FIBER TO YARN
TEXTILES
FIBER
YARN
FABRIC
FIBERS: STAPLE FIBERS
In Textiles a generic term for any on of the various types of matter that form
the basic elements of a textile and I.e. characterized by having a length at
least 100 times of its diameter of thickness.
FILAMENT FIBER:
filament is a very long fiber. The length of filaments may range from a few
100 mtrs .ex-silk to several kmts /manmade fibers.
GENERAL FLOWCHART OF
TEXTILE PRODUCTS
FIBER PRODUCER
YARN MILL
PRODUCT
TEXTILE MILL
MANUFACTURER
CONSUMER
WHOLE SALE/JOBBER
RETAILER
NATURAL FIBRES
NATURAL FIBRES
VEGETABLE
ANIMAL
MINERAL
(cellulose base)
(protein)
TYPE
Natural fibers
NAME OF FIBER
SOURCE
COMPOSITION
VEGETABLE
COTTON
KAPOK
SEED
COTTON BALL
KAPOK TREE
CELLULOSE
BASE
HEMP
BAST FIBERS
FLAX(LINEN)
JUTE
MESHTA(KENAF)
ABACA(MANILA)
CANTALAISTLE,
MAGUEY,HENEQUEN,
PINE & SISAL.
HEMP OR ABACA
STALK
RHEA OR CHINA
GRASS
FLAX STALK
JUTE STALK
LEAF FIBERS
PINEAPPLE
LEAF,AGAVE LEAF
COIR
FRUIT FIBER
COCONUT BASK
RAMIE
NATURAL FIBERS
TYPE
NAME OF FIBER
ANIMAL
(PROTEIN)
WOOL
HAIR
SILK
MINERAL
ASBESTOS
SOURCE/COMPOSITION
SHEEP
HAIR BEARING ANIMALS
SILK WORMS
(SILK COCOONS)
VARIETIES OF
ROCK(SILICATE OF
MAGNESIUM & CALCIUM)
TYPE
NON
CELLULOSIC
(SYNTHETIC)
POLYMERS
NAME OF FIBER
NYLON
ARAMID
POLYESTER
ACRYLIC
MODACRYLIC
SPANDEX
OLEFIN
VINYON
SARAN
NOVOLOID
POLYCARBONATE
SOURCE/COMPOSITION
ALIPHATIC POLYAMIDE
AROMATIC POLYAMIDE
DIHYDRIC ALCOHOL
&TEREPHTHALIC ACID
ACRYLONITRILE (atleast 85%)
ACRYLONITRILE (35-85%)
POLYURETHANE (atleast 85%)
ETHLENE OR PROPYLENE
VINYL CHLORIDE (atleast
85%)
VINYLIDENE CHLORIDE
(atleast 80%)
PHENOL BASED NOVALAC
CARBONIC ACID (polyester
derivatives)
NAME OF FIBER
POLYBENZIMIDAZOLE
ALGINATE
FLUROCARBON
GRAFT
MATRIX
ANIDEX
LASTRILE
NITRILE
VINAL
SOURCE/COMPOSITION
TETRA MINO BIPHENYL &
DIPHENYL ISOPHTHALATE
CALCIUM ALGINATE
TETRAFLURO ETHYLENE
MOLECULAR GRAFT OF
POLYMERS
MIXTURE OF POLYMERS
MONOHYDRIC ALCOHOL
AND ACRYLIC ACID
ACRYLONITRILE (10-50%)
& A DIENE
VINYLIDENE DINITRILE
(atleast 85%)
VINYL ALCOHOL (atleast
50%)
NATURAL FIBERS
TYPE
NAME OF FIBER
SOURCE/COMPOSITION
Cellulosic
(natural)
polymers
Rayon
Acetate
triacetate
Cotton
Cotton
Cotton
protein
azlon
Corn,soyabean
rubber
rubber
metallic
metal
Aluminium,silver,gold,stainless
steel
mineral
Glass
Ceramic
graphite
Silica sand,
Limestone
Alumina, silica carbon
linters
linters
linters
or
or
or
wood
wood
wood
Man made fibers are made from special chemical solutions which
are forced through tiny holes, similar to water passing through
shower head.
