Miss Hangar One

A unique flying boat!

Thank you for purchasing your kit from Reds Hangar One Hobbies. To insure your complete satisfaction, please inspect this kit for missing or damaged parts before assembly. If you find any problems, please call or E-mail immediately. Reds Hangar One Hobbies 5350 Commerce Blvd. Ste. A

Rohnert Park, CA 94928 (707) 585-3170 Hangarone@sonic.net

Table of Contents
INTRODUCTION...................................................................................................3 KIT CONTENTS ....................................................................................................4 RECCOMMENDED EQUIPMENT ...............................................................................4 TOOLS/MATERIALS REQUIRED ..............................................................................4 CONSTRUCTION...................................................................................................5 RADIO INSTALLATION ..........................................................................................7 RADIO SETUP ......................................................................................................8 PREFLIGHT..........................................................................................................9 GROUND OPERATIONS .........................................................................................9 FLYING ............................................................................................................. 10

INTRODUCTION
This kit is NOT intended for beginners. If you do not posses at least average building and flying skills, we suggest you get competent help before attempting this project. Are you ready for something wild, something completely different, and something that will make you the instant center of attention whenever you fly? The Miss Hangar One flying boat will surely fill the bill. Is it a boat? Yep. Is it a plane? Yep. It is also possibly the most fun you can have on land, water and in the air all at the same time! Styled after the turbine powered unlimited racing hydros, Miss Hangar One captures that spirit and a whole lot more. You can rip it around on the water all you want and then go airborne at will for amazing aerobatic flight. With its reinforced hull you can also operated from hard surfaces like your local runway or street. At the local park, grass is the next best thing to water. So buckle up, youre in for a wild ride! This kit is precision CNC Laser cut from Depron. There are some unique features of this material. It sands well, much like balsa. It is also more rigid than blue or Fan Fold Foam. This means those less than perfect landings will usually just result in minor scraping or bending. The foam takes paint very well and can be coated with most aerosol spray paints. We like to use Tamiya model paints for their high gloss appearance and variety of colors. Use many light coats instead of a few heavy ones to cover quickly. If unsure about your paint, test it on some scrap first. Trim sheets also work well. The entire construction can be accomplished with foam safe CA. If you choose to use kicker, please use it sparingly, as it can attack the foam if used in quantity. We like to spray one part first, then apply the CA to the other part and join them. You may use epoxy for the firewall. If you choose to use epoxy for construction, please treat it like lead and use sparingly! When you build, as with any electric model, weight is critical. With this in mind, try to select components that will yield the lightest possible weight. This will ensure the best flight performance. We are a full service hobby shop. All of the necessary components are available from Reds Hangar One. We take customer feedback seriously. PLEASE if you find an error in the kit let us know, we WILL fix it! Please check your parts against the ID sheets in the back of this manual. We try our best to be as complete as possible, but were only human. Thanks, Red

KIT CONTENTS
Precision CNC Laser cut 3mm and 6mm Depron airframe components Precision CNC Laser cut 1/16 Plywood control horns (8) Precision CNC Laser cut 1/8 plywood motor mount and firewall .125 dia. Carbon hollow spars (2) .050 dia. Carbon pushrod and bracing (3) .032 pushrod wire Dubro mini EZ connectors (4) (DUB845) Dubro micro EZ link (8) (DUB849) Carbon fiber skid material 1/32 Ply hull reinforcement (2)

RECCOMMENDED EQUIPMENT
E-flite 370 outrunner 1080Kv Castle Creations Phoenix 10 ESC Thunder Power 900 3-cell lithium polymer battery GWS 6 channel Rx Hitec HS-55 servos (3) APC 9 x 6 prop Plugs for your battery and ESC (EFLM1200) (CSEPHX10) (THP9003SJ) (GWSR6PHJ/F) (HRC31055S) (APC09060SF) (WSD1222)

