Outline
Natural fibers for textile
Cotton fibre, wool, silk and flax
Nature Fibers
Cotton (Vegetable fiber) Wool (Animal fiber) Silk (Animal fiber) Flax (Vegetable fiber)
Man-made fiber
Nylon (Polyamide) Polyester Acrylic Spandex
Cotton
Cotton is a plant fiber, composed mainly of cellulose. Cotton is classified by its fiber length, color and cleanliness. The fiber length is the most important since the longer the staple length, the better the fiber properties. Cotton fibre length lies between and 2 inches, most common used is 1 to 1 inches
Cotton Properties
The fiber has good strength and abrasion resistance. It is hydrophilic, absorb moisture quickly and dried quickly. Quick drying gives a cooling effect which makes cotton a good fiber for hot weather. The fiber is completely washable and drycleanable. There are no static or pilling problems.
Wool
Wool is the fiber that forms the covering of sheep. Wool shorn from live sheep is called fleece wool. Lambs wool is wool taken from sheep of less than one year old and is very soft. Wool is mainly composed of protein (likes human hair) because it is animal fiber. It is a medium weight fiber of natural cream with fiber length between 1 and 18 inches. .
Wool Quality
Wool quality depends upon the breed of sheep, climate and health of sheep. The thinner the fiber diameter, the better the properties of wool. Merino wool is considered the best grade of wool. It has the most crimp, best drape, most strength, best resiliency, best elasticity, softest hand, and the most scales on its surface. .
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Wool Properties
The fiber has good resiliency when dry but poor when wet. Wool has good drape and elasticity and is hydrophilic (13% moisture regain) and has very little problem with static. Wool makes warm fabrics for two reasons. First, it absorbs moisture slowly and dries slowly, thus having no cooling effect and resulting in wools feeling warm when worn. Second, wool fabrics have excellent insulation property because the fibers have a natural crimp which prevents them from packing together so forms dead air spaces (trapped air). The trapped air is the insulating barrier.
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Man-made fibers
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Nylon (Polyamide)
Nylon is a man-made fiber in which the fiber-forming substance is a long chain polyamide in which less than 85% of the amide linkage are attached directly to two aromatic rings. The fiber has a rod-like shape with a smooth surface
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Nylon Properties
Nylon is a lightweight fiber with excellent strength and abrasion resistance. It is about 10% weaker when wet. It is very good elasticity, good resiliency and good draped and can be washed or dry-cleaned. Nylon, however, is a hydrophobic fiber and absorbs 4 percent moisture regain. Nylon has static and pilling problems and has poor resistance to prolonged and continuous exposure to sunlight (unless modified to improve them).
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Nylon
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Polyester
Polyester is a man-made fibre in which the fibre-forming substance is composed of at least 85% by weight of ester aromatic carboxylic acid. The fiber has a rod-like shape with a smooth surface.
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Polyester
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Polyester Properties
Polyester is a medium weight fiber with very good strength and abrasion resistance. It can be washed and dry-cleaned. The fiber has excellent resiliency and is the best wash-andwear fiber. Polyester, however, is almost completely hydrophobic (0.4% moisture regain). It is difficult to get water and detergent into fiber to remove stains. Static and pilling are major problems.
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Acrylic Properties
Acrylic is a lightweight fibre with good drape and wool-like hand. It provides fabrics that are warm and light. It has good resiliency and elasticity and has excellent resistance to sunlight and weathering. It may be washed or dry-cleaned.
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Acrylic
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Indirect system
Yarn English count (cotton count) is to measure the yarn fineness and is defined as no. of hanks of 840 yards weight in 1 pound. Cotton count= X * 840 yards/1 pound.
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Discussion
What are the advantages of manmade fiber? Why 100% man-made fiber is not suitable for apparel product?
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