BBS Book (PT 6) - Jeffrey Davies

JEFFREY M.
DAVIES
SIGNATURE SELECTIONS
2516 Waukegan Road • Suite 323 • Glenview, IL 60025 • Phone: 512.919.9463 • Fax: 512.727.2453
Ch. D’Aiguilhe Querre
Côtes de Castillon
The year 2000 was the first vintage for this new wine from the Côtes de Castillon appellation - not a bad year
in which to make one’s debut! The tiny estate is owned by Emmanuel Querre, son of Michel Querre - the
peripatetic owner of several châteaux on the Right Bank (including Le Moulin in Pomerol) and also a well-
known negotiant. Emmanuel is joined by his wife, the lovely Gaëtane, who has day-to-day responsibility for
overseeing the property. The Querres have entrusted winemaking responsibilities to Jean-Michel Ferrandez,
one of Bordeaux’s unsung, but truly talented, winemakers. It is he who turned around (diametrically, one
might say) Château Citran in the early nineties - propelling it to head of the Cru Bourgeois class.
The wine takes its name from the parish of Saint Philippe d’Aiguilhe, in which the vineyards are located.
One finds most of the best vineyards of the appellation, including Joanin-Bécot, Vieux Château Champs
de Mars and Clos Louie in this same township. This is the high plateau of the appellation - an eastern
extension of the plateau of Saint Emilion with a very similar thin clay topsoil set atop a deep limestone
mother lode, thus assuring a regular, but rarely excessive, supply of moisture to the vines. The size of the
tiny vineyard was doubled in 2002, bringing it to a “whopping” 2.4 hectares (a little less than six acres). The
single-block vineyard is situated at the very top of the limestone plateau in Saint Philippe d’Aiguilhe, with
a relatively high plantation density of 6,000 vines/ha. The average age of the Querre vineyards is about 25
years. During the first two vintages, the planted acreage was comprised of 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet
Franc. However, with the acquisition of the additional 1.2 hectares in 2002, that mix changed to about 80%
Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc.
Thanks to severe pruning and careful green harvesting, yields have averaged less than 30 hls/ha under the
Querre’s stewardship. Under the direction of Jean-Michel Ferrandez, the fruit is hand-harvested at optimum
ripeness and moved to the winery, where it is sorted, destemmed, gently crushed and then fermented in
small, open-top, oak tanks. During the 18-day (on average) maceration period, the cap is regularly and
manually punched. When completed, the new wine is run off into French oak barrels (60% new, the
remainder one-wine old), wherein it is aged on its lees. The wine is then bottled unfined and unfiltered.
Needless to say, the punishing attention is unmistakeable in this truly outstanding wine.
Balthus
Bordeaux Supérieur
Balthus hails from a three hectare, rolling, hillside vineyard situated near Château de Reignac; the soil is
comprised of clay and limestone mixed with some gravel. This special site is home to 40 year old Merlot vines
planted at a density of 6,000 vines/ha. Yields are 18 hls/ha before selection and saignée - 15 hls/ha after. The
vineyard team exercises a rigorous program of debudding, deleafing and crop-thinning; all harvesting is done
exclusively by hand. A 10-day cold soak @ 6° C in small stainless steel tanks is followed by alcoholic fermentation
and a 15-day maceration in 100% new Tonnellerie Garonnaise barrels (coopered from oak selected by owner,
Yves Vatelot) using the cutting edge Oxoline system of barrel management and a patented method for breaking
up the solids in the barrel. The wine is then run off into more new barrels for the malolactic fermentation
and subsequent aging on the lees for an anticipated 19 months. Michel Rolland consults. 500 cases. 13.5%
Domaine Baptiste Boutes
Minervois
This wine is produced by the dream team at La Négly (including enologist Claude Gros) from a 30 hectare
vineyard located in Pouzols-Minervois. The average age of the vines is between 35 and 40 years old. The soils
are clay and limestone with a significant percentage of sizable rock and small stones. Harvesting is entirely
manual and usually begins the last week of September and finishes in mid-October with the Mourvèdre.
The wine is fermented in temperature-controlled cement tanks with a 7 week maceration. After malolactic
fermentation, 20% of the wine is aged on its lees in 340 liter Seguin-Moreau demi-muids and 80% in tank.
The final blend is 50% Syrah, 30% Grenache Noir, and 20% Mourvèdre. 2,500 cases are bottled unfined
and unfiltered each year.
La Bastide
Corbieres
Located five miles west of Lézignan-Corbières, this eight hectare vineyard boasts an average vine age of 25
years. The soils are a mix of clay and limestone. The vineyards are farmed responsibly using the so-called
lutte raisonnée agricultural approach. The fruit is all hand-harvested and yields are around 30 hls/ha. After a
pre-fermentation cold maceration of 7 days @ 8° C, the must is fermented and macerations run a lengthy 30
days. Microbullage is used during fermentation and aging so as to extract supple tannins while preventing
excessive oxidation. The wine is aged in French oak barrels from Seguin-Moreau, Mercurey and Boutes,
with 20% of them new and 80% one wine old. This blend of 70% Syrah and 30% Grenache Noir is bottled
unfined and unfiltered.
Domaine de Baubiac
Coteaux du Languedoc
The Domaine de Baubiac vineyards are located in the hamlet of the same name. This is just a few kilometers
northeast of the cru Pic Saint Loup, and about a five-minute drive from André Leenhardt’s Château de
Cazeneuve also in Pic Saint Loup. Not surprisingly, the soils and climatic conditions are similar here, with
poor soils in which few plants will grow. The estate is run by the Philip brothers, Hervé and Raoul.
Hervé is also an internationally renowned Professor of Geology at the University of Montpellier. In this
capacity, he has frequently been sought out by the United Nations to assist earthquake-stricken regions
throughout the world. His thorough understanding of the local geological conditions enabled him to
decide upon the appropriate varietal mix for the Baubiac vineyards. This includes Syrah, Grenache Noir,
Mourvèdre, Merlot, Roussanne and Viognier. The Merlot, Roussanne, and Viognier are used exclusively
in the estate’s two Vin de Pays d’Oc wines. As with so many of the truly top-notch wineries in the
Languedoc, Domaine de Baubiac suffers from one major drawback - quantities are painfully limited!
Château Beaulieu
Comtes de Tastes
Bordeaux Supérieur
This 54 ½ acre vineyard is planted in clay and limestone soils that are situated in the village of Salignac, 15
miles northeast of Bordeaux; it is in close proximity to the appellation of Fronsac. The well-drained south-
facing slopes of the property give credence to the name - Beaulieu means “beautiful place” in French. Under
the enlightened vineyard management of Count Guillaume de Tastes, aided since 2005 by the talented
team of consultant Stéphane Derenoncourt, the quality at this estate has soared - cover cropping, “green-
harvesting” and leaf-pulling are all practiced religiously. Consequently, yields are very low for the appellation,
ranging from two tons per acre in 2000 to less than 1.5 tons in 2001 and 2002. To put these numbers in
perspective, two tons per acre is roughly the equivalent of just one bottle of wine per vine!
The average age of the vineyard (planted with 55% Merlot, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon and 10% Cabernet
Franc) is 15 years. The vines are planted at 2,226 vines/acre; this density is twice the average of most New
World vineyards! The hand-harvested fruit undergoes a pre-fermentation cold maceration for three to five
days, after which the juice is slowly fermented in small temperature-controlled tanks for 10 to 15 days.
Extended maceration runs for as long as necessary. Malolactic fermentation takes place in barrel, 60%
of which were new in 2000. The percentage of new barrels in 2001 was even higher and included only
French oak barrels. The wine is aged on its lees for 10 months, gaining additional richness, freshness, and
complexity.