TOOLS/MATERIALS REQUIRED
Foam safe CA Kicker (optional) Dubro electric flyer hinge tape Zip ties Sanding block with 150-220 grit paper X-acto knife X-acto razor saw Double sided tape Masking tape Side cutters Heat shrink tubing (PAAPT25) (PAAPT15) (DUB916) (ASC7709) (GPMR6169) (XAC3201) (XAC75350) (DUB634)

CONSTRUCTION
Please take a moment to completely read through this manual before you begin. The construction sequence is a little unorthodox in some areas. The construction is laid out in a logical sequence, but this is an illogical flying machine! So please take care and make sure you understand each step before proceeding. Use only foam safe glues for the construction. Anything else will damage the foam. We are not responsible for gluing errors. Use the parts ID sheets at the end of this manual to cut each part loose from its sheet as needed. Note: All building is best done on a smooth flat bench for the most accurate results. There are pictures of the completed model at the end for your reference. 1. Begin by separating the elevators from the left and right deck with an X-acto knife. Glue the left and right deck halves together. Cover the spar slots with hinge tape. This is the top of the deck. 2. Separate the upper elevators, as well as the rudders. Using a sanding block, bevel these surfaces. a. Pro Tip: Lay the part you are beveling upside down even with the edge of your bench holding your sanding block at a 45 deg. angle. Sand in long, even strokes until you reach the bench. The result will be a perfect edge! 3. Add the control horns to all the surfaces as well as interconnects for the upper and lower elevators. 4. Hinge all the flying surfaces now. The elevators are hinged on top and the rudders on the outside. 5. Turn the deck over and run a bead of CA on the walls of the spar slots one at a time. Sparingly spray kicker on the spar and push into place. You may come back and apply another bead of glue to the top. Repeat for the rear spar. 6. Glue the deck doubler in place on the bottom of the deck being careful to retain alignment. The servo holes are the best indication of this. 7. Still working from the bottom of the hull, glue the inner sponsons in place making sure they stay 90 deg. to the deck. 8. Glue the steps in place. These are a nice tight fit; you will have to flex the inner sponson slightly to get them in. 9. Glue the forward sponson bottoms in place. Run a thin bead of glue on the step and inner sponson, then Sparingly spray the sponson bottom with accelerator and hold in place. 10. Glue the outer rear sponsons in place being careful to keep it 90 deg. from the deck. Do not put glue on the area that contacts the step. Glue to the deck only. 11. Trail fit the rear sponson bottom in place and note the area to be glued. Apply glue to the contact areas and fit into place. Go back and glue the area of the inner sponson to the step. 12. Now take some extra time to go back and make sure you have no gaps in the sponsons. You can glue all the seams from the inside. You want to make this 5

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area as water tight as possible. The rear of the sponsons are intentionally left open to let any water drain out quickly. Glue the ply skid plates in place even with the step. Glue the two .25 x 4 carbon skid rails even with the inside edge and rear step. Glue the two .175 x 3 carbon skids in place even with the rear of the inside sponson. Glue the outer 6MM sponson sides in place. a. NOTE: These are purposely cut over size to be sanded to shape. It is easiest to lay the part flat on the bench, and apply glue to the sponson. Then line up the step with the part and roll the boat onto the part. Sand to shape keeping all angles sharp. The outer edges of the sponsons can be rounded. This completes the basic hull construction. Next well work on the cockpit. Glue the front and rear bulkheads in place. a. NOTE: The front bulkhead is two-piece and has the slot for the motor mount in it. Glue the lower portion in only. Slide one side of the cockpit in place and glue to the top of the deck only. Do not glue the side on the bottom of the hull yet. Repeat for the other side. Using the rear radio hatch as a width guide, glue the cockpit sides to the bottom. After they have cured, glue the rear radio hatch in place. Glue the 6mm cockpit bottom in place. a. NOTE: This is the one without the slot for the motor mount. The top and bottom are cut slightly over size, so they can be sanded to shape. Glue the keeper in place on one end the radio hatch. The front will be hinged with tape and you can flex the hatch to slide the keeper in place. The 6mm cockpit bottom will be slightly higher than the radio hatch. Sand the transition smooth with 220 grit on a block and hinge in place. Glue the top cockpit in place. Again this is cut slightly oversize to allow sanding. a. NOTE: The rear of the top cockpit lines up with the front of the bulkhead, not on top. Be sure to align the notch in the bulkhead with the cockpit top. When dry, cut the nose off blunt and glue a piece of scrap 6MM Depron and sand the entire nose section to shape with 220 grit. Laminate the two motor mount booms with med. CA. Make sure they line up properly to each other. Glue the firewall in place with med. CA. Angle it slightly to the right when viewed from the top. The motor mount assembly can now be installed and glued from the top through the slots and into the deck. Now is a good time to trial mount your motor to figure out where the wires will need to exit the cockpit. You can cut a hole to route these wires through the top and into the radio compartment. Glue the top aft portion of the cockpit in place. a. NOTE: It only extends forward to the rear of the rear bulkhead, not over it. It is also slightly oversize to sand to shape. Begin scoop construction by gluing the front upper bulkhead in place. Glue the scoop sides in place. 6

