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Contents
INTRODUCTION: ...................................................................................................................................... 3 LITERATURE REVIW:................................................................................................................................. 5 Course: A course is predominantly horizontal row of needle loops produced y adjacent needles during the same knitting cycle. ........................................................................................................................ 5 Wales: A wale is a predominantly vertical column of intermeshed needle loops produced by the same needle knitting at successive knitting cycle. A wale commences as soon as an empty needle starts to knit. ..................................................................................................................................................... 6 GSM:.................................................................................................................................................... 6 GSM DEPENDS ON: .............................................................................................................................. 8 METHODOLOGY .................................................................................................................................... 13 DEFINITION OF DIFFERENT KEYWORDS ARE DISCUSSED BELOW: ................................................... 13 WALES PER INCH (WPI): ................................................................................................................. 13 COURSES PER INCH (CPI): ............................................................................................................... 13 STITCH LENGTH: ............................................................................................................................. 13 YARN COUNT: ................................................................................................................................ 13 GSM : ............................................................................................................................................. 14 Fabric Width: ..................................................................................................................................... 15 FACTORS CONSIDERED FOR REQUIRED G.S.M: ................................................................................... 15 2. FABRIC WIDTH: ............................................................................................................................. 20 MACHINE SPECIFICATION:.................................................................................................................. 22 1. MACHINE GAUGE: ..................................................................................................................... 22 2. MACHINE DIAMETER: ................................................................................................................ 23 3. NEEDLE GAUGE: ........................................................................................................................ 24 RESULT & DISCUSSION ........................................................................................................................... 26 CONCLUSION ......................................................................................................................................... 29 Reference .............................................................................................................................................. 30

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CHAPTER 1 GENERAL INTRODUCTION

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INTRODUCTION:
Fabric is a manufactured assembly of fibres and yarns that has substantial surface area in relation to its thickness and sufficient cohesion to give the assembly useful mechanical strength. Fabrics are most commonly woven or knitted but the term includes assemblies produced by felting, lace making, net making, non woven processes and tufting. Our project basically is on knitted fabric specification and machines which are related to knitted fabric production. A precise statement of a set of requirement to be satisfied by a materials, product, and system or service that indicates the procedures for determining whether each of the requirements is satisfied. In the analysis of woven fabric specification we consider ends per inch, picks per inch, yarn count (warp & weft), and fabric width but in case of knitted fabric specification GSM, stitch length are mainly considered. The title of our project work is Analysis of knitted fabric specification and other related machine specification. There are problem in our industries to produce knitted fabrics of required G.S.M. Other specification like fabric width, fabric thickness is generally maintained in industries by previous data sheet. For this reason there are problem if any order comes which didnt produced in previous. Our target is to find out the easy process to get decision about yarn count selection, loop length selection, machine Diameter selection & machine gauge selection.

We strongly think that by this process we can get decision about yarn count, loop length, machine gauge, and machine diameter for the single jersey, Rib and interlock fabric. Aims of the project work are the following: Find out relation between yarn count and GSM. Find out the logic of selection of stitch length selection. Selection of machine diameter and machine gauge to get specific width of fabric. Find out the fabric width.
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CHAPTER 2 LITERATURE REVIEW

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LITERATURE REVIEW:
What is yarn
Yarn is a long continuous length of interlocked fibres, suitable for use in the production of textiles, sewing, crocheting, knitting, weaving, embroidery and ropemaking. What is Fabric Fabric or cloth is a flexible artificial material that is made by a network of natural or artificial fibers. The example is thread or yarn which is formed by weaving or knitting as in textiles. Cloth is mostly used in the manufacturing of clothing and household furnishings etc. Weaving : Weaving is a method of fabric production in which two distinct sets of yarns or threads are interlaced at right angles to form a fabric or cloth. The longitudinal threads are called the warp and the lateral threads are the weft or filling. The method in which these threads are inter woven affects the characteristics of the cloth.

