INNERWEAR MARKET IN INDIA- MARKETERS AND CONSUMERS PERSPECTIVE

Jyoti Aggarwa (lecturer)l and Dr. Charu Gupta(Reader) Department of Textiles and Clothing Institute of Home Economics, University of Delhi, India E-mail- jyotiagg123@hotmail.com

ABSTRACT The innerwear market in India is currently valued at Rs. 5160 crore in value terms and 80.16 crore units in volume terms The Indian lingerie industry is poised for a great leap ahead due to the growing domestic demand coupled with huge export potential. There are more than 1000 Indian brands present, but only 200 are active nation wide. The remaining cater to markets in the vicinity of their manufacture. The Last decade has witnessed inflow of many multinational brands in the Indian innerwear market. Many foreign companies have already set up or are in the process of setting up their manufacturing units in India in collaboration with local players. Indias vast resources, skilled manpower and infrastructure attracts a lot of foreign investment in the field of innerwear. This paper brings to light the product offerings of Indian manufacturers and their comparison with multinational brands. Leading brands present in Indian lingerie market have been studied under the heads of year of establishment, retail presence, styles of products offered, price range and the best selling categories. The data has been gathered by personal interviews of twenty lingerie manufacturers. Two hundred Indian consumers have also been surveyed to collect information regarding popularity of brands and consumer preferences. Analysis of data brings out comparison of the product mix of Indian and multinational brands. It also highlights consumer preferences and gaps to be filled between demand and supply. The paper would benefit that segment of the industry that plan to set up their business in India, in terms of market segmentation and consumer preferences.

INTRODUCTION Many multinational manufacturers offering multitude of products consider India as a destination market. Potential of this huge market is reflected through the demographic picture (as of July 2003 estimates): 1.059 billion population 319 million females between 15-64 years 30 percent of 95 million of that are considered middle class with enough disposable income to be defined as real consumers.
Indian Apparel Market Growth in 2004 over 2003
16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0 13.62 11.91 9.67 5.21 3.46 3.56 5.72 4.09 12.03 13.91

% Growth

Men Apparel

Women Apparel

Kids Apparel

Total Apparel

Total Innerw ear

Value2004 Volume2004

(Figure: 1), Source: Images Business of Fashion, August 2005, Vol.VI No. VIII Analysing the growth of Indian apparel market, brings out the fact that innerwear segment is growing at a much faster rate than the other segments (Fig.1). The innerwear market in the country for the year 2004 is valued at Rs. 5,160 crore in value terms, registering a growth rate of 13.91% over 2003, when it stood at Rs. 4,530 crore. The volume appreciated about 5.72% at 80.16 crore units in 2004 as compared to about 75.82 crore units sold in 2003. On the overall basis, volume as well as value growth in the innerwear market was marginally higher in 2004 as compared to 2003. However, the
Innerwear Market Growth In India
18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2 0 16.81 13.82 9.38 9.14 7.13 4.2 5.64 7.19 4.25 5.72 16.91 13.91

