Summer Guide
to Santa Fe
and northern
new mexico
the Santa Fe new mexican
|
www.SantaFenewmexican.com
Bienvenidos
After dark
|
Gallery trot in Truchas
|
Low and slow in El Norte
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2012 Bienvenidos 9
C
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Our location on the Plaza also has museum quality
antique and contemporary Native art
Native Jackets
u
On The Plaza
u
Santa Fe, New Mexico
505-984-0005
u
888-420-0005
www.NativeJackets.com
u
www.toadlenatradingpost.com
MARIA MARTINEZ
NAMPEYO
MARGARET TAFOYA
Mandarin Collar Blazer from the Chey Eagle Blanket
10 2012 Bienvenidos
COVER PHOTO
Don J. Usner
Fred and Anthony Rael in Freds 1967 Impala
show car, Liquid Sunshine
COVER DESIGN
Deborah Villa
OWNER
Robin Martin
PUBLISHER
Ginny Sohn
EDITOR
Rob Dean
EDITORIAL
Creative director Deborah Villa
986-3027, dvilla@sfnewmexican.com
Magazine editor Pat West-Barker
986-3052, mag@sfnewmexican.com
ADVERTISING
Advertising director Tamara Hand
986-3007
ART DEPARTMENT
Scott Fowler, manager
Rick Artiaga, Dale Deforest,
Elspeth Hilbert, Melyssa Holik
Advertising layout Christine Huffman
ADVERTISINGSALES
Michael Brendel, 995-3825
Gary Brouse, 995-3861
Kaycee Cantor, 995-3844
Mike Flores, 995-3840
Margaret Henkels, 995-3820
Belinda Hoschar, 995-3844
Cristina Iverson, 995-3830
Stephanie Green, 995-3820
Jan Montoya, 995-3838
Art Trujillo, 995-3820
NATIONALS ACCOUNT MANAGER
Rob Newlin, 505-995-3841
nationals@sfnewmexican.com
SYSTEMS
Technology director Michael Campbell
PRODUCTION
Operations director Al Waldron
Assistant production director TimCramer
Prepress manager Dan Gomez
Press manager Larry Quintana
Packaging manager Brian Schultz
DISTRIBUTION
Circulation manager Michael Reichard
Distribution coordinator Casey Brewer
WEB
Digital development Geoff Grammer
www.santafenewmexican.com
ADDRESS
Office: 202 E. Marcy St.
Hours: 8 a.m.-5 p.m. Monday-Friday
Advertising information: 505-986-3082
Delivery: 505-986-3010, 800-873-3372
For copies of this magazine, call 428-7645
or email caseyb@sfnewmexican.com.
enlas calles | on the streets
8 Where to park in downtown Santa Fe
mosaciode santafe | mosaic of santa fe
12 Sunset, Rio Grande, El Camino Real de Tierra Adentro
14 Broncos, bandstand, marimas and a naturalists birthday
16 Martn Rios cool summer salad and cooler head prevail
18 City of markets Four not to miss, seven more to note
20 Collectibles for all tastes and budgets
22 Five Santa Fe chefs share some favorite things
24 Must-reads for NewMexico history lovers
cientos de aos | hundreds of years
26 Letting our freak flags fly: Citys dwellers embrace different label
28 Signs of the times: NewMexicos state symbols offer mini-history lessons
30 10 Landmark images: Telling NewMexicos history through its art
33 Turn left at A-l-b-u-q-u-e-r-q-u-e: R we there yet?
adentro| inside
2012 Bienvenidos 11
BIENVENIDOS
2012 SUMMER GUIDE TO SANTA FE AND NORTHERN NEW MEXICO
colores | colors
46 Lowriders cruising el norte: An important part of Hispanic culture
52 The sounds of music: There are treats for every taste this summer
55 Going to the dogs: Off-leash and on-patio in Santa Fe
59 Life is short, art long wear comfortable shoes
62 Love the nightlife? Live music after dark
aire libre | fresh air
68 Fort Union is a ghost of its former self
70 Villanueva State Park: Agreat place to hike, picnic or fish
72 Small is educational: The Pecos National Historical Park Museum
76 Santa Clara Pueblos enterprises cover a broad spectrum
78 Rules of etiquette for pueblo visitation
79 Picuris Pueblos quiet village and elegant hotel are worlds apart
84 Digging it in Madrid: Nonconformists rule former mining town
comida| food
87 Cutting out the carne: High cuisine while eating lowon the food chain
90 Benedictine monks brewwith care and a prayer in Abiqui
94 Brewing up a storm: Where to find the suds in Santa Fe and points north
96 The guard changes but The Palace still stands
98 Eating at the extremes: Far-flung communities offer local specialties
por el camino| along the road
104 Legendary and living: Taos celebrates its remarkable women
107 High art: An art scene thrives in the mountain town of Truchas
110 Road trippin in Northern NewMexico
almanaque | almanac
115 Calendar of summer events (and moon cycles)
los esperamos | well wait for you
123 Mountain bikers blaze a trail in October
124 Come back for special fall and winter events
PUBLI SHED MAY 13, 2012
12 2012 Bienvenidos
PHOTO COURTESY OF JOHN ANNERINO PHOTOGRAPHY
Sunset, Rio Grande, El Camino Real de Tierra Adentro
There was no record but memory and it became tradition and then legend and then religion.
So long ago that they did not knowthemselves howlong, their ancestors, the ancient people,
moved. They went with the weather. Seasons, generations, centuries went by
as each brought discovery of places farther toward morning.
PAUL HORGAN, 1954, GREAT RIVER BOOK
My journey with camera and pen through the Land of Enchantment was not very direct. I traced many
highways, dirt roads, trails, and stony paths across NewMexico to witness sundown on the Rio Grande. There were
many forks and detours. Each demanded its own time-line, proffered its own symbol, presented its own distinct
marker, and carried its own legend: There were Spanish caminos, jornadas, and entradas; Old West trails, wagon
routes, and outlawtrails; Native American trade routes and migration trails; literary and artistic paths and sojourns.
Together they enticed me across a landscape of crimson deserts, mysterious cliff dwellings, lofty mesas, and snow-
blessed mountains I hadnt seen before. Many were and remain like no place on earth. When Willa Cather
wrote her endearing novel in 1927, Death Comes for the Archbishop, she described my own feelings that surfaced
while tracing echoes of the past across NewMexicos beloved land: They whispered to the ear on the pillow,
lightened the heart, softly picked the lock, slid the bolts, and released the prisoned spirit of man into the wind,
into the blue and gold, into the morning, into the morning. Hypnotized by the soothing sounds of the Rio Grande,
I counted my self lucky to be among them, my spirit set free into the luminous twilight.
JOHN ANNERINO
NEWMEXICO: A PHOTOGRAPHIC TRIBUTE, CENTENNIAL EDITION BY JOHN ANNERINO
Globe Pequot Press, 2012 Available at Garcia Street Books and Collected Works Bookstore, Santa Fe, and online from
Amazon.com. Inscribed editions are available fromthe author: www.johnannerinobooks.com.
mosaicode santafe | mosaic of santa fe
2012 Bienvenidos 13
\uscun o| lncian Arts c Cu|turc
Museum Hill off Old Santa Fe Trail | (505) 476-1250 | indianartsandculture.org |
They Wove For Horses
Din Saddle Blankets
Through March 4, 2013
Thc grcat ricc anc ski|| thc linc takc in
acorning thcir horscs is rcca|cc in this
cis|ay o| wcaings |oth ccrycay anc |anci|u|
Buchsbaum Gallery of
Southwestern Pottery
Ongoing
\orks |ron thc uc||os o| Ncw \cxico anc
Arizona arc rcscntcc hcrc, rcrcscnting thc
co|ution o| connunity tracitions
Woven Identities
Through April 1, 2014
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ing 6o cu|tura| grous in six cu|tura| arcas
o| wcstcrn North Ancrica thc :outhwcst,
Crcat lasin, l|atcau, Ca|i|ornia, thc North
wcst Coast, anc thc Arctic
Top: Margarete Bagshaw, Ancestral Procession, 2010. Bottom, left to right: Din tapestry- and diagonal twill-weave single saddle blanket, Spider Woman Cross style, 18809, photo by Blair Clark. Western Apache jar, c. 1900, photo by Addison Doty. Tesuque polychrome jar, 1890, photo by Blair Clark.
Margarete Bagshaw:
Breaking the Rules
Through December 30, 2012
laintings, |ronzcs anc o|ychronc ccranic
cssc|s ccnonstratc thc nu|ticincnsiona|ity
o| thc artists cazz|ing work
14 2012 Bienvenidos
mosaicode santafe | mosaic of santa fe
GENE PEACH
Clap your hands, tap your toes or get up and boogie: The
Santa Fe Bandstand brings free, danceable music to the
Plaza four nights and two afternoons a week betweenJuly 5
andAugust 16. Local andtouring bands play traditional New
Mexican, Tex-Mex, Latin American, folk, swing, jazz, blues,
rock, country, zydeco, soul and just about anything else
you can think of on Monday through Thursday evenings at
6 p.m, and at noon on Mondays and Wednesdays. See
www.Santafebandstand.org/schedule for the 2012 lineup.
Santa Fes inaugural Marimba
Festival gathers 10
international artists in
The City Different for
multiple concerts
and workshops
celebrating
marimba music
from around the
world between
June 6 and 9.
Catch free concerts
at the gazebo on the
Plaza from 3-4:30
p.m. on June 7 and
from 3:30-4:30 p.m. on
June 8; a free workshop for
kids and families from 9-11 a.m.
at the New Mexico School for the
Arts, 275 E. Alameda St., on Saturday
morning, June 9; and a free concert from 12:30-2
p.m. that day at the St. Francis auditorium in the New Mexico
Museum of Art. Order tickets to four other events from the
Lensic box office (505-988-1234 or www.ticketssantafe.org/
tsf). For a complete list of concerts and workshops, visit www.
santafemarimbafestival.org.
PUT ON YOUR DANCING SHOES
Santa Fe Marimba Festival
Rodeode Santa Fe one of the top
60PRCArodeos intheU.S. hosts
it 63rd annual competition from
June 20-23 at the fairgrounds, 3237
Rodeo Road. Events include bull
riding, bareback and saddle bronc
riding, team and tie-down roping,
steer wrestling and barrel racing.
Rodeo queen and princesses will
be crowned before the first nights
show. The annual rodeo parade
through downtown Santa Fe starts
at 10 a.m. on June 16. Tickets to all
events can be ordered online at
www.ticketssantafe.org, by calling
505-988-1234, or visiting http://
rodeodesantafe.org.
HAPPY BIRTHDAY, ERNEST!
What forces transform a man from a professional hunter of wolves to one who champions the intelligence of wild animals and a right
relationship with the natural world?
On Saturday, August 11, the Academy for the Love of Learning celebrates the 152nd birthday and the legacy of Ernest Thomson Seton
writer, artist, naturalist, early environmentalist and co-founder of Boy Scouts of America with free programs from 1 to 5 p.m. on
the grounds of Setons former Santa Fe home. The event includes admission to the Seton Gallery and Archives display housed in the
academys center and a guided one-hour tour of the Learning Landscape program installed outside the ruins of Seton Castle. Dramatic
readings, hosted by David L. Witt, Seton biographer and curator of the Seton Legacy Project, will bring some of the naturalists best
writings to life. For more information, log onto www.aloveoflearning.org and click on Seton Legacy.
PAT WEST-BARKER
Ride em, rope em, race em
GENE PEACH
2012 Bienvenidos 15
on the plaza in santa fe
NEW MEXI CO
MUSEUM OF ART
ITS ABOUT TIME:
14,000 YEARS OF
ART IN NEW MEXICO
505.476.5072
NEW MEXI CO
HI STORY MUSEUM/
PALACE OF
THE GOVERNORS
ILLUMINATING THE
WORD: THE SAINT
JOHNS BIBLE
505.476.5100
on museum hill in santa fe
MUSEUM OF I NDI AN
ARTS & CULTURE
THE BUCHSBAUM GALLERY OF
SOUTHWESTERN POTTERY
505.476.1250
MUSEUM OF
I NTERNATI ONAL
FOLK ART
FOLK ART OF THE ANDES
505.476.1200
16 2012 Bienvenidos
Whats redandblue
andgreenall over?
Martn Rios blue lump crab salad is the
essence of summer, combining the color and
crunch of radish, house-dehydrated beets and
micro-greens with the freshness of fennel
and pear, a spicy avocado pudding and citrusy
Greek yogurt dressing. On the appetizer
menu at Restaurant Martn in Santa Fe.
ALWAYS A BEARDSMAID?
In the 2 1/2 years since he opened his accessible
fine-dining restaurant with his wife Jennifer,
Martn Rios has been nominated three times
by the James Beard Foundation once for
best new restaurant and twice for best chef
in the Southwest. Although he has yet to win
the coveted award, Rios who has competed
on Iron Chef and received rave reviews from
such national publications as Bon Apptit, The
NewYork Times, the Washington Post and the
Los Angeles Times is philosophical about his
continuing Beardsmaid status. Another chef
he knows was nominated for 10 years before he
finally won, Rios said with a laugh and a shrug.
PAT WEST-BARKER
PHOTO BY KITTY LEAKEN
2012 Bienvenidos 17
Funded and hosted
& Gift Show
SANTA FE COUNTRY FURNITURE
525 Airport Road 660-4003 Corner of Center Drive & Airport
1708 Cerrillos Road 984-1478 Corner of 2nd & Cerrillos
Monday - Saturday 9 - 5 Closed Sundays
Furnishing New Mexicos Beautiful Homes Since 1987
Dining Room Bedroom Entertainment Lighting Accessories
J
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n
n
i
f
e
r
E
s
p
e
r
a
n
z
a
52 2012 Bienvenidos
ASanta Fe summer is a performing arts
wonder.
Both locals and visitors have several major milestones
to look forward to in 2012. The Santa Fe Desert Chorale,
first heard in 1983, celebrates its 30th season. The Santa
Fe Chamber Music Festival, which began here in 1973,
marks its 40th summer. The Santa Fe Opera presents five
newproductions, three of themcompany premieres.
Several collaborations with the opera are set as well.
Desert Chorale singers will join the SFOforces in Karol
Szymanowskis massive, mystical King Roger. The Santa
Fe Concert Association presents three one-hour voice
recitals by Santa Fe Opera stars, while the Chamber
Music Festival features several SFOsingers in concert.
In other performances, SFCApresents two evenings
of dance by soloists and principals of the NewYork City
Ballet; Aspen Santa Fe Ballet brings its probing artistry
back to its second home; and the NewMexico Jazz
Festival again explores Americas music.
And of course, behind the public concerts are the
people who cast the artistic spells for each group music
directors, managers and performers.
Way-better-than-OKChorale
The Desert Chorale is celebrating all kinds of music
for the 30th anniversary, said music director Joshua
Habermann. We have four different programs, two with
all [24] singers and two with smaller ensembles, and
one with an additional group of singers.
The first repertoire, FromBach to the Beatles (opens
July 20), will feature works ranging fromBachs first
motet for a capella chorus to excerpts froma setting
of the Russian Orthodox Vespers by Finnish composer
Einojuhani Rautavaara. That ties in with the final concert
of the season, a performance of Sergei Rachmaninoffs
powerful All-Night Vespers, set for Aug. 16. For that,
an extra contingent of singers will be brought in to
supplement the chorales regular members.
The other repertoires, each with 12 singers, cover a
great deal of ground. Celebrating the Centenary, which
opens July 28 and salutes NewMexicos 100 years of
statehood, features three pieces by composers who
embody the states ethnic diversity: Native American
(Jerod Impichchaachaaha Tate), Hispanic (Christian
Grases) and Anglo (Robert Kier). Another, Dancing the
Mystery, deals exclusively with Sufi poetry, especially
that of Rumi. It opens July 24. Santa Fean and opera star
Patricia Racette will give a benefit concert August 9 for
SFDCthat shows her jazz roots.
I feel really good about attracting audiences with this
repertoire, the Desert Chorales Habermann said. Weve
definitely had an uptick in quality of singers over the last
years, and its a great honor to be asked by the opera to be
in King Roger. (The Chorale also took the Santa Fe Opera
stage in 1998 in Ingvar Lindholms ADreamPlay.)
Pretty yummy stuff
For SFOgeneral director Charles MacKay, the 2012
season is a perfect hand of artistic cards. I love the fact
we have four of the biggest names in opera: Puccini, Bizet,
Rossini, and Richard Strauss, he said. Then theres
the wild card of King Roger. Its a beautiful piece an
extraordinary work with a very big chorus and orchestra.
