In-plant Training Report

Presentation
Presented By
o G.Ambikavathi [ 05F004 ]
o S.Nithya [05F036 ]
o N.P.Pradeepa [05F038 ]
o Raj Priya.M [05F041 ]
o C.Swasthika [05F055]
Introduction
Stallion Garments An ISO 9001:2000 certified company
Chairman and Managing director : K.A.S Thierumurthi and AM.
Karthikkeyan
Manufacturer and exporter of Knit and Woven readymade garments in all
kinds of fabrics
Sister Concerns: M/s. Statesman Fashions, M/s. K.A.T Garments, M/s.
Stallion Fashions
Branches: Production Unit and Dyeing Unit, Karumpalayam
Infrastructure: Entirely in-house and fully integrated facilities
Market Distribution


Market Distribution
Administration
Styles : Polo's, Swim Suits, Boxer Shorts,, Hooded Items, Outer jackets, Rugby
Shirts, Blended items, Briefs, Night wears, Pajamas.
Special finishes : Mercerization, Stone Wash, Enzyme wash, UV resistance
finish, flame retardant finish
Monthly Production capacity: 1, 00,000 pcs. In basic t-shirts.
Staff Strength: 320
Employees: 1200
Machinery : 740
Minimum Qty/Lead Time: 1000pcs/Color and 5000pcs/Order
60 -90 days for any order
Company Plan & Layout
1. Power room
2. Two wheelers
parking
3. Lab room
4. Accessories room
5. Gate
6. Security room
7. Toilet block
8. Compressor room

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Factory
Building
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AC Sheet Roof Building
Feed Room
AC Sheet Roof Building
Conference Hall
AC Sheet Roof Building
Finishing Section
AC Sheet Roof Building
Dining Hall & Rest
Room
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Factory
Building
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Boiler
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AC Sheet Roof Building
Feed Room
AC Sheet Roof Building
Conference Hall
AC Sheet Roof Building
Finishing Section
AC Sheet Roof Building
Dining Hall & Rest
Room
Machinery Details
Spreading Machine: Automatic
Company : Mehala Assyst Bullmer Compact D600
Cutting Machine: Band Knife Automatic
Company : Gurber
Spreading and cutting done in KVR Nagar , branch in Karumpalayam
Sewing Machines : Juki, Brother, Siruba, Pegasus
Packing Machine: Wedge pack
Needle detector
Fusing machine
Apparel Production System
Laying/Cutting
[KVR Nagar]
Tag for
Identification
Feed Section
[Assortment of
bundled pieces
Allotment of
work to each
floor (sewing)
Checking
Packing
Final
Inspection
Bill Of Lading
[Cost on
Freight]
Laying/Cutting
[KVR Nagar]
Tag for
Identification
Feed Section
[Assortment of
bundled pieces
Allotment of
work to each
floor (sewing)
Checking
Packing
Final
Inspection
Bill Of Lading
[Cost on
Freight]
Fabric Department
Fabric Analysis:
Fabric: All Feeder Lycra warp knitting m/c
Fiber Content: 95% Cotton 5% Lycra
Yarn Count: 40s Combed 20 Denier Lycra
Type of fabric produced: Dyed fabric
Width of fabric: 66 Open Width
Fabric Inspection System:
- 4 point system
- Fabric quality - number of defect points per 100yd.sq meter of fabric.
- length/width of defects point values 40 points first quality
Recommended Tests for fabric:
- Shrinkage
- Color Fastness
- Wet Rub
- Dry Rub
- Spirality
Forms issued to cutting department:
- Quality check report produced by Quality Inspector
- Fabric department dispatches the required amount of fabric to the cutting
department

Online Inspection System :
Grey stage [dyeing and production] and compacting stage
Fabric Defects:
- Holes [ knitting ]
- Oil Marks [knitting ]
- Stains [ dirt or dust forming a temporary defect ]
- Color fly [ Mixing of a color thread during spinning ]
- Neps [ rare occurrence; entanglement of fibers]
Report : Quality check report - Quality Inspector
Fabric Sourcing and Fabric center : External Sister concern of Stallion


Pattern making and Sampling Department


N.P.Pradeepa [05F038]
Software: Investronica Systems, LECTRA Company
+ Medium size pattern - manually positioned on digitizer
+ Drafted using optical mouse
+ Seam allowances given while preparing manual pattern or after pattern
making. Minimum of 1cm
+ Grading system : Computerized 2-dimensional and 3-dimensional
systems it in 2-D done in 2D effect obtained in 3D
The measurements are entered accurately and the graded pattern is
obtained.
+ Size Ranges : S, M, L, X, XL [ buyers requirement ]