% Growth

Value 2003

Value 2004

Volum 2003 e

Volum 2004 e

Undergarments

Lingerie

Total Innerwear

(Figure: 2), Source: Images Business of Fashion, August 2005, Vol.VI No. VIII

value growth in both mens undergarments and womens lingerie segments was more than double the growth in volumes. The growth in volume was 7% while value went up by nearly 17% (Fig.: 2). Market Players The innerwear market is flooded with the best of Indian as well as international brands. The inside story got its first stylish boost when Associated Apparels Pvt. Ltd. makers of Liberty shirts, launched the world famous Maiden Form bras, Jockey mens underwear and swimwear in 1962 in India. The brands were an instant success with their style and quality. Because of the change in government policies the company gave the overseas tieup and changed the names to Libertina for lingerie and Liberty for mens underwear in the late 70s. With the success of Libertina and Liberty other Indian companies moved into lingerie bandwagon. Peter Pan from Dawn Mills in the 70s entered the market. The brand was one of the favorites with the Indian women, but two decades later it vanished from the market. VIP a major player in mens segment launched Petals, a lycra moulded cup bra with motifs, which was considered ahead of its time and was discontinued. But its Lovable launch in 1996 proved a success when they brought in a foreign brand but made in India. Lovable was followed by Feelings, a domestic offering of VIP along with Daisy Dee. Vanity Fair was launched in 2004 and finally a Korean brand Try for men and women in 2004. Another big brand in the lingerie market is Rupa & Co. started in 1985. Its range of mens, womens and childrens underwear makes it Indias largest manufacturer and seller of innerwear. Other brands that are making their presence felt in the Indian innerwear market are Amul, Lux Cozi and Dollar catering to a particular segment of mens innerwear market while the lingerie segment has its own local brands like Neva, Bodycare, Softy, Lady Care, Little Lacy, Red Rose, Sonari and many more. Trickle of foreign brands started in 90s with the advent of Jockey re-entering the Indian market followed by Calida and liberty Blu. Then the very high fashion Gossard came for a limited period. The entry of the Marks and Spencer chain stores created a stir. Another big entry was Triumph. Enamor, another foreign brand entered through Gokaldas Exports and very chic French brand Aubade opened its only outlet in Mumbai. LaSenza and Hanes are other brand in the scene. Though innerwear includes garments for men, women and kids , its the women segment called lingerie, that draws the maximum attention. Lingerie is considered an important value added segment. The range of items available as innerwear is enormous. But for an average Indian woman innerwear is limited to just a couple of items, mainly bras and panties. Out of these two, also brassiere is more complex an item to ensure the comfort and fit. A number of styles are available in this basic garment like full cup, push up, sports, strapless and under wired bras. In India, brassieres are constructed using 100 percent cotton fabrics, either knitted or woven. Sometimes, 3-10 percent Lycra is also added to get stretch effect and to provide a better fit. Panties are generally made of 100% cotton sinkers, ribs and interlock fabrics. Polyester - cotton jacquard knits are mainly used for achieving comfort and aesthetics. Other components include range of elastics for

different areas of the garment, underwires for support, eye hooks and ring fastners. Laces are also used extensively, with both knit and woven fabrics. Linings are used in the cup area for support and strength, while pipings are used at the cup and side seems to give fullness and strength. As inner wear comes in direct contact with the skin, primary requirement for users is comfort, followed by elegance. There is a need for a good combination of technology and quality components as raw materials, to succeed in producing a standard product. Export Scenario Despite the domestic growth, the roughly $ 400-million Indian industry contributes a small percentage to the global lingerie, hosiery and innerwear market. India gets only a small share of the export manufacturing pie. However the situation has improved in the last decade. Leading buyers are planning to start sourcing from India in the near future. The Bagalore based Gokaldas Images is one of the oldest manufacturer that has tied up with Sara Lee Courtaulds for manufacturing foundation garments. MAS Holdings Sri Lanka has set up a 50:50 joint venture arrangement called Intimate Clothing Private Ltd. in Bagalore to produce Lingerie. The unit is a 100% export oriented unit. Leading international buyers like V F Corporation, selling under the brand name Vanity Fair also plans to start sourcing from India in coming times. Triumph International, the German company selling foundation wear in India plans to set up its own manufacturing unit in Chennai within a year for both export to Europe and selling in the Indian market. At present Triumph is a one third partner in Intimate Fashion India Private Ltd., Chennai, a manufacturing unit also supplying to Victorias Secret, U.S. Primero Intimates, a newly launched venture of premier Group in Coimbatore is supplying fashion lingerie to high-end brands in Europe. Other leading buyers are Jockey International, Warnaco, Eveden, Shirley of Hollywood, Victorias Secret, Etam Way, La Serza, Harrogate Lingerie and swimwear, La Perla with Black Label brand, Wacoal, Palmers and Panache lingerie to name a few. Celebrity brands like Jennifer Lopez and Pamela Anderson are also sourcing from India. RATIONALE OF THE STUDY This work has been undertaken to study the innerwear market in India. An in-depth information has been gathered regarding its size, current scenario, prevalent practices and potential with special reference to lingerie segment. Efforts have also been made to collect first hand data from the leading innerwear manufacturers to study their product offerings. Indian consumers have also been studied to gather information about their preferences. METHODOLOGY Secondary data regarding the structure of Indian lingerie industry has been collected from various magazines, journals, Newspaper articles, Internet sites etc. Primary data has been obtained from manufacturers and consumers of lingerie in India. Sample Selection: - leading manufacturers of innerwear had been contacted to gather information about the product line offered by them in terms of style, designs, fit, colours,

