M.DES.

FDP
BASIC SHOE MAKING
(FOUNDATION COURSE)
TOPIC:CUTTING MATERIAL TYPES

Prepared by:
Vishal
Sr. Faculty (FT)
Cutting Department (FDDI,Noida)

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INTRODUCTION TO MATERIALS IN CUTTING ROOM
FOR LEATHER SHOES

 Materials in cutting room for leather shoes can be classified

as per below mentioned:
1. Upper Materials
2. Lining Materials
3. Intermediate Materials
4. Bottom Materials

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INTRODUCTION TO MATERIALS IN CUTTING ROOM
FOR LEATHER SHOES

PARTS OF SHOES

BOTTOM
UPPER

OUTER LININGS INTERLINING ACCESSORIES

UPPER S & BACKER

HEEL OUTER SOLE MIDSOLE INSOLE SOCKS

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 TYPES OF UPPER LEATHER

What is Leather:
Leather is the non-putrescible product obtained by an irreversible
processing(tanning) of hide or skin.

 Hide: Hide is the outer covering of larger animals.

e.g. Cow , Buffalo etc.
 Side: Side is the outer covering of smaller animals.
e.g.Goat, Sheep, Pig etc.

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 TYPES OF UPPER LEATHER

 Hides and skins differ in structure depending upon:

• The breed of the animal
• Origin of the animal
• Mode of life
• Food
• Environmental conditions
• Age etc.

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 TYPES OF UPPER LEATHER

 Classification of upper leather in shoe industry is based on

the following factors:
a. Types of origin
b. Type of leather
c. Type of finish

 Major type of origin used in shoe industry are:

• Cow
• Buffalo
• Goat
• Sheep
• Pig

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Cow Leather
 TYPES OF UPPER LEATHER
Types of Upper leather used in Footwear:

Cow Leather:
There is firmness of grain , smaller collagen fibre bundles and smaller &
closer hair follicles are found in Cow leather.

 Cow leather is available in various types of finishes and thicknesses.

 It is used to make formal, casual shoe for Gents, Ladies & Kids.

 For Gents Shoes stuck on :Upper thickness is taken 1.2-1.4 mm.

 For Gents Shoes Strobel:Upper thickness is taken 1.2-1.4 mm.

 For Gents shoes Stitch down: Upper thickness is taken 1.4-1.6 mm.
Buffalo Leather
 TYPES OF UPPER LEATHER
Buffalo leather:
In case of buffalo leathers , the hair pores are less in number and the
Pore diameter vary widely.

 Buff leather is available in various types of finishes and thicknesses.

 It is used to make formal, casual shoe for Gents, safety shoes, Army boots etc.

 For Gents Shoes stuck on :Upper thickness is taken 1.2-1.4 mm.

 For Gents Shoes Strobel: Upper thickness is taken 1.2-1.4 mm.

 For Gents shoes Stitch down: Upper thickness is taken 1.4-1.6 mm.

 For Moccasin unlined shoes upper thickness may be taken up to 1.6-1.8 mm.

 For safety shoes the minimum upper thickness is taken 1.4-1.6 mm.
TYPES OF LEATHER
Sheep Skin:
 Sheep skins as compared to
goat have less tight fibre
structure.
 Thickness for sheep is found
0.6-0.9 mm.

 The wool sheep are more

porous whereas the hair
sheep is more tighter.

 As this leather having good

softness, so it is widely used
as upper leather in the
making of ladies shoes,
sandals, boots etc.
TYPES OF LEATHER
Goat Skin:
 Goat skins as compared to
sheep have very tight firm
fibre structure but have less
fats.
 Thickness for goat is found
0.6-0.9 mm.
 Grain is very compact so
these skins are used in
manufacture of premium
quality shoes for ladies and
Gents.
 TYPES OF UPPER LEATHER
Full Grain Leather:
 Only best hides are
selected for this type
of leather.
 It is made in two
forms – first one is
Aniline Finish
 Second one is Semi
Aniline Finish
 Main feature of this
leather is its natural
look.
 TYPES OF UPPER LEATHER

BUFF FULL GRAIN COW FULL GRAIN

 TYPES OF UPPER LEATHER

We can see its grain patterns.

Even any minor defects are there then they are
also visible.
Easy to identify the type of species due to clear
visibility of grain patterns.
Used in making of high grade footwears.
 TYPES OF UPPER LEATHER

NUBUCK LEATHER NUBUCK LEATHER

 TYPES OF UPPER LEATHER

NUBUCK LEATHER NUBUCK LEATHER

 TYPES OF UPPER LEATHER
Nubuck leather:

 Leather snuffed on the

grain side (by using fine
emery paper )is known as
Nubuck leather.
 It gives a supple leather
with fine nap & velvety
look .