Imso happy about the Desert Chorale joining us.
The operas 2012 opening night (June 29) is splashy,
with Giacomo Puccinis Tosca mounted for the first time
since 1984. Georges Bizets The Pearl Fishers, famous
for the tenor-baritone duet Au fond du temple saint,
receives its Santa Fe premiere the following night, June
30. Rossinis big-themed Maometto II (opens July 14),
the Szymanowski (opens July 21), and Richard Strauss
Arabella (opens July 28) round out the season.
As always, the singers will cover the waterfront from
the apprentice artists to international newcomers
and major stars. Its an important part of a companys
mission to showcase emerging artists on the international
scene and, at the same time, to showcase American
artists who are showing great promise and also feature
established artists, MacKay explained. We create an
eclectic mix of talent.
Its exciting when we have an opportunity to present
an artist doing a role for the first time in the U.S. he
added, instancing Thomas Hampson. The baritone sang
Malatesta in Don Pasquale for SFOin 1983 and has gone
on to become a world-famous operatic personality. His
Scarpia in Tosca marks the first time he has sung that
villainous role in the U.S.
MacKay described Maometto II as a pivotal work in
the bel canto repertoire, written when Rossini was 28;
SFOis using a new, critical edition of the problematic,
multi-version piece. As for Arabella, I think there are two
things that people have said to me since I returned, he
said. When are we going to have some more Strauss?
is one. And Please, please, please, can the operas be any
earlier? This summer everything is moved back, a half
hour earlier, to 8:30 or 8 p.m.
In addition to the mainstage productions, MacKay
pointed out that the popular Apprentice Artists concerts
will return and that there will be a special gala on August
4. The host is world-famous mezzo-soprano Susan
Graham, a frequent Santa Fe visitor.
Its going to be absolutely spectacular; were having
such fun putting the programtogether, he said. Susan is
plotting and planning. Its going to be like a fantasy night
of what opera singers would like to do if they could just
have a good time. Basically, its a concert with orchestra,
with a lot of serious music on the programfromMozart
The sounds of music
Opera to choral music, chamber music to recitals, dance to jazz, there are treats for every taste
The Santa Fe Desert Chorale Joseph Illick, Santa Fe Concert Association director Susan Graham
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2012 Bienvenidos 53
to Bernstein. But other things, too. Its going to be pretty
yummy stuff.
Concert associationreturns with
summer program
Besides its collaboration with the Chorale, the opera has
sanctioned Santa Fe Concert Association presenting
three one-hour vocal recitals by leading opera artists.
This is SFCAs second-year foray into summer
programming, which began in 2011 with other recitals by
SFOheavyweight artists Daniel Okulitch, Eric Owens and
Isabel Leonard.
These will all be one-hour concerts without
intermission on Sunday afternoons at 4 p.m., said SFCA
director Joseph Illick. Theyll be at the Scottish Rite
Center and followed by meet-the-artist receptions with
refreshments in their lovely courtyard.
Sopranos Nicole Cabell and Leah Crocetto will be the
first two artists featured, on July 22 and 29, respectively.
Cabell will sing a concert of music by American composer
Ricky Ian Gordon, who will accompany her. Crocetto
will be accompanied by Illick, as will bass-baritone Luca
Pisaroni on August 5.
In between the three recitals, SFCApresents two
evenings of dance featuring principals and soloists of New
York City Ballet including choreographer and dancer
Daniel Ulbricht, who put together a similar ensemble
that took the boards for SFCAthis past season. Were
bringing themJuly 25 and 26, Illick noted. Daniel said
thats when he can bring the best dancers.
In other summer dance, Aspen Santa Fe Ballet returns
to Santa Fe July 13 and 14 with two mountings of a new
work by Alejandro Cerrudo of Hubbard Street Dance
Chicago, Jiri Kylians Sechs Tanzes and Norbert De La
Cruz IIIs Square None. Hong Kong Ballet takes the boards
as an ASFBguest on July 31.
Chamber music milestone
With 40 years under its belt, the Santa Fe Chamber Music
Festival has planned a four-decade anniversary full of
highlights. These include world premiere commissions
by Helen Grime and Magnus Lindberg; co-commission
premieres by David Del Tredici and Aaron Jay Kernis;
a tribute to the late composer Peter Lieberson; and
the return of conductor-violinist Alan Gilbert, former
SFOmusic director and nowhead of the NewYork
Philharmonic, as artist in residence.
CMFartistic director Marc Neikrug has assembled a
long list of fine performers to take on the enterprising
list of repertoire. Some will arrive here as members of
a regular ensemble, such as string quartets. Others will
come singly, only to merge with other artists, through
intensive rehearsals, to become momentary families in a
musical clan.
The highlights of our 40th anniversary season are the
Sunday concerts and the always popular noon series in
the historic St. Francis auditorium, Neikrug said. Each
programis particularly fashioned to appeal to music
lovers of all genres. Concertgoers will also hear a wide
variety of the stellar artists performing at the festival,
including violinists Alan Gilbert and Ida Kavafian,
pianists Kirill Gerstein and Jon Kimura Parker, cellist
Gary Hoffman, and the Orion and Miro string quartets.
CMFhas only had three artistic directors in 40 years:
Alicia Schachter fromthe 1973 founding through 1991;
Heiichiro Ohyama from1992 to 1997; and Neikrug from
1998 to the present.
Even more powerful than the players, however, is the
actual repertoire. Talk about people who make things
happen: living or dead, CMFs composers are splendid
creators: fromJ.S. Bach, Samuel Barber, Bla Bartk,
Amy Beach and Alban Berg to Oliver Knussen, Lieberson,
Sergei Prokofiev, Franz Schubert and Arnold Schoenberg.
And one can observe the interaction between the masters
legacy on the printed page and those interpreting them
through daily open rehearsals a Chamber Music
Festival anchor project since the early 1980s.
Other jazz
The NewMexico Jazz Festival offers another
collaborative project this summer a three-way between
Outpost Performance Space, Lensic Performing Arts
Center and the Santa Fe Jazz Foundation. The seventh
season Santa Fe performances include Dianne Reeves
and Sheila Jordon on July 2 and Kurt Elling and Jon
Hendricks July 28, both in the Lensic. In 2011, 90-year-
old Mose Allison gave a free concert on the Santa Fe Plaza
so plan on some surprises when festival performers are
in town.
colors | colores
Charles MacKay, general director of the Santa Fe Opera Patricia Racette Alan Gilbert
CLICK IT FOR TICKETS
Aspen Santa Fe Ballet
July 13-September 1
www.aspensantafeballet.com
Tickets Santa Fe, 505-988-1234
Santa Fe Chamber Music Festival
July 15-August 20
www.santafechambermusic.org
Tickets Santa Fe, 505-988-1234
Santa Fe Desert Chorale
July 20-August 18
www.desertchorale.org
Tickets Santa Fe, 505-988-1234
Santa Fe Concert Association
July 22-August 5
www.santafeconcerts.org
Tickets Santa Fe, 505-988-1234
Santa Fe Jazz Festival
July 13-20
www.outpostspace.org
Tickets Santa Fe, 505-988-1234
Santa Fe Opera
June 29-August 25
www.santafeopera.org
505-986-5900
Venues include Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of
Assisi, St. Francis Auditoriumin the New Mexico
Museumof Art, Lensic Performing Arts Center,
Santa Fe Opera, Loretto Chapel, Cristo Rey Church,
Scottish Rite Center and New Mexico History
Museum. See websites for details.
54 2012 Bienvenidos
2012 Bienvenidos 55
BY BEN SWAN
Theres no doubt that Santa Fe has gone to
the dogs. Telltale signs of pampered pooches
abound throughout the City Different, from
the ubiquitous water dishes in front of many
downtown stores to pet-friendly hotels and
restaurants that boast special menus for their
four-legged guests.
Its hard to keep track of the number of specialty stores
and businesses that cater to canines. There are at least
four pet boutiques, a bakery that caters to dogs, a handful
of obedience schools, several doggie day-care businesses,
canine masseuses and stylists, dog acupuncturists and
countless bowls of dog biscuits at stores, banks and drive-
through windows just waiting for a chance to satisfy
Fidos hunger pains.
And last year, when Gov. Susana Martinez an avid
canine lover signed legislation that allowed dogs to
accompany their owners to restaurant patios throughout
the state, many animal-welfare advocates breathed a
collective sigh of relief.
Were finally civilized, said Catherine Joyce-
Coll, one of several ardent supporters of the so-called
dogs-on-patio legislation, at a victory celebration last
summer at Zia Diner on Guadalupe Street. Joyce-Coll
had worried that the city was turning against canines
and their companions, so she and Linda Kastner enlisted
the help of state Sen. Peter Wirth, Santa Fe, to craft the
patio-pups legislation.
Fat chance. While many restaurants had quietly
accepted dogs as patrons Albuquerque has long had
its own ordinance allowing dogs in eateries many
restaurants quickly embraced the concept. Zia Diner chef
Peter Walsh created special dog biscuits to celebrate the
legislations passing and said the restaurant plans to have
treats and water available at all times for canine guests.
We love dogs, Walsh said, adding that he was happy
to create a canine menu. It makes themfeel special when
they come in. In all the years that weve been permitting
it, weve never had any trouble.
Those who dont enjoy sharing their space with dogs
can easily eat inside the restaurant, whether its his
restaurant or any other, Walsh said. Canines are still
confined to outdoor spaces in eateries, but more and more
other kinds of businesses are encouraging customers to
bring along their pets while they shop.
Naturally, with so many places welcoming dogs in
the city, its nice to knowthat when dogs need to stretch
their legs, there are plenty of open spaces for themto
explore. While many public spaces allowdogs a quick
turn around the Plaza makes that abundantly clear the
city still requires all dogs to be on leashes unless they are
romping in a designated dog park.
Two relatively newdog parks include the Villa Linda
Park, 4350 Rodeo Road, which is open to all dogs, and the
small-dog park at the Salvador Perez Park, 601 Alta Vista
Street. Acity official said dog-walkers should check the
rules and regulations at the parks to make sure whether
leashes are required or not.
The citys premier off-leash dog-meeting spot, the
Frank Ortiz Dog Park, in the Solano neighborhood, is
often viewed as a dogs idea of heaven, with huge open
spaces for catching balls and Frisbees, meandering
trails, pion and juniper trees, and lots of opportunities
to socialize. Early mornings and evenings are the prime
times for people and canines to get acquainted or catch up
on the days activities. The awe-inspiring vistas are a plus
for animal guardians.
Going tothe dogs
AMIRAN WHITE
The Frank Ortiz Dog Park is the most popular off-leash open space in Santa Fe.
56 2012 Bienvenidos
I love the open space, said Jason Mitchell, toting his
children, Lily Claire and Gabriel, up near the King of the
Hill bench one Sunday evening. And the sunsets are
gorgeous.
The family, which includes momHelena, makes regular
visits to the park to exercise its young yellowLabrador,
Jack. The dog loves to interact with other canines, but the
Mitchell children also love to be a part of the pack.
Newand longtime residents often find themselves at
the park, sharing canine-training tips or stories of their
lives in Santa Fe. Visitors are always welcome with or
without canines. Sylvia Sieland started visiting the park
with her two beagles shortly after she moved to the city.
While the park is vital for canine socialization, Sieland
said the human interaction is equally important. Its a
place where people can get to knowtheir community.
This is one of the ways Ive networked, Sieland said.
Tourists love to come here in the summer. Its hot, but
once that sun goes down, its like an air conditioner has
been turned on.
The park, which was once the site of the citys landfill,
has improved tremendously over the years. Thanks to the
voter-approved bond for parks and open spaces, the area
nowhas several shade structures, access to water, trees,
benches and newtrails for the disabled.
At least twice a year, dedicated volunteers gather to
clean up the park. Its an ongoing effort coordinated by
Friends of the Dog Park, the Department of Parks and
Recreation, and Keep Santa Fe Beautiful. Pamela Geyer,
who, along with Jane Tokunaga, organizes the loose-knit
group of park users, says the seasonal cleanup efforts
help raise consciousness for the hundreds of people who
enjoy the park. Daily visitors to the park easily reach 400
humans and their canines.
As with many community meeting places, dog-park
users have put their mark on their beloved slice of
paradise. In summer, tables, chairs, water and bowls
spring up under shady spots. In the winter, trees sprout
bright ribbons, ornaments, birdseed bells, toys and dog
treats. Gathering spots often memorialize dogs or dog-
park users who have moved on.
Its a place where children learn responsible human-
animal interactions, and notices of services (such as dog-
sitting), meetings and lost-and-found pets are scattered
around the park. For the most part, people and dogs just
want to get along an attitude that reflects the spirit of
Santa Fe.
Geyer calls the park a place where the love of
companion animals, our appreciation of the fantastic
resource we have in the dog park, and sharing the
exquisite beauty of the space create bonds that surmount
differences of politics, economics or culture and can
even smooth over the many disparate personalities that
converge here.
One drawback of the off-leash park, however, is the
lack of an enclosing fence. To be safe there, dogs should
be under complete voice control and be able to obey their
owners commands to come.
The Santa Fe Animal Shelter &Humane Societys
fenced-in, off-leash dog parks are another alternative.
The private nonprofit that maintains the parks has one
large, enclosed community dog park for canines of all
sizes and another fenced-in park for small dogs. There
are also several fenced-in areas for dogs that might not
Canine al fresco
The following restaurants with patios have
indicated they are canine-welcoming. Its always
a good idea to call ahead to make sure there have
been no changes in restaurant policy. Remember:
Well-behaved dogs are welcome on restaurant
patios, but only service dogs are allowed inside
restaurants.
Aztec Street Cafe 317 Aztec St., 820-0025
Backroad Pizza 1807 Second St., No. 1, 955-9055
The Burrito Company
111 Washington Ave., 982-4453
C. G. Higgins Artisan Chocolates &Chucks
Nuts 847 Ninita St., 820-1315
Caf Caf 500 Sandoval St., 466-1391
Counter Culture 930 Baca St., No. 1, 995-1105
Cowgirl BBQ319 S. Guadalupe St., 982-2562
Dish NSpoon 616 Canyon Road, 983-7676
Downtown Subscription
376 Garcia St., 983-3085
El Farol Restaurant 808 Canyon Road, 983-9912
El Tesoro Caf 500 Montezuma Ave., Ste. 104,
988-3886
La Casa Sena 125 E. Palace Ave., 988-9232
La Choza 905 Alarid St., 982-0909
Los Cuates NewMexican Restaurant at The
Lodge 750 N. St. Francis Drive, 992-5800
Pink Adobe and Dragon RoomBar
406 Old Santa Fe Trail, 983-7712
Pranzo 540 Montezuma Ave., 984-2645
Restaurant Martin 526 Galisteo St., 820-0919
Santa Fe Baking Company
504 W. Cordova Road, 988-4292
Tabla de los Santos
Hotel St. Francis, 210 Don Gaspar St., 983-5700
Tias Cocina, Hotel Chimay de Santa Fe
125 Washington Ave., 988-4900
Tomme 229 Galisteo St., 820-2253
Tune Up Caf 1115 Hickox St., 983-7060
Vinaigrette 709 Don Cubero Alley, 820-9205
Zia Diner 326 S. Guadalupe St., 988-7008
SantaFe cityparks
Santa Fe parks and plazas are open to the public
between 6 a.m. and 10 p.m. daily, except when
organized activities are scheduled by approval of
city officials. Unless designated as an official dog
park, all dogs must be on a secure leash.