Sample Types :
+ Style Sample - acceptance from the buyer style & shape
+ Photo sample - appearance
+ Production Sample - exact one sent for direct production
Design Department :
Export orders - buyer specifies his requirements [style, design, method and
procedure]
Accordingly the company selects the type of machineries and arranges them as
required


Cutting Department
Cutting
Department
Layout
Spreader m/c
Spreader m/c
Spreader m/c
Cutting Table
Fabric Stock
Fabric Stock
Fabric Stock
Fabric Stock
Fabric Stock
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Lift
room
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Fabric
Roll
Stock
Fabric
Department
Fabric Manager
ERP Room
CAD Room
Cutting Manager
Fabric Accountant
Stores
Spreader m/c
Spreader m/c
Spreader m/c
Cutting Table
Fabric Stock
Fabric Stock
Fabric Stock
Fabric Stock
Fabric Stock
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Lift
room
1 2 3 4 5 6
Fabric
Roll
Stock
Fabric
Department
Fabric Manager
ERP Room
CAD Room
Cutting Manager
Fabric Accountant
Stores
Cut order planning details :
+ Plan done prior to cutting
+ Specification - Order number ,Garment name
+ Cutting Received - Colors for various sizes and their quantity
I/P & O/P for cutting is mentioned

+ Pieces ready for packing is also mentioned
Marker Planning done in using the computerized systems as per the
garment patterns
Done in a most economic way
Efficiency : up to 90% can be achieved
Method Of Spreading:
Face to Face
Automatic spreading machine
Name: MEHALA ASSYST BULLMER COMPACT D600
Fabric rolls are placed on the traveler
Motor driven
Driver seat with brake controls to spread the lay
Lay table - perforated holes - purpose to maintain tension and slide the
lay to the cutting table easily without any distortion.
Lay height :max 5
Width : 3 meter


Method Of Cutting:
Automatic cutting machine GURBER cutting machine
Straight knife used
Band knife is being used for edging purposes
Assortment and Bundling :
Single color single size pieces bundled
Ticketed and sent Sewing Department
Transport : trolleys
Production Capacity:
Cutting machines capacity : 5 lakh
Companys Capacity :production of 1 lakh pieces


Sewing Department
Raj Priya.M [05F041]
Lift
Porch
Sewing
Sectio
n
Checking
Stock Sewing
Section

Sewing Section
Checking

Sewing Section
Needle Detector
Packin
g
Sectio
n

Packing
Tables
Iron Tables
[8 in number]

Stain
Remov
er
Fire Exit Fire Exit
Exit Exit
Exit Exit
Machinery Details
Over lock Machine
3 Thread Over lock - 4 Thread Over lock - 5 Thread Over lock
Flat lock Machine
2 Types of Bed
Circular Bed [ neck , sleeve ]
Flat Bed [ general purpose ]
Single Needle Flat lock
Double Needle Flat lock
2 Thread Over lock - 3 Thread Over lock - 5 Thread Over lock

Singer Machine
Single Needle
Double Needle
Manufacturers: Germany make
Procedure for Sewing varies acc. to order
Machines equipped with wheels for order arrangements and
rearrangements
Special attachments deployed will be dealt later

Process Analysis
Style :SLIM FIT T-SHIRT
Garment Segments
Front Panel 1
Back Panel 1
Sleeve 2
Neck Rib [same as fabric]
Cutting Procedure:
The front and back panels are being cut as per the measurements given in
the spec sheet. Sleeves are also being cut.

Sequence, Machine & Operation time
Shoulder Attachment
4 Thread Over lock
0.00.04.10

Sleeve Attachment
5 Thread Over lock
0.00.15.80

Label Attachment [neck]
Singer Single Needle
0.00.01.25

Neck Tacking [self fabric - binding]
3 Thread Flat lock
0.00.22.05



Sleeve Hem
3 Thread Flat lock
0.00.03.54

Sides Attachment
Attachment of Wash Care Label along
4 Thread Over lock
0.00.09.88

Bottom Hem Finishing
3 Thread Flat Lock
0.00.16.10


Type of Inspections
E Sewing thread inspection
Ply of the yarn is checked usually 3 ply used in the industry 2 ply in rare cases
E Operation Inspection
By Quality Assurance department placement of machines and online inspection
E Protection Ensure
Needle guard
Safeguard labors from hazardous situations
Glass protecting in front of needle
Pulley Guard
Protective casing around the pulley
Ensures safety - Made of steel covering the belt
E Measurement Inspection
Random inspection on any garment is done