etc. Out of the total of twenty manufacturers surveyed, six manufacturers based at Delhi were contacted at their offices. Manufacturers having their units outside Delhi, mainly in Mumbai, Tirupur and Bangalore were contacted at annual lingerie fair, Bodywear. The sample of consumers comprises women from high or upper middle class socioeconomic strata, as the group is better informed. 200 consumers were surveyed to gather information regarding their preferences for lingerie. Consumers were contacted mainly at lingerie outlets to study their complete buying process. Leading lingerie stores of Delhi were selected for this purpose. Composite manufacturing units situated in and around Delhi have also been surveyed to study the raw materials used, manufacturing procedures, assembly line operations and the quality control systems followed. Tools for Data Collection: - Data has been collected through questionnaire and observation techniques. Separate questionnaires have been formulated for manufacturers and consumers. The questionnaires have been personally administered to the respondents in order to clarify doubts if any. Observations have been made simultaneously to collect intricate details. RESULTS AND DISCUSSION Innerwear today has achieved new dimensions. An unending list of brands present in the Indian lingerie market is the proof of the great potential of the market in India. The strong Indian middle class is still growing and attracts even the foreign lingerie manufacturers to latch on the Indian bandwagon. Women in developed nations have less and less time to shop, so the industry is spending more time looking for new markets such as China and India. Where women have more time on their hands as well as growing disposable income. In the present scenario it is important to analyse the innerwear market in India. SWOT ANALYSIS Strengths A market with large hidden strength. Current growth rate of 14%. Industry with never declining demand. Also the class of its consumers will always grow with the growing population and specific consumer preferences and awareness. Product has unsubstitutable demand. Weaknesses A large segment of the market is in the unorganized sector. Lack of awareness in society. Low degree of brand loyalty. High degree of price-sensitiveness. Poor perception of quality of Indian lingerie.

Opportunities Changing perceptions about the product from a marginal item of clothing it is now slowly being perceived as a part of ones wardrobe. Projected future growth rate of about 15% for the Rs. 1,500 crore industry. Explosion potential for the unorganiz sector to grow by making inroads into the share of the unorganized sector. The impact of better educating advertisements are making the consumers, look at factors like comfort, quality and brand name and not only price.

Threats More and more players entering the market competing severely with each other but sharing the same small pie instead of battling against the unorgainsed sector. The future of the Indian lingerie industry is not very grim. The Indian consumer is gradually opening up. Factors like quality of the material, durability are also given due importance now a days by the customers. The customers are becoming more and more selective and specific about their requirements. A certain amount of openness has been exhibited by the customers. As the consumer awareness is increasing, buying practices are changing dramatically forcing the manufactures to gear up and improve their product to compete in the Indian innerwear market. Survey done for innerwear manufactures and consumers has highlighted some very interesting points, summarized here. Survey of Innerwear Manufacturers Twenty lingerie manufacturers based in various parts of India were contacted to collect information regarding the products offered by them. Information regarding lingerie was collected in detail and following results were obtained: Price Range:- Price range of the products offered by various manufacturers varies from Rs. 50- Rs.1000 depending on the fabric used, style and also brand equity. Basic styles are sold at a lower price as compared to the fancy styles. Development of Styles:- For development of new styles of bras generally latest fabric and lace designs are used as inspiration. The designers develop designs in accordance of latest fabrics. Many a times owners of the firm themselves act as designers and develop new design from their experience. A team of experts scrutinizes various designs thus made. Samples of selected designs are developed thereafter. The samples are evaluated by trials on dummies and very rarely on human models. After the trials required changes are made in the original designs and finally the product is produced on mass scale. Final designs are generally 10% of the original line in number. Product Categorization: - It was noted that none of the manufacturers is offering special product line for different age groups. Generally fancy and low cut designs are constructed in smaller sizes, meant for teenagers. Designs with fuller cups are constructed in bigger