Railyard Park and Plaza along Cerrillos Road
between Guadalupe and Alarid streets; the plaza
is in the heart of the Railyard at the Railyard Water
Tower, along the rail corridor and Chile Line Lane,
north of Paseo de Peralta
Fort Marcy Ballpark near Murales and Bishops
Lodge Road
Entrada Park at the intersection of Don Diego
Avenue, Guadalupe Street and Cerrillos Road
Frank S. Ortiz Dog Park The citys official off-
leash dog park, 160 Camino de las Crucitas
Martin Luther King Jr. Park near Camino
Carlos Rey, Calle Serena and Rodeo Road
Santa Fe Plaza in the heart of downtown Santa
Fe, it is framed by Lincoln and Palace avenues, San
Francisco Street and Old Santa Fe Trail
Franklin E. Miles Park on Camino Carlos Rey
and Siringo Road
Salvador Perez Park 601 Alta Vista Street
Federal Park next to the U.S. District Court on
Federal Place
Ashbaugh Park 1703 Cerrillos Road, behind Fire
Station No. 3
Amelia White Park 981 Old Santa Fe Trail
Alto/Bicentennial Park 1043 Alto Street
Pueblos del Sol Park Nizhoni Drive and
Governor Miles Road
Torreon Park 1515 West Alameda Street
Gregory Lopez Park San Felipe Road and Hano
Road
Ragle Park located on Yucca and Zia streets
Herb Martinez Park on Camino Carlos Rey
Las Acequias Park on Calle Atajo
Monica Lucero Park on Avenida de las
Campanas
Frenchys Field near the intersection of Osage
Avenue and Agua Fria Street
Patrick Smith Park 1001 Canyon Road
Santa Fe Animal Shelter Dog Parks
100 Caja del Rio Road. Four enclosed dog parks: one
large park for dogs of all sizes, one for small dogs
and two individual parks. Operated by the Santa Fe
Animal Shelter & Humane Society.
be comfortable in a social environment. The parks boast
access to water, shade stations, benches, dog-waste bags
and waste containers.
All visitors to the areas dog parks should be aware that
cactus abounds, and snakes are often present. People
are urged to keep a close eye on their dogs and to keep a
pair of tweezers handy in case a canine stumbles upon a
prickly cholla.
NATALIE GUILLN
Cody Burch with her dog Maddie, right, and friend Jake,
at the Frank Ortiz Dog Park.
2012 Bienvenidos 57
58 2012 Bienvenidos
2012 Bienvenidos 59
BY BETH SURDUT
Art extends an invitation to walk in, lose your edges, and shimmer in its beauty.
Art makes a socio-political statement.
Art makes you wonder.
Art makes you wonder what the bleep the message is supposed to be.
Art matches the sofa. (Sigh)
Art tells a story.
Art prompts a story.
Art is interactive.
Youve arrived in Santa Fe, a city so steeped in art that you need a map,
a compass, a plan and stamina. One way to avoid sensory overload is to
take a Zen approach. Go slowly. Pay attention. Take small bites. Good
luck with that.
Here is an admittedly incomplete menu of suggestions on ways to experience the art
districts that drawpeople fromaround the globe. Most of the galleries mentioned are
either newor literally and figuratively off the main path. Art may stimulate the mind and
feed the soul but the body also needs fuel. Fortunately, a number of restaurants are
within or very near each of the major arts districts.
OPTION NO. 1 CANYONROADLESS TRAVELED
Welcome to the all-you-can-eat banquet of more than 100 galleries, studios and
boutiques on the main street and lanes of the historic Canyon Road arts district. Copious
choices line the half-mile-long hill, but turning off the main drag into an alley colored by
light and shadows offers the illicit pleasure of a hidden treasure hunt. Any place is the
right place to start.
At the bottomcorner of Canyon Road, at Paseo de Peralta, Hunter Kirkland Gallery
tucks in with other contemporary offerings. Owner Nancy Hunter has been in the art
business for 35 years. My relationship with my artists is much like a marriage, she said,
and like the elements of a good relationship, she looks for art that can soothe, stimulate,
excite and inspire.
Close by and across the street, the spacious enclave at 225 offers parking for a
selection of galleries, outdoor sculpture settings, clothing and home accessories stores.
Not far up Canyon Road to the left, intimate galleries dot little Delgado Street.
Beginning at the 600 block, the elegant Mark Sublette Medicine Man Gallery (with
parking!) and sculpture garden sits amid private homes. The beautiful, sun-washed
compound was developed by artist Agnes Sims in the 1940s. According to gallery
director Michael Ettema, Sims was prolific and multitalented and encouraged other
artists by hosting performances and readings on the patio.
In Gypsy Alley (700 block), the connected adobe buildings of the Chiaroscuro
Gallery span centuries, melding traditional Santa Fe style with architecture as open and
contemporary as the art exhibited. I like being off the main drag. People seek us out,
said gallery director John Addison.
Across Canyon Road, the signs for The Compound Restaurant are clear, but it takes
some hunting to find Bellas Artes gallery. Followthe signs to The Compound to the lone
gallery on this side road where paper, porcelain and textile extend common definitions to
become museum-quality objects.
Between the 600 and 700 block, down an unpaved alley on the right, Canyon Alley
offers a mixture of styles and independence, including the outsider art of Kelly Moore.
Strolling down the gravel and dirt lane past Nordwall Art and newly ensconced David
Rothermel, a seeker might find painter/wordsmith Moore and photographer Kate
Livengood(say that aloud) or not. There are two signs at their adobe at the end of the
road: OPENand another more telling of why artists come to NewMexico.
There was a time when visitors were more likely to meet artists in their studios rather
colors | colores
Life is short, art long
wear comfortable shoes
Other pockets of wonder exist
Galleries appear on all the streets that border and extend outward from the Plaza,
including second-floor show spaces well worth the stairs or elevator rides. Travel slowly
from Paseo de Peralta up old Santa Fe Trail toward the junction of Old Pecos Trail so you
can discover small new venues.
The Santa Fe NewMexican prints news and schedules of cultural events every Friday
in its Pasatiempo magazine. Web resources include santafe.org and SantaFe.com.
Friday mornings from 8 to 8:30 a.m., alternative radio station KSFR-FM 101.1 hosts Mary
Charlotte Domandi and local guests who offer a rundown on weekly events, as well as
interviews with local and visiting arts personalities every Monday through Friday between
8 and 9 a.m.
KITTY LEAKEN
Aviewof Canyon Road
60 2012 Bienvenidos
than in the plethora of galleries that represent them. At the top of Canyon Road, in
The Stables at 821, small artist studios congregate in the former stables of the Vigil
family next to the Teahouse, which was originally home to the Vigils. The parking is
limited; imagination is not. Artist Ed Larsenlists available subjects on a sign: birds,
cowboys, fish, past life experiences.
OPTIONNO. 2 ATTENDTHE GALA
Fresh and contemporary, nine galleries stand in the newly organized GALADistrict
it stands for Galleries at Lincoln Avenue between the Plaza and West Marcy Street.
At the Plaza end of Lincoln, the gorgeous NewMexico History Museumhouses the
Spiegelberg gallery store specializing in living NewMexican artisans.
Galleries in the district include Allan Houser, David Richard Contemporary,
Legends Santa Fe, Niman Fine Art, Pippin Contemporary, Windsor Betts, One
Artist Road Fine Art and Evoke Gallery. We look for provocative and compelling
contemporary art that is thought-provoking and not always comfortable, said Evoke
co-owner Kathrine Erickson. Afewdoors away, Blue Rain Gallery offers a decidedly
current counterpoint, focusing primarily on Native American and/or NewMexican
artists working in pottery, bronzes, paintings, jewelry and glass.
OPTIONNO. 3 VISIT THE PALACE
Within walking distance of GALA, ancient meets modern at the intersection of
the West Palace Arts District and the Palace of the Governors, where Indian
artists set out their own beautifully crafted jewelry and pottery under the portal.
The West Palace Arts District includes the NewMexico Museumof Art as well
as the Museumof NewMexico Foundation, the Georgia OKeeffe Museum
and LewAllen, Manitou, Wadle and Peterson-Cody galleries. Patina Gallery
owner/artists Allison and Ivan Barnett present fine craft, primarily 21st century
jewelers whose nontraditional jewelry dances between the lines of wearable art and
sculpture. I get turned on by unique and fabulous color, texture, surface and quality
of workmanship. I look for unusual juxtapositions, Allison Barnett said.
OPTIONNO. 4 HEAR THAT TRAINA COMIN
The Santa Fe Railyard District, opened in 2008, is a combination of steel, sparks
and anticipation. Home to modern international contemporary art venues, the
Railyard Arts District includes 10 galleries Charlotte Jackson Fine Art, Gebert
Contemporary, James Kelly Contemporary, Santa Fe Clay, Box, Jay Etkin,
WilliamSiegal, Tai, Zane Bennett and LewAllen galleries and SITE Santa Fe,
a renowned contemporary arts exhibition and programming space. Natural light fills
the two-story LewAllen Gallery (which has a companion location on West Palace
Avenue) that is specifically designed to showcase large contemporary pieces. Alot
of our artwork is up and coming, and so is this district, said gallery representative
Iris McLister. In addition to the formal galleries, open-air art booths appear on
weekends along the rails across the road fromthe indoor/outdoor Santa Fe Farmers
Market and Railyard Artisans Market.
Art walks and websites
The Canyon Road Art Walk is held on the fourth Friday of each month, when many
galleries host openings from5 to 7 p.m. (Not all galleries participate.) Check The
Santa Fe NewMexicans Friday arts, entertainment and culture magazine for listings
or visit www.canyonroadarts.com/ or www.visitcanyonroad.com.
The West Palace Arts District is bounded by the NewMexico Museumof Art,
the Santa Fe Community Convention Center, and the Georgia O'Keeffe Museum.
Member businesses and museums are located on West Palace Avenue, Johnson
Street and Marcy Street. The association hosts an art walk on the first Friday of each
month from
5 to 7:30 p.m. (www.westpalace.org)
The nine galleries at Lincoln Avenue (GALA) represent more than 500
contemporary artists. Located between West Palace Avenue (the Plaza) and West
Marcy Street, the association hosts an art walk between 5 and 7 p.m. on the first
Friday of every month. (www.sfgala.org)
The Railyard Arts District stretches out fromthe intersection of South Guadalupe
Street and Paseo de Peralta. The district hosts an art walk from5 to 7 p.m. on the last
Friday of every month.
3018-A Cielo Court
Santa Fe, NM 87507
505-473-3747
www.santafequilting.com
We Are
Here!
Cottons, Batiks, Orientals, Southwest Fabrics,
Silks, Classes & Sewing Supplies
Open 7 Days a Week: 10-5:30 Mon.-Sat., Thurs. 10-7 pm, Sun. 1-5 pm
Open 7 Days a Week: 10-5:30 Mon.-Sat., Thurs. 10-7 pm, Sun. 1-5 pm
471-2625 2101 Cerrillos Rd.
WHY SANTA FE READERS
SHOP AT BOOK MOUNTAIN
1. LARGE SELECTION: More than 30,000 different titles on our shelves.
2. LOW PRICES: We sell used paperbacks at 40% of the cover price.
3. EASY TO FIND: Books are categorized and alphabetized.
4. READ & RECYCLE: A generous exchange policy.
5. FUN: A friendly and helpful staff.
2012 Bienvenidos 61
SUMMER 2011 THANKYOUS
Cornerstones Community Partnerships and
St. Michaels High School thanks these very
generous donors and volunteers for their support on our
San Miguel Chapel Preservation Project 2011
Alysia Abbott Rachel Adler Heath Bailey Lea Barsocchini Austin Basham
David Blackman Kathleen Blanch Leslie Carpenter Josh Carrasco Paul Chattey
Robin Chavez Fabian Chavez III Bruce Chemel Santo Coppola Ashley Crossin
Lynn Daniel Marty Davenport Sue Ann DeGarbo Larry and Angie Delgado
Rodrigo Delgado Shannon Dennison William Dodge Sue Eininger Andi Espinoza
Anna Farner Janet Fowler John Fox William Garcia Anne Goler Sam Govea Anastasia Gumbinez
Charles Haecker Ted Harsha Clif Hickey Robert Himmerich y Valencia Eva Valencia de Himmerich
David Holtkamp Jake Ivey Cameron Jackson Mark Johnson Carola Kieve Luke Kuzava Ryan Lamb
Chester Liebs Alex Longacre Carrie Mardorf Renee Martinez Solomon Martinez Exilda Martinez
Candace McKinley Charles McKinley Lauren Meyer Rachel Miller-Howard Joel Miyamonto Max Myers
Elizabeth Oster Daniel Ortega Kendra Owenby Lievre Oxa Mollie Parsons William Powell William Rekas
Michael Rekas Mary Ann Rekas Elliot Richman Greg Ridgley Serafna Ridgley Debra Royall Alex Saiz
Virginia Salazar-Halfmoon Irvin Sandoval Esteban Segura Lawrence Sena Cory Serna Daniel Sexton
Samantha Sexton Michelle Schuster J.T. Stark Marsha Sullivan Sergi Talamantes Fenton and Judy Talbott
Alysha Trujillo Raymond Trujillo Adrianna VanderBorgh Andrew Veech Tim Vigil David Vlaming
Bradley Wheaton Daniel Wlupp Susan Woodburn Students and Staf from St. Michaels High School
Students and Staf fromArchbishop Rummel High School in NewOrleans Students and Staf fromBosque School in Albuquerque
Students from College of Art and Design: Natalie Abel Madeline Bentley Dylan Bucher Sohl Jorge DeAvila Bruno DePaschoal
Ebony Dubose Jacey Ellis Sam Funk Tales Griego de Aguliar Christine Guevera Marcelino Gutierrez Elizabeth Hasbun Santa Fe Land Use Department: Austin Alt
John Armijo Wendy Blackwell Yolanda Cortez Darcy Griego Grace Griego Jon Griego Marylynn Griego David Leyba Matthew OReilly Adrian Ortiz
Victor Ortiz Juliana Rivera Mike Rivera Richard Trujillo Aaron Vigil Edward Vigil John Vigil Donna Wyrant R.B. Zaxus
Students from the Breadloaf School of English Anonymous Barker Welfare Foundation Eugene V. and Clare E. Taw Charitable Trust
Tornburg Investment Management State of New Mexico City of Santa Fe
AND ANNOUNCING OUR CALL FOR
SUMMER 2012 VOLUNTEERS
COME HELP US FINISHTHE LAST WALL
Weve done the north, east, west wallscome join in the
community efort to preserve a Santa Fe treasure.
To volunteer call Cornerstones Community Partnerships
505-982-9521
62 2012 Bienvenidos
colores | colors
STORY BY GABE GOMEZ
PHOTOS BY KERRY SHERCK
Santa Fe is a daytime city. Lets face it; we are not well known for
our nightlife. Even the Santa Fe Opera, which for years began its
performances at 9 p.m., has shifted to earlier curtain times this season in
response to patron requests.
But to be fair, there are many options for those who prefer the after-dinner evening out.
Indeed, our spectacular sunsets dont necessarily herald the conclusion to our day but,
rather, the beginning of another part of Santa Fe life that you wont necessarily find in a
guidebook such as a substantial music scene.
Its probably downright inevitable that the emotional undercurrent of Santa Fes allure
includes an appropriate soundtrack provided by a local musician. Predictably, the time
between Memorial Day and Labor Day is a busy time for many local musicians. Live
music pops up in unexpected places, and the mainstays in the local nightlife provide a
wider variety of acts.
Vanessie Santa Fe, for example, has recently succeeded in reinventing itself and
revitalizing the live music scene with its ambitious newmusic calendar. Santa Fe
institution Evangelos Cocktail Lounge offers two stages. The upstairs stage boasts one
of the citys most sophisticated sound systems, where youll hear a variety of musical
acts, while The Underground at Evangelos hosts some of the best local DJs and live
music of all stripes.
The Rouge Cat nightclub offers all kinds of late-night revelry most nights of the
week, and one would be remiss not to mention El Farol Restaurant and Cantina and the
Love the nightlife?
If you know where to look, you can find live music in Santa Fe all year round
Members of Le Chat Lunatique fromleft, Muni Kulasinghe on violin, Fernando Garavito on drums, John Sandlin on guitar, and Jared Putnamon bass play at the Second
Street Brewery (original location) on a Friday night. The group is fromAlbuquerque and describes its sound as filthy, mangy jazz.
2012 Bienvenidos 63
Cowgirl BBQfor their steady contributions to Santa Fes
nightlife options.
There are many other outstanding places in Santa
Fe that host live music or DJs but suppose you are on
the hunt for something different. Maybe youre the kind
of traveler and music lover who appreciates the local
atmosphere as much as the amplified sound that fills a
room. And as much as you love saying Christmas in
response to your chile options, perhaps there is a venue
beyond the well-worn path that reminds you why this
place is truly special.
Homegrowngigs
You can tell a lot about a town by the beer it brews.
Although it may not be the oldest microbrewery in Santa
Fe, Second Street Brewery produces some of the most
complex and well-balanced flavor profiles in town. In this,
it speaks to Santa Fes sophisticated foodie palate without
forgetting that nothing beats a cold brewat the end of a
long day. With two locations the original Oldery on
Second Street and the Newery in the Santa Fe Railyard
Second Street Brewery is the restaurant equivalent of
boots and blue jeans; sure its casual, but around here that
passes as unassuming refinement.
