Textile Tes Products

Textile Testing Quality Control
Path to the Customer’s Heart

Textile Test Products 2002
Our business is driven
by standards

What is standardization?
 Standardization is the single solution of a
recurring problem under the given scientific,
technical and economic possibilities.

How old is standardization?
 Ancient Egypt, 4000 years ago
Standard on bricks made of mud of the river Nile: Length: 41
cm, width: 20 cm.
 Ancient Rome, 2000 years ago

Standard on water pipes of lead: Fixed dimensions, minimum
weight and numerical designation of pipes.

What is a standard?
 Different definitions by different organizations
 ISO-Definition:
Standards are documented agreements containing technical
specifications or other precise criteria to be used consistently
as rules, guidelines, or definitions of characteristics, to
ensure that materials, products, processes and services are
fit for their purpose.

Technical Standards
 Standards are
developed voluntarily
used voluntarily
 Standards become legally binding

when a government references them in a regulation
when they are cited in a contract

Technical Standards
 Standards contain
a main part
Annexes or Appendixes
 The content is
mandatory (main part, normative annex) or
informal (notes, nonmandatory or informative annex)

Technical Standards
 Examples for different types of standards
(ASTM):
classification
guide
practice
specification
terminology
test method

Technical Standards
 Standards for test methods
may describe the required instruments in detail including
drawings, pictures, type of instrument, name and address of
manufacturer etc.
(often in company standards, American standards, “old“ ISO

standards)
may describe the performance of the test
(“new“ ISO standards, CEN standards)

Technical Standards
 "Performance based standards "- what does it mean?
They focus on the intent of the standard and will no longer
specify the type of equipment or manufacturer
They allow the user to conduct a test using non-specific
instrument parameters (basis: testing procedures)
They allow the manufacturer to design and to make
improvements to instruments without being "locked in" to a
particular design

Technical Standards
 Performance based standards
advantage: does not retard the technical progress
disadvantage: open for competitors
disadvantage: may increase variability

Standardization Organizations
 Different levels of Standardization
International ISO, IEC
Regional (European, Arabian countries, Latin America, ...)

CEN, CENELEC, ...
National ANSI, BSI, DIN, JISC, ...
Industry Association AATCC, SAE, VDA, ...
Company JC Penney, Marks & Spencer,

Sears, Victoria’s Secret...

International
 ISO - International Standardization Organization
founded 1947
headquarter: Geneva, Switzerland
130 members, one in each country
2,800 technical bodies, 30,000 experts
12,000 standards
ISO standards may, but do not have to be published by ISO members
as national standards. Changes are allowed.
 IEC - International Electrotechnical Commission

founded 1906
headquarter: Geneva, Switzerland
formal agreement with ISO, JTC

ISO Members
 Australia (SAA)  Japan (JISC)
 Brazil (ABNT)  Malaysia (DSM)
 Canada (SCC)  Mexico (DGN)
 Chile (INN)  New Zealand (SNZ)
 China (CSBTS)  Panama (COPANIT)
 Colombia (ICONTEC)  Philippines (BPS)
 Costa Rica (INTECO)  Singapore (PSB)
 Ecuador (INEN)  Thailand (TISI)
 Indonesia (BSN)  USA (ANSI)
 Israel (SII)  and many more ...

Europe
 CEN - European Committee for Standardization
founded in the beginning of the sixties
headquarter: Brussels, Belgium
members: EC + EFTA + Czech Republic
CEN standards have to be published by CEN members as
national standards without any change.
 CENELEC - European Committee for

Electrotechnical Standardization

CEN Members
 Austria (ON)  Italy (UNI)
 Belgium (IBN/BIN)  Luxembourg (SEE)
 Czech Republic (CSNI)  Netherlands (NNI)
 Denmark (DS)  Norway (NSF)
 Finland (SFS)  Portugal (IPQ)
 France (AFNOR)  Spain (AENOR)
 Germany (DIN)  Sweden (SIS)
 Greece (ELOT)  Switzerland (SNV)
 Iceland (STRÍ)  United Kingdom (BSI)
 Ireland (NSAI)

Cooperation
 ISO/CEN Cooperation: Vienna agreement of 1991.
The agreement defines procedures for the following:
• cooperation by correspondence
• cooperation by mutual representation at meetings
• adoption of existing International Standards as
European Standards
• cooperation by transfer of work and parallel
approval of standards
Principal guideline: General test methods should be developed
within ISO. Requests for general test methods within CEN
should be transferred to ISO.

Committees
 ISO  CEN
Technical Committees Technical Committees
TC 35 (Paints) TC 139 (Paints)
TC 38 (Textiles) TC 248 (Textiles)
TC 61 (Plastics) TC 249 (Plastics)

USA
 Governmental sector
80 Organizations, 44,000 standards
department of defense alone 34,000 standards
 Private sector
620 Organizations, 49,000 standards
central co-ordination: ANSI
130 professional associations and scientific Organizations (for
example AATCC, SAE),
14,000 standards
300 trade Organizations, 16,000 standards
40 Standardization Organization (for example ASTM),
17,000 standards

USA
 ANSI - American National Standards Institute
founded 1918
non-profit Organization
coordinating Standardization work of 175 accredited
Organizations in the private sector
no standard development
member of ISO and IEC
 ASTM - American Society for Testing and Materials
founded 1898
profit Organization
132 committees, 32,000 members
10,000 standards

USA
 SAE - Society of Automotive Engineers
founded 1905
non-profit Organization
14,000 active members
1,400 automotive standards
 AATCC - American Association of

Textile Chemists and Colorists
founded 1921
1,000 active members
185 standard methods, more than 40 % related to ISO
standards

QUESTIONS????

