Clothing factory in Sri Lanka

MAS Intimates Thurulie

A fresh perspective Sustainable construction

By Peter Spirig, CEO Holcim Lanka

Quantum change and transferability Ecological quality and energy conservation Ethical standards and social equity Economic performance and compatibility Contextual and aesthetic impact MAS Intimates Thurulie MAS Fabric Park and MAS Intimates Site description Site design Building program Sustainable approach Design for passive cooling Design for lean production Employee well-being Indoor thermal comfort Construction materials Economic performance Energy efficiency Water management Clean energy Green manufacturing Interviews Project Team Leader for MAS Intimates Thurulie Vidhura Ralapanawe MAS Intimates CEO and Managing Director Dian Gomes Acknowledgements and sources Holcim Foundation Technical data

MAS Intimates Thurulie

Clothing factory in Sri Lanka

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A fresh perspective
By Peter Spirig, CEO of Holcim Lanka

Sustainable factory design is important because industrial manufacturing not only consumes substantial energy and material resources, but directly or indirectly accounts for significant emissions of pollutants and greenhouse gases. The factory as a building type has emerged over the last two centuries as a machine for mass production, with little concern for environmental or social effects. Factory owners and designers who wish to advance beyond this model must dismiss all preconceptions of what a factory is. The designers of MAS Intimates Thurulie attained a fresh perspective by concentrating on environmental and social criteria. They created a building in which every occupant enjoys fresh air, natural light, comfortable surroundings, and beautiful outdoor views of intact nature. Operation of the building is not only energy efficient but carbon neutral. Seventy five percent of the factorys land area is left to nature, covered with greenery or water, and managed as a habitat for plants and animals. The approach led to an extraordinary factory that is not a sweatshop, but a workplace in unison with nature; not a sprawling footprint in its rural setting, but a preserver of habitat; not a carefree consumer of energy, but a miser. How did this noteworthy achievement come about? Although the factory is in Sri Lanka, the story begins in the United Kingdom. Marks & Spencer learned that its customers demanded even greater ethical and environmental responsibility. Management responded by devising Plan A, a five-year eco program for worldwide improvement, including the companys suppliers, one of which is MAS Intimates. The new plant that MAS Intimates planned at Thulhiriya and built with the support of Marks & Spencer is one of the flagship Eco Factory projects under Plan A. Everyone in this story is a winner. Marks & Spencer further bolstered its image with concrete proof of its commitment to people and to the environment; the workers at MAS
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This innovative structure invites architects and industrialists to rethink the factory as a building type.

Intimates Thurulie enjoy an exceptional working environment; MAS Holdings has an efficient new plant recognized as a benchmark in the apparel industry; consumers have a further source of clothing they can trust; the government of Sri Lanka has assurance that the rehabilitation of the formerly abandoned industrial park is well under way; the communities near the plant have regained economic hope; and animals reign undisturbed on the facility grounds all night long. It is the combination of all these benefits that makes this building a remarkable example of sustainable design. MAS Intimates Thurulie was designed, built, and commissioned in just thirteen months encouraging evidence that it is clearly possible to make significant progress toward sustainability during our lifetime. We must not forget that MAS Intimates Thurulie is a true proponent of sustainability because it combines not only environmental and social performance, but is also economically successful against stringent competition from other, less sustainability-minded manufacturers in the garment industry. MAS Intimiates Thurulie clearly shows that a company can indeed do well by doing good. Holcim (Lanka) Ltd is proud to have been involved in the realization of this forward-looking building as supplier of locally-produced cement. We take pleasure in publishing this booklet to raise awareness of the opportunities for adopting new approaches in construction. Our thanks go to the Swiss-based Holcim Foundation for Sustainable Construction for providing extensive support in preparing this publication for the benefit of stakeholders also beyond Sri Lanka.

Sustainable construction
Quantum change and transferability Ethical standards and social equity Ecological quality and energy conservation Economic performance and compatibility Contextual response and aesthetic impact

Sustainable development and architecture are multifarious subjects intertwined with many other complex issues. To make sustainable construction easier to understand, evaluate, and apply, the Holcim Foundation for Sustainable Construction developed a five-point definition. These five so-called target issues serve as yardsticks to measure the degree to which a building contributes to sustainable development. Three of the five target issues align with the primary goals of the Rio Agenda: balanced environmental, social, and economic performance. A further target issue applies specifically to building the creation of good buildings, neighborhoods, towns, and cities. The final target issue recognizes the need for significant advancements that can be applied on a broad scale. These five target issues are explained in detail and illustrated at www.holcimfoundation.org/target. Following is a summary of the five criteria and how MAS Intimates Thurulie meets them.

Quantum change and transferability

Significant advancements in construction practice, if applied on a broad scale, can contribute much toward global sustainability. Important advances must be recognized as such and repeatedly applied to achieve significant change. Practices and ideas that transfer best are those that are affordable, simple, and broadly applicable.

MAS Intimates Thurulie claims to be the worlds first clothing factory powered solely by carbon-neutral sources. The building is a visionary departure from the traditional factory. It sets new standards for ethics and environmental stewardship in manufacturing. As a model building under Marks & Spencers eco-initiative Plan A, the project is an example for the company, the apparel industry, and other industries.

The design is advanced in many respects. Compared with the average factory, it is state of the art. As the flagship factory of MAS Holdings, the building is a globally publicized icon symbolic of the companys commitment to sustainable development.

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Ecological quality and energy conservation

Sustainable buildings conserve finite resources and minimize greenhouse gas emissions. Good built environments are healthful for humans, animals, and plants. Green buildings help keep the natural environment and ecosystems healthy by reducing waste, controlling pollution, and treating land, air, and water as precious resources.

