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YOUR FREE COPY 16 JANUARY-15 FEBRUARY 2012 ON THE GROUND SKI RESORTS TO HIT NOW
YOUR FREE COPY
16 JANUARY-15 FEBRUARY 2012
ON THE GROUND
SKI RESORTS TO HIT NOW
NICOLE KIDMAN’S
TRAVEL TIPS
TOURING IRELAND’S WEST
COAST
BRAND NEW OFFERS! NEW FRAGRANCES, SKINCARE, GIFTS, GADGETS, DRINKS & SNACKS | TURN TO PAGES 117 - 146
Contents Issue 59 69 SKI HERE NOW Patrick Thorne, aka the Snowhunter, finds the winter

Contents

Issue 59

Contents Issue 59 69 SKI HERE NOW Patrick Thorne, aka the Snowhunter, finds the winter sports
69 SKI HERE NOW Patrick Thorne, aka the Snowhunter, finds the winter sports destinations around
69 SKI HERE NOW
Patrick Thorne, aka the Snowhunter, finds
the winter sports destinations around
Europe that combine the best of both worlds
– city sights and awesome slopes.
FOR OUR FULL ROUTE MAP VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM FRANCE NUMBER CRUNCHER FOR OUR FULL ROUTE MAP
FOR OUR FULL ROUTE MAP VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM
FRANCE
NUMBER CRUNCHER
FOR OUR FULL ROUTE MAP VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM
The number of “immortals”, or
Ryanair two-minute guides
Ryanair two-minute guides
40
members, of the Académie Française
UK
NUMBER CRUNCHER
2
The number of aardwolves (African mammals
mmals
burgh Zoo
STAY: HOTEL BANKE
EAT: LA PASSERELLE DU CLAIR DE LUNE
EAT: LA TABLE RONDE
Banke
is a sumptuous, boutique four-star
The riches of the sea are featured on the
Gourmet dining optio
with
a brilliant location right by Galeries
menu here, but this is not any old fish
Marseille,
and of cours
Lafayette. The warm-toned interiors
place: think
seared tuna with coriander
speciality. But when y
blend
period features with contemporary
seeds, sea bass in ginger sauce, grilled
classic, well-made lun
furnishings such as Philippe Starck
John Dory with oat risotto and morels…
the bank, crepes are t
stools. The entrance hall (pictured) really
all served
up with an ocean view.
this is the
place to co
has
the wow-factor. Doubles from €180.
3
AVENUE GEORGE V,
24
RUE SYLVABELLE, TE
BURGH
20
RUE LA FAYETTE,
MANCHESTER
TEL:+33 (0)2 9916 9637,
6883, WWW.LATABLERO
TEL: +33 (0)1
5533
2222,
WWW.LA-PASSERELLE-RESTAURANT.COM
WWW.DERBYHOTELS.COM/EN/HOTEL-BANKE
STAY: NEW HOTEL VIE
EAT: SENKAI
Want to combine healthy living and fine
dining? Feast on sustainably sourced sushi,
organic vegetable tempura and more at
this restaurant (pictured) tucked away near
Piccadilly Circus.
STAY: OLD WAVERLEY HOTEL
AVERLEY HOTEL
STAY: HILTON MANCHESTER
STAY: HILTON MANCHESTER
STAY: VILLA REINE HORTENSE
This light,
airy-feeling
There’s been a hotel in this same spot
a
hotel in this same spot
DEANSGATE
DEANSGATE
SEE: MUSEE D’ORSAY
Here’s a chance to stay in one of those
the Old Port and close
on Princes Street for 150 years, and for a
reet
for 150 years, and for a
You You can’t can’t really really miss miss this this Hilton Hilton
as as it’s it’s
The
scaffolding has finally come down,
amazing 19th-century villas that Dinard
historic centre, within
three-star, the Old Waverley has a positively
e
Old Waverley has a positively
located located within within the the vast, vast, glass-fronted glass-fronted
and
now everyone can admire the Musée
is known for (pictured). Built by a
cultural attractions lik
sumptuous, old-world ld-world feel feel – – without without the the
Beetham Beetham Tower. Tower. Its Its Cloud Cloud 23 23 bar bar is is a a well- well-
d’Orsay’s latest face lift. Converted
mysterious Russian prince, it features
Theatre. It’s a great fin
crazy prices to match. You’ll likely find your
o
match. You’ll likely find your
known known and and the the hotel hotel has has just just added added a a spa, spa,
from
a Belle
Epoque train station into
Napoleon III-style furniture and fixtures
Doubles from €70.
CORNER OF AIR STREET, 65 REGENT STREET
room has pretty drapes and chandeliers.
tty
drapes and chandeliers.
Spa Spa 303. 303. Doubles Doubles from from £149 £149 (€175). (€175).
a
museum in 1986, it was high time
and charming
salons for tea sipping.
3
BIS RUE REINE-ELISAB
LONDON W1B, TEL: +44 (0)20 7494 7600,
Doubles from £80 (€94).
£80
(€94).
303
303
DEANSGATE, TEL: +44 (0)161
DEANSGATE, TEL: +44 (0)161
for
a little TLC. The displays have been
Doubles from €150.
9199
2323, WWW.NEW-H
WWW.SENKAIRESTAURANT.COM
43
PRINCES STREET, TEL: +44 (0)131 556
TREET, TEL: +44 (0)131 556
870
870
1600, 1600, WWW.HILTON.CO.UK/ WWW.HILTON.CO.UK/
overhauled,
new gallery spaces have
19
RUE DE LA MALOUINE, TEL: +33 (0)2 9946
4648, WWW.THEEDINBURGHCOLLECTION. HEEDINBURGHCOLLECTION.
MANCHESTERDEANSGATE
MANCHESTERDEANSGATE
opened up, and there’s a new café, too.
5431, WWW.VILLA-REINE-HORTENSE.COM
SEE: MUSEE D’ART CO
SEE: NOISES OFF
This farcical play by Michael Frayn is
all about a theatre company staging a
COM/OLDWAVERLEY ERLEY
62
RUE DE LILLE, TEL: +33 (0)1 4049 4814,
DE MARSEILLE
SEE: GRAYSON PERRY: VISUAL
SEE: GRAYSON PERRY: VISUAL
WWW.MUSEE-ORSAY.FR
SOAK: THALASSA DINARD
Marseille’s contempor
EAT: OLOROSO
SO
DIALOGUES DIALOGUES
referred to as the Mac
(different) farcical play. A befuddling – and
totally hilarious –piece of meta-art.
Enjoy uncommonly monly good good views views across across
Working Working with with a a group group of of youngsters youngsters Pamper aged aged yourself with seawater
EAT: LE FELTEU
this thalassotherapy
mid-1990s and is hom
the Edinburgh skyline and traditional
h
skyline and traditional
15
15
to to 18. 18. Manchester Manchester Art Art Gallery Gallery treatments has has at
Blink
and you’ll miss this little place, but
spa perched on a rocky promontory
diverse collection of p
THE OLD VIC, THE CUT, LONDON SE1,
Scottish dishes at Oloroso (pictured). Try
es
at Oloroso (pictured). Try
created created this this display display looking looking at at the the work work
that
would be a shame because you’d
overlooking
the ocean. Hydromassage,
1960s onwards. Make
TEL: +44 (0)844 871 7628,
smoked salmon with Oloroso sherry for
on
with Oloroso sherry for
of of contemporary contemporary artist artist Grayson Grayson Perry. Perry. It It
miss
out on
hearty servings of excellent
seaweed wraps, body scrubs, and
69
AVENUE DE HAIFA, TE
WWW.OLDVICTHEATRE.COM
example, or a classic haggis.
a
classic haggis.
features features two two pieces pieces by by Perry Perry himself. himself.
bistro
fare, like rib steak, duck magret
reflexology are on offer, plus a variety of
WWW.LESARTISTESCON
33
CASTLE STREET, TEL: +44 (0)131 226 7614,
REET, TEL: +4444 (0)131(0
226 7614,
See it from 1-12 February.
See it from 1-12 February.
and
potatoes gratin dauphinois.
pools filled with purified seawater.
MACMARSEILLE.HTML
DRINK: BUBBLEOLOGY
WWW.OLOROSO.CO.UK
O.CCO.UK
MOSLEY STREET, TEL: +44 (0)161
MOSLEY STREET, TEL: +44 (0)161
235
235 8888,
8888,
43
60
74
80
93–109
MARRAKESH ON
WEST COAST STORY
PARIS IN COLOUR
THE CITY OF
BASKETBALL, BEER
AND BOHEMIANS
TWO-MINUTE GUIDES
THE GROUND
Our in-depth guide to the
best places to stay, eat,
drink, dance and sight-see
in this magical city. All
you need to start planning
your next trip.
Take a road trip from
Dingle to Doolin this winter
and soak up the sights,
sounds, hospitality and
craic of Ireland’s gorgeous
western coast. It’s the
perfect time to go.
The stark skies of January
make the rich colours
of Paris’ streets even more
vivid. A photographer
explains how the colours of
the French capital inspired
her work.
There’s even more to Vilnius
than its celebrated historic
architecture. As a travel
destination, it’s entering a
whole new chapter.
Eight countries, 24 cities,
updated every month –
our destination guides are
packed with ideas for your
trip. Plus, see the Ryanair
route map for a choice of
over 160 destinations.

ContentsIssue 59 Take Off 11 THE FILE Fun facts and figures, including a very quick

Issue 59

Contents Issue 59 Take Off 11 THE FILE Fun facts and figures, including a very quick

Contents Issue 59 Take Off 11 THE FILE Fun facts and figures, including a very quick

Take Off

Contents Issue 59 Take Off 11 THE FILE Fun facts and figures, including a very quick
Contents Issue 59 Take Off 11 THE FILE Fun facts and figures, including a very quick

11

THE FILE

Fun facts and figures, including a very quick quiz. Plus, the dolphin who is a famous face in Ireland.

17

UNDERCURRENTS

Carnival time in Malta, affordable art in

Brussels, Latin spirit in Sweden, circus tricks

in London and more.

The ShortlistsLatin spirit in Sweden, circus tricks in London and more. 23 TECH TALK It’s a new

in Sweden, circus tricks in London and more. The Shortlists 23 TECH TALK It’s a new
in Sweden, circus tricks in London and more. The Shortlists 23 TECH TALK It’s a new
in Sweden, circus tricks in London and more. The Shortlists 23 TECH TALK It’s a new
in Sweden, circus tricks in London and more. The Shortlists 23 TECH TALK It’s a new

23

TECH TALK

It’s a new year so we’re looking at what’s new and cool, starting with the latest gadgets.

27

FASHION FLASH

We check out the new looks in ski-wear and

winter-wear, including

a trend from Norway

that’s dividing opinion.

28

YOU BEAUTY

Our pick of the new and hot cosmetics that will keep you looking tip-top in 2012 and beyond.

30

MADLIST

We’ve found all the coolest places in Europe with ‘new’ in their name. Just for the heck of it, basically.

04

WWW.RYANAIRMAG.COM

Just for the heck of it, basically. 0 4 WWW.RYANAIRMAG.COM Comment Property 32 BEDROOMS When it
Just for the heck of it, basically. 0 4 WWW.RYANAIRMAG.COM Comment Property 32 BEDROOMS When it
Just for the heck of it, basically. 0 4 WWW.RYANAIRMAG.COM Comment Property 32 BEDROOMS When it

CommentJust for the heck of it, basically. 0 4 WWW.RYANAIRMAG.COM Property 32 BEDROOMS When it comes

the heck of it, basically. 0 4 WWW.RYANAIRMAG.COM Comment Property 32 BEDROOMS When it comes to
the heck of it, basically. 0 4 WWW.RYANAIRMAG.COM Comment Property 32 BEDROOMS When it comes to

Propertythe heck of it, basically. 0 4 WWW.RYANAIRMAG.COM Comment 32 BEDROOMS When it comes to new

of it, basically. 0 4 WWW.RYANAIRMAG.COM Comment Property 32 BEDROOMS When it comes to new hotels

32

BEDROOMS

When it comes to new hotels in Europe to see and be seen in, it seems we’re spoiled for choice.

35

FORK IT

These buzzed-about new restaurants, in cities including Paris and Madrid, are winning fans.

36

FIRST ORDERS

Whatever your tipple, raise a glass at these cool new bars – from Marrakesh to Manchester .

39

WHERE I’VE BEEN

Nicole Kidman tells us about her teen backpacking days and why she’d love to live in Italy.

41

SOMETHING

TO DECLARE

Comedian and TV presenter Danny Robins is thinking about bidets.

87

TO BUY IN

Berlin is the city that property investors are talking about. Could you see yourself living here?

The Team EDITORIAL DESIGN EDITOR ART DIRECTOR Ramsay Short Mat Wiggins RAMSAY.SHORT PICTURE EDITOR
The Team
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ART DIRECTOR
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@INK-GLOBAL.COM
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PRODUCTION
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MANAGER
SUB EDITORS
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James Williams,
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Julie Alpine
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CONTRIBUTING EDITORS
LOGISTICS
Lucille Howe,
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Sejal Sukhadwala,
WEBSITE
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Martin, Gary Bryant,
Philip Joyce
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Hugh Godsal
DESIGN DIRECTOR
Julia Murray
COVER
YOUR FREE COPY
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marrakesh
PHOTO JORGE MONEDERO
ART DIRECTION MAT WIGGINS
STYLIST GEORGIA LACEY
HAIR & MAKE-UP KRYSTAL GOHEL
MODEL LEANNE @ MOT
ILLUSTRATION DAVID M. BUISAN
DRESS WWW.FRENCH
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16 JANUARY-15 FEBRUARY 2012
ON THE GROUND
SKI RESORTS
TO HIT
NICOLE
KIDMAN’S
TRAVEL
NOW TIPS
TOURING
IRELAND’S
WEST
COAST
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Ryanair Magazine are not necessarily those of Ryanair.

RYANAIR SKY SHOP

117–146

Check out all our latest offers on food, drink,

cosmetics,c

t.

gifts and more onboard today’s flight.