sizes meant for older women. Very few manufacturers offer fancy and comfortable styles for women with bigger sizes. No specific product is offered even for varying seasons. Value Addition: - No special finishing is given to the fabric used or the final product before marketing. Finishes meant for innerwear like antibacterial and perfume finish etc. are also not used on an average as it increases the cost and also lack demand. Very few brands use these special finishes for premium range. Research and Development: - It was found during the course of study that there is no direct system of consumer feedback followed by manufacturers to improve upon their product. 90% of manufacturers depend upon the comments of retailers to work upon their future product range (Fig.:3).

Customer Feedback
No Such System 10% Surveys 0%

Through Retailors 90%

Figure: 3 Styles Of Brassieres: - Full cup bra is the most popular style offered by most of the manufacturers. Strapless and Padded bras are second in popularity offered by 80% of manufacturers each. Only 50% of manufacturers are making under wired bras while sports bra (vest, not technically a sports bra) used by beginners or at the time of exercising are offered by 55% of manufacturers (Fig.: 4). Sizes offered: - Brassieres are available in the sizes ranging from 28-46 inches. But majority of products are offered in the size range of 30-38 inches. Very few sizes are offered in extreme sizes. It also emerged out of the survey that only 30% of the manufacturers are offering their products in various cup sizes i.e. A, B, C, D. Majority of them i.e.70% are offering their products only in one cup size, generally B. For the product to fit well on the body it is very important to make various cup sizes available.

S le O re ty s ffe d
10 0 9 0 8 0 7 0 6 0
%

95

8 0

80

55 5 0

5 0 4 0 3 0 2 0 1 0 0 R g la F ll eu r u Cp u S orts B p ra S eam ss le B ra S p ss tra le B ra

3 5

15

P d ed B ad ra

P sh U B u p ra

U d rw d n e ire B ra

Figure: 4 Colour Range Offered: - White colour is found to be an important part of the product basket of manufacturers, offered by all the respondents. 90% of manufacturers offer Black bras while Beige colour in bras is offered by 75% of manufacturers. Lingerie manufacturers offering more of bra-panty sets use colours like Plum, Pink, Peach, Grey, etc (Fig.: 5).
Colours Offered
120 100 90 80 %age 75

100

60

40

35

30

20

White

Black

Beige

Pink

Peach

Figure: 5

Raw Materials Used Fabric: - Pure cotton is used by 90% of manufacturers to construct bras. The cotton fabric used is mainly knitted fabric. Woven cotton fabrics generally used are voile and terycot. Poplin and cambric is used to line the main fabric. After pure cotton, cotton lycra is most sought after fabric used by 80% of manufacturers. Lace lycra used by 65% of manufacturers finds its use in fancy designs (Fig.: 6).
Fabrics U sed
100 90 80 70 60
%

90 80

65 60

50 40 30 20 10 0 0 40

C otton

C otton Lycra

Lace Lycra

C otton Lace

S atin

S ilk

Figure: 6 Trims and Accessories: - When enquired about various accessories used for construction of bras it was found that all the manufacturers are offering their products with narrow elastic bands as shoulder straps. 60% manufacturers offer string straps and only 25% of them are offering transparent straps for support at shoulder (Fig.: 7). For back strap elastic band with double hook is used most widely as offered by all the manufacturers, while narrow elastic band with single hook is offered by only half of them. Front opening is generally provided in lactation bras and very rarely otherwise. Edges of the bras are finished with ordinary cotton bindings and elastic is used to provide a snug fit. Only one or two manufacturers are using latest technology mobilon tapes to finish edges and provide good fit at the same time. Plastic, as well as metallic ring adjusters and sliders are used in the industry (Fig.: 8). Thus it has been seen that lot of work needs to be done in the direction of improving product quality so that consumers can get value for the money paid. Efforts should also be made to tap the different segments of market with product differentiation. But at the same time it is also very important to educate the consumer so that she can specify her requirements and demand a quality product that is worth its price. Survey done on consumers has helped to understand the consumer psyche and her awareness level.