This wine is best enjoyed upon release and over the five to seven years following the vintage. Since we first
introduced Château Beaulieu with the 2000 vintage, it has consistently ranked as one of Robert Parker’s
“Sleeper’s of the Vintage” and has demonstrated that Bordeaux can indeed produce not just great wines but
also great values! It has also been lavishly praised by such French publications as Michel Bettane and Thierry
Desseauve’s Classement des Meilleurs Vins de France and in the annual Le Guide Hachette des Vins.
Château Belle-Vue
Haut-Médoc
Let’s face it, true discoveries in the Médoc are few and far between. If ever there were a great property to be
found in this sometimes disappointing area, Château Belle-Vue is it! Located on the southern fringe of the
Margaux appellation, the vineyards of this beautiful property are adjacent to those of Château Giscours. In
fact, all that seperates Belle-Vue from the prestigious area of Margaux is a small drainage ditch!
What makes this property a true find? Much of Château Belle-Vue’s vineyard consists of old vines, situated
close to those of Château La Lagune, in deep, gravelly soils. Yields are kept deliberately low by Médoc Cru
Bourgeois standards, about 40 hl/ha. Furthermore, there is an unusually high percentage of Petit Verdot in
the vineyard, a good portion of which was planted at the beginning of the twentieth century. The owner,
Rémy Fouin, is fanatical about picking fully mature grapes, and the wines of Belle-Vue, year in and year out,
are marked by their exceptional degree of ripeness. Indeed, the wines of Belle-Vue are among the “fattest”
most hedonistic Médoc wines one will ever taste.
The final wine is a usually a blend of about 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Merlot and 20% Petit Verdot.
The fruit is carefully table sorted before an extended maceration, which can often run upwards of 6 weeks.
Malolactic fermentation takes place in barrel (a significant portion of which is renewed every year) and
the lees are stirred regularly to enhance the wine’s texture and increase its complexity. The wine is aged in
barrel for about a year and a half before being bottled unfiltered. It generally has a natural alcohol content
of around 13%.
Domaine Bertrand-Bergé
Fitou
The Bertrands have been winegrowers in the tiny village of Paziols (300 inhabitants) for more than a century.
Surprisingly to many, Fitou is, in fact, the single oldest appellation contrôlée in the Languedoc, dating back
to 1948. The Bertrand family’s vineyards are located in the heart of the Fitou appellation, at about 450 feet
in altitude. You have to WANT to get there! It is at least a 45-minute drive up the long windy road from
the Mediterranean coast near Narbonne - but, it is strikingly, if spartanly, beautiful. The wines of the estate
were already winning gold medals at the 1900 World’s Fair when they bore the name of Jean Sirven. Today
vineyard and winemaking duties belong to young Jérôme Bertrand, great-great-grandson of Monsieur Sirven
who made the gold medal wines of 1900.
Bertrand-Bergé’s 74 acres are planted in clay and chalky soils, interspersed with the rounded galet stones
also found in far away Châteauneuf-du-Pape. The average age of the vines, which include Grenache
Noir, Carignan and Syrah, is a venerable 60 years. In 1993, the sparkling clean winery, replete with small
cement tanks, was equipped with a new crusher-stemmer (still rare in these parts), a horizontal press and
a refrigeration unit - so important here where the temperatures frequently run into the 100’s at harvest
time. Since 1994, Jérôme has estate-bottled his wines. These have met with the same success of those of his
great-great-grandfather 100 years ago! In 1996 we created the cuvée called “Ancestrale” as a sort of homage
to Jérôme’s great-great-grandfather. It is generally a blend of 30% old-vine (and very ripe) Carignan, 40%
Grenache and 30% Syrah. Beginning in 1998, a portion of the Syrah has been aged in French oak barrels
affording the wine extra complexity.
Under the hands-on supervision of consulting enologist, Claude Gros (of La Negly), the wines of Bertrand-
Bergé have been going from strength to strength and, I think it is fair to say, are today at the pinnacle of
the Fitou hierarchy. This has been confirmed by, among others, France’s Guide Hachette, which has given
the estate its coveted Coup de Coeur award for three years in a row! The October 2005 issue of the highly
regarded Revue du Vin de France rated Domaine Bertrand-Bergé number 13 out of the top 100 wine-
producing estates in the Languedoc-Roussillon, well ahead of many estates whose wines are considerably
more expensive.
Domaine de Boède
The vineyards here face the Mediterranean and are planted in clay and limestone soils mixed with sandstone.
The fruit is all manually harvested at optimal ripeness, then table-sorted. After thorough destemming it is
fermented traditionally with a 30-day cuvaison interspersed with gentle cap punching (pigeages). The wine
is then aged in stainless steel tanks for five months. The blend is a typically Mediterranean mix of 50%
Cinsault, 30% Grenache Noir, 10% Mourvèdre and 10% Carignan.
Château Le Bondieu
Montravel, Bergerac
This estate is run by the young Didier Feytout. His first vintage since taking over from his uncle was the
1990. Previously, Didier had been the estate manager at a well-known property in the Premières Côtes de
Bordeaux. I must say that I have rarely met such a hard-working, dedicated winegrower! Alone - that is to
say completely unassisted except at harvest time - Feytout attends to his 19 acre vineyard, about half of
which is devoted to the production of his ripe, fresh and fruity Montravel. It seems no coincidence that his
family name (Feytout) is the homonym for the French expression fait tout, literally “do it all!” For he does
“do it all,” from the vineyards to the cellars, from the bottling to the selling!
Château Le Bondieu lays in the small village of Saint Antoine-De-Breuilh. The soils here are a thin, mix
of alluvial sand and light gravel atop a bed of coarser gravel and ribot, the local term for the very compact
impermeable layer of clay. Didier Feytout’s white wine vineyard is about fifteen years old and is meticulously
tended. The wine it produces is an astutely crafted, aromatic and suavely fruity expression of the three
traditional Bordeaux varieties that are often blended in the following proportions: 60% Sémillon, 30%
Sauvignon Blanc and 10% Muscadelle du Bordelais. It is a wine that is dry yet ripe, with vibrant fruit. One
can expect that the quality of Château Le Bondieu Montravel will only get better as the vines get older.
Bord’Eaux
Merlot
Bordeaux
Oswaldo Hernandez, the Venezuelan winemaker behind this outstanding value, was preparing to play major
league baseball for the Yankees when life took an unexpected turn and he ended up in oenology school at the
University of Bordeaux. After completing his studies, Mr. Hernandez held positions at Ch. Bonnet (owned
by the Lurton family of Cheval Blanc and Yquem) and Ch. d’Aggasac in Bordeaux, as well as Las Bodegas
Pomar in his native Venezuela.
The wine is made from 100% Merlot grapes grown in a 10.23 hectare vineyard. The vines, which have an
average age of 18 years, are planted 5,000/ha on soils that are a mixture of clay and limestone. After careful
selection on the vine and in the cellars, the grapes are fermented with specially selected yeast strains at
carefully controlled temperature. The must is pumped over ten times daily during fermentation. Everything
is done in stainless steel to capture the freshness and intensity of the fruit.
This is wine is crafted in a style that is modern and concentrated, while still maintaining a smooth and
elegant character. The innovative bag-in-box design allows the wine to stay fresh for as long as two months
after opening, although it is so delicious we’ve never seen it last that long!