MAS Intimates Thurulie was designed in compliance with USGBC standards for green buildings. The owner is applying for LEED certification for the building, which attests to outstanding overall environmental performance.*

The compact building is carefully placed on the intensively planted site to minimize environmental impact and provide habitat for a broad variety of plant and animal species. Every drop of water on the site is

Energy required for operation is forty percent lower than that of comparable factories. Only renewable and carbon-neutral energy sources are used.

carefully managed; consumption of potable water is half that of comparable plants. To reduce the gray energy in the building, the main exterior walls are made of compressed stabilizedearth blocks manufactured forty kilometers from the site.

* LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) is the Green Building Rating System of the U.S. Green Building Council (USGBC).

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Ethical standards and social equity

In many communities, sustainable construction principally involves supplying urgent basic needs such as shelter, water, schools, and access to goods, services, and medical care. Towns and buildings must respond to emotional and psychological needs of people by providing stimulating environments, raising awareness of important values, inspiring the human spirit, and bonding society. Sustainable construction also includes fair and respectful treatment of everyone involved during the design, construction, use, and recycling of buildings and cities.

Health and well-being of staff are central to the design of MAS Intimates Thurulie. The building offers a comfortable, healthful, and attractive indoor environment for all users.

The production floor is divided into separate areas where workers collaborate in autonomous teams, enhancing productivity and employee satisfaction. The eco-factory is an ethical

As part of its service to employees, the plant buses employees to and from work, provides free lunches for staff, trains workers, and provides on-site conveniences such as medical care and banking.

response to consumers who called for stronger environmental stewardship. The beautiful and stimulating environment is uplifting; the factory is a place where people feel respect and dignity.

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Economic performance and compatibility

Every building must be financially feasible to build, operate, maintain, and ultimately remove. Sustainable buildings can help balance the distribution of wealth by supporting the disadvantaged. This can be achieved by establishing long-term new bases for livelihoods, stimulating local economic activity, and paving the way to broader economic integration.

MAS Intimates Thurulie is designed for lean manufacturing; the factory is profitable to operate, displaying energy efficiency, operational efficiency, and good productivity. Because operation is very efficient, the payback period for the added costs of making a green building is only five years.

The iconic building enhances the brand equity of the manufacturer, MAS Intimates; its group, MAS Holdings; and its retailer, Marks & Spencer. The new factory revives a historic industrial center, reestablishing a local economic base and providing sustainable long-term employment for 1,300 local people. As a motor of the new MAS Fabric Park, the plant is central to the further development of an efficient manufacturing hub.

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Contextual and aesthetic impact

Sustainable architecture is durable and adaptable. It provides an attractive, comfortable, and functional indoor environment. It enhances its surroundings, fitting functionally and aesthetically into the community setting. It provides culturally relevant indoor and outdoor spaces.

MAS Intimates Thurulie offers a pleasant and functional indoor environment that ideally supports manufacturing. Harmonizing with the site, the building expresses respect for nature. The indoor and outdoor spaces are woven into a green park. Built literally of local soil, furnished and finished with indigenous materials such as bamboo, and incorporating traditional Sri Lankan architectural elements such as courtyards, the building is of and for the locality and culture in which it exists.

To achieve a comfortable indoor environment economically, the design responds to the tropical climate with a full array of passive cooling measures and with an energy-efficient mechanical cooling system. The building is a catalyst for the 68-hectare MAS Fabric Park, planned as a mixed-use rural settlement that offers a high-quality environment for working and living.

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MAS Fabric Park and MAS Intimates Thurulie

Apparel production and export accounts for two thirds of Sri Lankas industrial product. The three-billion-dollar industry is the countrys largest export earner, directly and indirectly supporting a million of the nations 21 million inhabitants. Thulhiriya Textile Mills was established in 1968 as a state institution in Thulhiriya, a rural community 65 kilometers northeast of Colombo, the nations capital. In the 1970s the 68-hectare complex was the largest mill complex in Asia, the motor of the regional economy, and a driver of national industrial development. After the complex was privatized in the 1980s, it declined over the following two decades and finally went bankrupt in 2003, which devastated the local economy. The state tried to revive the complex several times, but without success. In 2006 the government of Sri Lanka invited MAS Holdings, the countrys largest clothing manufacturer, to lease the complex and revitalize it as a privately managed industrial park for textile processing and export. Thus MAS Fabric Park was formed from the remnants of its forty year old forerunner. The new clothing factory MAS Intimates Thurulie opened here in 2008, initially employing several hundred people, and returning economic prosperity to the district. Costs in Sri Lanka are higher than those in most of Asia, so Sri Lankan companies pick niches to survive. MAS makes sophisticated, high-value garments such as lingerie for Victorias Secret and other leading brands. MAS Intimates Thurulie manufactures lingerie exclusively for Britains biggest clothier, Marks & Spencer, which operates about 750 stores in

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Europe, 600 in the UK. Marks & Spencer conducted a customer survey in 2006 that showed that 78 percent of its customers wanted to know what materials go into the products they buy, where and how the items are made, and what the related environmental impact is. Answering to customer response, Marks & Spencer devised Plan A a USD 400,000, five-year, company-wide environmental and social sustainability program. Plan A comprises 100 points to be achieved by 2012, one of which is setting up model green factories that supply goods to Marks & Spencer. Marks & Spencer invited three Sri Lankan suppliers to build such model factories. MAS Intimates Thurulie became the first plant to be designed in line with this plan, and is believed to be the first purpose-built green manufacturing facility in the world. It cost seven million dollars. Marks & Spencer financed USD 400,000 of the sum, paying for much of the green design and for the plants photovoltaic system, the largest in Sri Lanka. Although MAS invested a great amount in the factory, Marks & Spencer pays no premium for the products, and provides no guarantees. MAS voluntarily supports Plan A primarily because the company insists on contributing to a sustainable world.