And like the beer it brews, the live music at Second
Street Brewery on Friday and Saturday evenings between
6 and 9 p.m. is not the usual fare. Where the objective of
most bars live entertainment is to drawin the thirsty
throngs for the well drinks and jalapeo popper specials
sadly obscuring the talent of musicians Second
Street Brewery is the place where one can actually
appreciate the nuance of musicianship, the poignancy of
singer-songwriters, and the low-end rump shake if the
feeling happens to arise. Add the outdoor seating areas
and the ample sunshine that usually lead to stunning
sunsets, and theres not a lot missing for a great time out.
Bluegrass, Americana, and roots rock singer-
songwriters like Joe West and duos like Todd and the
Fox performon occasion, with the occasional funk
outfit like Pollo Frito or the Gypsy swing of Le Chat
Lunatique rounding out a panoramic sampling of local
and Albuquerque-based bands. On Tuesday nights at
the Railyard location, the open mic night hosted by Case
Tanner brings out the local hidden talent. Throughout
the summer, acts such as the Bo Deans and Fun perform
at the Heath Concerts free Railyard Community Concert
Series, where the brewery is among the business sponsors
and provides the suds for the occasion.
Tiny Dancer
If you have ever visited Santa Fe and wandered into Tinys
Restaurant on Early Street, chances are good that it still
looks exactly as you remember it. The ceramic decanters,
absence of natural light and the artwork depicting what
seemto be images of a brothel are still there and will
probably be forever. Despite its proximity to the Plaza and
the up-and-coming Railyard District, Tinys manages to
maintain its anonymity.
Its tough to call anyplace in Santa Fe a locals
hangout, considering that many of the people who live
here are probably fromsomewhere else. But its safe to say
that Tinys is the dye in the fabric of Santa Fe.
While the faux adobe, teal coyote lamps and needless
variations of Frito Pie rule the center of town, Tinys is
your grandmother's rec roomthe place you destroyed
on Sunday afternoons with your cousins and where you
played spin the bottle and had Led Zeppelin listening
parties. In other words, its comfortable and without
pretense.
Imagine your parents, in their 70s, going out on a
dinner-and-dancing date this is the place. Say you
want some outstanding chile rellenos, a cold brewand
to be entertained by a karaoke singer mutilating Steve
Millers The Joker this is the place. Need to two-step to
some original country music on a Thursday night? This
is the place.
During the summer months most music venues,
restaurants and bars bulk up their music offerings. Tinys
where you can find music most nights of the week
is somewhat impervious to the whims of the tourist
foot traffic. Tuesdays are open mic nights for aspiring
musicians; Wednesday nights offer jazz. Thursday, one
of its most popular nights, features Americana bands like
the Broomdust Caravan, while Friday brings in the rock
n roll crowd. The aforementioned karaoke is an audience
favorite on Saturdays.
SECOND STREET BREWERY
Original location
1814 Second St.
505-982-3030
Railyard
1607 Paseo De Peralta
505-989-3278
TINYS RESTAURANT AND LOUNGE
1005 St. Francis Drive
505-983-9817
EL FAROL RESTAURANT AND CANTINA
808 Canyon Road
505-983-9912
EVANGELOS COCKTAIL LOUNGE
AND THE UNDERGROUND
200 W. San Francisco St.
505-982-9014
ROUGE CAT
101 W. Marcy Ave.
505-983-6603
THE COWGIRL BBQ
319 S. Guadalupe St.
505-982-2565
VANESSIE SANTA FE
427 W. Water St.
505-982-9966
IF YOU GO
Acouple dances to the tunes of Broomdust Caravan at Tinys Restaurant &Lounge. Members of Broomdust Caravan fromleft, Karina Wilson on violin, Felecia Ford on
vocals, and Johny Broomdust on bass performat Tinys Restaurant &Lounge.
64 2012 Bienvenidos
SANBUSCO
Where the locals shop and dine...
Santa FeS FineSt Specialty Mall
In the heart of the Historic Railyard District
500 Montezuma avenue , Santa Fe
505.989.9390 www.sanbusco.com FREE WIFI Free Parking
2012 Bienvenidos 65
66 2012 Bienvenidos
2012 Bienvenidos 67
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68 2012 Bienvenidos
STORY AND PHOTOS BY KARL F. MOFFATT
NewMexicos Santa Fe Trail is steeped in
history and adventure, and visitors to the
City Different can enjoy some of the best the
trail has to offer by taking a day trip to nearby
attractions.
The road to Fort Union, just a couple of hours east of
Santa Fe, is an enjoyable drive with a great history and
a bonus for visitors: Your admission receipt will also get
you into Pecos National Historical Park another fine
day trip out of Santa Fe.
At one time the Southwests largest military
installation and supply depot, Fort Union contained one
of the best hospitals in the West, an ammo depot, military
prison, several warehouses, mechanics shops, corrals
and troop quarters. It also served as a vital stopping point
on the Santa Fe Trail for merchants and other travelers
seeking safety and relief fromthe open road. Nowit
stands eerily silent, its remaining chimneys and walls
rising above the grasslands like an adobe Stonehenge.
During the eight-mile trip to the fort after you exit
Interstate 25 North, youll be able to see remnants of the
deep ruts left by long processions of wagon trains that
helped settle the West back in the 1800s. Today herds of
antelope graze those same plains, and real cowboys work
cattle in the fields.
Immersed in a sea of grass that extends for miles,
the valley in which the fort sits is flanked on both sides
by pion-, juniper- and ponderosa-covered hills. Its a
picturesque and reverent place.
There are stone walkways and foundations still laid out
in military precision and the remnants of brick chimneys
standing as silent sentinels over the old forts parade
grounds. Walking the sprawling ruins provides a leisurely
hike and gives visitors a feel for the size and scope of
the garrison; the many signs posted about the grounds
help you interpret what you see. Folks with active
imaginations might even hear the creak and groan of
wagon wheels and the crack of a drovers whip or detect
the musky odor of leather and horses upon the wind.
Hungry for more?
On your way back to Santa Fe, stop for an authentic
New Mexican meal at the Spic and Span restaurant in
historic Las Vegas. Take an after-dinner cruise around
town and enjoy some of the best-preserved Victorian
architecture in the state. Visitors can also stop by the
railroad depot for a look at the once-grand Harvey
Hotel still standing there.
Fort Unionis aghost of its former
Roads
less taken
aire libre | fresh air
Fort Union National Monument is located
about 90 miles northeast of Santa Fe off I-25
North. Take Exit 366 at N.M. 161 just after
Watrous and followthe signs.
For more information, visit
www.nps.gov/foun/index.htm.
t of its former self
IF YOU GO
NOWIT STANDS EERILY
SILENT, ITS REMAINING
CHIMNEYS ANDWALLS
RISINGABOVE THE
GRASSLANDS LIKE AN
ADOBE STONEHENGE.
2012 Bienvenidos 69
70 2012 Bienvenidos
STORY AND PHOTOS BY KARL F. MOFFATT
NewMexicos Spanish heritage is evident in
the little villages and settlements found along
the old Santa Fe Trail, and a leisurely drive
out to Villanueva State Park is a great way
to experience the traditional rural lifestyle
that has served as the backbone of the local
Hispano culture for so long.
Just 60 miles east of Santa Fe, off Interstate 25 North,
tidy little Villanueva State Park is tucked away in a
picturesque valley. Because the Pecos River flows through
it, the park is a great midweek destination for a hike, to
picnic or to fish.
Villanueva State Parks visitor center sports a classic
Southwest-style adobe-colored, stucco exterior with a
small cupola atop the metal roof; youll find brochures,
pamphlets and small informative displays inside. The
park features good campsites some nestled among
shade trees by the river, more on top of a hill overlooking
the valley. Theres a bathhouse with showers and a
modern playground for kids.
Although swimming and wading are favorite activities
during the hot summer months, the river is regularly
stocked with trout for good fishing fromfall through
spring.
Crossing the attractive iron bridge that spans the river,
youll find a 2.5-mile loop trail that heads up to the ravine
overlooking the campground and river below. The views
fromatop the mesa are spectacular and worth the hike.
The park was created fromland donated by members
of the local Spanish land grant, many of whomlived in
the nearby village of Villanueva, so its a popular weekend
destination for locals.
Hungryfor more?
Stop in the village of Villanueva, where youll find a
beautiful church constructed in 1830 of local rock and
a classic, small-town mercantile. You may also want to
drive to the top of the hill overlooking the village to see
the grotto that contains santos and other religious items.
On the drive home, visitors should consider stopping
for an exceptional meal at La Risa Caf in Ribera, where
breakfast is available all day and beer and wine can be
ordered with a meal on the patio.
FromSanta Fe take I-25 North toward Las Vegas.
Get off at Exit 323 and followN.M. 3 to the
outskirts of the village of Villanueva. Note the
sign at the intersection with County Road B 28
A, which leads down to Villanueva State Park.
For more information, visit
www.emnrd.state.nm.us/prd/villanueva.htm.
VillanuevaState Park
agreat place tohike, picnic or fish
IF YOU GO
aire libre | fresh air
2012 Bienvenidos 71
72 2012 Bienvenidos
STORY AND PHOTOS BY KARL F. MOFFATT
The interpretive display at the Pecos National
Historical Park Museum35 miles east of Santa
Fe begins with the story of the Puebloans who
called the area home long before the Spanish
arrived. On exhibition are pots, tools and other
artifacts that illustrate the lifestyle of the
Pecos Pueblo Indians when they lived in this
valley located on the edge of the Great Plains.
At its height in the 1400s, the pueblo boasted
700 rooms and housed about 2,000 Indians. It
served as a regional trading center and drew
nomadic Plains Indians to its doorsteps to
trade goods and services.
Adiorama in a glass case recreates the four-story tall
adobe pueblo featuring latillas and covered portals a
design influence that can still be seen today in some
downtown Santa Fe buildings.
Large, colorful panels complement brief blocks of text
that spell out in greater detail the series of historical
events instrumental in shaping both the parks and
the states history especially the arrival of Spanish
conquistadors, whose settlements throughout the area
eventually led to the Indians abandonment of the pueblo.
ASpanish mission built next to the Indian pueblo
was destroyed during a widespread Indian uprising in
1680 that drove the Spanish out of NewMexico. It was
rebuilt after the Spanish returned some 12 years later.
Meanwhile, the fewremaining Puebloans had moved on
to a more hospitable location Jemez Pueblo outside of
Albuquerque where many of their descendants can still
be found.
The ruins of the Spanish mission and excavated
remains of the Indian pueblo may be the most dominant
features of the park today, but the visitor center might be
its best attraction.
Museumdisplays further document the role the Santa
Fe Trail played in bringing Anglo settlers to the area
in search of trade with the local Spanish and Indian
populations. There is a good accounting of one of the
pivotal battles of the Civil War often referred to as
the Gettysburg of the West during which Union and
Confederate forces clashed over much of the same ground
the park occupies today.
The center also pays homage to the parks primary
Small is educational
The little museumat Pecos National Historical Park offers a well-designed and easily absorbed
aire libre | fresh air
2012 Bienvenidos 73
account of the parks and the states fascinating history
benefactors, Texas oilman and cattle rancher E.E.
Buddy Fogelson and his wife, actress Greer Garson.
The couple donated most of the money and many of the
exhibits to build and equip the visitor center and left their
nearby Forked Lightning Ranch headquarters and land to
the park, too.
The Fogelsons involvement in the park is typical of an
era during which Santa Fe became a playground for the
rich and famous, who reveled in its earthy ambiance and
Southwest art and culture. A1980s-era short filmabout
the park narrated by Garson, which features early flyover
cinematography, can be viewed in the attached Kiva
Auditoriuminside the center.
The visitor center building itself is an excellent example
of classic southwestern construction incorporating
stucco, carved wooden beams, adobes, vigas and latillas,
as well as tinwork all set amid a stunning backdrop of
forested mountains framed by an expansive sky. Its shop
features a great selection of park and Southwest-related
books, gifts and mementos.
Another interesting feature of the park is the limited
fishing programon a three-mile segment of the Pecos
River that wends its way through the grounds. There are
also self-guided tours of the Civil War battlefields for
those seeking a hike.
Take I-25 North out of Santa Fe toward Las
Vegas and get off at the Pecos/Glorieta Exit
299 at N.M. 50. Drive into town and make a
right at the stop sign at the intersection of
N.M. 63. Followfor a couple of miles to the
visitor center entrance.
For more information, visit www.nps.gov/
peco/index.htmor call the visitor center at
505-757-7241.
IF YOU GO
A1980S-ERASHORT FILM
ABOUT THE PARKNARRATED
BYGREERGARSON, WHICH
FEATURES EARLYFLYOVER
CINEMATOGRAPHY, CANBE
VIEWEDINTHE ATTACHEDKIVA
AUDITORIUMINSIDE THE CENTER.
74 2012 Bienvenidos
2012 Bienvenidos 75
Serious
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1O98
1
/ 2 S. ST FRANCI S DR. @ PEN RD. MON SAT 1O 5 982. 2592
FOLK ART TEXTILES CDS BOOKS JEWELRY
WITH A GLOBAL PERSPECTIVE
76 2012 Bienvenidos
BY ARIN MCKENNA
First and foremost, last summers devastating
Las Conchas Fire did not close Santa Clara
Pueblo. Although the fire dealt the pueblo a
heavy blow, destroying more than 16,600 acres
(80 percent) of its forested lands and impacting
95 percent of its watershed, Santa Claras
village and enterprises are largely unaffected.
The Puye Cliff Dwellings a national historical landmark
are the ancestral homes of the Santa Claran people,
occupied fromapproximately 1200 until the Pueblo
Revolt of 1680. The settlement housed nearly 1,200
people, the largest on the Pajarito Plateau.
Tribal members lead guided tours of the cliff dwellings.
Learning fromtheir descendents howancestral people
lived is excellent preparation for visitors who want to
see other ancestral Puebloan (often mistakenly called
Anasazi) ruins, including nearby Bandelier National
Monument.
It is important that Santa Clara people are able to
educate others about the significance of our ancestral
dwellings, said Puye operations manager Lucinda
Williams. We can enhance a visitors experience
with accurate information. Were ambassadors for our
community. Were passionate about our culture, were
passionate about our traditions and dances, and were
passionate about our ancestral ruins.
The guides training ranges fromCPRand first aid to
hearing oral histories fromtribal elders. Many elders
remember their parents selling pottery at the Harvey
House bed and breakfast at the base of the cliff dwellings.
The Harvey House dating to the 1920s nowserves
as an interpretive center and gift shop. On summer
weekends Santa Claran people demonstrate or sell their
art there.
According to Williams, providing visitors with a touch
of culture is the focus of all the pueblos enterprises.
That means we are always respectful of our guests,
inviting themin, Williams said. Warmth, friendship
and hospitality are cultural values tribal members hope
to convey.
Fromancient cliff dwellings
toworld-class golf
Santa Clara Pueblos enterprises cover broad spectrum
ARIN MCKENNA
2012 Bienvenidos 77
Puye reopened in 2008, after an eight-year closure in the
aftermath of the Cerro Grande Fire. Before the closure,
visitors were allowed to wander freely through the
dwellings, something many people miss. But the lack of
restrictions led to looted artifacts and damage ranging
fromerosion to graffiti.
Every person makes an impact on the land. Thats been
one of the hardest things to teach people, Williams said.
We want this for the next 100 generations, so we need
to preserve this nowfor the future of our community. We
decided upon tours to minimize the impact and provide a
more meaningful experience for people.
Galleries emphasize personal touch
The Santa Clara people left the cliff dwellings for fertile
ground by the Ro Grande more than three centuries ago.
Santa Clara village is open to visitors, but do not expect a
tourist haven in this quiet village. Afewtribal members
still occupy homes in the village, but most live in new
housing developments on Pueblo lands. The church and
cemetery are off-limits to visitors.
An open sign indicates someone selling pottery from
his or her home. Astop at one of those or at two artist-
owned galleries might inspire a treasured memory.
Merrock Gallery, owned by Paul and Rosalda Speckled
Rock, carries pottery by Paul and other Native artists,
American Indian jewelry and Rosaldas paintings. The
gallery occupies the house Pauls grandmother lived in
and serves as the artists studio.
This is our retirement, Paul said. This is like our
garden or our little fishing place.
Paul always has a table set up where he can
demonstrate, with the help of photographs, how
traditional pottery is hand coiled and fired. He may
tell stories of learning the art fromhis grandmother
or explain the pottery designs. This type of personal
interaction is rarely found at busier pueblos.