The device we use to form the filament is called as spinneret. it
looks like a thimble with tiny holes on the top or flat surface
area.
The fine liquid streams of solution are then hardened into
continuous strands called filament fibers.
The no. of holes, their shape and size of their holes in the
spinneret vary with filament fiber and yarn desired.
Fiber properties
5.Fiber longitudinal configuration: lengthwise fiber may vary as to their configuration, they
may be straight ,twisted, coiled or crimped .ex-cotton fibers-twisted, nylon-fairly straight.
FIBER PERFORMANCE PROPERTIES
Quality
Properties
Aesthetic
Durability
Comfort
Safety
Identification of fibers
Burning test.
Microscopic examination.
Micro solubility.
Dyeing and staining.
Density or specific gravity.
Refractive index and bire fringence.
Melting point and moisture regain.
Sophisticated instrumentation.
Gas chromatography.
SPINNING-YARN MAKING
Spinning-yarn making
BLENDING
CARDING
ROVING/RUBBING
RE-COMBING
STEAMING
RING FRAME
ASSEMBLY WINDING
(DOUBLING)
AUTO WINDING
TWISTING
STEAMING
RE-WINDING
SINGEING
YARN
MACHINES USED IN
SPINNING MILLS
FIBER MIXER
BLOW ROOM
CARDING MACHINE
DRAWING MACHINE
COMBER MACHINE
SIMPLEX
RING FRAME
CONE WINDING
YARNS
1.A group of fibers twisted together to form
a continuous strand.
2.All textile ,except for a few such as felt
and non woven fabrics are produced from
yarns.
3.The yarns are interlaced (woven)
,interloped (knitted) or combined in other
ways to form a textile fabric.
CLASSIFICATION OF YARNS
1.Spun yarn
2.Filament yarn
Classification of yarns
SPUN YARNS:
Are composed of relatively short length of fibers twisted or
spun to hold them together.
The short lengths of fibers (measured in inches) are called
staple fibers.
This staple is made into yarn by mechanical processes that
first make the fibers more or less parallel, then alternatively
pull and twist them.
High twist is necessary to press the fibers together to give
strength to the resulting yarn.
IDENTIFYING SPUN YARNS
Classification of yarns
When a filament is untwisted and pulled, the fibers
remain parallel and the yarn does not come apart
Filament yarns are composed of only manufactured
fiber or silk.
IDENTIFYING FILAMENT YARNS
When a filament yarn is untwisted and pulled ,the
fibers remain parallel and the yarn does not come
apart.
Filament yarns are composed of only manufactured fiber or
silk.
TYPES OF FILAMENT YARNS
1.monofilament:filament yarns may be composed of one
single filament.
2.multifilalent:filament yarns may be composed of many
filaments. most of the yarns are multifilament.
Preparatory of yarns
Raw material
Primary doubling
Secondary doubling
Green/Ply yarn
Drying
spooling/winding
Primary twisting
Rewinding
Secondary Twisting
Package Form
Reeling/Rewinding
Hank/Cheese
PREPARATION OF YARNS
Drying: the extraction of the moisture from the
thread(temp below 50c)
Winding: the process of winding the yarn into the
bobbin or reel is called winding.
Doubling: two or more threads wound on winding
bobbins are wound into one twisting bobbin.
YARN TWISTING
Yarns are made by twisting together parallel or
nearly parallel fibers.
TPI: the amount of twist in a yarn is designated as
the TPI or turns-per-inch of the yarn.
Spun yarn with relatively low twist (from 2 to 12
TPI)are frequently called soft twist.
Spun yarn with relatively high twist (from 20 to 30
TPI) are called hard twist yarns.
Filament yarns usually have very low twist(1/2 to 1
TPI).
TYPES OF TWISTS
Primary twist
Inter twist
Secondary twist
The degree of twist is applied according to the texture
and appearance of the fabric proposed to be woven.
CATEGORIES OF YARNS
Single
2.
Ply yarns
Ply yarn is defined as two or more single yarns
twisted together to form one new yarn.
