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Falcon 3D Service Manual V4

Welcome to the user created and contributed Falcon3D Service Manual. If you are a new owner you should refer first to the Falcon 3D Before You Fly FYI manual, most likely found close to where you found this. (Not compiled yet). The home base coffee shop, so to say, where all of this information and associated material links grew from is RC Groups Forums. Follow the following link to join in and meet the ever growing Owners and knowledge base. Falcon 3D Bird of Play Owners Plus

Keep in mind that some of the parts and products in this manual may offer many options. It is up to you to decide which item is best for you. Also we have found that some parts are not available in every country. This manual works best if you use the document map located to your left as an index. Just click the header and you go there, and or click the + to expand the subtopics. Its like magic. If it is not turned on for some reason, you will find it located under view at the top. By sitting there with your mouth a gape and tongue flopped out on the keyboard looking at all the information now at your finger tips, while your wife thinks you have found another porn site, you agree to the inability to close this document license agreement and vow to read, understand and carryout all necessary repairs to stop needless destruction of your toy, or at least become skilled enough to hide the damage.

CAUTION: Read the entire subject!! Before you pick up the wrench!!
In some cases there are two or more write-ups by different persons, so please read the whole section before you start.
I'm going to include some Safety Tips and numbers. We'll start by saying WARNING ROTOR BLADES TRAVELING AT HIGH SPEED!!! The main blades of even a micro or mini travel at a very high velocity. I know of a story where some guys dog ran up on a hovering heli and neatly chopped off the top of the dogs skull! So fingers, hands etc. will be no issue. Respect the forces working with your harmless little toy. Lets do the math. . . A 25.5 inch main blade assembly will travel at 25.5 X 3.14 (circumference value) at 80.1 inches per revolution, the Falcons motors head speed is around 2200, So 80.1 X 2200 = 176.1 inches traveled in just one minute. In one Hour that rotor tip will travel

10,569,240 inches, thats 1,047,200 feet per hour, divided by the distance in mile, thats close to 200 MPH!!! So Please RESPECT the rotor blades till they come to a complete stop! Thank you and enjoy your tour. Obiron Be careful and cautious. It is easy to get turned around and have a bad day. All of us do it, and here is a video link to show you what could happen. Ahhh Thanks Jared. Be careful all, and bring her home in as much of one piece as possible!!

Cut directly from forum, just a little pat on the back for all of you guys from one of our new guys, now a regular. HA! We roped him didnt we!!!
WOW! It took me 20 days since I first posted asking about tail servo behaviour but I finally finished reading this thread! I have learned so much! First an update: My Falcon has about 25 batteries through it so far and zero crashes! That's right. I checked and adjusted everything as recommended by the thread gurus and it has been smoooth sailing all the way. You guys are awesome! I can now hover anywhere from inches of the ground to 20-30 feet up. I can do some forward flight but I'm still gun shy about side or nose-in flying so I back it up to bring it back It looks funny but it works. Every question I've had has been answered by reading the thread except for one: My ESC has a male JST connector hanging from it. Does anyone know what this is for? Not that it matters but it is the last question left on my list.

Well it was a very Long story You had to Read to end up here! Thank You for or in behalf of everyone on this thread. Yes I can answer that, . . . nothing. It was mentioned in the original Jim Young review from the Hobby Lobby, said "just tuck it away". It looks to be a type of BEC connector. These helis come in 3 formats, and several other names in many other Countrys, some packages are A.R.F.s or almost ready to fly, the standard version with a 30 amp ESC utilizing Nickel metal Batterys that could have used the connector. Ours from Hobby Lobby, are the Deluxe version. The ESC Is probably useing a circuit piece or harness common to both Models. So easy, for Us

Falcon Info
The Falcon is considered a Mini. It's a "400" size, swinging 300 to 315 mil blades, with a weight of 20 oz/ or so, this makes it a mini. A "Sabre", Hummingbird etc, would qualify as a "Micro", because of 300 to 370 motors, and far less weight. .

Tips and other helpful items.

If you have a digital camera, take pictures. Use them to help put it back together or post them in the forum so others can see what youre talking about.

Go slow and take your time. Check and repair issues the first time, as the cost and downtime when you crash will get you down quick. Half the fun is tinkering with the little buggers and it really makes the difference when she flys straight and works after you put in that extra time and care. Screws and other hardware for spare parts? Strip out that old broken CD player or kids toys. They have the same type screws and such. Most are likely to be metric too. Otherwise when youre at your local Hobby shop, look through other combine packages of hardware. Doesnt matter who makes it or what it is for. If it has a bunch of screws bushings and the like, youll most likely find a use for them at some point. I want I wantlol Its all good, BUT A lot of parts fit, most parts dont, unless you overhaul the whole thing. The Falcons main shaft is longer than the Zoom 400 and Shogun by at least 5 mils the cut out area for collective therefore is in a slightly different spot. So plug & play may not work. You can modify just about anything though might be more work and money. The falcon flies well on stock parts, many of the guys on the thread seam to think as well if not better. Aluminum parts arent cheap. One mistake can mean disaster as we all experienced. The aluminum parts arent going to help you fly better, nor the craft. Experience on the simulators and real stick time is the only cure. Save a bit, practice some more, than decide. I have personally been giving Helis from owners too distraught to continue in the hobby. Most were filled with their personalized bling blings. Though they left out what they really needed. Gyros are the heart of the heli, never penny pinch on their cost. Cheap servos mean poor response time (slower speeds) meaning SLOP, not the little z bend wire. I flew all day once with my tail rotor control arm wired to the end of the control rod cup. No one knew but me. My ball had fallen off, and I wanted to fly. Hope this gives you some in sight.

Here a part there a part: Screws and bearings.

Good hex head screws for Falcon can be ordered from Link to Boca bearing helicopter ceramics These are a ceramic upgrade, and will work in the head set and on the tail drive shaft. These will work also, but are of lesser quality. These will work for the main shaft. Pitch gauge

All of the bearing sizes are posted in Hobby-Lobby's parts list. Boca Bearing is very good at shipping - if you order from them the bearings will probably be to you before the rest of your parts. FYI, compiled list of most common parts to stock up on, if you can. Spare parts from (except where noted) 6007 - spindle shaft (get these 6008 - Tail rotor hub and shaft 6011 - Tail rotor blades 6018 - Tailfin set 6022 - Tail boom (depending on your skill level, you may need a few of these. Your options are to pay $13.40 or $11.48 from above; or, to get Easton 2213 xx75 arrow shafts. I just ordered a dozen Easton 2213 Platinum Plus shafts for $43.95, and I can cut two booms from each shaft. To-date I have replaced four booms, so obviously I should have done this from the beginning. 6023 - Tail drive shaft (you may need a few of these) 6029 - Tailboom reinforcement struts 6030 - Bearings 8x3x4mm, 4 (I get all my bearings here ) 6031 - Main rotor shaft (you may need a few of these) 6032 - Flybar (a few of these) 6037 - Tail pushrod 6049 - Tail gearbox assembly Main Blades - reasonably priced main blades are a bit of a problem because they're an odd size at 300mm. I've been using these $10 290's and they work fine. They are heavier and stiffer than the stock, so I think they do contribute to bending more main shafts when crashing. Other guys have been going for 315's, but I find they contact the tail blades on hard landings, contributing to tail problems. Choose your own compromise.

Stock battery
So, the manual specifies 2.5 Hrs or so, but really truly, you won't really ever know. I've had these toys for years; some chargers do it in specified requirements while others simply Wont. Not the answer you really wanted to hear. Most of the time the trickle type chargers can very so much and with a LiPo their current is minimal so as with NiCad Nimh etc. you could feel the warmth. I'd say play it safe, minding it's the 1st charge, though from memory I believe that mine as well as others shipped at a reasonable level to begin with. So your 2nd charge is the one you need on the longer. The falcon in the UK is shipped with an 1800 LiPo as standard.

The stock inclusive charger takes too long and no way to neither peak charge nor check balance, though its a wonderful gratuity supplied for those who can't afford a better charger. If Your LHS can't order for you I'm pretty sure theyll be able to advise from there. Another charger very similar to what I use and equally priced is called the ICE charger, I think its made/distributed by "Dura Trax". I know from speaking with others around the globe how difficult it seems for LHS's to order from over seas, what less the extensive costs involved.

The stock battery from Hobby Lobbys Falcon is 1300 mah using a type S3 balancer plug in order black, yellow, blue, and red, viewed from top of plug. Same as electiflys stuff. You need this adapter for Cellpro 4s and Falcon LiPo, PN: CP-GP Technically the mah shouldnt provide any additional RPM's, though depending on the C rating I've gotten additional head speed. This I believe was only slight and a grand difference in Cs. If your motor is pulling say 18 amps at 11.1 to 12.4 volts, with a battery kicking out a C of 7.5 maximum discharge, you'll notice a very tired battery with a lower head speed because you just stuck a governor on her. On the other hand, back to back, if your new/used battery is putting in say a 23C rate with the same voltage comparison, You'd have a bit of extra head speed because the battery has more to give than the motor needs. The batteries usually want to drop, or that is a marked, or very noticeable feel and sound (RPMs) by about 9.5 0 to 10.0 volt. Just remember if you take them past 3.0 volts a piece ( or per your 3 cell at 9.0 volts) You can either destroy the cells or cost it life, meaning instead of several hundred charges till replacement, you could get far fewer. In regards to the transmitter charging issue, Ive done it as well, just so you dont feel left out of the life boat. There is residual voltage circulating in the TX while charging it. In addition, the wires and solder points used inside the TX aren't sufficient gauge to handle such heavy amperage. Thats why they include a low amp trickle charger with the radio systems. Another is a no brainier. Newbies, walking away from a charger and battery. Thats a bad thing sometimes. Right guys? Ill say that once I personally saw a TX go up in smoke. Ive taken the TX battery out at the field to charge it, simply. At home though, Ill still line everything up on several trickles to get the job done automatically while I sleep. Just having to check voltage readings in the morning. Although J.R.s fuse idea stopped all of their problems quickly, too much amperage or short out and the fuse blows protecting the motherboard. Futabas been around since Dougie & the Flintstones and no fuse, so from now on just pop em out to quick charge. Actually, as you may already know, NiCads can go safely to 2.5 times the C rating, Nimh can go 1.5 times safely as well. The gent from Ripmax mentioned most LiPos can be safely charged at 1.25 the C rate. My Triton, with special charging adapters and LiPos will accept 2 to 2.5 the C rate for charge. That is ONLY on the NEWER LIPO

BATTERYS GUYS. Attempting to throw that much into the stock Battery will cause fire!