Pic- weaving

Knitting : Knitting is a method by which thread or yarn may be turned into cloth or other fine crafts. Knitted fabric consists of consecutive rows of loops, called stitches. As each row progresses, a new loop is pulled through an existing loop. The active stitches are held on a needle until another loop can be passed through them. This process eventually results in a final product.
Pic- Knitting Course: A course is predominantly horizontal row of needle loops produced y adjacent needles during the same knitting cycle.
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Wales: A wale is a predominantly vertical column of intermeshed needle loops produced by the same needle knitting at successive knitting cycle. A wale commences as soon as an empty needle starts to knit.

GSM:
There are two formulas for calculating the GSM of a knitted fabric. i.e. First formula is Course per inch x Stitch length x 39.37 x 39.37 x Tex
GSM =

1000 x 1000 WPI x CPI x SL (mm) x 0.9155 GSM = Count (Ne) Another formula is the following: Ks x Tex GSM = Stitch length ( mm ) Where, Ks is a constant. Its value is different for different fabric structure and fabric type. Ks is calculated and estimated as below: Stitch length ( mm ) x GSM Ks = Tex

Fabric Type Single jersey Single Lacoste Double Lacoste Polo pique Plain interlock

Colour Average Average Average Average Average

Value of Ks 19.55 224 22.75 25 39.3

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1 x 1 rib 1 x 1 rib 2 x 1 rib Flat back rib Three thread fleece

Average Light Average Average Average

24.5 26.5 28.3 81 40.92

CALCULATION OF WALES PER INCH: We calculated the number of wales in 10 inch fabric unraveling the yarn. Then we divide the no. of total wales by 10 inch to getting the wales per inch. CALCULATION OF COURSE PER INCH: We calculated the number of course in five inch with the help of counting glass and needle. Then we divide the total no. of course by five inch to getting the course per inch. MEASUREMENT OF STITCH LENGTH: Stitch length is theoretically a single length of yarn which includes one needle loop and adjacent needle loops on either side of it. Loop exits in coarse in course length and it is that which influence fabric dimension and other properties including weight. In order to determine the stitch length, we count 100 no wales or stitch and count its length by hanging the yarn on the stitch counter. The reading is found in mm unit. MEASUREMENT OF YARN COUNT: We have fallowed a different way to find out the count of the yarn. At first we unravel a considerable no yarn from the fabric. Then we measured the total length of the yarn and measured the weight of that no of yarn. From these weights, we find out the count of the yarn. The equation we followed is as follow: n-1 x 453.6 Count = Wt x 36 x 840

Where, n= number of yarn in bundle. L= length of yarn. Wt= weight of yarn.

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GSM DEPENDS ON:

1. TYPE OF YARN: The main material for knitting process is yarn. The quality of knitted yarn should be like as follows: Parameter 30/1 Cotton Combed
Best Acceptable limit

30/1 Cotton Carded

Best Acceptable limit

30/1 Poly Cotton

Best Acceptable limit

Uniformity 9 9.5 % Thin 50%) Thick (+50%) Neps (+200%) Hairiness Tenacity (CN/tex) Elongation (- 0 7 - 12 38 - 47 4.0 4.4 21.8 22.6 6.7 6.9