Colorfastness to Crocking
 Crocking - A transfer of colorant from the

surface of a colored yarn or fabric to another
surface or to an adjacent area of the same
fabric principally by rubbing
 Although a physical process, the primary
evaluation is for appearance (color)
 Wet and dry evaluation typically performed

Crocking Instruments
 Applicable to many textile materials including

dye and printed fabrics, carpeting, and
automotive interior materials
 Manual (for shorter tests) and automatic
models available
 Linear and rotating motion models
 Can be adapted to provide simple abrasion
tests for other materials

Colorfastness to Crocking
 AATCC Test Method 8 - Basic Crockmeter Method

 AATCC Test Method 116 - Rotary Vertical
 AATCC Test Method 165 - Carpets
 ISO 105-D02 - Organic Solvents
 ISO 105-X12 - Colorfastness to rubbing
 SAE J861 - Organic trim materials
 ASTM D5053 - Leather

AATCC Test Method 8 (Basic)
 Recommended specimen size 5cm by 13cm

 Wet and dry tests are specified
 Mount white test cloth with the weave parallel
to the direction of rubbing
 Run test for 10 complete turns
 Evaluate the white test cloth using the Gray
Scale for Staining

AATCC Test Method 8 (Basic)
 For the wet test:

Establish technique for preparing wet crock cloth
squares by weighing a conditioned square,
then thoroughly wet out a white testing square
in distilled water
The wet pick-up should be 65 ± 5%
Use of a hand wringer is recommended
White cloth dried and conditioned prior to
evaluation

AATCC Test Method 116 (Rotary
Vertical Method)
 Method is especially useful for prints where

the singling out of areas smaller than possible
to test with Method 8 is required
 Wet and dry tests specified
 20 complete turns specified
 Evaluation performed with the Gray Scale for
Staining

AATCC Test Method 165 (Carpets)
 Testing before/after treatments such as

shampooing, steam or hot water extraction, or
antistatic/antisoil application has been found
useful
 Wet and Dry testing specified
 Ten complete turns (one per second)
specified
 Evaluate with Gray Scale for Staining

AATCC Crockmeter - CM-1
 Manual unit
recommended for
shorter tests
 Has cycle counter
 Comes standard
with 16 mm finger
and 9 newton arm
 For wet and dry
tests • Cloth, abrasive paper,
and spring clip supplied

CM-5 Crockmeter
 Automatic unit
recommended for
long/frequent tests
 Electrically powered
 Count-up timer with
automatic shut
down
• Cloth, abrasive paper,
and spring clip supplied

CM-6 Crockmeter
 Manual unit
 Reciprocating rotary
motion to meet AATCC
Test Method 116
 Can be used for wet
and dry testing

Verification checks are
extremely important to
avoid incorrect results.
Potential problems
include:
 Crocking finger may need resurfacing

 Loose clips
 Incorrect mounting
 Loops to wire clips positioned downward
 Metal base warped
 Use Crocking Calibration Cloth!!
Crockmeter Testing
 Non-textile applications
Paint scratch and mar
UV curable inks using methyl ethyl ketone (MEK)
Plastic abrasion
Copier toners
Image fastness
• ASTM F1319

Abrasion Resistance
 AATCC Accelerotor®
Simulates dry, moist or wet
abrasion
Watertight test chamber
Different grade liners
Reference AATCC Test
Method 93

AATCC Accelerotor®
 Fabric rotated within an

abrasive lined cylinder
 Fabric subjected to:
flexing
rubbing
shock
compression
stretching
other mechanical forces

AATCC Accelerotor®
 Results affected by:

length of time
size and shape of impeller
rotational speed
abrasive liner

AATCC Accelerotor®
 Typical tests run 2-6

minutes
• Special sizes and shapes of

rotors are available

Specimen Preparation and
Evaluation
 Method A (Weight Loss)
Specimen size determined by weight of fabric
Procedure specifies measurement to  0.1%
 Method B (Strength Loss)
Special specimen preparation requirements
Procedure specifies ASTM D5034 -- “Test for
Breaking Force and Elongation of Textile Fabrics
(Grab Test)”
 Other Evaluation Methods

Bean Bag Snag Tester
 Reference ASTM Test
Method D5362 -
Standard Test Method
for Snagging
Resistance of Fabrics
(Bean Bag Test
Method)

 Simulates fabric
snagging and
picking through a
tumbling action
 Provides good end-

use simulation

 Applicable to knits
and double knits
 Snag and picks

result from fabric
tumbling against
series of rotating
pins

Snagging Resistance
 Snag - A yarn or part of a yarn pulled or

plucked from the surface
 Distortion - General term for a visible defect in
the texture of a fabric
 Protrusion - Visible group of fibers (or yarn)
that extends above the fabric surface

Snagging Resistance
 Three types of snags identified:

snags that have protrusion and no distortion
snags that have distortion and no protrusion
snags that have both distortion and protrusion
 Distortion - Tension on a snagged yarn:

changing the size of loops within a knitted fabric
causing breakage within a woven fabric

 Uses bean bags
weighing
approximately 0.45 kg
 Automatic shut off

after 100 revolutions

Snagging Resistance Method
 Laundering/Drycleaning as required
 Specimen preparation
Make “socks” from 215mm by 115mm swatches
Sew supplied bean bags in these “socks”
 Typical
test runs 100 revolutions
 Specimen evaluation

Snagging Evaluation
 Option A (From ASTM D5362)

ICI Photographic Snagging Standards
Rating system of “5” (no snagging) to “1” (very
severe snagging)
 Option B (From ASTM D5362)
Points accumulated based on type of snag
Rating system based on total number of points
observed

Pilling Resistance
 Common definitions are:

Fuzz - Untangled fiber ends that protrude from the
surface of a yarn or fabric
Pills - Bunches or balls of tangled fibers that are held
to the surface of a fabric by one or more fibers

Pilling Resistance
Standards
 ASTM D3512 - Standard Test Method for
Pilling Resistance and Other Related Surface
Changes of Textile Fabrics: Random Tumble
Pilling Tester Method
 DIN 53867
 JIS L1076

Random Tumble Pilling Tester
 Determines resistance
to pilling and related
surface changes
 Applicable to knitted and
woven fabrics
 Clear, lighted viewing
chambers

Random Tumble Pilling Tester
 Pills result from random

tumble action against a
mild abrasive
 Cotton fiber added to
initiate pill formation
 Air injection system
 Good correlation to end-
use performance

Pilling Resistance Test Method
 Laundering/Drycleaning as required
 Specimens cut to 105mm squares 45° to the
warp and fill directions

Pilling or Non-Pilling?