Variety Of Shoulder Straps Offered

120 100

100

80 60

60

40

40 30 25

20

20

Narrow elastic band

String Straps

Broad Elastic Band

Broad Fabric Band

Transparent Straps

Narrow fabric band

Figure: 7

120 100

Fasteners Available

100

80

60

50

45

40 25 20 20 10

Elastic Band Narrow with Double Elastic Band Hook with Single Hook

Front Opening

Narrow Fabric Band Narrow Elastic Band with double fabric Band with S Hook Hook with Single Hook

Figure: 8

Survey of Consumers 340 women in the age group of 25-40 years were surveyed to collect information regarding the likings and buying practices of consumers. Out of the total of 340 women surveyed information collected from 200 respondents was finally analyzed. Questionnaires that were either incomplete or did not provide relevant information were discarded. All the 200 respondents were educated having professional qualifications. Respondents belonged to upper middle class or high-income group. The information gathered has been summarized as follows: General Information: - The respondents finally selected were women in the age group of 25-40 years, they were married and had kids. It was found that out of the total of 200 respondents 96 fall in the category of age from 35-40 years, while there were only 26 respondents who were less than 30 years in age. Survey of the consumers reveals that social norms and good feel factor are the main reasons for wearing bras. It was found that 42% of the respondents feel that they wear innerwear for modesty while other 46% feel that wearing quality innerwear gives them a good feeling (Fig.: 9).

Role of Inner Wear

100 90 80 84 92

No. of Respondents

70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 0 48

modesty

confidence

good feel

not important

Figure: 9 When asked, weather innerwear also follows fashion changes as outerwear, most of the respondents felt positive about it. 44% of the respondents surely felt that innerwear does follow fashion swings while 48% felt that to be true to some extent (Fig.: 10).

Does Innerwear Follow Fashion Changes

To Some Extent 48%

Yes 44%

No 8%

Figure: 10 Brand Preference: - Lovable is found to be the most favored brand by the respondents. 50% of the respondents showed their preference for this brand. This is most probably is the reflection of the results of companys extensive marketing campaign. While the sister brand Daisy Dee developed specifically for the Indian domestic market was second in preference with 36% of the consumers opting for it. Next preferred brand was Groversons (Paris Beauty), which was opted by 20% of the respondents. Libertina is preferred by 17% respondents, but the consumers using this brand are very loyal to it in spite of limited styles and lack of innovation in designs. Triumph even a very late entrant in the lingerie market in India and a premium brand has been able to develop a respectable share for itself. Almost all the respondents are using these brands for more than a year (Fig.: 11).

The respondents were asked to rate the brands of their choice for the styles, fit, comfort, colours, fabric, ease of availability, price and care and maintenance. It is found that Lovable, the most preferred brand was rated low for availability of colours and price as compared to style, fit, comfort etc.
Style Preference: - In reference to style of bra, simple and comfortable are preferred by 52% of respondents while rest of the 48% opted for fancy and comfortable bras (Fig.: 12). The most preferred style of the bra is found to be the regular full cup bra that is opted by 84% of the respondents.14% of respondents also opted for sports bra that is mainly used while exercising or sleeping at night. It is surprising to note that only 22% of the respondents opted for under wired bra, which is technically supposed to provide maximum support, much required for middle aged women. It was seen that there is an upward trend in the demand of padded bras that can help one achieve a fuller figure (Fig.: 13).