 There is writing effect is

also found in good quality
nubuck leather.
 NUBUCK LEATHER
 Shade variation is also
found in the same skin.
 So during cutting
special precaution
should be taken to get
pair wise cutting.
 This is made from good
selection raw hides.
 It is considered as full
grain leather & used to
make expensive shoes.
 TYPES OF UPPER LEATHER

SUEDE LEATHER SUEDE LEATHER

 TYPES OF UPPER LEATHER
Suede Leather:
The leather with much of grain defects can be developed as
suede leather for which the flesh surface is buffed with coarse
emery paper.
 The buffing causes raised fibers (nap), which gives the velvety
touch and writing effect.
 Dye finish is carried out in this case without binder.
 After this proper fixation of the dye is done.
 This leather can be used as upper leather but for upper leather
top layer with good thickness should be taken.
 TYPES OF UPPER LEATHER
Split leather:
When a side is into two or more
thicknesses, each lower layer is
known as a split.

 This leather is created from the

fibrous part of the hide left once
the top-grain of the raw hide has
been separated from the hide.

 Heavier weight good quality

splits can be used as upper
materials.

 They are sueded and dyed.

 TYPES OF UPPER LEATHER

 As the fibre structures of

sueded surface is similar so,
this leather can be used in
making unlined shoes .
 Then the flesh side can be
sprayed with a plastic
coating.

 This plastic coating gives

more comfort due to smooth
surface.
 TYPES OF UPPER LEATHER
Corrected Grain Leather
(C.G. Leather):
 Defective or poor hides are
selected in this category.

 There is some treatment is done to

improve the quality of leather.

 Major defects are minimized by

doing buffing either in grain side
or flesh side.

 Then pigment is applied on the

grain side.
 TYPES OF UPPER LEATHER

COW C.G. C.G. WITH HEAVY PIGMENTS

 TYPES OF UPPER LEATHER

• Then there is heated press is applied.

• After a lot of correction & various treatment
cutting value increases but good leather
property decreases. C.G. leather becomes very
stiff .
• Flexibility of leather decreases.
• Grain patterns are not visible.
• Some time pigment split is made.
• Used to make safety shoes or any low grade
shoes.
 LINING LEATHER
Cow Lining: COW FULL GRAIN LINING
1.Cow Full Grain Lining
e.g. Cow DD .
This is through & through drum
died leather.

Thickness is 0.7-0.9 mm for

Gents Shoes .

Thickness for ladies shoes 0.5-

0.7 mm.

This is expensive lining & used

in high grade shoes.
LINING LEATHER COW SPLIT
Split Pigmented Leather (Cow): PIGMENTED
 Defective or poor
hides/sides are selected in
this category.

 These are taken from the

lower layers after splitting
of poor raw hides.

 Thickness is selected
according to the
requirement.
 LINING LEATHER
There is some treatment is done to improve the
quality of leather.
Major defects are minimized by doing buffing
either in grain side or flesh side.
Then a lot of pigment is applied on the grain
side or flesh side as per requirement.
Used to make safety shoes or any low grade
shoes
 LINING LEATHER
Split Suede lining leather:
 Side leather can be buffed or
snuffed with abrasive paper
to create suede finish on
either grain side or flesh
side.
 The raw hide/skin are split
into multiple layers
according to requirement .
 Lower parts are taken for
heel grip lining (thickness
0.7-0.9mm) .
 For Gents sandals socks
cushion thickness may be
1.0-1.2 mm.
 LINING LEATHER
SHEEP LINING SHEEP LINING
 LINING LEATHER

Sheep Lining:
Thickness is taken 0.7 - 0.9mm for
lining(Gents shoes).

Thickness is taken 0.5-0.7 mm for lining

( Ladies shoes).

Used in expensive shoes.

 LINING LEATHER
NATURAL LAMB FUR LINING
NATURAL LAMB FUR IN SHOE

LAMB FUR LINING

USED IN BOOT
 LINING LEATHER

Natural lamb Fur:

Sheep lining is available in the form of Natural
Fur (as a lining material).
It contains natural hair in the skin.
It is used in waterproof shoes, boots ( specially
cold countries) where minimum temperature
goes below freezing point.
 LINING LEATHER

Goat Lining:
Thickness is taken 0.7 - 0.9mm for
lining.(Gents shoes).
Thickness is taken 0.5-0.7 mm for lining
( Ladies shoes)
Used in expensive shoes.
 LINING LEATHER
GOAT LINING GOAT LINING
 LINING LEATHER

Pig Lining:
Thickness is taken 0.4-0.6 mm for pig
lining.(Gents shoes/ladies).
It is available in the following forms:
 Pig Full Grain (Pig Skin)
 Pig Glazed
 Pig suede
 LINING LEATHER
PIG SKIN LINING
(PIG FULL GRAIN LINING) PIG SUEDE LINING
 LINING LEATHER

PIG GLAZED LINING PIG FULL GRAIN LINING

 LINING LEATHER

PIG SUEDE LEATHER