 Hoechst Trevira Tested the Correlation
between 2 Pilling Methods With Real Wear
 Random Tumble Pilling Test (DIN 53867)
 Martindale Method (DIN 53865/ISO CD
12945/2)

 Benchmark (Real Wear) Setup
21 fabrics of different origins and
constructions by different weavers
8 Wearers of articles for 6 weeks of different
sizes/wear patterns
Clothing assessed (DIN 53867) and dry-cleaned
every week (5 days)

 Results
Martindale showed greatly differing values when
compared to the wear test
RTPT Test showed good correlation to wear test

Wool / Linen 65/35 (290 g/linear m)
9
8
7
After
P.O.S.
6
5
Wear 4 Be fore Cle aning
3 Afte r Cle aning
2
1
0 5 10 15 20 25 30 Days
9
8
7
6
P.O.S.
RTPT 5
4
3
2
1
0 5 10 20 30 40 50 60 90 120
Minutes
9
Martindale 4
0 125 500 1000 2000 3000 4000 5000 6000 Revolutions

Trevira 350/Wool 55/45 (250 g/linear m)
9
8
7
After 6
P.O.S.
5
Wear 4 Before Cleaning
3 After Cleaning
2
1
0 5 10 15 20 25 30 Days
9
8
7
6
5
P.O.S.
RTPT 4
3
2
1
0 5 10 20 30 40 50 60 90 120 Minutes
9
Martindale 4
0 125 500 1000 2000 3000 4000 5000 6000 Revolutions

Trevira 350/Viscose 67/33 (360 g/linear m)
9
8
7
After 6
P.O.S.
5
Wear 4
3
Be fore Cle aning
Afte r Cle aning
2
1
0 5 10 15 20 25 30
Days
9
8
7
6
5
P.O.S.
4
RTPT 3
2
1
0 5 10 20 30 40 50 60 90 120 Minutes
9
Martindale 3
0 125 500 1000 2000 3000 4000 5000 Revolutions

When gluing the edges of
pilling specimens to prevent
raveling, apply the glue
with the edge of a piece of
cardboard. Adhesive can be
thinned with water.

Universal Wear Tester
 Other names include:
Stoll Quartermaster Wear
Tester
Flex Abrasion Tester
Surface Abrader
CS 22C

Flexing and Abrasion
Resistance
 Common definitions are:
Abrasion - The wearing away of any part of a
material by rubbing against another surface
• Surface abrasion
• Edge and fold abrasion
• Flex abrasion
Frosting - A change of fabric color caused by
localized abrasive wear

 Used to test:
Woven, knitted, napped
and pile fabrics
Non-woven and coated
fabrics
Plastic films and rubber
sheeting
Athletic shoe materials

 Other features:
Frosting Attachment
Continuous Change
Abradant Head
Edge & Fold Abrasion
Clamp
Electrical Depth Micrometer

Flexing and Abrasion
Resistance Test Methods
 AATCC Test Method 119 (Screen Wire)

 AATCC Test Method 120 (Emery Method)
 ASTM D3885 (Flexing and Abrasion Method)
 ASTM D3886 (Inflated Diaphragm Method)
 FTMS 191-5300 and 5302

Test Method Specifics
(AATCC)
Method 119 Method 120

 12.7 cm by 12.7 cm  10.8 cm diameter circles
 1200 cycles suggested  100 cycles suggested
 Uses stainless steel  Uses inflated rubber
wire abradant diaphragm and abradant
 Evaluate using Gray  Evaluate using Gray
Scale Scale

Test Method Specifics (ASTM)
Method D3885 Method D3886

 200 mm by 38 mm  112 mm diameter circles
 300 cycles suggested  Test to failure or cycle #
 Uses yoke positioning  Uses inflated rubber
device diaphragm and abradant
 Evaluate for both  Evaluate for both
appearance and physical appearance and physical
changes changes

Fabric Streak Analyzer
 Used to determine
cause of streaks or
uneven dyeing of
knitted fabric
 Used by knitters as
a Quality Control
Device
• No official test method
• Recommended by Cotton Inc.

(Principles of Operation)
 Optical grade polystyrene film placed on base
plate
 Fabric placed on polystyrene
 Neoprene™ diaphragm placed on fabric
 Cover secures all layers
 Compressed air used to apply pressure on
the fabric and polystyrene

(Principles of Operation)
 Heat applied to the base to soften the

polystyrene
 Pressurized sample is forced into the
softened polystyrene
 Heat turned off and cold water is circulated
through the base hardening the polystyrene
 Fabric separated from the polystyrene

(Principles of Evaluation)
 Image in the polystyrene examined for flaw

 If a streak or defect is seen in the polystyrene
problem belongs to the knitter
 If a streak or defect is NOT seen in the
polystyrene
problem belongs to the dyer

Fabric sample should
extend beyond the
gasket to allow air
trapped between the
fabric and plastic
sheet to escape.

Laboratory Wringer
 Provides repeatable
method for evenly
extracting excess
liquids from fabrics
 Used as an
accessory to many
ISO, AATCC, and
ASTM methods

Laboratory Wringer
 Padder used for

wetting materials
prior to wringing
 Adjustable weights
for the top roller
 Safety switches stop
motor if rollers
forced apart • Neoprene® or Teflon®-
coated rollers available

AATCC Perspiration Tester

Colorfastness to
Perspiration
 Specimens of colored textiles are wet out in

simulated perspiration solution, subjected to a
fixed mechanical pressure and allowed to dry
slowly at a slightly elevated temperature.
 AATCC Test Method 15 -- Perspiration
 AATCC Test Method 107 -- Water

AATCC Perspiration Tester

Colorfastness to
Perspiration
 Applicable to dyed, printed or otherwise
colored textile fibers, yarns and fabrics
 Also applicable to dyestuffs
 Alkaline test eliminated after studies done in
1974
Some international and special end-use still require
alkaline test

Scorch Tester
 Scorch Tester used for:
Colorfastness to Dry Heat
Colorfastness to Pressing
Tensile Loss from Chlorine
Retention

Colorfastness to Heat
 AATCC Test Method 117 -- (Dry heat)

Various temperature ranges depending on
requirements and the stability of the fibers
 AATCC Test Method 133 -- (Hot pressing)
Dry, damp, and wet pressing methods described
depending on the end use of the textile
Various temperature levels used depending on class
of textile tested

