Are you confused about the difference between perfume, eau de cologne, eau de toilette and the other

forms your favourite scent comes in? The word 'perfume' itself derives from the Latin per through and fumare smoke so perhaps it's not surprising the subject is a bit hazy. With the arrival of the good weather, you may be looking for something a little lighter than the scent you use during the colder months. Each perfume house uses their own terminology and categories to classify their perfumes according to the concentration of essences or aromatic oils they contain, but the following should give you a general idea of what you're buying:

Eau de Cologne. At the bottom end of the range as far as concentration is concerned, is eau de cologne. This tends to contain about 7% essence dissolved in alcohol of 60 or 70. It is delightfully refreshing in hot weather and because it doesn't last long, it can be frequently reapplied directly to the skin. It tends to be marketed in large sizes of up to 200 ml and is often applied by spray.

Eau de toilette. Sometimes used to describe the same concentration as cologne, eau de toilette can contain up to around 10% aromatic essence. The top notes the first scent released by a perfume are dominant, making it refreshing when it is applied, and it evaporates and fades away quite quickly. Eau de toilette and cologne are the most popular forms in which fragrance is sold, and are particularly appropriate for the summer.

Eau de parfum. After the top notes have died away, the middle notes or heart notes of a perfume become noticeable. This is the focus of eau de parfum which makes it perfect to spray on hair or clothing. (Be careful with delicate fabrics such as silk, though, as they may stain.) The concentration of oils is over

15%, sometimes reaching as high as 20%. Since it is less intense than perfume extract, it is also cheaper, but it usually lasts well and is sold in small sizes.

Perfume. Also called perfume extract or extrait, this is the most expensive version of any fragrance; it's also the most beautiful because of the whole symphony of top, heart and base notes released over a period of time. This is due to the high concentration of essences as much as 40% by volume. Perfume is applied directly to the skin on pulse spots insides of the wrists, behind the ears, at the throat... The average concentration of essence in a perfume is 25%, which makes it the longest lasting of all the scent categories. Only a tiny amount is needed, which is reflected in the sizes in which it is sold.

Concentration Original Eau de Cologne flacon 1811, from Johann Maria Farina, Farina gegenber

Perfume types reflect the concentration of aromatic compounds in a solvent, which in fine fragrance is typically ethanol or a mix of water and ethanol. Various sources differ considerably in the definitions of perfume types. The concentration by percent/volume of perfume oil is as follows:

Perfume extract, or simply perfume (Extrait): 15-40% (IFRA: typical 20%) aromatic compounds Esprit de Parfum (ESdP): 15-30% aromatic compounds, a seldom used strength concentration in between EdP and perfume Eau de Parfum (EdP), Parfum de Toilette (PdT): 10-20% (typical ~15%) aromatic compounds, sometimes listed as "eau de perfume" or "millsime" Eau de Toilette (EdT): 5-15% (typical ~10%) aromatic compounds

Eau de Cologne (EdC): Chypre citrus type perfumes with 3-8% (typical ~5%) aromatic compounds Perfume mist: 3-8 aromatic compounds (typical non-alcohol solvent) Splash and After shave: 1-3% aromatic compounds

Fragrance notes
Main article: Note (perfumery) Perfume is described in a musical metaphor as having three sets of notes, making the harmonious scent accord. The notes unfold over time, with the immediate impression of the top note leading to the deeper middle notes, and the base notes gradually appearing as the final stage. These notes are created carefully with knowledge of the evaporation process of the perfume.

Top notes: The scents that are perceived immediately on application of a perfume. Top notes consist of small, light molecules that evaporate quickly. They form a person's initial impression of a perfume and thus are very important in the selling of a perfume. Also called the head notes. Middle notes: The scent of a perfume that emerges just prior to when the top notes dissipate. The middle note compounds form the "heart" or main body of a perfume and act to mask the often unpleasant initial impression of base notes, which become more pleasant with time. They are also called the heart notes. Base notes: The scent of a perfume that appears close to the departure of the middle notes. The base and middle notes together are the main theme of a perfume. Base notes bring depth and solidity to a perfume. Compounds of this class of scents are typically rich and "deep" and are usually not perceived until 30 minutes after application.

The scents in the top and middle notes are influenced by the base notes, as well the scents of the base notes will be altered by the type of fragrance materials used as middle notes. Manufacturers of perfumes usually publish perfume notes and typically they present it as fragrance pyramid, with the components listed in imaginative and abstract terms.