E Final Inspection
12 seats in each line 3 floors
Checking table at end checking
Trims are being done
100% inspection of all garments
Material Handling:
Feeding section : Trolley
Manufacturing Unit: Utility Lifts 3 floors serves the purpose only
Sewing Section : Manual movement using Line Tables
Trolley Capacity: 2000 pieces
Service Table:
Sintex bins [bring cut pieces - cutting dept] - Feeding table [boxes as input for sewing]
No hanger system being followed
Accessories
Sewing Thread
Fiber Content - 3 ply polyester 150 Denier
Size - 5000mts cone
Special Finish - White Oil Finish - lubrication
Closures
Button:
Color - Dye to match [DTM] 2 hole
1 Gross = 144 buttons M/C = Rs.10 S/C : Rs.17
Zippers:
Types: Zipper Type ;Spring Type
Method of Attachment: Visible and Invisible method
Size: As per the requirement of the customer/buyer
Make : China make & Hong Kong supply
M/C : Per inch = 40 paisa S/C = 60 paisa

Interlining Material:
Specifications : M/C :Per yard = Rs.10 S/C = Rs.12
Woven [sticky]
Non-woven [non-sticky]
Micro Dot Foam [doesnt appear thick but has sufficient stiffness
100% polyester]
Labels :
Main Label
Size Label
Wash Care Label
Tab Label [pocket side]
Flag Label [sides of the garment]
Other Accessories used in Industry:
Laces ,Satin ribbons ,Satin elastic, Ready-made piping, Badge [woven],
leather badges, All over embroidery/chest printing, etc.


Standard Testing For Fabric & Garments
Machinery
1. Electronic crock-o-meter
Test :colorfastness to crocking
Size of the Test Specimen: 20cm*5cm
Procedure - Rating:
Color staining of wet and dry rub assessed - grey scale ISO 105-A03 standards
or using Spectrophotometer
2. Perspirometer
Size of the specimen = 10cm*4cm
Force of the specimen = 5kgs
Size of acrylic plates = 12.5cm*6.5cm
No. of acrylic plates = 16
3. Washing fastness Tester - Procedure
4. Hot air oven [ Drying ]
Temperature: 105C
Time: 30 minutes

5. pH Test
Company: ELICO.LTD
pH: 10
specimen - 10gms cut into tiny pieces boil in 250ml of water cover using watch
glass continue boiling for 10 min room temp cool measure with electronic pH
meter directly
6. Shrinkage Test
Temperature: 201C
RH: 652
7. Spirality Test
Specimen circumference: 11.2cm cut using round plate
Color matching Cabinet:
Machine: Verivide
Make: Switzerland

4 light option buttons: [ shops light settings ]
Color Matching Software: 3.0 Macbeth.
-D65 [ Europe ]
-TL 84 [ US ]
-Filament [ US ,Cool white fluorescent]
-UV Light
Pantone Color Samples:
E Shades - textile cotton or textile paper solution
E Colors Record form
E Accepted internationally
Testing Centre :
Internally - Quality inspector reports check




Quality Control
S.Nithya [05F036]
Inspection
Inspection is done at three main stages:
Raw Material Inspection
In-Process Inspection
Final Inspection
Raw Material Inspection
Yarn Stage - Before Fabric Inspection - Fabric Inspection Size-Set Approval
Accessory Inspection
- Sewing threads
- Zippers
- Buttons
- Interlining
Online Inspection
During production - By Quality inspector
Carried out various stages: Spreading ,Cutting ,Sewing, Pressing, Finishing


Acceptable Quality Level:
Statistical Sampling technique
These are 4 main levels followed in Apparel Industry. The levels are;
1.0 1.5 2.5 4.0
Suppose the buyers ask for AQL 2.5, then the industry will follow the
previous AQL 1.5. To be precautious in not exceeding the rejection
number.
Final Inspection:
Final Inspection end of production before shipment
Atleast 80% of the consignment finally packed
Performed according to International Standards


Yarn Test Report


Lab Dip Approval [2.5cm * 2.5cm]

Fabric GSM Approval
Size set approval and Accessories approval

Packing Material approval
[Carton, Garment Fold Tissue, Cardboard, photo]
Carton Sticker [printed]
Defective pieces accepted if within AQL level .
Grading given as;
Excellent
Very Good
Good
Poor [lot is rejected]


Cost and Freight
[Company responsible for goods gate ]

In-house Stuffing
[Central Excise takes in charge 4 container lorries Rs.400 a lorry

Bill Of Lading
[After a day of dispatch]

g Company waits for a high rate of foreign currency then does the in-house
stuffing and call for the Central Excise.
g That days market value is entered as the final rate in foreign currency.
g A small profit to the organization!!!!!!!!!

