Pipli, Orissa

 What is Applique?  Findings

 Review
 History
 How to identify?
 Theory
 Principle properties of
materials used and
characteristics that justifies
its selection
 Methodology
 Locale of the study
 Type of study
 Sampling  Conclusion
 Data collection tools used
 Tool Requirements
 Materials Required
 Process flow
 Process parameters  References
 Types of Application
 Design
 Geometrical features
 Styles
 Ergonomics
 Environmental issues
 Pricing
 Market study
 Brand comparison
 Visits to manufacturing units and
markets
 Learning outcome
 Technological advancement
 Future scope and development/
R&D
 •Applique derives the word
from APPLIQER.

•It means to cover or put on.

Patchwork defines applique.

 COMMON MAN HISTORY TRIBAL HISTORY
People began using other Many tribals used applique
bits of cloth to cover up holes in tents and dwellings.
in clothing items.

THE ROYAL HISTORY

Kings appointed craftsmen
skilled in designing the
canvas cloth that is used to
cover the chariots of Lord
Jaganath.
• Patchwork of fabric
patches layered on a
foundation fabric
• Hand stitched (now
machines are used too)
• Raw ends stitched with
decorative stitches
•VIBRANT
COLOURS

•NATURE
INSPIRED
MOTIFS(PLANTS,
ANIMALS, BIRDS)

• HAND STITCHED

•GLASSWORK
 Applique basically cuts up various coloured fabrics
which are then sewn to the surface of another
foundation fabric.
 It has now developed into a needlework technique in
which smaller pieces of fabric materials like small
mirrors and other forms of embroidery are sewn onto
a bigger piece of the cloth to create.
 Traditionally, cloth used was Canvas Cloth.
 It initiation was to make shamianas for Lord Jagannath
and tents.
 Hence, it was important the items were strong along
with aesthetic beauty.
 Canvas cloth and Pathchwork enhanced strength.
 Pathchword and stiches enhanced aesthetic value.
 Collecting information from books, journals,
magazines, internet.
 Preparing questionnaire.
 Locating a nearby production cluster.
 Field visit to the cluster for collecting detailed
information.
 Understanding the process flow.
 Preparing a sample.
 Books
 Journals
 Internet websites
 Field visit
 Questionnaire
 Pen/pencil for making the outline
 Needle
 Thimble
 Scissors
 SNLS machine
 Fabric usually Cotton and velvet
 Base cloth
 Threads for embroidery and stitching
 Embellishments(mirrors,lace,zari)
 Wires
 Cardboards for proforma
1. Pattern making
2. Choosing the raw materials
3. Designing (By drawing or tracing)
4. Cutting
5. Stitching the patchwork
6. Embroidery / Embellishments
7. Stitching the parts of product together
8. Finishing
A card board is taken

Measurements as per the

product are drawn on it

The forma is cut out

A basic model of
product is made
 Usually the products like shamiana and wall hangings
and other decorative items are made with colourful
canvas cloth.
 Utility items like shoulder bags, wallets etc are made
with jute cloth as a base and a cotton cloth
 A motif is selected.
 The measurements are done with correct proportions.
 The outline is drawn in the fabric.
Cutting the
motifs/patchwork.

Cutting the
different parts of
the product.
 Embroidery/ embellishments
 Appliqué craft is mainly based upon the chikana or
chain stitch .
 . Bakhia (stem stitch)
 Taropa (hem stitch)
3.Guntha (run stitch)
4. Khanja (tag stitch)
5. Button-hole stitch
6.Ganthi (similar to
button-hole stitch)
7.Kitikitia (variation on button-hole stitch)
9. Ruching (running stitch)
8. Baiganomangia Kitikitia
Types of patti (strips) are described below along with
their colour combinations and measurements.

 Phula patti (flower motif): black background with flower of

red, yellow, white, or green, 7-9 inches.

 Sadha patti or naafi patti (plain red strip): always red, 5-6
inches.
 Nahara patti (right-facing cone pattern): white, red, and
black combination, 5-6 inches.
 Kalaso patti (pitcher strip): black background, white
pitcher pattern, 6 inches.
 Beliri patti (strip from left to right): white and red strip, 4-
41h inches.
Mooda patti (strip from right to left): white, red, and black
or blue combina-tion, 5-6 inches.
 Gula patti (wavy strip): black background, chain stitch
with red or white thread, 5-6 inches.
 Hirana patti (mogra flower strip): red
background, flower of white cloth, 3 inches.
 Chaina patti (strip of embroidered patterns in
chain stitch): 3 inches.
 Khandiyali patti (diamond-shaped strip): red and
black square (chauka) pania (triangular strip on top
and bottom edge) cloth, 5-6 inches.
 Chauka patti (square strip): background of black and
blue, with chain of white thread, 5-6 inches.
 Sua patti (swan strip): background of red with green
sua, 5-7 inches.
 Hansa patti (swan strip): black background, with red
and yellow hansa, 5-7 inches.
 Chidiya patti (clubs strip): black background with
chidiya of red and yellow or red background chidiya of
black and yellow, 4 inches.
 PATCHWORK
Motifs used in applique include trees, creepers,
leaves, flowers, birds, animals, fish, celestial
bodies, symbols and other motifs, which are given
in detail below:
 Tree: belagaccha (tree of Bael or Aegle marmelos
correa).
 Leaves (patra): bela (leaf of Bael); banka; pana
(betelleaf); suji.
 Flowers: malli (mogra); padma, tarup, guntha (types
of lotus); surya mukhi (sunflower); utha phula
(raised flower); sunsuniya
 Birds: sua (parrot); bataka (duck); hansa (swan);
mayur (peacock); ganda maurya or bhairaba (double-
headed peacock).
 Creeper: tohi or dali.
 Animals: hat; (elephant); singho (lion).

 Fish: matsha.
Heavenly bodies:
surya (sun);
chandra (moon).
 Other: Rahu (demon who swal10ws the sun and moon
during eclipses); kangula (triangular-shaped motif);
flag.
 Joining
 Attaching wires
Qualitative and quantitative aspects of physical and functional
characteristics of a component, device, product, or system that
are input to its design process.
Design parameters determine cost, design, and risk tradeoffs
in the item's development.

 Spacious workshop
 Storage space
 Lights
 Fans
 Utilities
 Distance between consecutive machines
 Lead time
 Sujini (embroidered quilt)
 MOST WIDELY USED: Flower Patchwork
 Mainly influenced from nature and everyday life.
 Differents shapes or fabrics are cut.
 It includes geometric shapes like triangles and
rectangles.
 MOST WIDELY USED STYLES: Lord Jagannath
 Patchwork stitching is the
 The arrangement of structural patterns and the
combination of different colours form the main theme.
Ergonomics can be defined
simply as the study of work.
More specifically, ergonomics
is the science of designing the
job to fit the worker, rather
than physically forcing the
worker’s body to fit the job.
Adapting tasks, work stations,
tools, and equipment to fit the
worker can help reduce
physical stress on a worker’s
body and eliminate many
potentially serious, disabling
workrelated musculoskeletal
disorders (MSDs).
Lifting/lowering tasks: lifting sewing machines for cleaning
Upper Body Posture: straight, sometimes bent forward
Entire Body Posture: sitting
Pushing/pulling: none
Hand-Arm Vibration: working with sewing machines
 broderie perse (Persian embroidery), or chintz
appliqué.
 Many fashion designers have used appliqué in
their lines: Elsa Schiaparelli, Franco Moschino,
Gianni Versace, Bob Mackie, and Christian Francis
Roth are examples. Koos van den Akker's entire
line is devoted to quilted, appliquéd collages.