Brand Preference
Playtex Triumph Sona Teenager Marks and Spencer Bodyline Liberty World Underlines Libertina Peter Pan Bodycare Romance Daisy Dee Groversons Lovable 0 20 40 60 No. of Respondents 80 40 100 100 120 16 12 20 72 4 8 8 24 32 8 16 4 36

Figure: 11

Preference for Style

Fancy and Comfortable 48% Fancy and Sensuous 0%

Simple and Comfortable 52%

Figure: 12

Preferences For Bra Styles

1 80 1 60

168

No. Of Respondents

1 40 1 20 1 00 80 60 40 20 0

44 28 8 Regular Full Cup Bra Padded Underwired Pushup Sports Strapless 28 4

Figure: 13 Bra Components Fabric: - 100% cotton and cotton lycra were the most favorable fabrics opted as first preference by 50% of the respondents each. Cotton lace and lace with lycra followed as second preference. It was seen that consumers were aware that lycra with cotton enhances the fit of the garment. Fabrics that were not opted by a majority of consumers were satin, silk and nylon mainly because of the climatic conditions (Table: 1). FABRIC PREFERENCES
S.No. . FABRIC CONSUMER PREFERENCES IN TERMS OF RANKS (PERCENTAGE) I 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. PURE COTTON COTTON LACE NYLON LACE SILK LACE COTTON LYCRA LACE LYCRA SATIN SYNTHETIC LYCRA 100(50) 0 0 0 100(50) 0 0 0 II 20(10) 64(32) 8(4) 8(4) 40(20) 44(22) 0 12(6) III 28(14) 56(28) 0 4(2) 28(14) 20(10) 4(2) 8(4) IV 8(4) 8(4) 12(6) 12(6) 8(4) 24(12) 8(4) 12(6) V 4(2) 8(4) 12(6) 12(6) 0 16(8) 16(8) 16(8) VI 0 4(2) 8(4) 16(8) 0 12(6) 8(4) 8(4) VII 0 0 16(8) 8(4) 0 0 8(4) 16(8) VIII 0 0 12(6) 4(2) 0 0 8(4) 20(10) NOT OPTED 40(20) 60(30) 124(62) 136(68) 24(12) 84(42) 148(74) 104(52)

Table: 1 Shoulder Straps: - Narrow elasticized straps are the most favored as preferred by 82% of the respondents. 18% of the respondents opted for transparent shoulder straps which they use with the dresses where shoulder straps may be visible like cut sleeve dresses, halter

neck outfits etc. 14% of the consumers want narrow cotton straps as they have sensitive skin and develop allergies from Nylon straps. Padded shoulder straps that can give a respite from digging in straps and subsequent rashes were opted by only 4% of consumers (Fig.: 14).
Preferences for Shoulder Straps
1 80 1 60

164

No. of Respondents

1 40 1 20 1 00 80 60 40 20 0

28

20

28

24

36 8 Padded Shoulder Straps

Narrow Elasticized

Narrow Cotton

Broad Broad Fabric Sring Straps Transparent Elasticized Straps

Figure: 14

Preferences for Fasteners

1 80 1 60

168

No. of respondents

1 40 1 20 1 00 80 60 40 20 0

46 32 20 12 Narrow Elastic Band with S Hook Front Opening 4

Elastic Band Fabric Band with Double with Double Hook Hook

Narrow Fabric Band Elastic Band with Single with Single Hook Hook

Figure: 15

Fasteners: - For fasteners, elastic band with double hook is the most preferred option given by 84% of the respondents. 23% of the respondents opted for narrow fabric bands with single hook (Fig.: 15). Colour: White was found to be the most preferred colour for bras followed by black. More number of pieces are owned by people in basic colour of white in contrast to fancy colours which are limited to one or two pieces. Black pieces are also limited to one or two. 50% of the respondents also like to keep at least one beige piece in their lingerie collection. Other colours preferred after plum are pink, peach and blue. It was found out that the choice of colour for innerwear is guided by the outerwear colour to a large extent. Darker colours like plum are preferred more by consumers with dark complexion as they feel it makes their innerwear less visible (Table: 2). COLOUR PREFERENCES
S.No. COLOURS NO. OF RESPONDENTS OWNING (PERCENTAGE OF RESPONDENTS) 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 0 76(38) 100(50) 52(26) 44(22) 16(8) 52(26) 84(42) 72(36) 4(2) 4(2) 4(2) 44(22) 24(12) 0 0 0 0 60(30) 0 4(2) 4(2) 0 0 Table: 2 24(12) 0 0 0 0 0 SPECIFIED 6. 20(10) 4(2) 0 0 0 0 7 . 0 0 0 0 0 0 NO 8. 0 4(2) 4(2) 0 0 0 OF PIECES. NOT OPTED 0 8(4) 20(10) 140(70) 152(76) 180(90)

1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6.

