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Fiber structure
Physical attributes
Fiber length
Staple fibers
Filament fibers- silk
Fiber shape- fiber cross-sectional shape influences the way light is reflected
from the surface. A flat surface fiber has more luster than a round one. A
round fiber reflects light is one general direction, causing a shiny surface.
A multi lobal shaped fiber tends to scatter the light, causing the diffuse glow
with sparkles.
Irregular cross-section scatters light in many directions, resulting a dullish
appearance.
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Essential properties
Abrasion Resistance- is the ability to resist wear from rubbing that contributes to
fabric durability.
Exp- Nylon is used extensively in action outerwear, such as ski jackets , and soccer
shorts, because it is very strong and resist abrasion .
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Hydrophilic fibers- all natural animal and vegetable fibers and two manufactured
fibers, rayon and acetate.
Hydrophobic fibers- fibers that have difficulty absorbing water and are only able to
absorb small amounts .
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Cover- cover is the ability to occupy an area. A thick fiber or one with crimp or curl
gives fabric better cover than a thin, straight fiber.
Elasticity- is the ability to increase in length when under tension (elongation ) and
then return to the original length when released (recovery)
Lengthening when tension is placed on the fiber or fabric makes for a more
comfortable garment and causes less seam stress.
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Wool garments needs to be mothproofed when stored because they are susceptible
to damage by these wool eating insects.
Nylon and silk show strength losses from extended exposure to sunlight. Therefore ,
they are normally not used for curtains and drapes.
Cotton has poor resistance to mildew and should not be allowed to remain wet for
long periods of time.
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Flame-resistant fibers- have a relatively high ignition temperature and slow rate of
burning .
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Flexibility- is the capability of fibers to bend easily and repeatedly without breaking.
Hand- is the way a fiber, yarn or fabric feels when handled. The hand of the fiber is
affected by its shape, surface and configuration .
Luster- refers to the light reflected from a surface. Various characteristics of a fiber
effect the amount of luster.
Increased light reflection occurs from a smoother surface, less crimp, flatter cross
sectional shape and longer fiber length.
Pilling- is the formation of groups of short or broken fibers on the surface of a fabric
that are tangled together in the shape of tiny ball called pill.
Resiliency- is the capability of a material to spring back to shape after being creased,
twisted or distorted.
A fabric that has good resiliency does not wrinkle easily
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Specific gravity- is the ratio of the mass of the fiber to an equal volume of water at
4degree c .
Static Electricity- is a frictional electric charge caused by the rubbing together of two
dissimilar materials.
Tenacity- the force needed to break the fiber, is known as tenacity and expressed in
grams per denier or grams per fiber weight.
Glass, Nylon and Polyester are very strong. Acetate and acrylic are weak.
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Wicking- is the ability of fiber to transfer moisture from one section to another.
Usually the moisture is along the fiber surface, but it may also pass through the fiber
when a liquid is absorbed by the fiber.
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scan
Molecular
arrangements in
fibers
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Longitudinal forms
and surface texture
of fibers
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Effects of external
features and delusterant
particles on fiber luster
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Texturizing yarns
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Texturizing yarns
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Developments of fibres
Till the beginning of 20th century all fibres in use were natural
Around 1891-92 the first man-made Artificial Silk (Viscose rayon) was
discovered
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Classification of fibres
Fibres
Natural
Man-made
Vegetable/Cellulosic
Cellulosic
Animal/Protein
Synthetic
Mineral
Protein
Mineral
Metallic
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Cellulosic fibres
Cellulosic fibres
Cotton
Hemp
Sisal
Jute
Flax
Sisal
Coir
Kenaf Products
Kenaf fibre
Pina
Banana
Bamboo
Hemp
Extraction of
Hemp filament bag
Banana fibre
Coir mat
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Cotton fibre
Jute
Cotton
Comfort factors
Cross section
and
longitudinal
view of cotton
fibre before
mercerization
Care factors
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Cotton fibre
Microscopic appearance
Crystallinity
Tensile strength: 3.5 g/d -4 g/d ( wet strength 4.5 g/d)
Elongation 3-7%
Hygroscopic nature
Chemical properties:
Effect of acids
Effect of alkalis
Effect of bleaches
Effect of sunlight
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Flax (Linen)
Comfort factors
Care factors
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Flax fibre
Microscopic appearance
Crystallinity more than cotton
Tensile strength: 3.5 g/d -5g/d Elongation 2%
Hygroscopic nature
Chemical properties:
Effect of acids
Effect of alkalis
Effect of bleaches
Effect of sunlight
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Properties
Cotton
Flax
Jute
Viscose
rayon
Composition
Cellulose
Cellulose
Cellulose
Cellulose
Tenacity, g/d
3-5
3.5-5
3.5-5
2.5 3
Elongation,
%
5%
2%
1.5-2%
16-18%
Moisture
Regain. %
8.5 %
7%
7%
12-14%
Thermal
properties
1500 C starts
discolouring,
doesnot melt
2800 C starts
discolouring,
doesnot melt
2800 C starts
discolouring,
doesnot melt
1500 C starts
discolouring,
doesnot melt
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Wool
Indian silk
Sheep/ lamb
Camel (alpaca)
Mulberry
Goat (mohair)
Tasar
Angora rabbit
Muga
Goat (Cashmere)
Chinese silk
Dupion silk
Spun silk
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Speciality hair
Wool
Care factors
SEM
image
of wool
Wool fibre
with natural
crimp
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Comfort factors
Wool -properties
Structure
Felting of wool: It is the irreversible shrinkage of the length, breadth or
thickness of the yarn. This is done by subjecting the woollen textile to
agitation in an aqueous solution.