117–146 Check out all our latest offers on food, drink, cosmetics,c t. gifts and more onboard
Welcome A FEW WORDS FROM RYANAIR’S CHIEF EXEC WELCOME ABOARD The World’s Favourite Airline WELCOME

Welcome

A FEW WORDS FROM RYANAIR’S CHIEF EXEC

WELCOME ABOARD

A FEW WORDS FROM RYANAIR’S CHIEF EXEC WELCOME ABOARD The World’s Favourite Airline WELCOME ABOARD RYANAIR

The World’s Favourite Airline

CHIEF EXEC WELCOME ABOARD The World’s Favourite Airline WELCOME ABOARD RYANAIR AND HAPPY NEW YEAR. Christmas

WELCOME ABOARD RYANAIR AND HAPPY NEW YEAR. Christmas is now

a distant memory and it is time once again to brighten up the winter nights of

January and February by making spring break and summer travel plans. Ryanair’s summer schedule is almost complete and with over 1,400 routes from over 160 airports across 27 countries this year’s summer schedule has something in mind for everyone. Log on to www.ryanair.com to plan your spring break and summer sun holiday at unbeatable prices. 2011 was a fantastic year for Ryanair with over 77 million passengers saving hundreds of millions by taking advantage of Ryanair’s guaranteed lowest fares and no fuel surcharge seats. While passengers will always return to Ryanair for our unbeatable fares, we also offer Europe’s best on time performance, least lost baggage and fewest cancellations all of which has helped us become the world’s favourite airline. On today’s flight, chances are high that you will hear Ryanair’s on time trumpet which our crew will play to celebrate each on time arrival. Ryanair delivers industry leading punctuality with over 90% of our flights landing on time in 2011. Ryanair continues to develop our in-flight offers and we are pleased to now offer ‘retro’ sweets from The Sweet Emporium, which cost just €5 per pack, on

all fights. These delicious sweets are not only a tasty in-flight treat but are also

a great gift item with one love heart variety making the perfect Valentine gift.

Ryanair has a host of treats to ensure that every holiday has a sweet to make it

that bit sweeter. We are also pleased to extend our popular reserved seating service to all our over 1,400 routes, after successfully trialling it on over 100 routes since

May last. The pre-booked service, which is now bookable on all routes, costs just €10 (each way) and includes priority boarding. The optional service allows passengers to pre-reserve seats in the front two rows, for a quick getaway on arrival, or in over wing rows (16&17), which provide greater legroom, and has proven to be very popular with Ryanair passengers during our summer 2011 trial. Ryanair will continue to offer its Priority Boarding service for just €5, with priority and reserved seating passengers allowed to board the aircraft first. Those travelling with passengers under 16 years of age can reserve seats in row 2 only due to safety restrictions. Finally, I hope you enjoy your flight with us today, and I invite you to sit back and treat yourself to a gourmet coffee, a delicious sandwich or “retro” sweets as you relax and allow our crew to take care of you. I look forward to welcoming you and your family onboard many more low fare Ryanair flights in the coming months.

Best Wishes, MICHAEL O’LEARY
Best Wishes,
MICHAEL O’LEARY

Chief Executive

ILLUSTRATION: SCOTT CHAMBERS / WWW.SYNERGYART.CO.UK

ILLUSTRATION: SCOTT CHAMBERS / WWW.SYNERGYART.CO.UK Welcome NEW IDEAS FOR THE NEW YEAR “It’s a new dawn,

Welcome

NEW IDEAS FOR THE NEW YEAR

/ WWW.SYNERGYART.CO.UK Welcome NEW IDEAS FOR THE NEW YEAR “It’s a new dawn, it’s a new

“It’s a new dawn, it’s a new day, it’s a new life, for me, and I’m feeling good,” sang Nina Simone on Feeling Good, and I certainly am this new year. The world’s economies may be struggling but I can still get a Ryanair flight for less than a tenner — and that’s always a bargain! Not only will Ryanair be serving up new routes and destinations this year but new is also the watchword for our Upfront section this issue, with reviews of new gadgets, restaurants, hotels and bars, as well as the latest events happening across Europe. And because it’s winter, many people will be looking to jet off and find some sun. So why not see what’s new in one of my favourite destinations, Marrakesh, in our 13-page cover story on page 43? If you’ve ever been you’ll know why we love it, and if you’ve never been there’s never been a better time. The weather’s great now and the food is even better. The last time I was there I experienced all the fun of the fair, and then some. When I started my stroll in the vast square of Marrakesh that is Jamaa el Fna, I definitely looked like me.

By the time I reached the other side I resembled something else entirely. The first person I met was a henna tattooist in a beautiful blue djellaba and soon I’d agreed to have a long spiral design drawn all over my arm. A precocious boy watching this heard me compliment the tattooist’s robe and immediately pulled a bunch of different djellabas from his bag. It didn’t take much persuasion for me to purchase a deep maroon one with a long cob (the djellaba’s pointy hood). Then, the boy pulled me towards a stall owned by his uncle selling the best fruits, nuts and spices in town – and spice lover that I am I bought a few bags and an orange that was absolutely delicious. Finally, I sat down at one of the many food stalls in the square for a vegetable tagine and some mint tea. I ended up looking as if I wasn’t a tourist at all but had always lived in the square, and I learned a bit of Arabic too. Talk about assimilation – the perfect trip! Wherever you’re off to this month, have a great flight and a great time.

RAMSAY SHORT Editor
RAMSAY SHORT
Editor

08

WWW.RYANAIRMAG.COM

a great time. RAMSAY SHORT Editor 0 8 WWW.RYANAIRMAG.COM Contributors THE SNOWHUNTER Patrick Thorne, aka, the

Contributors

RAMSAY SHORT Editor 0 8 WWW.RYANAIRMAG.COM Contributors THE SNOWHUNTER Patrick Thorne, aka, the Snowhunter, has been

THE SNOWHUNTER

Patrick Thorne, aka, the Snowhunter, has been a ski journalist for more than 25 years and has visited more than 250 skiing locations around the world. No wonder he was listed as “one of 20 people to know in skiing” by The Times. Get some ski tips from him on page 69.

by The Times . Get some ski tips from him on page 69. TURTLE BUNBURY Writer

TURTLE BUNBURY

Writer and TV presenter Turtle (www. turtlebunbury.com) lives in County Carlow, Ireland. His books include the Vanishing Ireland series, and he has been published in titles such as The Irish Times and New York Post. Take a trip around west Ireland with him on page 60.

Post . Take a trip around west Ireland with him on page 60. MATTHEW LEE Matthew

MATTHEW LEE

Matthew lives in London where he works on Delayed Gratification, which he describes as “the first magazine dedicated to Slow Journalism”. Check it out at www.dgquarterly.com. He writes regularly about the Arab world and brings us his insider’s guide to Marrakesh on page 43.

Explore Norway - the the easy easy way! way! Book tours, hotels and activities all

Explore Norway -

the the easy easy way! way!

Explore Norway - the the easy easy way! way! Book tours, hotels and activities all in
Explore Norway - the the easy easy way! way! Book tours, hotels and activities all in

Book tours, hotels and

- the the easy easy way! way! Book tours, hotels and activities all in one package.

activities all in one package.

way! Book tours, hotels and activities all in one package. Geiranger & Norway in a nutshell
way! Book tours, hotels and activities all in one package. Geiranger & Norway in a nutshell
way! Book tours, hotels and activities all in one package. Geiranger & Norway in a nutshell
way! Book tours, hotels and activities all in one package. Geiranger & Norway in a nutshell
way! Book tours, hotels and activities all in one package. Geiranger & Norway in a nutshell
way! Book tours, hotels and activities all in one package. Geiranger & Norway in a nutshell
Geiranger & Norway in a nutshell ® Sognefjord in a nutshell Norway in a nutshell
Geiranger & Norway
in a nutshell ®
Sognefjord
in a nutshell
Norway
in a nutshell ®
- A taste of world heritage!
This tour takes you to the
Geirangerfjord and Nærøyfjord,
two of Norway’s most beauti-
ful fjords that both feature on
UNESCO’s World Heritage List.
Other highlights include the
Raumabanen railway and a beau-
tiful sea voyage on the Hurti-
gruten coastal express. Relax and
enjoy the experience, visit the Art
Nouveau Centre in Ålesund, stroll
along Bryggen wharf in Bergen
or walk in the Flåmsdalen valley.
- Huge fjord, huge experience!
Combine a beautiful boat trip on
the Sognefjord – Norway’s long-
est and deepest fjord – with a
spectacular train ride on the Flåm
Railway, a masterpiece of engi-
neering! We recommend an over-
night stay en route in order to
fully experience the breathtaking
scenery of the Sognefjord.
– Norway’s most popular round
trip!
This tour includes the spectacu-
lar Flåm Railway, the unbelievably
narrow Nærøyfjord and the steep
hairpin bends of Stalheimskleiva
(May – September). Combine an
overnight stay in Flåm with a fjord
safari, kayaking or a walk along
the Nærøyfjord.
ÅLESUND ÅNDALSNES DOMBÅS GEIRANGER BALESTRAND GUDVANGEN FLÅM STALHEIM MYRDAL ULVIK VOSS BERGEN Geiranger
ÅLESUND
ÅNDALSNES
DOMBÅS
GEIRANGER
BALESTRAND
GUDVANGEN
FLÅM
STALHEIM
MYRDAL
ULVIK
VOSS
BERGEN
Geiranger & Norway in a nutshell ®
Sognefjord in a nutshell
Norway in a nutshell ®
OSLO
® Sognefjord in a nutshell Norway in a nutshell ® OSLO FOR BOOKING AND MORE INFORMATION:
® Sognefjord in a nutshell Norway in a nutshell ® OSLO FOR BOOKING AND MORE INFORMATION:

FOR BOOKING AND MORE INFORMATION:

Visit www.fjordtours.com or call Fjord Tours Customer phone: +47 815 68 222.

® OSLO FOR BOOKING AND MORE INFORMATION: Visit www.fjordtours.com or call Fjord Tours Customer phone: +47
® OSLO FOR BOOKING AND MORE INFORMATION: Visit www.fjordtours.com or call Fjord Tours Customer phone: +47
Take Off FACTS, FIGURES AND NONSENSE FROM RYANAIR’S DESTINATIONS RITES OF PASSAGE CHINESE NEW YEAR

Take Off

FACTS, FIGURES AND NONSENSE FROM RYANAIR’S DESTINATIONS

FACTS, FIGURES AND NONSENSE FROM RYANAIR’S DESTINATIONS RITES OF PASSAGE CHINESE NEW YEAR FROM 23 JANUARY
FACTS, FIGURES AND NONSENSE FROM RYANAIR’S DESTINATIONS RITES OF PASSAGE CHINESE NEW YEAR FROM 23 JANUARY

RITES OF PASSAGEFACTS, FIGURES AND NONSENSE FROM RYANAIR’S DESTINATIONS CHINESE NEW YEAR FROM 23 JANUARY 2012 Welcome to

CHINESE NEW YEAR

FROM 23 JANUARY 2012

Welcome to the Year of the Dragon! Regarded as the most important of all Chinese holiday dates, Chinese New Year traditionally marks the end of winter, and the celebrations can last for about two weeks. You can rely on a host of extravagant parades, parties and decorations on the streets of any Chinatown district. Whether it’s in Paris’ 13th arrondissement, London’s Soho or Stockholm’s Hötorget, there is probably a Chinatown somewhere near you. The Chinese New Year tradition of wearing red, hanging lanterns and letting off firecrackers is said to scare away a mythical beast called the Nian, which eats crops and livestock. We haven’t heard of anyone seeing the Nian recently, but maybe that’s because we keep celebrating Chinese New Year.

FLY TO LONDON (GATWICK, LUTON AND STANSTED) , LONDON (GATWICK, LUTON AND STANSTED),

PARIS (BEAUVAIS AND VATRY) AND STOCKHOLM (SKAVSTA AND VÄSTERÅS). WWW.RYANAIR.COM

THE NUMBERS 560,190 IMPRESS YOUR TRAVELLING COMPANIONS ¼ Population of Vilnius, Lithuania 42 million Area
THE NUMBERS
560,190
IMPRESS YOUR TRAVELLING COMPANIONS
¼
Population of
Vilnius, Lithuania
42 million
Area of the historic
Old Town in Vilnius
(one of Europe’s largest)
Tourists who visit Paris and its
suburbs annually
3.6KM 2
2
Calories in
188
the average
croissant
2million
Clubbers
210
13
that can
fit inside
Litres of water in the
London Aquarium
Pacha
Sharks
Length in
km of Ibiza’s
coastline
3,500
you
40
can see
there
Maximum
length in
centimetres
a Clownfish
can grow to
Proportion
of
the gross
domestic
product that’s
of
France
produced
by
Paris
and the
Paris
region
YOURSHOUT DUBLIN, IRELAND THIS MONTH, WE ASKED: Where’s the best place for a pint of
YOURSHOUT
DUBLIN, IRELAND
THIS MONTH,
WE ASKED:
Where’s the
best place
for a pint of
Guinness in
Dublin?
“A pub called The
Quays — it always
has a brilliant
atmosphere.”
“The Stags Head is
one of the oldest
pubs in town — it’s
great.”
“O’Donoghue’s,
because the
barmen are
handsome!”
SIOBAN KELLY,
SOPHIE DEVERE,
EWA DURAJ,
JOURNALIST
WAITRESS
TRAINING COORDINATOR
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PHOTO: GEORGI MITCHELL. QUIZ ANSWER: A