WHITE BLACK BEIGE PLUM PINK OTHERS

Most of the consumers were found to be open to accept new colours and styles. 34% of the respondents felt that they would stick to white as colour for innerwear (Fig.: 16). Consumers were found to be more adventurous in accepting new styles as compared to the colours. 80% of respondents said they would like to go for new styles (Fig.: 17).

Acceptance for New Colours as per Trends

Stick to Traditional Colours 34% Definitely try 12%

Might Try 54%

Figure: 16

Size And Fit: - The most widely used bra size is 36 inches followed by 38 inches (Fig.: 17). While B is the most preferred cup size which 44% of the respondents are using (Fig.: 18). It is surprising to note that 36% of the respondents did not know their cup size. None of the respondents could correctly state the method of measuring their bra size. Whatever information is available with the consumers regarding how to measure their own size has been gathered from the package or advertisements. Only 30% of consumers try out different sizes of bras to decide the correct size before purchasing. Many of them i.e. 60% of respondents buy the size that they have been wearing for long.
Bra Sizes Used 80 70 No. of Respondents 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 32 inches 34 inches 36 inches 38 inches 40 inches 16 8 0 >40 inches 48 68 60

Figure: 17

Cup Sizes Used 100 90 80 70 60 50 40 30 20 10 0 A

88

No. of Respondents

56 36 12

Don't Know

Figure: 18

Decision Regarding Size

1 40

120
1 20

No. of Respondents

1 00

80

60
60

40

24

20

By Measuring

By trying out different sizes

Have Been Using this Size

Figure: 20 Two major problems regarding the size faced by consumers are change in size with brand and with style. Only 14% of the consumers are satisfied with the sizes of the bras available (figure: 21). Problems Faced Regarding Sizes
140 No. of Respondents 120 100 80 60 40 20 0 Size Differ with Brands Size Changes with Style No Problem 28 88 124

Figure: 21 As far as the fit of the bra is concerned most of the respondents are satisfied with the fit of their innerwear. But it is very important to know here that none of the respondents could define fit in relation to innerwear correctly. 50% of the respondents feel that bras should be tailor made as it can provide better fit and comfort while rest 50% do not agree with the idea. They feel that the subject is too personal to be discussed with the tailor or

they are happy with the fit of the bras they are using. Also they feel it is too technical a garment to be handled well by a tailor. Buying Pattern: - It was observed that with more and more number of exclusive lingerie shops coming up in various markets of Delhi, people prefer to go to these shops to make their purchases rather than departmental stores. As many as 58% of the respondents buy their innerwear from exclusive lingerie stores while only 26% make their purchases from departmental stores. Generally, innerwear is bought once in six months as reported by 54% of respondents while, 40% of them buy it every three months. Majority of respondents buy two to three bras at a time. Trials are very rarely done before purchase. Only 20% of the respondents try their bras before every purchase. 40% of the consumers try their innerwear only while buying a new style and 26% while buying a new brand. But there are a large percentage of consumers i.e. 22% who do not try their bras before purchase (Fig.: 23). 62% of the consumers prefer to buy separate piece of bra or panty in contrast to sets that are preferred by only 2% of consumers (Fig.: 24). Out of many factors kept in mind while selecting a bra, comfort is found to be the most important one opted by 52% of people followed by fit opted by 34% of respondents as foremost criterion for selection of lingerie. Brand is the third point to be kept in mind while selecting lingerie by many people (42%). Care and maintenance gets the least preference only after aesthetics (Table: 3).

