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Sewing problems

Sewing problems consist of 1. Problem of stitch formation. 2. Seam pucker. 3. Fabric damage at the seam line.

1. Problems of stitch formation: Broken Stitch


a.

Causes:

thread

Broken Stitch: if there is s break in sewing

Needle damages the thread in the seam, i.e, wrong needle size and thread size. Broken stitches can also occur when there is excessive abrasion or chemical degradation of the thread during the wash process. Improper thread Tension Edges of the needle plate, presser foot, needle holes may have sharp edges Excessive presser foot pressure can cause the thread to be damaged

1. Problems of stitch formation: Broken Stitch


Remedies:

Needle size and thread size should be synchronized Special care should be taken during washing Tension of threads should be properly adjusted Sharp surfaces should be removed Inspect the needle point at regular intervals and check for sharp or burred points

1. Problems of stitch formation: Broken Stitch

1. Problems of stitch formation: Skipped Stitch


b) Skipped stitch: If the upper thread in continuous stitches can not pick the lower thread i.e. binding miss during stitch formation is called stitch. Causes: Loop size or needle is small. Needle deflection or bending. Tension variation in lopper and needle thread. Hook or lopper or needle is not able to hold the thread loop in proper time. Remedies: Timing of (hook or lopper) with needle should be adjusted properly. Adjust needle and thread size. Adjust tension property. Change of thread.

1. Problems of stitch formation: Skipped Stitch

1. Problems of stitch formation: Staggered Stitch


c) Staggered stitch: If the stitches produced by needle are not parallel with the seam line, staggered stitches formed. Causes: Needle vibration or deflection. Blunt or wrong needle point. Not proper adjust of needle size and thread size. Faulty movement controlling of fabric into the feed mechanism. Remedies:

Needle size should be proper. Change of needle or thread size. Change of feed mechanism.

1. Problems of stitch formation: Unbalanced Stitch


d) Un balanced Stitch: If the interlacement of the needle thread and bobbin thread does not takes place at the middle of two layers of the fabric then unbalanced stitch is produced. Causes: Incorrect tension of sewing thread. Incorrect passage of thread through the guide. Due to insufficient lubrication, (uneven) tension variation increased. Remedies:

Adjust thread tension. Correct the passage of thread. Use good quality of thread.

1. Problems of stitch formation: Variable Stitch Density


e) Variable stitch density: If the no. of stitch varied in the seam line per unit length, then variable stitch density occurred. Causes: Insufficient pressure of pressure foot, causing uneven feeding. Feed mechanism is not working properly. Wear of feed mechanism. Loose of parts. Improper unwinding of thread. Twisting of needle in the bottom of thread package. Fraying of thread in the needle. More tension in the thread. Becoming of more heating of thread and hook.

1. Problems of stitch formation: Variable Stitch Density

Remedies:
Uses

of improved feed mechanism. Increase of pressure of pressure foot. Proper threading of sewing thread. Thread can be changed. Proper use of lubricant. Use of quality needle. Finer thread can be used. Tension of thread must be adjusted.

1. Problems of stitch formation: Frequent Thread Breakage


e) Frequent thread breakage: Causes:

Improper unwinding of thread from package. Higher thread tension. Excess needle heating. Lower quality of thread. Remedies: Reduce tension in tension in tension disc/post. Reduce thread tension. Use of strong yarn. Change the needle if required. Use coarser needle. Use of high quality needle. Use lubricant. Use needle cooler. Confirm oil supply. Change of thread.

2. Problems of seam pucker


Pucker is a wrinkled appearance along with sewing line. a) Unequal stretch on fabric: Causes : If two or more plies fabrics are sewn together, one ply will be feed more than other and seam pucker create due to uneven stretch. This pucker formed due to limitation of feed mechanism. Remedies: Improved feed mechanism of sewing machine. Skilled operator and fabric handling would be special process. b) Fabric dimension instability: Causes: When two or more types of fabric are sewn together and one type of fabric shrinks more, then after washing differential seam pucker is formed. Remedies:: Shrinkage difference must be less than 2 %. We should test shrinkage of two types of fabric before sewing.

Seam Puckering

Seam Puckering

2. Problems of seam pucker


c) Extension in sewing thread: Causes: While sewing threads are subjected to tension and for tension thread will be extended and after sewing when thread get chance of relaxation then seam pucker formed. Remedies: Tension of the thread should be kept as low as possible. By changing the sewing threads. d) Sewing thread shrinkage: Causes: After sewing, if the sewing threads shrinks due to wash or iron, then seam pucker occurred. Remedies: Shrinkage of sewing thread must be equal to the fabric shrinkage. Before sewing, the shrinkage property of both thread and fabric should be known.

2. Problems of seam pucker


e) Fabric construction: Causes: In a compact fabric high EPI and PPI, while sewing of such fabrics, the threads are displaced around the needle and because of lack of space, pucker may be seen along the holes created by the needles. Remedies: Very difficult to overcome this type of problem but to reduce the problems following steps should be taken:
By using fine / thin needle and fine / thin thread. Reduction of stitch density. Change the fabric if possible.

e) Mismatched patterns: If two pattern pieces of unequal length are joined, then one is joined with another by creating contraction, seam pucker creates.

3. Fabric damage at the seam line


Causes: This type of fault is mainly due to needle specially bent, blunt or damaged needle. For this fabric damage, sewing strength becomes low and due to more fabric damage, fabric may be tear off at the sewing line. Fabric may be damaged with new and good needle if needle selection is wrong. This fault is visible after washing and wear. Two types of fabric damage can be occurred with needle at the seam line: Mechanical damage. Needle heating damage.

3. Fabric damage at the seam line


a) Mechanical damage: To minimize the damage, the following steps are
Needle size and point should be properly selected. Machine speed should be reduced. Application of lubricant. Test the sew ability before sewing of fabric. b) Needle heating damage: The temperature in needle due to friction between needle and fabric is up to 300 350C. In this temp, needle or fabric both may be damaged. As synthetic fibers is melted at around 250C of needle. Groove in needle and eye are closed. We can solve the problem byLess speed of machine, proper needle size and shape, short length of sewing, cool air use, lubrication.

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