KANTHA

Kantha Embroidery by Self Help Enterprise based in Kolkata. Photography taken by Craftmark in 2011.

TABLE OF CONTENTS
Introduction Global Presence Region Community Materials Tools Process Motifs Products Innovations Challenges 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 3 3 3 4

Introduction Kantha is a kind of embroidery, popular in West Bengal and Bangladesh. The traditional form of this embroidery was done on soft dhotis and saris. The thread for this was drawn out of the borders of used cloth. It is a simple running stitch made on the edges. When five to six layers of the cloth were embroidered together it formed a quilt. Fewer layers of the cloth are used to make clothes for other purposes. The outer layers of the cloth comprises of white or light colored clothes which made the embroidery perceptible. Depending on the use of the finished product they were known as Lepkantha, Sujni Kantha etc. The oldest extant kantha date from the early 1800s and is embroidered with blue, black and red threads that were unraveled from sari borders. Because they were salvaged from used garments that had been frequently laundered and the colors tend to be muted. Global Presence Kantha embroidery is also practiced in Bangladesh Region In India, Kantha embroidery is typical of West Bengal and Bihar. Community It is essentially practiced by women for making gifts for family and friends. The work of Hindu and Muslim differ in the kind of motifs and the patterns used. Materials Re-used cloth such as those from saris and dhotis, silk threads, threads drawn from old sari borders and dhotis Tools Needle and thread Process The unique thing about the Kantha is that it is made entirely from re-used cloth; threads removed from it are used to secure the layers together. The sari borders that are removed are often re-introduced as stripes which form the borders of the quilt. The density and direction of the running stitch creates a unique tonality and rippled effect. 2

1) It involves laying the worn cloth and stitching them together 2) The design is traced and then covered with running stitches using recycled thread For making garments1) The artist draws a repeatable pattern on layers of cloth 2) The pattern is traced on the fabric using indigo 3) It is then embroidered along the trace using threads of various colours Motifs Muslim Kantha embroiders generally use more geometrical patterns and floral motifs while Hindu motifs are pictorial and narrative drawn from daily life and embroidered around a central floral motif. The design usually relies on a central circular form occupied by a many-petalled lotus flower and four mango or tree motifs to mark the four-directional axis. The space between the lotus and the trees is filled in with figures, objects and symbolic motifs. The lotus as a central form is similar to the form of alpanathe ritual floor painting practiced in West Bengal. Products There are seven different types of Kantha:

Lep Kantha: rectangular wraps heavily padded to make warm coverlets Sujani Kantha: rectangular pieces of cloth used as blankets or spreads on ceremonial occasions. Baiton Kantha: square wraps used for covering books and other valuables. They are elaborately patterned with borders of several rows of colorful designs. Oaar Kantha: rectangular pillow covers in simple designs with a decorative border sewn around the edges. Archilata Kantha: small, rectangular covers for mirrors or toilet accessories with wide, colorful borders in assorted motifs. Durjani/thalia Kantha: small rectangles with a central lotus design and embroidered borders. Three corners of the rectangle are folded inward to form a wallet. Rumal kantha are used as absorbent wipes or plate coverings. They also feature a central lotus with ornamented borders.

Innovations Several voluntary and welfare organisations have set up units, encouraging the practice of the art and providing a secondary income to women.

Challenges Bibliography Ranjan, A and Ranjan M.P. Handmade in India. New Delhi: COHANDS, Mapin , 2007. Print. Kantha-Stiches. Sashaworld.com. Sasha. Web. 15 Mar. 2011. < http://www.sashaworld.com/kantha/kantha.htm>