9.7 10.2 3-5 32-43 73 - 88 4.6 - 4.9 18.4 - 18.9 6.2 - 6.4

11.5-12.1 16-22 75-90 140-175 4.75-5.1 16.7-17.6 7.3-7.08

12.8-13.5 50-60 250-300 300-380 5.5-5.8 16.2-15.4 6.6-6.4

9.5-9.8 2-3 15-20 30-45 4-4.44 25.5-24 14.7-13.7

10.4-10.7 7-10 34-42 48-58 4.45-4.8 23.4-22.1 11.8-11.2

2. YARN COUNT: The following counts of yarn that are widely used for knitting process are given: a) Cotton: 20/1, 24/1, 26/1, 28/1, 30/1, 34/1, 40/1 Ne.
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b) Terylene cotton: 20/1, 24/1, 26/1, 28/1, 30/1 Ne. c) CVC: 26/1, 28/1, 30/1, 34/1 Ne. d) Melange: 20/1, 22/1, 26/1, 30/1 Ne. e) Spandex: 40D, 70D. f) Polyester: 75D, 150D. g) Sewing thread: 40/2, 150D etc. Other parameters are: Stitch length Fabric Structure. Finishing process. Depth of shade. Stitch density. Machine gauge RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN KNITTING PARAMETERS 1. Stitch length increase with the increase of GSM. 2. If stitch length increase then fabric width increase and WPI decrease. 3. If machine gauge increase then fabric width decrease. 4. If yarn count increase (courser) then fabric width increase. 5. If shrinkage increases then fabric width decrease but GSM and WPI increase. 6. For finer gauge, finer count yarn should use. 7. Grey GSM should be less than finish GSM. From our project work we manage to find the following equations for the selection of yarn count to get required G.S.M. equations vary for fabric types, fabric construction. List of equations are tabulated below:

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Name of the fabrics Single jersey Pique Double lacoste 1 x 1 Rib Name of the fabrics Lycra 1 x 1 Rib Lycra 2 x 2 Rib Interlock

Equations Yarn count = - 0.141 GSM + 50.22 Yarn count = - 0.146 GSM + 57.16 Yarn count = - 0.167 GSM + 64.36 Yarn count = - 0.123 GSM + 54.57 Equations Yarn count = - 0.119 GSM + 59.12 Yarn count = - 0.108 GSM + 56.62 Yarn count = - 0.206 GSM + 80.56

EQUATIONS FOR GETTING REQUIRED GSM FROM THE SPECIFIC YARN COUNT: Name of the fabrics Single jersey Lycra Single jersey Pique 1 x 1 Rib Lycra 1 x 1 Rib Lycra 2 x 2 Rib Interlock Equations GSM = -6.879yarn count + 350.4 GSM = -4.9716 yarn count + 354.56 GSM = -6.6737 yarn count + 386.44 GSM = -7.9731 yarn count + 437.66 GSM = -8.2839 yarn count + 494.08 GSM = -8.2839 yarn count + 494.08 GSM = -4.778 yarn count + 388

Relation among GSM, stitch length and yarn count can be derived from the following equation: 1 GSM Yarn count x Stitch length Different properties were found in Different knit structures according to stitch length, stitch density that means wales per inch, course per inch. Shortly they told loose structure that
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(When Yarn count and Stitch length both are variable)

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means higher loop length gives less GSM on fabric & compact structure that means shorter loop length gives high GSM on fabric. In their project analysis, they observed that single jersey plain structure & 11 plain rib structure variation of calculated GSM with respect to actual GSM is too small. But in single lacoste & polo-pique structure variation of calculated GSM with respect to actual GSM is high. Because single lacoste & polo-pique structure are made by combination of knit & tuck loops. They also analyzed that one knit loop consumes 30% more yarn than tuck loop. So calculated GSM is higher in single lacoste & polo-pique structure than single jersey plain structure & 11 plain rib structure. In general, the angle of spirality values decreases when the tightness factor values gets higher that is decrease of loop length in all knitted samples. In slack knitted fabric structures, the loop can easily find an area to rotate & spirality increases. The spirality angle of the fabrics knitted with ring yarns are very high comparing with the fabrics knitted with open end yarns. This shows the effect of the spirality on twist liveliness. Fabric shrinkage depends on different fabric structure i.e.; single jersey, rib, interlock & their derivatives, yarn composition i.e.; 100% cotton, cotton & polyester & synthetic yarn.

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CHAPTER 3 METHODOLOGY

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METHODOLOGY
DEFINITION OF DIFFERENT KEYWORDS ARE DISCUSSED BELOW:
WALES PER INCH (WPI):
Wales per inch means how many numbers of wales are present in one inch, it is very important for calculation of knitted fabric GSM and fabric properties.

COURSES PER INCH (CPI):

Courses per inch mean how many numbers of courses are present in one inch. It is also very important for calculation of knitted fabric GSM.

