12/22/2011

1
Gelombang Laut
(Ocean Waves)
Pelabuhan Ratu, Jabar Tanah Lot, Bali
Kenapa perlu mempelajari gelombang?
Giant Kelp, Teluk California
Abrasi Pantai di Carita
Contoh lain: Sediment Resuspension
Basic Properties of Wavesall waves!
Note that these definitions work
also for radio waves, gamma
rays and light waves.
In this case the interface is
between the ocean and the
atmosphere or between layers
of different densities
Period
Celerity = C = Wavelength/Period
T

H
T =
T
t
e
2
=
Wave Frequency

t
k
2
=
Wave Number
k
e
= C
Wave Celerity
or
ripples
or
seas
Types of Waves in the Ocean
Name Typical Periods Wave lengths Forcing Mechanism
Ripples < 0.2 s 10
-2
m wind on sea surface
Sea 0.2 - 9 s 10s of m "
Swell 9 - 30 s 100s of m "
Internal min to several hrs 1 - 300 m current shear on stratification
Planetary and
Topographic hours to days 100-1000s km bathymetry/atmospheric pressure
Tsunamis 15 min to 1 hr few 100s km seismic, landslide, meteorite impact
Tides several hrs 100s -1000s km gravitational (moon and sun mainly)
Waves preserve their period
The wavelength is a function of the period
The celerity is a function of the wavelength
T
C

=
Long waves travel faster than short waves
12/22/2011
2
Small Amplitude Waves
Period
Celerity = C = Wavelength/Period
T

H
T =
20 1 < H
In reality, wave steepness of small amplitude waves < 1 / 50
| | t x A t
T
x A e k
t

t
q =
(

= cos
2 2
cos
x
g
t
u
c
c
=
c
c q
t H x
u
c
c
=
c
c q 1
momentum balance
| | t x A e k q = cos
( )
2
1
2
1
tanh
2
tanh
2
(

=
(

|
.
|

\
|
= h
g
h g C k
k
t
t

Obtained from equations of motion assuming the wave is progressive,

incompressible and irrotational
( )
2
1
tanh
(

= h
g
C k
k
Deep water wave: < 2h ( h is depth ) or Short wave
This means that is small and h is large
( ) 1 tanh ~ h k
t t k t

k 2 2 2
2
1
T
g
T C
g
g
g
g
C = = = =
(

=
Shallow water wave: > 20h ( h is depth ) or Long wave
This means that is large and h is small
( ) h h k k ~ tanh
( ) h g h
g
C =
(

=
2
1
k
k
h

C
Intermediate
Waves
Deep Water
Waves
Shallow Water
Waves
h g C =
t 2 gT C =
( )
2
1
tanh
(

= = h
g
C k
k k
e
( ) h g k k e tanh
2
=
Dispersion relation
(relation between frequency and
wave number)
Deep waves are
dispersive
Shallow waves are
non-dispersive
12/22/2011
3
Pembentukan, perambatan dan gelombang
pecah di pantai
Waves in the area of
the fetch
Group Velocity C
g
=
Velocity of the wave
envelope
In deep waters:
C
g
= 0.5 C
In shallow waters:
C
g
= C
( ) k
e
k
k
c
c
=
(

+ =
h
h C
C
g
2 sinh
2
1
2
(green wave moving to the right; blue wave to the left)
Group Velocity = Velocity of the wave envelope
Short Deep Water Waves
wind waves and swell offshore
Motion of the
Wave Form
Circular
Motion
( ) t x e
T
H
u
z
e k
t

t
= cos
2
( ) t x e
T
H
w
z
e k
t

t
= sin
2
( ) t x e
H
z
e k

t
= sin
2
2
( ) t x e
H
z
e k

t
= cos
2
2
12/22/2011
4
Long Shallow Water Waves
Tides, Tsunamis, Seiches,
waves in shallow water
Elliptical
Motion
What about INTERMEDIATE WATER
WAVES?
( ) t x
h
g H
u e k = cos
2
( ) t x
h
z
T
H
w e k
t
|
.
|