I do agree with previous remarks regarding either Castle Creations or the Jeti brands, both are reputable companies, producing quality products. And I can't help myself, I love watching those little switchboard lights as well! I own a Triton and have two of the balancers (one's balancing while the others hooked up to the charger). But I got to tell Ya, sometimes it's so nice just squirting in 8 oz's of nitro and zoom zoom zoom! LiPo's don't have that kind of memory mate! I can tell you I found an original hand made Thunder Power battery, very big here, as well as used by the professionals, that I received over 5 years ago, Its a 2 cell hand written on the side was, charge at 7.4 volts 4 amps. I hadnt seen what remembered that battery till a week ago. When I threw it on my Triton it charged for 45 minutes at 2.5 amp's checking full at 8.42 volts afterwards. Point is theyll hold a charge for years, without worries as to memory topped. You will however kill it if she drops too low in flight. This normally isnt an issue with helis because they want to land before the drop to death counts. It is an issue with planes and cars because of physics, cars will roll till battery discharges, planes can thermal or glide, thats why theres voltage meter/alarms to bring to your attention. A 5000 mill battery would probably be far too large for the Falcon, even Thunder Power corp hasnt as to date been able to get that much into such a small package. Though several guys are effectively using 2100's from various manufactures. Some are small enough to fit nicely up front and inside the canopy, others are moving the ESC, and strapping the battery from underneath the carriage, if get My drift? For larger capacity batteries, either the Thunderpower Pro Lite 2100 mAh battery for $70, or the MegaPower 2100 for $40 will work. The MegaPower batteries are cheaper, but are larger and heavier, and are a very tight fit in the Falcon.

Looks like the OEM battery is 2.9"x1.35"x.8". At least this is what I measured on mine. The MegaPower 2100mah is 4"x1.35"x.8".

Triton 2 charger and the matching Equinox balancer. I actually have two of the balancers because you can use the Equinox without the charger to "quick balance" cells (equalizing their individual voltage) while charging/balancing with the other hooked to the Triton. The system also can "cycle" and discharge to a pre assigned voltage. The Equinox just happens to come with two separate size "S" plugs (those funny white computer looking things!) a 2S, and a "3S", which is the used on the Falcon 3D batteries. They have two additional plugs the 4S, and 5S to "complete" Your set for about $6.99. Meaning? You should be able to charge and balance just about anything.

The Triton charges Li-Ion, and Li-Po batteries, though It also charges Ni-Cd, NiMh, and lead acid as well! Another set offered for $20.00 which has the four different "S" plugs AND the Deans plug as well, all connected for You. Sooooo.. . . . This means while charging you not only plug in the "balancer S plug", but the Deans plug as well. 1-24 NiCd/MH (1.2-28.0V) 1-5 LiPo or Li-Ion (3.6-18.5V) 6, 12, 24V Pb (2V per cell) It Works!!! Really well! The charger was about $125.00, with the Equinox coming in at about $35.00. Thunder Powers has a new charging system with balancers/equalizers, but you may pay twice as much. The pro go this route, and Thunder Power stands behind their product. Other parts available for TX charging as well.

The CellPro 4S is one of the best deals in a charger currently. It's about $60 from It has a built-in cell balancer, an LED display which shows the current charge of the battery, and can display the voltage of each individual cell, works for 1 to 4 cell batteries, and automatically detects the voltage of the pack you're charging, and the correct amperage to charge at either 1C or 1.4C. See here for a review: . And no, I have nothing to do with the company, just a satisfied customer. I searched and searched for the best bang for my buck and came up with this, I have a hobby people store close by so I purchased the Gimp (I know it sound funny but it works great) charger and the equinox balancer all for $60.00 plus the connectors to make everything plug in to each other. My charge time for the stock battery is roughly 30-45 min. and it charges my 1450mah 23c impulse batteries in the same time frame. As for batteries try the thunder power 2100mah batteries for great fly time(10-20 minutes)

Alternate power source

To make a dc power supply using your computer supply, look at this page:

Push rods ball links

The following parts to replace the z-bend wires and thus remove lots of the slop in the linkages. The links are from Helidirect. If you at your local hobby shop you could compare size difference on other heli replacement packs. Most come with a lot of misc. screws and such that you can use. It also helps to build a screw collection. Look at the cars, planes everything. Aluminum Ball - Walkera 36 - HM-036-Z-07 Ball Linkage Set - Walkera 36 - HM-036-Z-06 3DX-400 Screw Bag If you use the fixed ball link to the blade grips, that come in the ball linkage set, note that the ends are different in size. The larger end goes to the blade grip.

Because I have replaced the adjustable Z-Bend linkages that connected the blade grips to the seesaw arms with non adjustable links, I now adjust my blade tracking with the new adjustable links that connect the seesaw arms to the washout arms. Yes, the fixed links that come in the package are the correct ones. Just be aware that there is a difference in the size of the opening. One end is 4.5mm and the other is 4mm. I think those are the correct values. Larger end goes on the blade grip. Ball link sizes Okay, in referencing your balls I saw some post on the bathroom walls and thought you need some guidance. And I just know that you do have some calipers for measuring your balls. T-Rex are 4.75mm. Falcon are 4.45mm Helimax Axe CP are 3.75 Walkera 36 are 4.00mm +/- 1mm

The Blue Loc-tite is fine for metal to plastic, and theres also green and red versions of the stuff you won't need for the Falcon. Green being a more tempered solution for metal on metal and the red is a heat release solution for even tougher applications I.E. industrial/mechanical or in our case, hobbies, (used on clutch plate assemblies for Nitro Helis) stuff that needs to be heated to melt or release its grip. Check or better said, pre flight check your heli EVERYTIME you fly! Even with loc-tite vibration can and will release its hold.

Red Green

Tail Section
Having a problem with the tail boom becoming loose where it is secured in the main frame with the tail boom mount, ATS6028? And when I say loose I am referring to the fact that it can and will rotate about 6 or 7 degrees either CCW and CW. This was happening on my Falcon when it was new after about 10 flights but I thought I had tightened all five screws much better. And for the next 30 or so flights it was pretty good, or so I thought. When I took it apart after the mishap, I noticed the center screw hole looked more like an ellipse than a circle. That hole was large enough that I could put two 2mm screws in it. So there must be some high frequency vibration happening there that is not noticeable to the eye. New tail boom and new tail boom mount. Carefully drilled pilot hole and the center screw tightened just right. Didn't check the torque I applied with my micro torque wrench but next time I will. Anyway, voila, after ten flights it still looked good, or so I thought. Was doing some maintenance last night and noticed the darned thing is again loose. This time it can only be rotated about 4.8 degrees either CCW and CW. Okay, I took it apart again and this time shimmed the tail boom mount with some 3M transparent tape, tightened everything down again and now waiting for the rain to let up so I can run some more batteries through it and see what happens. Mine did that shortly after I got it. I wrapped one band of scotch tape around it and never had trouble since. Replaced a few booms since then, but the first thing I do is put on the tape

Boom replacement procedures:

I slide the bearing to the centre of the shaft then put a drop of CA on the end of a pin then touch it to the shaft, bearing joint. The drop on the pin is so as not to get CA in the bearing. I CA the end bearings to the shaft too. Slide the shaft in the tube and centre the bearings the same distance from the ends of the tube. Centre punch the ends of the tube so the bearings can't move endways. Ive replaced about three of them this way so far. There are other methods but this works for me. Never had much luck using the dimpling method so I just used a drop of CA glue to hold the bearings. Doing the dimple thing seemed to distort the bearing cases. But then that may just be me and my luck. Or the 5lbs sledge hammer he was using! Lol. As for the center bearing, I drilled a 1/32nd hole in the exact center of the boom then made sure the center bearing was exactly in the center of the drive shaft. On the center bearing on the drive shaft, I placed a little bit of CA so the bearing would stay tight on the shaft and remain in place. It took me a couple of tries but then I had it in place and used another drop of CA in the hole drill in boom to make sure it stayed. Put the last bearing in place and then the gears.

Tail boom option

Tail Boom: Easton Arrows (archers' arrows, think Robin Hood) model 2213 xx75 or XX78 (xx78 is a harder aluminum but the xx75 works great and is harder than OEM shaft) ...The first number 22, is the OD. in 64th of an inch -- 22/64 = .343 inch. ...Second number is wall thickness in thousands of an inch, in our case we want 13 .013 inch ...Thus .343 minus wall .026 = .317 or 8mm. The xx is arrow length and 75 or whatever is the hardness of the metal. Arrows should be around $6 each and you should be able to get two booms from one arrow. Reportedly available from Wal-Mart. Cut 14 and 1/4 inches in length. OK for all those asking about tail boom sizes and arrow shafts, I took the plunge and am glad I did. The arrow shaft is much straighter and harder than the original. size 2213 Easton xx75, exactly the same dimensions as the original ( apart from length ) . I now have enough material for 8 tail booms for the price of 1 1/2 , ok one of them will have Easton written on but what the heck, they don't last me long anyway !!!!

Also as a side FYI, in a previous conversation I'd had with someone regarding the poor quality batch of the tail rotor shafts produced for our Falcons, I suggested purchasing Hobby Peoples Shoguns V-2 shafts. I was informed that they wouldnt work because they didnt have the needed splines to retain and hold the gear, as well as the wrong diameter. Folks, I'm here to say they do have the needed splines, and come in a package with three. Yes three, shafts (one with the pulley already installed), just pull it off. And yes, I know

the Shogun V-2 is a belt drive system, though have faith, their product number is #165185, being referenced as a tail output pulley Shogun V-2 only. The shafts that won't work are for the original Shogun 400. These shafts are hexed brass and won't fill our needs. The cost per package is $4.99, making them a deal. They ARE the same dimensions. Hope this helps out in Our time of need, until Hobby Lobby resolves their issues.

