PART
The next sections will list in stages a suggested general procedure for measurement and adjustment of the steering geometry.
charts above a number of measurements are taken from fixed points on the vehicles suspension and wheel centres (measurement points vary, dependent on manufacturer). If the ride height is not within the manufacturers tolerances the results would dramatically affect the measured values, in particular the camber and toe values. If the ride height is not within specification then it must be adjusted to the correct specification. Some manufacturers may specify additional weight to be added
Figure 1.
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Figure 2.
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Stage 4: Adjustments
After carefully reviewing the measured alignment angles we can now proceed to the adjustment phase. It is critical that the adjustments are started on the rear of the vehicle first to ensure that the rear thrust line corresponds to vehicle centreline. The rear camber is adjusted first followed by the rear toe; if you adjusted the toe first you would then have to adjust it again after the camber adjustment has been completed. On some vehicles only the rear toe is adjustable but it is becoming increasingly popular for modern vehicles to have adjustable camber as well. The adjustment mechanism can be either a simple increase or decrease of a rod length or a more commonly used system of eccentric cam as can be seen in the diagram below. After the vehicles rear adjustment has been
completed we can now move on to adjusting the front alignment angles. As per the rear adjustment, there is also a recognised order of adjustment for the front alignment angles. As with the rear axle, not all the front angles may be adjusted; however, in this case we will assume that adjustments can be made to the caster, camber as well as the toe angle. The first angle you should adjust is the caster. It is important to remember that although the caster angle will change on the screen as you adjust it, it is not an accurate reading as the measured angle is taken with the road wheel at a 7 or 10 degree angle. Therefore, you must make small adjustments and then re-swing the wheels and recheck the values. Continue with this procedure each time until the correct adjustment value is obtained. After caster value adjustment, proceed to camber adjustment. This can be of the eccentric cams type, which may also be used in conjunction with adjustment of the caster at the same time (see diagram overpage). Or, as is more commonly being used, the system of
Q: A 2000 Rover 75 has some problems with the CAN communication system. Our scanner is returning a code description that states CAN data bus communication error. We are still able to access most systems but cannot get communication with the ABS ECM. After testing the system we know that the ABS ECM has its lives and earths, but even though we have tried several scanners we still cannot access this module. A: The engine bay wiring loom for this car runs very close to the inner wing panel on the left hand side. Down near the fuse box it is possible for the wiring loom to chafe against the inner wing panel. This can result in the wiring becoming exposed and in the worst cases the wiring could short out causing the type of problem you are experiencing. Have a look at the wiring here and if any damage is found repair, insulate and fix the wiring harness in place. You should be able to get into the ABS system now and the CAN trouble codes should have cleared. Q: Water is entering the nearside front of a 2003 Honda Jazz, wetting the carpet and causing condensation. Leak testing has failed to reveal the entry point. A: Its most likely to be the door. The sealant used for door water shields is prone to hardening
and cracking over time. Pour water on all door glasses and look for a leak into the car from between the inner door panel and the door lining. Recommended procedure is that if you find a leak on one front door, you should rectify that door and both rear doors. If the leak is from a rear door, you should rectify both rear doors only. Remove the door panel trim/trims and the water shield and the old butyl seal. Reapply new butyl seal, following the original routing, and fit a new water shield. Ensure there are no air bubbles between the sealer and the water shield and that the water drain hole, at the lowest point of the sealer route, is not blocked by sealer. Carry out a leak test before refitting the trims. Q: A Renault Master has developed a worrying vibration that is proving difficult to rectify. Its coming up through the steering wheel at motorway speeds and feels similar to an out of balance front wheel. We have re-balanced the front wheels and also checked the tracking settings. A: It sounds like you have covered the basics for this problem. The next step is an inspection of the front cross member. Clean the areas around the lower front wishbone mounting bolts and look for any signs of cracks, which could result in movement of the mounting and the vibrations you describe. If any cracks are found, you will need to fit a new front cross member. Q: An Audi A6 with a 4.2 FSI engine is displaying an engine malfunction warning light. The engine code is BVJ
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and the diagnostic trouble code we have taken from the engine management system suggests that the mixture adaptation is too lean. This code keeps coming back when cleared so I know it is a permanent fault, even though the vehicle seems to start, drive and run all right. A: Most modern engine management systems have adaptation values that change the running parameters of the fuel injection system over a period of time. They are used to take into account such things as wear in the engine, wear in the components of the fuel injection system, changing driving styles, boost control, etc. These values are defined in a minimum to maximum range. When the system tries to go outside these pre-set limits, a trouble code will be set. The breach of these limits can be caused by a sudden rush of unexpected additions to the inlet charge. In this case it is an excess of inlet air. I have seen damaged crankcase breather hoses or connections on this engine. Check the hoses and connections where they join the inlet tract to the engine, especially where subjected to vibration or flexing. Replace any damaged parts and carry out an extended road test to get the system back to normal.
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replacing the front strut bolts to a smaller diameter, allowing a small or large adjustment to the camber angle, depending on the size and replacement bolt
these must be equal at the end of the adjustment to ensure that turning radius and steering wheel position are correct.
Turning: The steering wheel should turn easily in either direction and should return quickly and smoothly to the neutral position when released. Braking: The steering wheel should not pull to either side when braking on a flat, smooth road. Abnormal noise: No abnormal noise should be heard during the
position as shown in the charts. After the camber adjustment we can now move on to the final adjustment area of the front toe. This may be a simple procedure of adjusting the track rod lengths, bearing in mind that
driving test from the steering or suspension components. The listed procedure is only a suggested method of wheel alignment adjustment. You should always refer to the manufacturer for adjustment data, special tools and recommended equipment.
These articles are contributed by ProAuto, an automotive technical training company based in Shrewsbury, Shropshire. The company runs courses from venues nationally, so a course is never too far away. For further details, visit www.proautotraining.com or email info@proautotraining.com or telephone 01743 762050.
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