Finishing Department
Sequence till Dispatch after garment construction
Garment Construction
Final Checking



Tagging / Stickering
Poly Bag Packing
Inspection
Checking
Ironing
Carton Box Packing
Pressing Machinery:
Flat Bed
Purpose: Ironing any part of garment
Make: Ram sons and Mehala ,Made in India
Features:
Air sucking in table steam iron pedal for supplying steam
Water level 400ml
No. of machines : 8
Iron wt : 400gms [small ]
Folding Specifications:
Tissue Paper Packing
Inner Board Packing
Hanger Packing [ 20hangers in 1 master bag]
Photo card packing

Packing Procedure:
Individual Poly Bag Packing
Master Pack [ 10 in 1 ]
2 pack , 3 pack, 5 pack in carton box
Packing Materials:
Poly Bag [ with ceil king ] - Tissue paper - Inner board - Reference Tag -Sticker - Cello-tape
- Pouch poly bag with button
Carton Details:
Buyers Address
Goods Description
Net wt. gross wt
Carton Number
On the other side - Carton measurements: l*b*h
Ratio of Packing:
Assorted & Unassorted type
25, 50, 75,100 are the numbers kept standard for the quantity

Special Machines in various Departments:

w Air Flat Lock [auto trimmer dust passage ]
w Checking Machine [hole detection tube light ]
w Trimming Machine [blade done before checking & after garment make ]
w Wedge Pack machine [ handy ]
w Needle Detector machine
w Bar tack machine
w Collar Attachment
w Label Fusing Machine
w Carton Packing machine [ strapping the carton ]
w Easy loading of containers onto vans
w Elastic Attachment Machine


Production Planning & Control
G.Ambikavathi [05F004]
Timings : 8.30 AM
10.00AM - Break 15minutes interval 12.45PM - Lunch Break
1.30 PM Work commences 3.00PM Tea break
5.45PM Shift
Weekly twice Over Time [OT] allowed
If a worker works for 2 hours during OT hours, them he will be prone to
get double salary.
Style picture & spec sheet issued to PM Dept
Lab dips & print or embroidery developed for buyers approval
Order details to CAD issued - marker & consumption
To manufacturer to book yarn or trims based on requirements.
To Sewing department for production planning & sequence
Pilot run inspection check - test results estimated
Quality checked pre-mid & final stages periodically
Export documents prepared for endorsement & shipping.

Schedule:

Line Balancing:
- to set the flow through each operation to be as similar as possible
- check from time to time how things are going
- even out the flow again
- each line 2 floaters
Plant Loading:
_ workers assigned work equally
_ the quality controller or Line supervisor is in-charge
_ If the worker is not able to complete his job, then he has to work extra hours. This is
not the incentive since it is his fault
Product Acceptance Sampling:
Pattern Approval
Size Set Sample
Initial Production Check
Buyer Author representatives



Record Maintenance

w Attendance record [ Finger thumbing ]
w Materials Inward/Outward
w Feeding Input/Output Record
w Stitching Input/Output Record
w Packing Input/Output Record
w Container Delivery note
w Salary record [ each worker department wise under the control of HRD]
w Provident fund record
w Machinery maintenance record
w Stores Record
w Vehicle Maintenance record [ 2 wheelers and 4 wheelers]
w Asset record
w General Service record [water, electricity, etc.]
w Visitors Record

Softwares in Production Planning and Control
Cutting Department: AutoCAD Lectra, Gurber
Sewing Department to Container/Finishing Department:
ERP Sap Software
The details cannot be traced out
One cannot enter anything of ones own wish.

Administrative Aspects
Procedure for receiving the order:

price
negotiation
finalization
sample satisfaction
factory inspection
acceptance
order placement
company visit by buyer production
Dispatching Formalities Procedure

Export Officer
Order sheet, LC requisition, LC Receipt Request from finishing department for
Endorsement

Endorsement preparation (invoice, shipping bill filed with AEPC)

Cargo movement msg (ready for shipment) Customs documentation preparation

Filing with customs Preparation of GSP approved by the textile committee

Original document to buyer (air/sea) Bank Attested invoice

Proof of shipment given to AEPC
Merchandiser
Objectives:
w Co-ordinate with buyers
w Time and action plan
w Maintain quality
Roles played by the merchandiser:
w Garment costing
w Prepares all types of samples for approval
w Material requirement planning and sales confirmation
w Marketing
w Negotiation with buyers







Few Garment Styles
SEWING AND CUTTING



CHECKING AND PACKING


QUALITY CHECK AND STANDARD TESTING



Conclusion
Change is the only constant factor in the fashion industry.
With a deeper understanding of this fact, Stallion is receptive
to change and to adequately satisfy the requirements of its
fashion conscious customers.
Each Garments that leaves the factory is thoroughly checked
at every stage.
The in plant training has imposed more knowledge about the
procedures in the apparel unit.

Thank You