SINGLE PLY CUTTING DEVICES

Round Knife, Scissor, Laser Cutter,End cutter

Presented By: Richa Jain DFT-IV Roll No.:16

ROUND KNIFE
These knives use rotating circular blade therefore are refered to as rotary knives. These are the smallest blade used for cutting single plies and for cutting fabric plies to length during manual spreading. Blade diameters vary from 6 cm to 20 cm Depending on the size of the device it is possible to cut to a depth of 10 mm. Round blade cut with a downward turn at the leading edge. The cutting capacity or the speed height is determined by the radius of the blade ,motor size and speed.

CONT

Knives with smaller diameter blades are termed electric shears and are used for cutting simple pieces of fabric Round knives are not suitable for cutting curved lines in high lays because the blade does not strike all the plies simultaneously at the same point as a vertical blade does. Larger round knives are used mainly for dividing a lay into sections Therefore a round knife is used only for straight lines or lower lays of relatively few plies and large radius curves. It is naturally much more difficult for a circular blade to negotiate a tight curve, such as an armhole.

ROUND KNIFE

PARTS OT THE ROUND KNIFE

Motor:helps in rotating the blade at high speed. Handle: use to pick up the machine Switch:to turn the machine on and off. Blade guard :it is in front of the blade and protects the blade. Blade:cuts the fabric. Base plate:sits under the first ply of the fabric and the other fabric plies slip over it as the machine is moved. Blade housing:consists of the blade and the blade guard assembly.

CONT

The elements of a round knife are a base plate , above which is mounted an electric motor. The support column and the base plate contains the axle and a drive of a circular rotating blade .it is guided at the rear and exposed on the front of the machine. Again a centrally mounted handle is gripped by the operator to support and guide the machine through the work.

TYPES OF BLADE
STRAIGHT EDGE SINGLE/DOUBLE BEVEL WAVY EDGE SCALLOP EDGE/CONCAVE EDGE

ADVANTAGES
Larger surface area in contact with the fabric, so better grip. It is a fast machine .They can operate at higher speed than straight knife having greater mass of blade to absorb friction. Excellent for cutting straight lines or gradual curve. It is also suitable for the lays which are thinner than one quarter diameter of the blade. They are used to separate the big parts and separate the blocks of fabric from relatively small height lay,

DISADVANTAGES
Difficult to cut small parts. V-necks, scoop necks, steep curve cutting is almost impossible. Ply cutting is staggered (not uniform in all plies) Not suitable for mass production Cutting notches and corners is difficult. Knife clearance area (KCA) required is very high Lay height should not be more than the radius of blade Costlier than straight knife Changing of blade is difficult It is difficult for a circular blade to negotiate a tight curve, such as an arm hole.

SPECIFICATIONS
Model

No. 534 Speed: Single Weight: 16lbs., 7.26kg. Power: .20hp - .34 hp Blade sizes: 4 (10.2cm) Cutting capacity: 2.125 (5.40cm) Blade types: Double Bevel Teflon coated Carbon steel High speed steel Slotted Grooved

CHOOSING THE RIGHT ROUND KNIFE

Power: A variety of power ranges are available, from lightweight to super duty. These options allow the round knives to cut a wide variety of materials such as silk, cotton, canvas, denim and coated fabrics.

Blade size Round knives are available with 3.25-inch, 4-inch, 5.25-inch, 6-inch, 7.5-inch and 9-inch blade sizes. Select the smallest blade size that will handle the current and anticipated maximum cutting height. The smaller the blade size, the easier it is to handle .

