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STE 3205

KOCEK
KOCEK
MENGENAL PASTI 2 JENIS KOCEK

MEMBANDING BEZA KAN CARA MENJAHIT
KOCEK TAMPAL DAN KOCEK TERSEMBUNYI

MENGAPLIKASIKAN KOCEK PADA PAKAIAN
DENGAN SESUAI

JENIS KOCEK
KOCEK TERSEMBUNYI
LANGKAH 1
Step 1: Mark the position of
your pocket with chalk or
washable fabric pen on the
RIGHT SIDE of the fabric. I
will refer to this mark as the
"pocket line". Unless the whole
fabric piece is already
interfaced, cut a square of
interfacing 2" longer that your
pocket length, and 2" wide.
Fuse it to the back of the
fabric, centering it over the
pocket line.
LANGKAH 2
Step 2: Line the two fabric
strips up along the length
of the pocket line,
centering them (each strip
will stick on 1" from the
end of the pocket-to-be).
The top of the bottom
strip should sit on the
pocket line, as well as the
bottom of the top strip.
Remember you are
pinning them to the
RIGHT SIDE of the fabric.
LANGKAH 3
Step 3: Stitch along
each strip, 1/4"
away from the
pocket line, leaving
the extra inch on
the end free. The
stitching is hard to
see in this photo,
see below.
LANGKAH 4
Step 4: Slash the
pocket open. The
yellow indicates the
slash line. Notice the
"V" at each end. Start
the "V" about 1/4-1/2"
away from the end of
the pocket line.
LANGKAH5
Step 5: Push one of
the fabric strips to
the back side,
folding it over the
seam allowance to
form the welt. Pin
in place.
LANGKAH 6
Step 6: Push the
other fabric strip to
the back, again
folding it over the
seam allowance to
form the welt. Pin
in place, and press.

LANGKAH 7
Step 7: If you want to
attach a button loop or a
flap, do so now. Pull the
welt seam allowance out
away from the rest of the
fabric so you can work.
Center the loop on the
bottom welt as shown,
and baste in place in the
seam allowance. To add
a flap, baste the flap to
the seam allowance of the
top welt. Note that the
flap has to be the same
width (not wider) than the
pocket.
LANGKAH 8
Step 8: Pin the small
pocket piece to the
seam allowance of
the bottom welt.
(Note this picture is
in the same
orientation as Step 7,
I've just placed the
pocket piece on top).
LANGKAH 9
Step 9: Sew the pocket to
the welt seam allowance
1/2" away from the edge.
If you pull back the
pocket, this is what
you see.
LANGKAH 10
Step 10: Pin the
larger pocket piece
to the top welt
seam allowance,
and sew 1/2" away
from the edge as
you did for the
other piece. Then
press both pocket
pieces away from
the welts, as
shown.
LANGKAH 11
Step 11: Flip over the whole piece,
and pin the pocket pieces away
from the welts and shown. Make
sure everything is pressed and
pinned tightly. Make sure the
little triangles you made in step 4
are properly pressed back and
out of sight. If you want to add
a zipper, baste the zipper
behind the welts at this point. Be
sure that the zipper pull is the
open space between the welts;
otherwise you will sew your
zipper closed in the next step.

LANGKAH 12
Step 12: "Stitch in the ditch"
around the whole pocket
opening. By this I mean
topstitch, but position the
stitching so it is in the seam
where the welts attach. This will
make the stitching next to
invisible. Be sure to pull the
fabric taught as you stitch.
At this step, the back of the pocket
looks like this. You can see the top
stitching a little on the green lining. If
you want to do a buttonhole, now
is the time to sew it in. Stitch in
buttonhole through the fabric and
pocket lining below the pocket opening.
You may want to use a square of
interfacing between the fabric and
pocket lining to reinforce the area, if
necessary
LANGKAG 13
Step 13: Put the ends of
your pocket pieces
together and stitch with
a 1/2" seam allowance.
Zig-zag stitch the edges
to keep them from
fraying. The seam may
not be at the exact
bottom of the pocket -
you can trim the ends of
the pocket pieces so they
line up, so you can press
the pocket so the seam is
on the side.
LANGKAH 14
Step 14: Press the
pocket out, making a
nice crease at the
bottom of the pocket.
Pin the pocket sides
together
LANGKAH 15
Step 15: Pull one of the
pocket sides out, and fold
the rest of the fabric back.
Starting at the top, stitch as
close as you can to the
pocket opening, being sure
to stitch through the welt
ends.
LANGKAH 16
Step 16: Repeat step 15 for
the other side of the
pocket.
LANGKAH 17
Step 17: Sew your button in
place. If you are using a
loop, but also a shankless
button, you may want to
sew it on using a thread
shank.