But it also is available at Naranjos Pottery, located in
Sammy Naranjo and Melony Gutierrezs home. Sammy
learned pottery making fromhis mother Flora when he
was 12 years old and is known for his two-toned sgraffito
(etched) pottery.
Melony is one of the fewartists still practicing red
willowbasketry. She also learned pottery making from
fresh air | aire libre
Visitors often arrive in New Mexico with Hollywood
images of American Indians in mind. They may
visit the pueblos expecting either a theme park
experience of multistoried pueblos (remembered
from grade school lessons) or Plains Indians wearing
feathered headdresses and living in tepees.
Many are disappointed to find that most Puebloan
villages are very similar to any other Northern New
Mexico village, comprising single-family adobe
homes with residents engaged in the same activities
their contemporaries engage in elsewhere. When
they see me in my Nike shirt and Nike shoes, they
sometimes ask if Im an Indian, said artist Melony
Gutierrez of Santa Clara Pueblo.
The villages are usually quiet, with few people
about, because most pueblo members live in
contemporary homes away from the older village and
work at day jobs. Most villages have a few open
signs indicating families selling pottery or other
artwork from their homes and maybe a family-owned
gallery or two.
Those wanting to see more traditional Puebloan
structures should visit Taos or Acoma. Taos has two
multistoried pueblos inhabited for more than 1,000
years. Acomas multistory structures are smaller, due
to the pueblos perch on a mesa top, but they also
hold centuries of history.
Taos and Acoma have also embraced tourism.
Acoma offers only guided tours of the ancient
pueblo, with pueblo members selling pottery along
the tour route. Visitors at Taos may wander the
village on their own or enrich their experience with a
guided tour, and many Taos people have established
galleries in their ancestral homes.
But visiting a sleepier Puebloan village may reap
other rewards. Artists selling from their homes
may tell stories of learning pottery making from a
grandmother or an aunt. Galleries are less crowded,
and the artists who own them are often generous
with their time and willing to educate visitors about
the ancient art of pottery making.
Santa Clara and Picuris pueblos in some ways
exemplify contemporary Puebloan life. Both
offer experiences ranging from quiet villages to
contemporary hotels, providing opportunities to
learn more about Puebloan people and the world
they inhabit today.
Those planning to purchase pottery or artwork
at the pueblos are advised to carry cash. Galleries
usually accept credit cards, but individual artists
often do not.
Many pueblos are offering other venues for
interacting with Puebloan people and aesthetics
modern enterprises ranging from hotels to golf
courses.
Resort/casinos such as Sandia Resort & Casino
or Santa Ana Pueblos Hyatt Regency Tamaya
Resort and Spa offer luxurious accommodations
with a contemporary Puebloan aesthetic. Buffalo
Thunder Resort & Casino is filled with museum-
quality contemporary American Indian art. Puebloan
golf courses are often masterpieces of landscape
architecture. Casinos are often worth visiting for
their interior design and architecture.
TODAYS PUEBLOS MERGE ANCIENT TRADITIONS
WITHCONTEMPORARY LIFESTYLES
COURTESY
Black Mesa Golf Club
78 2012 Bienvenidos
Sammy and specializes in turtles and other animal
figurines, a tribute to the pottery style of her grandparents
Esquipula and Joseph Gutierrez. She is currently
stretching the boundaries of both art forms by integrating
basketry with pottery.
The couple also use photographs to explain the art of
pottery making. Melony may describe howwonderful
the pueblo smells when all the hornos (adobe ovens) are
filled with bread and pies before feast day or when she is
passing down traditions to younger generations. We get
a little break fromworking and get to speak with people,
she said. Thats the delight of it.
Hotel, golf course anewfocus
The Santa Clara Development Corporation manages
several tribal enterprises.
The Santa Claran Hotels Native aesthetic and its
central location are selling points for those exploring
Northern NewMexico. The lobbys whitewashed walls
are set off by viga (log beam) and latilla (wood slat)
ceilings, hand-wrought woodwork, hand-woven rugs
and tin wall sconces created by local artists. Historic
photographs of the pueblo adorn the walls, along with the
pottery for which the pueblo is famous. Three restaurants
are all located off the adjoining casino. The pueblo also
owns the Big Rock Bowling Center in the same complex.
The pueblo is building strong partnerships for
economic development and tourism. One example of
this is a partnership among the hotel, the Albuquerque
International Balloon Fiesta and six Northern New
Mexico wineries to host a festival May 19-20.
According to principal Eddie Peck, Black Mesa Golf
Club is listed among the top 100 golf courses on all the
major ratings panels. Links magazine called it one of the
more spectacular courses anywhere and named it one of
18 major-worthy public courses. Improud that we have
a world-class golf course here in NewMexico, Peck said.
It also offers one of the best values for a course of this
quality.
Robert Baxter Spanndesigned the course, which is
integrated into the natural contours of the land. Its a
challenging course but one of the best there is. I dont think
anyone is disappointed once they come out, Peck said.
RULES OF ETIQUETTE FOR PUEBLO VISITATION
Visiting pueblos or attending feast day dances are remarkable opportunities to experience another culture
and religion. Showing respect for the Pueblo regulations and etiquette allows you to have a rich and rewarding
experience without mishap.
Sketching, recording and any other means of audio or visual reproduction are prohibited at most pueblos,
although most do allowphotography with the purchase of a camera permit. Permits usually cost $5 to $15
and may be purchased at tribal offices or visitor centers. (Note: At many pueblos, camera permits may only be
purchased at tribal offices Monday through Friday.) Never photograph an individual or private property without
asking permission. Violating pueblo regulations concerning photography this includes cell phone cameras
could result in the confiscation of your camera by tribal police.
Pueblos are not amusement parks or living history museums but residential communities. Behave as you would
want others to behave if they were visiting your community.
Enter a pueblo home as you would any other by invitation only.
Do not climb ladders or climb on walls and other structures. Structures may be several hundred years old and
easily damaged. Do not pick up or remove any artifacts or objects.
Kivas and cemeteries are off-limits to non-Puebloan people. Churches may also be off-limits and are definitely
closed to non-Pueblo people if surrounded by a cemetery. If you are unsure whether you may enter a structure or
area, obtain permission first.
Alcohol, weapons and drugs are not allowed in the pueblos.
Do not bring dogs to the pueblos.
RULES OF ETIQUETTE DURING TRADITIONAL DANCES
Pueblo dances are religious ceremonies, not performances. Observe themas you would a church service, with
respect and quiet attention. Do not interrupt non-dance participants by pushing in front of them, blocking their
view, asking questions or visiting with friends.
Most pueblos do not allowphotography on feast days.
Do not conduct business or socialize loudly. Many pueblo members only have a chance to see certain dances
once a year and may have traveled many miles to participate.
Cell phones should be turned off and may be confiscated if used during a ceremony.
Plazas have been blessed for the dances and are considered holy space. Do not walk across a plaza even if the
dancing has stopped: Keep to the edges.
Refrain fromtalking to the dancers. Do not approach dancers as they are entering, leaving or resting near the
kivas.
Applause after dances is not appropriate.
The dances start and end at their own pace. Be patient.
If you are fortunate enough to receive an invitation to a feast day meal, there are some simple guidelines. If the
table is full, join those waiting in the living roomuntil everyone who arrived before you has had a chance to be
served. Do not linger at the table. It is polite to take desserts such as fruit pies as you leave so that others can be
seated. Thank your host, but a payment or tip is not appropriate.
COURTESY
Santa Claran Hotel
ARIN MCKENNA
The Puye Cliff Dwellings
2012 Bienvenidos 79
BY ARIN MCKENNA
Picuris means the people who paint, and
one of the best ways to gain an appreciation
of Picuris Pueblo is to first visit the gift shop
at the Hotel Santa Fe to see images of village
life painted by Picuris Governor Gerald Nailor
(NewDeer).
Although it holds the usual sundries and gift items, the
gift shop is more a miniature art gallery featuring Native
artists. Nailor himself is often there on weekends.
Nailor is the son of noted Din (Navajo) artist Gerald
Nailor, Sr. His mother, Santana, was Picuris.
Nailors inspiration derives frommemories of growing
up at Picuris and fromstories passed down through his
family and village elders. His images evoke Picuris in the
early decades of the last century: people gathered around
a tractor-powered threshing machine, a woman and child
(his mother and grandmother) leading a burro down a
country road, villagers working together on the annual
spring cleaning of the acequia (irrigation ditch).
Most of the art that I do is just reliving the areas that
are forgotten. Like the threshing machine the last time
they did this was probably the early 60s, Nailor said. I
see that great change within Picuris, howthe community
was much more intertwined, much more cohesive. They
were farming, working the fields together, plastering the
homes together and doing things communally. They still
kept some of the traditions, because most of the elders
were still there that knewthat road of life.
World War II disrupted the continuity, when many
soldiers returned fromwar addicted to alcohol.
In the 50s it was very harsh, but slowly we began to
limp back to where, even if the farming was left behind,
there was still that communal togetherness, but a little bit
more distant, Nailor said. Most people born with those
traditional concepts, inherited through the dances and
the songs and the land, have a sense of survival. When
they left the fields, I think those first contacts with self-
being were through dancing.
The pueblos decline had begun centuries earlier with
the arrival of the Spanish and the diseases they carried.
Don Juan de Oate, who established the first Spanish
settlement in NewMexico in 1598, called it Gran Pueblo
de los Picuris. The pueblo was several stories high and
held 2,000 to 3,000 inhabitants. It was a center of trade
between the Plains Indians and the Puebloan people of
the Ro Grande Valley.
The Picuris Pueblo population nowis less than 200.
Economic development, nogaming
Nailor has been on the tribal council for more than 30
years and served as governor for more than 15 terms. He
has labored not only to sustain and revive traditional
activities and values but also to introduce innovations he
feels will benefit the tribe. It was Nailor who convinced
the Picuris council to build the Hotel Santa Fe.
At an economic-development workshop for tribal
leaders, Nailor learned that investors wanted to partner
with a pueblo to build a hotel, with the help of the United
States Department of Agricultures guaranteed loan
programfor rural economic development.
Nailor realized this could help the tribe financially
without resorting to gaming. Another concept had to be
formed so the pueblo would be supported futuristically,
Nailor said. We had heard about the many vices of
gaming when we were growing up, because the concept
through the traditional thought was to give, not to take.
I took the package to Picuris, and I was almost shouted
off the podium. Even a $10 loan is very big for them, and
you talk about an eleven-and-a-half-million-dollar loan,
and its devastating. The biggest fear was that tribal lands
would be lost if the hotel failed.
Eventually Nailor prevailed, and the hotel opened
in 1990. We had a lot of input on the grounds, the
architecture, the plants, and what was needed here,
Nailor said. Nailor also advocated for amenities such as a
swimming pool and the Amaya restaurant, rather than a
buffet. The restaurant has earned renown for its blending
of indigenous and nonindigenous ingredients.
When the hotel opened, training and shuttle service
to work was provided for Picuris members. Nailor
himself between terms as governor decided to learn
kitchen operations fromthe ground up. He started as a
dishwasher, worked his way up to prep cook and was the
hotels first breakfast chef.
Income fromthe hotel helps support tribal
administration, and the pueblo is slowly redeveloping.
Pueblo members nowenjoy a gym, fishing lakes and a
disc golf course.
Farming and traditional foods are being reintroduced.
Last year the tribe planted one field of traditional corn,
beans, squash and pumpkins and four fields of hay for its
bison herd. This year the tribe will plant five fields with
vegetables and five with hay. Tribal elders teach young
people about traditions such as wild food sources as they
work the land.
The pueblo has been proactive in protecting its
resources, expelling two mining companies fromtheir
traditional homelands and resolving water-rights issues
by working cooperatively with communities along the
Picuris provides contrast
The pueblos quiet village and elegant hotel are worlds apart
Those planning to visit Picuris Pueblo should realize
it is not a destination in itself. It has no galleries or
artists selling from their homes and nothing to cater
to tourism. But driving through the pueblo while on
the High Road to Taos (the pueblo has a northern
and southern entrance on New Mexico 75) may give
a sense of pueblo life today.
Spending the morning in Chimay (famous for
the Santuario de Chimay, weaving galleries and
the Rancho de Chimay restaurant), then following
the High Road as far as Picuris before heading
south through Dixon to visit some Northern New
Mexico wineries is another good option.
The mission church of San Lorenzo is a focal
point of the village. The pueblo completely rebuilt
the adobe church after an attempt to preserve
it by plastering with cement caused the adobe
infrastructure to collapse. The church is only open
for services, but its adobe walls are a testament to
the community's cooperative efforts to preserve
something of value.
Viewing the bison herd from the road is another
highlight. Puebloan people used to travel to the
plains to hunt buffalo, and many tribes have
established herds to provide a healthy meat source
for their people. Buffalo meat is also for sale at the
smoke shop on the northern boundary.
To see Picuris at its best, attend the San Lorenzo
Feast Day on August 10. Religious dances take
place throughout the day, and Native artists will be
selling their wares.
watershed.
Were working with all the communities communally,
rather than litigating, Nailor said. We dont want to
litigate our streambecause its not right. You dont litigate
life, and you dont weigh life and you dont buy life.
Nailor continues to focus on economic development.
He hopes to build a gas station/grocery on pueblo lands
so mountain residents do not have to drive to Taos or
Espaola for necessities.
Nailor, who is 70 years old, devotes significant energy
to Picuris future. Imtraining my youngsters to take
care of the land and protect the land and the water, he
said. So the younger generation is getting that sort of
insight, howimportant the water is, and the animal life,
the environment.
IF YOU GO
fresh air | aire libre
80 2012 Bienvenidos
Santa Clara Pueblo and Puye Cliff Dwellings
800-320-5008
http://puyecliffs.com
Summer schedule: Tours on the hour, 9 a.m.-5 p.m., seven days a week, weather
permitting. Closed June 13 and Aug. 12.
Cost: Harvey House: $7 adults, $5 seniors 55+ and children 14 and under; Cliffside or Mesa
Top Tours: $20 adults, $18 seniors 55+ and children 14 and under; Puye Adventure Tour
(combining all tour options) $35 adults, $33 seniors 55+ and children 14 and under.
Directions: Take U.S. 84/285 north to NM 502 west. North on NM 30 to Santa Clara
Canyon Road/Puye Cliffs Road. Purchase tickets at the Valero Gas Station/Puye Cliffs
Welcome Center before driving to the cliff dwellings.
Santa Clara Village
Comanche Dance: June 13
Feast Day: Aug. 12
505-753-7330
Camera permits: $5. Purchase at tribal offices Monday-Friday.
Directions: Take U.S. 84/285 north to NM 502 west. North on NM 30 to the pueblo
entrance.
Santa Claran Hotel & Casino
www.santaclaran.com
877-505-4949 (hotel), 866-244-7625 (casino)
Directions: Take U.S. 84/285 north to Espaola. The hotel, casino and Big Rock Bowling
Center are .03 miles into town on the left-hand side (460 Riverside Drive).
Black Mesa Golf Club
www.blackmesagolfclub.com
505-747-8946
Directions: Take U.S. 84/285 north for 22 miles. Turn west on NM 399 for 1.6 miles to
entrance.
Santa Clara Pueblo Fund
Santa Clara Pueblo has partnered with the New Mexico Community Foundation to set up
a fund supporting the pueblo's fire rehabilitation and flood mitigation efforts. Restoration
from the Las Conchas Fire is expected to take years. The fund currently has approximately
$200,000, and the needs are significantly greater than that. Contributions provide
leverage in attaining matching FEMA funding.
To donate, go to www.nmcf.org.
Merrock Gallery
505-753-2083. Open 10:30 a.m.-5 p.m. every day but Sunday.
Naranjo Gallery
505-929-2524 or 505-929-4813. Open daily, 10 a.m. to sundown.
Picuris Pueblo
575-587-2519
San Lorenzo Feast Day: Aug. 10
Camera permits: $15. Purchase at tribal offices Monday-Friday.
Directions on High Road to Taos: Take U.S. 84/285 north. Turn east on NM 503.
Continue 11 miles to Juan Medina Road, turn left. Turn right when Juan Medina Road ends
at NM 76. Continue on NM 76 when it turns left at Truchas. Turn left when NM 76 ends at
NM 75. The pueblo entrance is a quarter mile down on the right.
Directions fromthe LowRoad to Taos: Take U.S. 84/285 north to Espaola. From
Espaola take SR 68 north 25 miles to SR 75 (the Dixon turnoff). Continue through Dixon
north to the pueblo entrance on the left.
