Essential oils are not solvent extracted materials (where solvents might include carbon dioxide, benzene, toluene, acetone, ethanol, hexane etc.) this list also includes absolutes, products of dry (=destructive) distillation and molecular distilled products. It should be noted that perfumery absolutes frequently contain synthetics to boost their radiance and diffusiveness perfumery absolutes have featured recently in aromatherapy magazines.
Under existing EU H&S policy, natural complex substances are treated as a collection of individual composite chemicals. The vast majority of essential oils, absolutes & resinoids contain several of the 26 SCCP allergens, which may have to be labelled in product under EU Directive 2003/15/EC (now under review). The desire by cosmetic / household product manufacturers to avoid excessive product labelling has previously lead to some decline in the overall usage of essential oils.
Threatened Species
Few essential oil users can be unaware of the situation where aromatic plants & trees either have been-, or are being-, over-harvested to the point of extinction, particularly in the cases of agarwood (oud), rosewood, Cedrela odorata, cedarwood Kenyan, sandalwood East Indian, costus, candeila isolates (for bisabolol) & styrax oils to name but a few. A more complete list is shown at www.cropwatch.org/Threatened%20Arom atic%20Species%20v1.21.pdf
Legally obtained sandalwood oil E.I. (Santalum album) is virtually non-existent spot from the effects of disease and over-exploitation. Any production (est. 70kg/y) goes to the Indian sandalwood soap industry. The completely differently profiled Australian sandalwood oil Santalum spicatum (containing 10% farnesol) often substituted in aromatherapy. Errwhy? Its classified (DPD) as Xi R43 Irritant Australian Santalum album oil producers are now calling their sandalwood oil E.I. which has upset many senior figures in the e.o. trade. Santalum oils from minor sandalwood spp. are also sold by aromatherapy oil suppliers. These materials usually have no proper safety assessment and any beneficial health effects are unestablished.
Rosewood Oil
Use of Rosewood oil is still being recommended in current aromatherapy magazines but the genuine oil is completely commercially unavailable due to the outcomes of the actions of CITES. The use of this oil from an over-exploited S. American species was always unethical, but few previous users seemed to be aware of the issues (why not?).
For example according to IFRA-IOFI 2011, Clary Sage Oil under DSD is Xi Irritant, R38-43-51/53, S24-37 and under UN-GHS is FL 4, SCI 2, SS 1, EDI 2A, EH A2,C3.
Key R38=irritating to skin R43=may cause sensitisation by skin contact R51/53=Toxic to aquatic organisms, may cause long-term adverse effects in the aquatic environment
Clary sage
Geraniol
Clary sage
ATO NC; ATD, ATI ND; SCI 3; EH A2,C2 ATO, ATD NC; ATI ND; SCI 2; SS 1; EH A1,C1
N; R51/53
Clary sage
Acronym Index
BSE: Bovine Spongiform Encephalopathy DSD: Dangerous Substances Directive 67/548/EEC CITES: Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna & Flora CLP: Classification, Labelling and Packaging of Substances and Mixtures (CLP Regulation EU 1272/2008) CMRs: Carcinogenic, Mutagenic or Reprotoxic materials EU: European Union GMOs: Genetically Modified Organisms H&S: Health and Safety IFRA: International Fragrance Association (renamed) IOFI: International Organisation of the Flavour Industry PCBs: Polychlorinated biphenyls REACH: Registration, Evaluation Authorisation & Restriction of Chemicals regulation SCCP: The EUs Scientific Committee for Consumer Products (now the SCCS) UN-GHS: Globally Harmonized System of Classification and Labelling of Chemicals (inc. essential oils)