Tail blade grips

A wise precaution; Remove the tail rotor blades, then remove the 3mm hex head screws that secure the tail rotor blade grips to the tail rotor hub. Clean the threads and then use some blue Lock-tite on the screws and reassemble. Don't go overboard with the Lock-tite but use just enough to cover the end of the treads. Also dont over torque the screws so not to weaken them. To insure locking the hub to the tail shaft, if you are so inclined. Take a small barrel grinding stone that typically come with dremels and put two opposing flat spots on the end of the shaft for the lock screws to grab. Only about a centimeter in from the end so not to interfere with the pitch slider.

You need a postage type scale to weigh in the blades equally, hence both blades at 3 grams exact etc. Than yes you would add tape for micros, (at the outside tip of the lightest blade for example). With most Woodys there close and the metal rods at their tips, sometimes with clear coating youre able to see. So move on to the CG balance. Take the blades off and screw them together opposing each other. The screw needs to be long enough so you can rest it on a smooth parallel surface so that it can roll to the heavy blade. Apply tape as needed to the liter blade. Note the picture, the right blade is heavy.

Blades 101
Actually the covering or monokote, and yes, shrink wrap all really do something. So lets start here, 1st. The covering does matter, especially with the bigger stuff. 2nd, most wood blades or fondly put woodies are designed from two cuts of wood, the leading edge is usually cut from spruce or bass wood making it just a little tougher than what the majority of the blade is designed around, balsa wood which is very light because of its porous nature, this also making them flimsy and lacking substance. The two need the 3rd which IS the coating over the blades, without it the two will separate, end of story. In the case of the Align blades everyones talking about they paint/dip coat a polymer paint over the whole thing. The little plastic blades for fixed pitch generally black in color is a carbon fiber/poly blend composite. Just like the black master air screw props for model airplanes. The light gray in color the same as above with talc added, leaving the product brittle and tempered (wont flex). The solid white blades that are chopper killers are made of a vinyl/poly blend laced with fiber glass; hence after a crash the blades are the only thing worth taking home. (But you knew this one right)? And yes lastly are the hollow fill Dixie cup type (shogun standards), the will break away clean, generally saving rest of heli! They are supported by a fiberglass rod running inside the blade. So there you go. Well, I had redone all my head pieces and made sure to properly apply tread lock. I also took my wood blades and put a 4x3.7mm brass tube in the blades roots so the bolt was not riding on wood. Wood blades are made to blow like that or should save you more severe damage on the heli by absorbing the impact so to speak. Remember those little blades are traveling up to 200 MPH at their tips! If Hobby Lobbys out on the Blade grips The replacements would be hobby peoples Sho-gun or Towers Hobbies helimax 400 grips, both will fit without mods. Remember to use matching grips, (both sides) as to keep everything in good form, balance, you must have balance young grasshopper.

Head Assembly

90 Degrees thats pretty square, not hip at all.

Everything should be at almost a perfect 90 degree angle on helis, Im thinking me there, him here, . . . .whereas IT??? When You need them, never mind we'll not have the need! Starting from your swashplate; Do you know what and where a swashplate is 1st? Tell me in a bit, starting there. The swash plate when turned on, or manually for right now, (just gently push/pull/tug/whatever) just as not to strip tiny nylon gearing inside, make the swashplate at even standards with ground looking cyclic left/right and nose/pitch or elevator on even keel as well. Now look... Somethings happening geometrically . . . do you see all of the 90 degree angles that developed from swashplate ball & cups but with the connecting rods leading off and from them?. . .and more 90 degree angles pitching off from everywhere??? awaiting reply

Mainshaft removal
To remove a bent or broken shaft 1st remove main blades, (Most likely broken). Look at the bottom where shaft exits frame, you'll notice a little wire going through the collective arm with a little silver retaining piece (actually bearing) with a 1.5mm set screw. Loosen the set screw while holding the collet from opposite side with pliers. Hold the wire with pliers and spin the head assembly to unscrew that wire from the collective assy above, (Actually a little nylon piece inside orienting sheet, as they call it) the wire will fall out the bottom. Gently push nylon retaining piece out through side of shaft with a small flat head screw driver, tooth pick, what ever is handy. Then disconnect the ball links from the swashplate. Look at the top of the head piece, you'll see screws holding the flybar/seesaw arm and just below is the screw and nut you'll remove, that allows the head to be removed, fly bar and all taking the collective Assy with it. Down on the shaft you'll see a silver collar just below and above the main drive gear. There are set screws on both sides of every piece so don't miss any of them. Gently (with great force HA) pull the shaft up through the gear, frame and swashplate. Replace new shaft in same or reversed order. It may help pulling the shaft out, if you put a small screwdriver or something through the slot in the shaft where that little nylon piece was. Use it like a T-handle. Shogun main shafts are shorter than the OEM Falcon main shaft and therefore, everything does not work. Because the Shogun shaft is shorter the collective slider is positioned lower and the washout pieces do not work correctly.

Collective setup:
I would suggest disconnecting the motor or using the RX battery instead of ESC and perform collective pitch tune up in 3D mode. I did it this way (put PIT at 10 and PLT at 1, as per Art-tech docs). 1) Disconnect the z-bend/ball link from servo to collective arm. 2) Make sure the servo is at 90 degree when you have 50% throttle in 3D mode (dont forget to disconnect motor or ESC). Make servo horn adjustment as needed. 3) Check the servo movement. The throw should be +/- 40-45 degree up and down. 4) Move it to the center again

5) Unscrew collective wire screw from collar to let the wire move freely. 6) Make sure your collective arm is parallel to servo horn by adjusting the z-band/ball link. 7) Move collective wire up and down to insure there is no binding. 8) Find the center of movement and fix the collective wire at that position. 9) Check if servo can move wire full throw without binding. 10) Use the blades z-bend/ball links to set the blades at 0 pitch when you are at 50% throttle in 3D mode. Check both blades but you have to be sure both blades are at 0 pitch. (And by the way, the ball links are directional, you cannot turn for half a turn, it always should be 360 degree turn). 10) check you pitch at the end points 0 and 100% throttle.

Trex spindles are identical. Four in a package for 10 bucks. Align part # is AGNH 1116. I think they're stronger too. I'm having a heck of a time trying to bend one. The heli-max axe cp spindle shaft works great! Same size just about 1mm too long so I added an extra o-ring and fits like a glove. I dont think the metal is of the same quality but at $3.50 Part #165144 spindle shaft for the shogun is, how can I say this. It works much, much, better than OUR stock shaft. 1st it's $2.99 American, 2nd its solid, oh yea, no dumb side mount as well. Same set up no mod needed, what holds everything together is two 3 mill Dubro LOCK NUTS!!!! Soooooo Easy. They will bend so not likely to destroy everything when you crash. If you crash, we would like some parts to fail, as not to destroy, warp and mangle everything throughout the Chopper. Kind of like the way new cars are made for collision/impact absorbing designs and materials, to save lives (inside the vehicle). These shafts are tough, though WILL bend absorbing a lot of impact damage.

Head speed
OK, . . .There's been a lot of talk about head speed and how it's calculated, be careful what you ask for, here it goes, notes please. There are three steps you'll have to follow and calculate. 1st, calculate the motor RPM's. To do this you'll need the KV rate, (the only constant in the equation ) of the motor which is the no load RPM's times the voltage supplied, I.E. motor has a KV rate of 2500 X 11.1 Volts = 27750 no load RPM's. Next as the Heli takes off loading on the motor will increase about 15 %. You now need to multiply the first, (unloaded RPM) by 0.85. 27,750 X 0.85 = 23587.5 RPM under load. Always make sure that THIS number is lower than the maximum RPM rated for the motor youre using. Then we need to calculate the gearing ratio. this is done by the amount of teeth on the spur and pinion gear, I.E. Spur gear has 100 teeth, with the pinion at 10 teeth, Your gear ratio would be 100 t or 10 to 1.

The final head speed is calculated by multiplying head speed by gear ratio than multiplying times loading factor (0.85). And it will look something like this, 2500 (motor KV) X 11.1 ( battery voltage ) X 0.85 = 23587 RPM ( under load ) divided by 100 (main spur) X 10 = 2358.7 actual RPM's or head speed. As You can see the 2500 KV motor surpasses the safety recommended head speed of 2200 RPM with the Falcon 3D using those gear ratios. Point being made here is you can't drop any motor into a helicopter, some calculations must be made, information acquired regarding your particular motors KV rating, gearing and weight of heli. The below table should work as excel sheet. Double click over the blue #s to change your info. It may tell you about protection. Just click ok then change the # click a different cell to display changes.

By bringing down the pitch just a tic, you'll have following results, 1st, higher head speed,(good thing), that'll keep Your motor running at a higher rate of speed keeping Your ESC cooler. 2nd the higher head speed assists with Gyro performance (more stability, another good thing), and the lower pitch will soften lift factors as well, another good thing. Sometimes Less IS More! You'll need a pitch Gauge. There is one here (not added yet) Set pitch at around 6 or 7 degrees because a Heli needs somewhere around 3.5 to 4.0 degrees just to lift off.

Great, straight to the point albeit bent advise. Is the flybar toast? Meaning, is it bent and not really usable? If so, then why not just cut it off and then try and salvage the flybar holders although it may be too late. If you have spares I would consider the above procedure the only alternative. If you don't have spares I would also consider the above procedure the only alternative. Real problem is, you are sort of between the proverbial "Rock and the Hard Place" with no place to go. Add some weight! If you add a little weight to the ends of the flybar this will help calm down the twitchiness a bit. For the OEM radio it is like expo. Using spacers with set screws (a must), as you get better you can move them inward towards the head thus taking away some expo. You just have to make sure they are equal!! Optional fix for quicker cyclic response. Hobby People sells carbon fiber paddles @ 1 gram each at most, with a wicked cut. Works like nothing else I've found . Their pricey at 35.00 for a pair, though they use a 3 mill set screw to hold them in place, making them

highly vestal. Your cyclics are gonna wind tight! With twice the response and speed. Part # 165330 pics on web site under Shogun upgrades.

