Lace Makingis a technique for handcrafting a

particularly durablelaceconstructed by a series ofknots

andloops.Lace Making can be used to make lace
edging as well asdoilies,collars, and other decorative
pieces. The lace is formed by a pattern of rings and
chains formed from a series ofcow hitch, orhalfhitchknots, called double stitches (ds), over a
corethread. Gaps can be left between the stitches to
formpicots, which are used for practical construction as
wellasdecorativeeffect.
LaceMakingdatestotheearly19thcentury.Thetermfor
Lace Making in most European languages is derived
fromFrenchfrivolit,whichreferstothepurelydecorative
nature of the textiles produced by this technique. The
techniquewasdevelopedtoimitatepointlace
InGermanLaceMakingiscalledSchiffchenarbeit,which
means the work of the little boat, referring to the boatshaped shuttle, and in Italian Lace Making is
calledchiacchierino,whichmeanschatty.

Types of Laces

Hand Made Laces

Machine made Laces

Bobbin lace:Sometimes called pillow lace, the lace design is drawn

either on pillow or on a paper that is placed over the pillow. Small pegs
or pins are stuck into the pillow along the design, and a large number of
small bobbins of thread are manipulated around the pegs or pins to
produce the lace. A number of threads, each on its own bobbin, are
interlaced by twisting and plaiting around the pins to produce the motif
in a mesh construction. As the lace is completed, the pins are pulled out
and the lace is removed from the pillow. Making pillow lace requires
great skill and dexterity, for as many as three hundred bobbins may be
needed to make some patterns.
Darned lace:It has a design darned by a chain stitch onto a mesh
background. When made by hand, the design of darned lace is sewn
with thread and needle passed in and out of a mesh net. There are two
principal types of darned laceAntique lace Has a darned lace pattern on a rectangular mesh ground.
Filet lace Has a darned lace design on a square mesh ground.
Needle point lace:The design for needle point is drawn on parchment
stitched to a backing of stout linen, and the lace is made by filling in the
pattern with button hole stitches. When the lace is completed, the
parchment is removed. Needle point lace is made entirely with a sewing
needle and thread. A design is drawn on paper, thread is laid over the
design, and the thread is then sewn in place with button hole and
blanket stitches.
Crochet lace:When handmade, this is made with a crochet hook, to
form a series of loops, each one of which is finished with a fine stitch,
working usually with specially twisted cotton thread. It originated in
Ireland as an imitation of Venetian needle point. It is a comparatively
inexpensive heavy lace. Irish crocheted lace is typified by a rose or
shamrock design that stands out from the background.
Tatting lace or Knotted lace:This is made by twisting and knotting
thread by means of a small shuttle. When made by pass in a shuttle in
and out of loops in a thread, it is called tatting. It is identified by a circle
like motif and picots around the edges of the motif. Clover leaf and
wheel designs are the most popular, but other patterns are also made.

 Nearly all the laces classified as real laces can be duplicated by

machine with slight variations and simplifications.

Leavers lace:The leavers lace machine can produce the most

intricate patterns from any type of yarn into fabrics up to ten

yards wide. It is huge, complex machine that takes an operator
two to three weeks to thread. Very thin, round, brass bobbins
containing up to 300 yds each are individually conveyed by
carriages moving back and forth from one warp to another. As
each bobbin is moved to a predetermined position, it swings
between the warp yarns and wraps its yarn around one warp
before it is moved to another. Since there are about 20 bobbins
per inch, very intricate designs are possible. The fabrics can be
fairly expensive. Leavers lace is used to a great extent in the
dress industry.
Nottingham

Lace:The Nottingham machine originated in

Nottingham, England. It also utilizes swinging brass bobbins but
produces a flat lace that is coarser than leavers lace. Its large
overall patterns are used for such purposes as table cloths.

Bobbin lace:The bobbin machine employs the braiding principle.

The lace produced has a fairly heavy texture, with an angular

appearance and a uniform count. Bobbin lace lacks the fine
texture and flowing lines of the laces produced by other machines.
Raschel lace:Knitting machines can be constructed to make lace

resembling levers and crocheted laces. The Raschel machine,

which has its needles set horizontally instead of vertically as for
knitting, can produce at high speed inexpensive lace fabrics of
man-made filament yarns.
Ratine lace:It is a machine made lace that has a ground of

heavy loops resembling that of terry cloth.

Uses of Laces
All-over laces:Analloverlaceisafabricupto36widthwiththe

designorpatternspreadoverthewidthofthefabricandrepeated
initslength.Manykindsofdesignmotifsandcolorsareused.The
fabric can be produced in widths of over one yard (1m) that are
devoid of scallops. The fabric is cut and solid from the bolt like
wovendressgoods.Thedressmakercutsittopatternandmakes
itupintoformalevening,dinner,andcocktaildressandblouses.
Flouncing: Flouncingappliestolaces 18to36incheswidewitha
plain edge at the top and a scalloped edge at the bottom of the
fabric.Itisusedforwiderufflesorflounces.Oftentheseflounces
arearrangedintierstoformaskirt.
Gallon: Agalloonisalaceupto18incheswidewithascalloped
edge at top and bottom.Itmay beusedasaninsertionbetween
twocutedgesoffabric.
Insertion:Insertionisabandoflacesewnbetweentwopiecesof
fabric or on a single piece of fabric at the straight top or bottom
edges.Avarietyofinsertionisfooting,whichhasastraightedge
at top and bottom but no patterns. Footing is often used at the
bodiceoratthebottomhemofaslip.
Beading: Beading has slots through which ribbon may be run.
These slots may be found in edgings or galloons but are much
morecommonininsertions.
Edging: An edging is a lace never more than 18 wide that is
straight at the top and scalloped at the bottom. It is sewn to the
edgeofadress,gown,blouse,handkerchief,orlingerie.
Medallion: A medallion is a lace in a single design that can be
appliqud to a fabric ground for ornamentation. It is sometimes
usedinthecornersofnapkins,ortowelsorasanornamentfora
dress,blouseorlingerie.

All lace should be hand washed using

cool water and a mild detergent. If the
item is a garment, button and zip
completely to avoid snags that can
tear the lace netting. Avoid vigorous
scrubbing which will distort the fibers.
If you have an heirloom lace
tablecloth that needs cleaning, you
can make it more stable by basting it
with white cotton thread to an old
white cotton sheet. Wash the
stabilized cloth by hand, rinse well
and air dry. Remove the sheet by
pulling the basting thread and store
your clean, lace cloth.
Lace should be air dried or dried flat,
never in thedryer. Delicate pieces
may need to be reshaped during
drying. If ironing is needed, place a
thick white towel over the ironing
board and use a press cloth between
the iron and the lace. This will prevent
crushing the details of the lace and
prevent snags that can rip or tear.