ssential Oils and

Fragrances

CHE150

Prepared by:
Espinosa, Christine Joy

Introdu
ction

Manufact
uring
Process

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Essential Oils and

Fragrances

Perfum
e
Constit
uents

Perf
ume
Indu
stry
in
the
PH

Essential Oils and Fragrances | p.1

Introdu
ction

Manufact
uring
Process

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ESSENTIAL OIL
- Concentrated hydrophobic liquid
containing volatile aroma compounds
from plants.
Perfum
e
Constit
uents

Perf
ume
Indu
stry
in
the
PH

- Volatile Oils
- Ethereal Oils
- Oil of the plant from which they
were extracted

Essential Oils and Fragrances | p.2

Introdu
ction

Manufact
uring
Process

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Perf
ume
Indu
stry
in
the
PH

PERFUME
Latin: perfumare to fill with smoke
- Any
mixture
of
pleasantly
odorous substances incorporated
Perfum
in a suitable vehicle.
e
Constit
- Commonly used in Cosmetics
uents
increasing the customer appeal of
products; masking neutralizing,
and altering the odor of various
products as well as the odorless
subject
Essential Oils and Fragrances | p.3

Introdu
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Manufact
uring
Process

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Perfum
e
Constit
uents

Perf
ume
Indu
stry
in
the
PH

Antiquity: During civilizations of antiquity,

perfume was presented as an offering to the
gods
Middle Ages: plants were used to protect
against epidemics whereas perfumes from
the Orient whispered of carnal pleasure.
Renaissance: Queens and courtesans fought
over the secret formulas created by the first
Italian chemists and discovered fragrance
ingredients imported from Asia and America.
Classic Era: The use of fragrances at the
Versailles court reached intoxicating levels.
Century of Lights: Hairstyle, make-up and
perfume.
Essential Oils and Fragrances | p.4

Introdu
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Manufact
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Perfum
e
Constit
uents

Napoleon Years: The flower-like women of

the romantic era was looking for a delicate
scent that reflected their personality.
Modern Perfumery: Towards the end of the
19th century, the fragrance industry
increasingly targeted women belonging to
the middle class.

Perf
ume
Indu
stry
in
the
PH
Essential Oils and Fragrances | p.5

Introdu
ction

Manufact
uring
Process

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Perf
ume
Indu
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in
the
PH

PLANT
SOURCES:
Bark: commonly used barks include
cinnamon, sassafras and cascarilla
Leaves: lavender leaf, patchouli, sage,
violets, rosemary, citrus leaves
Flowers: largest & most common source
Perfum
e
Constit
of perfume aromatics (rose, jasmine,
uents
ylang-ylang)
Fruits: most commonly used fruit yield
their aromatics from the rind (citrus like
oranges, lemons, limes)
Roots: root of ginger family
Seeds: tonka bean, carrot seed, coriander,
cocoa, nutmeg
Essential Oils and Fragrances | p.6

Introdu
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PLANT SOURCES:

Woods: Highly important in providing the base notes

to a perfume (sandalwood, rosewood, agarwood,
birch, cedar,
juniper and pine)

Perfum
e
Constit
uents

Perf
ume
Indu
stry
in
the
PH
Essential Oils and Fragrances | p.7

Introdu
ction

Manufact
uring
Process

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Perf
ume
Indu
stry
in
the
PH

ANIMAL SOURCES:

Ambergis:
lumps
of
oxidized
fatty
compounds, whose precursors were secreted
and expelled by the sperm whale
Castoreum: obtained from the odorous
Perfum
e
sacs of the North American beaver
Constit
uents
Civet: also called civet musk, obtained
from the odorous sacs of the civets

Deer Musk: derived from the musk sacs from the

Asian musk deer, but now been replaced by the used
of synthetic musk known as whitemusk
Honeycomb: honeycomb of honeybee (beeswax,
honey)
Essential Oils and Fragrances | p.8

Introdu
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Manufact
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Process

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VEHICLE: solvent ( ethanol, water, coconut oil)

FIXATIVES: substance with lower vitality than
the essential oils which retard and even up the
rate of evaporation of the various odorous
contents.
Perfum
e
Constit
uents

Perf
ume
Indu
stry
in
the
PH

Animal: castor, civet, musk, ambergris, musc

zibata
Resinous: benzoin (hard resins) & gums,
myrrh and labdanum (soft resins), abrein
(extract from resins)
Essential-oil:
clary
sage,
patchouli,
sandalwood
Synthetic:
glyceryl
diacetate,
ethyl
phthalate, benzyl benzoate
Essential Oils and Fragrances | p.9

Introdu
ction

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Process

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ODOROUS SUBSTANCES:

Perfum
e
Constit
uents

Perf
ume
Indu
stry
in
the
PH

Essential Oils
Isolates: pure chemical compounds whose
source is an essential oil or other nature
perfume material (e.g. eugenol from clove oil,
anethole from anise oil, linalool from linoal oil)
Synthetic/Semisynthetic
chemicals:
chemically synthesized from an isolate or
other natural starting materials & are
classed as semisynthetics.
Important
Chemical
Conversion:
Condensation,
Esterifcation, Corignard, Hydrogenation,
Nitration, Oxidation, Miscellaneous
Processes

Essential Oils and Fragrances | p.10

Principal Compounds Found In

Scented Products:

Essential Oils and Fragrances | p.11

Some of the important Essential

Oils:

Essential Oils and Fragrances | p.12

Manufacturing Process:

Essential Oils and Fragrances | p.13

1. COLLECTION
Before the manufacturing process begins, the
initial ingredients must be brought to the
manufacturing center. Plant substances are
harvested from around the world, often handpicked for their fragrance. Animal products are
obtained by extracting the fatty substances
directly from the animal. Aromatic chemicals used
in synthetic perfumes are created in the
laboratory by perfume chemists.