When the ESC is plugged into the receiver, usually channel 3, the only thing it sends to the receiver is +5v, on the red and black wires, and the only thing it receives is a PWM (Pulse Width Modulation) signal, usually a white wire, that tells the ESC how much voltage to apply to the motor. The width of the PWM signal in milliseconds is used by the processor in the ESC to determine the correct voltage for the motor all based on how the ESC is programmed. One thing you need to do with the Falcon, and most other helis, is make sure the throttle trim is all the way down and the throttle is all the way down when you power up the heli. If not, your ESC will not initialize properly. If you unplug the ESC and plug in a 4.8v battery pack your heli will work just fine, except the main blades should not rotate. Meaning, you will be able to set all your servos to neutral, adjust the collective, and watch the gyro work. One other point. ***WARNING*** DO NOT plug in your main LiPo battery when you do this as it could cause the ESC to fire off and spool up the blades.

ESC to motor disconnect.

Note, that instead of using a alternate power supply plugged into the receiver to check the servos which some dont have a battery pack to do so, here is the option. Cut the wires between the Esc and the motor and install 3.5 mm bullet plugs. I cut them just off the ESC leaving about a centimeter of wire and removed the sheathing left. I then soldered the female side of the bullet plugs there, and the male side to the wires to the motor. Picture shown here is just in the middle of the wire. Either way is fine. Try not to alter the length of the wire. Dont forget the shrink tube!

Other ESCs: The discharge rate of the ESC needs to be, has to be better than what the motor can pull. 30 to 40 amps are good with the falcon motor. The motors only going to pull what the

ESC/Battery's got to give, therefore you'll have more than enough power with lots to spare. If it were the other way around and you needed say 18 amps, and your battery had a lower C rating, like 10 amp discharge rate, it be as if you had a limiter on an gas engine. The motor wouldnt be able to pull what it needed, and it would heat up the battery as well. I was reading the postings regarding the stock ESC's, still using Mine, with no worries. I think that 0 to 1500 jump pertains to the simple 3 point power and pitch curves in the stock radio. With the computer TX's, most have 5 or more points to customize (or soften) to taste. When I hooked up several on upgraded radios, the stock ESC's did well.

Motor disconnect Mod. I've been told something about these little guys failing in flight and popping off the top cap? I've seen no ones here doing that including mine with over 150 flights or so. It could be from over heating, caused by many different ways, over pitching, too much low hovering, adjusting trims, gyros ect on the ground, which would over heat ESC as well as the motor. The reasons could many others as well. Also in reply to what upgrade motor you should use Ill say I'm still using the stock one, and yes the Falcon does come in a little heavier than when stock, though the gold ones doing it. I've lost some power and am going to R&D several motor types tonight. Quick fix: Hobby Peoples Brushless #165370 motor with a 2 mil shaft and 10 tooth pinions will bolt right in allowing all of us to scream like hell into anything including the tree Andrew hit.

Power I need more power Scotty

Another question being asked is; How much power do I need? And, how can I increase run times? The answer lies within another math equation. Estimating AMP draw per AUW, or all up weight. Since most of the helis we are talking about come with metric weights and measures I'll keep it simple using the same. First off a heli needs about 100 watts of power per KG (KG = 1000 grams, 32 grams in one ounce) just to hover. This can get very interesting when physics change the rules with issues that effect the equation I.E. blade airfoil and design, drag, type of drive train, motor efficiency, all ending with head speed. Meaning the general rule, 100 watt per KG can vary as much as -20% to + 100%!!!! Using our STOCK Falcon lets complete an initial equation together. Our Falcon comes at approximate 18 to 20 oz = 576 to 640 grams of AUW. WE use 11.1 volt batteries, so taking the highest number or weight 640 grams divided by 11.1 volts gives us this equation 20 oz divided by 11.1 volts = approximate 18 amps continual draw on the ESC, motor and battery. Using a 1300 mah 3 cell battery youll expect this 1300 divided by 18 amp = about 7 1/2 minute flight. Once again there are several physics issues that change the final outcome, adjusting the constants we've just used. Even temperature, the way we fly, sport or extreme 3D, all change the equation, by whats

mentioned above -20% to +100%. Note: These are approximate, remember, youll need sometimes twice that constant draw when for instance halting a quick decent, and extreme 3D moves often requiring twice that to stop movement of Your Heli. The STOCK ESC is rated at 18 amps. Don't worry, most ESC's have peak protectors that allow for quick surges of power. To accommodate, ours is inclusive. Tip#1: I use ESC's that are rated twice the motor requirement as to avoid all these math issues! Because I really do like "NO WORRIES !" Tip# 2, This also means that with all of the aluminum upgrades, added weight becomes an issue, conclusion; You'll most likely need to upgrade your ESC as not to burn the stock supplied. Suggestive models would be around 25 to 35 amp range.

Motor help.
Here are some tips to save your motor from burning up. These motors can get very hot because of too much resistance, another words, the ESC's will run cooler when at full speed, and get much hotter when holding back, or at full current or capacity. When just hovering around sometimes it's best to reduce some pitch as to allow more head speed by reducing lift capacity. This can be done in normal mode by turning the PIT dial left towards 0 giving less pitch verse motor mixing.

More motor speed

These motors are designed as most to be run at speed, even an ESC over heats or are therefore over worked if continually held back by the reigns. Though the possible solution and answer is to decrease main blade pitch to about 7 degrees. This will provide enough lift. Helis need at least 3.5 to 4 degrees just to lift off, therefore keeping your head speed up, giving you just enough to hover and have enough pitch to halt motion and soften landings. I really believe in this little bird, I'd say definitely a great little heli to start with. Thats not something that is a standard to remark about a 3D heli, though check out this months issue of Quiet Flyer Magazine, (February 2007) which also states the same thing.

To replacing the main bearing, get a socket large enough for the bearing to just fit inside and place it underneath the main gear centered on the bearing. Place your new bearing on top of the old bearing. Place a c clamp with one end on top of the new bearing and the other end under the socket. As you tighten the c clamp it will press the old bearing out and the new bearing in. Be sure to replace the bushing (autorotation sleeve ats6020) if you can - mine was worn. Reference tail boom bearings, you can save a little here for their 4-pack:

Hi once again guys, another question several have had is which pinion gear should or could I use. After some research, the results; Product # T4027 from Integy is packaged with three pinions an 8t, 9t, and a 10t, all suitable for 2.0 mil to 2.3 mil motor shafts or 0.5 module (for You Brits). 2nd choice, H.P.I. racing product #48050 9t, #48501 10t, and #48502 11t pinions, again all suitable for 2.0 to 2.3 mil shafts. 3rd example from Trinity is product #34066 includes a 9t, 10t, 11t, and a 12t pinion set. Tower Hobbies offers products from Duratrax #LXFNC5 9t, and #LXFNC6 10t pinions. Note: The pinions made for the Mini Quake WON'T work! Another Question from out of the USA is comparisons between the pitch of gear size itself, hence more research provided these: 64 pitch = 0.4 modules, 48 pitch = .05 module or mod, and 32 pitch gears = 0.8 Mod. And last the Align Company (T-Rex) offers product # H2020 including a 9, 10, and 11t pinion set.


Australian with new LCD display.


USA model before LCD

Where are you in the world? Seems the transfer rates of money get silly country to country. Here in the states for the $200.00 I'd either pick up the Hitec Eclipse 7 TX & charger only no servos (You've already got the SX's), plus you'll find most radios include full size servos. Or the DX-6 or Dx-7 models as they come with servos as well the DX-6 is made for smaller park flyers, like our Falcon, it also includes a micro RX with micro servos like we have. The Eclipse 7 is capable of changing or broad casting to both negative and positive shift RX's as well as transmitting on Fm single, Fm dual, FM PPM, FM QCPPM as well! Thats why I like that one. It will fly anybodys stuff. I've quickly dialed in at the field to fly on Futabas, Airtronics, Hitec, J.R, anything BUT the new 2.4 ghz Multiplex. They Say the new 2.4 mhz stuff is the Future, though at this time Multiplex are the only to have it.

Optional Transmitter charging notes: TX charge portals outside the TX can be different in regards to the polarity of the plug, With Futaba pos on the inside, Airtronics and JR the REVERSE. Though if you just take the battery out you'll always know left from right or positive from negative. Also you'll be able to charge at that quicker rate I was talking about. If you have Ni-cads for instance, lets say 700 Mah, 8 cell pack, to charge with a trickle (inclusive charger) will be your 15 hour ordeal, though NiCads can easily accept 2 times or more their rated MAh so you could safely charge on a quick charger at 1.5 amps, complete in minutes. Heres the real warning. Lots of guys assume they can do that with the battery still in TX, wrong, their circuit boards cant handle it. That the reason for that little fuse on the JR models. It simply does what Carl does for us, PROTECT US or the system from reversed polarity, shorts, etc So guys even the older versions like myself, I've seen many a radio at shows go BOOM because of quick charging battery left inside the TX. In small print somewhere youll see disclosures to the effect within your manuals. What size batteries are in your transmitter and have you considered putting in some better ones? If it is the conventional Futaba battery tray, then hop on over to Radio Shack and pick up some 2100Mah NiMh batteries and put them in. At least that way when you charge it for 15 hours, hopefully overnight while you are fast asleep, they will last at least a week or so. That is what I get out of one of my sets of RS rechargeable in one of my Futabas.

The new 2.4 GHz Spectrums are the new deal. Eventually this type of radio will replace what we've been using just as FM and QPCM replaced AM radios previously. I'm using the DX-6 in one of my helis without issue, though I'm still partial to the programming and additional options for helis that Futaba and Hi-tech incorporate within their products. The DX-6 was the "1st" model intended for "park flyers" providing limited range for smaller aircraft using a much smaller receiver (perfect for micro helis, etc) The new DX-7 is for all R/C types without range issues, and added additional options for Helis as well. The range problem was solved by designing an improved two part receiver, which takes up less space. So, the radios are going to replace the old type channel boards because of their new design with over millions of combos/channels to automatically choose from, performed upon the TX's initial scanning for open channels. This means it won't assign a channel in use, which in turn means we don't have worries of turning on an active freq. The DX-7 will transmit to it s smaller counterpart RX from the DX-6, though as of yet I don't have the answer to a package deal with a DX-7 TX, and the smaller RX from the DX-6. I do know the average street price of these receivers are going to be around $100.00. This may sound a little pricey, but they bring many benefits and safety to our hobby. Remember when those 1st radios cost nearly as much as a new family car? The R/C Industry around the world really isnt in sync as of yet, meaning they produce Radios in different modes. Here in the states most of us fly on Mode 2, throttle

and pitch with rudder on the left stick, cyclic left and right with elevator on the right stick. In Asia as probably in Sydney, radios are produced in mode 1, that being cyclic left and right with elevator on the left stick and throttle and pitch with rudder on the right stick. Simply the reverse of both gimbals, and to make it even happier there is specialized radios. Mode 3 that can be special ordered through the manufactures, with throttle and pitch with cyclic left / right on the left stick, and rudder and elevator on the right stick. Wild huh? Anyways, wouldnt be a happier planet if all of us came together on everything from R/C stuff to World Peace? Crazy idea? Maybe it will start with the simple exchange of information just like this! Though back to the spirit of the Birds of Play!