PHOTO: GEORGI MITCHELL. QUIZ ANSWER: A Take Off IRELAND'S CELEBRITYDOLPHIN GIVING LIFE A SENSE OF PORPOISE

Take Off

IRELAND'S CELEBRITYDOLPHIN GIVING LIFE A SENSE OF PORPOISE Are you a fan of Fungie? If
IRELAND'S CELEBRITYDOLPHIN
GIVING LIFE A SENSE OF PORPOISE
Are you a fan of Fungie? If you don’t
know who this cetacean celebrity is,
he’s a bottlenose dolphin who has
been sighted off the coast of Dingle,
in Ireland’s County Kerry, since about
1983. He regularly interacts with divers
and people on boats.
One local sailor, who has been seeing
Fungie (pictured) from his boat since
1987, tells us: “Fungie regularly comes
totally out of the water and up onto my
boat. He’s an incredible creature and
deserves to be treated with respect.
He’s very friendly for a wild animal,
and from the time I’ve spent with him,
I’m convinced he even has a sense of
humour. He seems to genuinely enjoy
human company.”
Fungie gets a shout-out in our feature
on Ireland’s west coast on page 60.
WWW.DINGLEDOLPHIN.COM
FLY TO KERRY FROM FRANKFURT (HAHN) AND LONDON
(LUTON AND STANSTED). WWW.RYANAIR.COM
Drop what you’re
doing and
THREE OFTHEBEST
GUIDED WALKING TOURS
answer this!
The Mayor of
Vilnius made
headlines in 2011
when he used a
tank to crush an
illegally parked…
CELEBRITY TOUR OF
NOTTING HILL
CHANEL AND THE
RUE ST HONORE
DUBLIN LITERARY
PUB CRAWL
A
LONDON, UK
PARIS. FRANCE
DUBLIN, IRELAND
Car
BONAPPETIT
THIS MONTH’S SNACK ATTACK:
BRIDIES, SCOTLAND
B
Scotland’s answer to the Cornish pasty is the
bridie. This pastry-based bad boy conceals a
hidden treasure of minced steak and vegetables.
The pastry is somewhat paler and lighter than a
Cornish, but always hits the spot after the pub.
The award-winning craft bakery chain Brownings
has a branch right by Prestwick airport (6
Portland Street, Troon, tel: +44 (0)1292 317942),
so go grab one when you touch down.
Take this 2.5 hour
tour and see where
Elle Macpherson and
Robbie Williams live,
as well as Damon
Albarn’s favourite
record shop and the
hotel where Hendrix
overdosed. If you do
see your favourite
celeb, just don’t turn
into a stalker.
Bicycle
£15 (€17), WWW.THE
CELEBRITYPLANET.COM
This tour of Parisian
chic past and present
is a chance to learn
the history of the big
Paris fashion houses
and gain an insight
into the influence
of Coco Chanel in
particular. Stop off
at the Chanel and
Hermes boutiques,
and Coco’s former
home, the Ritz.
€20, WWW.PARIS-
Sink a Guinness in
the pubs frequented
by Ireland’s literary
heroes, and learn
more about the
wordsmiths whose
footsteps you’re
following in. On
this award-winning
walking tour, actors
will pop out of corners
to speak the words of
Joyce, Beckett, Wilde
and others.
FLY TO LONDON
WALKS.COM
€12, WWW.DUBLIN
(GATWICK, LUTON AND
STANSTED) FROM OVER
100 DESTINATIONS,
INCLUDING MADRID.
WWW.RYANAIR.COM
FLY TO PARIS
PUBCRAWL.COM
C
WORDS BY CHRIS BEANLAND
FLY TO GLASGOW (PRESTWICK) FROM 10 DESTINATIONS,
Ice cream van
INCLUDING DUBLIN, MALAGA AND RIGA. WWW.RYANAIR.COM
(BEAUVAIS AND VATRY)
FROM 34 DESTINATIONS,
INCLUDING PESCARA.
WWW.RYANAIR.COM
FLY TO DUBLIN FROM
52 DESTINATIONS,
INCLUDING KAUNAS.
WWW.RYANAIR.COM

Miss August

Ryanair Inflight Promotion

Ryanair Inflight Promotion

TEAM: PHO TOGRAPHYJOHN ROWLEY (WWW.JOHNROWLEY.CO.UK) /THE STYLIST NENA NICOLE / HAIR DONNA ROBERTS AT JAMES ENGLISH PRODUCTIONS / MAKE-UP BETTY LOU USING MAC / ART DIRECTION NOEL GIBBONS / PRODUCTION WWW.JAMESENGLISHPRODUCTIONS. COM /RETOUCHING DAVID CHAMBERS / GRAPHIC DESIGN PEGASUS / RYANAIR BRAND MANAGER KATE SHERRY. SHOT ON LOCATION IN LANZAROTE WITH SPECIAL THANKS TO THE LANZAROTE TOURIST BOARD (WWW.TURISMOLANZAROTE.COM) AND VIK HOTEL SAN ANTONIO (WWW.VIKHOLIDAYS.COM/LANZAROTE/ VIK-HOTEL-SAN-ANTONIO).

Cabin crew member Roberta is one of the stars of the 2012 charity calendar. She flew to the sunny island of Lanzarote to take part in this year’s photo shoot, helping to raise thousands of euros for our chosen charity, Debra. The Ryanair team had a fantastic experience shooting in the Canaries and soaking up the scenery. Thanks for being part of it, Roberta!

Debra works on behalf of people in the UK with the genetic skin blistering condition EB. Visit www.debra.org.uk

FLY TO LANZAROTE FROM 26 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING LONDON (LUTON AND STANSTED). WWW.RYANAIR.COM

ABOUT OUR CHOSEN CHARITY, DEBRA

CABIN CREW CHARITY CALENDAR 2012
CABIN CREW CHARITY CALENDAR 2012
INCLUDING LONDON (LUTON AND STANSTED) . WWW.RYANAIR.COM ABOUT OUR CHOSEN CHARITY, DEBRA CABIN CREW CHARITY CALENDAR
INCLUDING LONDON (LUTON AND STANSTED) . WWW.RYANAIR.COM ABOUT OUR CHOSEN CHARITY, DEBRA CABIN CREW CHARITY CALENDAR
INCLUDING LONDON (LUTON AND STANSTED) . WWW.RYANAIR.COM ABOUT OUR CHOSEN CHARITY, DEBRA CABIN CREW CHARITY CALENDAR
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PHOTOS: SACHA GOLDBERGER, LOVE TEMPLE BAR

PHOTOS: SACHA GOLDBERGER, LOVE TEMPLE BAR Take Off THE BEST FESTIVALS, EVENTS, PARTIES AND MORE HAPPENING

Take Off

THE BEST FESTIVALS, EVENTS, PARTIES AND MORE HAPPENING ACROSS THE RYANAIR NETWORK

PARTIES AND MORE HAPPENING ACROSS THE RYANAIR NETWORK BRUSSELS, BELGIUM 9-12 FEB AFFORDABLE ART FAIR There’s
PARTIES AND MORE HAPPENING ACROSS THE RYANAIR NETWORK BRUSSELS, BELGIUM 9-12 FEB AFFORDABLE ART FAIR There’s

BRUSSELS, BELGIUM

9-12 FEB

AFFORDABLE ART FAIR

There’s a diverse range of pieces (and prices) at this contemporary art fair, which you may also have seen in cities like London and Milan. The fair was started by London gallerist Will Ramsay, with the aim of making it easier for everyone to own and enjoy contemporary art. You’re sure to find something that catches your eye — and some work is less than €100. The photo above is by Sacha Goldberger, whose subject is his 91-year-old gran.

WWW.AFFORDABLEARTFAIR.BE

FLY TO BRUSSELS (CHARLEROI) FROM 64 DESTINATIONS, BRUSSELS (CHARLEROI) FROM 64 DESTINATIONS,

INCLUDING KAUNAS AND MALTA (LUQA). WWW.RYANAIR.COM

INCLUDING KAUNAS AND MALTA (LUQA) . WWW.RYANAIR.COM DUBLIN, IRELAND 25-29 JAN TEMPLEBAR TRAD FEST Dublin’s

DUBLIN, IRELAND

25-29 JANKAUNAS AND MALTA (LUQA) . WWW.RYANAIR.COM DUBLIN, IRELAND TEMPLEBAR TRAD FEST Dublin’s biggest festival of

TEMPLEBAR TRAD FEST

Dublin’s biggest festival of traditional Irish music and culture, Templebar Trad Fest sees a host of Irish music gigs taking place at venues such as Christ Church Cathedral, the Button Factory and Dublin’s City Hall (which hosts intimate lunchtime and evening concerts all week). There’ll also be Irish dancing, street performers and over 200 free events. The two-time winner of “Best Traditional Music Festival” at the Festival Awards, this fest guarantees some raucous nights out. See the website for full listings.

WWW.TEMPLEBARTRAD.COM

FLY TO DUBLIN FROM 52 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING DUBLIN FROM 52 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING

BERLIN (SCHÖNEFELD) AND TALLINN. WWW.RYANAIR.COM

PHOTOS: ICE CLIMBING WORLD CUP, VISIT SCOTLAND, MARIO GALEA

PHOTOS: ICE CLIMBING WORLD CUP, VISIT SCOTLAND, MARIO GALEA Take Off LA PLAGNE, FRANCE 3-4 FEB

Take Off

LA PLAGNE, FRANCE 3-4 FEB ICE CLIMBING WORLD CUP Head to the valley of Champagny
LA PLAGNE, FRANCE
3-4 FEB
ICE CLIMBING WORLD CUP
Head to the valley of Champagny
in the resort of La Plagne (about
an hour from Grenoble) to witness
the ultimate ice-climbing event.
Competitors in this world cup —
which attracts climbers from 29
nations — are required to scale the
imposing Ice Tower, standing at 24m.
Rather them than us!
WWW.LA-PLAGNE.COM
FLY TO GRENOBLE FROM DUBLIN AND LONDON
(STANSTED). WWW.RYANAIR.COM

ACROSS SCOTLAND

4 FEB-18 MARAND LONDON (STANSTED). WWW.RYANAIR.COM ACROSS SCOTLAND SCOTTISH SNOWDROP FESTIVAL As iconic symbols of spring go,

SCOTTISH SNOWDROP FESTIVAL

As iconic symbols of spring go, snowdrops are up there with frolicking lambs – and are one of the earliest signs of the warmer weather to come. If you don’t want to leave seeing them to chance this year, Visit Scotland offers a detailed list of stately homes, deer parks and other landscapes across the country where you can see swathes of the little white flowers. The Scottish Snowdrop Festival includes over 50 locations for spotting snowdrops, including Valleyfield Woodland Park (pictured), about an hour from Edinburgh, and Finlaystone Country Estate, about 20 minutes from Glasgow.

WWW.VISITSCOTLAND.COM/SURPRISESNOWDROP

FLY TO EDINBURGH FROM 25 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING EDINBURGH FROM 25 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING

BRATISLAVA, FRANKFURT (HAHN) AND PARIS (BEAUVAIS). FLY TO GLASGOW (PRESTWICK) FROM 10 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING DUBLIN, FARO AND RIGA. WWW.RYANAIR.COM

INCLUDING DUBLIN , FARO AND RIGA . WWW.RYANAIR.COM MALTA 17-21 FEB CARNIVAL In February we’re all

MALTA

17-21 FEBINCLUDING DUBLIN , FARO AND RIGA . WWW.RYANAIR.COM MALTA CARNIVAL In February we’re all hankering after

CARNIVAL

In February we’re all hankering after a bit of winter sun and an escape from the daily grind. The island of Malta is the place to head to, and all the more so if you rock up during Carnival. The action takes place across the country, but gets especially exciting in Valletta, Floriana, and Nadur on Gozo. Many of the events are free, including live music shows, and anyone and everyone is invited to don a colourful costume and join in the party. The celebrations round off in Floriana on Tuesday 21 February with a carnival procession along the main street, as the fireworks start booming.

WWW.VISITMALTA.COM

FLY TO MALTA (LUQA) FROM 16 DESTINATIONS, MALTA (LUQA) FROM 16 DESTINATIONS,

INCLUDING BIRMINGHAM, LONDON (LUTON), STOCKHOLM (SKAVSTA) AND VALENCIA. WWW.RYANAIR.COM

INCLUDING BIRMINGHAM , LONDON (LUTON) , STOCKHOLM (SKAVSTA) AND VALENCIA . WWW.RYANAIR.COM RYANAIR MAGAZINE 19

Take OffGOTHENBURG, SWEDEN UNTIL 6 MAR WEST SIDE STORY Brighten up a winter’s evening with a

Take Off GOTHENBURG, SWEDEN UNTIL 6 MAR WEST SIDE STORY Brighten up a winter’s evening with
GOTHENBURG, SWEDEN UNTIL 6 MAR WEST SIDE STORY Brighten up a winter’s evening with a
GOTHENBURG, SWEDEN
UNTIL 6 MAR
WEST SIDE STORY
Brighten up a winter’s evening with a trip to the Göteborg Opera, where
current shows include a new production of West Side Story (pictured),
packed with plenty of Latin spirit. Where do these Swedes get it from?
Also on the menu is an avant-garde dance piece, the contemporary
ballet noBody, which opens on 25 February.
WWW.EN.OPERA.SE
FLY TO GOTHENBURG CITY FROM NINE DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING ALICANTE,
KLAGENFURT, LONDON (STANSTED) AND ROME (CIAMPINO). WWW.RYANAIR.COM
LONDON (STANSTED) AND ROME (CIAMPINO). WWW.RYANAIR.COM OSLO, NORWAY 16-18 FEB BY:LARM You may not know all

OSLO, NORWAY

16-18 FEB

BY:LARM

You may not know all the bands on the bill at this Nordic music festival, as many are new and/or unsigned, but the quality is consistently high. The name By: Larm means “city noise” and the event spans genres from dance pop to doom metal. It feels as though it takes over the whole Norwegian capital, with gigs in all the main music venues and after- parties in clubs and bars. We love the all-ages shows that see even the littlest Norwegians rocking out. Among the performers you can catch this year is Norwegian singer Gunnhild Sundli (pictured).

WWW.BYLARM.NO

FLY TO OSLO (RYGGE AND TORP) FROM 23 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING BRUSSELS OSLO (RYGGE AND TORP) FROM 23 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING BRUSSELS

(CHARLEROI), LONDON (GATWICK AND STANSTED) AND ROME (CIAMPINO). WWW.RYANAIR.COM

PHOTOS: TINE HAGFORS, GÖTEBORG OPERA, CIRQUE DU SOLEIL
PHOTOS: TINE HAGFORS, GÖTEBORG OPERA, CIRQUE DU SOLEIL
LONDON, UK UNTIL 5 FEB
LONDON, UK
UNTIL 5 FEB

CIRQUE DU SOLEIL

The behemoth of an acrobatic troupe are back in the British capital with another world-beating stage show, Totem, at the Royal Albert Hall. The production is loosely themed around evolution and creation, replete with all the eye-popping physical theatre and circus skills that we’ve come to expect from Cirque.