Essential Oils and Fragrances | p.14

2. EXTRACTION

extraction of oil from the source.

a.) Expression

One of the oldest methods of fragrance

extraction, producing an essential oil from plants
that are pressed, squeezed or compressed to
yield an aromatic oil.

Essential Oils and Fragrances | p.15

Introdu
ction

Manufact
uring
Process

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2. EXTRACTION

extraction of oil from the source.

b.) Distillation

Perfum
e
Constit
uents

Perf
ume
Indu
stry
in
the
PH

The raw material is heated and the fragrant

compounds
are
re-collected
through
condensation of the distilled vapor. Distilled
products, whether through steam or dry
distillation are known either as essential oils or
ottos.
Three types of distillation:
STEAM DISTILLATION,
FRACTIONAL DISTILLATION
RECTIFICATION/DESTRUCTIVE DISTILLATION

Essential Oils and Fragrances | p.16

2. EXTRACTION

extraction of oil from the source.

b.) Distillation

Essential Oils and Fragrances | p.17

2. EXTRACTION

extraction of oil from the source.

b.) Distillation

Essential Oils and Fragrances | p.18

Introdu
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uring
Process

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2. EXTRACTION

Perfum
e
Constit
uents

Perf
ume
Indu
stry
in
the
PH

extraction of oil from the source.

c.) Maceration (Solvent Extraction)
Certain plant materials contain too
little volatile oil to undergo
expression and delicate chemical
properties to undergo distillation,
the oils are extracted using their
solvent properties.

Essential Oils and Fragrances | p.19

Introdu
ction

Manufact
uring
Process

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2. EXTRACTION

extraction of oil from the source.

c.) Maceration (Solvent Extraction)

Perfum
e
Constit
uents

Perf
ume
Indu
stry
in
the
PH

TYPES:
i.) Organic Solvent Extraction: most common
and most economically important technique
for extracting aromatics in the modern
perfume industry. Raw materials are
submerged and agitated in a solvent that can
dissolve the desired aromatic compounds.

Essential Oils and Fragrances | p.20

Introdu
ction

Manufact
uring
Process

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2. EXTRACTION

extraction of oil from the source.

c.) Maceration (Solvent Extraction)

Perfum
e
Constit
uents

Perf
ume
Indu
stry
in
the
PH

TYPES:
ii.) Supercritical Fluid Extraction: relatively
new technique for extracting fragrant
compounds from a raw material, which often
employs Supercritical CO2 as the extraction
solvent. When carbon dioxide is put under
high P at slightly above room T, a
supercritical fluid forms (Under normal P,
CO2 changes directly from a solid to a gas
called sublimation.)

Essential Oils and Fragrances | p.21

Introdu
ction

Manufact
uring
Process

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m
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c
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st
or
y

2. EXTRACTION

extraction of oil from the source.

c.) Maceration (Solvent Extraction)

Perfum
e
Constit
uents

Perf
ume
Indu
stry
in
the
PH

TYPES:
ii.) Supercritical Fluid Extraction: Since CO2
in anon-polar compound has low surface
tension and wets easily, it can be used to
extract the typically hydrophobic aromatics
from the plant material.

Essential Oils and Fragrances | p.22

tory

2. EXTRACTION

extraction of oil from the source.

IMPORTANT FACTORS IN THE SELECTION SOLVENT:

1) Selective, quickly and completely dissolve the
odoriferous components.
2) Low Boiling Point
3) Chemically Inert to the Oil
4) Evaporate completely without leaving any
odorous residue
5) Low Priced
6) Non-flammable

Essential Oils and Fragrances | p.2

3. BLENDING

Once the perfume oils are collected, they are

ready to be blended together according to a
formula determined by a master in the field,
known as a "nose."

Essential Oils and Fragrances | p.2

tory

4. AGING

Fine perfume is often aged for several

months or even years after it is blended.
Following this, a "nose" will once again test
the perfume to ensure that the correct
scent has been achieved. More "notes," of
various smells, may be further blended.

Essential Oils and Fragrances | p.2

Address:Gil
Puyat
Avenue corner Paseo de
Roxas Avenue corner
Jupiter St., Makati,
1209

Address: 538 MRR

Rd.
Manggahan,
Pasig City, Pasig
City

Essential Oils and Fragrances | p.2

Introdu
ction

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uring
Process

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SOME FACTS:

Perfum
e
Constit
uents

Perf
ume
Indu
stry
in
the
PH

Where to apply perfume?

To pulse points
folds in the crook of elbows,
back of knees,
behind the ears,
the nape of the neck,
the insides of wrists, and..
cleavage
so that the pulse point will warm the perfume and
release the fragrance continually.

Essential Oils and Fragrances | p.2

1. http://www.madehow.com/Volume-2/Perfume.html
2. http://www.everythinkaboutperfume.com/history.html
3. http://www.fashion-era.com/perfume_history.htm
4. http://www.scotsman.com/news/world/archaeological-dig-sniffs-out-world-s-oldest-perfumery-1737387
5. http://news.nationalgeographic.com/news/2007/03/070329-oldest-perfumes.html
6. http://www.osmoz.com/static/the-history-of-fragrances
7. http://www.learningabouteos.com/index.php/2013/08/05/essential-oil-extraction-methods/
8. Fragrance, Flavor and Food Additives. ChE-05014: Chemical Technology III. Ch.1. pp1-18

REFERENCES