tape Folder 74 Blindhem 33 Elastic 68 Gathering/Shirring 69 Hemmer Multipurpose 33 Pearl 70 Piping (4 thread) 67 Piping (coverstitch) 73 Transparent Coverstitch 71 Puckering 35,72 Ribbing Rolled Edge: Novelty Threads Pokies Three Thread Two Thread 31 52 51 46 58

Picot Edge Pintucks Rolled Edge Safelock Shell Edge Slit/Placket Spaghetti Straps Wire Edges Trim Catcher Troubleshooting Two Thread Overlock Flatlock Narrow Edge

.47 53 46 39 54 49 48 50 71 72-73 55 57 56

Rolled Edge Wide Overlock Wrapped Edge Waste Tray Width, Stitch (cutting) Wire Edges Wrapped Edge

58 56 59 71 25-26 50 59

81

FIVE-THREAD OVERLOOK STITCH

Husqvarna
c

936 FOUR-THREAD OVERLOCK ST ITCH

Huskyock

@D

THREE-THREAD OVERLOCK ST ITCH

INPORTANT: Lighty tighten unused screws so that they do not interfere with needle thread path.

TWO-THREAD OVERLOCK ST ITCH

_________ ______

________________________

COVER STITCH

(Triple)

COVER STITCH

(Wide)
III

4:;

I I,-IJ==Ij

HtIii

r\ce

-t

C -4---- S

COVER STITCH

.
(Narrow) DOUBLE CHAIN STITCH

17 ,:i

If1,
C

IC4ISJ

21 54009-129