WWW.ROYALALBERTHALL.COM

we’ve come to expect from Cirque. WWW.ROYALALBERTHALL.COM FLY TO LONDON (GATWICK, LUTON AND STANSTED) FROM OVER

FLY TO LONDON (GATWICK, LUTON AND STANSTED) FROM OVER 100 DESTINATIONS,

INCLUDING BRATISLAVA (VIENNA), EINDHOVEN AND KATOWICE. WWW.RYANAIR.COM

THE PERFECT EXPERIENCE IN TENERIFE | LA EXPERIENCIA PERFECTA EN TENERIFE The ‘Island of Eternal
THE PERFECT EXPERIENCE IN TENERIFE | LA EXPERIENCIA PERFECTA EN TENERIFE The ‘Island of Eternal
THE PERFECT EXPERIENCE IN TENERIFE | LA EXPERIENCIA PERFECTA EN TENERIFE The ‘Island of Eternal
THE PERFECT EXPERIENCE IN TENERIFE | LA EXPERIENCIA PERFECTA EN TENERIFE The ‘Island of Eternal
THE PERFECT EXPERIENCE IN TENERIFE | LA EXPERIENCIA PERFECTA EN TENERIFE The ‘Island of Eternal
THE PERFECT EXPERIENCE IN TENERIFE | LA EXPERIENCIA PERFECTA EN TENERIFE The ‘Island of Eternal

THE PERFECT EXPERIENCE IN TENERIFE | LA EXPERIENCIA PERFECTA EN TENERIFE

The ‘Island of Eternal Spring’ is just waiting for you all year round. Spend unforgettable holidays by enjoying yourself at Loro Parque, an astonishing diversity of fauna and flora which will leave you speechless and in Siam Park, the Water Kingdom, the most spectacular water park in the world.

La isla de la eterna primavera le espera en cualquier época del año. Disfrute de unas vacaciones inolvidables divirtiéndose en Loro Parque, una maravillosa diversidad de fauna y flora que le dejará boquiabierto y en Siam Park, the water kingdom, el parque acuático más espectacular del mundo.

Make your dream holiday come true | Viva unas vacaciones de ensueño

el parque acuático más espectacular del mundo. Make your dream holiday come true | Viva unas
el parque acuático más espectacular del mundo. Make your dream holiday come true | Viva unas
el parque acuático más espectacular del mundo. Make your dream holiday come true | Viva unas

www.ryg.no

This is Norway

Experience northern lights or midnight sun above the Arctic Circle, or visit the world famous Norwegian fjords with tall mountains and glaciers.

Fly with Ryanair to Norway

www.visitnorway.com

and glaciers. Fly with Ryanair to Norway www.visitnorway.com Oslo Between the Oslofjord and the forests of

Oslo

Between the Oslofjord and the forests of Marka lies the Norwegian capital. Explore the combination of city life and easy access to the great outdoors.

www.visitoslo.com

Moss Airport Rygge is centrally located in southeastern Norway. With a new terminal building, infrastructure, parking area and runway, this airport is personally organized to offer a wide spectrum of national and international scheduled routes and charter traffic. All major rental-car companies represented!

charter traffic. All major rental-car companies represented! Phone: +47 69 23 00 00, Adress: Terminalveien 100,

Phone: +47 69 23 00 00, Adress: Terminalveien 100, 1580 Rygge, Norway, e-mail: post@ryg.no For more information visit: www.ryg.no

PHOTO: WWW.PIXELEYES.CO.UK

PHOTO: WWW.PIXELEYES.CO.UK The Shortlists SUSI WEASER HAS A HIGH-TECH NEW YEAR Great new gadgets for 2012

The Shortlists

PHOTO: WWW.PIXELEYES.CO.UK The Shortlists SUSI WEASER HAS A HIGH-TECH NEW YEAR Great new gadgets for 2012

SUSI WEASER HAS A HIGH-TECH NEW YEAR

Great new gadgets for 2012 2 Our Fave THIS ISSUE 1 3 4 5 1
Great new
gadgets for 2012
2
Our
Fave
THIS ISSUE
1
3
4
5
1 / KINDLE
2 / ASUS ZENBOOK
3 / FUJI X100
4 / NOKIA LUMIA 800
There’s something to be said
for one device doing one
thing well, and the Kindle
excels as an e-book reader.
This latest model is smaller,
lighter and faster than ever,
but still has room for up to
1,400 books and a battery life
of up to one month.
This gorgeous laptop with
Windows 7 is Asus’s answer
to MacBook Air – and a fine
alternative it is too. Zenbook
can wake up in just two
seconds and stay on standby
for two weeks. The aluminium
body makes it light as a
feather (11.6-inch pictured).
Despite sporting the kind
of retro looks that wouldn’t
look out of place in a 1970s
Vogue shoot, this camera has
nothing but new technology
inside. Taking 12MP stills and
video, and with both LCD and
optical viewfinders, it could
be Fuji’s best effort yet.
Nokia has produced the first
Windows Phone 7 to really
be a contender. It’s got nice
touches like grouping all
your Facebook, Twitter, SMS
and email stuff in the People
hub, and an 8MP camera and
curved 3.7-inch screen (price
depends on contract).
5 / MICROSOFT
TOUCH MOUSE
The front section of this
mouse is an easy-to-use
touch surface, with controls
such as flicking two fingers
down to minimise a window.
It can run over just about any
surface, and is designed to
work with Windows 7.
€99 WWW.AMAZON.COM
€994 WWW.PCWORLD.CO.UK
€940 WWW.FUJIFILM.EU
WWW.NOKIA.COM
€80 WWW.MICROSOFTSTORE.COM

Travel companions

Airport specialists Dixons Travel showcase some great new gadgets for people on the go, from headphones and speakers to the latest sleeping technology

2 3 1 4 5 6 7 Beats Pro TM High Performance Professional Headphones from
2
3
1
4
5
6
7
Beats Pro TM High Performance
Professional Headphones
from Monster
11 Beats Studio
headphones in Orange.
22 Beats Dettox
headphones.
33 Beats Studio
headphones in blue.
44 Beats Pro
headphones in black.
55 Beats Solo
headphones in black.
66 Beats Tour
headphones in white.
77 Beats Solo

Meticulously designed for audio and studio professionals, Beats Pro High Performance Professional Headphones from Monster give listeners sound the way professionals intended it to be heard. For engineers mixing a track or music enthusiasts who want to hear big beats that kick, Beats Pro delivers high-quality sound for every genre of music. Beats Pro High Performance Professional Headphones from Monster are available at all Dixons Retail stores.

headhones in red.

*INTERNET-BEATING PRICES ON ALL CAMERAS, CAMCORDERS, LAPTOPS & IPODS. TWICE WEEKLY WE CHECK THE PRICES ON AMAZON.CO.UK, JOHNLEWIS.CO.UK AND COMET.CO.UK (INCLUDING DELIVERY) OF IDENTICAL PRODUCTS IN STOCK ON THESE WEBSITES. THIRD PARTY SELLERS’ PRICES EXCLUDED.

Ryanair Inflight Promotion

PARTY SELLERS’ PRICES EXCLUDED. Ryanair Inflight Promotion your bag. Additional covers are also available in burgundy
PARTY SELLERS’ PRICES EXCLUDED. Ryanair Inflight Promotion your bag. Additional covers are also available in burgundy

your bag. Additional covers are also available in burgundy or tan leather, and red or purple nylon, so you can choose one to match your style. Share your music everywhere you go, with the SoundLink ® Mobile speaker.

• It’s small enough to go with you anywhere.

• Its rechargeable lithium-ion battery provides hours of music.

• The integrated cover protects the device and unfolds into a stand. Available in all Dixons Travel airport stores.

a stand. Available in all Dixons Travel airport stores. Bose ® SoundLink ® Wireless Mobile speaker

Bose ® SoundLink ® Wireless Mobile speaker

Start the party wherever you are. You’ve got the music on your phone; now flip open your Bose ® SoundLink ® Wireless Mobile speaker. It makes a quick Bluetooth connection, and then you’re set with bigger sound than you’d have thought possible from a speaker this small. It’s all thanks to unique technologies from Bose. The SoundLink ® Mobile speaker works with any Bluetooth-enabled device, and its battery keeps going for hours. When you’re on the go, the integrated cover protects the speaker in

The Sleeper

Wouldn’t it be great to sit back, right now, and drift off into a relaxing sleep? Arrive at your destination feeling refreshed, thanks to The Sleeper – a soft and cosy pillow which nestles around your neck for the ultimate in support during a flight. The fleecy cover feels soft to the touch for maximum comfort, giving you all the right conditions to relax. Why not treat your companion too, with this great offer from Dixons Travel: for a limited time, buy two pillows for just £18 in the UK; 21 in Rome and Dublin; 200DK in Copenhagen. This is one purchase you won’t lose sleep over.

This is one purchase you won’t lose sleep over. Dixons Travel Dixons Travel is one of
This is one purchase you won’t lose sleep over. Dixons Travel Dixons Travel is one of

Dixons Travel

Dixons Travel is one of Europe’s leading specialist airport electrical retailers. The Dixons Travel team are experts in technology and offer the best advice and support to help you choose the right product and get it up and running, ready for you to enjoy. As well as the fabulous products in-store, Dixons Travel also offers many services to customers – such as ‘Reserve & Fly’, which gives time-scarce customers the opportunity to reserve a product up to seven days in advance of flying, and then collect it before boarding their flight. Customers can also benefit from the ‘shop and collect’ service. This is perfect for passengers who like to travel light, or who want to buy larger products such as iMacs, laptops and speaker docks. The service gives you the opportunity to purchase your product in store on departure and collect it at a designated location land-side when you return from your trip. It couldn’t be easier. Visit Dixons Travel the next time you fly to enjoy their internet-beating prices* on all cameras, camcorders, laptops and iPods.

WWW.DIXONSTRAVEL.CO.UK

RYANAIR FLIES TO OVER 160 DESTINATIONS ACROSS EUROPE. WWW.RYANAIR.COM

laptops and iPods. WWW.DIXONSTRAVEL.CO.UK RYANAIR FLIES TO OVER 160 DESTINATIONS ACROSS EUROPE. WWW.RYANAIR.COM

Enjoy internet-beating prices* at Dixons Travel stores in Aberdeen, Birmingham, Edinburgh, Gatwick, Glasgow, Heathrow (Terminals 1, 3, 4 and 5), Luton, Manchester, Newcastle. Stansted, Copenhagen, Dublin, Milan and Rome.

Glasgow, Heathrow (Terminals 1, 3, 4 and 5), Luton, Manchester, Newcastle. Stansted, Copenhagen, Dublin, Milan and
The Shortlists The Shortlists LUCILLE HOWE HELPS YOU GET DRESSED IN THE MORNING LUCILLE HOWE
The Shortlists The Shortlists LUCILLE HOWE HELPS YOU GET DRESSED IN THE MORNING LUCILLE HOWE
The Shortlists
The Shortlists
LUCILLE HOWE HELPS YOU GET DRESSED IN THE MORNING
LUCILLE HOWE HELPS YOU GET DRESSED IN THE MORNING
MORNING LUCILLE HOWE HELPS YOU GET DRESSED IN THE MORNING e w New trend end NEW

ew

New

trend end

NEW KIDS ON THE SLOPES

It may still be chilly outside, but luckily in 2012 you’ll find plenty of new ski-wear and winter-wear to hot up your wardrobe. We’ve picked out three up-and-coming brands that are worth checking out if you’re planning on staying snug. Having enjoyed a cult following in its native Norway, OnePiece (www.onepiece.com) has since caught on around the world. Celebrities including Justin Bieber, Lady Gaga, Elton John and Jude Law have reportedly been zipping up in these suits to stay warm and toasty at home, and both Paris and Perez Hilton have even been seen out clubbing in theirs. It’s the brainchild of three 20-something guys, who woke up one Sunday morning feeling hung-over and fragile, and had the idea of sewing together a hooded top and tracksuit bottoms. Thus creating one of the cosiest, comfiest outfits you’ll ever wear (as pictured here on some sexy Norwegians). They’ve now sold to about 5% (and counting) of Norway’s population. It’s an adventurous look but has proved a winner. We love the loose-fitting purple Lusekofte (below). If only all hangovers were so lucrative! After graduating from university, Miranda

Harper had little clue what to do for a career, and

reer, and zerland made n a
reer, and
zerland
made
n
a

delayed the decision by heading to Switzerland

for a ski season. In her chalet, the Scot made

her first crochet beanie hat and was soon

swapping afternoons on the slopes for a

g

crochet hook and metres of yarn. Having

sold the hats to a bunch of ski instructors,

rs,

Miranda returned to Scotland and perfected

her crochet skills. Her website Zaini (www.

zaini.com) features hats named after

places like the Isle of Skye, Loch Lomond

and the Shetlands. Chamonix-based brand Perfect Moment (www.perfectmoment.com)

has just started selling to the UK market,

and was set up by legendary skier and filmmaker Thierry Donard. Because he knows his baby slopes from his black runs, he’s designed the collection – from hoodies to ski pants – from breathable, waterproof fabrics, for maximum warmth and mobility. Bold stripes and stars in purple, red and cornflower blue will look cool whether you’re in the snow park or the bar.

cted

w.

d
d
t,
t,
n
n
on We lo strip
on
We lo
strip
old s
old
s
WE €162 €23 €375
WE
€162
€23
€375

This Lusekofte

jumpsuit is

quirky and

cosy. Just add an

alpine cabin and log fire.

WWW.ONEPIECE.COM

We reckon

We love the bold

the Jura beanie is s

stripes on this

duck duck down

the perfect ect

Perfect Perfe Day

bright, slouchy

Star jacket.

WWW.PERFECT

MOMENT.COM

hat.

WWW.ZAINI.COM

ks a bit ON, UK
ks a bit
ON, UK
ks a bit ON, UK WILL IT TRAVEL? YES NO “Winter-wear “Ski-wear looks a bit like

WILL IT TRAVEL? YES

ks a bit ON, UK WILL IT TRAVEL? YES NO “Winter-wear “Ski-wear looks a bit like
ks a bit ON, UK WILL IT TRAVEL? YES NO “Winter-wear “Ski-wear looks a bit like

NO

“Winter-wear

“Ski-wear looks a bit

like this will

out of place if f you’re you’re

definitely get you noticed!”

just walking down down the street!”