AATCC Test Method 117
 Specimen size not specified

 Testing time is 30 seconds
 Pressure specified is 40 ± 10 g/cm2
 Evaluate specimens for color change using:
Gray Scale for Color Change (Dyed fabrics)
Gray Scale for Staining (Undyed fabrics)

Temperature Levels for
AATCC
Level I 149 ± 2C
Level II 163 ± 2C
Level III 177 ± 2C
Level IV 191 ± 2C
Level V 205 ± 2C
Level VI 219 ± 2C

Temperature Levels for
ISO
Level I 150 ± 2C
Level II 180 ± 2C
Level III 210 ± 2C

 Dry Pressing -- Dry specimen pressed with

heating device
 Damp Pressing -- Dry specimen covered with
wet, undyed cotton cloth, then pressed with
heating device
 Wet Pressing -- Wet specimen covered with
wet, undyed cotton cloth, then pressed with
heating device

 Temperatures specified:
110 ± 2C
150 ± 2C
200 ± 2C
 Table I of this test method identifies safe
ironing temperatures for most fabrics

 Specimen size of 12cm by 4cm is

recommended
 Yarn or thread, knitted to a fabric of above
dimensions, is acceptable
 Dry, damp, and wet pressing all require 15
seconds of testing
 Evaluate using Gray Scale for Color Change

Scorch Tester
 Used for both Test
Methods 117 and 133
 Upper plate hinged for
sample removal
 Adjustable pressure
 Thermostatic control
 Pyrometer
temperature indicator

Fixotest®
 Designed for the
European market
 CE approved
 Meets ISO 105 P01,

ISO 105 X11,
AATCC TM 117 &
133

Tensile Loss Due to Chlorine
Retention
 AATCC Test Method 92 (Single sample

method)
 AATCC Test Method 114 (Multiple sample
method)

Retention (Single Sample)
 Fabrics treated in sodium hypochlorite

solution, rinsed, dried, and pressed between
metal plates
 Solution should contain 0.25% available
chlorine at a pH of 9.5
 Uses stock solution (such as Clorox) diluted
with distilled water

 Recommended sample size is 35.6cm (warp

direction) by 20.3cm (fill direction)
 Chlorination step involves wetting, bath in
solution, and rinsing a total of six times
 Samples are to be air dried
 Five strips cut from specimen (for tensile test)

Retention (Multiple Sample)
 Specimens are prepared using an automatic

washing machine and tumble dryer
 Washing, chlorination, and drying settings are
specified in the Test Method
 Specimen and tensile strip size are identical
to the Single Sample Method

 Recommended sample size is 35.6cm (warp

direction) by 20.3cm (fill direction)
 Chlorination step involves wetting, bath in
solution, and rinsing a total of six times
 Samples are to be air dried
 Five strips cut from specimen (for tensile test)

Retention (Multiple Sample)
 Specimens are prepared using an automatic

washing machine and tumble dryer
 Washing, chlorination, and drying settings are
specified in the Test Method
 Specimen and tensile strip size are identical
to the Single Sample Method

Retention
 Strips scorched for 30 seconds as shown
below:
Heating Plate
Strip specimen
Scorched Area

Retention
 Tensile testing should be performed on
unchlorinated, unscorched, and scorched
specimens
 Calculate tensile strength and report as a
percentage loss

Water Repellency:
Tumble Jar Dynamic Absorption
Test
 Absorbency - the propensity of a material to

take in and retain a liquid, usually water, in
the pores and interstices of the material
 Water Repellency - The characteristic of a
fiber, yarn or fabric to resist wetting

Dynamic Absorption Tester
 Set of specimens
placed into tumble jar
with distilled water
 20 minute cycle
 Specimens dried with
Lab Wringer
 Weighed to nearest
0.1g

Water Repellency:
Test
 Specimens cut into five 20.3cm x 20.3cm

squares
 Squares cut on 45° bias
 Liquid latex or rubber cement spread on
edges to prevent yarns from ravelling

Water Repellency:
Test
 AATCC Test Method 70
 Test is suited for fabrics to which a finish
(designed for water repellency) has been
applied
 Subjects fabrics to end use conditions
 Not intended to measure rain penetration
Test measures water into (not through) the fabric

QUESTIONS????

New Laundering Technology
 Quickwash Plus
Laundering Test for Shrinkage and
Colorfastness
Single wash/rinse/dry cycle in 15
minutes
Correlates within 1% of AATCC
Method 135
Correlates well with ISO 6330
Saves on labor, utilities, materials
and TIME
Victoria’s Secret Stores March 2, 2001

New Test Methods
 AATCC TM 187-2000
Dimensional Stability of
Fabrics: Accelerated

Correlation
Quickwash v. 5 cycles AATCC TM 135
12 12
% lengthwise shrinkage % widthwise shrinkage
10 10
8 8
6 6
4 4
2 2
0 0
Fleece Twill Jersey Oxford Pique
Fleece Twill Jersey Oxford Pique
Quickwash Test
AATCC TM 135 test 5 cycles

Quickwash Accessories
 QuickView™
Optical measurement for

fabric shrinkage testing
Uses digital camera with

microprocessor analysis
No grid placement or
alignment required

Quickwash Accessories
 QuickTemp™
Electronic temperature
controller for domestic
laundry machines used
in a laboratory
Control wash and rinse

water temperature within
1°C

Specimen Preparation
Accessories
 QuickPunch™
Tabletop device for

stamping out multiple
fabric specimens
Cuts precise and accurate
specimens quickly and
safely
Prepares specimens for
variety of textile tests

Accessories
 QuickCircle™
Cut standard 100 cm2

round specimens easily
Precise specimens cut by
pressing a button
Blade spins with equal
pressure incision

Accessories
 QuickCalc™
Determines fabric yield

Converts standard 100 cm2
round specimen weight
to g/m2 or oz/yd2
Features ratio analysis for

blended materials

Accessories
 QuickDry™
Dries specimens in 7 to 10
minutes
Tumbling action and warm
air circulation eliminates
distortion
Smooth specimens for

easy measuring

Laundering Equipment
Applications
 Washfastness Tests
 Dry Cleaning Tests
 Efficiency of washing detergents
 Laboratory dyeing