30. Glue front and rear hatch portions in place. 31. Add the tabs to the front and back of the hatch. To use the hatch, insert one of the tabs under one end and bend slightly to fit the other tab under. 32. Sand the top scoop edges round. 33. Add the elevator stiffener to the bottom of the elevator Sand a slight angle in this to match the angle of the fins. (See picture) 34. Slip fit the rudders onto the elevators, and set in place on the hull. Use tape or a T-pin to hold in place if necessary. Looking from the front or the back, make sure fin angles are equal and glue in place. Glue elevator to the fins. 35. Glue the 2 .060 elevator stiffeners in place using the pre cut holes. a. Pro tip: The edges of the rest of the airframe can now be sanded to give it a more pleasing shape. Now is a good time to paint and decorate too.

RADIO INSTALLATION
1. Turn on your radio and center all servos. 2. Attach a long double-sided arm to your rudder servo. Install an EZ connector on each side. Slide the servo in place through the top hatch. Secure with a drop or two of glue. Hot melt glue works well for this. a. NOTE: The servo holes may need to be enlarged slightly with an X-acto knife. 3. Install a long arm and EZ connector on the two elevator servos. Install these from the bottom side through the radio hatch. 4. Cut 2 lengths of .032 wire for elevator interconnects. Be sure to cut them long enough to make a 90 deg. bend in each end and a Z bend in the middle to allow for adjustment. Make a 90 deg. bend on one end and install it into one of the lower elevators with an EZ link. a. NOTE: You will need to open up the control horn holes with a small drill bit or X-acto knife. It is very important that the pushrods do not hang up. All of the controls need to work very smooth. 5. Tape the upper and lower surfaces in place and measure wire for the other 90 deg. bend. Attach upper wire with an EZ link. Adjust Z bend in middle till they are evenly aligned. Repeat for the other side. 6. Mount your Rx and ESC. We mounted ours on the back of the front bulkhead. Route your Rx ant. Out through the rear bulkhead and secure to the elevator. Secure all loose wiring with zip ties. a. Pro tip: Wrap a zip tie around you wiring and poke it through the foam. Cut it off at about 1/8 long and glue in place. This will help keep all your wiring neat and tidy. b. Note: You may need to cut holes in the deck to route wires. 7. Cut Carbon pushrod material to length. It needs to be approximately 3-4 inches shorter than the distance from the servo arm to the control surface. You can wrap the area to be cut with masking tape. This will help keep the ends from fraying. A razor saw works well for this. After it is cut, seal the end with thin CA. 8. Cut a short length of .032 wire that will be glued to the pushrod end. It will be glued to it with at least 1-inch overlap on the Carbon and 1-2 inches beyond. 7