ANNA WEMYSS,

SKI INSTRUCTOR,

EDINBURGH, UK

NAINA RISHIRAJ,

STUDENT RADIO

PRESENTER, LONDON, UK

RYANAIRMAGAZINE RYANAIRMAGAZINE
RYANAIRMAGAZINE
RYANAIRMAGAZINE

27 27

PHOTO: WWW.PIXELEYES.CO.UK

PHOTO: WWW.PIXELEYES.CO.UK The Shortlists LUCILLE HOWE SPLASHES OUT ON THE LATEST COSMETICS Must-have products MIRACLE

The Shortlists

PHOTO: WWW.PIXELEYES.CO.UK The Shortlists LUCILLE HOWE SPLASHES OUT ON THE LATEST COSMETICS Must-have products MIRACLE

LUCILLE HOWE SPLASHES OUT ON THE LATEST COSMETICS

Must-have products MIRACLE COSMETICS We start the year with a look at what’s new and
Must-have
products
MIRACLE COSMETICS
We start the year
with a look at
what’s new and
miraculous in the
world of cosmetics.
Lab coats and
specs at the ready!
Buy
onboard!
SAMPAR 3 DAY WEEKEND
PAGE 131

Readers test our picks of the month

I-POUT BY NEW CID COSMETICS

test our picks of the month I-POUT BY NEW CID COSMETICS €17.50 New CID Cosmetics has

€17.50

New CID Cosmetics has a team of hundreds of professional make- up artists working to develop its range. This lipstick features built-in LED lights and a mirror

to help you apply the shade perfectly in the darkest of corners. EXPERT TIP: Keep lips tip-top by always using a vitamin E enriched lipstick (like this one).

Reader test: “I love the lights. They’re a fun feature and help you to apply it with better precision.”

ALICE WAINWRIGHT, PA
ALICE WAINWRIGHT, PA

SAMPAR 3 DAY WEEKEND

precision.” ALICE WAINWRIGHT, PA SAMPAR 3 DAY WEEKEND €37, 30ml This French skincare brand is the

€37, 30ml

This French skincare brand is the brainchild of Patrick Sounigo who, after six years of medical studies in Paris, decided to move into cosmetics. One

of Sampar’s most popular products, this gel stimulates the skin’s natural melanin for a hint of tan without sun or self-tanners, so no skin damage or streaks. EXPERT TIP: Dust on some bronzer afterwards.

Reader test: “Subtle but effective. I looked healthier and more tanned.”

CARYS JONES, STATISTICIAN
CARYS JONES, STATISTICIAN

SMASHBOX PHOTO FINISH LUMINIZING

CARYS JONES, STATISTICIAN SMASHBOX PHOTO FINISH LUMINIZING FOUNDATION PRIMER €28, 30ml Adding a glow to your

FOUNDATION PRIMER

€28, 30ml

Adding a glow to your skin while also creating a canvas for your foundation, this primer adds just the right amount of

luminosity. The velvety, oil-free formula helps fill in fine lines and pores, and also contains age-fighting antioxidants and vitamins. EXPERT TIP: Use on your décolleté too, to create a subtle highlighting effect.

Reader test: “My foundation stayed on for longer and looked better.”

ISOBEL BAYLIS, DEVELOPMENT MANAGER

“My foundation stayed on for longer and looked better.” ISOBEL BAYLIS, DEVELOPMENT MANAGER 2 8 WWW.RYANAIRMAG.COM

PHOTO: GETTY

The ShortlistsPHOTO: GETTY MIKE PEAKE KNOWS LOTS OF NEW PLACES TO GO. WELL, THEY SOUND NEW… Places

MIKE PEAKE KNOWS LOTS OF NEW PLACES TO GO. WELL, THEY SOUND NEW…

KNOWS LOTS OF NEW PLACES TO GO. WELL, THEY SOUND NEW… Places to visit with “new”
Places to visit with “new” in their name NEW BRIGHTON ENGLAND Heading to Liverpool? Don’t
Places to visit with
“new” in their name
NEW BRIGHTON
ENGLAND
Heading to Liverpool? Don’t
confuse it with Blackpool, where
daytripping Brits go for sea, sand and
rollercoasters. But close to Liverpool is
New Brighton, where you can also enjoy
a lovely beachy day out. Don’t confuse
New Brigthon with Brighton, which is
in the south. Confused yet? We are.
FLY TO LIVERPOOL FROM 25 DESTINATIONS
INCLUDING DUBLIN AND POZNAN .
´
WWW.RYANAIR.COM
NEUMÜNSTER
GERMANY
A short trip out of Hamburg and en route to
Kiel and the unmissable beaches of northern
Germany, Neumünster is the home of nu-
metal band Panik and also a zoo that houses
everything from “mighty polar bear to tiny
mouse”. The town also hosts a popular stallion
market around October. Good to know.
FLY TO HAMBURG (LÜBECK) FROM MILAN (BERGAMO)
AND STOCKHOLM (SKAVSTA). WWW.RYANAIR.COM
NEUVÉGLISE
FRANCE
Well worth a visit, Neuvéglise is in the hilly
Auvergne region, surrounded by canyons,
streams and nature at its best. According to
the town’s rather funky-looking website, just
1,100 people live there.
FLY TO RODEZ FROM LONDON (STANSTED).
WWW.RYANAIR.COM

ˇ

NOVÝ JI CÍN

CZECH REPUBLIC

Like hats, do you? You’re in for a treat. This town (yes, “nov´y” means new in Czech) at the edge of the Carpathian Mountains is renowned for its millinery, and has a really nice town square too. The perfect place to pick up a new hat in the new year, then.

FLY TO BRNO FROM LONDON (STANSTED) . BRNO FROM LONDON (STANSTED).

WWW.RYANAIR.COM

NIEUWEGEIN

THE NETHERLANDS

Not far from Eindhoven and close to Utrecht, which borders it on the north, Nieuwegein is yet another “new” destination. It really is quite new actually, as rather than springing up higgledy- piggledy from an ancient settlement, it’s a planned city that was founded in 1971.

settlement, it’s a planned city that was founded in 1971. FLY TO EINDHOVEN FROM 22 DESTINATIONS,

FLY TO EINDHOVEN FROM 22 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING

DUBLIN AND STOCKHOLM (SKAVSTA). WWW.RYANAIR.COM

NUEVO BAZTÁN

SPAIN

Only 35km east of Madrid, Nuevo Baztán is a sort of Spanish new town – albeit one that was founded 300 years ago, in a bid to promote industrial development. Pay a visit to the Goyeneche Palace there, a rather flamboyant building well worth checking out.

there, a rather flamboyant building well worth checking out. FLY TO MADRID FROM 38 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING

FLY TO MADRID FROM 38 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING

MARSEILLE PROVENCE MP2. WWW.RYANAIR.COM

WORDS: SOPHY GRIMSHAW

The ShortlistsWORDS: SOPHY GRIMSHAW BE THE FIRST OF YOUR FRIENDS TO CHECK-IN TO THESE NEW BOLT-HOLES LONE

BE THE FIRST OF YOUR FRIENDS TO CHECK-IN TO THESE NEW BOLT-HOLES

LONE Hot new ROVINJ, CROATIA hotels Contemporary architecture, art installations and 1970s-inspired interiors come
LONE
Hot new
ROVINJ, CROATIA
hotels
Contemporary architecture,
art installations and 1970s-inspired
interiors come together at this top new
address in Croatia (near to Pula and
to Trieste, Italy), which is a member of
Design Hotels. Many rooms boast a hot
tub on the balcony, and there’s a vast spa.
´
DOUBLES FROM 1,125HRK (€150). 31 LUJE ADAMOVI CA,
TEL: +385 (0)52 632000, WWW.LONEHOTEL.COM
FLY TO TRIESTE FROM FIVE DESTINATIONS,
INCLUDING BRUSSELS (CHARLEROI).
WWW.RYANAIR.COM

NOBIS HOTEL

STOCKHOLM, SWEDEN

This one-year-old hotel occupies a former bank and is elegantly fitted out in typically muted Scandi style. It has 201 rooms, and more than 800m 2 of luxurious shared space, including a soaring 28m-high atrium lounge. Over drinks in The Gold Bar, you’ll rub shoulders with hip Stockholmers as well as international guests.

DOUBLES FROM 1,810SEK (€196). 2–4

NORRMALMSTORG, TEL: +46 (0)8 614

1000, WWW.NOBISHOTEL.COM

FLY TO STOCKHOLM (SKAVSTA AND STOCKHOLM (SKAVSTA AND

VÄSTERÅS) FROM 28DESTINATIONS,

INCLUDING RIGA. WWW.RYANAIR.COM

25HOURS HOTEL HAFENCITY

HAMBURG, GERMANY

Styling itself as a “budget deluxe” hotel, this cool crashpad on the city’s waterfront has nautical decor inspired by stories from old sailors. If you’re in a band, or fancy forming one while here, hang out in the Gibson Music Room, a practice room stocked with guitars. Need wheels? It’s free to rent a bike or even a Mini.

DOUBLES FROM €105. 5 ÜBERSEEALLEE,

TEL: +49 (0)40 257 7770, WWW.25HOURS-

HOTELS.COM/HAFENCITY

TEL: +49 (0)40 257 7770, WWW.25HOURS- HOTELS.COM/HAFENCITY FLY TO HAMBURG (LÜBECK) FROM THREE DESTINATIONS,

FLY TO HAMBURG (LÜBECK) FROM

THREE DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING MILAN

(BERGAMO). WWW.RYANAIR.COM

THE ZETTER TOWNHOUSE

LONDON, UK

Clerkenwell has long been known for its gastropubs and hip brunch spots, and now the neighbourhood is also home to this quirky and colourful 13-room Georgian townhouse hotel. The exclusive bolt-hole has opened across from swanky sibling the Zetter, and boasts a plush cocktail lounge with a crackling log fire.

DOUBLES FROM £185 (€215). 49–50 ST

JOHN’S SQUARE, TEL: +44 (0)20 7324 4567,

WWW.THEZETTERTOWNHOUSE.COM

SQUARE, TEL: +44 (0)20 7324 4567, WWW.THEZETTERTOWNHOUSE.COM FLY TO LONDON (GATWICK, LUTON AND STANSTED) FROM OVER

FLY TO LONDON (GATWICK, LUTON AND

STANSTED) FROM OVER 100 DESTINATIONS,

INCLUDING DUBLIN. WWW.RYANAIR.COM

LE BLANC HOTEL AND SPA

TRENTO, ITALY

Blanc by name and blanc by nature, this smart new hotel with all-white interiors looks out over the snow-covered peaks of the Valle dell’Adige and the Monte Bondone ski and snow-sports area. This place is so white, it’s literally dazzling. Make use of the inhouse restaurant and spa when you’re not on out the slopes.

DOUBLES FROM €142 (HALF-BOARD).

64 LOC. VASON, TEL: +39 0461 947457,

WWW.LEBLANCHOTELSPA.COM

64 LOC. VASON, TEL: +39 0461 947457, WWW.LEBLANCHOTELSPA.COM FLY TO VERONA FROM 8 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING ALGHERO

FLY TO VERONA FROM 8 DESTINATIONS,

INCLUDING ALGHERO AND PALERMO.

WWW.RYANAIR.COM

The Shortlists SEJAL SUKHADWALA PICKS SOME NEW TOP TABLES FOR DINING OUT KOKCO MADRID, SPAIN

The Shortlists

The Shortlists SEJAL SUKHADWALA PICKS SOME NEW TOP TABLES FOR DINING OUT KOKCO MADRID, SPAIN New

SEJAL SUKHADWALA PICKS SOME NEW TOP TABLES FOR DINING OUT

KOKCO MADRID, SPAIN New restaurants for the new year Mediterranean fusion dishes with Chinese and
KOKCO
MADRID, SPAIN
New restaurants
for the new year
Mediterranean fusion dishes
with Chinese and Japanese
influences can be found at this chic
restaurant, which features striking
beaded columns and theatrical purple
lighting. Try sushi, oriental hotpot, salmon
tartare and jellyfish salad, all washed down
with a great selection of Spanish wines.
TWO-COURSE MEAL WITH A GLASS OF WINE, ABOUT €28.
33 CALLE DE MATEO INURRIA, TEL: +34 91 345 0945,
WWW.KOKCO.ES
FLY TO MADRID FROM 37 DESTINATIONS,
INCLUDING CAGLIARI, KRAKOW AND
LONDON (STANSTED).
WWW.RYANAIR.COM

CHAKRA

LONDON, ENGLAND

Acclaimed chef Andy Varma’s glamorous restaurant in Notting Hill pays homage to the legendary chefs of Lucknow, Delhi and Punjab. The pan-Indian dishes include tender Lucknow kebabs with the correct foie gras-like texture, and utterly scrumptious Italian burrata cheese with Bengali aubergines, cherry tomatoes and Korean chilli flakes.

TWO-COURSE MEAL WITH A GLASS OF WINE,

ABOUT £35 (€41). 157 NOTTING HILL GATE, TEL:

+44 (0)20 7229 2115, WWW.CHAKRALONDON.COM

FLY TO LONDON (GATWICK, LUTON AND LONDON (GATWICK, LUTON AND

STANSTED) FROM OVER 100 DESTINATIONS,

INCLUDING DUBLIN. WWW.RYANAIR.COM

L’OPÉRA RETAURANT

PARIS, FRANCE

Located in the world-famous Palais Garnier opera house, this restaurant’s bold contemporary design features bright red furniture set against a backdrop of pristine white. Equally dramatic on the plate are foie gras with strawberries, flank steak with cauliflower, and the Opéra chocolate and coffee patisserie with toasted almond nibs and gold leaf.

TWO-COURSE MEAL WITH A GLASS OF WINE,

ABOUT €55. 8 RUE HALÉVY, TEL: +33 (0)1 4268

8680, WWW.OPERA-RESTAURANT.FR

HALÉVY, TEL: +33 (0)1 4268 8680, WWW.OPERA-RESTAURANT.FR FLY TO PARIS (BEAUVAIS AND VATRY) FROM 34 DESTINATIONS,

FLY TO PARIS (BEAUVAIS AND VATRY)

FROM 34 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING MILAN

(BERGAMO). WWW.RYANAIR.COM

MARTHA’S

GLASGOW, SCOTLAND

This healthy fast food diner has been an instant hit thanks to its great-value dishes with big flavours. Sandwiches, wraps, pastries, salads, soups, breakfast pots, baked goodies and eclectic hot dishes like Moroccan meatballs and chipotle chicken are created with an in- house nutritionist. The seasonal menu uses award-winning local produce, and caters for a wide range of diets too.