\
|
+ = sin 1
( ) t x
h
g TH
e k
t
= sin
4
( ) t x
h
z H
e k |
.
|

\
|
+ = cos 1
2
Motion of
water
particles
beneath
waves --
energy
travels across
the surface,
not water
particles
Orbits of water particles are not quite closed -- net displacement = STOKES DRIFT
Four factors controlling height and shape of wind waves
Wind Speed: Proportional
Wind duration: e.g. synoptic vs. sea-breeze
Fetch: Distance over which the wind blows.
Original Sea State: begin from rough or smooth surface
Increased
Wind Speed
causes
waves with
increased
height,
wavelength
and period
Fully
developed
sea --
waves can
no longer
grow
12/22/2011
5
Average and Significant Wave Height
0
5
10
15
20
25
20 30 40 50 60 70 80 90
Wind Speed
W
a
v
e

H
e
i
g
h
t
Ave. Hgt Sig. Hgt.
Significant Wave Height = average of highest 1/3 of the waves.
Small amplitude waves: Steepness < 1/20 (1/50 in real ocean)
= A cos(x - t); A=H/2, = 2/, =2/T
Phase speed or wave
celerity C
wavelength
Group velocity C
g
Wave particle
horizontal velocity u
vertical velocity w
Horizontal
displacements
Vertical
displacements
Subsurface pressure
e k t
g g gT
C = = =
2
( )
2
1
tanh
(

= h
g
C k
k
| | 2
1
h g C =
t

2
2
gT
= ( ) h
gT
k
t
tanh
2
2
= T C =
( )
(

+ =
h
h C
C
g
k
k
2 sinh
2
1
2 ( ) 1
5 . 0
>>
=
h
C C
g
k ( ) 1 <<
=
h
C C
g
k
| | ( )
( )
( ) t x
h
z h gT H
u e k
t
t

+
= cos
2 cosh
2 cosh
2
| | ( )
( )
( ) t x
h
z h gT H
w e k
t
t

+
= sin
2 cosh
2 sinh
2
| | ( )
( )
( ) t x
h
z h H
e k
t
t

+
= sin
2 cosh
2 cosh
2
| | ( )
( )
( ) t x
h
z h H
e k
t
t
,
+
= cos
2 cosh
2 sinh
2
| | ( )
( )
gz
h
z h
g p
t
t
q
+
=
2 cosh
2 cosh
( ) t x
h
g H
u e k = cos
2
( ) t x
h
z
T
H
w e k
t
|
.
|

\
|
+ = sin 1
( ) t x
h
g TH
e k
t
= sin
4
( ) t x
h
z H
e k |
.
|

\
|
+ = cos 1
2
( ) z g p = q
( ) t x e
T
H
u
z
e k
t

t
= cos
2
( ) t x e
T
H
w
z
e k
t

t
= sin
2
( ) t x e
H
z
e k

t
= sin
2
2
( ) t x e
H
z
e k

t
= cos
2
2
z g e g p
z
q

t
=
2
( ) h g k k e tanh
2
=
deep waves (short)
< 2h
intermediate waves
2h < < 20h
shallow waves (long)
> 20h
In shallow waters, waves refract, diffract, reflect and/or break
Refraction
Change of
wave
celerity
(bending of
rays) due to
changes in
bathymetry
Diffraction
Change of
wave celerity
(bending of
rays) due to
the presence
of an
obstacle
Waves Reflection
12/22/2011
6
Breaking
Waves break when steepness (H / ) < 1 / 7 or H / d ~ 0.8
Internal Waves
T = min to several hrs
Wave length = 1 - 300 m
Current shear on stratification
Convergences at troughs
They propagate roughly like a shallow water wave but the gravity restoring force is reduced
by the difference in density.
m/s C
d g C
1 100 001 . 0 10
1
1 2
2
1 2
= =

|
|
.
|

\
|
=
=


How about C of a surface (wind-induced) wave? Internal Waves in a closed basin
12/22/2011
7
Standing Waves
Natural standing wave (lake, harbor, estuary) ---- seiche
Created by earthquakes, underwater landslides, meteorites --
cause a series of waves or wave train
Harbor wave definitely not a tidal wave
T = 15 min to 1 hour
Wave length = 100s of km
Speed of shallow water surface wave
s m d g C / 200 4000 10 = = =
Tsunami
Tsunami in Papua New Guinea
1960 Chile Tsunami
2004 Tsunami in the Indian Ocean
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/2004_Indian_Ocean_earthquake
http://www.digitalglobe.com/tsunami_gallery.html