Puckering Problem on Power Strech Fabrics & Garments

Puckering is seen on highelastic garments, especially on bartack and fly areas, zippers, binding tapes etc.

After the analyses of puckering areas , we see that corespun yarn lost spandex from inside. The trials shows that the elastane could move up to 2cm inside corespun weft, especially after dyeing & washing treatments Lowering the elasticity of the fabric or garment helps solving puckering. But to maintain no puckering, elasticity levels should be decreased dramatically.

Hyosung; one of the elastane manufacturer, also studied about puckering and according to their analyses, there is no elastane breakages in the yarn and there are no big differences in physical properties of elastane between puckering and normal part.

Spandex Strength [g] Length [mm] Weight [mg] Denier Elongation [%] 200%M [gr]

Garment

Av 96 Normal Range 2 Av 93 Puckering Range 3 0.05 5.1 0.39 37.9 0.06 5.3 0.40 37.3

79.8

369

19.8

13.5

32

1.5

73.9

352

20.3

24.9

75

3.5

How To Solve Puckering Problem

Puckering problem is a result of high elastic characteristics of yarns & fabrics produced with elastane(spandex) To minimize puckering, elasticity should also be minimized. But this will effect all comfort properties of the product. Besides lowering elasticity some actions in cutting, sewing, laundry processes needed not to have problem. Powerstrech fabrics always need careful attention in all cutting &sewing&washing&dying&drying processes.

SEWING The crotch area is prevelant for puckering. This is due to elastane movement and tension difference after multi-layers of fabric. We recommend the following actions: 1. Decrease SPI to 8. 2. Increase seam allowance 3. Change construction of front crotch (this is an effort to hold/stabalize the elastane.) 4. Try clean finish instead of overlock 5. If using overlock, increase this SPI on inside crotch from 10 20 6. Change top stitch to 1/4 from 1/8 at crotch. Bartacks in general should be taken out.

Increase seam allowance of busted side seams 1/8 more on either side. Increase SPI of busted outseam overlock from 10 to 20 attempting to hold elastane.

Change construction to 5 thread overlock closed seam with tight SPI.

Take top stitch off inseam Fabric layers on edges must be sewed together with overlock sticthing. If overlock stitching is already done, a tighter overlock would be more helpful. Transition from lower fabric layers to higher layers (or vice versa) transitions must be smooth. This means it is not good that the stitch passes through 2 layers to 8 layers of fabric. (vice versa) Some parts of the pattern can be adjusted longer and this pass can be; 2 layers -> 4 layers -> 6 layers -> 8 layers (Especially on the button fly or zipper fly)

Stitch tension must be lower on more layered parts.

Sewing labels after washing would be helpful We recommend SES or SPI type needles. SPI gives better performance but the strength of SES is better. Preferred needle type is Groz-Beckert SAN6.

With narrow seam allowances puckering seen more.

Very narrow seam allowance on the crotch area increasing puckering. After fabric layer combinations puckering seen more.

Clean finish on the crotch area helps decreasing puckering effect. As the seam allowance increases too.

Clean finish on the crotch area helps decreasing puckering effect. As the seam allowance increases too.

Analyses shows that dyeing & drying temperatures effects puckering. Higher temperatures results more puckering. As Orta PFD flat fabrics doesnt have sizing chemical, there is no desizing needed. Desizing process increases the puckering effect Longer wash&dye treatment times increases puckering. More than 60C is not recommended for dyeing & drying. Low temperature dye processes and low temperature drying should be applied

Mannequins (robots) should not be used for some processes in between production or end of production. The tension on the fabric is effecting elastane move inside the corespun yarn.