TWO DISHES WITH A GLASS OF JUICE, ABOUT £10

(€12). 142A ST VINCENT STREET, TEL: +44 (0)141

248 9771, WWW.MYMARTHAS.CO.UK

STREET, TEL: +44 (0)141 248 9771, WWW.MYMARTHAS.CO.UK FLY TO GLASGOW (PRESTWICK) FROM 10 DESTINATIONS,

FLY TO GLASGOW (PRESTWICK) FROM 10

DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING GRAN CANARIA AND

PARIS (BEAUVAIS). WWW.RYANAIR.COM

The ShortlistsSEJAL SUKHADWALA TELLS US WHERE TO GET THE DRINKS IN SHAKER & COMPANY LONDON, ENGLAND

SEJAL SUKHADWALA TELLS US WHERE TO GET THE DRINKS IN

SEJAL SUKHADWALA TELLS US WHERE TO GET THE DRINKS IN SHAKER & COMPANY LONDON, ENGLAND New
SHAKER & COMPANY LONDON, ENGLAND New bars to visit in 2012 A sure hit for
SHAKER &
COMPANY
LONDON, ENGLAND
New bars to
visit in 2012
A sure hit for 2012, this New
Orleans-style cocktail saloon near
Euston station has live music, comedy
and a range of 19th and 20th century-
inspired cocktails. We love the crystal-
decanter lanterns and retro school desks.
119 HAMPSTEAD ROAD, TEL: +44 (0)20 7060 6877,
WWW.SHAKERANDCOMPANY.COM
FLY TO LONDON (GATWICK, LUTON AND STANSTED)
FROM OVER 100 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING FARO,
MADRID AND ROME (CIAMPINO).
WWW.RYANAIR.COM

VERJUS BAR À VIN

PARIS, FRANCE

Hospitable American couple Laura Adrian and Braden Perkins of popular supper club Hidden Kitchen recently opened this stylish wine bar, whose selection is chosen in collaboration with Juan Sanchez of La Dernier Goutte wine boutique. There's also whiskies, beers and inventive bar snacks.

47 RUE MONTPENSIER, TEL: +33 (0)1 4297 5440, WWW.VERJUSPARIS.COM

FLY TO PARIS (BEAUVAIS AND PARIS (BEAUVAIS AND

VATRY) FROM 34 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING FEZ. WWW.RYANAIR.COM

THE LIAR’S CLUB

MANCHESTER, ENGLAND

Created by rum industry experts, this dimly lit tiki bar and rum shop has kitsch Polynesian décor and serves over 100 different rums. Choose from cocktails and shots, or a half/full bottle with free mixers. They can even keep any spare booze safe until your next visit.

19A BACK BRIDGE STREET, TEL: +44 (0)161 834 5111, WWW.THELIARSCLUB.CO.UK FLY TO MANCHESTER FROM 10
19A BACK BRIDGE STREET,
TEL: +44 (0)161 834 5111,
WWW.THELIARSCLUB.CO.UK
FLY TO MANCHESTER FROM 10

DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING BREMEN AND FARO. WWW.RYANAIR.COM

THE BRINK

LIVERPOOL, ENGLAND

It’s a bar Jim, but not as we know it – the difference being there’s no alcohol. This bright and breezy new venue is the brainchild of charity Action on Addiction, and serves imaginative, good- value drinks ranging from traditional English pop to botanically brewed cordials.

15–21 PARR STREET, TEL:+44 (0)151 703 0582, WWW. THEBRINKLIVERPOOL.COM FLY TO LIVERPOOL FROM 25
15–21 PARR STREET, TEL:+44
(0)151 703 0582, WWW.
THEBRINKLIVERPOOL.COM
FLY TO LIVERPOOL FROM 25

DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING DERRY AND WROCŁAW. WWW.RYANAIR.COM

INARA BAR AND LOUNGE

MARRAKESH, MOROCCO

This sumptuous lobby bar in the Four Seasons hotel attracts the Moroccan gliterati with its menu of Champagnes and varied cocktails including several interpretations of the mojito. There’s also outdoor seating and magical 16ha gardens to wander around.

1 BOULEVARD DE LA MENARA, TEL: +212 524 359 200, WWW.FOURSEASONS.COM FLY TO MARRAKESH FROM
1 BOULEVARD DE LA MENARA,
TEL: +212 524 359 200,
WWW.FOURSEASONS.COM
FLY TO MARRAKESH FROM 14

DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING PORTO AND VALENCIA. WWW.RYANAIR.COM

EUROTEL ALTURA Hotel Eurotel Altura Av. 24 de Junho | 8950-411 Altura Algarve - PORTUGAL
EUROTEL ALTURA
Hotel Eurotel Altura
Av. 24 de Junho | 8950-411 Altura
Algarve - PORTUGAL
Telf: +351 281 956 450 | Fax: +351 281 956 371
CERTIFICATE OF EXCELLENCE
FOR THE YEAR OF 2011
reservas: comercial@eurotel-altura.com
www.eurotel-altura.com
956 371 CERTIFICATE OF EXCELLENCE FOR THE YEAR OF 2011 reservas: comercial@eurotel-altura.com www.eurotel-altura.com

CHEAP FLIGHTS TO EUROPE

CHEAP FLIGHTS TO EUROPE DUBLIN OSLO (RYGGE) STOCKHOLM (SKAVSTA) TALLINN NANTES LA ROCHELLE BRUSSELS (CHARLEROI) PARIS
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TALLINN

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(BEAUVAIS)

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supported by
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WORDS: ROALD RYNNING / IFA ; PHOTO: CAMERA PRESS

WORDS: ROALD RYNNING / IFA ; PHOTO: CAMERA PRESS Comment THE AUSTRALIAN ACTRESS ON HIKING, TUSCANY

Comment

THE AUSTRALIAN ACTRESS ON HIKING, TUSCANY AND TRYING NOT TO GET RECOGNISED

Nicole Kidman
Nicole Kidman

“I WENT TO AMSTERDAM WHEN I WAS 17 and then backpacked through Europe. It’s the best education you can have. You learn so much about people and the different cultures. I’ve always adored travelling. “Nobody believes this, but I’m low- maintenance in everyday life. I rent places in different cities around the world, and then I move all my stuff. I’m very good at it. I’ve greatly reduced what I own. It’s quite a good feeling to be able to put everything in a suitcase and move it. “When you work on movies, you spend a lot of time on various locations. I made The Others in Spain, Dogville in Sweden, Cold Mountain in Romania, Moulin Rouge! and Australia in Australia, and many of my pictures in England. For Eyes Wide Shut I spent a whole year in

London. And I’ve loved living in all the places.

I mess up my hair a bit, walk quickly and I

become invisible. If I’m spotted in the street, I find that most people respect my space. “Celebrity is unreal. I can understand why

a lot of people either run away, don’t cope, or go under. To get away from everything, I like

“I love being ablecope, or go under. To get away from everything, I like to go out at midnight,

to go out at midnight, drink margaritas, and dance a little salsa”

scuba diving, horse riding and mountain hiking – something I like to do with my family. We can walk for sometimes six, seven hours a day. “I’d love to live in Tuscany in a farmhouse, with lots of kids and grandkids running around and a big kitchen. I could drive into Florence for a little opera. I have contradicting desires, because I also love a big city like New York. I have an apartment there and I did a play there. It’s a fantastic place, with great theatre. I love being able to go out at midnight there, drink margaritas, and dance a little salsa. I love Morocco too. It’s incredibly exotic. “When the good roles disappear, I’ll happily stay in Tennessee [where she lives with husband Keith Urban] and I’ll enjoy a more quiet life. I’d love to write and cook and learn Italian, and explore other creative paths. Contrary to popular belief, I’m no workaholic. That said, travelling is who I am. And you can’t stop doing your favourite thing in life.”

THIS YEAR NICOLE KIDMAN STARS IN MOVIES THE DANISH GIRL, STOKER AND THE PAPERBOY.

FLY TO CONSTANTA , LONDON (GATWICK, LUTON CONSTANTA, LONDON (GATWICK, LUTON

AND STANSTED), MARRAKESH, PISA (FLORENCE) AND STOCKHOLM (SKAVSTA AND VÄSTERÅS) FROM ACROSS THE RYANAIR NETWORK. WWW.RYANAIR.COM

ILLUSTRATION: SPENCER WILSON / SYNERGY ART

ILLUSTRATION: SPENCER WILSON / SYNERGY ART Comment COMEDIAN AND TRAVEL CHANNEL PRESENTER DANNY ROBINS ON BATHROOM

Comment

ILLUSTRATION: SPENCER WILSON / SYNERGY ART Comment COMEDIAN AND TRAVEL CHANNEL PRESENTER DANNY ROBINS ON BATHROOM

COMEDIAN AND TRAVEL CHANNEL PRESENTER DANNY ROBINS ON BATHROOM BASICS

AND TRAVEL CHANNEL PRESENTER DANNY ROBINS ON BATHROOM BASICS HAMLET ASKED HIMSELF: “To be or not

HAMLET ASKED HIMSELF: “To be or not to be.” I am now facing an equally great philosophical question: “To bidet or not to bidet?” As I stand in my hotel bathroom in Paris, staring down into the porcelain bowl, I realise it is a very English dilemma. A bidet may be a fixture of many Continental bathrooms, but to Brits like me it is one of those strange foreign things that we do not truly understand – like having cheese for

sure a family magazine like this is the right place to fill you in. But I did find a very useful web page called “How to Use a Bidet”. It helpfully talks you through each step of the process, with particular attention paid to “avoiding burning sensitive areas” (basically, go easy on the hot tap), and why it may not be a good idea to turn on the water jet too powerfully. I don’t think we need to go into that. Do be careful while reading it though: make sure you hold your laptop with

have little inspection shelves in their toilet bowls. Can any German readers explain the thinking behind that intriguing little ledge? Are you worried you might swallow something important you will need to find again later? Our different approaches to our bodily functions are another example of the glorious diversity that makes Europe one of the most argumentative continents (or should that be incontinents?). If we can’t decide if a bidet is

I hope I’m not putting you off your food with all this lavatorial talk your food with all this lavatorial talk

breakfast, Shakira, and winning at football. Don’t get me wrong, although I’ve never used one I’m totally aware of what a bidet is for – though I’ve definitely travelled with people who weren’t. The give-away signs are when they say things like “the sink’s very low in my bathroom” or “I’ve got a really useful bowl for hand-washing clothes”. If you are unaware of the point of this particular item of bathroom furniture, I’m not

your non-cleaning hand. I hope I’m not putting you off your sandwich/nuts/other food item with all this lavatorial talk. I know the British have been accused of being toilet-obsessed, but I like to think that we operate a middle ground between the Americans who don’t like to discuss the subject so much they use the euphemism “restroom” and the Germans, who are so fascinated by it they actually

a necessary daily function or a strange waste of bathroom space, how are we ever going to decide on a common economic policy? So, in the interests of unity, cooperation and pan-European understanding, I will now for the first time in my life use a bidet. You may wish to avert your eyes. Ooh, that jet’s a bit powerful.

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Ooh, that jet’s a bit powerful. TWITTER.COM/DANNY_ROBINS FLY TO PARIS (BEAUVAIS AND VATRY) FROM 34 DESTINATIONS,

FLY TO PARIS (BEAUVAIS AND VATRY) FROM 34

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ON THE GROUND Matthew Lee explores one of Morocco’s most vibrant and and exquisite riads
ON
THE
GROUND
Matthew Lee explores one of Morocco’s most vibrant and
and exquisite riads are just the start of your adventure.
Photography by Tim White
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GET THE VIBE

ON THE STREET

AT THE HOTEL

ON THE TABLE

TO THE BAR

HIT THE SHOPS

IN THE BAG

WHERE IT’S AT

MARRAKESH ON THE GROUND

MARRAKESH ON THE GROUND

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FROM 14 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING BRUSSELS (CHARLEROI) | DÜSSELDORF (WEEZE) | PORTO | VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM FOR

DÜSSELDORF (WEEZE) |

INCLUDING BRUSSELS (CHARLEROI) | DÜSSELDORF (WEEZE) | PORTO | VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM FOR MORE INFORMATION GET THE

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| PORTO | VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM FOR MORE INFORMATION GET THE VIBE ALL ROADS LEAD TO THE

GET THE VIBE

ALL ROADS LEAD TO THE SQUARE

YOU CAN CALL IT JAMAA EL FNA. You can call it La Place. And, as the English language seeps surreptitiously into Marrakesh’s charming French-Arabic mishmash, you can now get away with calling it The Square. No matter what you choose to call it, you’re not going to miss it – no other city is so utterly dominated by its main square. All roads seem to lead here, whether you’re coming from the implausibly tangled network of small lanes and narrow alleyways of the old city (known as the Medina), or the spacious European-style streets of the new town. And if you’re not heading towards Jamaa el Fna, nobody told the locals – you’ll see a succession of people pointing in the direction of the square regardless of whether or not you asked for help. The square is enormous, and is boosted by several smaller squares that appear to have attached themselves to its edges like raindrops to a puddle. A parade of henna tattooists, orange juicers, boot polishers and fez sellers sprawls in every direction. For first-time visitors it can feel like you’ve accidentally wandered onto the set of Arabian Nights. Huge crowds of locals and tourists form circles around storytellers, whose dramatic renditions of biblical tales and Arabic folklore have remained resolutely popular. Jamaa el Fna may be a tourist must-see, but it’s a locals’ hangout too. When you visit the nightly food market, you’ll likely find yourself wedged on a bench between Moroccans of all ages and backgrounds. The square is the city’s meeting place. While a good chunk of your time will be spent in and around Jamaa el Fna, most of the restaurants, bars, shops and hotels in this guide are to be found elsewhere in the city. For Marrakesh’s best food and nightlife, you’ll want to step out in the new town. It’s unfair to expect any 20th-century construction to possess a fraction of the charm of the Medina, but the French colonial architecture and tree- lined boulevards are attractive in a different way. And on the other side of the square, the old city is an enormous maze enticing you to get lost. Ditch the map and go for a stroll. That’s how the adventure begins.

hip to be square Jamaa el Fna draws tourists and locals together for food and
hip to be square
Jamaa el Fna draws
tourists and locals together
for food and theatre
MARRAKESH ON THE GROUND FLY TO MARRAKESH FROM 14 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING ON THE street MINT