Place of Purchase of Bras

1 40

1 20

116

No. of Respondents

1 00

80

60

52 36

40

20

4
0

Exclusive Stores

Departmental Stores

Shop in Local Market

Specific Shop

Figure: 22

BUYING CRITERION
S.No. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. FACTORS KEPT IN MIND BRAND COMFORT FIT AESTHETICS PRICE DURABILITY CARE & MAINT. NO. OF RESPONDENTS OPTING (PERCENTAGE OF RESPONDENTS) I II III IV 28(14) 8(4) 84(42) 40(20) 104(52) 80(40) 4(2) 0 68(34) 92(46) 24(12) 12(6) 4(2) 12(6) 32(16) 32(16) 0 8(4) 20(10) 60(30) 8(4) 0 24(12) 48(24) 4(2) 0 12(6) 4(2) FOR V 20(10) 4(2) 0 32(16) 28(14) 76(38) 32(16) DIFFERENT VI 8(4) 4(2) 0 56(28) 52(26) 40(20) 32(16) RANKS VII 8(4) 0 4(2) 24(12) 32(16) 0 112(56)

Table: 3
Trials before Purchase
90 80 70

80

No. of Respondents

60 50 40 30 20 1 0 0

52 40 44

Everytime

Only for New Styles

Only for New Brands

Don't Try

Figure: 23

Freference for Sets or Singles

Both 36% Sets 2%

Singles 62%

Figure: 24

Segregation of Bras: - Innerwear is segregated to a large extent depending on season, time of the day, activity and attire. 48% of the consumers use cotton fabric bras in pastel colour for summers while dark colours and fabrics like satin are used in winters. 64% of the respondents use same kind of bra throughout the day but 36% wear loose bras while sleeping. 30% of the respondents wear sports bras while exercising. Different bras are used for western and Indian dresses by 42% of the respondents (Fig.: 25). When asked about the idea of visible lingerie 72% of respondents rejected it while 24% said they might try it (Fig.: 26). 70% of the respondents did not show any preference for inbuilt bras while 20% liked the idea but specifically for swim wear.
Segregation of Bras
250

200

No. of Respondents

1 50

104

128

140

116

1 00

50

96

72

60

84

Season

Time

Activity

Attire

Figure: 25

Acceptance for Visible Lingerie

May Be 24% Yes 4%

No 72%

Figure: 26

It can be concluded that future of lingerie industry in India is brighter and it is expected to grow in a rapid manner, especially in the post-quota regime. Many of the international retailers are already in the process of collaborating with Indian manufacturers along with their specific inputs like design and technology. It is very important for the multinational producers to understand the Indian consumers and their preferences to be successful. Due to the limited availability and the lack of specialized and organized retail ambience, the fashion consciousness and quality awareness of the Indian consumer for intimate apparel is yet to be fully developed. India is also one of the most fragmented retail markets in the world. The combined market share of the five retailers in India totals less than 2%. There is huge potential waiting to be tapped. Conclusions The results can be concluded as follows: Innerwear market in India is growing at the rate of 17%. There is a huge potential for the organized sector to grow by making inroads into the share of unorganized sector. Leading international brands are turning their eyes towards India by setting up joint ventures with local players. Indian manufacturers are offering products in the price range of Rs. 50-1000. Design development of brassieres is based on the availability of interesting fabrics and trims and not many efforts are made to gather customer feedback. Specialty products for various age groups are not offered. Full cup brassiere is the most popular style offered. Bras are offered mainly in white colour followed by black and beige. Sizes offered for bras mainly varies from 30-38 inch., only in one cup size mainly B. Cotton is the most common fabric used to manufacture lingerie. Lovable is the most favoured brand of Indian consumers followed by Paris Beauty (Groversons). Simple and comfortable styles are preferred. Most of the respondents prefer full cup bra. Cotton Lycra is the most preferred followed by pure cotton. White is the most frequently purchased colour. Size of the bra used maximum is 38 inches with B cup size. Consumers lack awareness regarding the product, their own sizes for lingerie and styles available. Innerwear are bought every six months mainly from department stores. Trials are rarely done before the purchase. Fit, comfort and brand image are main factors kept in mind by the consumers while selecting a bra. Efforts need to be made towards educating the consumers.

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