STITCH LENGTH:
Stitch length is theoretically is a single length of yarn which include one needle loop and half the length of Yarn (half of a sinker loop) between that needle loop and the adjacent needle loops on either side of it. Loop exists in course in course length and it is that which influence fabric dimension and other properties including weight.

YARN COUNT:
Yarn count is a numerical expression of fineness or coarseness of yarn. Yarn count is calculated in two systems: a. Direct system b. Indirect system They are described below:

Direct system: In this system the count lf yarn express the no. wt. units in one length unit. In direct system higher the count, coarser the yarn This system is used for thrown silk, artificial silk, jute etc and count calculation formula is the following:
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Wx l

Count =
w xL Here, W = weight of sample. L = length of sample. w = unit weight in system. l = unit length in system. Indirect system: In this system the count of yarn express the no of unit length per unit weight. In this system higher the yarn count finer the yarn. It is generally used for cotton, worsted, woolen, linen etc and the yarn count calculation formula is the following:

Lx w Count= Wx l
Here, W = weight of sample. L = length of sample. w = unit weight in system. l = unit length in system.

GSM :
GSM means the weight in gram per square meter of fabric. Fabric area density: Fabric area density can be calculated by the following formula,

S x l xT Area density=
Here,

100 T = Tex,
S = Stitch density, l = Stitch length.

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Fabric Width:
Fabric width can be calculated by the following formula:
course length xStitch length Fabric Width = Kw Txd xG xStitch length

=
Kw

Where, Stitch length is in cm D = Machine diameter, G = Machine Gauge and Kw = 38 (for dry relaxed state) = 41 (for wet relaxed state) = 42.2 (for finished relaxed state

Elements of Specification:
1. GSM. 2. Loop length. 3. Yarn count. 4. Fabric width.

FACTORS CONSIDERED FOR REQUIRED G.S.M:

Yarn Count (English count): Through our project work we manage to find out the following relation between yarn count and G.S.M: i.e. 1
GSM Yarn Count ...........................(1)

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1 GSM Loop length From the equation (1) & (2) we get, 1 GSM Yarn count x Stitch length ............................(2)

When Yarn count and Stitch length both are variable

@Yarn count x Loop length x G.S.M. = K

CONSTANT FOR SINGLE JERSEY FROM COLLECTED GSM SL (mm) COUNT EQUATION AVERAGE S/N 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9
122.488 127.038 135.77 141.36 144.5 148 153 155.22 163.715 2.664324 2.965405 2.319347 3.046935 2.698962 2.610811 2.701087 2.881429 2.880883 37.777 31.6278 32.92 31.8744 30.87 28.8 30 27.12405 26.97 12328.44 11914.8 10366.43 13728.77 12039.3 11128.32 12397.99 12131.38 12720.23 12083.96

STD. DVE.

CV

946.3509

7.831462

ACTUAL PRACTICING OF CONSTANT VALUE IN THE INDUSTRY:

Type

N e

Max
m

Min
m

GS M

Single Jersey

GSM GS M 20 220 200

SL (mm ) 2.85 3.00 3.10 2.70 2.85 3.00 3.15

Constant K

Average

STD. DVE.

CV %

24

190

160

220 210 200 190 180 170 160

12540 12600 12400 12312 12312 12240 12096

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26

170

150

28

155

140

30

150

130

170 160 150 155 150 140 150 140 130

2.75 2.90 3.00 2.70 2.80 2.95 2.65 2.80 3.00

12155 12064 11700 11718 11760 11564 11925 11676 11700

12047.62 5

334.938377 4

2.78011954 6

Deflection =

12083.96 12047.625 12047.625

x 100 = 0.3%

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Some Fabrics GSM is showed with changing Yarn Count.