Blade type Durable carbon steel blades are standard. Optional high-steel blades cut large lays of heavy materials (or whenever extra blade life is desired). Grooves and Teflon-coated blades are available to reduce blade heat and eliminate fusing problems.
Sharpening stone type Specifically designed sharpening stones create a perfect double-bevel edge on the blade that eliminates the need for a shear plate to support the machine's cutting action. There are three grits of sharpening stones available: 120 Grit: For heavy dense materials such as denims and canvas. 150 Grit: For medium density materials or when cutting a variety of fabric types. 220 Grit: For fine, sheet or loosely woven materials

Model No.
Speed Weight Power Blade sizes

534
Single 16lbs., 7.26kg.

548
Single 21lbs., 9.52kg.

562
Single Dual (optional) 30lbs., 13.6kg.

567
Single Dual (optional) 36lbs., 16.3kg.

.20hp - .34 hp 4 (10.2cm)

.34hp - .48 hp 4", 5.25", 6" (10.2, 13.3, 15.2 cm) 2.125", 3.125", 3.5" (5.4, 7.95, 8.89 cm)

.65 hp - .93 hp 6, 7.5 (15.2, 19.1 cm) 5, 5.75 (12.7, 14.6 cm)

1.25hp 2.2 hp 6, 7.5 (15.2, 19.1 cm) 5, 5.75 (12.7, 14.6 cm)

Cutting capacity Blade types:

Double Bevel Teflon coated Carbon steel High speed steel Slotted Grooved

2.125 (5.40cm)

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COMPARISON WITH STRAIGHT KNIFE

The basic difference between the rotary and straight machines are the blade shape and blade thrust. The rotary cutting machine has a circular knife whose edge rotates counterclockwise into the superposed plies as the machine is propelled laterally into the spread.-This cuts the fabric with one way thrust of the blade edge, whereas the straight knife cuts with a two way thrust ,up and down.

HAND OPERATED SCISSOR

Fabric scissors are scissors with extremely sharp blades made for cutting fabric. Technically, those shorter than six inches (15.24 cm) are called fabric scissors while longer scissors are called fabric shears, but the terms are often used interchangeably. Some types of scissors have specially shaped blades that make them suitable for specialized sewing jobs

CONT
High quality fabric scissors have tempered steel or stainless steel blades that create an even cut along the entire length of the blade, all the way to the tips In some models, the blades are very slightly beveled to create sharper cutting edges. Some models have micro-serrated blades for the same reason.

CONT..
The blades are joined with a tiny screw, not a rivet, in good quality fabric scissors. This means that the scissors can be adjusted or repaired if they are damaged. The screw can also be lubricated with sewing machine oil. Many types of scissors are available to suit the needs and preferences of sewers. Scissors designed for left-handed sewers are very helpful. Scissors with cushioned handles are especially comfortable for sewers with arthritic fingers. Some scissors have the blades set at an angle, so they can remain flat on the cutting surface during use.

HAND

SHEARS

Hand shears are normally used when cutting only single or double plies. The lower blade of the shears passes under the plies, but the subsequent distortion of the fabric is only temporary and accurate cutting to the line can be achieved with practice. Left-handed shears are available since the cutting line will not be seen easily if right handed shears are used by a left-handed person Blade length- 8"-14

END CUTTER
End cutter provides fast and perfectly straight end cutting with the assistance of a guide for ultimate accuracy. They are available in manually operated or automatic configurations. They are supplied with clamping bracket that makes it possible to attach to most standard cutting tables

MANUAL END CUTTER

Track guide Lift mechanism

Handle

MACHINE SPECIFICATIONS

Table Widths Available: 48" - 144", 1.22 m - 3.66 m Blade Size: 4", 10.2 cm Cutting Capacity: 1 1/4", 3.20 cm

ADVANTAGES
Single ply cut off with high torque motor. Quick lift lifting for manual spreading of heavy goods . Easy to lift the tracks between the spreads. Glide track allows the cutting head to move effortlessly across the track reducing operator stress. Perfectly straight line cutting on a guided track. It reduces fabric wastage. Powerful and versatile cut-off machine

AUTOMATIC END CUTTER

The Auto control panel includes controls for: oAutomatic Cutting Cycle on/off oCutting Width oTrack Speed oPly Counter oBlade Sharpening

ADVANTAGES The time-saving advantages of automatic operation . The travel of the Auto Track's cutting head across the track can be adjusted. The elevating and lowering of the track-lifting mechanism are motorized.