Domaine de la Butte
Bourgeuil
In 2002, Jacky Blot, owner of Dom. de la Taille aux Loups, created this 15-hectare red-wine producing estate
situated about an hour to the west of Montlouis in the appellation of Bourgeuil. Not surprisingly, since he
has been the Loire Valley agent for Maison Louis Jadot for years, and an admirer of its director/winemaker,
Jacques Lardière, Jacky has fashioned his approach in Bourgueil after that of the best Burgundian growers,
producing four different, site-specific, wines from his 15-hectare, exclusively hillside, vineyard. These reflect
the well-known fact in Burgundy that the greatest wines rarely come from the bottom or from the top
of the Côte d’Or slopes but rather from the middle of these. The same is true for Jacky’s two top wines,
Perrières and Mi-Pente. To my way of thinking, these wines personify a vinous synthesis of Burgundy
and Bordeaux with the soil, slopes and vineyard micro-management of the former – at the service of the
somewhat capricious varietal of the latter (Cabernet Franc). These are already among the very best wines,
boasting aromatic complexity, ripe tannins and velvety texture that I have yet to taste from Bourgeuil in the
past three decades.
Clos des Truffiers
From a 2.6 hectare vineyard situated at 1,000’ in altitude, above the cities of Béziers and Pézenas and outside
the village of Saint Pargoire. It was the mayor of Saint Pargoire who originally planted this vineyard in 1968
with Syrah and 0.5 hectares of Marsanne. Vines are planted at 5,000 vines/ha in compressed clay (grès) and
limestone soils; yields are 13 hls/ha before selection and 10 hls/ha after. As at its sister property (La Porte
du Ciel from La Négly), Clos des Truffiers is harvested exclusively by hand and table-sorted three times
before falling by gravity into a single, one-wine old, Seguin-Moreau French oak tank. A 5-day cold soak @
10° C is followed by a 60-day maceration with microbullage. The wine is then aged for 26 months in 100%
new French oak barrels from Seguin-Moreau and Darnajou. 600 6-bottle cases were bottled unfined and
unfiltered in late February 2006. 16%.
Clos Manou
Médoc
This wine epitomizes the term micro-cuvée. From a minute 0.25 hectare (0.11 acre) vineyard of very old vines
that were planted in 1936, the young former professional bicyclist Stéphane Dief produces just 800 to 900
bottles annually. The property is located in the northern Médoc village of Saint Christoly, north of Saint
Estèphe, and not far from the Gironde River estuary. The vineyard is planted with 80% Merlot, 15% Cabernet
Sauvignon and 5% Petit Verdot.
As in the Médoc’s finest first growths, the vines are planted 10,000 per hectare in deep, gravelly soils on rolling
hills. Yields run about 30 hectoliters per hectare (1.5 tons per acre). All of the fruit is hand-harvested into
small plastic lugs. Once back at the tiny but meticulously maintained winery, the grapes are hand-sorted and
hand-destemmed, and then sorted again prior to being manually crushed. The must is then poured by hand into
several tiny oak vats. A pre-fermentation cold maceration is followed by a 25-day cuvaison. Once fermentation
is completed, the new wine is pressed by hand in a miniature basket press. Malolactic fermentation and aging
take place in 100% new French oak barrels. Ageing lasts for 15-18 months depending on the vintage.
Robert Parker gave the 2005 vintage a score of 90-92 in April of 2006 and had the following to say, “Fourteen
percent natural alcohol, sensational richness, full body, and plenty of power, muscle, and density are found in
this impressively-endowed blend of 50% Merlot, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Petit Verdot. The 2005
Clos Manou should age handsomely for up to a decade.”
Clos Saint Julien &
Ch. Petit Gravet-Aîné
St. Emilion
Clos Saint Julien

This estate is owned by Catherine Papon-Nouvel, also the owner of Château Petit Gravet Aîné in St. Emilion
and Château Peyrou in the Côtes de Castillon. The 1.2 hectare vineyard is situated just behind Soutard,
atop the limestone plateau of Saint Emilion. A very thin layer of topsoil sits covers a limestone mother lode;
the vineyard is comprised of 50% Merlot (80 years old) and 50% Cabernet Franc (40 years old), planted at
5,500 vines/ha. The grapes are hand-harvested at yields of 25 hls/ha. The wine is fermented in oak tanks,
with malo and sur lies aging take place in 100% new barrels from Taransaud and Berthomieu. 250 cases.
14.8%
Château Petit Gravet-Aîné

A 2.35 hectare vineyard in the Saint Emilion foothills, it is situated right next to (west of ) Canon-La
Gaffelière; deep, sandy/clay soils are home to an unusual encépagement of 80% Cabernet Franc and 20%
Merlot (average age of the vines is 70 years). Yields are 25 hls/ha, and all grapes are hand-harvested and then
table-sorted. An 8-day cold soak @ 5° C is followed by fermentation in stainless stell with microbullage under
the cap; malo and aging takes place in 100% new French oak from Taransaud, Berthomieu and Sylvain with
limited cliquage (oxygenation) and bâtonnage for up to 18 months. Less than 700 cases. 14%.
Château de l’Estang
Côtes de Castillon
Château de l’Estang is truly a hidden gem. Located in the small village of St. Genès de Castillon, it is just 2
kilometers from the well known AOC of St. Emilion, and in fact the estate’s 26.5 hectares of vine are planted
in limestone soils, which can also be found in St. Emilion. The vines, which have an average age of 20 years,
are made up of 75% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon and are planted 5,000/hectare.
Harvesting is done exclusively by hand. The wine is fermented in thermoregulated stainless steel with 2 to 4
weeks of maceration, depending on the vintage. It is then aged in a combination of 25% new oak, 50% 1 and 2
year oak and 25% tank, during which time the lees are regularly stirred. Prodution is around 100,000 bottles.
Château Faizeau
Vieilles Vignes
Montagne-St. Emilion
Until the late nineties, Château Faizeau was the property of the Mr. and Mrs. Noël Raynaud, also the owners
of Châteaux La Croix de Gay and La Fleur de Gay in Pomerol. Their daughter, Chantal Lebreton, managed
the property. Today, Chantal owns the property outright and has full responsibility for its management. The
vineyard is planted to 85% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Cabernet Franc. However, the “Vieilles
Vignes” cuvée , produced with the same exacting attention as the Raynaud family’s Pomerol wines, is composed of
100% Merlot, much of which is from a plot of very old vines planted prior to 1910! Set on a steep southeasterly-
facing hillside called “Calon,” this 30-acre vineyard is one of the oldest and best situated in the so-called satellite
appellation of Montagne-St. Emilion.
Recent vintages have seen Chantal reducing yields to a very low 30 to 35 hls/ha (1.4 to 1.7 tons/acre) in order
to facilitate ripening while further concentrating the juice. Harvesting continues to be done exclusively by
hand. Macerations are lengthy – ripeness permitting – and a portion of the malolactic is done in new French
oak barrels. She has gradually pushed the percentage of new Darnajou French barrels used to age the wine up
to some 50%. Aging in barrel continues to run 18 months on average. She bottles Faizeau unfiltered and only
when absolutely necessary will she fine the wine before bottling. Since taking full control of the property,
Chantal has been producing some of the most complex and concentrated wines ever to come from Faizeau.
The consulting enologist at Faizeau is Dany Rolland, wife of the famed Michel Rolland. Understandably then,
the emphasis at Faizeau is on harvesting super-ripe fruit, which subsequently benefits from warm lengthy
fermentations and the savvy use of new oak during the maturing process. The result here is particularly elegant.
Faizeau “Vieilles Vignes” is marked by vanillin and rich earthy truffle notes on the nose. It is full-bodied and
concentrated with a velvety character on the palate that only old vine Merlot can provide. The tannins, while
evident, are supple and savory making this a wine that can be enjoyed relatively soon after their release. However,
the best vintages age gracefully for at least a decade. The wines of Château Faizeau are an affordable substitute to
the wines of neighboring Saint Emilion, where wines of comparable quality easily run twice the price.