SI. No. 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14 15. 16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30. 31. 32. 33. 34. 35. 36. 37. 38. Fabric Type Strip S/J S/J Double Pique 1/1 Rib 1/1 Rib 1/1 Rib 1/1 Rib 1/1 Rib S/J S/J S/J Full Feeder Lycra S/J Full Feeder Lycra S/J Full Feeder Lycra S/J Full Feeder Lycra S/J 1/1 Rib 1/1 Rib 2/2 Rib 1/1 Lycra Rib Strip S/J D/ Pique S/J S/J S/J S/J Strip S/J 1/1 Rib 1/1 Rib 1/1 Lycra Rib 1/1 Lycra Rib 2/2 Rib S/J S/J S/J S/J S/J S/J S/J Yarn Count 26/1 30/1 32/1 30/1 20/1 24/1 28/1 32/1 28/1 40/1 28/1 34/1 30/1 28/1 26/1 24/1 40/1 cvc 30/1 30/1 + 40D 26/1 32/1 32/1 30/1 40/1 28/1 26/1 32/1 30/1 30/1 24/1 30/1 26/1 24/1 28/1 32/1 26/1 20/1 24/1 SL (mm) 2.86 2.80 2.58 2.60 3.20 2.90 2.67 2.45 2.78 2.45 2.75 2.90 2.95 2.80 2.90 3.00 2.80 2.78 2.90 2.86 2.54 2.64 2.72 2.45 2.75 2.90 2.45 2.60 2.90 3.00 2.78 2.88 2.85 2.75 2.58 2.90 3.18 2.90 GSM 160 150 165 220 270 220 200 200 155 110 160 180 200 160 160 270 250 220 230 160 170 135 145 110 160 160 200 220 250 270 220 160 180 160 135 160 190 180

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GRAPH SHOWN THE RELATION BETWEEN THE COUNT AND THE GSM:

27 25 23 21 19 17 15 13 11 9 7 5 3 1 0 50 100 150 200

GSM COUNT

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2. FABRIC WIDTH:
Along the fabric width there presents the wales. The total no. of needle is fixed for the same cylinder having the equal gauge as well as diameter. Fabric width = No. of wales X Wales space. =Total no of needle in the machine X Wales space. The above concepts clarify that Fabric width closely depends on total no. of needle not directly related to machine diameter or machine gauge. WALES SPACE: The space covered by a wale is called wale space for that wale. Wales space depends on: a. Yarn diameter. b. Loop length. They are described below: 1. YARN DIAMETER:

1.4

1.2

0.8

Yarn dia
0.6 0.4

0.2

0 0 20 40 60 80

From the experiment it is seen that yarn diameter decreases with the increases of yarn
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count. The count which are generally used in circular knitting machine Bangladesh

(20 to 40) the rate of decrease is generally slow than that of below 20 count in which the rate of increase of yarn count is higher or it increase rapidly. When the loop length is minimum, the leg of loop comes in close contact with each other and there is no free space among left, middle and right zone of interloping area.
Left Zone Middle Zone Right Zone

Interloping Area

Fig.: Impact of yarn diameter on free space in interlooping area Under the circumstance the wales space will be less than four times of yarn diameter.
dd dd

Wales space = d+d+d+d = 4d When loop length is minm

COMMENT: In case of minimum loop length there is no space left in interloping area.

i.e. stretched due to tension the wales space become less than 4d (d is the yarn diameter) When loop length is increased the space into the interloping area i.e. the zone a, b & c are increased as a result wales space becomes wider. It may be upto 5.2d (de
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MACHINE SPECIFICATION:
1. Machine gauge. 2. Machine Diameter. 3. Needle gauge. They are described below:

1. MACHINE GAUGE:
No. of needles per inch present in a needle bed of a knitting machine is called machine gauge for that knitting machine. A term giving a notational indication of the no. of needles per unit length along a needle bed or needle bar of a knitting machine in current practice, a common unit length of one English inch (25.4mm) is used for all types of warp and weft knitting machine. Selection of machine gauge depends upon yarn diameter. Yarn diameter depends upon the following: 1. Yarn count 2. Fibre type 3. Yarn twist 4. Yarn finished General practice of yarn count and machine gauge in different industries in Bangladesh given below: TYPICAL SELECTION OF M/C GAUGE FOR DIFFERENT COUNT YARN: M/C Gauge 18 20 22 24 26 Ne 14.0/1 - 23.5/1 18.0/1 - 26.0/1 21.5/1 - 29.5/1 23.5/1 - 35.5/1 26.0/1 - 41.5/1

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28 30 32

29.5/1 - 47.5/1 35.5/1 - 59.0/1 41.5/1 - 70.0/1

2. MACHINE DIAMETER:
Machine diameter is mainly diameter of cylinder. It is important for fabric width. Only diameter does not determine the fabric width. It need helps machine gauge and wales space which is depend upon yarn count and loop length.

