INTRODUCTION
Testing has never been more important in textile industry
than at present, with the increasing accent and premium
on high quality products, whether it is for domestic markets
or export trade
Textile testing is carried out in fibre, yarn, fabric and
sometimes in garment stage.
There are numerous testing techniques in use throughout
the textile industry.
For any technique selection of a sample to be tested
is very important
SAMPLING:
The selection of small quantity of material to be tested
is known as sampling. As textile testing is both
time consuming and destructive in nature in many cases,
it is necessary that we select samples for conducting
tests for various quality characteristics
Sampling Procedure:
Since only a small sample from a lot is tested for estimating
the properties of the lot, it is essential that the sample
so drawn should be truly representative of the lot.
In the Textile Industry, sampling of cotton has to be carried out
at three distinct stages
1. Bulk Samples
2. Basic Samples
3. Laboratory samples
Bulk
B Sample: Sampling taken from the Bales
u
When
a large no. of bales of cotton belonging to a variety
l
isk purchased, a few bales may be chosen at random as
representing the bulk.
Bulk Size (Bales)
Up to 50
51-100
101-150
151-300
2
4
7
13
Basic Sample:
Basic sample is prepared from the chosen bales
Draw handful of cotton from different places of the bales
so that a representative sample is drawn. These tufts of fibres
may be mixed up thoroughly to form a homogenous sample.
Finally homogenous samples prepared from all the bales
are pooled together to form one representative sample of the
Whole bulk.
The total quantity of sample prepared should be about 1 Kg.
Laboratory sample:
The final sample on which the tests are to be carried out is
called the laboratory sample which is drawn from the
Basic sample.
The basic sample is divided in to 32 equal parts and
small tufts of fibres are drawn from each part
to form a small sample weighing 200 to 500mg.
The sample so drawn is opened and drafted several times
to form a representative sample for performing
laboratory tests like fibres length, fineness and maturity.
No. of test
2patterns/sample
2patterns/sample
4 plugs/sample
10 breaks/sample
600 fibres /sample
CD% Instrument
4
4
6
5
7
Baer Sorter
Baer Sorter
Micronaire
Stelometer or Pressly
Microscope
Example:
Data of span length of two types of cotton
Cotton A - 35mm
Cotton B - 31mm
Difference between A &B = 4mm
The CD = % of the mean of A&B
Mean of A&B = 35+31 = 33mm
2
CD % = 33 x 4 = 1.32mm
100
Since the CD of Cotton A (4mm) is greater than
the CD of 1.32mm, Cotton A is longer than Cotton B.
Testing Atmosphere:
As many of the important properties of a textile fibre are
influenced by the ambient atmospheric conditions, the
following standard atmosphere is adopted for testing
textile materials:
65% + 2% Relative Humidity and
27o C + 2o C Temperature
The sample should be conditioned at least for 18 to 24 hours
before commencing the test.
Where
FIBRE LENGTH
Length of staple fibre is one of the most important
characteristics.
The length and finess are sometimes related in natural fibres
whereas for man made fibres, length and fineness can be
controlled separately.
The cut length of manmade fibres is often influenced by the
Fibre length of natural fibres.
Combsorter Method:
This is the method in which distribution of
different length groups of fibres,
can be judged visually and numerically.
It is much less laborious than single fibre method
but gives a fairly accurate measurement when followed
properly.
In this method, a cotton sample of around 15gm is chosen
to represent the bulk. Generally in 15gm of cotton there are
around 3000 hairs.
1. Baer sorter
2. Comb sorter
Where, the working principle is the same for both.
The instrument consists of a bed of 9 bottom combs
and 8 top combs which control the fibres and enable
the sample to be fractionalised in to length groups
The hairs are pulled down from the tufts by means of grip,
the longest first, the combs being successively dropped
as required and combed, straightened and laid down
on velvet pad with the straight edge against the marked line.
Maximum length:
The length OA can be measured by scale from the tracing.
Effective length:
A geometric construction over the area of sorter diagram
will give the effective length of the fibre. It is the length which
contributes more effectively in the yarn formation.
Percent short fibres:
Percent short fibres = RB x 100, where OB is the total
length of the OB diagram.
FIBRE STRENGTH:
Fibre strength is generally considered to be next to
fibre length and fineness in the order of importance amongst
fibre properties.
Fibre strength denotes the maximum tension the
fibre is able to sustain before breaking.
It can be expressed as breaking strength or load, tenacity etc.
Elongation denotes elongation percentage of fibre at break.
FIBRE FINENESS:
The mass of a known length of fibre is termed as
linear density and this can be expressed as weight per
unit length.
Widely used units are:
Micron Microgram /Inch
Denier Weight in grams of 9000meters
Tex Weight in grams of 1000 meters
Decitex Weight in grams of 10,000meters.
Microscopic method:
In this method, fibres are mounted on the microscope and the
diameter is measured after magnification. This methos is
widely used for wool fibres and man made fibres having
circular diameter.
To avoid error due to swelling, the mounting medium like
Liquid paraffin can be used for effective results.
The latest instruments can measure the diameters of
5000-10000 samples in a minute by using micro processor.
It can calculate linear density also along with fineness.
FIBRE MATURITY:
A measure to express the development of cotton fibres.
The maturity can vary within fibres of the same seed.
A cotton fibre consists of a cuticle, a primary wall and
secondary wall surrounding the lumen or central canal.
The growth of secondary cell wall i.e., deposition of
cellulose in a fibre is the reason for variation in maturity.
This growth is dependent on the fertilizer used in cotton plant,
weather etc.
The material with higher number of immature fibres causes
fibre damages during processing causing
higher number of neps and irregular absorption of dyes.
MOISTURE TESTING:
Some properties of the textile fibres like strength,
Extension and electric conductivity are being affected
by the presence of moisture in the material
Most of the textile fibres are hygroscopic in nature.
They have the capacity to absorb moisture from the
atmosphere.
The amount of moisture present in a cotton sample
can be expressed in two ways.
1. Moisture content (M)
2. Moisture regain (R)
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