Château Fleur Cardinale
St. Emilion
This 18.5 hectare (45.7 acre) vineyard in the parish of St. Etienne-de-Lisse is nestled between Château de
Valandraud and a portion of Château Rol Valentin. The estate was purchased from the Asséo family by
Dominique Decoster and his wife in late 2000. Prior to acquiring Fleur Cardinale, Mr. Decoster owned and
managed Havilland, one of the world’s top manufacturers of porcelain, based in Limoges, France.
Currently there are 15 hectares (37 acres) in production and these are planted with 6,000 vines per hectare
(2,428 vines per acre). The average age of the vines is 40 years. The soils are a mix of clay atop deep limestone
soils. In the cooler clay soils, it is the Merlot vine that truly excels. Consequently, the encépagement, or the
planted acreage, is comprised of mostly Merlot (70%) with equal amounts of the two Cabernets playing
supporting roles.
This up-and-comer has quickly become a highly sought after label, thanks in large part to the following
critical praise from Robert Parker’s Wine Advocate:
2004 Fleur Cardinale 90-92

Château Gibalaux-Bonnet
Minervois
Château Gibalaux-Bonnet is located in the village of Laure-Minervois, which is itself located in a sector of
the Minervois appellation called the “Balcons de l’Aude” (literally the Balconies of the Aude River). This
is one of the driest parts of the Minervois, almost completely isolated from the rains that blow in from the
Atlantic to the west. Even the precipitation that comes up from the Mediterranean has lost much of its
intensity by the time it arrives above Laure-Minervois. Therefore, the total annual average rainfall is less than
19 inches! Not surprisingly, the local vegetation is typically Mediterranean with the proverbially Provençal
garrigue and green oak everywhere present.
The Bonnet family has owned the estate since shortly after WWII. They have steadily sought to improve
the quality of the encépagement (varietal mix) of their vineyards and to better acclimate their different grape
varieties to the mix of soils and subsoils one finds in this unique region.
Vins Henry Fessy
Beaujolais
The Fessy family has been cultivating its vineyards in Beaujolais for five generations. Today, brothers Henry
and Serge Fessy run the business, which is proud to still be family-owned. The offices and winery are located
in the hamlet of Bel-Air near the town of Saint Jean d’Ardières - the heart of the Brouilly appellation.
The Fessy’s cellars are in fact contiguous to their cru Brouilly vineyard called the “Domaine du Plateau
de Bel-Air.” Henry Fessy is at once a vineyard owner, winemaker and successful negociant. In this latter
capacity, he buys both grapes and juice from growers throughout the Beaujolais region with whom he has
established long-term relationships. He then vinifies and ages these in his Bel-Air cellars. His own single-
vineyard wines bear the name of the vineyard from which they are issued. Examples of these include the
aforementioned Brouilly and his superlative Beaujolais-Villages wine called “Domaine des 40 Ecus.” All of
the wines mentioned above are produced from vineyards with high plantation densities (as much as 10,000
vines per hectare), all grapes are hand harvested.
The Fessys are leading suppliers of bottled Beaujolais and cru Beaujolais wines to Paris’ bustling and very
demanding bistro trade, and, until recently, little of their production made it to the United States, as there
simply was not enough to go around. I have been able to convince the Fessys to provide limited amounts of
their domain-bottled Beaujolais-Villages and Cru Beaujolais wines to a few select markets in the U.S. This
affords wine lovers in these markets a chance to savor Beaujolais as it is truly supposed to be: fruity, vibrant,
racy and devoid of the hot, heavy-handed, headache-inducing style - the result of excessive chaptalization and
dubious blending that is, alas, all too common in wines from this region. We are proud of our partnership
with Vins Henry Fessy, truly a breed apart!
Les Angelots de Gracia
St. Emilion
The owner of this property, Michel Gracia, is widely recognized throughout Bordeaux as one of the most
talented restorers of the region’s vast collection of 18th century freestone buildings. He and his company have
participated in the restoration of some of Bordeaux’s most celebrated châteaux and historical monuments.
Michel brings to his wine the same near-fanatical attention to detail. His 4.5 acre vineyard is situated on the
hillside just east of the village of Saint-Emilion in Saint-Laurent-des-Combes. There he cultivates roughly
80% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Cabernet Sauvignon. Yields can be as low as 20 hls/ha (about
0.9 tons/acre), arguably the lowest of any Saint-Emilion wine, grand cru classé or not! The fruit is hand-
harvested in late September into small plastic lugs then quickly transported to his tiny winery in the heart of
the town of Saint-Emilion. There the fruit is individually hand-sorted and hand-stemmed, grape-by-grape,
ensuring that only the ripest cleanest fruit makes its way into the hand-operated crusher. The freshly pressed
juice is then poured, not pumped, into two small cement tanks where it undergoes primary fermentation.
Once completed, the new wine was transferred to 100% new oak barrels from three different coopers.
Therein, the malolactic fermentation took place.
In April of 2006 Robert Parker gave the 2005 Angelots de Gracia a barrel rating of 91-93 and had the
following to say, “From the idiosyncratic proprietor of Gracia, this tiny garagiste operation has fashioned a
provocative blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc with 13+% alcohol. Its inky/blue/purple hue is
accompanied by scents of blueberries, white flowers, and black currants. Deep and rich, with a wonderful
minerality, abundant nuances, fresh acidity, and stunning concentration (from incredibly tiny yields of 21
hectoliters per hectare), this is a major league claret that should drink well for two decades or more.”
l’Agly
Côtes du Roussillon Villages
This up-and-coming estate in the Roussillon posseses a spectacular 10 hectare vineyard, situated less than
one kilometer from the Mediterranean, northeast of Perpignan. It is planted at 4,500-5,500 vines/ha in two
soil types: granite and clay/limestone. Average age of the vines is 50 years. The varietal mix is Syrah (40%),
Grenache Noir (25%), Carignan (20%) and Mourvèdre (15%). The vineyard management is serious and
includes such qualitative practices as mechanical tilling, desuckering, debudding, crop-thinning, etc. The
fruit is hand-harvested between the end of September and middle of October and then table-sorted. Yields
are low, usually just 30 hls/ha. After an extended cold soak, the juice is fermented in small, 30 hectoliter
cement tanks with a total maceration time of 30 days. Microbullage is used during fermentation but not
during the aging. Aging takes place in a combination of 225 liter and 400 liter barrels from Seguin-Moreau
and Radoux of which 60% are new and 40% are one-wine old. The wine spends about 12 months on its
lees with no racking. The final blend is about 40% Grenache Noir, and roughly 30% each of Syrah and
Mourvèdre. Less than 2,000 cases are produced each year. Claude Gros is the consulting enologist.
Jean Faux
Bordeaux Supérieur
This estate posseses a six hectare southfacing vineyard (about 4.5 hectares are currently in production) that
sits just across the Dordogne River from the picturesque town of Castillon-La Bataille. Plantation density
is very high at 7,400 vines/ha. The hillside vineyards are planted in clay and limestone soils with 80%
Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc with an average vine age of 25 years. The first vintage under the new
owner, Pascal Collotte (longtime Sales Manager for the Saury cooperage), was 2003. Yields in 2005 were
39 hls/ha before, and 31 hls/ha after, selection and saignée. A meticulous farmer, Pascal mechanically tills
the soils and practices deleafing and green harvests for his vines, which are subsequently hand harvested.
After table sorting, the grapes are fermented in a combination of cement and stainless steel tanks. The post-
fermentation solids are pressed using a modern version of the age-old basket press, which, while slower than
bladder presses, is extremely gentle. Malolactic and aging take place in 40% new and 60% one-wine old
barrels, all from...Saury! Less than 1,670 cases are produces annually. Stéphane Derenoncourt and his able
team consult.