Wool polymer: keratin ( repeating units: amino acids)
Cystine ( sulphur containing amino acids)
Crystallinity: 25-30 % crystalline
Tenacity: 1.4-2.4 g/d
Elongation: 25%
Moisture regain: 18-20%
Heat of wetting from dry to saturation ( joules per gram): 113
Thermal properties: poor conductor
Setting of wool
Temporary set
Permanent set
Chemical set
Chemical properties
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Silk
Comfort factors
Care factors
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Silk -properties
Structure
Silk polymer: Amino acids( 16 types. Wool- 20 types)
Crystallinity: 60-70% crystalline
Tenacity: 4.5 g/d
Elongation: 20%
Moisture regain: 11%
Thermal properties: poor conductor
Chemical properties
Degrades more readily by acids than wool ( acidic perspiration damages
silk)
Alkalis causes swelling and dissolution
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Angora
Angora
rabbits
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Angora wool
Cashmere
Properties
Care factors
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Alpaca
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Asbestos fibres
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Natural polymer
Synthetic polymer
Refractory
and related fibres
Regnerated cellulose
Polyesters
Carbon fibre
Cellulose acetate
Polyamides
Glass fibre
Regenerated protein
Polyurethane
Metallic fibres
Alginate, Chitosan
Polypropylene
Polyethylene
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Viscose rayon
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Polynosic
Modal
Lyocel
Viscose rayon
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Comfort factors
Care factors
Microscopic appearance
Crystallinity 35-40%
Tensile strength: 2.5 g/d -3 g/d ( wet strength 1.5 g/d)
Elongation 16-18%
Moisture regain: 12-14%
Chemical properties: More sensitive to acids than cotton
Effect of acids
Effect of alkalis
Effect of bleaches
Effect of sunlight
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Modal
Comfort factors
Care factors
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Lyocell
Cross
section of
lyocell
Comfort factors
Care factors
Surface
view of
lyocell
Fibrillation of lyocell fibre
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Cellulose acetate
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Comfort factors
Care factors
Applications
Microscopic appearance
Crystallinity : 40%
Tenacity: 2.5 g/d
Elongation 16-18%
Moisture regain: 6.5 %
Thermal properties: Heat sensitive, softens at 175-1900C
Chemical properties: More sensitive to acids than cotton
Effect of acids: Acids hydrolyze
Effect of alkalis: Resistant to alkalies
Effect of bleaches: Same as cotton fibres
Effect of sunlight:
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Soybean seeds
Soybean
fibre
products
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Antibacterial polyester
fibre (zeolite added)
Comfort factors
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Eskimotech
blanket from hollow
polyester fibre
Care factors
Easy care fibre
Polyester-properties
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Comfort factors
Nylon filament of
different cross-sectional
shapes
Care factors
Silver incorporated
antibacterial nylon
filament
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Nylon -properties
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Acrylic
Comfort factors
Care factors
Blankets
Modacrylic winterwear
Police vests
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Inflight products
Properties-acrylic
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Polarized microscope
image of PP filament
Carpets
PP products
Medical products
Grass mats
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Crop covers
Bags
Antiweed fabric
Properties -olefin
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UHMWPE
Polyurethane
Discovered in
1959 at Dupont
by Joseph
Shivers, spandex
sprang in the
market as an
replacement for
rubber
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Properties
Comfort factors
Care factors
Hot water should not be used during
laundering. Should not be exposed to direct
sunlight
Properties -Polyurethane
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Glass
Properties
- Brittle in nature
-
Applications
-
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Aircraft interiors
Glass reinforced composites
e.g. boat hulls, car bodies
Insulating material
Carbon fibres
Properties
Applications
Carbon fibre
Carbon nanotubes
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Carbon Fabric
Ceramic fibre
Properties:
Metallic fibre
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Comingled
conductive yarn
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Conventional fibres
Natural
e.g. cotton, wool, silk, jute, etc.
Applications
Apparel
Furnishings
Technical textiles
Regenerated
e.g. viscose, lyocel, soybean
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Para-aramids
e.g. Kevlar (Dupont)
Twaron ( Acordis)
Ultra high molecular weight
polyethylene (UHMWPE)
e.g. Dyneema
Spectra ( Allied signal)
Bullet proof
vest
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Kevlar and
PTFE rope
Kevlar -properties
Outstanding strength
Temperature resistance
Its resistance to chemicals and
temperature extremes
make Kevlar an ideal
component for ropes and cables
under severe loads in harsh
environments.
Other uses: Belting in radial tyres,
protective apparels, pressure
vessels, helicopter parts.
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Texport
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Carbon
Cearmics- high temperature
performance
Tungsten
Silicon carbide
Silicon carbide fibre
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Microfilaments
Sea island
type
microfibre
manufactured
by Toray
Japan
Splittable
microfibre
( Kanebo
Japan,Elaston
)
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Microfilament products
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Bath Products
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