Laundering Tests
 Common definitions:
Washfastness - the property of a material, usually an
assigned number, depicting a ranked change in its
color characteristics as a result of laundering,
drycleaning, or other means of soil removal

Common Laundering Test
Methods
 AATCC Test Method 61 - Accelerated test for

Home and Commercial Laundering
 AATCC Test Method 86 - Drycleaning of
Applied Designs and Finishes
 AATCC Test Method 132 - Drycleaning
 AATCC Test Method 151 - Resistance to Soil
Redeposition

Common Laundering Test
Methods
 ISO 105 C01 through C05 - Colorfastness to

washing tests which between them cover mild
to severe washing procedures
 ISO 105 C06 - Colorfastness to domestic and
commercial laundry
 ISO 105 D01 - Colorfastness to Drycleaning

 Accelerated test to evaluate colorfastness to

laundering
 One 45-minute test closely approximates five
hand, home or commercial washings
 Staining effects not as predictable
 Method first developed in 1950

 Abrasive action for acceleration caused by:
Frictional effects of fabric against the container,
Low solution ratio
Impact of steel balls on the fabric
 Several test methods specified for different
applications

 Specimen size 5cm by 10cm or 5cm by 15cm

depending on test cycle
 Use Multifiber Test Fabric for staining
determination
 Test method describes specific preparation
procedures for knitted fabrics, piles, and
yarns

Test No. 1A -- Hand laundering, Low Temp.

Test No. 2A -- Machine laundering, Low Temp.
Test No. 3A -- Heavy duty cycles, High Temp.
Test No. 4A -- Chlorine test, Low % Solution
Test No. 5A -- Chlorine test, High % Solution

Temp Liquid % No. Steel Time

Test No. (C) Volume Detergent Chlorine Balls (min.)
1A 40 200 mL 0.37 None 10 45
2A 49 150 mL 0.15 None 50 45
3A 71 50 mL 0.15 None 100 45
4A 71 50 mL 0.15 0.015% 100 45
5A 49 150 mL 0.15 0.027% 50 45

AATCC Launder-Ometer
 Atlas Launder-Ometer
accepted formally by
AATCC
 Optimum agitation
method
 Precise temperature
control
 Programmable cycle
testing AATCC Launder-Ometer®

AATCC Launder-Ometer®
 Used for washfastness

testing up to 93 °C
 Water bath stainless steel
construction
 Manually set thermostat
 20 position stainless steel
rotor 20 Position Rotor

AATCC Launder-Ometer®
 Programmable thermostat
Multiple step heating and
cooling programs
Storage for 99 programs
Digital temperature display
 Optional pre-heater
 Optional rotor for special
2400 mL container size
PS-5 Preheater Module

Atlas LP2 Launder-Ometer®
 High temperature dyeing up

to 150 °C
 Washfastness tester
 Glycerin or water bath
 Microprocessor control
 Multiple container sizes

Other Laboratory Dyeing -
Laundering Equipment
 Linitest+ Laboratory
Dyeing and Fastness
System
Referenced in ISO
Colorfastness to Laundering
Methods and corresponding
national tests
ISO 105 E12 - Fastness to
milling (severe tests)
Compact table top system
Manufactured in Germany

Washfastness Testing
 Industries
Textiles
Dye laboratories
Dye-stuff manufacturers
Producers of detergents

QUESTIONS????

Lightfastness Testing of
Textiles

Colorfastness to Light -

Textile Testing Elements
 Lightfastness
“The property of a material, usually an assigned
number, depicting a ranked change in its color
characteristics as a result of exposure of the
material to sunlight or an artificial light source.”
Loss of color (Fading)
Fiber degradation

Colorfastness to Light -Test
Methods
 AATCC Test Method 16
Used by Majority of Textile Manufacturers in USA
 ISO 105 B02
Used by Majority of Textile Manufacturers in Europe
Approximately 60% use Air Cooled / 40% use
Water Cooled
 SAE J1885
A severe test used by US automobile manufacturers

 Option A, D - Carbon-Arc
 Option C - Daylight
 Option E, F - Water-Cooled Xenon-Arc
 Option H, I, J - Air-Cooled Xenon-Arc
Options for each device represent continuous or

alternating light/dark cycles

Test Method 16 - Option C
(Daylight)
 Test specimens exposed behind glass
2 mm single strength sheet glass
 Specimens should be at least 75 mm below
glass surface
 Different exposure types will give different
exposure temperature conditions
Open backed - Lower temperatures
(Solid) backed - Higher temperatures

Under Glass Exposure Rack

Static Indirect
Glass Solar Energy Transmittance
80
60
40
20
0
310
300
320
330
340
350
360
370
380
390
400
Wavelength (nm)
SS Window Glass Laminated
Herculite (clear) LOF EZ-Kool
Laboratory Accelerated Tests
Desirable Characteristics:
 Exact match to end-use conditions

 Does not alter degradation mechanisms;
i.e. “correlates” with end-use
 Repeatable and reproducible
 Independent control over stress factors
 Provides “acceleration” over real time

Lightfastness to AATCC 16
 Principles
Specimens (and AATCC Blue Wool Standards)are
exposed under specified conditions.
The duration of the exposure is usually determind by a
specified amont of light exposure in AATCC Fading
Units (AFU)
The Lightfastness is evaluated visually by comparison of
the contrasts between exposed and unexposed
protions of the specimens to the steps of the „ AATCC
Gray Scale for Color Change“ or instrumental by Color
measurement.
Lightfastness classification by evaluation versus the
simultaneously exposed AATCC Blue Wool Standards

AATCC Fading Units
 One AATCC Fading Unit (AFU) is 1/20 of the
exposure required to produce a color change
equal to Step 4 of the Gray Scale for Color
Change on an L4 Blue Wool
 20 AFUs determined to be 85 kJ/m2 @ 420
nm exposure based on interlaboratory test
study
 L4 used for instrument calibration:
Fading of L4 equal to step 4 Gray Scale or Delta E
1,7 +- 0,3 in 20 +- 2 hours