Château Luchey-Halde
Pessac-Léognan
Château Luchey-Halde is located in greater Bordeaux, within the prestigious appellation of Pessac-Léognan.
The land on which the estate sits has been inhabited since the time of the Romans, and Château Luchey-
Halde still practices the very ancient Bordeaux tradition of vine-growing. It was in fact the Romans who
first planted vines on the grounds that would become Château Luchey-Halde - on the pebble-strewn ridges
known as “Graves” that surround the historic city center of Bordeaux. The noble houses of Luchey and of
Saint-Angel (the name previously given to Halde) appear on the map drawn up by Cassini in 1760. Over
the centuries, the reputation for the excellence of Graves wines, along with the high quality of this terroir,
shielded both Luchey and Halde holdings from being turned over to non-viticultural uses.
The exceptionally deep gravelly soils and gently sloping hilltops immediately bordering the city of Bordeaux
have been proven to be an exceptional terroir - the red wine of Château Luchey-Halde is a truly singular
expression of Pessac-Léognan. It is a traditional wine blended in such a way as to unite the finesse of the
Cabernet Franc grape, Cabernet Sauvignon’s aging potential and the round and fruity flavours characteristic
of Merlot. The unique personality of Luchey-Halde comes from the addition of Petit Verdot, which lends
complexity to the wine’s aroma.
The white wine of Château Luchey-Halde is made in the tradition of the most renowned white wines of
Pessac-Léognan. These are some of the only Bordeaux white wines to be vinified and matured in oak barrels,
techniques that are more common to the great whites of Burgundy - these are truly white vins de garde. The
blend consists of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, the exact proportions vary from year to year. All of the
grapes are harvested by hand and meticulously sorted. The wine is matured in oak barrels for 10 months.
Luchey-Halde blanc is a beautiful pale yellow colour with shades of green. The Sauvignon Blanc contributes
aromas of white flowers and grapefruit, which combine with the round and fat qualities of the Sémillon to
produce a wine that is both powerful and long, yet still retains its elegance.
Mas d’Auzières
Mas d’Auzières is located in the hills north of Montpellier. Its 13 hectare (32 acre) vineyard spreads over
two parishes, Guzargues and Assas. The planted acreage is a mix of two clones of Syrah (65%), Grenache
Noir (27%), Mourvèdre (7%) and 1% Marsanne and Roussanne. There is no Carignan, Cinsault, Aramon
or Alicante! The average age of the vines – and this largely explains the quality of the varietal mix – is 11
years.
The soils here are a mix of rock hard clay (grès in French), rocks and shards of limestone in varying shapes
and sizes - these are locally referred to as éclats or bursts. The ancient and deep soils provide excellent
drainage. The surroundings include the typical garrigues, underbrush and pine trees and make for a very wild
unspoiled setting. Temperatures can be scorchingly hot during summer days and very cool at night, resulting
in a slow ripening of the grapes in which tannins and sugars mature simultaneously.
The new no frills cellar was designed and built by the owners, Irène Tolleret and her husband Philippe, an
agricultural engineer. Their first vintage was 2003, not an easy year in which to debut, but a high quality
one nonetheless. The cellar is partially underground allowing Irène to do most everything by gravity flow.
The fermentation tanks are epoxy-lined cement, which provide excellent temperature inertia. Total transit
time from vineyard to tank is rarely more than five minutes, thereby minimizing premature oxidation of the
fruit. The fruit is totally destemmed and the cap regularly punched by hand with occasional pumping over.
The fruit-driven Éclats cuvée is aged entirely in tank while the more “serious” Bois de Périé blend does its
malo and is aged in 100% new French oak barrels.
Mas de la Barben
In 1999, Marcel and Véronique Hermann purchased the Mas de la Barben estate, located just outside the
Mediterranean city of Nîmes. The family estate spreads over 126 hectares (311 acres), of which 105 hectares
(259 acres) are classified in the Coteaux du Languedoc appellation. At present, 63 hectares (156 acres) are
planted. This is divided into 55 hectares (136 acres) in AOC Coteaux du Languedoc - Terroir de Sommières
and 8 hectares (20 acres) in the Vin de Pays d’Oc. The soil is predominantly clay and limestone mixed with
large gravel (galets). The climate is Mediterranean, marked by the strong mistral winds that blow down
through the Rhone Valley - these drying winds are more of a factor here than in the western part of the
Coteaux du Languedoc appellation (the neighboring Hérault department). This relatively hot and windy
climate results in more water stress; consequently, the vines have to drive their roots deep down into the soil
to find the necessary water resources locked in the underlying limestone substrata.
For the past three years, the estate has practiced lutte raisonnée, a farming philosophy that employs a strict
minimum of pesticides, herbicides and fertilizers. In 2003 an eight hectare block of the estate’s AOC
vineyards was commited to study the benefits of biodynamic farming.
Château Méjean
Graves
This 5.2 hectare vineyard of 5-year old vines - 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Sauvignon planted at a density
of 6,666 vines/ha - is favorably located, with soils containing Garonnaises and Mindel gravel. The soil is
mechanically tilled and every other row is cover cropped. Yields are kept low, about 39 hls/ha. The fruit is
hand-harvested into small plastic cagettes beginning in the middle of September for Merlot and the end of
September for Cabernet. The grapes are placed in a cold box for 12 hours @ 5° C prior to crush, which is
followed by a cold soak for 4 days @ 12° C. A 24-day maceration in stainless steel tanks is complimented by
microbullage under the cap. The wine is aged on its lees for the first four months, with a total of 13 months
in 45% new and 25% one-wine old barrels from Nadalié (25%) and Tonnellerie Bordelaise (75%). 30% is
raised in tank. The blend is usually about 85% Merlot and 15% Cabernet. 13.5%
Château Monestier La Tour
Bergerac
Dating back to the 14th century, Château Monestier La Tour dominates the village of Monestier. It is the
heart of a property that covers more than 100 hectares, of which almost half are located in the Bergerac
and Saussignac appellations. The property was acquired by Philip de Haseth-Möller in 1998 and is now
completely restored. Passionately attached to the vineyard, it is his ambition to make wines of an ever
increasing quality. The vineyards are planted with the traditional grape varieties of the region: Merlot,
Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon for the red; Sauvignon Blanc, Sémillon and Muscadelle for the
white. The majority of the production is aged in oak barrels to enhance the wine’s texture and add complexity
to its aromas. The state-of-the-art wine making equipment, along with the expertise of consultant Stéphane
Derenoncourt, guarantees consistently high quality wines.
Château de la Négly
The vineyards here are planted in a mountain-framed valley that leads right down to the Mediterranean. The
view of the “Lion’s Gulf ” from the terrace of the imposing château is stunningly beautiful. The vineyards
include Syrah, Mourvèdre, old vine Carignan, Grenache Noir and even some 40-year old Tempranillo!
Like so many properties in the Languedoc, for years the wines were sold off in bulk to the local co-op and
the négociant trade. The prices the wines fetched were so ridiculously low that the owners were hardly
encouraged to do anything but produce as much fruit and wine as their vineyards would possibly allow. That
is until the estate was purchased by Jean Rosset. Since Mon. Rosset has taken control of La Négly, things
have been rapidly changing and this is estate is fast becoming a true superstar of French wine.