PIT or pitch, this is the initial starting point for your pitch for your main blades. I.E. negative -1.5% to about positive +7 to 8 % in normal mode. Simply said it is the start to a curve that were graphing to state where we want it to begin. I believe the 2nd refers to a term not used frequently PLT, or Pitch with locked throttle. This simply put is another end point adjustment stating where we want that graph to end or how many degrees positive collective in the main blades. The L in PLT referring to locked throttle control. To explain a bit, when in normal or idle up 1, we have a distinctive control over blade pitch and throttle curves. Throttle starting at 0 zero through to full, in our case 70% on the stock TX. Though when going to 3D the Falcons radio jumps to 100% throttle at the top reducing to 70 % at mid stick, allowing for maneuvering without lowering the head speed. Hence locked throttle or just another or higher valued curve. The computerized radios can be graphed to exact requirements by the pilot in 3D. I.E. a standard throttle curve for the 3 point graph we use would be 100% / 70% / 100%, or 100% at end points, 70% throttle at half stick. I prefer the newer computerized types, Futaba, Hitec, J.R. etc. that allow you to place more refinements in our graph adding 2 or up to 7 or more points to proceed graphing a linier curve for throttle as well as blade pitch. On my 5 point curves for 3D my graph or setting points look like this: 100% / 85% / 65% / 85% / 100%. This means at full range points of my throttle curves for upright flight & inverted flight, 65% at middle/half stick to prevent loading the head speed with additional torque requirements. This is mixed with another graph we draw or create; The Blade pitch curve, which generally is always linked to throttle curves. The throttle actually leading the blade pitch or of higher value to insure proper power requirements to avoid losing head speed due to torque. So In respect to previous 3D throttle curve my radios blade pitch is set 95 to 100% / 75 to 80% / and a flat 50% at mid stick to allow a neutral point for 3D requirements and 75 to 80% / 95 to 100%. Positive pitch should be 7.5 to 8.5, with a negative factoring in at 6.5 to 7.5. By the way, you need less when inverted, no turbulence issue from the heli itself really. Though right side up (or is it right side down in Australia)HA HA!!!! Though right side up your fuse, boom and everything creates drag to deal with, hence the extra tic on top! It also would depend on your approximate head speed at what pitch you've set. Remember maximum levels of +11% and -11% combined 22 point spread is a lot for the Falcon. YOU NEED TO MAKE VERY SURE that the idle up switch is set to the

blade pitch, meaning with motor disconnected, pitch has to remain exactly in the same degrees when flipping between normal and 3D. The setting should be as close to even or 0 degrees as possible at a tic past half throttle on the stick, too much additional pitch she's going to rocket away from you. TOO little and you'll drill her into the ground if in a low enough hover. Remember also that the power band will rise from 70% to 100% of motors capacity at the flick of that switch. Combine the additional power with a possible difference in pitch by even 1% or 2% could be devastating, happening in flick of the Eye! Ive got in 3D: 0% throttle -9 pitch and 100% throttle +10 pitch. In normal I use curves but with OEM radio you should have something like: 0% up to 50% throttle -2 -0 pitch and 100% throttle +9 +10 pitch. Another main issue the Guys have had is that wobble. So after checking all physical, bent fly bar etc, check out how much main blade pitch you have. (gotta make or buy gauge) and pitch them no higher than pos. +7.0 to 7.5%. OK? If Your over pitched, I t will cause a lot of wobble because the motor, unless in 3D, (full throttle) has too much resistance causing a much lower head speed, thus causing wobble and lack of rudder control. (Feeling drifty).

3D? It's not that there is anything in high regards for 3D, your in a learning curve right now, Flipping that little switch puts another factor into the MIX if you will think of possibly learning to swim, than have some one tell you to dive from 10 meter board. It's a leap into a new experience. And until you take the plunge you won't know! There is nothing big about it really if your helis set up right. In fact the higher head speeds going to provide more stability! Thats a good thing, on the flip youre used to pulling the stick all the way down as of yet in normal/hover to land. If you forget to flip that switch back to normal from 3D, you'll have the surprise of a life time trying to land at 100 percent throttle! It also means your going to HAVE to be sharper and keen as to starting the heli up. Simply plugging in the battery if you forget shes in 3D might ruin your day or cause a missing finger on a darker note! Here a pitch, there a pitch, everywhere a pitch, pitch. Ol' McAndy had a Falcon, Ee Ii, Ee Ii, Oh! Optional radio pitch setting help. Generally there are 5 points to the graph, so for norm throttle go 0/20/50/70/90 for hover, that will give you a softer starting curve then set pitch for normal hover. You'll need a pitch gauge mic it like this: 0 (will be even or -1) so 0 /15/45/65/85. At the last point youre trying to acquire pos +7%. Remember that little wire? It will be just a little lower than idle up ST1. (Note, I dont know what previous sentence means). Go with this on that 3D mode 100/75/65/75/100. If you want to increase into extreme 3D youll need those numbers. Pitch, it isnt quite that simple. You'll have to check center, (motor unplugged) than flip

to 3D mode. Your third setting is your key. Flip back & forth between the two nor & St1 while on the third point. Those two have to match. When you have it you program in the rest of you parameters to your liking. Just remember throttle ALWAYS LEADS PITCH. I just pulled out on of my Eclipse 7and hooked it up to the Falcon and these are the numbers I've got for 3D pitch, remember though these arent the same servos etc. These numbers give me a Positive 9% on top and a negative 9% on the reverse or bottom. So yours will vary a bit. 0/18/40/60/100. The center number of 40 gives me even blades at center stick and also match pitch numbers entered in for normal mode, 3rd point center. And as far as your gyro goes experiment a little. If Your still using the stock gyro, turn it all the way up (clock wise) then back it off (counter clock wise) just a Tic. You will now be able to dial it in with your transmitter. Its easy, Try 65 or 75 percent on the TX. If its not enough her tail will drift. Shell feel all sloppy. So then turn the gain a little higher, if you start at 65 go to 75 or so. If you go too high she'll start to tail wag back and forth. I thought a moment, and decided to become redundant with the following regarding pitch curves and throttle. Throttle curves ALWAYS LEAD PITCH curves. In a recent post someone asked a question as to "If the Falcon would hold up under a 3D throttle curve of Points 1-5; 100/100/85/100/100. Sound a little radical? Just remember that torque can work for or against us. The higher your head speed is during extreme 3D in micro and mini electrics the better. Align Corp. (T-Rex) has a suggestive pinion combos with pitch/throttle curves. The throttle curve for 3D was a suggested 100/100/100/100/100! Why? Because very little head speed can be lost even under extreme conditions. Simply what the little motor lacks in brut force (torque), It makes up with extreme speed thats geared down to acceptable flight levels to be met, overcoming the need for a huge heavy torque and steroid filled motor twice the size.

Expo question, what it does is de-sensitize movement at center stick. So if you had an amount of 70 % expo in your cyclic controls and you were shaking a bit with your fingers. The craft wouldnt feel it. It's exactly like F-16 fly by wire. If you put in Just 10 to 20 % you probably wouldnt even know. So try 50 or 60% than youll feel the difference. When I'm teaching someone, I'll not put anything in the 1st hover. Than Ill dial in an extreme amount and let them feel the difference. Its up to them after.

Hi everyone, There has been so much discussion in regards to these two little knobs I've been asked by many to confirm thiers beliefs or findings as they progressed through experimentation. I recieved several from Austrailia and thats the Ones I chose to address. Don't worry Wiggy You'll get Yours as well! OK, 1st, we will start addressing findings as they came in order from one of those letters. "Does flipping the "PLT" knob have any effects on travel of the "Colective" servo, and when You do, will it's effect change it's current position while in NOR position? The answer is YES. Reason? In a previous post I answerd correctly I might add, that "PLT" is in reference to the term "PITCH with LOCKED THROTTLE". This means that the proccessor in the TX "centers" where it

"believes to be center" (for 3D) from what we input in from NOR mode, what Your all talking about, which is a clock face value of around 10. That value should be mic'd with your pitch gauges at a reletive ZERO, meaning even degrees with the horizon on The Main Blades. This adjustment is Your first critical starting spot, this starts the peremiters for the TX to make calculations as to where center stick "WILL BE" when flipped INTO 3D. Also in the same question was a belief that changeing the servo arms position might help. The answer is "PROBABLY NOT." Reason, the servos are so small, and the little ribbed spline part coming out of the servo simply give too much adjustment. Try moving the small collective rod connected to the servo, Simply losen the "set" or "grub" screws and pull or push the wire up or down to find center. Do this after you've made sure the Transmitter and trim is even and on NOR. mode. The next question in order was to more clock positions and "If I change the value of the "PLT" in NOR mode will it adjust the Travel on My collective servos." The Answer is YES. REASON? Stepping back to "Pitch with locked trottle mode", This going to tell the The TX where to END calculations for normal flight, allowing no more servo movement than You have given it, so if You progamed in 12 o'clock or 1 o'clock Your going to get minimal servo travel. The next question was really an assuption and partially correct. It was a long ordeal (so is this) so I'm going to edit and simplify. If everyones on the same page as of now, You'll surely understand that when You've set the beginnig or sarting point from NOR mode to center when You flip that 3D switch with motor unplugged, you want ZERO DIFFERENCE with Your throttle stick at mid point or 50% throttle. Why? BECAUSE IF NOT, THE HELI WILL EITHER POP UP QUICKLY or much worse PUSH IT SELF INTO THE GROUND! To make these last tiny adjustments You'll need to return to NOR mode BECAUSE YOUR ALL CORRECT! THEY (WONT MOVE IN 3D mode) and work out the problem, possibly a slight adjustment on the "clock" value or a Tic of adjustment with the collective rod or wire. Reasons for all of the above are as simple as this. Some pilots while starting up thier Helis (ALWAYS IN NOR MODE) flip into 3D on the ground, meaning before they actually take flight. Some pilots change over into 3D after departing the ground. I'm one of them. REASONS? I prefer to land under lower throttle values, its easier to "feather the craft in, I won't suffer from an accidental landing at 100% throttle and Full reversed pitch, and several reasons beyond those as well. The last question I'll wrap up with these remarks, were all fortunate in having one of these Helis, Most with the same inclusives would cost 2 to 3 times the amount! The Transmitter is nothing like what You'll see at a regular Fying field. All Helis are now being flown with some sort of computerized TX's sorry, though it's the truth. Most hobby stores other than the ones We have purchased from won't understand this "clock face" value language were adapting are selves to. All of these "mechanical" adjustments were performing equate to numbers and percentages are done mathimatically completed by the values derived from equations not "BIG BEN." I'll end with saying I still love My falcon and have addressed this issue by simply replacing the original radio. I know that many of You can't budget for this as of yet, but trust me if you love this Hobby You will. It will all be done for You to an extent by simply programming in some numbers onto a computer screen. Its a Great Helicopter, You've all save hundreds of dollers, pounds, what ever you call money, where ever You live. Be Happy for that alone and use a small additional amount to purchase an upgraded Transmitter WHEN YOU CAN, You'll be glad You did. Thanks for all of You patience, Its sometimes an "all night ordeal" on this thread, I hope I've done some good for all of

