From lassis and health-drinks to five-star mocktails, soft drinks have been getting a major makeover of late to meet growing demand for drinks that are big on taste but booze-free. henrietta Clancy reports
PHOTOS: ROB LAWSON
hen the soft drink choice extends to a sorry looking carton of long-life tropical juice plucked from the back of the fridge, or some cola languidly squirted from a pump into a foggy Ikea tumbler, its little wonder that consumers save their hard-earned cash and opt for water when theyre not drinking. But from a commercial point of view, plying non-drinkers with a steady flow of iced tap is something of a missed opportunity. Especially when alcohol consumption is going down. There was a 6% fall across the UK in 2009, the biggest drop in 60 years. And with the trend set to continue as people become increasingly health conscious its downright careless
not to put a little more effort into generating profits from soft drinks. Regardless of whether youre a specialist cocktail bar, gastro-pub, restaurant or caf there are several things you can do to market your wares and increase your sales. So, its time to flip that mundane phrase, Ill just have a tap water on its head and treat it as a chance to impress. In reality, very little has to be done to generate a considerable profit. With cocktail bars in particular, the ambience, glassware, skill and level of service all things that the non-drinker can appreciate are already in place. With gastro-pubs and restaurants, simply stocking a wellconsidered soft drink that complements
food makes for no extra work beyond educating staff and encouraging them to make recommendations to your customers who arent drinking alcohol. Using the example of Dishoom, a Bombay caf in London that serves food from 8am to 11pm, Michael Isted, drinks consultant for the Gorgeous Group, notes that by offering a premium range of soft drinks that gives consumers the option to think beyond tap water, you can take spend up significantly. After everyone has had a lassi to accompany their meal, not only have you added a thoroughly satisfying dimension to their experience, youve increased your intake by about 20%, he explains.
In the mIx
However, bartenders seem to lose their enthusiasm when it comes to the challenge of creating a premium mocktail. With all the little tricks of the trade removed especially bitters and without alcohols assistance in breaking down oil-based herbs and carrying aroma, mocktails can become a secondary offering banished to the back page of the list. But despite being notoriously challenging to get right (there are various tips circulating
Richard Beck from The Roof Gardens uses vinegar to do what bitters might), they can be done well. And no, a Virgin Mojito does not constitute a well-considered nonalcoholic offering. As Paul Tvaroh at Lounge Bohemia points out, Merely taking away the alcohol from a well balanced cocktail just results in an unbalanced drink. Its also important that a mocktail is more than a functional soft drink; that it doesnt lose its sense of playfulness. They should be
A drink without alcohol deserves the same mark of sophistication as that with
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soft drinks
fun. Their ingredients should suggest decadence and they should share the same flavour complexity and balance as a cocktail, says Joe McCanta of Saf in east London. Of course, much of what you sell has to do with your clientele. Regardless of the fact that he doesnt drink himself and is therefore, no doubt, adept at whipping himself up a mocktail, Tvaroh admits that most people only come to his bar in the evening looking for one thing and thats an alcoholic drink. Catering for a global audience in a hotel bar with longer opening hours is an altogether different situation. Ago Perrone, head mixologist of the Connaught Bar, finds that his mocktails are always popular. He feels that the demand is there because non-drinking guests, both those staying at the hotel and otherwise, still want to enjoy the experience of visiting a premium bar and being treated accordingly. And this is perhaps the thing that is overlooked the most: a drink without alcohol deserves the same mark of sophistication as that with, the same painstaking garnish and ceremony. As Isted, who also works with The Savoy, points out, the ritual must be the same, with exactly the same amount of
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Hes generally been shocked at how the soft drink market hasnt bothered to raise its standards at the same speed as other sectors. We wouldnt accept flavour enhancers in our food, so why its OK to serve substandard soft drinks in otherwise premium restaurants is baffling, he muses. Consequently, hes leading the way. Each blended drink in the Luscombe range has tasting notes and pairing suggestions: the Wild Blueberry Crush is, dry, like a light red wine and great with charcuterie, the organic Devon apple juice is drier, with more body and tannin than the ordinary apple juice, and can subsequently take on a range of pork and chicken dishes. On the whole, it seems to be about challenging peoples perceptions of what goes with what and encouraging them to experiment a little. As Isted points out, Brits tend to connect eating Indian food with drinking beer. However, in India itself its a very different story, with food usually being