Line Product Development-Kincadetech - Pp12a

Line Product Development
Chapter 12
Objectives
Delineate the process of getting samples prepared for approval Identify the specifications used for an apparel or home furnishing item Explain the importance of specifications to a consumer-centric company Discuss how specifications are developed in a collaborative environment
Merchandising of Fashion Products, 1/e

Doris Kincade & Fay Gibson
2010 Pearson Higher Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved.
Objectives
Explain how specifications are approved, monitored and controlled Calculate a quick cost for a product Discuss how the determination of manufacturability can affect the initial design of a product

Objectives

Calculate final wholesale cost Identify the importance of feedback to the consumer-centric company Discuss the final adoption and approval processes for the line products

Line Product Development
Actualizing color, style and fabrication selected in the line concept development stage Moving product from line concepts of designers, merchandisers and product developers to sample Initiating and executing creative and applied design activities as well as technical design functions
to begin season line development and to implement initial line plan

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Line Product Development Process

Initiating the Line Product
Tools

Fashion sketches Flats or technical sketches
Fashion Designer: Amber Roth

Samples
Design sample (also called prototype)
Made from sample fabric, ordered for cutting and sewing the design sample Made in the facilities at the corporate offices, where the design and merchandising teams are housed Process of making the sample from a sketch
Prototyping
Sample room hands

Make samples for the designer Are highly skilled operators who have worked with the designer for many years
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Line Sheets
Provide basic information about the product
Style number, technical sketch, price range or price point, deadlines, season, fabric swatch, trim and colors
Also called protospecs because they are preliminary spec sheets

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Fashion Designer Katie Keene


Style Adoption
Style Adoption Meeting
Also called Line Development Meeting
Merchandisers meet with
sales personnel, top management, production managers, and other decision makers to confirm the styles of the seasonal product line

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Story Boards
Contain visual images of styles for the season May also include other graphics
Colorways, logos, prints, fabrics
Used in the Style Adoption Meeting
Story Board Courtesy of The AmericTech Group, USA, Inc.

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Product Specifications
Are technical guidelines for all aspects of the product
Always contain style numbers, product line, sizing, theme
Used to control and evaluate product quality Also called Spec Sheets
Design Spec

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Product Specifications
A set of specs for one product
Is called a Spec Book
Usually eight or more specs
Typical specs are
Design, fabric, findings, cutting, sewing, sizing, fit and final inspection

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Fabric Specs
Sample Testing Information for Fabric Spec for Popular Priced Childs Knit Shorts
Contain information about
Desired Fiber content and fabric Fabric Criteria construction Testing information Fading Pilling Shrinkage Filling
Test
AATCC 61 ASTM D 3512 AATCC 135
Standard
3 Gray Scale 3 <3%

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Cut and Sew Spec Terms
Cut order planning
Detailed information about cutting equipment and procedure Request to have markers cut from specified fabric Identify which sizes and how many units of each size must be cut ISO 4915 / 4916 or ASTM D6193-97 with pictures Detailed descriptions or pictures about specific design areas on the product
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Cut order

Stitch and Seam Standards
Sew Details

Cut Room at Karen Kane, Los Angeles
Courtesy of Karen Kane

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Fabric Sourcing
Merchandisers participate in trade fairs to market and find the right fabrics

Interstoff Trade Fair - Frankfurt, Germany Techtextil Show Frankfurt, highlights nonwovens and technical textiles Premiere Vision in Paris, France Ideacomo in Como, Italy Pitti Filati yarn show in Florence, Italy Canton Trade Fair in Canton, China Premire Vision Preview, International Fashion Fabric Exhibition (IFFE) and Texworld USA - New York City Material World Miami, FL
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First Pattern Development - Tools
Tools

Basic slopers Rub-off Design sample
First pattern maker
Highly paid and highly skilled employee with extensive pattern experience

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Fabric and Color Checks
Color Quality

Color standard Color consistency
Tools

Color Matching Samples

Courtesy of The AmeriTech Group, USA, Inc.
Lab dip Hand-loomed sample Knitdowns Yarn dip Strike off

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Manufacturability
Agreement that the product sample made in the designers sample room can be made efficiently and effectively on the sewing production floor Manufacturability is evaluated using production sample or counter sample

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Manufacturability Decisions and Terms
Sewability Componentization Product sample quality Reiterations Manufacturing Meeting
Final approval of the production sample Includes merchandisers, designers, product developers, production engineers and floor managers

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Costing - Quick Cost
Also called preliminary cost Based on yardage needed determined from production sample Formula
Quick cost = Fabric cost X 3

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Costing Final Cost
Two goals are accomplished:
Costs of designing and producing the product are covered and profit goals may be achieved Cost will be appealing to the retailer and will result in an attractive price to the consumer
Exact information is entered Fabrications, labor, and company overhead
Created through use of a cost sheet
Components are

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Costing Terms
Calculations and entries on cost sheet
Standard allowable minutes (SAMs) Labor costs - sewing labor and indirect labor Total manufactured costs (TMC) Total cost Landed cost (LC) Vendor retail price
Price Meeting

Finalize the cost of each SKU Composed of merchandisers, product developers, patternmakers, purchasing agents, and finance personnel
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Line Release
Merchandiser will check production sample
For adherence to product trueness to the initial design

Production samples judged to meet established specifications and are released by the merchandiser
Prototype approval samples (PAS)
Freeze Meeting

Preview and finalize the new seasonal line Includes personnel from across the multiple functions in a company
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Preparing the Line for Market
Marketing Freeze Meeting

Finalize the marketing materials for each line Includes a team of product merchandisers, product developers, and marketing personnel
Sales Meeting
Educate the sales team or account managers on how to sell the line to the retail client Present product offering and marketing materials for the new season Includes merchandisers, marketing personnel and the sales representatives or account executives, who sell-in the merchandise to the retailer
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Line Product Development

Merchandising of Fashion Products, 1/e

Merchandising of Fashion Products, 1/e

Merchandising of Fashion Products, 1/e