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Site description

Ground plan

MAS Fabric Park is located in Thulhiriya, five kilometers from a hub where two highways intersect. The park possesses well-developed infrastructure with roads, all utilities, and a water treatment plant. It includes zones for industrial, warehousing, residential, commercial, institutional, and religious uses. It also includes green belts, but none near the site. MAS assessed the sites available in the industrial park. Although the park is large, few suitable sites were available. The vacant buildings in the park poorly suited the needs of the future plant. The main building of the old mill is a dark hall measuring 500 meters by 1,000 meters. A site at the northern tip of the park was chosen for the new factory.
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The site measures 3.32 hectares and is roughly trapezoidal, bordering Kurunegala Main Road to the east, the Ma Oya River to the west, a DogiEFA factory to the south, and an electrical substation to the north. The general orientation is toward the northwest. The rolling terrain tumbles six meters from the highest point in the southeast corner to the lowest in the west. Slopes are steep only along the southern boundary. The soil is laterite with high clay content. The wooded site was previously undeveloped. A manmade pond, measuring about 6,900 square meters, occupied much of the western half of the site. The site had been used earlier as a recreational park, and it also had been a deer park. Tall trees grew on some parts of the site, and tall grass and bushes covered other parts. The climate is typical of the lowland wet-zone of southwest Sri Lanka. Diurnal temperature fluctuation is greater than annual or seasonal fluctuation. Average daily temperatures vary from 23 to 30 Celsius. High temperatures exceeding 32occur on about 65 days a year. The region has more than 100 rain days a year, with approximately 2,400 millimeters per year of rainfall. Humidity averages 74 percent, but can easily approach 90 percent in early morning and late evening during most of the year.

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Site design

The thrust of the site design is to accommodate the building on one hand and to respect nature on the other. The architects approach was to limit the intrusion of the building on the land and to treat the unbuilt areas of the site as a natural habitat. This was achieved by planning a compact building with a footprint of only 6,780 square meters, leaving a maximum of open space, which was either left undisturbed or improved with erosion control and new planting. The lake and the heavily wooded western part of the site were protected. Most large trees on the site were preserved. The building is located near the center of the site, situated in response to the terrain, climate, soil, and hydrology. Natural topography and drainage patterns were preserved as much as possible by situating the building along the contour lines and raising Building G on stilts. The footprint of the two-story building covers about fifteen percent of the site. The entrance to the site is at the southeast corner. Pedestrian and vehicular circulation are segregated at the entrance, and routed along efficient pathways. The main road for trucks hugs the eastern boundary of the site, merging midway with the shipping-and-receiving court. The employee entrance is north of the main gate, the visitor entrance is to the northwest, and ten parking spaces for cars of visitors and staff are to the west. Parking for 25 bicycles is provided next to the locker rooms and showers at the employee entrance. All roads, walks, and terraces on the site are paved with cement-stabilized earth instead of sealed pavement. The porous surface, including gravel in the mix of the top layer, reduces runoff and helps recharge the groundwater. Paving covers about ten percent of the site.

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Three quarters of the site is left to nature, including the lake, large areas of undisturbed terrain, and the densely overgrown western part of the site. Over 300 trees were planted, doubling the number on the site. Essentially all areas not taken by the building, lake, or pathways were planted with trees, most of them in the courtyards and in the green belt to the east of the building. Requirements for watering and maintenance are half the usual, due to the use of efficient drip irrigation and endemic and adapted species. Rare, endangered, and medicinal species are planted as well. Thurulie is in the intermediate climatic zone of Sri Lanka. The site can host plants from the countrys wet zone and dry zone. Species from both zones are present. For example, at the top of the cascade, dry-zone plants thrive in the strong sun. At the base, where water accumulates, wet-zone plants thrive in the moisture. The green roofs of the building support a local grass variety and some medicinal herbs. These plants require little maintenance. No drop of water that enters the site is lost without providing a benefit. Green areas are designed to absorb up to 25 millimeters of rain before runoff begins. Erosion is controlled by porous surfaces, dense planting, and, where necessary on steep slopes, stabilized soil. An innovative feature is the cascade a terraced slope built of cement-stabilized rammed earth. The pattern is reminiscent of terraced rice paddies in mountains. All runoff is channeled to the retention pond, which is the primary irrigation source for the greenery on the site.

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The pond was dredged and enlarged. Native fish species and indigenous water plants were introduced to create a sustainable and diverse biotope. With the lake and green areas, biodiversity on the site has expanded significantly. In particular, reptiles and birds, including waterfowl, have increased in number and variety. The facility is used during daylight hours only. At night the site is left to nature, and emissions of light and noise are kept low. With abundant greenery, undulating slopes, and the lake, the site is a beautiful setting for the factory. The vegetation helps keep the factory cool. Shading of the building and grounds will keep the building an estimated 1 to 2 Celsius cooler, especially when the trees mature and the green canopy spreads.

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Building program

MAS Intimates Thurulie, a 10,000-square-meter building for 1,300 people, is the first MAS plant designed fully in line with the MAS Operating System, the companys lean-production standard. In contrast to the industry norm, in which the typical factory is a single large hall, the lean-production standard requires smaller production areas, each containing a complete value stream, from cutting fabric to packaging finished garments. The production floors are free from columns and other hindrances, so that each production cell can arrange its machinery to best suit the garments being made. The arrangement of electrical receptacles and lighting

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Sustainable approach

Both MAS Holdings and Marks & Spencer wanted the plant to be an iconic model for green manufacturing, to set new standards for design, construction, and operation. Incorporating advanced technology in most areas, the building does this in several ways. To realize a sustainable design, the architects applied a three-point philosophy of respect for the site, respect for users, and respect for ecosystems. These three aims, complementing the functional and commercial requirements for the project, served as selection criteria for all materials and systems used in the building. The design is inspired by traditional Sri Lankan architecture, built partially on stilts, with courtyards, amid lush greenery. The building is energy efficient and the indoor climate is comfortable, a challenging combination in the tropics. It is powered by carbon-neutral sources. The facility uses half the water of comparable factories, even though the grounds are a veritable garden. It incorporates an anaerobic digestion system for sewage treatment. These are all suggestions of Plan A.