you as this is the ONLY REASON I return. Honest Tim! I've loved this hobby for over 40 years. . . . .did you know that before all of the computerized radios even before Gyros, We were trying to get Helis to fly by radio control. Their was a world challenge every year till 1969 where the winner placed the longest flight time as a little over 5 seconds! Thats it, So we can be thankful for and to all that came in front of us to give Us the tech support we have today. . . . . . obiron I'M sorry to make this a "Public" announcement, and I know it's long, though I did It for You, as well as everyone else. It Needed To BE. Please, Don't Edit the Previous Post for Contents with the Exception of any Names Inclusive or It's Your Thread!!

Flight Instruction:
Yes youll have to ride the sticks to take off or even wobble around a little inches off the deck. Torque is causing the craft to want to drift towards the left, because the mains are swinging clockwise. That will mean even if the heli was built and trimmed by an expert, you'd still expect those physics to play against you. The tail rotor will want to drift the closer you to the ground as well making it a truly frustrating moment. If you look at your falcon from the rear when hovering you will notice it is tilted to the right. This is caused by tail induced drift, hence why the chopper wants to go left on take off, because the chopper is sat at the vertical on the skids, this is also true of the full size. Translating tendency or drift the entire helicopter has a tendency to move in the direction of tail rotor thrust (to the right) when hovering. This movement is often referred to as drift. To counteract this drift, the rotor mast in some helicopters is rigged slightly to the left side so that the tip-path plane has a built-in tilt to the right, thus producing a small sideward thrust. In other helicopters, drift is overcome by rigging the cyclic pitch system to give the required amount of tilt to the tip-path plane (fig. 20). If you hold a stick in your hand and apply a purely rotational torque at one end and counter act this force with a linear force at the other the stick will move in that direction. A video of correction for drift on takeoff

Not sure if there are many out there who remember the ketchup ad that featured Carly Simon singing Anticipation. In the commercial you watched the ketchup bottle and waiting anxiously for that tomato nectar, plus loads of sugar, to slowly come oozing out. Well, that's partly what it's all about when trying to do a well controlled hover. You need to be watching it close, like right above the blades or the main shaft, and sort of anticipating which way the thing is drifting and before it gets too far you need to input your control. Remember there is a small amount of lag from the time you input your control till it actually takes place on the heli. Another point to remember is that slop in your linkages causes unwanted movement for which you must compensate by anticipating where the heli is drifting. This is also where you can fine tune your transmitter trims. When you lift off and get it into a hover let go of your sticks and see how long it will stay in one place before you panic and jam some input into it. Finally, and the last point is practice, practice, practice cause practice makes perfect. Maybe this will help and maybe not, but I sure hope it does.

Real Flight G-3.5 Sim. You'll need a fair computer to run successfully, though its been rated as one of the best round the world. It might sound a little pricey at $200.00 American, though worth every penny! Believe Me. Doug loves his as well as everyone else that has It. If the price is to steep you might be able to E-Bay a copy of the previous G-2 version, which wont require as much RAM or heavy video card to process. I could probably find one here in the States for you, though I believe youll have no worries. Theirs several others I can suggest if You need, some PDF/DWNLD on line though won't be as accurate with true physics to real flight. Remember, safety 1st, you can crash pixels all day long in practice and it won't keep costing you! And you won't get hurt! P.S. their really great when the weathers a bit drastic or work hours take the day light! Ok try the Impala or my favorite, the Raptor 30 size, both will be excellent trainers in preparation for your 1st Falcon flight.

Connection troubles Stock Sim plus other options.

What goes from Tx into PC mic is digital PPM signal and because of TTL level some audio card does not get it correctly. Check this post in order to be sure you got the right audio card. You need a couple more drives in order to make this happen with any other sims (if sim is using proprietary USB dongle this wont work, you need connect Tx into it). ClearView sim written on Java does not use proprietary dongle so it will work with our Tx. I am using the program called Winscope. It's oscilloscope for Windows and it's free. With this program you can observe your PPM signal (how your sound card gets it). The signal should be clean and as square as possible. Otherwise the driver won't be able to calculate the channels pulse timings in proper way. So your pulse length will fluctuate. Like I said before, sometimes it's impossible with certain sound card to get clean signal. (I cannot do it on my laptop but my desktop is ok). If you can not get it right then the other simplest solution is to buy PPM to USB adapter for 20-30 bucks ( so you will connect your radio to this dongle which will convert PPM pulses into digits which will be used as sticks positions in any Sim. If everything is square you need to download a couple free drivers: SmartPropoPlus_3.3.0_PPJ this one get input from sound card, calculates the PPM signal into digits which is represent the width of PPM pulses and conduct it to the second driver PPJoy which emulates the virtual joystick ( when you map your 6 channels you can calibrate it). Then you go to ClearView (they give you 200 min trial for free) and pick up your virtual joystick as input and enjoy flying. Clear View is a bit better Sim then FMS. Clear View uses panoramic photo as a background but quality of heli model I think is the same as in FMS (FMS is open source project; every body has access to source code and mathematical models of flying things). I have tried Aerofly Pro Delux, G3 G-3.5. G3 - first version when they introduce heli... well, say no more. Then goes G3.5. On my taste the heli models are about the same as in Aerofly Pro Delux, G3.5 got more bells and whistles but required much more powerful PC (and has more bugs, sometimes it locks and blows up and support site points toward your video/sound drives... which is BS). Aerofly has less variety of things but also less hanger for CPU/video card powers and more stable. There are another couple good Sims: Reflex XTR, Phoenix RC. But I didnt play with them, I only saw demo mode (records). Well, they looks good too and I have heard opinions that they are more heli Sims then anything else.

Generally you will be in need of PPM USB adapter for your radio in order to play with FMS and/or ClearView (may be you can get away with couple software drivers Ive mentioned before and mono cable for your sound card). Btw, if you going to connect your non art-tech radio you will be needed adapter (kind of buddy cable for you sound card). All other Sims goes with its own USB dongles and adapters, so you can connect your radio to them. these are couple URL who cares this converter. Or in US: that usb adapter you can connect directly to OEM radio and there are couple adapters for couple different connectors

Gyro check: What you are seeing with the tail servo moving or drifting is pretty much normal for a proper acting heading hold gyro. But here is one thing you can do to make sure your tail setup is correct. Unplug the tail servo from the gyro and plug it directly into the receiver on channel 4. That is where the gyro cable plugs in. Now then, with the rudder trim set to zero make sure that when you move the stick from left to right and visa versa that the tail pitch is changing. Also make sure there is no binding in the tail movement when the rudder stick reaches its' limits. Now then, make sure your tail servo arm is centered and the tail control arm is centered. Next you need to check if there is enough pitch in the tail blades to counteract the torque from the spinning main blades. Usually it helps to have just a skosh of pitch in the tail blades for this. You can set this by adjusting the rear collective towards the tail boom and thus adding a small amount of right pitch. Okay, now that you are satisfied with the setup, unplug the servo from the receiver, plug the gyro back into channel 4 and then plug the tail servo into the gyro. Turn your radio on, and plug in the battery. I know you probably know this but make sure your throttle stick, and throttle trim, are pushed all the way down when you plug in the battery. This will properly arm the ESC. Presuming Art-Tech is still using the same ESC, you should hear an initial beep when you first plug in the battery. In about a second you will hear a series of beeps about one second apart. I think there is a total of 5 beeps. After the fourth beep the gyro LED should come on and stay on. Usually one more beep after this. When this happens,

without moving the heli, the tail servo may have a little bit of movement as mentioned earlier because the gyro is a heading hold type. You really want to keep the heli level and perfectly still through this process. That is why they give you the one-second delay after plugging in the battery, to move your hands away and let the bird be still, before gyro initialization takes place. Okay, when you apply throttle, and get it light on the skids, can you keep it from spinning with rudder input from you radio? If yes, check if you can adjust the rudder trim to keep the heli from spinning. If not, then you may have not set enough pitch in the tail blades to counteract the torque of the main blades so go back to that setup. Here is a note worth remembering. Since the Falcon 3D tail rotor is on the right side of the tail boom, when you push the rudder right the tail blades should increase in pitch. Another way of looking at this is if you position the tail blades vertically and think of the bottom blade as a rudder on a boat, when you push the rudder to the right the leading edge of the tail blade should move to the left, toward the tail boom, which would turn the nose to the right. Likewise, if you move the rudder stick to the left the leading edge of the tail blade should move to the right, away from the tail boom, which would turn the nose to the left. Also remember that the tail blades spin with the leading edge moving up toward the rotor blades so they are moving into the rotor wash if you will.

Reasons for tail spinning in 360's uncontrollably.

