M05 Weft Knitting Technologies State of the Art I

Content Stitch formation, needle arrangements, cams (CD) Loop drawing needle notation Needle selection Flat knitting machine parameters Flat knitting pattern

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Loop drawing needle notation

Please draw the needle notation for the following pattern:

2 1

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Loop drawing needle notation

Please draw the needle notation for the following pattern:

4 3 2 1

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Loop drawing needle notation

Please draw the needle notation for the following pattern:

6 5 4 3 2 1

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Loop drawing needle notation

Please draw the needle notation for the following pattern:

8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
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Loop drawing needle notation

Please draw the needle notation for the following pattern:

3 2 1

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Loop drawing needle notation

e. g. Half Cardigan

2 1 2 1

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Loop drawing needle notation

e. g. Half Cardigan

2
2 1 2 1
References: Weber: Wirkerei und Strickerei. DFV 2007

1 2 1

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Parameters of Flat Knitting Machines

1. Machine gauge, 2 20 E , E = needles per inch 2. Yarn count in dtex / Nm
[E] dtex Nm
[E] dtex Nm

2 2,5 3 3,5 4 5 7 8 10 12 7500 6667 5556 5000 3848 2843 1623 1422 972 871 6x16/2 6x18/2 5x18/2 6x24/2 5x24/2 4x24/2 2x22/2 2x24/2 2x36/2 1x24/2 6x34/2 4x34/2 2x28/2 2x34/2 1x24/2 2x44/2 14 16 18 20 607 373 318 250 1x28/2 1x48/2 1x54/2 1x80/2 2x40/1 1x54/2 1x60/2

3. Area of needles, e. g. automatic flat knitting machine: 1,30 m 3,05 m 4. Number of systems, 1 6 systems, (6 systems = 12 cams) 5. Speed of carriage, up to 1,30 m/s Glove and toe sock machines have different parameters, which change depending on gauge and size.
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Yarn Count vs. Machine Gauge

Nm dtex
9000 8000

Cotton Wool Polyester Polyacryl Polyamide

1,52 g/ccm 1,32 g/ccm 1,36 g/ccm 1,17 g/ccm 1,14 g/ccm

6x 16/2 7000 6000 5000 6x 24/2 4000 3000 2000 2x 28/2 1000 28/2 0
0 2 4 6 8 10

12

14

16

18

20

gauge

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Fibre Production - Faser Produktion World Germany

Cellulosics 4,6% CO 31% WO1,4% PP 7,6 % PA 5 % Acryl 2,5%
References: C. Edward Hayes:Textile Market Research NY/USA; IVC, Frankfurt/Germany; Fiber Organon, Arlington, VA/USA In: Man-Made Fiber Year Book 2011 p. 4-12 M. Weber

PES 48%

PES 27%

PA 15% Cellulosics 27% Acryl 23% Other Synthetics

Others

Classification of Textile Application Anwendungen textiler Produkte World

Apparel

Germany
Technical

55 %

Apparel

Technical Home + Carpet

Home + Carpet

References: C. Edward Hayes:Textile Market Research NY/USA; IVC, Frankfurt/Germany; Fiber Organon, Arlington, VA/USA In: Man-Made Fiber Year Book 2011 p. 4-12 M. Weber

Patterns of flat knitting

1. Cuff, border structures, starts 2. Cam setting only - structural elements - stitch/ tuck/ float, e. g. (double) full cardigan, (double) half cardigan, knob, roll welt, Jacquards 3. Transfer/increase of stitches or tucks e. g. Petinet, jour, pelerine, Jacquards 4. Yarn carrier technology - Stripes (colour change), striper technology - Plating, intarsia, pile fabric or plush, weft 5. Needle bed racking - Racking without transfer (stitch, tuck), e. g. racked welt, racked cardigan every (2nd) course - Racking with transfer (stitch, tuck), e. g. Aran, cable stitch 6. Needle hook size and machine gauge, e. g. Multigauge

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Starts
1. Without start, only pattern design 2. 1 x 1 (half racked) 5. Tubular (without racking)

3. 2 x 1 (without racking)

4. 2 x 2 (half racked)

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Starts
6. Start with pick-up (reed) 7. Start with no pick-up (holding down sinker )

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source: Stoll M1 Plus

Production technologies of flat knitting

1. Conventional knitting (26 steps) - Front and back knitting, steaming, separating, cutting (8) - Sleeves knitting, steaming, separating, cutting (8) - Collar knitting, steaming, separating (3) - shoulder seams, sleeves linking, side seams, collar linking, neatening of yarns, labelling, final inspection (7) 2. Fully Fashion (22 steps) Cutting is not necessary 3. Integral knitting of whole garments (4 steps) Whole garment knitting, neatening of yarns, labelling, steaming, final inspection 4. Gloves and toe socks
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Colour Jacquard
Front Backing

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source: Stoll M1 Plus

Colour Jacquard backings

Double Face Horizontal stripe backing Birds eye backing Vertical stripe backing Ladder backing Single Face Float backing

2-Colour
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3-Colour

4-Colour

etc

2-Colour Jacquard ladder backings

Ladder full

Ladder 1 x 1

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source: Stoll M1 Plus

2-Colour Jacquard ladder backings

Ladder 1 x 2

Ladder 1 x 3

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source: Stoll M1 Plus