Test Method 16 - Options E, F
(Water-Cooled Xenon Arc)
Option E Option F
63°C BPT 63°C BPT
43°C Dry Bulb 43°C Dry Bulb
Continuous Light 3.8 Hrs Light/1.0 Hrs Dark
30% R.H. 35% R.H./90% R.H.
Soda Lime Outer Filter Soda Lime Outer Filter
Borosilicate Inner Filter Borosilicate Inner Filter
1.10 W/m2 @ 420 nm 1.10 W/m2 @ 420 nm

Filtered Xenon Arc Vs. Sunlight
Relative Irradiance (W/m2 per nm)
Wavelength in nanometers
Test Method 16 - Option H
(Air-Cooled Xenon Arc)
Option H
60°C BST
32°C Dry Bulb
Continuous Light
30% Relative Humidity
Seven special Borosilicate IR Absorbing Filters
1.25 W/m2 @ 420 nm

Test Method 16 - Options I, J
(Air-Cooled Xenon Arc)
Option I Option J
70°C BST 70°C BST
43°C Dry Bulb 43°C Dry Bulb
Continuous Light 3.8 Hrs Light/1.0 Hrs Dark
30% R.H. 35% R.H./90% R.H.
Soda Lime Outer Filter Soda Lime Outer Filter
Quartz Inner Filter Quartz Inner Filter
1.10 W/m2 @ 420 nm 1.10 W/m2 @ 420 nm

Air-cooled Xenon
 Meets requirements of ISO
105 test methods
 Option for high irradiance
(220 W/m2 - 300 to 400
nm)
 Same control features as
other high-end xenon arc
devices
 Meets requirements of
Options H, I, and J
Xenotest® Alpha
Lightfastness to ISO 105
Designation Year Title

A 01 1994 General Principles
A 02 1993 Grey Scale for Assessing Change in Colour
A 05 1996 Instrumental Assessment of Change in Colour
B 01 1994 Colourfastness to (Natural) Daylight

B 02 1994 Colourfastness to Artificial Daylight: Xenon
Arc

Weatherfastness to ISO 105
Designation Year Title

B 03 1994 Colourfastness to Weathering: Outdoor
exposure
B 04 1994 Colourfastness to Artificial Weathering:

Xenon Arc

ISO Blue Wool Standards
Standard 1 or L2
Standard 2 or L3
Standard 3 or L4
Second Cover Standard 4 or L5
Standard 5 or L6
Standard 6 or L7
Standard 7 or L8
Standard 8 or L9
First Cover

Procedure and Evaluation to
ISO 105
 Procedure 1 : Inspection of Specimen
Expose one specimen together with one set of Blue Wool
Standards until a contrast equal to Grey Scale step 4 – 5
(first break) is observed between exposed and unexposed
portions of the specimen
Note the number of the Blue Wool Standard showing the same
contrast
Continue exposure until the contrast is equal to Grey Scale
step 4
Change the cover mask
step 3
.
ISO 105
 Procedure 2 : Inspection of Blue Wool Standards
Expose several specimens together with one set of Blue Wool
Standards until a contrast equal to Grey Scale step 4 – 5
(first break) is observed between exposed and unexposed
portions of the Blue Wool Standard 3
Inspect specimens and note changes compared to Standards
1 – 3 (prelimanary assessment)
step 4 – 5 on Blue Wool Standard 4
step 4 – 5 on Blue Wool Standard 6
step 4 on Blue Wool Standard 7

ISO 105
 Procedure 3 : checking conformity with a
performance specification
Expose the specimens with only 2 Blue Wool Standards: -
the Standard of the requested lightfastness, e.g. 5
- the standard below, e g. 4
Expose until contrasts to Grey Scale Steps 4 and 3 (by
changing cover masks) have been obtained on the standard
of the requested lightfastness

Standard Requirements to ISO
105 B02 - 1994
Operation Turning Mode
Filter system Light Filter with a transmission of 90% betwen 380 nm

and 750 nm, falling to 0 % between 310 nm and 320 nm
Irradiance recommended 42 W/m² ( 300 – 400 nm) for instruments using irradiance
control features
Max. Black Panel Temperature 45 °C (normal cond.)/ 60 °C low H. / 40 °C high H.

Max. Black Standard Temperature 50 °C / 65 °C / 45 °C
Rel.Humidity: Light Fastness on 5 /6–7 /3

Red Control Fabric

Instrument Settings
Setting Xenotest 150 S Xenotest Alpha
Filter System Lantern with 7 IR-Filters+ Lantern with 7 IR Filters

Borosilicate Cylinder + Borosilicate Cylinder
Irradiance (300-400nm) Power step 2 42 W/m²
Max. BPT / BST 45 / 50 °C 45 / 50 °C

(normal conditions)
Relative Humidity 40 – 50 % 30 – 40 %
(normal conditions) should be checked with should be checked with
Control Fabric Control Fabric

The answer should be on your
desk!

Follow the directions exactly
--Calibration
--Instrument settings
--Lamp Filters

Ask Questions
Resources----
• Atlas Representative
• AATCC, ASTM, etc
technical staff
• Your customer
• Your supplier

Other things to examine
 Specimen Thickness
 Specimen Mounting
The irradiance received on the surfaces of an

exposed specimen is inversely proportional to
the square of the distance from the source.

Irradiance Considerations
93,000,000 miles
Specimens exposed at any point (or elevation) on the

earth’s surface will not be affected by distance.

 Different size instruments are calibrated to
compensate for differences in rack diameter
 Features to improve uniformity
Rotating rack around the light source
Three-tier inclined rack design
Proper lamp calibration

10 in.
9 in.

Applying the inverse square law:
(Distance1)2
Irradiance =
(Distance2)2
(10)2
1.23 =
(9)2
Conclusion: A specimen that extends one inch beyond
the specimen holder will receive 1.23 times the
irradiance reported by the fading device.
18.5 in.
17.5 in.