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Design for passive cooling

The building is designed for efficient production, a comfortable atmosphere, and low energy consumption. Meeting these three criteria in the tropics means mastering above all one thing cooling. Cooling is achieved at the plant primarily by passive design and secondarily by active systems. Passive means include the orientation and massing of building volumes, controlled fenestration and ventilation, shading of the building and its surroundings, and thermal mass and solar reflectivity of the facades and roofs. The high angle of the sun during most of the year makes the east and west facades the most difficult to shade. Thus, the main building volumes, the production spaces, are aligned on an east-west axis, the north and south facades being the largest. This solar orientation makes it easier to block direct solar radiation.

East Elevation

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The massing of the building volumes and the positioning and sizing of windows permit daylight to enter as natural illumination without causing substantial heat gain. Horizontal shading intercepts the northern sun at midyear and the southern sun later in the year. Thermal roof load, the largest contributor to heat gain and indoor discomfort in the tropics, is controlled by a combination of green roofs, photovoltaic roofs, and cool roofs. Green roofs cover 1,757 square meters of the building. They are installed on concrete decks over shortspan spaces such as the offices. Covered with turf and plants, the high thermal mass of this roof absorbs heat without transmitting it into the building. The cool roof is a lightweight metal roof assembly over the longspan production halls. The white metal, with a solar reflectivity index of 79, reflects four fifths of the solar energy that reaches the roof. The photovoltaic roof

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covers 200 square meters of the building with solar panels. This system not only prevents thermal gain, it transforms the energy into electricity. Another passive means of keeping the building cool is to cool the microclimate, or reduce the ambient heat around the building. The heat-island effect around the building is controlled by shading, by covering parking areas, by using lighter, reflective paving around the building instead of dark, heat-absorbent paving, and by shaded courtyards between the building volumes. The combination of the many passive cooling measures reduces the thermal load to a level that can be handled by environmentally efficient cooling systems instead of power-hungry conventional systems.

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Design for lean production

The facility accommodates 1,300 occupants, of whom nearly 1,100 are machine operators. The architects created a worker-centered design in which industrial processes are decentralized, according to the highproductivity MAS lean-manufacturing standard. The production floor is separated into five halls, creating a more intimate atmosphere. This not only makes climate control more efficient, but also supports a complete value chain within each hall. At the time of writing, all wings of the facility have been built except one, the two story Building E, which will be built in 2009. Just-in-time manufacturing processes dramatically reduce storage space required for raw material and finished goods in the facility, improving the percentage of the factory floor area utilized for value-adding activities. The production spaces are designed for an inventory-free operation the raw material required for the days is delivered in the morning, and the completed and packed garments leave the floor by end of the day. Internal layouts are planned to minimize transportation with all elements required for the machine operators to be within arms reach. Space is also allocated for systematic problem solving. The layout provides visual connection between offices and production floors. The plant is wireless network-enabled, and nearly all computer users have laptops and mobile phones linked to the company phone system, giving staff the mobility to work anywhere in the facility. In fact, managers are encouraged to work with their teams in small groups on the production floors. Meeting areas and lounges are interspersed throughout the building, encouraging impromptu exchanges.

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Employee well-being

In the interest of worker well-being, the architects paid special attention to the work areas, particularly regarding an attractive environment, pleasant outdoor views, thermal comfort, fresh air, and illumination, including natural light and task lighting. Large windows are a key part of the design, bringing the green outdoors into all working spaces. We feel like were working in a natural environment. There are trees around and good ventilation though there is no air conditioning, says machine operator Harshini Maheshika. Also in the interest of worker convenience, MAS operates chartered buses between the plant and nearby villages. Most employees commute by bus. Mass transit options will increase as more factories come on line in the park. The plant also provides free meals, medical care, and on-site banking. MAS developed Women Go Beyond, a program to educate and empower women, who comprise 85 percent of the plants workforce. MAS has strong community relationships and commitments to society. Mahesh Amalean, Chairman of MAS Holdings says: We believe strongly that if the people we work with have their basic needs taken care of, they are freer to concentrate on the work at hand and bring out their best.

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Indoor thermal comfort

The air in production spaces and offices is cooled and exchanged by a system of evaporative cooling units. These units intake outdoor air, filter it, and treat it with atomized water. The air is then distributed through ducts to the spaces, which remain under positive static pressure. Exhaust fans help replace the air at a rate of about 40 air changes per hour. Indoor air movement is perceptible. When atomized water is sprayed into the warm make-up air, the water evaporates, extracting thermal energy from the air. This reduces the dry-bulb temperature of the air while increasing the moisture content. The system reduces dry-bulb temperatures by up to 3Celsius and increases humidity by about ten percent. The amount of water spray is based on the indoor relative humidity, and thus depends on the diurnal variation of relative humidity on the site. More water is used at midday, and little or none in the mornings and evenings. When the outdoor humidity is high, no water is sprayed, and the units operate in the ventilation mode only.

The cafeteria is naturally ventilated, taking advantage of its situation on the top floor overlooking the lake. The green roof and shade of trees helps keep the space cool. A steady breeze usually provides adequate ventilation, eliminating the need for mechanical ventilation.

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The psychrometric chart below shows the extended comfort zones achievable at higher indoor air speeds. The limits of the comfort zone specified by ANSI/ASHRAE Standard 55-2004 are at an indoor air velocity below 0.2 m/s, for PMVs of 0.5, clothing of about 0.6 clo, and 1.2 met activity. This data was validated by workers in the factory and through surveys under similar climatic conditions elsewhere in Sri Lanka. Staff dress cool. All workers wear T-shirts and may work barefoot. The maximum observed temperature on the ground floor of Building C is 29 Celsius, which is acceptable because the indoor air velocity of 0.8 meters per second keeps the environment within the extended comfort zone specified by the ASHRAE standard. The air velocity is maintained by the balanced duct system, the design of which is quite different from ductwork for mechanical-compression or vapor-absorption air-conditioning systems.

Psychrometric chart from the ASHRAE Standard Handbook showing extended comfort zones. The indoor environment at MAS Intimates Thurulie is well within these zones.

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Construction materials

To reduce the gray energy in the building, the main exterior walls are made of compressed stabilized-earth blocks manufactured forty kilometers from the site. The blocks, made of local soil, sand, and locally manufactured cement, are machine molded with a wire-cut finish and chamfered corners. They are laid in a cement-soil-sand mortar in the ratio of 1:3:6, matching the color of the blocks. The large blocks minimize mortar joints. The walls require no plaster finish and are simply sealed with varnish on the interior and exterior. The building is framed in concrete and steel with a high recycling content. Roofing is zinc-aluminum. Windows are metal framed. Floor finishes include polished concrete tile, rendered and cut concrete, tile, and wood. Bamboo is used for window blinds and various forms of sunscreen. Non-hazardous finishes and materials are used throughout the building, ensuring good indoor air quality, which is aided by a high rate of air exchange. Partitions are gypsum board, and tabletops MDF. No viable greener alternatives are available in Sri Lanka. The construction process was managed with a special emphasis on minimizing negative impacts to the environment. Topsoil was separated during excavation and preserved to be used later for landscaping. To prevent soil erosion during construction, measures were taken such as

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planting, silt traps, and stormwater-collection ponds. Special mechanisms were introduced to recycle construction waste, reducing the amount of waste that went into landfills. Aesthetics of MAS Intimates Thurulie is fashioned by the interplay of linear structures softened by the organic forms of trees. The structure is finished with exposed steel and ducting, with soft brown brick walls. Vibrant purple, orange, and green accents create a dynamic feel. The pond has a calming influence as a serene counterbalance to the busy operations in the factory. Visuals are dominated by lush greenery. A boulder-garden centerpiece dominates the entrance. Art and antiques add character to the spaces, and the bare walls are adorned by colorful posters of lingerie models and the key environmental messages of the factory.

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Economic performance

The factory cost USD seven million to build; 25 percent more than the conventional equivalent. MAS expects the higher construction cost to be amortized within the first five years because of the energy-efficient operation of the building and higher operational efficiencies based on MOS. The factory purchases its green power at a premium, which it can afford because it consumes less. The additional cost of the green and ethical building creates intangible but substantial value in the form of goodwill. The building enhances the image of both MAS Holdings and Marks & Spencer, reinforcing the reputations of both as responsible and ethical companies. Employing 1,300 people, the plant revitalizes the local rural economy and provides sustainable livelihoods. MAS plans to invest USD one million in the park and achieve many forms of synergy among the various plants.

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Energy efficiency

MAS Intimates Thurulie was designed for low energy consumption by reducing power demand and by using efficient equipment. Electricity is virtually the sole form of energy used by clothing factories in Sri Lanka, required chiefly for production machinery, lighting, and air conditioning. Air conditioning alone accounts for about half the consumption in typical plants with conventional vapor-compression equipment. Using passive design to reduce heat loads, and efficient evaporative cooling equipment, an indoor temperature of 27 to 29 Celsius (compared with 25 to 26 in an average factory) is maintained, while consuming only 25 percent of the cooling energy of an average factory. Energy consumption for lighting was reduced by maximizing daylighting and by using well-designed systems with efficient lamps. Offices, cafeteria, lounge, reception area, meeting rooms, and board rooms are normally illuminated by daylight only. The glare-free illumination is usually adequate even on rainy days. Daylight is adequate roughly from 6 a.m. to 6 p.m., which easily covers the normal operating hours of the plant. An added benefit of doing without artificial lights is reduced heat gain inside the building. In conventional factories the whole production floor is floodlit at a uniform high intensity. At Thurulie, aisles are illuminated with natural and ambient light, and work areas are illuminated with task lighting highefficiency T5 tubes and LED lamps mounted on the sewing machines focusing the correct amount of light at needlepoint. The system requires about half the number of light fixtures. Every light fixture can be easily repositioned and switched on and off individually as required. Sewing machines with direct-drive servo motors were chosen for energy efficiency, as were laptop computers.
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Water management

Every drop of water that enters the site is carefully managed. Consumption of potable water is about half that of comparable plants. Rainwater that falls on the cool roofs is collected and used for flushing toilets. The storage tanks and toilets are gravity fed, eliminating the need for pumps. When the tanks run dry during a drought, water is sourced from the main own system. When the tanks become full after prolonged rain, the overflow is conducted underground into the pond. Rain patterns are such that rainwater covers ninety percent of the flushing needs. Rainwater that falls on the green roofs is collected, channeled through a graveland-sand filter, and discharged into the pond, which naturally replenishes the groundwater. Overflow from the pond feeds into the Ma Oya River. Wastewater from all plumbing fixtures is treated on site in an anaerobic plant. The system uses very little power relying primarily on gravity in moving wastewater and sewage to the plant using pumps only for the last phase. The plant by itself does not consume power and generates bio gas, which is captured and used in the kitchen. Water discharged from the treatment plant passes through an absorption-and-filtration bed, and the purified water is then conducted into the retention pond. Solids from the treatment plant are used as compost. The factory uses potable water only for cooking, washing, drinking (after filtration), for the evaporative cooling system, and as a backup for flushing toilets. Dual-flush toilets and low-flow plumbing fixtures minimize water consumption. The water comes from the Ma Oya River, which borders the park. It is purified and distributed by MAS Fabric Park. The plant is not connected to a municipal sewer or water distribution system. No water is used in production.
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Clean energy

The plant uses clean energy only, and in several forms. The rooftop photovoltaic system with a capacity of 25.6 kilowatts generates ten percent of the power required. Thurulie boasts the first use of net metering in Sri Lanka. Net metering is an arrangement between the power company and consumer whereby the consumer is credited for the electricity it generates and feeds into the public grid. At Thurulie this happens on weekends and holidays. A small hydroelectric power plant connected to the public grid provides the other ninety percent of the factorys power. Thurulie signed a power-

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supply agreement with the plant, the first such agreement in Sri Lanka. Thus the plants two primary energy sources, photovoltaic and hydroelectric power, are renewable and carbon neutral. Three electric bikes are used at the plant. The plant is equipped with a vacuum-tube system for solar water heating. Water is preheated in the tubes and then heated in conventional boilers. Methane gas from the sewage-treatment plant is collected for firing stoves and ovens in the kitchen.

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Green manufacturing

MAS Intimates Thurulie is an encouraging picture of what green manufacturing can be an energy-efficient plant using carbon-neutral power from renewable sources, and a non-polluting, resource-conserving operation in an environmentally friendly setting. The plant strives toward zero waste in landfills. Empty thread cones are recycled as are paper, plastics, glass, and metal. The plant is collaborating with Marks & Spencer to develop a fabric-defibering system for fabric waste. Fabric scraps currently go to local craftspeople. The company seeks to reduce transport-related CO2 emissions by promoting carpooling and offering financial incentives for employees who commute by bicycle or bus. Looking beyond the site, the sourcing of base materials and the distribution of finished goods come into the overall picture of the supply chain. Sri Lanka traditionally has had to import most of its raw materials and fuels. MAS Holdings is working to establish local sources of base materials. Finished products are shipped to Europe by sea, the most environmentally efficient mode of transport. Thus MAS Intimates Thurulie, as an environmentally, socially, and economically sustainable factory, significantly contributes to the greening of this international supply chain.

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Creating awareness and understanding for sustainability

Interview with Vidhura Ralapanawe, Manager Sustainability & Communications at MAS Intimates and Team Leader of the Thurulie building project

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Has this green building changed the attitude of people toward sustainability?

Vidhura Ralapanawe: A building should always invite a person to engage, to create curiosity. At Thurulie we wanted to create a curiosity and an interest to look into the concept of sustainability. This is a big philosophical challenge, because while many will broadly articulate what it is, there is very little consensus on how radical the shift has to be, beyond business as usual. If we need broader engagement and enhancement of discourse, a mere green building would not have sufficed. During the design phase, we made a conscious choice to optimize the building-human ecosystem rather than just the building. The building invites the active participation of its occupants for optimal functioning. There are required behavioral changes more climate-appropriate clothing, being a conscious consumer of energy, i.e. switching off lights in lavatories and workspaces when not needed. All of this is achieved with creating awareness and understanding. All occupants of the building get detailed training that explains the whys and hows of the building. If we are to move into a sustainable society, we need radical behavioral change. We could have designed a motion-sensitive lighting system that automatically switches off when no one is around. But if one gets used to switching off an unnecessary light at work, he or she will do the same thing at home. And we know this is actually happening. This is a learning center. In the first six months of operations, we have hosted more than 1,000 people coming to see the factory people from the apparel industry, construction industry, industrialists, academia, competitors, and students. We discuss climate change and its local impacts. We framed our approach in broader environmental principles. We have made it iconic and accessible, taking time to explain the principles behind what we do, and a lot of the visitors take something back. Thurulie has inspired many suppliers to Marks & Spencer on their own journeys toward creating sustainable buildings. I think we have created a transformational building.
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MAS Intimates Thurulie is designed to meet LEED criteria for green buildings. How did you incorporate this criteria into the design process for this building? Do you think there is a danger of using the criteria as a checklist to collect certification points, but missing the unique opportunities that each project presents?

There is the danger of LEED becoming a straightjacket rather than an enabler, and the distinction lies in the hands of the designers. At Thurulie, LEED came into the picture later in the design process once the concept, form, and structures were well defined. So LEED was never the driver of the design. I always consider Thurulie to be first a green building, and second a LEED building. For us, LEED was never the ultimate test of sustainability. LEED is set to become the de facto global standard, hence it will be very difficult to ignore. It is a great standard and will ensure one has looked at all aspects of sustainability within the design. When clients start demanding specific LEED ratings it will constrain creative expression, and force points accumulation. LEED of course is a consensus standard, and that has its inherent challenges. But sustainability demands that one break free from the orthodoxy, and designers need to be daring enough to look beyond LEED.

The building footprint could have been further reduced by adding a third floor. The production halls are column free to give flexibility in the layout of the production lines. Two or three columns down the middle could have halved the span, greatly reducing the steel framing.

Factories in Sri Lanka are built as column-free single story buildings. Two-story is itself a departure from the traditional style. Multiple stories do pose challenges in terms of regular goods and people movement, as well as fire safety. Installing columns would have reduced steel framing, but our lean processes demand column-free spaces. It gives additional flexibility in changing the layouts of each
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production cell as well as the overall layout within the production hall as well as enabling line-of-sight visibility of the complete production floor from any one location. While we could have worked with the current team to come up with a suitable layout, that is merely a transient solution. The facility needs to be able to support different product and or manufacturing processes. Shifting away from the conventional column-free factory model could have hindered the longer term usability of the facility.

Thurulie design is heavily reliant on trees for functionality and aesthetics. What prompted this choice?

Its partly influenced by the location. Thulhiriya is an area with lush verdancy, and the same can be said of the homes of most employees working in the factory. So there is a natural affinity to this type of a setting compared to a sterile factory type of setting. Trees also bring in a natural harmony to the surroundings, in addition to the cooling properties and carbon sequestration it brings. On top of that, there is the aesthetic impact. The fluidity of the form, and how it interplays with the strong lines of the building, and the utter calmness that the surrounding brings into the busy working environment it is exactly what we wanted to achieve. And in a few years time, when the newly planted trees really spread out and thrive, this facility would be phenomenal to behold. MAS as an organization also has an affiliation to an aesthetic heavily reliant on trees and landscape an initiative personally driven by Dian Gomes.

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The timeframe from the concept to the opening of the factory was merely thirteen months an outstanding achievement. How was this possible?

Time was perhaps the biggest challenge we had. From the beginning we understood that we had to create new rules of engagement between the three entities design team, contractors, and the company if we were to deliver the project on time. Success of the project depended on how well the relationship worked. We were fortunate to tap into multiple synergies across the whole process. There was a sense of experimentation and breaking boundaries that permeated across all parties all the way to subcontractors. There was proactive engagement and a deep amount of trust. This enabled us to tap into creativity at a grassroots level all the way to the masons. Thus at the end the facility became better than we envisaged, staying true to the original principles laid out thirteen months ago. Still we did not leave anything to chance. The thermal control systems were simulated and then deployed in trial spaces to tweak the system. The materials were tested for structural properties. The rapid schedule was not a shortcut. We needed an exceptional team, who were brilliant in their own fields, yet open enough to create synergies and build on each other. We were able to create an idea of being explorers together, which was brilliantly utilized by Ushaan Abeywickrama, General Manager of MAS Intimates Thurulie, to ensure that the execution was exceptional and two weeks before schedule.

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Opportunity to rewrite industry standards

Interview with Dian Gomes, CEO and Managing Director of MAS Intimates

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Going green is not something we widely hear from the apparel industry. Can you tell us what it means to you?

Dian Gomes: For us, going green means opportunity the opportunity to rewrite industry standards, and bring the message of corporate environmental sustainability to the fore in Sri Lanka and the world. We have always been an ethical apparel manufacturer. We have invested heavily in uplifting the lives of our employees, and the communities that we operate in. We have focused on empowering our employees, especially women, who make up the majority of our workforce. Our exceptional standards and factory conditions, and our flagship program Women Go Beyond, has received industry plaudits. Making a difference is an element of our culture which is ingrained in the DNA of our employees. Our focus has been primarily on social sustainability of our business, and moving toward environmental sustainability is a natural progression. The current global environmental challenges demand a robust response from companies. We need to radically reassess all aspects of our business, and understand its impacts in order to minimize them. We need a new paradigm for the industry.

What were the origins of MAS Intimates Thurulie?

Marks & Spencer approached us with their Plan A, inviting us to set up the first green factory under its umbrella. When I proposed this to Deshamanya Mahesh Amalean, Chairman of MAS Holdings, his support was wholehearted and immediate. He has always been a visionary chartPartnership of two like-minded companies: Sir Stuart Rose (M&S) and Mahesh Amalean (MAS) at the opening of the new factory.

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ing our companys direction years ahead. Our success was based on unconventional relationships we developed with our key customers and partners based on common values. This initiative fell right within that frame and synergized with our focused emphasis on sustainability. There were no benchmarks, no signposts along the way. It was a pioneering effort, without any blueprints to follow, but one which would impact the whole of Sri Lanka and beyond. A challenge, without a doubt, but it was a natural position for us to be in. To innovate and lead, to steer the industry in a whole new direction that is something we have always excelled in. It was innovative and challenging, and it was tightly coupled with sustainability a natural fit for MAS. Our customer relationships are always unconventional. We align ourselves with companies that share our values of social conscientiousness. Our relationship with Marks & Spencer broke new ground with the construction of Thurulie. To paraphrase Marks & Spencer CEO Sir Stuart Rose, it was really a partnership of two like-minded companies, M&S and MAS.

The apparel industry is a fiercely competitive one, especially in countries like Sri Lanka. How do you build the business case for this, and especially the premium capital cost?

Our role with our customers is not transactional, but based on relationships. This project marked a beginning we as well as Marks & Spencer understand the end value that this brings to both our brands. The extra cost is partly offset by reductions on operational costs, and increased efficiency. The plant is specifically designed for MASs lean manufacturing standard, MOS. MOSs primary focus is on the reduction of waste, including cost, whilst boosting efficiency. Thus, initial costs may have been high but we envision this to be offset in the future as the MOS system becomes full integrated. In a new business reality of shrinking margins and hyper-competition this would become a key leveraging and differentiating factor. Thurulie is an investment, and by changing industry standards and mindsets, it is already yielding dividends.
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Design team

Team leader: Vidhura Ralapanawe, MAS Intimates, vidhurar@masholdings.com General manager: Ushaan Abeywickrama, MAS Intimates Thurulie, ushaana@masholdings.com Architecture: Sanjeewa Lokuliyana, dslokuliyana@yahoo.com Architecture and conceptual framework: Professor Rohinton Emmanuel, University of Moratuwa, Sri Lanka, Rohinton.Emmanuel@gcal.ac.uk Civil engineering: Professor Thishan Jayasinghe, University of Moratuwa, Sri Lanka, thishan@civil.mrt.ac.lk Building materials: Dr. Chintha Jayasinghe, University of Moratuwa, Sri Lanka, chintha@civil.mrt.ac.lk Energy and cooling system: Professor Rahula Attalage, University of Moratuwa, Sri Lanka, rattalage@hotmail.com Ecology: Professor B. N. P. Sinhakumara, University of Sri Jayawardenapura, Sri Lanka, sinha@eureka.lk and Nalinda Peiris, Peoples Institute for Sustainable Development, 69/17C, Templars Road, Mount Lavinia, Sri Lanka, singha@eureka.lk Chemical engineering: Professor Ajith de Alwis, University of Moratuwa, Sri Lanka, ajith@cheng.mrt.ac.lk Project manager for construction: Akash Hettiarachchi, MAS Intimates Thurulie, akasha@masholdings.com General contractor: Maga Engineering (Pte) Ltd, 200, Nawala Road, Colombo 05, Sri Lanka, www.maga.lk Electrical engineering and lighting: Illukkumbura Automation (Pvt) Ltd, 23, Deal Place A, Colombo 03, Sri Lanka, iluko@sltnet.lk Interiors: Westgate International (Pvt) Ltd, 71, Sri Saranankara Road, Dehiwala, Sri Lanka, www.westgateinteriors.net
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Sources

Get your green pants here, The Economist, 31 May 2008 Address by His Excellency President Mahinda Rajapaksa at the opening of the Thulhiriya Textile Export Complex on October 19, 2007; www.president.gov.lk www.masholdings.com The Official Government News Portal of Sri Lanka LBRdigital, 17 May 2008, pp 4-7 Holcim Awards 2007/2008 Submission Form Devaka Senevirathna, Studio Times

Photos

Acknowledgements Grateful acknowledgement is due to Vidhura Ralapanawe,

Sustainability Manager, MAS Intimates, and to Kokila Arandara and Hashini Wickramaratne, MAS Intimates Thurulie MAS Intimates Thurulie (Pvt) Ltd, MAS Fabric Park, Kurunegala Road, Thulhiriya, Sri Lanka www.masholdings.com

Address

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Holcim Foundation

The Holcim Foundation for Sustainable Construction promotes innovative approaches to sustainable construction. The objective of the Holcim Foundation is to encourage sustainable responses to the technological, environmental, socioeconomic and cultural issues affecting building and construction, regionally as well as globally through a range of initiatives, including Holcim Awards, Holcim Forum, and Holcim Projects.

An international competition for future-oriented and tangible sustainable construction projects. The Holcim Awards recognize any contribution to sustainable construction irrespective of scale in architecture, landscape and urban design, civil and mechanical engineering and related disciplines. Prize money of USD 2 million per three-year competition cycle encourages and inspires achievements that go beyond convention, explore new ways and means, and draw attention to and identify excellence. The Awards competition is conducted in partnership with some of the worlds leading technical universities*

* The partner universities of the Holcim Foundation are the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology (ETH Zurich), Switzerland; Massachusetts Institute of Technology (MIT), Cambridge, USA; Tongji University, Shanghai, China; Universidad Iberoamericano (UIA), Mexico City, Mexico; and University of the Witwatersrand, Johannesburg, South Africa. The Universidade de So Paulo (USP), Brazil, is an associated university of the Holcim Foundation.

who lead the independent competition juries to evaluate entries according to the target issues for sustainable construction. www.holcimawards.org

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A series of symposiums for academia and practitioners to encourage discourse on the future of the built environment. The Holcim Forum supports sustainable construction in the scientific field, among experts in the construction sector, business and society. In addition to renowned specialists from around the world, promising international students from leading technical universities are invited, to represent the next generation and to share their visions. The first Holcim Forum was held at the Swiss Federal Institute of Technology (ETH Zurich), Switzerland, in 2004 under the theme Basic Needs. The second Holcim Forum was held in 2007 at Tongji University in Shanghai, China, under the theme Urban_Trans_Formation. www.holcimforum.org

Seed funding for building initiatives and grants for research projects to accelerate progress and promote sustainable construction. Within the framework of Holcim Projects the Holcim Foundation provides USD 1 million per threeyear cycle to support research in sustainable construction and the implementation of building projects. Projects nominated for seed funding are evaluated according to the target issues for sustainable construction, and must be endorsed by a local Holcim Group company. The Holcim Foundation acts as an enabler for both research projects and building initiatives so that, whatever their origin, exciting and important new ideas can be more widely implemented and tested by a broader audience of specialists. www.holcimgrants.org
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Technical data

Site statistics:

Location: Thulhiriya, Sri Lanka Climate: tropical, humid Terrain: rolling, moderately sloped Area: 52,434 m2 Setting: rural industrial park Parking: 10 spaces for vehicles and 25 for bicycles

Building statistics:

Construction period: September 2007 to April 2008 Building type: clothing factory Building volume: 48,486 m3 Maximum number of occupants: 1,300 Gross usable floor area: 7,854 m2 Number of finished floors: 2 Number of basements: 0 Construction: concrete and steel framing; compressed stabilized earth block (CSEB) exterior walls; zinc-aluminum roofing and green roofs Construction cost: USD 2.66 million (338.50 USD/m2) Construction cost of typical factories in Sri Lanka: 308 USD/m2 Annual operating cost: 0.3 USD/m2 Annual operating cost of comparable factories in Sri Lanka: 1.61 USD/m2

Holcim (Lanka) Ltd 413 R.A.de Mel Mawatha Colombo 3, Sri Lanka Phone +94 11 7800 800 Fax +94 11 2555 435 www.holcim.lk

2008 by Holcim (Lanka) Ltd, Colombo, Sri Lanka

Holcim (Lanka) Ltd 413 R.A.de Mel Mawatha Colombo 3, Sri Lanka Phone +94 11 7800 800 Fax +94 11 2555 435 www.holcim.lk