Chapter 12
Objectives
Delineate the process of getting samples prepared for approval Identify the specifications used for an apparel or home furnishing item Explain the importance of specifications to a consumer-centric company Discuss how specifications are developed in a collaborative environment
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Objectives
Explain how specifications are approved, monitored and controlled Calculate a quick cost for a product Discuss how the determination of manufacturability can affect the initial design of a product
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Objectives
Calculate final wholesale cost Identify the importance of feedback to the consumer-centric company Discuss the final adoption and approval processes for the line products
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Actualizing color, style and fabrication selected in the line concept development stage Moving product from line concepts of designers, merchandisers and product developers to sample Initiating and executing creative and applied design activities as well as technical design functions
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Tools
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Samples
Made from sample fabric, ordered for cutting and sewing the design sample Made in the facilities at the corporate offices, where the design and merchandising teams are housed Process of making the sample from a sketch
Prototyping
Make samples for the designer Are highly skilled operators who have worked with the designer for many years
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Line Sheets
Style number, technical sketch, price range or price point, deadlines, season, fabric swatch, trim and colors
Style Adoption
sales personnel, top management, production managers, and other decision makers to confirm the styles of the seasonal product line
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Story Boards
Contain visual images of styles for the season May also include other graphics
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Product Specifications
Used to control and evaluate product quality Also called Spec Sheets
Design Spec
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Product Specifications
Design, fabric, findings, cutting, sewing, sizing, fit and final inspection
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Fabric Specs
Sample Testing Information for Fabric Spec for Popular Priced Childs Knit Shorts
Desired Fiber content and fabric Fabric Criteria construction Testing information Fading Pilling Shrinkage Filling
Test
AATCC 61 ASTM D 3512 AATCC 135
Standard
3 Gray Scale 3 <3%
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Detailed information about cutting equipment and procedure Request to have markers cut from specified fabric Identify which sizes and how many units of each size must be cut ISO 4915 / 4916 or ASTM D6193-97 with pictures Detailed descriptions or pictures about specific design areas on the product
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Cut order
Sew Details
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Fabric Sourcing
Merchandisers participate in trade fairs to market and find the right fabrics
Interstoff Trade Fair - Frankfurt, Germany Techtextil Show Frankfurt, highlights nonwovens and technical textiles Premiere Vision in Paris, France Ideacomo in Como, Italy Pitti Filati yarn show in Florence, Italy Canton Trade Fair in Canton, China Premire Vision Preview, International Fashion Fabric Exhibition (IFFE) and Texworld USA - New York City Material World Miami, FL
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Tools
Highly paid and highly skilled employee with extensive pattern experience
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Color Quality
Tools
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Manufacturability
Agreement that the product sample made in the designers sample room can be made efficiently and effectively on the sewing production floor Manufacturability is evaluated using production sample or counter sample
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Final approval of the production sample Includes merchandisers, designers, product developers, production engineers and floor managers
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Also called preliminary cost Based on yardage needed determined from production sample Formula
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Costs of designing and producing the product are covered and profit goals may be achieved Cost will be appealing to the retailer and will result in an attractive price to the consumer
Exact information is entered Fabrications, labor, and company overhead
Components are
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Costing Terms
Standard allowable minutes (SAMs) Labor costs - sewing labor and indirect labor Total manufactured costs (TMC) Total cost Landed cost (LC) Vendor retail price
Price Meeting
Finalize the cost of each SKU Composed of merchandisers, product developers, patternmakers, purchasing agents, and finance personnel
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Line Release
Freeze Meeting
Preview and finalize the new seasonal line Includes personnel from across the multiple functions in a company
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Finalize the marketing materials for each line Includes a team of product merchandisers, product developers, and marketing personnel
Sales Meeting
Educate the sales team or account managers on how to sell the line to the retail client Present product offering and marketing materials for the new season Includes merchandisers, marketing personnel and the sales representatives or account executives, who sell-in the merchandise to the retailer
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