Applying the inverse square law:
(Distance1)2
Irradiance =
(Distance2)2
(18.5)2
1.12 =
(17.5)2
Conclusion: A specimen that extends one inch beyond

the specimen holder will receive 1.12 times the
irradiance reported by the fading device.
Irradiance - Without Control
Irradiance
100 200 500 600

Time (hours)
Irradiance With Control
Irradiance
100 200 500 600

Time or Radiant Exposure (kJ/m2)
Colorfastness to Light - Test
Methods
Other Lightfastness Test Methods

 AATCC Test Method 111 - Weather Resistance
111A, C - Carbon Arc (with/without wetting)
111B - Natural Light and Weather (Direct Exposure)
111D - Natural Light and Weather (Behind Glass)
 AATCC Test Method 177 - Elevated Temp. and
Humidity
 DIN 75202
 DIN 54004

Direct Weathering
45° South Exposure Rack

Standard Reference Materials
AATCC Blue Wool
 AATCC Blue Wool Lightfastness Standard
One of a group of dyed wool fabrics distributed by
AATCC for use in determining the amount of light
exposure of specimens during lightfastness testing
Various proportions of wool blends with a very
unstable dyestuff
L2 through L9 - Increasing degree of light stability

AATCC Blue Wool
 Differs from the ISO Blue Wool standards

CANNOT be used interchangeably
 Each higher numbered standard is twice as
colorfast as the proceeding number
 More uniform and reproducible results when
the Blue Wool is backed with white cardboard

AATCC Blue Wool
 Humidity and temperature sensitive

 Can be used as troubleshooting tool for
lightfastness equipment for many factors
 Color change in AATCC Blue Wool performed
the same as with test textile specimens

AATCC Blue Wool
 Designed for use as a dosimeter for

determining exposure
This use is becoming less common with the advent
of accurate radiometers
 L2 and L4 are used almost exclusively today

Radiometric Quantities (Selected)
Radiant Energy: Energy passed on as electromagnetic
radiation, e.g. heat, radio, light
Irradiance: Radiant flux incident per unit area of surface
Units = W/m2
Spectral Irradiance: Irradiance measured as a function of
wavelength
Units = W/m2 . nm
W = Watts s = Seconds m = Meter

nm = Nanometer J = Joule

Radiometric Quantities
Radiant Exposure: Time integral of irradiance

(Irradiation)
J/m2 = W/m2 . s
kJ/m2 = 1000 J/m2
... To convert a value given in J/m2 to kJ/m2 , you must divide by
1000
2 1
kJ/m = W/m2 . s
1000
Radiometric Quantities
 When exposure time is expressed in hours (h)
one must convert to seconds.
W 1 s
kJ/m2 = 2
• h • • 3600
m 1000 h
Thus the familiar equation:
kJ/m2 = W/m2 • 3.6 • h

Example
 Use of equation:
kJ/m2 = W/m2 x 3.6 x (h)
To determine duration of a test for specific radiant exposure:
500 kJ/m2 • nm @ 420nm
When operating at an irradiance level of 1.10 W/m2 • nm:
500 kJ/m2 = 1.10 W/m2 x 3.6 x (h)
500 kJ/m2
h = = 126 light hours
1.10 W/m2 x 3.6

AATCC Fading Units
 One AATCC Fading Unit (AFU) is 1/20 of the
exposure required to produce a color change equal to
Step 4 of the Gray Scale for Color Change on an L4
Blue Wool
 20 AFUs determined to be 85 kJ/m2 @ 420 nm

exposure based on interlaboratory test study

Calculation of Radiant Exposure
 Visualevaluation of color change of Blue
Wool defined to determine (or verify) radiant
exposures
 Many companies use spectrophotometer to
measure change
Spectrophotometers measure color differently than
the human eye
Tables that define Step 4 of Grey Scale color
change confusing
 Because of confusion, reproducibility may
suffer

QUESTIONS????

Evaluation
 We don’t know if the
test is right if the
answer isn’t understood

AATCC Gray Scale
Designed for visual evaluation

of color change or staining.
AATCC Gray Scale
 AATCC Evaluation Procedure 1
Gray Scale for Color Change
Describes the scale and use for visual color
evaluation
Defines Step 4 to be 1.7 ± 0.3 E Color Units
Based on CIE 1976 L*a*b* color scale
E = [(L*)2 + (a*)2 + (b*)2 ]½

AATCC Gray Scale
 AATCC Evaluation Procedure 7 Instrumental
Assessment of the Change in Color of a Test
Specimen
States in scope to be an “alternative” to Evaluation
Procedure 1
Defines Step 4 of Gray Scale to be  1.25 and <2.10
Based on EF which is used to represent the special
gray scale color difference and separate this E
from others in normal use.
EF = [(L*)2 + (CF)2 + (HF)2 ]½

Color Evaluation of Textiles
Gray Scale for Color Change
Gray Scale for Staining
Instrumental Color Measurement
Instrumental Assessment of the Change in Color of
a Test Specimen

Color Evaluation - Gray Scale
 Definition of a Gray Scale (from AATCC)
A scale consisting of pairs of standard gray chips,
the pairs representing progressive differences
in color or contrast corresponding to numerical
colorfastness grades.
Rating scale from 5 (no change)
to 1(most change)

 Important factors to consider when
performing visual color evaluation:
Light Quality (Spectral Power Distribution)
Light Quantity
Viewing Angle
Reporting color change quantitatively and
qualitatively
Experience of observer

 Light Quality (Spectral Power Distribution)
Illuminant D75 - Overcast northern sky
Illuminant D65 - Average daylight
Illuminant D50 - Color photography applications
Illuminant A - Home/business incandescent
Illuminant F2 - “Cool white” fluorescent

 Light Quantity
AATCC Procedure 1 - Requires at least 538 lux (50
lumens/ft2 or footcandles)
ASTM D1729
• 1080 to 1340 lux (critical evaluation)
• 810 to 1880 lux (general evaluation)
 Large variations in output occur depending on
the distance from the light source.

 Viewing Angle and Conditions
Incident light upon the surface - 45° ± 5°
Observer viewing angle - 90° ± 5°
Light Source
Observer line
of sight Sample plane
90°
45°

 Other factors:
Light source should be semi-directional to view
specimen texture
Surrounding area should be neutral in color
Gloss of surrounding area should be low
Gray scale and lighting apparatus should be
checked and maintained frequently

 Reporting
Change in lightness - Numerical grade
Change in hue - Bluer, yellower, redder, etc.
Change in chroma - Change in saturation of color
 Metamerism - color match under a specified

light source but differing spectral curves

Experience and training for gray scale
evaluation is extremely important because of
rating subjectivity
ASTM D1499 identifies several tests for color

change acuity:
Color Blindness Test

(Ishihara) Triangle Test
Color Rule Test HVC (Hue, Value, and
Farnsworth-Munsell 100 Chroma) Color Vision Skill
Hue Test Test

Staining Evaluation - Gray
Scale
 Same basic evaluation techniques and

parameters
 Compared to “gray” scale using a nominally
white chip as the comparison
Note: The amount of color difference, based on Table I of

Procedure 1 and 2, is different for each scale.

