Paul Poiret (18791944)

He called himself the "King of Fashion,: freeing

women from corsets and further liberating them
through pantaloons.
Innovative cut and construction of clothing secured
his legacy
Could not sew.
Radical approach to dressmaking relying more on
the skills of draping directly onto the body, less than
on tailoring.
Focus is on his technical ingenuity and originality, Poirets modernity in relation
to and as an expression of the dominant influencesof the early 20th century,
including Cubism, Classicism, Orientalism, Symbolism, and Primitivism.

The exhibition made possible by Balenciaga. The Metropolitan Museum of Art,

New York

Paul Poiret

Georges Lepape (French, 18871971)

Hand-Colored Pochoir from Les choses
de Paul Poiret, 1911
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
The Irene Lewisohn Costume Reference
Library, Special Collections

Paul Poiret

Georges Lepape (French, 18871971)

Hand-Colored Pochoir from Les
choses de Paul Poiret, 1911
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New
York
The Irene Lewisohn Costume
Reference Library, Special Collections

Paul Poiret

Georges Lepape (French, 18871971)

"Serais-je en avance?" from Gazette
du bon ton, 1912
Gouache on paper
Collection of Karl Lagerfeld

Paul Poiret

Georges Lepape (French, 18871971)

"Laquelle?" from Gazette du bon ton,
September 1913
Hand-colored pochoir
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
The Irene Lewisohn Costume Reference
Library, Special Collections

Paul Poiret
Geisler & Baumann (American,
active 191314)
Denise Poiret at the Plaza
Hotel, New York, 1913
Photograph courtesy of Les
Arts Dcoratifs, Fonds
photographique patrimonial
UFAC conserv au Muse de
la Mode et du Textile, Paris.
All rights reserved 2007
Artists Rights Society (ARS),
New York/ADAGP, Paris

Paul Poiret
Textile design by Raoul Dufy
(French, 18791953)
La Perse" Coat Worn by Denise
Poiret, 1911
Ivory and blue-black block-printed
cotton velvet with brown rabbit trim
The Metropolitan Museum of Art,
New York
Friends of The Costume Institute
Gifts, 2005 (2005.199)

Paul Poiret
Fancy Dress Costume Probably Worn
to "The Thousand and Second Night"
Party, June 24, 1911
Green silk gauze and gold lam with blue
foil appliqu and gold, blue, pink, coral,
and turquoise celluloid-bead embroidery
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New
York
Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Trust, 1983
(1983.8a, b)

Paul Poiret
Opera Coat, 1912
Yellow satin, pale blue silk overlaid with
gold fil embroidery, and black silk
velvet
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New
York
Purchase, Irene Lewisohn Trust Gift,
1982 (1982.350.2)

Paul Poiret
"Thtre des Champs-lyses"
Evening Gown Worn by Denise Poiret,
1913
Gown of ivory silk damask and ivory silk
tulle overskirt with rhinestone embroidery;
headdress of green and black silk gauze
with rhinestone embroidery
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New
York
Paul D. Schurgot Foundation Fund, 2005
(2005.193ae)

Paul Poiret

"Pr Catelan" Evening Coat Worn by

Denise Poiret, 1918
Black silk and gold striped lam
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New
York
Milla Davenport and Zipporah Fleisher
Fund, 2005 (2005.205)

Paul Poiret

Coat, 1919
Black wool faille with white kid cutwork
appliqu and white shearling trim
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
Gift of Mrs. David J. Colton, 1961
(C.I.61.40.4)

Paul Poiret
"Paris" Evening Coat Worn by
Denise Poiret, 1919
Brown silk velvet with placket of red and
blue wool and couched gilt-silver
cording
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New
York
Purchase, Friends of The Costume
Institute Gifts, 2005 (2005.207)

Paul Poiret
"Bois de Boulogne" Dinner Dress Worn
by Denise Poiret, 1919
Textile design by Raoul Dufy (French, 1877
1953) Textile manufacture by BianchiniFrier (French, founded 1880) Printed
polychrome silk, black silk tulle, and black
silk broadcloth
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York
Milla Davenport and Zipporah Fleisher
Fund, 2005 (2005.197ac)

Paul Poiret

Nightdress Worn by Denise

Poiret, ca. 1920
Pink cotton
The Metropolitan Museum of Art,
New York
Gift of the Catharine Breyer Van
Bomel Foundation Fund, 2005
(2005.195)

Paul Poiret

"Irudre" Evening Gown, ca. 1922

Gold lam
The Metropolitan Museum of Art,
New York
Purchase, Friends of The Costume
Institute Gifts, 2007 (2007.146)

Paul Poiret

Dress, ca. 192223

Navy and red block-printed silk faille
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York

Gift of Mrs. Muriel Draper, 1943

(C.I.43.85.2a, b)

Paul Poiret
"Le Bal" Shoes Worn by
Denise Poiret, 1924
Leather with polychrome
seed-bead embroidery
The Metropolitan
Museum of Art, New York
Purchase, Friends of The
Costume Institute Gifts,
2005 (2005.192a, b)

Paul Poiret

"Bouclier" Day Dress, 1925

Navy wool, red wool, and ivory cotton
with applied red ribbon and printed
trompe l'oeil placket with button motif
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New
York
Gift of Mrs. Alfred Rheinstein, 1950
(C.I.50.117)