MACHINE SPECIFICATIONS
Table Widths Available: 48" - 144", 1.22 m - 3.66 m

Blade Size:

4", 10.2 cm

Cutting Capacity:

1 1/4", 3.20 cm

ADVANTAGE

Almost every type of cloth can be cut by scissor. Scissors are mainly used for cutting single ply fabric. Appropriate for made-to-measure garments They are flexible enough to accommodate any fabric construction and pattern shape. Very portable Easily available Easy to handle Suitable for both left and right handed people No electricity

Disadvantage

It takes huge time for fabric cutting It is impossible to cut the fabric lay of any height High labour cost per garment.

LASER CUTTER
LASER stands for Light Amplification by Stimulated Emission of Radiation The highly concentrated beam of light it produces can quickly apply energy even to a minute area.

LASER CUTTING
Laser cutting works by directing the output of a high power laser, by computer, at the fabric to be cut. The material then either melts, burns, vaporizes away, or is blown away by a jet of gas, leaving an edge with a high quality surface finish. Provides quick accurate cuts Produce cuts by focussing beam of monochromatic light on very small area(.25mm),producing a very high density. Energy transfers to the material increasing its temperature. The laser beam is typically 0.2 mm (0.008 in) diameter at the cutting surface with a power of 1000 to 2000 watts.

PRINCIPLE
A laser produces a beam of light which can be forced onto a very small spot (O.25mm), producing a very high energy density. The energy transfers to the material upon which it is focused, producing a rapid increase in temperature. Cutting takes place by vaporization. Charring of the fabric is prevented by the use of a jet of inert gas which also removes debris & smoke from the cutting area. A laser beam does not become blunt but it does suffer with limited depth of focus.

PARTS OF MACHINE
Stationary gas laser Cutting head:focusing optics,high pressure gas ,nozzle A computer A method to remove cut parts

HOW A LASER CUTTER WORKS

The

laser cutter is connected to a computer via an Ethernet or USB connection. A print driver, provided with the laser, is installed on the computer. In graphic software, shape to be cut is drawn or imported

Material to be cut is placed on the laser table a speed and power in the print driver for the material you are cutting is set, and send it to the laser The laser will automatically adjust to the correct height based on the thickness of the material you are cutting or engraving.

Clip art, AutoCAD images, coral draw images etc are supported on all laser cutting machines

HOW LASER BEAM CUTS?

Beam

from laser is directed by a series of reflective mirrors to a cutting head which contains a focusing optic Focus lens focuses beam to a small spot, which is positioned in proximity to the surface of work piece The material then either melts, burns or vaporizes away leaving an edge with a high quality surface finish. Once zone of molten,vaporized material is created, a jet of assist gas is delivered through cutting nozzle to eject cut material

USES
In garment industry for natural and synthetic fabrics,leather and glass fibre. In sail making industry Cutting and trimming of fabric for carpets in automotive and aircraft industry Best results while cutting single ply

Production of patterns, labels and appliqus, often in conjunction with embroidery. There is a potential growth area with customised garments, particularly if the concept of mass customisation becomes popular.

ADVANTAGES
lack of physical contact Precision no wear on the laser. In case of synthetics,cut edge is sealed ,thus no fraying Very high speed cutting Suitable for single ply Very active & fast cutting by computer controlled system. Suitable for very large-scale production. Speed of cutting can be controlled. Cutting defects are less than other. Less labor cost.

DISADVANTAGES
High energy required May lead to edge fusing. Limited depth of focus While cutting several plies, cut isnt a straight line Speed slows due to movement of carriage bearing mirrors Possibily of burning Very expensive machine. Higher maintenance cost. Not suitable for multi layer

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REFENCES Books refered: Carr & Lathams Technology of Clothing Manufacture Glock & Kunz Apparel Manufacturing Sewn Product Analysis Solinger Apparel Manufacturing Handbook pg: Machine Manuals Websites refered: www.wikipedia.org www.scribd.com

Thank you!!!