Color Evaluation Tools
 Atlas Equipment
Color-Chex
TLL 600/1200 Total Daylight System
Variolux
 Other manufacturers

Color-Chex™
 Used in several
industries other
than textiles
 All specified light
sources
 Designed to meet
specific viewing
conditions
• Fits on
desktop

Variolux
 Used in several
industries other than
textiles
 Large viewing area
 Large opening for
large samples
 Light sources have
separate hour
counter

TLL 600/1200 Total Daylight System
 Used in office or
laboratory
environments
 Overhead lighting
system
 Illuminant D65 light
source
 Produces controlled
reproducible systems

Color Evaluation - Instrumental
 Geometry
Diffuse (sphere) or 0/45
 Illuminant
Same light sources available as visual methods
 Color Scale
1976 CIE L* a* b*
Calculating and reporting color change

Color Evaluation
Although instrumental color evaluation provides

more repeatable, precise data, it is usually the
visual color evaluation that is used as the
determining factor whether a material “passes
or fails” any given colorfastness test.

Multifiber Test Fabrics
 Used to determine staining effects (as a result

of tests) on several types of common fabric
 Referenced in laundering, perspiration, and
other test methods
 Typical use is to sew test material onto
Multifiber

Multifiber Test Fabrics
 Multifiber No. 1 and FB contain bands of
acetate, cotton, nylon, silk, viscose rayon,
and wool (0.8 cm wide bands)
 Multifiber No. 10, 10A, FA, and FAA contain
bands of acetate, cotton, nylon, polyester,
acrylic, and wool

QUESTIONS????

 Lightfastness
 Washfastness
 Color Transfer
 Surface Appearance
 Flammability

 Lightfastness
“The property of a material, usually an assigned
number, depicting a ranked change in its color
characteristics as a result of exposure of the material
to sunlight or an artificial light source.”
Loss of color (Fading)
Fiber degradation

 Washfastness
“The property of a material, usually an assigned number,
depicting a ranked change in its color characteristics as a
result of washing or laundering processes.”
Color Transfer
Shrinkage
Fiber degradation
Loss of Color (Fading)

 Color Transfer - Rubbing & Heat
Crocking
Perspiration
Hot Pressing
 Surface Appearance
Pilling
Edge and Surface Abrasion
Fabric Streaking
Color Appearance under Light

 Flammability
Ignition
Flame Spread
Heat Release (before flashover)
Smoke, Toxicity (wall coverings, upholstery, etc.)

Flammability Testing
 Common definition:
Flammability is those characteristics of a
material that pertain to its relative ease to
ignite and relative ability to sustain
combustion.

Flammability Testing
 Governed by Consumer Product Safety
Commission (CPSC)
Apparel: 16 CFR Part 1610
Children’s
Sleepwear: 16 CFR Parts 1615
and 1616

AFC 45 Flame Chamber
 Used for apparel textiles
• Plain surfaces
• Raised fiber surfaces
 Also meets ASTM
D 1230

 Specimen positioned at
45º angle
1 second flame
impingement
 Test stops when stop
cord breaks or specimen
self-extinguishes

 Brushing device for raised
fiber surfaces

VFC Vertical Flame Chamber
 Specimens suspended
vertically
 Flame applied for 12
seconds
 Char length measured
• VFC with Children’s

Sleepwear Burner

VFC Vertical Flame Chamber
 For testing children’s
sleepwear
 Also used for other
textiles, camping
tentage, foam
 Also meets ASTM
D 6413 and California
TB-117 • VFC with ASTM
burner

QUESTIONS????


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Textile Testing Quality Control

Path to the Customer’s Heart

Textile Test Products 2002

Textile Test Products 2002

 Ancient Rome, 2000 years ago

Textile Test Products 2002

Textile Test Products 2002

 Standards become legally binding

Textile Test Products 2002

Textile Test Products 2002

Textile Test Products 2002

(often in company standards, American standards, “old“ ISO

may describe the performance of the test

(“new“ ISO standards, CEN standards)

Textile Test Products 2002

Textile Test Products 2002

advantage: does not retard the technical progress

disadvantage: open for competitors

disadvantage: may increase variability

Textile Test Products 2002

Regional (European, Arabian countries, Latin America, ...)

National ANSI, BSI, DIN, JISC, ...

Industry Association AATCC, SAE, VDA, ...

Company JC Penney, Marks & Spencer,

Textile Test Products 2002

 IEC - International Electrotechnical Commission

Textile Test Products 2002

Textile Test Products 2002

 CENELEC - European Committee for

Textile Test Products 2002

Textile Test Products 2002

Textile Test Products 2002

TC 35 (Paints) TC 139 (Paints)

TC 38 (Textiles) TC 248 (Textiles)

TC 61 (Plastics) TC 249 (Plastics)

Textile Test Products 2002

Textile Test Products 2002

Textile Test Products 2002

 AATCC - American Association of

Textile Test Products 2002

Textile Test Products 2002

 Crocking - A transfer of colorant from the

Textile Test Products 2002

 Applicable to many textile materials including

Textile Test Products 2002

 AATCC Test Method 8 - Basic Crockmeter Method

Textile Test Products 2002

 Recommended specimen size 5cm by 13cm

Textile Test Products 2002

 For the wet test:

Textile Test Products 2002

 Method is especially useful for prints where

Textile Test Products 2002

 Testing before/after treatments such as

Textile Test Products 2002

Textile Test Products 2002

Textile Test Products 2002

Textile Test Products 2002

 Crocking finger may need resurfacing

Textile Test Products 2002

Textile Test Products 2002

 Fabric rotated within an

Textile Test Products 2002

 Results affected by: