What To Wear
Issue 2 Oct 05
INTRODUCTION Contents
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Introduction The Lounge Suit Jacket and Tie Casual Dress Formal Evening Dress Dress Guide by Function Official Reception/Annual Cocktail Party Graduation Day General Dress Suggested Retailers Frequently Asked Questions Mess Rules
INTRODUCTION
Introduction
This booklet has been written to give you practical guidance during the initial phase of your new career in the Royal Air Force, whether you have joined from civilian life or from non-commissioned service. It has been designed to help you resolve that ever-pressing question: What should I wear? All professions have a code of conduct, set of rules and a standard of dress. As an officer in the Royal Air Force, your superiors and subordinates will expect you to be suitably dressed, in order to uphold the standards of the Service, and to set an example to others. Whether you are in or out of the Service environment, you represent the Royal Air Force and will be expected to dress accordingly. As a junior officer you will be living in an officers mess and your attire should not cause offence to other officers using the Mess. You will also be invited to attend all ranks functions. You should always avoid the temptation to slip to the lowest common denominator i.e. trainers and jeans thinking that you will fit in better. The characteristic dress of an officer falls within well chosen limits; the purchase of appropriate, good quality clothes is a must. Building up a good wardrobe can prove to be expensive, but if planned and spread over a period of time, the cost will not be prohibitive. However, in todays relaxed lifestyle, it is often difficult to decide what to wear for different events and functions. As you progress through Initial Officer Training, you will attend many different training functions, each designed to teach you the etiquette and standards required of a junior officer. The type of function will determine the dress code expected, from a less formal quiz night in the Mess to the more formal dinner or reception. Although standards of dress still need to conform to the ethos of a military service and be of the highest quality, it is possible to adopt an up-to-date look that meets this standard. Extremes of fashion should always be avoided, but by following the advice in this booklet, there is no reason why you cannot achieve a modern style, which will not be out of place in society today. You will need to understand both the male and female dress codes so that you can brief your partners and guests when they attend functions in an officers mess with you, as they will also need to conform to the same dress rules. We have also listed the civilian equivalent for your guests for those occasions when you are likely to be wearing uniform. When you leave Cranwell and visit another Mess, you will also need to read Mess Rules to see if there are any particular requirements for that Mess.
Female
Female lounge suits should be the equivalent quality and style to that of the male lounge suit with the exception that a skirt may be worn instead of trousers. If trousers are worn they should be straight legged and fall on the ankle. Skirts should be straight and finish at about the knee, but above mid-calf. Both jacket and skirt/trousers should be of the same material and colour, and the jacket should only ever be long sleeved. A shirt with a collar, or fitted tailored top, must be worn (tee-shirts and vest tops are unacceptable). Shirts and tops must not expose the stomach or cleavage, and underwear should not be visible through the shirt/top. A smartly fitting dress may also be worn. Closed toe shoes that complement the suit, with tights/stockings or pop socks, should be worn. Hair can be worn down if desired, and with an inconspicuous use of styling products, but it should still look neat and tidy.
Acceptable
Acceptable
Note the length of this skirt; at about knee length, this is acceptable.
Acceptable
Unacceptable
This would be acceptable for a more informal jacket and tie function but unacceptable at a function where a Lounge Suit is required.
INTRODUCTION
Unacceptable
This is a good suit for a Mess function; however, the shirt should be lighter in colour.
Female
Everybody knows what a lounge suit is, and one accepts from that dress code that the occasion will be fairly formal; therefore, ladies are rarely in any doubt what to wear when gentlemen wear a suit. However, not all functions during your training will be so formal; the words jacket and tie/female equivalent appear often on invitations to functions at Cranwell, so it is worth exploring what this actually means. Usually, ladies elect to wear a tailored jacket, with a complementing, but not matching, skirt; sometimes trousers are worn in lieu of the skirt. Some rules for you to follow: Skirts should be about knee length or a long skirt is also appropriate, but mini or micro skirts are not suitable. Trousers should be tailored, straight-legged, and fall on the ankle. The skirt or trousers should be a different colour to the jacket. A blazer may be worn if desired. A collared shirt or tailored top, which does not expose the stomach or cleavage, should be worn under the jacket. Shoes should complement the outfit and be closed toe. Tights/stockings or pop socks should be worn. If attending an outdoor event, smart leather boots may be worn. However, boots should never be worn with a skirt at an evening function. A small, feminine leather handbag may be carried if necessary.
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Acceptable
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Acceptable
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Unacceptable
This is acceptable wear for an informal sports function; however, the cords are a little too casual for a formal jacket and tie function. A pair of trousers, in a light grey or beige, would make this outfit suitable for an informal Mess function.
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Unacceptable
The trousers in this outfit are also too casual for jacket and tie dress.