CAUTION, before performing this test it is best that you disconnect the motor from the ESC. If you have not already performed the modification to do this, see the ESC section; Motor disconnect. Assuming you have made sure to always turn on your radio FIRST. Then plug in your sufficiently charged battery. After plugging in the heli, you have to wait. Listen for tones/beeps . . . light blinking red and then hold solid red. Before you plug in the battery, make sure the throttle is at zero and idle up is in normal mode. Most ESCs will not arm if the throttle is not at zero or less. Do not move the heli or TX sticks or switches for at least 15 seconds. If this fails and your gyro doesnt arm itself, check your tail and collective servos are plugged into receiver. Check and re-check all of them, focusing on the rudder servo or (SX). Channels 4 and 5, are they plugged in and in the right slots? The stock version are actually marked 4&5 on the wires. Also check the polarity of the wires shown below (white wire top) and the orientation of the #s. It is only a sticker, and maybe installed wrong. Refer to these photos.

If youve up graded to Futaba or another radio the multi wire goes into 4 and the single into 5. If everything is correct up to this point, proceed to checking all mechanical part of the system. This will include servos, ball links etc. Also check the blade holders on the tail. The ball ends are to be connected to the leading edge not the trailing edge. To change this, remove the blades and the ball links coming from the slider and spin both blade holder 180 and reinstall blades and connect ball links. Check to make sure they are secure and actually connected. To check the tails mechanical operations remove the horn (arm) from the tail servo and move the linkage by hand. It should be free and shouldnt bind. Correct any problems and re-attach. Center all your trims on the TX and power up the system. The recessed mode switch on the TX should be in the MIX position. You should see servo movement during set-up and if you move the entire heli by hand, left and right you should see the tail servo wag as you do it. Next step is to take the gyro out of the loop. Unplug the Gyro from channel 4&5 on the receiver. Take the wire from the SX and plug it directly into channel 4 on the RX and move your rudder stick. If your tail feathers now move you may have just found the problem. If they dont move the problem may be the SX or wire to the SX. First lets follow the servo doesnt move scenario, or skip this paragraph if it did move. Three options here; servo, wire, receiver output. Your battery is charged, right? Servo/wire check; plug the SX wire into the channel # 1 slot. Channel 1 is your left/right cyclic servo. Move the cyclic stick left and right. If the SX doesnt move you have a bad servo or the wire to it. If the SX moves then lets check the receiver. Plug the #1 servo wire into channel 4. Move your tail (rudder) stick left and right. Does the cyclic left/right servo move? If the cyclic servo doesnt move then the tail channel (4) is bad. Go to (section I havent created yet). If it does move, then re-plug everything back to its correct locations. Re-set the heli, un-plug than re-plug battery and slowly turn your model on. Use caution not to move throttle up thus powering the motor. Move the heli left and right. Are the tail feathers still moving? If they are they may act a little weird. That would be the gyros working. Next apply throttle slowly to see if the gyro has control to hold the nose (within reason) straight. If it is holding you may wish to visit the Gyro section fine tuning for further adjustments and tips. Now check to see if you can hold it with rudder control from you. If Yes, check if adjusting trims will solve the issue. If not lets walk a little farther and talk about the effects of torque. You should already know some of this. Think about a simple toy gyro. Torque is in action the whole time your being entertained. Question is; do you have enough pitch in the tail feathers? If youre new to this you probably won't have the

answer. The tail blades (feathers) need a little help by preset rear collective a tic towards the boom. Meaning the slider needs to start off towards the boom side from center. Note that in this position the blades should be pushing air away from the boom. IF!!! (Please dont do this) you were to hold the blades and turn on the motor, the body of the Falcon will spin counter clockwise. So it is the job of the tail feathers to stop this movement. Thus the torque from the motor. You will also realize that the pitch of the main blades increase the torque from the motor as you increase pitch to hover up. So having an amount of pre loaded pitch on the tail will help hold the nose and relieve a little stress from the gyro. In the pictures, note the screws to get an idea of the pitch as the black blades are hard to see. From the second pictures angle the blades spin counterclockwise.

The next issue if you still have trouble is the main rotor blades. It takes about 3.5 to 4.0 positive degrees of pitch to allow your heli to rise off the ground. Too much pitch and that can be your issue. With the throttle all the way down your blades should be even or parallel with ground or just a little on the negative or down side by a degree or so. This will assist you in keeping the heli on the ground as it spools up. Too much torque caused by overly high main blade pitch will reduce your head speed which being connected together via the gears will slow your tail rotor speed lowering its performance and it and the gyros ability to compensate for torque. Check your pitch settings with the described pitch gage in the blade section if you dont already have one. Too large or heavy main blades or any off balance issues or modifications that alter the drag (torque) on the main blades needs to be APPROVED by the PHYSICS dept. And youre never going beat them! They are one set of tough rules.

Gyro Options
I went in search of Gyros equivalent or better than our stock gyros. This is what I've dug up. 1st, not all of us can afford the Futaba series 240 and GY401 series Gyros at 125.00 and 150.00 a piece. There are however GREAT Gyros with equivalent features I.E. heading hold, manual adjusting pots for intensity/sensitivity and limit control giving the ability to adjust rear rotor collective, like end point adjustments on servos. The two I've found one of which I have used and still do in one of my birds is the MS Composite

prod # MS-44 heading hold gyro, inclusive with all the features of the Futaba GY401 at a fraction the cost. The 2nd Gyro was found at Hobby Lobby which is the Ikarus Heading hold Gyro, also with same features as both previously mentioned for $87.00 American. These little gyros have the capacity to control Helis larger than the falcons, so No Worries!!! The MS-44 takes a lot of crash abuse and keeps working like a Timex watch. It has all the bells and whistles of a Futaba GY-401, including gain pot and limit pot, able to work with or WITHOUT a computerized radio, yes our Falcon radios! The MS-44 accepts mixing from all radios companies or brands, from your positive or negative shift TX as well. If Hobby Lobby and Art-Tech havent come up with what you feel meets expectations or individual needs these should. A good point is you won't have to sell the Wife, Kids, or trade in your dog to afford One. So remember, all three models have heading hold lock, and manually adjustable sensitivity, and manual adjustment of limit control. This means this model will perform as well on a standard or non computerized radio, like the stock falcon TX. It also means if you already have a computer style TX you can adjust manually and from the transmitter! Cool Huh? MS-44 gyro link:

GY401 gyro setup

The GY401 is a great Gyro, though even some of the best pilots/modelers are in heated debate as to application issues between, how it acts or re-acts in applications in Nitro verses Electrics. There is an often but never spoken about rule it seems as to where to place the Gyro. In a nitro or gasser, no issues, just keep it out of harms way in nice clean out of the way tidy little spot. Though in Our case, this marvelous world of electrics, and Micro/Mini Electrics placement of the gyro can be CRITICAL. The rule goes like this; theres a mystic triangle to follow and take heed to. The RX, the Gyro, and the Motor must have as much space between them as possible. On some Gyros, their shielded with composites which helps reducing the final Killer; Harmonic/Electrical/Magnetic field distortions. Gyros work off magnetic fields to acquire directional attitude. Unfortunately electric motors create a magnetic field just by having magnetic polarity. I was confused myself after having no issues with placement on my nitro stuff because I/We couldnt figure out why new 401's for example, replacing much less expensive ARF types, would go bonkers and take a dive. I'll cut to the chase here, in very fine print on the very small piece of paper they include with the GY401 as instruction, it says their must be at least 10 centimeters of space between the Gyro and the Motor! In the same reference it mentions using Futabas special mounting tape to further shield or reduce this issue. When we look at these newer type micros and minis (like Our Falcons) the frame/chassis is barely that total. Hence, when looking at the Falcon, clearly the manufacture separated the two compensates as far away as possible, with Gyro all the

way up front, motor in the rear. I've used "M.S. Composites Gyros"(far less expensive) and been able to stick it on the side of a Shogun (basically right next to the Motor) without issue as well as Evo-flights H.H. Model, though the GY401's a little different. It needs the rules followed. I've noticed the newer reviews and pictures coming in on the newer versions of the Falcon and see the Gyros have been moved towards the rear on the boom. Thats the exact location where several Shogun type helis met their death blows. However, moving it farther back behind the servo boom mounting, just in front of the horizontal fin solved the problem as well as just sticking it where (Our Version of the Falcon) already rests, up front. So we've got placement issues out of the way, so on to hook up and settings. 1st, make sure sub trims as well as trim adjustments are zero, next plug in your tail servo to manually center it. Than unplug the tail servo and just hook everything up in the same order as the Falcon was shipped. Tail SX into Gyro, Gyro will have two cables the 1st being blue/red/black hooks to tail servo, the 2nd, you'll see is a black/red/green with a yellow separate at the end, they hook into channels 4 and 5 respectively on Your receiver with the act of plugging in the yellow into channel 5. You've just completed installation of the GY401 Gyro. Make sure to mount it in the same fashion as the original, flat, meaning the wires of the Gyro should be coming out of the front towards the nose. Carefully fold and use Velcro strap or cloth to retain the wires. NO ZIP TIES as vibration can cut through the wires after some time. Now on to settings, you'll notice two micro switches at the top with IDs for on/off (marked on the side of switch ports) and DS (digital servo/Analog servo) and a 2nd which is directional Nor/Rev. You'll click digital switch to off position if you dont have a digital servo on the tail. You'll click the directional switch to Rev to accommodate Futaba and the Hi-Tech, Eclipse transmitters. Next you'll see two pot settings marked delay and limit. The 1st (delay) is going to instruct the Gyro on how much stability you want, like rock solid hover or less on the heading hold. Turn this one just a tic shy of 100%. You'll be able to fine tune this later with your TX. The 2nd (limit) switch you'll be able to finally adjust the amount of throw in the tail servo, by moving the stick left to right, watching servo arm travel and reducing it to not exceed the mechanical limit of the linkage. Note; you may include reading through your radios manual for menus and sub menus for personal settings to finalize trim, sensitivity etc. Others personal settings in referencing Gyro gain, (Nor/Hover/idle up) really means nothing because every radios a little different as to sensitivity as well as your own preference. Set the Gyro gain too little and shes going to drift, too much, and she'll start tail wagging.