Jean’s efforts are being closely guided by one of the most interesting and competent young enologists I have
met in the Languedoc (where, it is true, they are not rife!). The late thirtyish, bespectacled and soft-spoken,
Claude Gros is both a very competent, analytical taster and a very talented lab technician of the highest
order. His vineyard knowledge and his work with the analysis of polyphenols to determine physiological
ripeness and appropriate harvest dates are unparalleled in the Languedoc. His pioneering work with advanced
fining techniques is also exciting to follow, especially in side-by-side tastings. With Claude as his hands-on
consultant, Jean Rosset’s wines at La Négly have continued to progress in spectacular fashion.
We are especially proud of the fact that in the Sixth Edition of The Wine Buyer’s Guide, Robert Parker
rates Château de la Négly among the five top estates in the Languedoc-Roussillon, giving it his *****
(Outstanding) rating.
La Brise Marine
La Brise Marine (literally, “sea breeze”) is Négly’s only white wine. This refined, dry white wine is a blend of
60% Bourboulenc, 30% Grenache Blanc, and 10% Marsanne, produced from very modest yields of hand-
harvested and hand-sorted fruit. Only the ripest, healthiest grapes are pressed in a state-of-the-art pneumatic
press. The must is then cold-settled. After three weeks of fermentation and maceration, the new wine is aged
on its lees for six to eight months. It is bottled in the spring following the vintage with minimal fining and
only “cosmetic” filtration. Complex aromas of white flowers, dried peaches and apricots intermingle with
hints of banana, vanilla, pineapple, and fresh almonds. Medium-full bodied with refreshing underlying
acidity, it will develop nicely in the bottle for at least two to three years after the vintage. Just 750 cases are
produced annually.
Les Embruns
Les Embruns (literally, “sea spray”) is one of Négly’s two rosé wines produced using the saignée technique
whereby a small amount of juice is run off after a very brief period of skin contact (variable as a function
of the vintage). This truly exceptional rosé is a blend of 50% Syrah and 50% Grenache Noir, produced
from ludicrously low yields – 25 hls/ha (1.8 tons/acre) – of hand-harvested fruit. The tanks are bled, per
the saignée technique, after four to eight hours of skin contact. Fermentation plus maceration runs three
weeks after which the new wine is aged on its lees for extra richness until bottling in the spring following the
vintage. The savory, food-worthy result is this pale, salmon-colored, rosé whose aromas are infinitely more
complex than those normally associated with rosé wines. There are subtle notes of peaches, strawberries and
almonds on the nose while the palate is at once full-bodied yet buoyant and racy. Less than 700 cases of this
exceptional rosé are produced each year.
La Côte
La Côte literally means “the coast” or even “the slope”. Both are justified in this case because the vineyards
are situated on gently sloping hillsides that lead right down to the coast and to the so-called “Lion’s Gulf ”
that is actually a local portion of the Mediterranean. This is a provocative blend of 50% old vine Carignan
and 50% Grenache Noir produced from very modest yields of hand-harvested and hand-sorted fruit. After
fermentation, the Grenache is aged in small, French oak tanks while the Carignan is aged in a combination
of small oak tanks and one and two-wine old barrels. It benefits further from the injection of microscopic
amounts of pure oxygen, a technique called microbullage. This allows for the controlled oxidation of the
tannins, thereby fixing the color and softening the tannic impression. It is very lightly fined and bottled
unfiltered under the expert guidance of hands-on enologist Claude Gros. This full-throttle wine surprises
by its saturated, purple-black color, the intensity and purity of its violet, red and black berry fruit aromas,
coupled with a velvety texture and polished tannins. Delicious upon release, it drinks well over the next two
to five years.
La Falaise
Moving up the slope, one arrives at the famous cliff that gives its name to the area, the Massif de la Clape.
This majestic cliff (falaise in French) cradles the Négly vineyards, and inspires the name of this blend. This
is a concentrated, flavor-packed blend of 60% Syrah, 30% Grenache Noir, and 10% Mourvèdre, produced
from very low yields (30 hls/ha) of hand-harvested and hand-sorted fruit. The Syrah is fermented in the
same small oak tanks that have previously been used for one vintage each of La Porte du Ciel and Clos des
Truffiers. The other varietals are fermented in cement tanks. The wine does its malo and is subsequently
aged in 50% new and 50% one-wine old, thin-staved, French (75%) and Russian (25%) oak barrels. The
Mourvèdre, on the other hand, is aged in 400-liter French oak barrels called demi-muids. Aged for 11 to
14 months, it is bottled. Deep ruby-purple in color, this powerful, yet elegant, wine reveals well-defined,
forceful raspberry and blackcurrant aromas. On the palate, its pure blackberry flavors mingle with subtle
scents of vanillin and clove while its velvety texture is framed with ample, but polished, tannins. Eminently
approachable upon release, especially when decanted, it provides real enjoyment over the next five to seven
years.
La Porte du Ciel
Finally, there is the luxury cuvée, La Porte du Ciel. This is La Négly’s supernal cuvée whence the name,
i.e. “Heaven’s Door” (Dylan, Clapton and even Guns & Roses fans will remember). Painstakingly crafted
from 100% Syrah, the super ripe fruit of vines planted in the early 1990’s. Yields run an incredibly low 14
hls/ha (3/4 tons/acre). The fruit is entirely hand-harvested into small plastic crates. These are stored in a
refrigerated truck until they are sorted. At the winery, three successive crews sort the grapes from each crate
before and after the destemming, to eliminate any under ripe or less-than-healthy berries. These are then
gently crushed immediately above a single, 50-hectoliter, open-top, French oak fermenter from Seguin-
Moreau. It is used to ferment just one vintage of its “sister” wine, Clos des Truffiers, before being used to
produce a single vintage of La Porte du Ciel.
After an eight-day cold soak, fermentation ensues. Extended maceration in most vintages runs a full 60
days! The still warm wine is run off into 100% new, thin-staved, medium-toast, French oak barrels. After
maturing for 18 months, it is bottled unfined and. This succulent wine reveals a purple-black color, intense,
complex aromas of blackberries and cassis with hints of black pepper. Subtle notes of vanillin and mocha
underscore the fruit while the opulent texture is framed by ample, melt-in-your-mouth, tannins. This is
clearly the most hedonistic wine produced at La Négly. It drinks extremely well over the decade following
the vintage and quite probably, well beyond! Since the first vintage was only the 1997, we really just don’t
know – yet. About 2,700 to 4,000 bottles, not cases, and about 150 magnums are produced annually!
Pelan
Côtes de Francs
In 1997, owner Régis Moro, who also owns Vieux Château Champs de Mars in next-door Castillon, began
producing just 400 cases of a super-cuvée called simply “Pelan.” This unique creation is produced from
selected plots of Château Pelan-Bellevue’s 44.5 acre vineyard that is planted with 40% Cabernet Sauvignon,
15% Cabernet Franc and 45% Merlot. The average age of the vines is nearly 30 years, quite old for this
particular area. The soil is predominantly clay atop an iron-rich subsoil. In fact, it is quite similar to the
soils found in the best part of the Pomerol plateau, only a few miles to the west as the crow flies. Régis is
meticulous in his control of the physiological maturity of his fruit, performing as many as four different
analyses prior to actually harvesting. Yields for this blend run a mere 30 hls/ha, the rough equivalent of only
1.4 tons per acre - and it shows!
Once at the winery, the fruit is table-sorted then destemmed prior to crush. The juice is fermented in a single
small oak fermenter from Seguin-Moreau that is fitted with a stainless steel coil allowing for temperature
control. Extended macerations, depending on proper ripeness and the health of the fruit, run 60 or more
days! The malolactic fermentation and subsequent aging on the lees take place in 100% new oak barrels.
Barrel-aging lasts for 18 months prior to bottling of the wine, which is never filtered. The structure is firm
but not austere, with elegant black berry fruit and fine tightly-knit tannins. This blend of 80% Cabernet
Sauvignon and 20% Merlot is a powerfully fashioned red Bordeaux, unabashedly Cabernet in character!