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Casual Dress
Casual dress may be worn in the Mess before 1900, and on weekends, depending on Mess Rules. It is the minimum dress standard expected of an officer when out of uniform. Denim jeans and tee-shirts are considered unacceptable, as they are too scruffy. Jeans can be worn in many officers messes at the weekend, but check the Mess Rules; it is better to be over-dressed than assume. If acceptable, they should be smart and clean; fashion styles should be avoided, and torn or frayed jeans are never to be worn. You will feel comfortable in the Mess environment if you follow these simple rules: Trousers should be styled more like trousers from a suit than jeans-style trousers (which may have patch pockets and rivets). Boot-cut trousers are not appropriate, and should not be worn. Your shirt should always have a collar. For example, a polo shirt is adequate, as is a long-sleeved shirt, but a tee-shirt is never appropriate. Your shirt should always be tucked into your trousers, which will be worn with a belt. Training shoes should never be worn in the Mess, and this rule includes trainer-style shoes.
Planters Male
Planters is a form of relaxed dress that was popular in the 19th Century in the rubber, tea and coffee plantations in the tropics where it was too hot to wear a jacket. The idea was introduced more recently to officers messes in the UK for the warmer summer months. Put simply, it is jacket and tie, but without the jacket! Your trousers should still be well cut, but the fabric may be cotton, in the style of chinos. Your choice of footwear should still be smart, but the informal loafer would be acceptable with planters. Sometimes, depending on mess rules, a polo shirt may be worn instead of a shirt and tie.
Female
A skirt or tailored trousers may be worn. Skirts should be about knee-length or a long skirt may be appropriate. A shirt, or a tailored top, may be worn without a jacket. In cold weather, a knitted top or cardigan can be worn if desired. Tee-shirts and vest tops are unacceptable. Closed-toe shoes should be worn with a skirt, and boots may be worn with trousers. Hair should be neat and tidy, and accessories should be small and unobtrusive.
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Acceptable
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Acceptable
This is an example of Summer Planters, and this is acceptable dress before 1900 in the mess. However, the trousers should be taken up by several inches to be acceptable!
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Acceptable
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Unacceptable
At first glance, this looks acceptable wear for the Planters dress code; however, the trousers are actually jeans. The rivets on the pockets let the trousers down, and this jeans-style pair of trousers is not appropriate whilst at Cranwell.
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Unacceptable
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This is not appropriate as the models stomach is showing. Her top is also too low cut. However, this blouse and trousers would be acceptable if the buttons were fastened at the bottom and top of the shirt.
Unacceptable
This skirt is too short, and the model has too many buttons unfastened on the blouse. If a button was fastened on the blouse, the blouse would be acceptable.
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Unacceptable
This is far too casual for mess wear; training shoes, including fashion trainers, should never be worn in the mess, and your shirt should always have a collar.
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Female
Females should wear a full length dress of ankle length or lower and shoulders should be covered. At most functions shoulders may be uncovered after the meal, so for those dresses that have bare shoulders a shawl/pashmina or bolero jacket should be worn, both prior to, and during the meal. Typical ball dresses are permitted; however, it is also acceptable to wear a full-length evening dress. A 2-piece evening outfit can also be worn if desired, but it should be in keeping with the elegance of the evening. Large splits or tight fitting clothing are inappropriate. Strappy, heeled sandals are permitted without tights or stockings. Hair and accessories should complement the outfit.
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Acceptable
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Acceptable
This dress is suitable for a Summer Ball, or for after dinner at a Christmas Draw (not before dinner, as the shoulders are bare).
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Unacceptable
This dress would be suitable for a Cocktail Party, but it is too short for a Summer Ball or a Christmas Draw.
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Male/Female equivalent N/A N/A N/A N/A N/A Jacket & Tie/female equivalent N/A N/A Lounge Suit Mess Dress or Formal dress In accordance with Mess Rules depending on the time of day (smart casual or jacket & tie)
Given the number of functions you will attend, you will need the following basic wardrobe:
Male
Formal, dark coloured lounge suit. Blazer and trousers and/or a sports jacket and trousers. Black leather, lace-up shoes. Minimum of 3 long-sleeved shirts. Ties and socks to go with each outfit.
Female
Formal, dark coloured lounge suit. Blazer or jacket, and skirt or trousers. Leather shoes, closed toe. Minimum of 3 long-sleeved blouses Knitted top to go under jacket or blazer. Tights, stockings or pop socks (neutral and barely black).
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Female
Ladies should wear a smart dress which falls between knee and calf length. The dress should be plain in style and not expose the stomach or too much cleavage, and it should cover the shoulders. An evening trouser suit or evening trousers and top (not shirt or blouse), may be worn as an alternative, following the same guidelines. Tights/ stockings should be worn if wearing closed-toe shoes. If wearing strappy, heeled sandals, bare legs are permitted. Large splits or tight fitting clothes are to be avoided.
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Acceptable
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Acceptable
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Acceptable
This is a suitable dress; it is the correct length (below the knee) and has the shoulders covered by a shawl.
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Unacceptable
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This dress is far too short for a cocktail party; dresses or skirts should fall below the knee, but above the ankle. Having bra straps that are visible is unacceptable, whatever the occasion. Furthermore, the model should also have her shoulders covered.
