Opportunities
Today and Tomorrow
In-Cosmetics Berlin,
April 14, 2005
Definition of Cosmeceuticals
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Cosmeceutical History
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Synonyms
The controversial position of the term
cosmeceutical between COSMEtic and
pharmaCEUTICAL
Therefore, other expressions are often preferred:
• Functional cosmetics
• Dermaceuticals
• Performance cosmetics
• Bio-functional materials
• Treatment ingredients
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Argentina 18.2
Indonesia 16.9
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Trends
Nevertheless, individual segments, such as skin care
products, are growing worldwide
In some cases, the evolution differs greatly, depending
upon the country:
• the men’s grooming market is growing strongly in Italy (+6.4%), but
decreasing in Germany
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Skin Care
The second largest cosmetic sector
Third fastest cosmetic growth sector
(not including sun care products)
The main sector for cosmeceuticals
• Acne treatment: classic target group are teenagers
• Specific skin care: dry skin treatments and skin
protection, etc.
• Anti-aging
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61%
Source: Leading Edge Reports
49%
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Cosmeceuticals in Europe
Cosmetic designer brands with health claims are
mainly sold through pharmacies
Taking Italy as example, it was the strongest
growing channel in 2003 (+8.2%)
Herbalist shops were the second fastest growing
channel (+7.7%), confirming the increasing
demand for herbal cosmetics (nevertheless, it is
still a niche market)
Source: Unipro
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Anti-aging
Youthful looks are widely
perceived as desirable in all
age groups
Baby boomers are the target
generation
Preventing aging is driving the
use of anti-aging
cosmeceuticals to younger
Source: helpage international
consumers
The concept of age related
beauty is becoming
increasingly popular
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Vitamins
6% 5%
6% Polysaccharides
Botanicals
18% Proteins/Peptides
source: Kline & Company Inc.
65% Enzymes/Coenzymes
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Vitamins A & E
Used particularly because of their anti-oxidant capacity
(free radical scavenging effect, protective effect against
photo-aging, etc.)
Major suppliers are BASF, Roche, Cognis, etc.
Vitamin A compounds
— Oil-soluble antioxidants, biologically active form of vitamin A = all-
trans retinoic acid (retinol)
— improves the skin’s texture. Essential for the generation of skin cells.
Boosts the collagen content of the skin. Helps against acne.
— 50% of total consumption value
— 5-10% of consumption volume
Vitamin E compounds (tocopherols)
— Oil-soluble anti-oxidant. Stabilizes biological membranes. Skin
protective
— 40% of total consumption value
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Monosaccharides, Polysaccharides
and Vitamin C
Vitamin C Compounds
• One of the most powerful water soluble antioxidants.
• Acts as a collagen biosynthesis regulator.
• Reverses photoaging.
Monosaccharides and Polysaccharides
holds moisture, creating a water binding film on the skin and hair
• Senna seeds (Cassia angustifolia) -> Galactomannan
• Tamarind (Tamarindus indica) -> Xyloglucan: skin repair action.
Protects the skin and helps against premature aging
• Oarweed (Laminaria digitata)
• Fructose
— acts as a moisturizer,
— high content in baobab fruit pulp
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Enzymes/Coenzymes
Stimulate skin cell regeneration, affect collagen
and elastin, modulate skin lipid and oil
production and regulate cellular turnover.
New techniques for enzyme stabilization and
effective delivery at the site of action will
increasingly promote these ingredients
• Coenzyme Q10
• A potent anti-oxidant, used in skin creams and oral
care products to neutralize free radicals (used in
natural cosmeceuticals). It is also used in hair care
products because of its hair re-growth effect.
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Proteins/Peptides
The skin‘s „support“ matrix
Applied topically, they help the skin‘s surface to appear
firmer
• Collagen
moisturizer, skin smoothing, enhances the healing process
• Keratin
Surface protective, film-forming and moisturizing
• Elastin
Surface protective agent, alleviates the effects of dry skin.
Tightening.
• Pentapeptides
New pentapeptides (KTTKS) are designed to resemble collagen
fragments
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Botanical Ingredients
Consumer preference for natural botanical ingredients
Plant ingredients are preferred over animal derived
ingredients
Fractions or isolates of plant chemicals increasingly
dominate the market (plant peptides, isoflavones,
hormones)
GMO plant products are rejected by the consumer,
especially in Europe
Increased demand for organic ingredients instead of
merely natural ones
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• Plant acids, enzymes and Aloe are the most market relevant cosmetic
Source: Freedonia.
botanicals
• Nature provides us with a great many useful botanicals, the active
ingredients of which are being scientifically confirmed and are now
being increasingly used in cosmetics
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Antibacterial activity
Hyperforin (1 µM) inhibits multi-resistant
Staphylococcus aureus
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SCORAD=
Scoring of Atopic Dermatitis
Schempp CM, Hezel S, Simon JC (2003): Hautarzt 54: 248-253
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Before
treatment
After
4-week
treatment
Verum Placebo
Schempp CM, Hezel S, Simon JC (2003): Hautarzt 54: 248-253
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…or tea?
White and Green Tea
(Camellia sinensis)
• xanthines suppress
inflammation, irritation and
reduces cellulite;
polyphenoles have
powerful antioxidant
properties that are 20 times
stronger than Vitamin E
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Natural UV Filters
• Arnica (Arnica montana)
• Witch Hazel (Hamamelis
virginiana)
• Walnut (Juglands regia)
• Pomegranate (Punica
granatum)
• Edelweiss (Leontopodium
alpinum)
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Skin Whiteners
Research and • Bearberry (Arctostaphylos
uva-ursi)
production of skin
• Aloe (Aloe vera)
whiteners has been • Lemon (Citrus lemon)
mostly undertaken by • White Mulberry (Morus
Japanese companies alba)
But more and more • Chinese Sage (Salvia
miltiorrhiza)
European and American
• Liquorice (Glycyrrhiza
cosmetic companies are glabra)
entering this market • Watercress (Nasturtium
officinale)
• Amla (Embelica officinalis)
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Polynesia
Semitake Mushroom (Cordyceps sabolifera)? Skin protection
Wormwood (Artemesia carvifolia)? Revitalising the skin
Oriental Horsetail (Equisetum arvense)? Tightening slack skin
Tamanu (Calophyllum inophyllum) To heal chopped skin
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Hair care
Useful against hair loss Useful against dandruff
• Nettel (Urtica dioica) • Olive (Olea europea)
• Aloe (Aloe vera) • Jojoba (Simmondsia
• Coffee (Coffea spp.) chinensis)
• Aloe (Aloe vera)
Against hormonal hair • Sallow Thorn (Hippophae
rhamnoides)
loss
• Chastity Flower (Lugustrum
• Black cohosh (Cimicifuga lucidum)
racemosa)
• Saw Palmetto (Serenoa Useful to nourish the
repens) scalp
• Oriental Maiden Hair
(Trichomonas japonica)
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Summary
Cosmeceuticals are among the fastest growing
segments in cosmetics
Beauty and health are more and more combined
Functionality and clinically proven effects are
reaching top prices
Natural, and especially botanical ingredients are
preferred by consumers
The bio-diversity of plants and their ingredients
offer wide ranges of opportunities for
formulations and clinically tested products
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