Out of only 500 cases produced, we are privileged to get 150 cases of this extremely concentrated, near-
black wine, for the U.S. market!
Château Puech-Haut
The striking rolling hillside vineyards of Château Puech-Haut are located some six miles northeast of the
Mediterranean city of Montpellier, above the little village of Saint Drézéry. From these sloping vineyards
one can just barely notice the Mediterranean Sea, whose cooling breezes are so instrumental in the extended
“hang time” that the grapes enjoy. This extra time on the vine allows the grapes to achieve true (phenolic)
ripeness - that is to say ripeness of the tannins.
Puech, in the local Occitanian dialect, refers to a hill; haut is the French word for high. The estate takes its
name from its setting - a relatively high promontory. Hillside settings such as this one are prized throughout
the wine-making world for their superior drainage and sun exposure. The high hills of Puech-Haut are the
proud home to some of the Languedoc’s greatest wines!
R. & L. Legras
Chouilly, Champagne
For more than 200 years, six successive generations of the Legras family have been growing wine in the
town of Chouilly, located in the heart of the Côte de Blancs. It is worth noting that Chouilly is the single
largest village in the entire Champagne region to produce grand cru Chardonnay. Today, the family owns or
controls nearly 60 acres of exclusively grand cru vineyards in their hometown. These are planted to the noble
Chardonnay grape from which Legras produces three distinctive cuvées of Blanc de Blancs Champagnes.
Legras also controls several acres of grand cru Pinot Noir in the village of Ambonnay. This they employ in
small amounts in the production of their strawberry-red Brut Rosé - a racy blanc de blancs base with about
10% Pinot Noir added for color and flavor.
R. & L. Legras Champagnes are distinguished not only by the fact that they are produced from 100% grand
cru Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, but also by the punishing standards adhered to by the Legras family. Each
cuvée spends an extended amount of time on its lees - a minimum of 24 months (but usually closer to
36, more twice the legal minimum) for the Non-vintage Brut, and a minimum of seven years (but usually
more) for the luxury cuvée called Saint-Vincent (made only in select vintages from 40 to 50-year old vines).
Furthermore, the quality of the Legras wines, made only from free-run juice (jus de goutte), is such that they
receive exceptionally low dosages at disgorgement - less than 0.7% for the non-vintage Brut and as little as
0.4% for the Cuvée Saint Vincent (the legislation allows for up to 1.5%!).
Legras Champagnes are appreciated by France’s, and indeed Europe’s, most celebrated restaurants. It is the
house Champagne at such superlative multi-starred Michelin establishments as Alain Ducasse in Paris,
Claude Terrail’s La Tour d’Argent, Guy Savoy, Alain Dutournier’s Carré des Feuillants and Bernard Loiseau’s
restaurant in Saulieu. Not surprisingly, R. & L. Legras is rated among Robert Parker’s list of ****(Excellent
Producers) as one of “The Best Producers of 100% Chardonnay Blanc de Blancs.” He goes on to add that
“there has been a tremendous influx of high-quality Champagnes from small firms. . . some of these small
houses (including Legras) produce splendid wine worthy of a search of the marketplace.”
Château de Reignac
Bordeaux Supérieur
Château de Reignac sits atop the highest point in the parish of Saint Loubes, overlooking a 135 hectare clay
and gravel rise that includes a single 80 hectare block of vines. The original château was built by Seigneur
Baude de Peyron in the 16th century and was subsequently remodeled in the 18th and 19th centuries.
In the late 1800’s a central courtyard was added that features the signature wrought iron railings. Later a
remarkable greenhouse was installed, designed by none other than Gustave Eiffel. The present owners, Yves
and Stephanie Vatelot, purchased Reignac in 1990 and have worked continuously ever since to maintain the
estate’s historic roots while introducing numerous innovations.
The estate’s primary goal is to produce grapes that are both ripe and healthy. This is achieved through
a stringent program of vineyard management that includes debudding, deleafing and crop thinning. A
minimal amount of organic fertilizer is used - the aim is to cultivate a naturally well balanced vineyard.
Under the supervision of consulting oenologist Michel Roland, the vineyard team has learned that patience
at harvest time is rewarded. Hand harvesting is employed exclusively, assuring that only ripe and healthy
grapes are picked. The grapes are loaded in to shallow plastic lugs and taken directly to the winery, this
minimizes any damage to the grapes and subsequent oxidation of the must. In the winery, a team of 16
highly skilled workers sort the grapes twice on vibrating tables, once before destemming and once after. This
stringent selection process removes any unwanted debris and ensures that only the most perfectly developed
fruit makes it in to the finished wine.
Reignac
Bordeaux Supérieur
The vinification of the flagship red wine (called simply “Reignac”) is quite traditional. The grapes are crushed
directly above the small oak tanks and stainless steel vats in which they will undergo a one to two week cold
maceration at temperatures of 10° C or lower. Alcoholic fermentation is carried out at 28° C, during which
time the cap is manually punched down and the must pumped over. Malolactic fermentation takes place in
new French oak while the lees are kept in suspension by rotating the barrels - this generally lasts until the
February following the vintage. At that time the wine is racked for the first time and allowed to continue
aging - a total of 16 to 20 months, depending on the specific character of the vintage.
Robert Parker describes Reignac as “an amazing accomplishment for a Bordeaux Supérieur,” and “the flagship
example of high-class generic Bordeaux.”
Reignac Blanc
Bordeaux Supérieur
Reignac Blanc is made to same exacting level of quality as its red partner. The wine is a traditional blend
of Sauvignon Blanc (70%), Semillon (25%) and Muscadelle du Bordelaise (5%). The grapes are pressed
and the juice is left on the skins for about four hours. This contributes additional aromatics, structure
and complexity. The must is clarified, then run off in to new oak barrels where it undergoes alcoholic
fermentation. The lees are kept in suspension by rotating the barrells. After fermentation is complete, the
wine continues to age for about eight months, during which times the lees are constantly stirred.
Robert Parker described Reignac Blanc as wine that exhibits “sumptuous notes of orange marmalade
intermixed with honeysuckle, sealing wax, and lemon zest,” and went on to call it “a knockout dry white.”
Châteaufort de
Roquetaillade
Graves
Many, if not most, châteaux throughout the vast Bordeaux winegrowing region are “châteaux” in name only.
While the name may conjure up images of vast medieval or palatial renaissance constructions, in Bordeaux
most “châteaux” are frequently little more than country farmhouses or modest freestone houses. This is
certainly not the case with the Château de Roquetaillade, a classified historical monument whose origins
date back to the 11th century. Indeed, the first château was erected on this promontory in the southern
Graves by the de la Mothe family in the year 1050. Today, the imposing, thoroughly restored, defensive
fortress built in the 12th and 14th centuries constitutes the most impressive ensemble of its kind in the
Aquitaine region. Like so many such châteaux throughout France, Roquetaillade was renovated in the 19th
century under the direction of the ubiquitous Viollet-Le-Duc. Roquetaillade has been in the same family
since 1306(!) and is inhabited today by the Viscount J.P. de Baritault du Carpia and his family. The historic
value of the property is enhanced by the fact that its proprietors still run it as a working medieval castle - the
grounds are used to farm wine as well as Bazadais cattle.