accompanied by a refreshing lemon soda or a lassi. If you can add an element of history to the drink and serve it with a story then it becomes easier to sell. Raw food restaurant and bar, Saf, is equally aware of the opportunities that serving a drink with food Joe McCanta, Saf opens up. McCanta says that his Veranda Moments, a sharp blend of cucumber, basil, lime and agave, pairs especially well consideration going into the glassware and with bruschetta or a cheese platter, while service as the drink itself. his Cubana Banana almond milk, cacao Be it a champagne flute for something nibs, banana, cinnamon and agave is great light and sparkling, or a Martini glass for a served alongside a slice of rich cacao tart. more concentrated-style drink. Its vitally important that the experience of not drinking is as magical as that of drinking, he says. healthy optIons However, when it comes to its non-alcoholic offering, Safs real USP is paying attention Food & FIne juICe to the health benefits of its creations, all Being able to appreciate the delicate of which can be enjoyed at any time of flavour nuances of a non-alcoholic cocktail day. Fresh mixed juices are comprised of a is one thing; being able to savour a soft veritable array of home-grown botanicals, to drink like a wine and pair it with food is all of which you have the option of adding another area for exploration altogether. wheatgrass powder, omega oil and cayenne One company thats setting the pace for powder. The menu thoroughly lists what the such an approach is Luscombe, whose customer is buying when they opt for any products are sold in various top-end given juice, be it a cellular cleansing boost establishments, from Hix to The Fat Duck. or superfood hit to aid circulation. Gabriel David took over the company from Not that providing a health boost has his father, Luscombes founder, in 1997 to be the reserve of those who have and has since steered it down the centrifugal juicers behind the bar. Andrew grown-up soft drink route.
King, CEO of Funkin, is keen to expound the versatility of his range, which includes three flavours of aptly named just add juice smoothie mixes, that bars and restaurants can use to produce a fresh drink. The tropical (strawberry and banana), and mixed berry (note: high in anti-oxidants) varieties can be prepared behind the bar, meaning that the customer doesnt miss out on the theatrics of a premium product. Sold in a selection of pubs, including Browns and The Tin Goose in Heathrows Terminal 1 (Geronimo Inns), an added benefit is that an 80g serving of the Funkin smoothie mix constitutes one of your five a day.
What? No alcohol?
Create taste sensation without intoxication using these marvellous mixes
Bhang Lassi
Georgeous Group, Dishoom Glass: Tall tumbler Garnish: fresh mint leaves and a pinch of mukvas Method: Blend all ingredients together for 30 seconds in a blender until the consistency is frothy. 100ml coconut milk 160ml milk 1 inch fresh ginger pinch garam masala dash grenadine dash almond syrup
Jasmine PearLs
Joe McCanta, Saf Glass: Martini Garnish: 3 jasmine pearls Method: Shake the peach, green tea and yuzu or lime juice and strain into a chilled glass thats been spritzed with orange blossom water. 60ml cold jasmine pearl green tea 30ml Funkin peach juice 1 spritz orange flower water 15ml Japanese yuzu/ lime juice
all-day drInkIng
King notes that the soft drinks market is fastexpanding, and that Funkin is putting more thought, effort and innovation into it than ever before. What people are after more and more is a sippable drink, rather than a gulpable one; something that goes down at the same speed as alcohol. With this in mind, hes encouraging bars and gastro-pubs who are already familiar with the Funkin syrups as a cocktail ingredient to experiment without alcohol. This summer The Slug and Lettuce ran a soft drink named the cherry cola, which was simply Funkins morello cherry pure, with a tap-dispensed cola top using a homemade lemonade would be a way to make this drink more premium. Meanwhile smoothies, shakes and lassis are an ideal way to capture the breakfast market Dishoom does a special breakfast lassi, more substantial thanks to the addition of oats, alongside its all-day flavours that range from plain salted, to mango and fennel, and rose and cardamom. But theres also scope to explore the decidedly less healthy options for later in the day. Customers who dont want to drink alcohol but still want to treat themselves are certainly open to ordering something a bit more special than tap water. Due to open in Londons Richmond as we go to press in November is London Syon Park, a Waldorf Astoria hotel. Inside will be an ice-cream parlour named Brownies that, beyond the obligatory sundaes, is promising an extensive range of indulgent smoothies and shakes. Therell be no wheatgrass shots here, and its doubtful its customers will be contributing to their five a day, but theyll probably be downing quite a few soft drinks.
Boost
Paulo Brammer, The Botanist Glass: Highball Garnish: lemongrass straw Method: Shake and strain. 1 slice fresh ginger 1 stick lemongrass 15ml honey fresh lime 175ml apple juice
meLon Patch
Paulo Brammer, The Botanist Glass: Highball Garnish: watermelon wedge and mint sprig Method: Shake all and strain. 3 mint leaves 1 large piece of watermelon 10ml gomme syrup 5ml fresh lime juice lemonade to top