Hotel Santa Fe
www.hotelsantafe.com
982-1200 or 855-825-9876
For more information on all 19 pueblos, go to www.indianpueblo.org or
www.newmexico.org/nativeamerica.
IF YOU GO
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2012 Bienvenidos 81
Wheelwright Museum
of the american indian
704 camino Lejo, museum hill
Santa fe, nm 87505
www.wheelwright.org
mondaySaturday 105
Sunday 15
free admission
a certain fire: mary cabot Wheelwright collects the Southwest
through april 14, 2013
Projects are made possible in part by the City of Santa Fe Arts Commission
and the 1% Lodgers tax; new mexico arts, a division of the
department of cultural affairs and the national endowment for the arts;
the thaw charitable trust; and many private donors.
acoma manta, circa 1855
indian arts research center, iaft.122
Gift of mary cabot Wheelwright
School for advanced research, Santa fe
Photo by addison doty
82 2012 Bienvenidos
Wheelwright Museum of the American Indian
704 Camino Lejo . Museum Hill. Santa Fe, NM 87505
505.982.4636, ext. 110. www.wheelwright.org
Monday-Saturday 10-5 Sunday 1-5
Case Trading Post Museum Shop
Ofering the Unique in Traditonal and Contemporary Natve American Art
Visit us today or shop online at www.casetradingpost.com.
Photo by Addison Doty
2012 Bienvenidos 83
84 2012 Bienvenidos
aire libre | fresh air
BY BETH SURDUT
PHOTOS BY KERRY SCHERK
I was on one of those roads that rental car
policies wont cover. Id stopped not lost,
just not exactly sure where I was going. High
winds were tossing small birds around like
drunken baseballs. Then I sawthe bumper
sticker on a parked car: Something wonderful
is about to happen.
I raised an eyebrow.
My destination was the Madrid graveyard.
No one really lays claimto owning this high lonesome
piece of land. Hungry weather gnaws the wooden fence
poles still standing and chews the faded plastic flowers
on the graves.
Booker Weems, the titular owner of this small burial
ground that he estimates is 100 square feet within a 20-
acre parcel, said he bought it sometime around 1982.
The purchase was propelled by strange stuff that was
going on up there, according to Weems, who lives nearby.
But the ruckus wasnt caused by spirits of this former
ghost town. Men were fighting and shooting at each
other. I dont knowwhy. They was supposed to be friends.
Out of concern for his daughter, a small child riding her
bike too close for comfort, he bought the property. Things
have been pretty quiet since then.
James Mocho, the now-76-year-old Realtor who
sold Weems the land, grewup in the area on his fathers
115,000 acres. That cemetery belongs to the people in it
and their folks, Mocho said.
And what an assorted bunch they are. Life isnt neat
and tidy and neither are these scattered graves, though its
evident that people cared. Early mining town residents,
some surely victims of a disastrous explosion in 1932, are
marked by nameless wooden crosses pointing in every
compass direction. Some headstones, most weather-
battered and listing, bear Spanish inscriptions.
But amid the piled rocks that discourage critters from
digging, distinctly unusual markers call out like noisy kids
who refuse to whisper at the library. Picture the contents
of a curio shop quirky, humorous, loving, and just plain
weird. Without a map, one wonders if the memorials
explain what these folks loved or howthey died.
Dolphins dance on a pole high above this rock garden.
Clustered blue glass bottles glint and wink at names
drawn on grave markers as unusual as the residents an
electrical box, a circular sawblade, and a knights helmet.
Can openers sprout in bone-dry dirt where an eternal
butterfly rests. Bike handles integrated with a cross
sit atop a wheel eternally riding somewhere. Ametal
hand rises fromthe grave, insouciantly waving a smoke
between tubular fingers while two guitars play on.
Fromcompany townto hippie enclave
Madrid started out as a company town, owned by the
Albuquerque &Cerrillos Coal Company in the 1930s and
40s. When coal consumption declined, its owner, Oscar
Huber, had to shut the mines down. In 1954, the entire
town was advertised for sale in The Wall Street Journal
for $250,000. There were no buyers.
When Huber died in 1962, his son Joe inherited the
town. Joe Huber let the long-haired young people, known
as hippies, live in the houses and fix the places up in lieu
of rent, Mocho said. Some paid minimal rents, and not all
the residents were hippies.
In 1973 or 74 or 75 depending on who tells the story
the whole town sold for $500,00 in 16 days with no
advertising. Joe Huber was the seller; Mocho the Realtor;
and the temporary real estate office was the saloon still in
existence, the Mine Shaft Tavern.
Independent, radically creative, and proud of it, the
residents of Madrid are the people your parents may have
warned you about, and nowyou really want to get to know
them. Around 300 residents, self-identified as Madroids,
formthe puzzle pieces of this unincorporated town.
There is no post office. Not one chain store. No local
police. No undertaker. No clergy. No funeral home.
Madrids church is a private home. Yet, although
amenities may appear curtailed to an outsider, pioneering
spirits with a shovel and a plot can bring forth unusual
fruit in Madrid.
Astroll down the eclectic main street of galleries,
shops and eateries housed in former mining town shacks
shows that Madrid understood recycle, upcycle and
water conservation long before the terms became trendy.
Being green in the desert, which seems like an oxymoron,
is a challenge met daily by residents who landed here
fromfast American cities, wide open ranges and slow
Peace Corps outposts.
In this thirsty land where water tower gauges
perpetually register as low, aptly named community
garden coordinator Amanda Bramble oversees planting
and harvesting of food and flowers. This is definitely not
Digging it inMadrid
Noncomformists rule former mining town
2012 Bienvenidos 85
your average garden club. The local water co-op donates
water. There are no individual plots and the only rule is
that every time you come to the garden, you have to make
a contribution labor, seeds, manure, or something,
said Bramble, who owns Ampersand Sustainable
Learning Center.
Diana Johnson a 77-year-old Madrid matriarch,
textile artist and co-owner of Johnsons of Madrid gallery
arrived here 39 years ago with husband Mel. Trained
at the Chicago Arts Institute where Mel also taught, she
and her husband were two decades older than most of
the residents and continue to be linchpins of the town.
Surrounded by the work of NewMexico artists and the
Johnsons signature creations, Diana talked about the
past, present and future of the town while Mel sustained
the writer and Diana with ginger ale and fudgsicles.
Of the fewplots set aside for community use, the one
for a community garden lay dormant until four years ago.
Diana described Bramble as part of the newenergy, doing
what we couldnt.
Bramble, who is extremely organized, recognizes that
if you put too much bureaucracy on anything in Madrid,
it fails.
Id seen the graveyard. I knewexactly what she meant.
Hours later, leaving Madrid, I passed that car again.
Another bumper sticker on it read, What a long strange
trip its been.
For more about Madrid
Find a listing of Madrid shops and other attractions at
www.turquoisetrail.org/stops/category/madrid/.
For more stories about Madrid residents, check out the trailer
to Sky Fabins DVD, Taking the High Road to Madrid (USA) at
skyfabinproductions.com/TTHRoad_main.htm.
Madrid residents have revived the mining town's July Fourth
parade tradition; it generally starts at noon.
Diana Johnson, owner of Johnsons of Madrid Galleries, left, and Amanda Bramble, owner of Ampersand Sustainable
Learning Center, standing in Madrid on the Turquoise Trail (Hwy. 14).
86 2012 Bienvenidos
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food | comida
Cutting out the carne
Vegetarians can find high cuisine while eating low on the food chain
Raw sushi at Body Cafe is made using jicama rice or nut pt, avocado, carrot,
cucumber, raw sauerkraut and sprouts.
STORY BY CRAIG SMITH
PHOTOS BY KERRY SHERCK
As a longtime lover of good food, Ive always been in synch with that
wonderful song fromthe musical comedy Oliver! You knowthe one
that starts off, Food, glorious food!
But now, since Imtransitioning into a vegetarian regimen after years of omnivore-ism,
Imnot sure which lyric to pop in next. My old favorite, the original Hot sausage and
mustard, must be left out unless I can find a spinach sausage that almost oinks.
My quandary is one thats shared by many locals, as well as many who come to visit
here during the busy summer season. Given the meat-based delights in our local eateries
and the traditional pork, lamb, goat and beef dishes fromnorteo kitchens, is coming
here to eat a plant-based diet like going to Agra and skipping the Taj Mahal?
Hardly, said noted cookbook author and lover of vegetarian cuisine Deborah Madison.
She said that what used to be called the vegetarian option is alive and well in Northern
NewMexico, especially given Santa Fes reliable sources of fresh-from-the-field raw
materials for home cookery and some restaurants devoted to vegetarian cuisine of taste
and virtue. And, she emphasized, were talking vegetarian cooking worthy of the name
not just opening up a can of peas and dumping the contents on a plate.
I must have written a million recipes for vegetarian cooking, though Ima total
omnivore, Madison admitted. Ive been writing about vegetables for 20 years and I still
dreamof cookies. I admit Impicky when it comes to going out to eat. There arent many
restaurants Ill go to. High-end restaurants are often a disappointment: Their vegetable
side dishes are usually not so good.
Madison still has some local favorites, though. Vegetarian cooking can produce
some amazing treats. I do like Jambo. I almost always have their vegetarian lentil stew.
El Tesoro, a little Salvadoran restaurant (in the Sambusco shopping center), has an
excellent tostada. Treehouse Caf is vegetarian and local. At La Boca, there are always
some amazing vegetable dishes on that menu. [Caf] Pasquals always has something
good to eat thats vegetarian, plus its all organic, which is a big plus in my book.
Other noted eateries where vegetarian or vegan cooking are either regularly available
or the sole menu offerings include the citys Indian restaurants, such as India Palace,
India House, and Raaga; Annapurna; Mu Du Noodles; and Asian restaurants, such as
Lans Vietnamese Cuisine. Lans is fabulous and has some amazingly good things to
eat without meat, including their phos [a noodle soup that comes in many variants],
Madison said.
And of course theres Body of Santa Fe, where Madison will eat fromtime to time.
Vegetarian in training that I am, I went there doubting and stayed to wonder. Arawvegan
pumpkin cheesecake, carrot cake or pizza made with a crust derived fromground nuts
is absolutely delicious. So are the vegetarian soups at Back Street Bistro. And the Plaza
Cafe Southside serves one of the biggest, most superbly presented fruit plates Ive found
in town.
There also are many vegetarian entrees at the small Mexican and Hispano restaurants
around town. After all, the traditional Three Sisters of southwest Pueblo cookery corn,
beans and squash provided the regions first residents and early colonists with a well-
balanced plant-based diet even before the V word was used to describe it. (Some vegan
foodies add another sibling, chile, to the mix with good results.)
Just ask before you order to be sure that no lard or meat stock was used to create any
of the dishes that interest you.
For those nights you choose to eat at home, Madisons recommendation is what many
88 2012 Bienvenidos
other vegetarian cooks advise: Shop fresh, local and fair-
trade. For her, that means trading at the Santa Fe Farmers
Market in the Railyard, or at La Montaita Co-op, or
through other local vendors shes come to knowand trust.
Ripe heirloomor beefsteak tomatoes, greens with the
goodness of the earth coming through their rich taste,
organically raised apples fresh fromthe tree, zucchini
and carrots, squash blossoms to stuff with goat cheese (if
youre lacto-ovo) or beans what could be better?
One tree, manybranches
There seemto be more differences between those who
choose not to eat animal products in general, and the
fine variations they then espouse, than between a full-
state version of the Hatfields and the McCoys or the
different sides in the Trojan War.
In general, a vegetarian eschews animal products in his
or her diet but admits everything that grows in or above
the ground, or in the sea fromfruit and nuts to legumes
and seaweeds, or wheat products and root vegetables.
With personal exceptions, of course; the variable diets
of vegetarians are multifold. Lacto-ovo vegetarians will
consume eggs, butter, milk and cheese, but not meat or
fish. Other vegetarians partake of fish, possibly poultry
nowand then. (Imstill lurking after turkey.) Others
adore certain kinds of vegetables but avoid others: sweet
potatoes, yes; baking Idahos, no.
Vegans, who are far stricter, have an abiding love affair
with plant foods. No, not fertilizers, but fruits, nuts,
legumes and vegetables fromboth land and sea. Some
vegans also partake of cereal products, but others cant
abide them. They generally are not averse to cooking
their food.
Rawvegans, however, live up to their name. They
exclude all animal-derived products fromtheir diet and
dont cook the fruits, vegetables or anything else they
consume. Period. I knowone rawvegan who wont even
let water boil for tea: He believes subjecting anything to
heat destroys the intrinsic food value.
However, all three tribes, if you will, are perfectly
happy with natural sweeteners. Agave syrup; pure
maple syrup; stevia powder or leaves are all favored for
making a green shake suggest a treat rather than a dose
of medicine. Vegetarians enjoy honey especially locally
harvested honey while vegans avoid it because it
comes fromliving creatures.
So pull up a chair and feast away. The days are long
gone, especially in Santa Fe, when eating vegetarian
meant nothing but mounds of rabbit food.
Meat-free dining
ANNAPURNAAYURVEDIC CUISINE
1620 St. Michaels Drive
988-9688
BACKSTREET BISTRO
513 Camino de los Marquez
982-3500
http://backstreetbistrodailysoup.blogspot.com
BODY OF SANTAFE
333 W. Cordova Road
986-0362, www.bodyofsantafe.com
CAF PASQUAL'S
121 Don Gaspar Ave.
983-9340, www.pasquals.com
EL TESOROCAF
500 Montezuma Ave., Suite 104
988-3886
INDIAHOUSE
2501 Cerrillos Road
471-2651, http://indiahousenm.com
INDIAPALACE
227 Don Gaspar Ave.
986-5859
www.indiapalace.com
JAMBO
2010 Cerrillos Road
473-1269
www.jambocafe.net
LABOCA
72 W. Marcy St.
982-3433
www.labocasf.com
LAN'S VIETNAMESE CUISINE
2430 Cerrillos Road
986-1636
MUDUNOODLES
1494 Cerrillos Road
983-1411
www.mudunoodles.com
PLAZACAF SOUTHSIDE
3466 Zafarano Drive
424-0755
www.plazacafesouth.com
RAAGA
544 Agua Fra St., Unit B
820-6440
http://indianrestaurantsantafe.com
THE BETTERDAY COFFEE SHOP
905 W. Alameda St.
780-8059
TREEHOUSE PASTRY SHOP/CAF
1600 Lena St., Suite A2
474-5543
http://treehousepastry.com
Breakfast burritos your way
Heres how a Northern New Mexico breakfast
burrito that happy avatar of the hand-held
meal could be interpreted by vegetarians of
varied persuasions, as compared to the standard
option.
STANDARD: A flour tortilla encases beans,
eggs and/or meat, with hot chile (green, red or
Christmas) and melted cheese on top. Also in, or
nearby on the plate, could be Mexican rice, beans,
onion, avocado, lettuce and tomato garnish, sour
cream and salsa. Lard or other animal fats likely
are lurking somewhere, too.
VEGETARIAN: Flour tortilla, beans or grains,
veggies and chile, no meat. Laco-ovos might add
eggs or cheese, inside or on top of the burrito.
Sides and garnishes can be the same as for the
standard option as long as cooking oil and other
fats include no animal products.
RAWVEGAN: A tortilla made of lettuce or
cabbage leaves, seaweed wrap or ground nuts
or a mix of blended peppers and spinach.
Inside and on the plate: everything raw that you
can imagine, including sprouted beans, with
most ingredients spiral-sliced into delicate curls
that fall lightly onto the tongue. Even apples can
have a place. Raw cheese made from nuts,
red pepper and soy sauce or liquid amino acids
also might appear if they are made following
the heating and ingredient guidelines of the raw
vegan diet.
A vegetable pakora at Raaga, served with tamarind
chutney and mint cilantro chutney, is made using
chickpea flour. This item is both vegan and gluten-free
and is only available on the daily lunch buffet.
2012 Bienvenidos 89
90 2012 Bienvenidos
BENEDICTINE MONKS BREW
WITHCARE ANDAPRAYER
INABIQUI
2012 Bienvenidos 91
STORY BY ADELE MELANDER-DAYTON
PHOTOS BY KERRY SHERCK
Driving north up N.M. 84 toward Ensenada, its easy to miss Forest Service
Road 151. The turnoff is dusty and faint. The road itself is one lane rutted to a
washboard and crossed with intermittent cattle guards (in springtime, calves
wander by the roadside), with steep hairpin
turns and gravel the size of shooter marbles. This
means the trip up Chama Canyon isnt for the
faint of heart. But fewdirt roads in Northern New
Mexico yield sweeter rewards. For 13 pleasantly
slowmiles, F.S. Road 151 hugs the Chama River,
winding past chalky mesa cliffs and views of
Pedernal, until at last it ends at the Monastery of
Christ in the Desert.