Graduation Day
The Graduation Parade and Service of Dedication is a unique occasion reviewed by a member of the Royal Family or a VIP The ceremonies are followed by a formal lunch in . College Hall Officers Mess which has a specific dress code therefore all guests are invited to dress appropriately. Uniform is only to be worn by the Reviewing Officers party and RAF College staff officers (including the graduating officers). For those guests unfamiliar with service ceremonies, the dress code is very similar to that of a smart wedding, so typical dress for gentlemen is a dark lounge suit, and dress for ladies is slightly more dressy; hats are encouraged.
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Acceptable
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Acceptable
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Too Long
Too Short
Just Right
Socks
Plain, dark-coloured socks are best with a formal outfit; fashion socks, or brightly coloured designs are discouraged. Socks should complement the suit and the shoes; therefore, white socks will never be acceptable with anything other than sportswear.
Care of Clothing
If you take good care of your clothes you will double their useful life. You can significantly prolong their life by using the correct type of coat hanger (shaped wood for jackets), shoes trees, and by ensuring that your clothes are brushed, sponged and pressed regularly. You will get plenty of practice in ironing and pressing your uniforms, so keeping your civilian clothes neat will become second nature! Stained clothes should be sent to the dry cleaners as soon as possible, and shoes should always be put away clean.
Female Shoes
For females, wedge or platform heels should not be worn, and heels should not be too high. Shoes should be of superior quality and closed-toe, unless worn with a cocktail or ball dress (see previous guidance), and complement the outfit.
Shirt
Female shirts/blouses should be plain in style and colour, and not include too much detail.
Tights
When worn with uniform, tights should be barely black. In civilian attire a more neutral shade may be appropriate with a skirt or dress; patterned and orange-coloured tights should be avoided.
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Make-up
Make-up is acceptable with any civilian outfit, but it should not be too garish in colour or style. Neutral shades should be worn that complement skin type and colour, and fashion make-up should be avoided. Painted toe-nails in subtle colours are acceptable in cocktail and ball dresses.
Jewellery
Female officers, and cadets, are allowed to wear one pair of single stud gold earrings when in uniform (but not in field kit, and never when on parade); normal earrings may be worn when in civilian attire (one earring in each ear). No other form of body piercing is acceptable, and could be dangerous when you consider the activities you undertake during training. All serving officers, and cadets, may wear engagement, wedding or plain signet rings when in uniform, but any more than 2 rings would be unacceptable, and rings should never be worn on the thumb. As a general rule, accessories should be simple and complement the outfit.
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Suggested Retailers
While many retailers offer quality clothing of a good standard, most of the retailers listed below offer a generous discount to military personnel, and their products are of a superior quality, yet still good value:
T M Lewin (Shirtmakers).
Lewins shirts offer exceptional value for money as they are a top quality Jermyn Street shirt maker and offer their shirts (normally 6070) for 27 to military personnel. Their suits are superb quality, and very good value, reduced from 500 to 225 for military personnel. Visit www.tmlewin.co.uk for full details, or see them at the Freshers Fair during your first week at Cranwell.
Hackett.
Hackett formal wear, suits, jackets and shoes are very good quality, and they also offer a 10% discount to personnel of the Armed Forces. Visit www.hackett.co.uk for more details.
Costello
Civil & Military Tailor 284 Ley Street, Illford Essex www.costello.co.uk
G D Golding
Civil & Military Tailor 220 Hatfield Road, St Albans, Herts 183 London Road, Camberley Tel: 01727 841321 www.tailors.co.uk A suit and shirt from T M Lewin
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Charles Tyrwhitt
Good quality clothing at very reasonable prices; good military discount applies. www.ctshirts.co.uk
Cordings
Very good, traditional outfitters. Their suits are legendary for their quality and longevity. www.cordings.co.uk
Austin Reed
Decent quality casual wear, and very good value. www.austinreed.co.uk
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Mess Rules
Mess Rules act as a code of conduct for members and guests in any Mess. They cover areas such as dress, etiquette, social conduct and any local rules that everyone should follow. They can normally only be changed by the President of the Mess Committee (PMC) or Stn Cdr. Most Messes follow a simple traffic light system, indicating the type of dress code permitted. A green light will indicate a more relaxed dress standard is in force, for example planters or smart casual, dependant on Mess Rules. A red light will indicate that more formal dress should be worn, usually a lounge suit or equivalent for ladies. This will normally be enforced when a VIP or dignitary is visiting the Mess or station. Mess Rules normally apply within all public rooms in the Mess, for example the dining room, bar and ante-rooms. Domestic areas and corridors are normally considered non-public rooms, and therefore are not subject to the dress regulations. It is always a good idea to fully acquaint yourself with the rules of a Mess before visiting, to avoid any embarrassment. If you telephone the Mess reception, they should be able to tell you the minimum standards expected, so that you do not get caught out! Although, this booklet offers solid advice on dress standards for all junior officers, you should ensure that you read and follow Mess Rules for any Mess that you visit in the future.
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Notes
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RAFC/GRAPHICS/33.293