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Tack it in place with medium CA. Wrap it with thread and soak it with thin CA. You can also use heat shrink tubing after you glue it instead of thread. Repeat for other end. Pass one of the rudder pushrods through the cockpit side pre cut hole and into the EZ connector. Secure the pushrod to the control horn with an E-Z link. Center the rudder and tighten screw. Repeat for other rudder pushrod. Repeat same procedure for the elevator pushrods. Mount your motor and prop. Route wires through the hole you made in the cockpit earlier. C.G. is located behind the spar. Velcro the battery in place on the bottom side up towards the nose to achieve this. a. Pro tip: A few drops of CA on the back of the Velcro will help it stay attached after many battery removals. b. A word about waterproofing. We have not had the need to water proof our gear. It rides quite high in the water and unless you give it a severe dunking, its not likely to get wet. However, it would be wise to put the ESC and Rx in balloons and seal with a zip tie to be safe.

Building is now complete. After a short radio setup, you will be ready to fly.

RADIO SETUP
Set your radio to Delta wing mode and verify all controls are moving in the right direction. o Right aileron=right side elevators up, left down. o Left aileron=left side elevators up, right down. o Down elevator=all four elevators down. o Up elevator= all four elevators up. o Right rudder=both rudders right. Start with travel on all surfaces on low rate, and as much as you can get on high rate. You can adjust more up or down from there after you get a few flights under your belt.

This plane (boat?) needs rudder to make nice coordinated turns. To make this easier you can set up an aileron to rudder mix if your radio will allow it. About 40-50% is a good place to start. If you are used to using rudder without mixing, this is the preferred method. There are times when cross controlling is necessary to keep it flat when you are near the surface. We start with about 30% expo for the low rate and 60% on the high rate. If your radio has the capability for a throttle curve, this really helps out a lot for hovering. Also when you are using the rudder, slight throttle movements will be less noticeable. We now fly exclusively on high rate with substantial expo. This takes a little while to get used to, but once you do you will find it more comfortable than flipping switches for different maneuvers. 8

PREFLIGHT
Double-check your C.G. Check all controls operate in the proper direction and return to center each time. Check all linkages are slop free. Check all radio gear is properly secured. Check your prop is tight and balanced (IMPORTANT!)

GROUND OPERATIONS
Grass: Your first test hops should be on grass. It keeps it the most directionally stable, and offers a bit of crash protection. Drive it around for a while to get used to how it turns with rudder. It will tend to stay on the grass up to full throttle if you leave the elevator centered. Try not to push any down elevator while on the surface or you run the risk of catching the prop. When you are ready, ease back on the elevator at about throttle and it will become airborne. Make your first few hops in a straight line and low. Pavement: With the ply and carbon reinforced bottom, running on pavement is possible, but not highly recommended. You will eventually wear through the bottom. However it is quite fun, and if you keep an eye on the skids, it should be fine. Handling on the pavement is a little different than on grass. It is less directionally stable, and wont turn as tight, and tends to skid more. Wind will make it weathervane easily. It will also accelerate more quickly, and get airborne earlier. Water: Now this is where the fun is! It will accelerate quickest here. When on the water, it is best to hold in an ever so slight amount of up elevator to keep the rear strakes in the water and prevent a spinout. As you get faster and the rudders take over, you can relax the up elevator or you will get airborne. Full throttle passes take a little practice to keep on the water, it wants to fly easily!

FLYING
Airborne it is very stable and naturally wants to fly slowly in a pitched up attitude. Make your turns as coordinated as possible. If you are using a mix, adjust it till it feels right. Youll know when you hit the sweet spot, it will groove nicely through the turns. Get the speed up and it gets quite lively. Rolls, loops and even knife-edge flight are possible. It will fly inverted but it tries desperately to be right side up! Once you feel comfortable, it slows down well for harriers and hovering maneuvers. Most people tend to fly it too fast. Thank you, and we hope you are satisfied with your purchase. Should you have any questions or comments, please dont hesitate to contact us. We strive to make our products as high quality as possible, and only through feedback from our customers can we make that happen.

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