Founded in 1964 by monks fromMount Saviour Monastery in
NewYork, Christ in the Desert is a collection of adobe and straw
bale buildings (and a tall, glassy chapel, plus a huge photovoltaic
array) clustered where Chama Canyon begins to narrow. The low
brown structures are peaceful and modest, befitting a Benedictine
monastery. But drive up the road a little farther, past the refractory
and the gift shop, and youll find a newer, smaller building. Its tiny,
tiled and lit with fluorescent lights. The buildings sterility and
sheer newness stand out against the old adobes and red sandstone
dirt. This is the year-old microbrewery of Christ in the Desert,
where, as a hanging vinyl banner proclaims, beer is brewed with
care and a prayer.
At the end of March, the monks were hard at work on their
first production brew. This was an exciting moment: While the
Monastery of Christ in the Desert
P. O. Box 270
Abiqui
801-545-8567
www.christdesert.org/
IF YOU GO
Brother Augustine Seiker stirs hops into the brew.
92 2012 Bienvenidos
brewery has been used a handful of times over the past year, the monastery had been
waiting on state and federal licensing to legally sell beers brewed on-site. Later this
summer, they hope to open a tasting roomon the property check the website or call for
current information but until then, guests are welcome to visit the brewery.
Five brothers one dressed in full habit (long black robes) and four in shorter, shirt-
length work habits worn with jeans and sneakers moved in concert through the small
room. In the center stands the three-tiered brewing sculpture: shiny stainless steel
kettles (arranged in graduated heights for gravity-assisted draining), valves, burners
and lots of tubing. Test tubes and droppers line one wall, and supplies (bags of sugar and
grain) are stacked neatly in a storeroom. The design of the brewery is solely functional,
save for a simple crucifix hanging over the sink.
Abbey Beverage Company (ABC) was founded in 2004, when two Santa Fe physicians
provided the startup capital. Monasteries have to earn their own living and be
economically self-sustaining, said Berkeley Merchant, general manager of ABC. Thats
the rule of St. Benedict: ora et labora, prayer and work.
Merchant is an oblate, or a layperson whos dedicated to the monastic way of life. His
religious name is Brother Barnabas. Merchant moved to Santa Fe with his wife in 2006
after 30 years as a successful entrepreneur in Portland, Oregon, and the brothers asked
if hed like to become the monasterys business manager. Be careful what you pray for!
said Merchant, laughing.
Merchant was on hand with brewmaster Brad Kraus to instruct the brothers in the
exacting process of crafting a perfect brewon this particular day, tripel, an aromatic
and grain-intensive recipe that yields a high-alcohol beer. Because the operation at
the monastery is small-scale, most of ABCs brewing takes place at Sierra Blanca
Brewery in Moriarty. (Even the small batches of beer brewed at Christ in the Desert
will eventually travel there for carbonation and bottling.) The goal is for the brothers
to [eventually] become totally independent in brewing, but well always rely on Brad for
the recipes, Merchant said.
Dressed fromhead to toe in carefully pressed denim, Kraus has brewed all over the
world and studied both beer brewing and winemaking. Locally, hes worked for the Santa
Fe Brewing Company and Blue Corn Brewery, among others, and helped found the New
Mexico Association of Small Brewers (nowthe NewMexico Brewers Guild). Its clear
fromKraus easy demeanor and attention to details temperature, the density of the
barley grind that he knows his way around a brewing sculpture.
We make the dubbel, the tripel, Monks Ale and Monks Wit, said Krause. Theyre
traditional Belgian ales; we wanted to stay in that Benedictine tradition. Monks Ale is
similar to what typical monks would have as a daily single, but it has broader appeal, too.
Its around 5 percent [alcohol volume]. Its approachable; it pairs well with food.
Brother Bernard Cranor in front of the gift shop and visitor center.
Precise temperatures are very important.
The mash tun should stay between 150F
and 154F.
Brother Christian Leisy stirs the barley in the mash tun.
2012 Bienvenidos 93
To begin brewing, Merchant and Kraus instructed three monks Brother Christian
Leisy, Brother Bernard Cranor, and Brother Augustine Seiker in measuring and
grinding precise amounts of barley. The barley grinding was loud, like ice in a blender.
Then the mash-in began. Kraus changed fromhis cowboy boots into black waterproof
brewing boots. The monks stood on a ladder and poured the ground barley into the top
kettle, called the mash tun. Brother Christian stirred the grain and hot water with a
white plastic paddle that looked better suited for kayaking. Aromatic barley went in last.
The process is really simple, said Merchant. You take the barley, grind it and then you
steep it, just like you would tea.
Ooh, it smells so good, Brother Christian said. The whole roomwas warmand toasty,
and it smelled sweet, like grass baking in the sun after it rains in the summertime. Even
the propane delivery guy stopped in to smell the brewand peek in the mash tun.
Were in the recirculation phase, said Kraus. Once the mashing the conversion
of starch into sugars was over, the wort (sweet, malted barley liquid) circulated over
the top of the grain, which acted as a natural filter. Here, the meticulousness of the
grinding suddenly made sense; the size of the grains must be just right for the wort to
filter properly.
We passed around a shot glass filled with wort, viscous and heavy like honey. I taste
all along the process, said Kraus. That way, you knowwhere [the beer] is coming from
and where its going.
Near the end of brewing, hops are added to the tripel. Hops actually growwild in
NewMexico, said Merchant. [Juan de] Oate, in his journals, even mentions that he
sawthemhere. The barley may come fromWisconsin, but the hops used in ABCbrews
are all organic and grown by the monks in a trellised field on the property, not far from
the banks of the Chama. The entire hops cycle is local and self-sustaining: Fields are
irrigated with water fromthe Chama and nearby Gallina Creek, and grains leftover from
brewing are used as compost for the crop.
To see it done at Christ in the Desert, brewing is a joyful process. Everyone was serious
and attentive when it came to measuring grains or keeping an eye on the temperature of
the mash tun, but there was an easy camaraderie, too. As the kettles simmered, everyone
chatted and swapped stories.
Sacramento wine is what kept California wineries afloat during Prohibition, said
Brother Bernard, speaking not of the city but of wine used for religious purposes. Brother
Bernard is a spry 80-year-old with tortoise-shell trifocals and a full white beard. Hes
been at the monastery for 21 years and has assisted on three brews so far. Brewing is an
optional activity for the monks, and about 10 to 14 of 25 monks participate.
It seemed like kind of a cool thing to, Brother Bernard said, eyeing the kettles. I
dont consider myself a brewer yet.
Brothers Bernard, Christian and Augustine look into a kettle during brewing. Brother Bernard sips warm wort.
Brother Christian holds ground barley before its stirred into the mash tun. Hops! Different varieties grow on the
monastery property.
Chama River
94 2012 Bienvenidos
BY ADELE MELANDER-DAYTON
Nothing announces the arrival of sweet,
sweet summer better than a fresh pint
of cold beer. Fortunately, Northern New
Mexico is a budding mecca for beer lovers,
whether youre a microbrewconnoisseur
or just starting to expand your taste
buds beyond the ho-humBud and Coors
rotation. NewMexicos beers and the
people who make themare as varied and
unique as the state itself: theyre brewed
in 19th-century log cabins; Santa Fe
neighborhoods; and soon, on a flat expanse
of dusty mesa outside Taos.
SantaFe suds
SECONDSTREET BREWERY
1814 Second St. 505-982-3030
1607 Paseo De Peralta #10
505-989-3278
www.secondstreetbrewery.com
With two locations (the standby on its
namesake street and a newer, industrial-chic
space at the Santa Fe Railyard), daily happy
hour deals on pints and eclectic appetizers,
Second Street Brewery epitomizes the friendly
neighborhood pub. Both locations boast live
music usually on Fridays and Saturdays
open mic nights and the occasional trivia
competition. The nine taps (eight at the
Railyard) offer a rotating selection of Second
Streets 44 brews, including two or three
mainstays augmented by other beers that
change depending on the season or brewers
whims. The light n bright klsch ale tastes
like the beginning of summer and is an ideal
choice for breezy afternoons and warmer
temperatures.
SANTAFE BREWINGCOMPANY
35 Fireplace Road
505-424-3333
www.santafebrewing.com
Contrary to popular belief, the Santa Fe Brewing
Company doesnt have a music venue that
would be Santa Fe Sol Stage and Grill. What it
does have is tasty beer and lots of it, including
cans (portable and perfect for picnics and
camping), introduced in 2010. For summertime,
the canned selection will include the Freestyle
Pilsner so called because it doesnt conform
to a classic pilsner classification, according to
general manager Alana Jones a light lager
with a hoppy afterbite, which makes it an
ideal beverage for your next al fresco dinner.
As an alternative to the main brewery out on
N.M. 14, Eldorado folks can enjoy the satellite
tasting room in the La Tienda shopping center.
Although theres no food available on site,
patrons are encouraged to bring their own eats
and hang out.
MARBLE BREWERY TAP ROOM
60 E. San Francisco St. 505-989-3565
marblebrewery.com/marblesantafe.html
Take a shuffleboard table, 14 taps, pizzas from
Rooftop and combine these with one of the
best patios on the Plaza, and its no surprise
that the Marble Brewery Tap Room has become
one of Santa Fes most popular bars since its
opening three years ago. Beer lovers are treated
to Marbles seven regular taps (that include
yummy choices like the Wildflower Wheat,
Oatmeal Stout and a pilsner that took home
a bronze medal from the National Brew Fest
in Denver) in addition to a rotating, seasonal
selection of specials made up of guest brews
from other breweries around New Mexico.
Next year, Marble hopes to take its cult beers
national as it expands distribution beyond the
20 states that currently carry its brews. While
the Tap Room doesnt offer live music, the
summer bandstand series on the Plaza wafts up
to drinkers four nights a week during the warmer
months. As an added bonus, you can score free
Wi-Fi while sipping your Imperial Red.
BLUE CORNCAF ANDBREWERY
133 Water St. 505-984-1800
4056 Cerrillos Road 505-438-1800
bluecorncafe.com
Blue Corn turned 15 this April, and in honor
of this momentous birthday, new head brewer
John Bullard has crafted a colossal brew: the
Colossal Pils, that is. Bullard cited cleaner
flavors as one of his contributions to the
brewery, and come summertime, hell add a
couple of fruit brews to the mix. Check out the
Facebook page for information about upcoming
events (beer and small plate pairings happen
regularly), along with deals and specials. The
Southside location has lots of parking, seating
and a sports bar vibe, while the downtown spot
offers open balconies in the summertime.
IL VICINO
321 W. San Francisco St.
505-986-8700
ilvicino.com/brewery/
You probably already knew that Il Vicino serves
up a tasty thin-crusted pizza, but as a bubbly
bonus, the restaurant also brews all of its
own beer. The Il Vicino Brewing Company in
Albuquerque (with an attached canteen that
serves food and has live music) keeps all four
New Mexico locations stocked with its Wet
Mountain IPA, American Wheat 28M, Slow
Down Brown and Pigtail Pilsner. Other taps
rotate often, and seasonal varieties ensure fresh
beer and optimal pizza pairings. Brewer Brady
McKeown recommends the dark American lager
for spring and summertime sipping. He said
theres always something going on at Il Vicino.
Check the website for up-to-date information.
Farther afield
BLUE HERONBREWINGCOMPANY
2214 N.M. 68, Embudo
505-579-9188
www.blueheronbrews.com/
The nearest town is Embudo, but husband and
wife co-owners of the Blue Heron Brewing
Company, Kristin and Scott Hennelly, prefer to
think of their spot off N.M. 68 as Rinconada,
Spanish for corner of nowhere. Blue Heron is
hyper-local, from the hops grown by Kristins
cousin in nearby Dixon right down to the names
of the beers they brew. The brewery is run
by the Hennellys with help from brewmaster
Brandon Santos. In May, well see the return of
the seasonal maiboch, the lightest of the boch
beers. A favorite standby is La Llorona Scottish
Ale (a smoky beer with chocolate undertones).
The big news at Blue Heron is the opening of
an outdoor patio for warm-weather drinking.
The patio plays host to live music on Friday and
Saturday nights in the summertime (theres
music on Saturdays year-round) and to an
open-mic night every other Wednesday.
THE TAOS MESABREWINGCOMPANY
20 ABC Mesa Road, El Prado
www.taosmesabrewing.com/
A musician, a lawyer, a brewer and a sustainable
developer walk into a bar. This isnt the
beginning of a bad joke; its the business plan
behind the almost-open Taos Mesa Brewing
Company, a 5,000 square foot brewery and
music venue. Brewer Jason Wylie is all set
to begin brewing at the state-of-the-art and
totally green, solar-powered facility (designed
by developer Peter Kolshorn) and hopes to have
beer ready to go by Memorial Day Weekend.
The idea for a music space first took root a few
years ago when lawyer Gary Feuerman and
musician Dan Irion (of Taos band Last to Know)
were traveling in a caravan up to Colorado for a
String Cheese Incident show; they talked about
opening their own music venue on a mesa near
Taos. An encounter with Wylie and Kolshorn at
the Arroyo Seco Fourth of July parade led to a
speedy and serendipitous meeting of the minds.
Taos Mesa Brewery is located on N.M. 64, three
miles from the Rio Grande Gorge Bridge.
ESKES BREWPUBANDRESTAURANT
106 Des Georges Lane, Taos
575-758-1517
www.eskesbrewpub.com/
Eskes Brew Pub and Restaurant is the best-
known and longest-established brewery north
of Santa Fe. Microbrew enthusiasts shouldnt
miss tasting its fragrant green chile beer, or
the Eske Special Bitter, made from 95 percent
organic grains. The food is a draw in its own
right try world cuisine Thursday (Indian,
Greek and other globally adventurous dishes)
or, for a change of pace, sushi Tuesday. Eskes
is turning 20 this September, and news for 2012
includes the removal of guest beers and wines
from the menu, due to changes in licensing
laws. But Eskes fans shouldnt worry too much;
the pub will still have plenty of its own beers
on hand. In fact, brewer Chris Jones is working
on a gluten-free brew for celiac-suffering beer
lovers. Check out the lively and oft-updated
Facebook page for Eskes devotee discussion
and drool-worthy pictures of blue plate specials
and foamy heads of beer.
TAOS ALE HOUSE
401 Paseo de Pueblo Norte, Taos
575-758-5522
taosalehouse.com/
Its been a busy year for Jesse Cook, the
brewmaster and owner of the Taos Ale House.
Since its opening last August, the Taos Ale
House has experimented with different brews,
culinary offerings and outdoor seating setups.
Cook has developed more than 25 beer recipes,
which hes gradually winnowing down to a few
choice favorites. For now, nuanced, personal
recipes like the simple porter are popular, along
with the Mogul Imperial IPAand the Stone
Lake IPA, named for a fishing spot near Dulce.
Sports fans, take note: The Ale House boasts a
really nice flat screen and what Cook said is the
only NFL package in town. If youre not up for
catching the game, local bands like Boris and the
Salt Licks occasionally perform. And to address
those hanging-out-in-the-afternoon-sun-
without-getting-fried needs, look for a covered
portal to accent the patio in summer 2012.
COMANCHE CREEKBREWING
COMPANY
225 Comanche Creek Road, Eagle Nest
575-377-2337
comanchecreekbrewingco.com/
Homebrewers Kody and Tasha Mutz crossed the
border fromColorado and settled in Eagle Nest
to open Comanche Creek Brewing Company
at the homestead of Kodys great-grandfather.
(You can still see the log cabin he built as a
blacksmithing shop some 100 years ago.) While
microbrewery competition is stiff in Colorado,
fromthe Mutzes gorgeous perch at the foot
of the Sangre de Cristos, there are no rivals in
sight. The Mutzes use pure mountain water
as the foundation for their beers rugged,
appropriately named brews like Homestead
Amber, Touch-Me-Not IPAand Deadman
Pale Ale. In the summertime, Kody brews fruit
beers: This years plans include raspberry wheat
and honey cherry. Weve had great support
fromthe community, said Kody, citing the Pike
Tournament and the High Country Arts Festival
in Eagle Nest as fun events where theyve offered
a tasting table. And we love having people come
out to the patio.