S/N

Count (Ne) 18 18 20 20 22 22 22 24 24 24 26 26 26 28 28 28 30 30 30 32 32 32 34

Gauge

WPI

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23

20 24 20 24 20 24 28 20 24 28 20 24 28 20 24 28 20 24 28 20 24 28 20

31 31 31.5 31.5 33 33 33 35 35 35 36 36 36 37 37 37 38 38 38 40 40 40 41

Fabric found from 1 inch machine perimeter 0.64516129 0.774193548 0.634920635 0.761904762 0.606060606 0.727272727 0.848484848 0.571428571 0.685714286 0.8 0.555555556 0.666666667 0.777777778 0.540540541 0.648648649 0.756756757 0.526315789 0.631578947 0.736842105 0.5 0.6 0.7 0.487804878

Percentage of fabric found X% 64.51612903 77.41935484 63.49206349 76.19047619 60.60606061 72.72727273 84.84848485 57.14285714 68.57142857 80 55.55555556 66.66666667 77.77777778 54.05405405 64.86486486 75.67567568 52.63157895 63.15789474 73.68421053 50 60 70 48.7804878

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24 25 26 27 28

34 34 36 36 36

24 28 20 24 28

41 41 42 42 42

0.585365854 0.682926829 0.476190476 0.571428571 0.666666667 Fabric dia

X%

58.53658537 68.29268293 47.61904762 57.14285714 66.66666667

So, the machine dia for particular fabric dia is =

x 100

X = percentage of fabric found in relation to The m/c perimeter.

3. NEEDLE GAUGE:
Thickness of needle express by the needle gauge. It is important for selection of machine gauge. Needle gauge is different for the different gauge and different Brand. Some needle gauge found in industries is given below:

Machine gauge

Needle thickness in (mm)

24 28

0.52 0.41

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CHAPTER 4 RESULT AND DISCUSSION

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RESULT & DISCUSSION

From our project work we manage to find the following equations for the selection of yarn count to get required G.S.M. equations vary for fabric types, fabric construction. List of equations are tabulated below: The constant for the plain single jersey is as folow: K (Yarn count X stitch length X GSM) = 12083.96 Relation between the fabric GSM and the yar count: if the GSM of the fabric is x and the count of yarn is y, then the equation for determining GSM and the Yarn count is as follows: GSM, x = 332 - 5.88y & Yarn count (Ne), y = 56 - 0.17x Machine diameter selection:

The relation between the Fabric dia and the Machine dia is =

7 x Fabric dia x Ne
M/C Gauge

Again, the relation can be inversely shown that,

Machine dia x Machine Gauge

Fabric dia (Tubular) =

7 x Ne

From this project we know about realation between fabric GSM & yarn count. We can make any kind of yarn to fabric but thats has less quality full fabric. We got some measurement for got appropriate Fabric GSM to take appropriate yarn count.
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CHAPTER 5 CONCLUSION

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CONCLUSION

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Reference
www.google.com www.scripbd.com www.matrixcontrols.com www.fibre2fashion.com http://158.132.122.156/itc/macau/defects/tsld003.htm www.saarczone.com www.apparelsearch.com www.highbeam.com www.encyclopedia.com www.resil.com www.ntcresearch.org www.iso.org www.trg.sagepub.com www.indiantextilejournal.com  www.sitra.org  www.taispk.com              

Project Incharge: Prof. Dr. ENgg. Ayub Nabi Khan