The estate specializes in its dry white wine, generally a blend of more or less equal parts Sauvignon Blanc
and Semillon. Harvesting is exclusively manual, using 65 lb. plastic lugs (quite unusual in this part of the
Graves) - thus ensuring only ripe, healthy and unblemished fruit makes it back to the winery. The grapes are
gently pressed prior to pre-fermentation skin contact and then cold-settled. The clear juice is then pumped
into stainless steel tanks for fermentation at a cool 64°F. There, the wine is aged on its fine lees, which are
regularly stirred, contributing additional aromatic and palate richness to the wine. The wine sees no barrel
fermentation or aging, as the estate prefers to emphasize a ripe and fruity expression of the grape and the
terroir rather than the cooper’s art.
Château Saint Germain
Château Saint Germain’s 62 acre vineyard sits atop the gravelly galet-covered Vendres plateau, roughly
equidistant between the city of Béziers and the Mediterranean Sea. Vines were first planted here by the
Romans and have been tended for more than 2,000 years. The owner, Didier Cabanes is a burly, late-
forties, Army Reservist. As he speaks about his vineyards, his gravelly baritone voice richly tinted with
the local accent, you almost feel as if you are standing right there on a sunny summer day, with the smell
of the garrigue carried by the vent marin as it wafts in from the sea and the and the chatter of the cigales
(grasshoppers). There can be no doubt that we are in the South of France here!
Didier farms his vineyards naturally using no chemical herbicides or fertilizers. This takes real Provençal
perseverance; in the rocky acidic soil of the Vendres plateau, a tractor blade lasts less than two hours! Even
the steel wire used to trellis the vineyards has to be changed every few years due to the highly corrosive
nature of the winds blowing in off the Mediterranean (the vents marins mentioned above). We are most
grateful, however, that Didier does choose to persevere - the wine made from his 15 year old Syrah vines is
nothing less than beautiful.
Secret de Cardinale
St. Emilion
This is a 1.2 hectare vineyard block that was purchased by Florence and Dominique Decoster after the
updating of the Saint Emilion classification had already begun. Therefore, they were not allowed to
incorporate this block into Fleur Cardinale, which was in contention to become one of the first grand cru
classés from the eastern part of the appellation. This, of course, would not have been a problem for a grand
cru classé in the Médoc!
The block is planted at 6,500 vines/ha - a high density for Saint Emilion. The average age of the 100%
Merlot vines is a venerable 35 years. As at Fleur Cardinale, the soil is clay atop the limestone mother
lode. The Decosters lavish the same meticulous care on these vines as they do on those at Fleur Cardinale,
including debudding and deleafing and naturally cover cropping their vineyards. The hand-harvested fruit
is fermented in two small stainless steel tanks of 50 and 70 hls, and, after a 5-day cold soak @ 8° to 10° C,
undergoes a 35-day maceration. Malo takes place in 100% new French oak barrels. Bâtonnage takes place
every two weeks during the initial aging on the post-malo lees. Production is under 325 cases. 14%
Dom. de la Taille aux Loups
Montlouis sur Loire
Montlouis-sur-Loire used to be a nothing more than a little-known appellation situated just across the Loire
River from Vouvray. That was until Jacky Blot created Dom. de la Taille aux Loups in 1988. Blot was one
of the leading wine brokers in the Loire for years. In 1988, he was able to purchase and regroup three small
domains in Montlouis whose owners had reached retirement age. As a result, Jacky acquired nearly 20 acres
of prime, old-vine, vineyards: half were planted shortly after WWII; the balance first bore fruit before WWI!
As in Vouvray, the vines are exclusively Chenin Blanc.
After creating the domaine, Mon. Blot immediately set about rethinking vineyard policies. Organic
fertilization is kept to a strict minimum. Spraying is limited to a once annual, anti-botrytis, treatment so
as to facilitate the development of the sought after “noble rot,” even at the risk of incurring “gray rot”. This
latter, undesirable, rot is eliminated at the sorting tables which are set up right in the vineyards. Along with
severe pruning, Blot’s vineyard crew also effects a “green harvest” every year. Harvesting begins late: many
local producers already have their wines fermenting before Blot & Co. harvest their first grapes! Several
pickings or tries are made each vintage: the first trie frequently yields the most stunning sweet wines
called liquoreux. In more difficult vintages, the first trie produces dry and semi-dry wines (sec and demi-
sec) while the later harvests are used for the production of sparkling wines. Jacky’s 20-man team brings
in a mere 12 to 15 hectoliters per day, three times less than his neighbors. Yields are also unusually low
for this region: the average for the domain is 25-30 hls/ha, but in certain old vine plots this dropped to
the equivalent of a ridiculously low 40 cases/acre!
The cellars are carved deep into the tuffeau limestone in what used to be quarries. They are naturally
humid and cool with little temperature variation throughout the year and enable Jacky to bring the must
into barrel by gravity flow, wherein he can then initiate and conduct extremely long fermentations,
occasionally lasting as much as 14 months. These contribute unusual richness and concentration of
flavors to his wines. The estate uses old barrels from Château d’Yquem, not because they had contained
the hallowed wine of Yquem but because their selection of barrels coopered from 300-year old, tightly
grained, Tronçais oak was judged superior. The wines are racked as necessary thereby avoiding the need
to filter! Only a light fining is performed prior to bottling. Blending is performed as a result of extensive
tasting and analysis of each individual barrel.
Ch. Le Thil Comte Clary
Pessac-Léognan
In 1989 Château Le Thil had no vines, but it possessed a real treasure in the form of some twenty hectares of
land situated within the AOC of Pessac-Léognan. At that time, the de Laitre family considered giving to the
estate what it was missing - a vineyard. Jean de Laitre who then was far removed from the world of wine - he
was working as a medical intern in Paris - was nonetheless attracted by the project. He considered this to
be a once in a lifetime opportunity and abandoned his doctor’s stethoscope to commit himself full-time to
this incredible challenge. What an amazing adventure - to create from scratch a new vineyard on exceptional
land within a most prestigious appellation!
Guided only by his passion, Jean began this considerable undertaking which required very heavy investments.
Jean says if he had known just how high the financial stakes were, he may not have been quite so enthusiastic
about his new adventure. Nevertheless, in 1990 one of the youngest wine estates in Pessac-Léognan was
born. In love with his vines and the work of expressing the essence of the vineyards, Jean de Laitre is
constantly improving the vine growing and the vinification techniques. “Wine is a world of passion and a
great school of humility. It is a fantastic privilege to live in contact with nature, and to devote yourself to
creating happiness,” says Jean.
Today he is beginning to harvest the fruits of his passion: his wines are recognized all over the world and his
production is no longer big enough to meet the constantly growing demand from wine lovers. Bravo, Mon.
de Laitre!
Domaine Wardy
Private Selection
Zahlé, Bekaa Valley, Lebanon
This is a 110 hectare vineyard planted at a density of 4,000 vines/ha - the vines have an average age of 20
years. The soil is dark red clay mixed with limestone and is very rocky. The vineyards are mechanically
tilled, and no herbicides, insecticides, anti-mildew or anti-Botrytis chemicals are used - there are just 4 to 5
copper sulfate sprayings per year and the finished wine is guaranteed devoid of any chemical residue. Yields
in 2006 were just 25 hls/ha. Fermentation of the hand-harvested fruit takes place in temperature-controlled
stainless steel vats with a 4 to 5 week maceration. Aging takes place in 100% new Seguin-Moreau French
oak barrels. The blend is about one-third each of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah. Jean-Michel
Ferrandez (of Aiguilhe Querre in the Côtes de Castillon) is the consultant. It is with Jean-Michel that we
launched another remarkable Lebanese wine, the Château Kefraya (also from the Bekaa Valley) “Comte de
M” in 1996. Production is about 1,000 cases. 15%

BBS Book (PT 6) - Jeffrey Davies

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Clos Saint Julien

Château Petit Gravet-Aîné

2004 Fleur Cardinale 90-92

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