SUBMITTED BY:

AKHILA PV KABIL DIVAY NIKITA DAYAL SOURAV ROY

o A marker is the diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern pieces for a specific style and the sizes to be cut from a single spread. o Marker making is the process of determining the most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a specified style, fabric and distribution of sizes.

o The process of arranging pattern pieces in the most efficient manner requires time, skill and concentration.

o There are two steps in Marker Making : o Marker planning : The placement of pattern pieces to meet technical requirements and the needs of material economy. o Marker production : 1. Drawing the marker plan directly on to fabric. 2. Drawing it on to a paper marker by pen or automatic plotter. 3. Recording pattern piece information on the paper marker or on the fabric without actually drawing pattern lines on it.

o There are two methods of marker making and planning : 1. Manual Method : Manually produced markers may be created by arranging full-size pattern pieces on marker paper or directly on the top ply of fabric in a spread. 2. Computerized Method : In this process, at first the production pattern is entered in the memory of the computer by using digitizing and scanning and using full size production pattern also stored in the memory of the computer but all pattern pieces are displayed in miniature form at the top of the screen.

o Pattern pieces are traced using a pencil or tailors chalk. o Manual methods of marker making are time-consuming and require a great deal of space.

o Full-size pieces must be manipulated, adjusted and readjusted on normal fabric widths.
o Manually made markers are also subject to errors and inconsistencies that may occur in i. Grain variation ii. Poor line definition iii. Placement and alignment of pieces iv. Omission of pieces.

This procedure has proved far more versatile than other methods. o Plotting is the process of drawing or printing pattern pieces or markers on paper so that they can be reviewed or cut. o Computer-driven plotters may draw pattern pieces, graded nest of patterns and/or markers with complete annotation(comments or instructions), depending on the needs of the apparel firm. o Firms using computerized cutters may not need paper markers to guide the cutting process and therefore may only print identification information for bundles.

o It is more accurate and provides the greatest opportunity for pattern manipulation, marker efficiency, reuse of previously made markers and shortest response time.
o Production patterns may be developed on the computer and/or digitized or scanned into the computer. o In addition, parameters for markers are entered into the computer from cutting orders. o These might include style numbers, size distribution and fabric width. o Technicians manipulate pattern images on computer screens and experiment with various configurations to determine the best material utilization for the marker. o Protective devices are built into the programs to ensure grain alignment and prevent overlapping or omission of pieces or other errors.

o Markers may be open or closed depending on the form in which the fabric is presented for cutting. o Markers made with full-pattern pieces are called open markers. When the garment is asymmetric, or for the purpose of obtaining the best quality from the spreading process, the open marker keeps pairs of parts (left and right) close together in the length of the marker. The open marker is used on fabric that is spread open and face up on the table. For most woven fabrics, and flat open knits, open markers offer the second best utilization of fabric(first being mixed marker).

Markers made with half-pattern pieces for laying along the folds of the tube are called closed markers. The closed marker is used under special circumstances. As only one half of the pattern set is used, the fabric spread on the table is folded in its length and is oriented face to face. After cutting, any one pattern piece would yield the left and right piece of the garment when choosing a pair of consecutive plies. Styles that have certain pattern pieces that cover the full width (a one piece back versus a left and right back pattern piece) can be oriented on the control fold of the marker (see Spreading Closed Goods). Cutting through at the fold, yields a one-piece part.

o Marker makers must also consider the symmetry(side-to-side) and directionality(end-to-end) differences in fabrics. o Symmetric fabrics are the same side to side. When the fabrics are turned round through 180 and retain the same appearance , they are called two way or symmetrical.

o Asymmetric fabrics, such as border prints are different side to side.If a fabric ply is turned around, it does not retain the same appearance.

o Nondirectional fabrics are the same end to end. o Directional fabrics are different end to end

Markers are prepared in one of several modes. The direction of the nap is used to define the mode of spreading. Fabric is naturally rolled, under most circumstances, with the down direction of the nap toward the open end of the roll of fabric.

o The Nap/ One/ Way marker (abbreviated N/O/W) is made with every pattern placed with the down direction of the pattern in the same direction. This mode is necessary for fabrics that are asymmetric. o The Nap/ Either/ Way marker (abbreviated N/E/W) is made where there is no restriction of which way the pattern are oriented. The patterns may be oriented either down or up, placed wherever

they fit best, only making sure that the patterns are on-grain. The Nap/ Either/ Way marker is usually the most efficient mode yielding the highest fabric utilization. o Nap/ Up/& Down marker (abbreviated N/U/D) is more efficient than the Nap/ One/ Way marker, but not as efficient as the Nap/ Either/ Way marker. In order to get a better fit between the patterns, alternating sizes of patterns are oriented in opposite directions. Should the fabric have slight variations in shade, the patterns are placed where the left and right pairs of parts are located close together in the length of the marker. This method is yields moderately good fabric utilization, and good quality.