PARIS, October 4, 2011 The collection was based on the three Gs: Grs for the pleating and

draping, Gaud for the architecture, and Gaia for the sense of all-encompassing oceanic life that infused the clothes, like the outfits composed of coral or shells. Or the incredible engineered matelass jacquard in a barnacle pattern. Or the silk chiffon in an oyster print, which had been layered, cut into circles, and ribbed (though that hardly even begins to explain the complexity of the result). The details of the clothes were so obsessively conceived and realized, they could have easily sunk the clothes. She compared the movement of a trapeze dress to swimming. Another dress, as pale, ruffled, and fragile as a peignoir, rolled like surf. But this collection proved how hot-wired into the core of McQueen Burton truly is. The color paletteas translucent as the inside of a shellhad the kind of unambiguous prettiness that McQueen himself might have felt inclined to disrupt in some way. Burton duly injected the glossy black leathera sinister barracuda slipping through the shoals of shimmer

MILAN, January 17, 2012 By Tim Blanks They had come up with some doozies, like the high-necked, full-sleeved Victorian confection in black mousseline that invoked the spirit of Charles Frederick Worth, fashion's first couturier, or the gown whose torso was crusted with floral embroidery. Best of all was a strapless spectacular embroidered with the same blowsy tulips that made Burton's new men's collection so special.

This was grand McQueen, the kind of museum-worthy stuff that sustains the legend with its almost operatic lavishness. Burton does it brilliantly. There were other things here that were scarcely less elaborate. We could feel the obsession in such exquisitely realized pieces, which is why they bordered on the overwrought. And which is why the most suggestive elements of Burton's pre-fall collection were the plainest: the cropped pants with a little kick in the back that she paired with white poplin shirtsor maybe a peasant blouseand jacket shapes mutated from menswear. There was still a flavor of McQueen drama, but the taste was fresh.

Sabyasachi

Fashion Aesthetic Sabyasachi'sdesign philosophy is very simple and clear-'Personalized imperfection of the human hand'. Deserts, gypsies, prostitutes, antique textiles and cultural traditions of his home town, Kolkata have been a lifelong inspiration for this designer who believes that clothes should just be an extension of one's intellect. He uses unusual fabrics, texturing and detailing, 'fusion' of styles, 'patch-worked' with gorgeous embellishments in a vibrant diverse color palette to make the feeling of going back to the soul'. His creations evoke images of ancient and medieval ages. He describes his own collections as 'an International styling with an Indian soul. In his designs, he tries to maintain a non commercial balance in an extremely aggressive, commercial and competitive industry. He pioneered the use of Indian textiles, albeit in a modern context. His collection is for people who prefer to walk a path less traveled and who definitely believe that slowing down is not equivalent to dropping out.