MARRAKESH ON THE GROUND

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GROUND FLY TO MARRAKESH FROM 14 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING ON THE street MINT TEA AND PHOTOGRAPHY MARRAKESH
GROUND FLY TO MARRAKESH FROM 14 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING ON THE street MINT TEA AND PHOTOGRAPHY MARRAKESH

ON THE street

MINT TEA AND PHOTOGRAPHY

INCLUDING ON THE street MINT TEA AND PHOTOGRAPHY MARRAKESH ISN’T LIKE PARIS, Rome or London. It’s

MARRAKESH ISN’T LIKE PARIS, Rome or London. It’s not a place where you go sightseeing and cross places off a checklist. This is a place where the entire city is the main attraction – the architecture, the markets, the people, the mosques, the food. A small number of historical sites and cultural centres do exist, but you can get them out of the way on the first day and then enjoy Marrakesh the way it’s meant to be enjoyed – getting lost in the passages and souks (markets) of the Medina, dodging speeding motorcycles and ambling donkeys, haggling over the price of colourful carpets, and stopping for countless cups of sugary mint tea. Start at the strikingly handsome Musée de Marrakech 1 (www.museedemarrakech. ma), which used to be known as Dar M’Nebhi Palace. The traditional teapots, embroidery and weaponry on display are what you’d expect to see here, but the tilework throughout the building is sensational and much of the space is dedicated to contemporary art. Turn right outside the museum and walk

to contemporary art. Turn right outside the museum and walk EINDHOVEN | FRANKFURT (HAHN) | GIRONA

EINDHOVEN |

art. Turn right outside the museum and walk EINDHOVEN | FRANKFURT (HAHN) | GIRONA (BARCELONA) |

FRANKFURT (HAHN) |

outside the museum and walk EINDHOVEN | FRANKFURT (HAHN) | GIRONA (BARCELONA) | LONDON (LUTON AND

GIRONA (BARCELONA) |

walk EINDHOVEN | FRANKFURT (HAHN) | GIRONA (BARCELONA) | LONDON (LUTON AND STANSTED) | MILAN (BERGAMO)

LONDON (LUTON AND STANSTED) |

| GIRONA (BARCELONA) | LONDON (LUTON AND STANSTED) | MILAN (BERGAMO) | old school Plant yourself

MILAN (BERGAMO) |

old school

Plant yourself in the JardinLONDON (LUTON AND STANSTED) | MILAN (BERGAMO) | old school Majorelle for a few hours Admire

Majorelle for a few hours

Admire the architecture atPlant yourself in the Jardin Majorelle for a few hours Medersa Ben Youssef down the street

Medersa Ben Youssef

a few hours Admire the architecture at Medersa Ben Youssef down the street to Medersa Ben

down the street to Medersa Ben Youssef

the 16th century where 130 tiny student dorms surround a tranquil

courtyard with a shallow pool at its centre. Mosques are off-limits to non-Muslims in Marrakesh, so for many tourists this is a rare chance to learn about Islamic architecture in Morocco. A 60MAD (€5) combo ticket covers both the museum and the school. Two years ago, Frenchman Patrick Manac’h and local enthusiast

Hamid Mergani opened the Maison de la Photographie

maisondelaphotographie.ma) in a central location in the Medina. Manac’h has been collecting photographs of Morocco for over 15 years and by the time he’d amassed several thousand of them it became obvious that they needed to go on public display. The gallery is housed in a beautiful old riad (Moroccan house with a courtyard), boasting one of the highest roof terraces in the Medina and postcard-perfect views. These are exciting times for art aficionados in Marrakesh. The fourth Marrakech Biennale takes place 29 February–4 March at venues across the city, and you can see an exhibition of art inspired by the geography of the Atlas mountains (running until end of May), alongside expertly

curated film, literature and music strands. You should also check out the

Voice Gallery

visual artist Mihael Milunovic´ runs until 25 February. Finally, don’t miss the colourful Jardin Majorelle

jardinmajorelle.com), an artistically landscaped garden in the north of the city renowned for its birds, cacti and collection of rare plants.

renowned for its birds, cacti and collection of rare plants. 2 , a religious school from

2 , a religious school from

collection of rare plants. 2 , a religious school from 3 (www. 4 (www.voicegallery.net) whose exhibition

3 (www.

4
4

(www.voicegallery.net) whose exhibition by Serbian

5
5

(www.

4 (www.voicegallery.net) whose exhibition by Serbian 5 (www. Caravane of love Nick Wilde had a successful

Caravane

of love

Nick Wilde had a successful career as a musician and producer in London until his recording studio was destroyed first by a

flood and then by a fire.

It seemed like a higher

power was urging him to leave. “My wife and I thought about working remotely, and we chose Marrakesh because we’d been on our honeymoon and

loved it,” he says. They rented a riad in the Medina and Nick got to work building a studio. “Word must have got around that I was

a producer because

suddenly local musicians started turning up at our front door,” he says. Before long he was jamming with people from all over Morocco, incorporating their Berber sounds with his dance and techno influences. The result was a new record label, Marrakchi Records, and the first release is the album Caravane, which is available to purchase on iTunes.

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“Marrakesh is like Shakespeare. It’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream. It’s a city of fantasy” PATRICK
“Marrakesh is like Shakespeare.
It’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream.
It’s a city of fantasy”
PATRICK MANAC’H (RIGHT)
CO-OWNER WITH HAMID MERGANI OF MAISON DE LA PHOTOGRAPHIE
MARRAKESH ON THE GROUND FLY TO MARRAKESH FROM 14 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING AT THE HOTEL THE

MARRAKESH ON THE GROUND

FLY TO MARRAKESH FROM 14 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING

GROUND FLY TO MARRAKESH FROM 14 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING AT THE HOTEL THE RIAD DEAL WITH ITS

AT THE HOTEL

THE RIAD DEAL

FROM 14 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING AT THE HOTEL THE RIAD DEAL WITH ITS EXTRAORDINARY ATTENTION to detail,

WITH ITS EXTRAORDINARY ATTENTION to detail, Maison MK 6 (www.maisonmk. com) is quite a feast for the eyes, which isn’t surprising when you learn that its owners, Paul and Aoibheann Hopkins, are both professional photographers. In striking contrast to the dusty lanes of the Medina it’s located in, this place oozes chicness; a stay here can feel like you’re

living in a fashion shoot. With just five rooms and

a suite, a fantastic bar on the roof terrace, and manager Mary on hand to provide a personal

touch, it’s a great place for honeymooners. It’s not the right place if you have a young family though, as there is an over-12s only policy. Doubles from 3,077MAD (€275). When Jean-François and Delphine Claeys

opened Riad Tchaikana

com) over 10 years ago, there were only 35 riads

in the whole of Marrakesh. There are now more

than 700. It speaks volumes that Tchaikana continues to fill its six gorgeous rooms and suites with ease. The Claeys’ story is a familiar one among European expatriates who’ve started businesses in the city. They had successful

who’ve started businesses in the city. They had successful 7 (www.tchaikana. DÜSSELDORF (WEEZE) | GIRONA
who’ve started businesses in the city. They had successful 7 (www.tchaikana. DÜSSELDORF (WEEZE) | GIRONA

7 (www.tchaikana.

in the city. They had successful 7 (www.tchaikana. DÜSSELDORF (WEEZE) | GIRONA (BARCELONA) | MILAN (BERGAMO)

DÜSSELDORF (WEEZE) |

had successful 7 (www.tchaikana. DÜSSELDORF (WEEZE) | GIRONA (BARCELONA) | MILAN (BERGAMO) | PARIS (BEAUVAIS) |

GIRONA (BARCELONA) |

(www.tchaikana. DÜSSELDORF (WEEZE) | GIRONA (BARCELONA) | MILAN (BERGAMO) | PARIS (BEAUVAIS) | PISA (FLORENCE) |

MILAN (BERGAMO) |

(WEEZE) | GIRONA (BARCELONA) | MILAN (BERGAMO) | PARIS (BEAUVAIS) | PISA (FLORENCE) | home comforts

PARIS (BEAUVAIS) |

GIRONA (BARCELONA) | MILAN (BERGAMO) | PARIS (BEAUVAIS) | PISA (FLORENCE) | home comforts Enjoy the

PISA (FLORENCE) |

home comforts

Enjoy the chic cosiness| PARIS (BEAUVAIS) | PISA (FLORENCE) | home comforts of Maison MK careers in their native

of Maison MK

| home comforts Enjoy the chic cosiness of Maison MK careers in their native Belgium but

careers in their native Belgium but felt that they didn’t have enough time to live their lives. “We wanted to escape the system we were living in and experience

a different pace,” says Jean-François, a genial host who welcomes every guest like an old friend, offering tips on the best local shops and restaurants. Tchaikana was a labour of love for the couple; Delphine, with

a background in design, took charge of the interiors and created a space

that’s above all calm and peaceful. A retreat from the world outside. “You only have to walk out our front door to experience the hectic life of the Medina,” says Jean-François. Double rooms start from 1,007MAD (€90). If you’re not a “less is more” person, spend the night at Bab Hotel (www.babhotelmarrakech.com). It’s a Parisian breed of luxuriousness,

a no-holds-barred bourgeois-bohemian fantasy. We love the espresso

machines in every room, and the new-town location is perfect for

investigating the wave of hip bars that have opened recently in the area. Doubles from 1,108MAD (€99). The most famous and most expensive hotel in the city is La

8
8
most famous and most expensive hotel in the city is La 8 Mamounia 9 (www.mamounia.com). It

Mamounia 9

(www.mamounia.com). It reopened a couple of years

ago after a €100 million refurbishment, and it has lost little of the charm that led Winston Churchill to declare it “the most lovely spot in the whole world”. Apart from being a hotel, it’s also one of the finest examples of

Moorish-meets-European architecture you could imagine, and home to the most beautiful garden in the city. Double rooms here start at 6,000MAD (€536).

in the city. Double rooms here start at 6,000MAD (€536). Sleep under the stars Camping in

Sleep under

the stars

Camping in Morocco is an almost year-round option and several desert camps compete for your custom. To many, this is the ultimate Moroccan experience and so it’s worth noting that the camps are by no means cheaper than a hotel. The best camp in Morocco is a full day’s journey from Marrakesh, but it’s well worth the effort. Erg Chigaga 10 (www. desertcampmorocco. com) is in the middle of nowhere, which is exactly where an escape from the modern world should be. Here, the stars seem to shine more brightly and the dunes undulate into the distance. The tents themselves rival suites at five-star hotels, with king-size beds and handmade Moroccan furnishings. A night here costs 2,514MAD (€225) per person (minimum stay two nights). But this is the desert, so the shower, incongruously, consists of a bucket of hot water.

But this is the desert, so the shower, incongruously, consists of a bucket of hot water.
PORTO | ROME (CIAMPINO) | SEVILLE | VALENCIA | VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM FOR MORE INFORMATION “I

PORTO | ROME (CIAMPINO) |

PORTO | ROME (CIAMPINO) | SEVILLE | VALENCIA | VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM FOR MORE INFORMATION “I love

SEVILLE |

PORTO | ROME (CIAMPINO) | SEVILLE | VALENCIA | VISIT WWW.RYANAIR.COM FOR MORE INFORMATION “I love

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“I love to wander off the beaten track in the Medina, look at the old
“I love to wander off the beaten
track in the Medina, look at the old
façades and imagine what it was
like here a few decades ago”
JEAN-FRANÇOIS CLAEYS
OWNER, RIAD TCHAIKANA
MARRAKESH ON THE GROUND FLY TO MARRAKESH FROM 14 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING ON THE TABLE TAGINE

MARRAKESH ON THE GROUND

FLY TO MARRAKESH FROM 14 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING

GROUND FLY TO MARRAKESH FROM 14 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING ON THE TABLE TAGINE GENIES THERE’S MORE TO

ON THE TABLE

TAGINE GENIES

FROM 14 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING ON THE TABLE TAGINE GENIES THERE’S MORE TO MOROCCAN cuisine than tagines
FROM 14 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING ON THE TABLE TAGINE GENIES THERE’S MORE TO MOROCCAN cuisine than tagines

THERE’S MORE TO MOROCCAN cuisine than tagines and couscous. That said, it really does help if you’re into tagines and couscous. Moroccan food is all about the subtle balancing of sweet and savoury flavours, with dates, prunes, sultanas and honey contrasting with seasonings and spices. Since it’s compulsory to try at least one tagine while you’re here, it’s worth going to the places that set the benchmark, Al Fassia 11 (www.alfassia.com) and Le Foundouk 12 (www.foundouk.com). Al Fassia has long been rated the best Moroccan restaurant in town, and one bite of the gamey, eggy, cinnamon-laced pigeon pastilla (a flaky pie), or a forkful of the drop-from-the-bone lamb tagine will prove this new-town eatery is still on top of its game. Meanwhile, Le Foundouk adventurously pairs the likes of rabbit pastilla and calamari tagine with excellent wines from the coastal town of Essaouira. The spectacularly converted old house is spread over three levels and is ideal for special occasions. If you’re looking to spend less, Chez Chegrouni 13 offers simple, good-value

less, Chez Chegrouni 1 3 offers simple, good-value EINDHOVEN | FRANKFURT (HAHN) | GIRONA (BARCELONA) |
less, Chez Chegrouni 1 3 offers simple, good-value EINDHOVEN | FRANKFURT (HAHN) | GIRONA (BARCELONA) |

EINDHOVEN |

Chegrouni 1 3 offers simple, good-value EINDHOVEN | FRANKFURT (HAHN) | GIRONA (BARCELONA) | LONDON (LUTON

FRANKFURT (HAHN) |

offers simple, good-value EINDHOVEN | FRANKFURT (HAHN) | GIRONA (BARCELONA) | LONDON (LUTON AND STANSTED) |

GIRONA (BARCELONA) |

LONDON (LUTON AND STANSTED) | |

| GIRONA (BARCELONA) | LONDON (LUTON AND STANSTED) | MILAN (BERGAMO) | let it stew Taste