Two ply yarns are two singles twisted together , three
ply are three singles twisted together ,and so
forth
Ex- 2ply,4ply,6ply,8ply,12ply,24 ply etc.
1.
TYPES OF YARNS
Stretch yarn
Yarns that have the capability of stretching are being used for
regular knitted and woven apparel to provide increased
comfort when sitting,bending,stooping or when engaged in
active sports or work activities.
TYPES OF YARNS
Comfort stretch
These fabrics are designed to yield with body
movement. These fabrics have very low recovery
force, the yarns from which they are made and the
fabrics themselves look the same as non-stretch
materials.
Novelty yarns
They are also called fancy yarns. they are a general
classification given to yarns that are not uniform in
thickness through out their length but have deliberate
irregularities on their surface. these irregularities may
be knots,bumps,curls or similar effects.
Fabric made from novelty yarns are not durable and are
especially susceptible to wear from abrasion or
rubbing.
Stretch
type
Recovery
power
comfort Low
Bare
elastic
spandex
power
Covered
elastic
Spandex
or rubber
power
Blouses,sportswear,str
etch
pants,hosiery,mens
hose. polyester has
tendency to pill.
moderate Lightweight
foundations,
swimwear,
athletic wear, gym
clothing, bike short
high
Heavy foundations,
elastic bandages,
athletic supporters.
rubber has higher
power and recovery
than spandex but poor
shelf life it begins to
Stretch
fiber
compone
nt
Stretch Recover
type
y power
core
spun
spandex
cotton
Slack
merceriz
ed
DENIER D TEX
COTTON
(Nec)
METRICS WORSTED
TEX
10
590.5/TE
X
1000/TEX
885.8/TEX
DENIER
.1111
1.1111
5315 /
DENIER
9000 /
DENIER
7972 /
DENIER
D TEX
.1
0.9
5905/DTE 10000 /
X
DTEX
8858/DTEX
COTTON
(Nec)
590.5
/NEC
5316
/NEC
5905 /
NEC
1.693
1.500
METRICS
1000
/
TEX
9000
/NM
10000
/NM
.5906
0.8859
WORSTED
590.5
/
NEC
7972 /
8858 /
0.6667
1.129
WORSTED
W0RSTE
D
SEWING THREADS
Sewing threads are special kinds of yarns. they are engineered
and designed to pass through a sewing machine rapidly to
form a stitch efficiently and to function while in sewn product
without breaking or becoming distorted for at least the useful
life of the product.
Fibers used for thread are cotton, nylon and polyester. Rayon is
used for thread intended primarily for embroidery or fancy
stitch work rather than for actual seaming to hold parts
together.
TYPES OF THREADS
1.Spun
2.Filament
3.Core spun type
THREAD FINISHES: thread finished with various finishes such
as mercerized,soft,glaze and bounded. in addition special
finishes include flame resistance and tear resistance.
THREAD SIZES: sizes (weight / unit length ) of thread are
marketed and expressed with their tex number designation.
FIBERS
SPINNING
PREPARATORY
YARNS
SPINNING:
The object is as follows
To convert waste materials to singed / unsinged yarn
either in single or doubled form.
To convert slivers to singed / unsinged yarn either in
single or double form.
To produce the yarns either as 100 % or in blended form.
1.SLIVER MAKING
2.YARN MAKING
SLIVER MAKING
Stretching :opening of raw material.
Cutting :to cut the opened material lap for required
length.
Blending :mixing of two or three types of cut material.
SLIVER MAKING
Oiling :spraying anti static oil to reduce staticity and improve
workability.
Carding :removing impurities and forming slivers to
straightened fiber.
Trumpet passage :doubling and drafting to get even and fine
sliver.
Combing :removal of impartial and short fibers from carded
sliver.
STRETCHING, CUTTING
OILING
BLENDING
CARDING
SLIVER
DRAWING
COMBING
MACHINES USED IN
SPINNING MILLS
FIBER MIXER
BLOW ROOM
CARDING MACHINE
DRAWING MACHINE
COMBER MACHINE
SIMPLEX
RING FRAME
CONE WINDING