(ADDITIONAL REPORTING BY SEAN BRANDER)
Brewing upastorm
comida| food
Apitcher of Rods Best Bitter at
Second Street Brewery
2012 Bienvenidos 95
96 2012 Bienvenidos
STORY BY JOHN VOLLERTSEN
PHOTOS BY KERRY SHERCK
Although the address is not quite as
notorious as 109 E. Palace Ave. where
scientists and military men and women were
cleared to work in the secret atomic world
at Los Alamos in the 1940s The Palace
restaurant at 142 W. Palace Ave. has easily
had as historic an impact on our fair city
minus the nuclear fission.
In a year when NewMexico celebrates its 100th birthday
and Santa Fe its 401st, this landmark establishment
continues to set herself apart fromour foodie towns other
200-plus restaurants by constantly reinventing herself,
changing out the culinary talents, painting or flocking
the walls, and striving to keep the old-timers happy while
luring the young and trendy through the swinging doors.
Avast array of characters has helped formThe Palaces
rich history. Perhaps most notorious was Doa Maria
Gertrudis Barcelo, aka La Doa Tules, a Mexican woman
who established a saloon on the site circa 1835. Until her
death in 1853, La Doa ran The Palace as a gambling joint
(with rumors of more intimate entertainment upstairs).
Historical records describe her as more handsome than a
beauty, and one can only surmise that she must have had
an amazing presence to successfully run such a business
when Santa Fe was still part of the Wild West.
Owners fromafar
The many operators of the long-lived eatery have spanned
the globe. The building as it stands today opened in
1961 under the ownership of a French couple named
Charles and Mimi Besre. Two sets of proprietors later,
restaurateur Lino Pertusini, an Italian, took over.
Pertusini, who owned and operated The Palace for 18
years, is happy to share what he thinks gave the restaurant
its drawin its glory days. In those days that part of town
was the center of Santa Fe living, he said. There was a
gas station across the street, a parking lot and Safeway.
People would do their banking on the Plaza and walk
down to shop [and] it was easy to park. We would do 200
lunches and 400 dinners [a day].
Pertusini, who nowowns both Pizzeria da Lino and
Osteria dAssisi, has many fond memories of the halcyon
years he operated the place. We brought in an Italian
designer to host a fashion showin the dining room.
[You have to] realize that in those days there were only
a handful of dining options. Customers would arrive for
dinner [before the] opera and be all dressed up; it was an
event. We were lucky; we had a very loyal and consistent
following.
Though many might remember Pertusinis menu
as being Italian, he considered it more Continental,
with Caesar salads assembled at the table. For a time,
Pertusini said, I had both a Frenchman and an Austrian
working as chefs in different stations in the kitchen.
They were iincredibly competitive with each other,
always trying to outdo one another; the food they put out
was fantastic.
Roland Richter, chef-owner of Joes Diner and Pizza,
got his culinary start in Santa Fe at The Palace under
Pertusini. I interviewed with all of the major restaurants
in town, he said, with Mark Miller at The Coyote Caf,
at SantaCaf and The Compound, but took The Palace job
with Lino because I liked the idea of working with a
hands-on operator. I liked howLinos brothers Bruno and
Pietro were all involved. Richter, who is German-born,
had just arrived in the States fromToronto.
When Lino sold The Palace in 2003 to focus on his new
venture, Osteria dAssisi, he was able to bring many of his
staff to his second project. I had a bartender that worked
for me for 27 years, he recalled. And, like The Palace, the
building that houses the Osteria was also a house of ill-
repute. I see a trend here, he chuckled.
The next owners of The Palace included a successful
NewYork restaurateur named Jean DeNoyer, local
businessman Eddie Gilbert and chef Alain Jorand, who
today heads up the cuisine at Adobo Catering.
Our original plan was to reopen The Palace as a French
brasserie similar to the ones DeNoyer was famous for,
Jorand recalled. Amassive [$2 million] renovation
took place. We took over in December and opened in
January, sadly missing the holiday season. The menu
was primarily French with a fewNewMexico dishes.
We flewin Dover sole and offered dishes like osso buco,
lobster with vanilla beurre blanc, and cte du boeuf. Fairly
quickly I discovered that we all were not in agreement
on what the food should be and I left the project by April,
followed by DeNoyer a short time later. After that I took a
break fromcooking and sold cars.
After the French departed, Gilbert drewGeronimo
owner Cliff Skoglund and its chef Eric DiStefano into the
project. Skoglund envisioned The Palace returning to its
Italian heritage with the help of DiStefanos modern spin
on the popular cuisine.
We set out to return The Palace to its former glory and
it was fun for me to be cooking some of those classics,
DiStefano said. Our most popular dish was spaghetti and
meatballs, and regulars would come in to the kitchen and
ask me to prepare their favorites dishes.
The restaurant was given a cosmopolitan makeover
with flat screen TVs scattered around the roomshowing
Italian art films, many of which boasted muscular men
in various degrees of undress going through what might
be described as wrestling moves.
I remember being there and there were two older
ladies fromSanta Fe society dining while that soft porn
was playing over their shoulders, Pertusini recalled
with a hearty laugh. I think the dcor was a stretch for
some people, DiStefano added, and not everybody was
digging it.
Ayear later, Skoglund abandoned the Italian theme
and adopted a modern Southwestern saloon concept
that he hoped could become the model for a chain
Frombrasserie to bucking
bronco, the guard changes,
but The Palace still stands
From
bordello to
fine dining
comida| food
2012 Bienvenidos 97
and Seor Luckys was born. Stylish cowboy motifs
replaced any trace of the rooms original design, with
a mechanical bucking bull placed center stage in the
dining roomto attract a decidedly different clientele
fromthe days of yore.
Nonstop concept-hopscotching eventually sawthe
closure of Seor Luckys in 2007. Skoglund moved on
to Scottsdale, Arizona, while DiStefano continues to
wowlocals and visitors alike with his Coyote Caf and
Geronimo. (He plans to open a newventure, Stats, a
sports bar, in the old Swig location across fromThe
Palace this summer.)
Where everybody knows your name
After Seor Lucky hit the trail, the historic location sat
empty for four years. Many chefs and restaurateurs flirted
with the idea of reviving The Palace, but it wasnt until
April 2011 that entrepreneur David Bigby took over the
lease and invested yet another million-plus to breathe life
back into the grande dame.
Bigbys secret weapon was nationally celebrated chef
Joseph Wrede, former owner of the popular Josephs
Table in Taos.
Wrede originally dabbled with Italian touches on
the menu before deciding to embrace a more American
approach. The Palace has been a challenge because
it meant so many things to so many people. I have
realized that the bar is its own entity [separate] fromthe
restaurant. Because of its history, there is definitely a
good feng shui happening...
I feel as though I amslowly picking up on my cooking
where I left off at Josephs Table, he said. American
cooking nowencompasses so many ethnic cuisines. It is
exciting and risky taking on an establishment like The
Palace. Its interesting to think howurban it has always
been in a relatively rural area.
With all remnants of the bucking bull gone, The
Palaces newdcor pays tribute to its former incarnation:
The red-flecked wallpaper and saloon feel are back.
Though Bigby had no previous restaurant experience,
he, like his predecessors, had a vision. When I retired
I wanted to do a business that connected me to the
community in Santa Fe, Bigby said. Alot of my friends
had fond memories of The Palace as a local institution
and encouraged me to renewand revitalize it. My wife,
Barbara, is an artist and helped with design ideas and
painted pictures to hang in the dining room. We set out
to blend the old with some new, the Spanish with some
contemporary.
Even the spirit of Doa Tules watches over Bigbys new
Palace in the formof a portrait painted by Barbara.
Bartender Lynn Otero said it seems like every day
a former employee stops in for a meal and memories.
They tell me about high school proms, parties and
family celebrations and many still remember a Cuban
bartender named Alfonso who worked here for 30 years.
Otero also looks after the Wax MuseumBoys, headed
by former Santa Fe Mayor SamPick, who are regulars at
her bar.
We call ourselves [the Wax MuseumBoys] because
we have all known each other for so long, Pick said. I
like to think of The Palace as a Santa Fe version of the
Cheers bar fromthe TVshow. My buddies and I have been
coming here since the 1970s. Of course it has closed a few
times, and we werent into wearing cowboy hats during
the bucking bull days, but I think the folks at the new
Palace are doing a great job.
Pick celebrated his 76th birthday at The Palace in
March surrounded by 100 of his closest friends and
compadres.
Fromthe early years when a raucous card game
presided over by Doa Tules could be enjoyed by
cowboys, ranchers, traders, military officers and
merchants (with the promise of a slap and tickle
upstairs), through its fancy dress and dining days to
urban cowboys riding a mechanical bull, The Palace has
prevailed. With good food, good feng shui and a good
location, everything old is newagain.
DETAILS
THE PALACE RESTAURANT AND SALOON
142 W. Palace Ave., Santa Fe
505-428-0690
www.palacesantafe.com
Risotto cake with portobello mushroomsyrup, Parma prosciutto and Parmigiano-Reggiano
Fromthe top, the saloon at The Palace
The exterior and entrance to The Palace Restaurant
The Palace executive chef Joseph Wrede, seated in the
restaurants dining room
98 2012 Bienvenidos
2012 Bienvenidos 99
STORY BY HEATHER WOOD
PHOTOS BY KERRY SHERCK
Estellas Caf lights upLas Vegas
Located on Bridge Street in Las Vegas, NewMexico, just steps fromPlaza Park,
Estellas Caf beckons with a neon sign fromthe past.
The restaurant, founded by Luis and Estella Gonzales, has been at this location
since 1953 and is nowrun by their daughter Abelita Lujan and her son Zachary. The
dining rooms pressed-tin ceiling and floor-to-ceiling shelving are reminiscent of an
early 20th-century mercantile store, and Abelita is nowsorting through artifacts in
the basement, some of which pre-date her grandparents. Its been an adventure, she
said. Every single letter, receipt and card is down here. Its a history lesson.
Estellas menu is built on popular local dishes, such as the best-selling handmade
chile rellenos stuffed with Monterey jack cheese, dipped in a light egg batter and deep
fried, then topped with salsa or smothered in your choice of red or green chile. The
batter is so light that theyre crispy; thats why they are so popular, Abelita said.
The flautas are served with either beef, chicken, pork or chicharones (long-
simmered fried pork fat try thembefore you turn your nose up). Our flautas are
different, Abelita said. Theyre served like soft tacos with a little bit of onion and
tomatoes and guacamole and sour creamon the side.
Abelita and Zachary, the recipe man, are adding some more contemporary
offerings to the menu, like beef sliders prepared from100 percent organic, grass-fed
beef froma nearby ranch. This popular addition is topped with grilled onions and
homemade pickles and served on a home-baked bun. The teamalso has added Chefs
Choice Dinner Specials to the menu that change frequently and include pasta dishes.
Theyre venturing into the breakfast scene with huevos rancheros, home-baked goods
and fair-trade coffee. For dessert, try the natillas much loved by norteos
a cinnamon-scented egg custard.
When movies are being filmed around Las Vegas, the cast and creweat here,
Abelita said. They love the green chile stew.
Eating at the extremes
Northern New Mexicos far-flung communities offer local specialties
food | comida
100 2012 Bienvenidos
The lanternstays lit inEl Rito
Thirty years ago, when Dennis Trujillo and his sister
started El Farolito restaurant, it seemed natural to
welcome locals and travelers alike with a lantern el
farolito in the window. Nowtheir little light welcomes
thousands of diners every year, including celebrities
Shirley MacLaine, Marsha Mason, Susan Sarandon and
former Gov. Bill Richardson.
The restaurant is a family affair. Dennis and son
Dominic man the range. Mom, Carmelita, is in charge
of the handmade tamales and chile rellenos. Dominics
sister, Marisol, and his wife, Andrea, pitch in, too, as do
their two children.
People travel for miles to choose frommore than
four pages of homemade NewMexican and American
specialties. Hungry? You cant go wrong with the best-
selling No. 5 combo plate. which nets you one enchilada,
one chile relleno, rice, beans and two sopapillas. Or try
the Farolito burger, cooked to order and topped with
green chile, cheddar cheese and bacon and served with
mayo, mustard, pickles and onions. The chile rellenos
are wrapped in a flourless meringue-like batter and
smothered in red or green chile. Theres a special kids
menu for los nios.
Soft drinks are available and the restaurant boasts a
servers license that allows diners to bring their own brown
bag of wine or beer to enjoy with their meal.
El Farolito is small just eight tables seating 32 diners.
Reservations arent necessary, but Dominic asks that large
parties call ahead to give thema heads-up. Were small
enough to pay attention, noted Dominic, which is no doubt
a large part of their recipe for success.
Atree grows throughEl Paragua
Why should you make a special trip to Espaola to eat at
El Paragua? Because of the food! The food is homemade,
everything is prepared in house, said Jose Atencio, one of
nine members of the Atencio family that runs this Northern
NewMexico restaurant. Plus its a historic building, with
ambience, atmosphere and a tree growing through it.
Frances and Luis Atencio started the restaurant in
1966 after selling tacos and tamales froma roadside
cart covered with a parasol. As they grew, they expanded
into what was originally a tack roomin one of Joses
grandfathers ranch buildings.
Dad was the builder and bartender and Momwas
the cook, Atencio said. They knewnothing about the
restaurant business, but they made it work. They just kept
adding on the tree used to be outside the restaurant,
but instead of cutting it down, they just built around it.
That beloved tree stands like a paragua (umbrella) over
the restaurant, and people come fromfar and wide to sit
around it in the bar.
Perennial best-sellers at El Paragua include the chile
rellenos that are made one at a time with freshly roasted
green chiles, stuffed with tomato and onion, dipped in a
light egg batter and fried, then smothered with cheddar and
Monterey jack. The enchiladas supremo feature chicken
enchiladas with red or green chile (or both) topped with
sour cream. And the award-winning beef tacos are available
in soft or crispy shells, topped with house-made salsa.
We make our flour tortillas on a wood stove in the front
of the restaurant, Atencio said. We even make our own
chips.
Breakfast is served on Saturday and Sunday only. It
features a waffle bar with a variety of toppings, the Buenos
Dias Combo a hearty plate of enchiladas, fried potatoes
and eggs house-made menudo and smothered breakfast
burritos with homemade chorizo.
The full bar is known for its made-from-scratch
margaritas, but you also can peruse the five-page wine
list, which features vino fromPortugal, Spain, France,
California and other places, as well as domestic and
imported beers.
Homemade flan, natillas and raisin-bread pudding will
satisfy your sweet tooth.
ESTELLAS CAF
148 Bridge St., Las Vegas
505-454-0048; call to confirm hours
Cash and local checks only; no credit cards
Monday-Wednesday 10 a.m.-3 p.m.
Thursday-Friday 10 a.m.-8 p.m.
Saturday 10 a.m.-3 p.m.
closed Sunday
EL FAROLITO RESTAURANT
1212 Main St., El Rito
575-581-9509
Cash and local checks only; no credit cards
Closed Monday
Tuesday-Friday 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m. and 4:30-7 or
8 p.m. (depending on how busy)
Saturday and Sunday 11:30 a.m. or noon to 7 or
7:30 p.m. (depending on how busy)
EL PARAGUA
603 Santa Cruz Road, Espaola, at the corner
of U.S. 285 and County Road 76
505-753-3211
www.ElParagua.com
Reservations are recommended on weekends
Monday-Friday 11 a.m.-9 p.m.
Saturday and Sunday 10 a.m.-9 p.m.
(breakfast ends at 1 pm)
IF YOU GO
As El Paragua grew, it expanded into a former ranch building and wrapped around a tree instead of cutting it down. The tree now stands like a paragua (umbrella) over the restaurant.
Why shouldyoumake a special tripto Espaola to eat at El Paragua?
Because of the food! The foodis homemade,
everything is preparedinhouse
JOSE ATENCIO
2012 Bienvenidos 101
of except i onal
musi c- maki ng
JUL 15 - AUG 20
2 0 1 2
Marc Neikrug, Artistic Director
Intimate. Compelling. Unforgettable.
E
njoy a remarkable variety of
chamber music jewels performed
by world-class musicians, including
our 2012 Artist-in-Residence,
Alan Gilbert the critically
acclaimed music director of the
New York Philharmonic.
toll free 888.221.9836
or 505.982.1890
SantaFeChamberMusic.com
J o i n u s f o r t h i s
MileStone SeaSon
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