MILAN (BERGAMO) |

let it stew

Taste some Moroccan food(LUTON AND STANSTED) | MILAN (BERGAMO) | let it stew at its best at Le Foundouk

at its best at Le Foundouk

Chez Chegrouni servesit stew Taste some Moroccan food at its best at Le Foundouk tasty vegetable tagine Square

tasty vegetable tagine

Square meal tagines and couscous in an unbeatable location – the top floor offers brilliant
Square meal
tagines and couscous in an unbeatable location – the top floor offers
brilliant views of Jamaa el Fna. Nearby, Borj El Koutoubia 14 whips up
a sensational fish tagine; while Restaurant Naïma 15 is the cutest of
eateries and feels like you’re in a local family’s front room. The 99MAD
(€9) three-course set menu represents excellent value for money.
At Gastro MK 16 (www.maisonmk.com), the tiny restaurant at
Maison MK, chef Omar El Ouahssoussi serves a “deconstructed tagine”,
which takes the constituent parts of the stew and turns it into the kind
of steak dish you’d find in a Parisian bistro. The 615MAD (€55) tasting
menu begins with drinks and canapés on the roof terrace before moving
Eating dinner in Jamaa
el Fna can feel like
an endurance sport.
But, as any marathon
runner will tell you,
the feeling of crossing
the finish line makes it
all worthwhile. There
are dozens of stalls
at the nightly food
market and every one
will fight tooth and
nail for your custom.
Nearly all the food is
cheap, authentic and
fabulously tasty.
With so much
choice, the only
sensible option is a five-
course meal. With each
course at a different
stall, naturally. Get into
the swing of things with
a
5MAD (€0.50) bowl
of escargots, then head
downstairs to the intimate, quiet restaurant – definitely one for couples.
Another elegant location is the courtyard of Le Jardin
17 , whose
young Moroccan owner Kamal Laftimi already has three successful
eateries under his belt. His latest venture takes full advantage of the
tranquility offered by a stately old riad. Aside from table football,
chessboards and a friendly rabbit called Momo, there’s a French/
Moroccan mix of croque-monsieurs, tagines, hamburgers and the city’s
best cupcakes. For non-Moroccan food, go to Kechmara 18 (www.
kechmara.com), a much-loved new town restaurant that boasts an
eclectic menu, and equally eclectic live music Wednesday to Saturday.
And when you’re craving a mid-shop caffeine boost go to Le Picasso
Du Cafe 19 and order a “nos-nos”, a local take on the macchiato. The
enthusiastic man making the coffee is a former footballer, hence the
photos of soccer players all over the walls.
to the soup kitchens on
the far side for some
khobz (bread) and
harira (a spicy lentil
and tomato soup).
Then venture deep
into the market for a
plate of sheep’s head
(what could possibly
go wrong?) followed by
a
pigeon pastilla. Wrap
things up with a cup of
super-strong cinnamon
tea and slice of ginger
cake. Yum.
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“I love the simple little restaurants in the souk where old women cook for you.
“I love the simple little restaurants
in the souk where
old women cook for you.
The food tastes amazing”
KAMAL LAFTIMI
RESTAURATEUR
MARRAKESH ON THE GROUND FLY TO MARRAKESH FROM 14 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING to THE bar BELLY

MARRAKESH ON THE GROUND

FLY TO MARRAKESH FROM 14 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING

GROUND FLY TO MARRAKESH FROM 14 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING to THE bar BELLY LAUGHS AND BELLY DANCING
GROUND FLY TO MARRAKESH FROM 14 DESTINATIONS, INCLUDING to THE bar BELLY LAUGHS AND BELLY DANCING

to THE bar

BELLY LAUGHS AND BELLY DANCING

INCLUDING to THE bar BELLY LAUGHS AND BELLY DANCING “TO ME, MARRAKESH IS EXCITING,” says Buddha

“TO ME, MARRAKESH IS EXCITING,” says Buddha Bar founder Claude Challe, sitting by the large gate that separates his new venture Djellabar 20 (www.djellabar.com) from the outside world. “This is where I want to be.” If you’ve been to a branch of Buddha Bar you’ll know what to expect – playful pop-art (John Lennon wearing a fez), chill-out music, a fusion menu of Moroccan and Asian food, and dodgy puns (a djellaba is a traditional robe). Challe’s “Maroc ’n’ roll” style seems to work – only a month after opening the bar is packed to the rafters with Marrakesh’s notoriously fickle see- and-be-seen crowd. There’s only one place in town that can follow drinks at Djellabar – the nearby Comptoir Darna 21 (www.comptoirmarrakech.com), with its nightly belly dancing shows. Ignore the inconvenient truth that belly dancing has never been a local tradition and just enjoy the show for its sheer silliness. The scantily clad dancers shake their stuff for tourists holding camera- phones, while more fully clothed dancers waltz around the room balancing a load of lit candles

waltz around the room balancing a load of lit candles BRUSSELS (CHARLEROI) | DÜSSELDORF (WEEZE) |
waltz around the room balancing a load of lit candles BRUSSELS (CHARLEROI) | DÜSSELDORF (WEEZE) |

BRUSSELS (CHARLEROI) |

room balancing a load of lit candles BRUSSELS (CHARLEROI) | DÜSSELDORF (WEEZE) | FRANKFURT (HAHN) |

DÜSSELDORF (WEEZE) |

lit candles BRUSSELS (CHARLEROI) | DÜSSELDORF (WEEZE) | FRANKFURT (HAHN) | LONDON (LUTON AND STANSTED) |

FRANKFURT (HAHN) |

(CHARLEROI) | DÜSSELDORF (WEEZE) | FRANKFURT (HAHN) | LONDON (LUTON AND STANSTED) | Maroc ’n’ roll

LONDON (LUTON AND STANSTED) |

Maroc ’n’ roll

Dancing and dining at(HAHN) | LONDON (LUTON AND STANSTED) | Maroc ’n’ roll Comptoir Darna Get above it all

Comptoir Darna

Get above it all at the| Maroc ’n’ roll Dancing and dining at Comptoir Darna Sky Bar Locals’ favourites If you

Sky Bar

Locals’ favourites If you want a break precariously on their heads. For a quieter drink,
Locals’
favourites
If
you want a break
precariously on their heads. For a quieter drink, you can sit in the shisha
pipe garden or in the quieter dining section – the menu is split between
North African and European cuisines. Drinks are unsurprisingly pricey,
but it’s worth it for the entertainment.
After the glitz and kitsch of Djellabar and Comptoir you’ll be craving
something a little more sophisticated and subtle. The Marrakesh
hip crowd’s latest obsession, the excellent L’Apero 22 , certainly fits
the bill with a relaxed, informal ambiance and great quality tapas
and drinks. The raspberry mojito is this it-bar’s cocktail du jour.
The smooth, mood-lit vibe at the bar is somewhat undermined by
the occasional football match being screened on TV, but it’s always
possible to retreat to the serenity of the palm-fringed terrace. The Sky
Bar 23 at hotel La Renaissance (www.renaissance-hotel-marrakech.
com) is the best new-town option for a drink with a view. Stylish,
with great service and great drinks, the bar’s panoramic views over
Marrakesh are unbeatable on a clear night.
Since you’re not allowed to sell alcohol within close proximity of a
mosque, nightlife options in the Medina are very limited. Our favourite
place by far is Kosybar 24 (www.kosybar.com), a brisk 10-minute
walk from Jamaa el Fna. Plush sofas, cosy fireplaces, candlelit tables,
a well-stocked wine bar and a roof terrace with a view of the Koutoubia
Mosque towering over the old city is a winning combination. Japanese
food, something of a rarity is this part of the world, is available if you’re
feeling peckish.
from the sparkle, shine
and top-end cocktails
of Marrakesh’s à la
mode venues, there are
some more laid-back
options worth a look
too. At Bar Model
25 the owners are
blissfully unconcerned
about minor details
such as modernity.
This time-warp bar is
beautiful in a retro,
understated way,
and there’s a huge
outdoor terrace with
a
barbecue in the
evenings. Bottles of
Flag Spéciale and
Casablanca are only
15MAD (€1) each.
For nightly live music
with a sub-Saharan
vibe, African Chic 26
(www.african-chic.com)
is
very entertaining.
And for something
completely different,
try Madame Porte 27 ,
bar rarely frequented
by international
visitors where you’ll
find an undiluted
local experience – a
man playing a synth,
a
a
young singer, and
groups of Moroccans
grooving in their chairs.
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“The Medina has a very special energy. So many people there are creating things. There
“The Medina has a very special energy.
So many people there are creating
things. There are so many talented
tradesmen and cra smen”
CLAUDE CHALLE
OWNER OF DJELLABAR

MARRAKESH ON THE GROUND

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hit the shops

TO HAGGLE OR NOT TO HAGGLE?

MORE INFORMATION hit the shops TO HAGGLE OR NOT TO HAGGLE? MARRAKESH IS ONE OF THE

MARRAKESH IS ONE OF THE GREATEST shopping destinations in the world. But two magic five-letter words have long been absent from the retail scene. These words are “fixed” and “price”. Thankfully, it’s no longer the case that the only way to shop here is to haggle in the souk – although that can be fun too, of course (see column, right). The most exciting recent development in Marrakesh shopping is the row of boutique shops in the arcade beneath the Terrasse des Épices restaurant. Lalla 28 (motto: “From Marrakesh With Love”) is run by Laetitia Trouillet, a French woman who previously ran a fashion business in London’s Portobello Market. After moving to Morocco she worked as the city’s first personal shopper – Sarah Jessica Parker was a customer – before switching her focus to her own store. Trouillet works with local craftspeople to create distinctive handbags, accessories and a vintage clothing range. Next door, Sissi 29 is the store of French artist Silvie Pissard, and stocks handmade purses, pillows, shoes, teddy bears, T-shirts, and lampshades crafted from newspaper.

bears, T-shirts, and lampshades crafted from newspaper. Just like every item in stock, Atelier Moro 3
bears, T-shirts, and lampshades crafted from newspaper. Just like every item in stock, Atelier Moro 3
bears, T-shirts, and lampshades crafted from newspaper. Just like every item in stock, Atelier Moro 3
bears, T-shirts, and lampshades crafted from newspaper. Just like every item in stock, Atelier Moro 3

Just like every item in stock, Atelier Moro 30 is a complete one-off. Its owner, the Colombian designer Viviana Gonzalez, who’s lived in North Africa for eight years, is constantly on the lookout for beautiful new pieces to sell in her shop. When we popped in, she had just returned from a trip to the countryside where she had found handicrafts and impossibly cute toys made by local schoolkids. 33 Rue Majorelle 31 (www.33ruemajorelle.com) bills itself as Marrakesh’s first concept store. There’s certainly nothing else here like it – a large space over two floors where every corner is dedicated to a different independent designer, most of whom are Moroccan. Standout buys include kitschy purses, contemporary Moorish furnishings and subversive art and artefacts by local maverick Hassan Hajjaj. Prices are high, but so too is the quality. If there’s one shop in Marrakesh you shouldn’t miss, it’s Mustapha Blaoui 32 , but first you have to find it – would it be so hard to put a sign on the door, Mr Blaoui? To be fair, it looks like Mustapha has no need for signage because over the years he’s earned a reputation for being the go-to man for Moroccan furniture, carpets, paintings, lighting, pottery and, well, just about anything. While the elaborate, intricate items on sale couldn’t be further removed from Scandinavian minimalism, this warehouse feels like a 19th-century Ikea. It’s easy to wander through room after room and end up forgetting how to get back to where you started. Sit for a cup of tea with the softly spoken owner and he’ll sort out packaging, international shipping and – if you ask nicely – a hefty discount on the going price.

if you ask nicely – a hefty discount on the going price. Lights out Local goodies
if you ask nicely – a hefty discount on the going price. Lights out Local goodies

Lights out

Local goodies at Lallanicely – a hefty discount on the going price. Lights out Mustapha Blaoui has your interior

Mustapha Blaoui has youron the going price. Lights out Local goodies at Lalla interior decorating needs taken care of

interior decorating needs taken care of

Blaoui has your interior decorating needs taken care of Souk shopping When it comes to the

Souk

shopping

When it comes to the markets of Marrakesh, haggling is like a sport. So you could say that the most important thing is not to win but to take part. Many visitors approach haggling with trepidation or even fear. Others get a real thrill out of it. The trick is to find a balance between the two. It goes without saying that you should never pay the first price you’re quoted – it could even be more than double the going rate. But great deals on quality goods are possible here, and if after a bit of a friendly haggle you reach an agreement that you think represents a fair deal, it’s OK to hand over the money. There’s no need to insist on a price so low that even you think it’s absolutely ridiculous. Just remember the golden rule of souk shopping – you’re always free to walk away. And one more thing: good luck!

PHOTO: WWW.PIXELEYES.CO.UK

MARRAKESH ON THE GROUND

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2 in THE bag MUST-BUYS FROM MARRAKESH 3 1 5 4 1 / VINTAGE COOKBOOK
2
in THE bag
MUST-BUYS
FROM MARRAKESH
3
1
5
4
1 / VINTAGE COOKBOOK
2 / STOP T-SHIRT
3 / LOCAL BEER
4 / MOROCCAN
PASTRIES
5 / HANDMADE PURSE

Want to cook those Moroccan dishes when you get back home? The last 15 copies of this gorgeously illustrated 1976 English-language cookbook are available for purchase at Atelier Moro.

250MAD (€22)

It isn’t exactly clear why staff at restaurant Le Jardin wear the word “stop” across their chests. However, we like the design and these colourful tees can be found on sale in the upstairs shop.

200MAD (€18)

Although most upmarket bars tend to only stock imported drinks, the locally produced booze isn’t half bad – and what’s more, the bottles look great. A small number of shops in the new town sell alcohol.

11MAD (€1)

If you get hooked on the sweet melt-in-the-mouth pastries that come with every cup of tea, head to Madame Alami on Rue de la Libertié to pick up a box to take home.

140MAD (€13)

This cute purse is made from recycled food packaging. A selection of similar styles can be found at concept store 33 Rue Majorelle, which sells plenty of covetable items to stash in your suitcase.

100MAD (€9)

344, ZI de Sidi Ghanem tél. +212 5 24 33 52 11 - karimtassi@yahoo.fr -

344, ZI de Sidi Ghanem tél. +212 5 24 33 52 11 - karimtassi@yahoo.fr - www.karimtassi.com

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There is no better way to view the world than on a bicycle www.argansports.com
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MAP ILLUSTRATION: MATT JOHNSTONE / JELLY ILLUSTRATION

MARRAKESH ON THE GROUND

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5 31 4 22 23 11 8, 25 18 17 1, 2, 3 28, 29,
5 31
4
22
23
11
8, 25
18
17 1, 2, 3
28, 29, 32