Servo check procedure. ESC The Futaba digital 3154 is the real deal for the tail. Gyros communicate several times faster when hooked to a digital SX, because they speak the same language. A comment regarding the big Hi-tech debate. I.E. HS-55's, HS-56's, and the 65's. Hobby Lobby offers the 55's as a replacement on line with a nice little picture, though the HS-56 servo

offers faster response with optional carbonate gearing in lieu of nylon. Carbonate is a composite of nylon and carbon fiber, cool, tougher, and same size as our stock servos. They will surprise you though by having two additional mounting brackets that can be easily cut away. The HS-65 comes in two versions as well, 1st offers nylon type gears (OK), the 2nd with metal type gears(not OK) because metal gears have weird effects on electric Helis and can cause harmonic distortion with our radios. The HS-65's are a little larger by one mill or so, though no worries squeezing them in. If the less expensive replacement servos are reversed of what the original inclusive with the Falcon is, then this could cause reversal. Reason, not all company are on the same plug, reveres polarity. The 3 wires are positive, negative and signal. If red and black are switched just reverse them. Always check your system when you install new components.

Channel connections USA. The following are stock locations for all wires plugged into the receiver. 1) Cyclic servo (Roll) left/right connected to swashplate. 2) Cyclic servo (Elevator) Fore/aft connected to front and back of swashplate. 3) ESC wire (throttle) Also powers the receiver (4.8 to 5 volts from ESC). 4) Gyro wire #4 or multi wire (white/red/black) from alternate gyro. 5) Gyro wire #5 or single wire from alternate gyro. (Yellow for GY401). 6) Collective servo (Pitch) located center connected to pitch arm. The polarity is as follows; white wire towards the top(See photo in gyro section) Red wire in the middle and black towards the back of the receiver. The Channel #s run from bottom to top. (See photo in gyro section)

Alternate skids can be used from T REX. Essentially any of the T-Rex skids will work. Example here is part number HS1144-75 with silver struts. Big fuel tubing over your landing skids help hold it still. Align makes the little blue rubber rings but they want money.

This is for the black skids, Part # HS1118. Landing skid set from this place,

Upgrade Aluminum parts

Major Modifications
Skids: If anyone is looking for some really good, quality skids which appear to be quite impervious to Quickster style landings you might try this place,

Carls Head Mod 1

Okay, this mod is for those on a limited budget who would like to upgrade or just change the present configuration of their Falcon 3D head to a T-Rex style caged flybar head. About the time I started working on this change I posted an inquiry as to whether or not there is any definite advantage to a caged or closed flybar head. From the replies it would appear that the biggest advantage is simply that it is much easier to setup than the stock Falcon flybar scheme, which is just like the Shogun V1/V2 and several other helis. At the same time I was doing this I also changed out the plastic Falcon blade grips to some Shogun aluminum bling pieces from MicroHeli. Main reason for doing this is two fold. 1) Get rid of the plastic and 2) the MicroHeli pieces use thrust bearings in the blade grips. Since early on in my heli flying career I have always preferred having thrust bearings in the blade grips just like the big gassers and real helis.

Prices and parts are listed below. $11.79 Align Part # HS1072 SF Mixing Lever Set $8.79 Align Part # HS1086 Flybar Control Set $29.99 MicroHeli Precision CNC Main Blade Grips (SILVER) - Shogun V1/V2 My time priceless!

It should also be noted that the Falcon 3D balls are 4.45mm. And I just don't know why these manufacturers can't settle in on one ball size. It sure would make it easier on you and me and a lot of others. But then I guess they wouldn't get to sell all those extra pieces for which we end up paying a fortune to keep our spares inventory at a suitable level. Anyway, I had some spare 4.45mm balls left over from one of my Shogun upgrades so I used them on the mixing lever arms because I wanted to stay pretty much stock Falcon. I did have to use two T-Rex size ball links on the two balls in the flybar control set. The T-Rex pieces I used fit the Falcon without any modifications. I did not have to create any new control linkage pieces and used my original control rods I had already made when I got rid of the Z-Bend linkage pieces. The only thing I had to give up was the leading edge blade grip control. This feature is much better for beginning heli pilots and I personally like that control system. But supposedly the rear edge control is supposed to be better for 3D but I am a ways from worrying about that one. I also moved some of the balls from the outside of pieces to the inside so things would line up better.

Everything appears to be much tighter and in my mind I think it is more stable but that could be only because I want it to be that way. It is really a pretty straight forward mod and I think most people with a little bit of mechanical sense should have no problem. No special tools are required and there are no trick secrets.

Carls Head mod 2

Prices and parts are listed below. Some of the pieces I had laying around and thus were not new purchases. But I still included the cost as I wanted the dollars number to be realistic.

Align generic parts $3.79 HS1184 Flybar Rod 220mm (2 pieces) $1.89 HS1194 Flybar Weight Set (2 pieces) $6.79 HS1046 3K Flybar Paddle Align plastic parts $11.79 HS1072 SF Mixing Lever Set $8.79 HS1086 Flybar Control Set Align metal parts $17.89 HS1207-78 Align Flybar Seesaw Holder (Gray) $27.49 HS1215-78 Align Metal Control Levers (Gray) $18.89 HS1081-78 Align Metal Aileron Flybar Frame (Gray) Micro Heli $19.99 MH-4023 Aileron Lever - SHOGUN/SHOGUN V2 $44.99 MH-4012V2 UNI Swashplate Version 2 - SHOGUN $29.99 MH-4002MBG QNC Main Blade Grips - SHOGUN/SHOGUN V2 Heli Direct $9.99 HDX300-UGE12 HDX300 CNC Tail Pitch Slider $18.00 HDX300-UGE04 HDX300 CNC Tail Rotor System $9.00 UGA11 Shogun/Walkera/3DX400 CNC Elevator Arms

Hobby Lobby Falcon Upgrades $22.80 ATS8008 Aluminum Tail Gearbox and Slider My time - priceless


Taps Dies
Check this out for all your dieing needs. And here's another place,

Optional information, Fun Stuff, and more

Master Jedi Allen Szabo Jr
Just for fun, some video starting with Allen Szabo Jr. and from there who knows At a gathering of crazy people. Somewhere in the middle of nowhere.

Other sites
A Good Buddy of mine out of Southern Ca knows some Guys that have started a new web site I think would be so cool for all of us, it's a free service.

Optional other this that

Everyone's talking about Airwolfs Bell 222, thought I'd FYI. Hobby People carries an Airwolf fuse made for this heli, also Century Helis under scale micro/mini listings have more than one choice including an all fiber glass pre painted versions in Rescue and yes . . . the Airwolf, both fiber glass versions a little pricey, but if You wish to build it from "kit" their very reasonable. All have retract options. The Falcon will go very nicely in either way you choose. I purchased the kit from Hobby People for $49.99,

which turned out well. The kit is in two halves plus canopy one piece etc, with the wood precut for bulkheads needed, follow the fair instructions, with some decent pictures on how to attach wheels and lose the skids. (by the way there were several "versions" of this bell produced, some used skids because of job design. Ford Germany commercial Jim Youngs review Gary Morris review Falcon 3D Bird of Play Owners Plus Century Bell 222 RTF

ESC; Electronic speed control. Horn; Also known as the arm. That normally white thing on the servo. Nose in; Basically hovering with the nose towards you. Left is right, right is left. Receiver (RX); The little box with all the wires plugged into it. Electrically takes commands from your TX and orders your servos around, like little slaves. Transmitter (TX); That thing you hold in your hand to fly said Helicopter. Tail Servo (SX); AKA rudder or yaw control thingy majigger. Tail in; Basically hovering with the tail towards you. Left is left, Right is right.

The old men revert back in time. Yeah theyre allowed.

First one I had was 1970. Dubro Whirly Bird I think. Torque reaction jobby where the 35 Super Tiger was mounted on top of the rotor blades whith about a 9-6 prop. The torque drove the blades in the opposite direction. All four corners were tied down with bricks so it could only go up a couple of ft. As you say about 5 secs. once cut loose. No such thing as a chopper gyro back then. Has come a long ways. Hi Flypaper, So correct, If they only knew!!! Then over the present! Big difference. No servos either, You gotta remeber rubber band "escapements" Ha! Friend of Mine has one of originals hanging like a Museum piece. Those were the days, glad the

transmiters I was referring to don't cost as much as family station wagons either!! . . . .obiron still have an E.D. single channel trans. with one button on it and an on/off switch, about as simple as they get. Also a clockwork wind up escapement about the size of an alarm clock.. Sorry for getting off track HEY Flypaper2 thats Ok. Were entittled ! The Younger demand everything now! as I was speaking to a good friend yesterday, I'm old enough they can wait! I still have a single channel kraft radio some where. think we should offer up this stuff to an R/C museum!?! . . . . obiron I am a newbie to this forum and have been away from R/C'ing for quite some time. My last encounter with a chopper goes back to the mid 70's with a DuBro Scorpion. Anybody remember those?? I had a Supertiger .46 and a Heath Radio in those days. I never got the bird to really fly but I did get pretty good at hovering and (very) slow forward flight. Most of that time was spent with planes, however. Then we moved and kids and job and yada yada yada.......haven't been wiggling the sticks for about 20 years. I recently got a Falcon 3D and find the improvements over what I used to have totally amazing. I went thru a set of rotor blades and a tail boom quickly because basically I was stupid and couldn't wait so I fired it up. Oh well. Live and learn. And Your Correct, There has been "Leaps and bounds" over the 9x6 Prop "blowing Down" on the auto gyrating mains! If fact Model helis far surpass anything the real Ones can! Actually, the Scorpion Heli was not the one you're thinking of. This one had gear drive w/fixed pitch. NOT the one that had the engine on TOP of the rotor head. My buddy back then had a Kaman Jet Ranger and all he ever did was hover but that was the only heli available with collective at the time. In order to reverse the servos the pot wires inside the servo needs to be reversed as well as the connector wires. Many of the newer servos have the pots soldered directly to the circuit board so they're really impossible. The joys of having it switchable on the trans. Long time ago, when you bought a radioset, one servo turned the opposite direction from the rest with an R marked on it. Progress. man, you "oldies" had it tough way back in the 12th century!! haha Just kidding. It's crazy hearing how things used to be. I feel special just graduating from a 2 channel I LOVE IT!! control in 98 to this fancy 6 channel control!! haha Not that I am old Andy, or anything like that but my first radio had tubes, some called them valves, in it and only one channel. It was either off or on. Didn't do And you had to drag a 200 pound wagon anything else, just turned on or off. behind you for all the batteries to power the thing