COMPOSTING

NAME CHUAH CHONG KEN MATRIC NO. 106026

FARAH ADHILA BINTI AZMI

KHAIRIAH BINTI MOHD MOKHTAR NUR FATIN BINTI HARIS SYAFAWATI SYAINY BINTI MAT YUSOFF

106027
106030 106036 106043

1. Introduction & Purposes

2. Types Of Compost 3. Methods Of Composting

4. What Can & Cannot Be Compose

5. Factors Affecting The Composting Process 6. Advantages & Disadvantages 7. Examples Of Country/ State/ Company Practicising

What is composting?????
Composting is the biological decomposition of organic material into a humus-like substance called compost.

 To improve the quality of the soil naturally

Makes the soil fertile and it also improves the texture of the soil. It will have adequate drainage with the ability to conserve moisture. To maintain pH and nitrogen storage which will help your soil to feed the garden.

1. Aerobic composting

Steam

Aerobic composting
To compost with air. High nitrogen waste (like grass clippings or other green material) will grow bacteria that will create high temperatures (up to 160 degrees, you can see the steam in the picture). Organic waste will break down quickly and is not prone to smell. It is also likely to require accurate moisture monitoring. Often with the high temperature this type of composting will create dry pockets in the center of you compost. The debris breakdown will slow considerably when it becomes dry or cool. If you just throw a hose on the compost the water will likely go around the dry area. To solve this problem turn your compost while you are watering. This type of compost is good for large volumes of compost. Once it is done heating up it also becomes food for red worms and other soil organisms.

2. Anaerobic composting
Slime composting, this is composting without air. Low maintenance, throw it in a pile and wait a couple years.
If you just stack your debris in a pile it will generally compact to the point where there is no available air for beneficial organisms to live. Instead you will get a very slow working bacteria growing that does not require air. The compost may take years to break down (this is what happens when you throw your food waste in the garbage that goes to the landfill). Anaerobic composts create the awful smell most people associate with composting. The bacteria break down the organic materials into harmful compounds like ammonia and methane.

3. Vermicomposting

Food waste

Vermicomposting
most beneficial for composting food waste. Along with red worms, this includes composting with bacteria, fungi, insects, and other bugs. Some of these guests break down the organic materials for the others to eat. Redworms eat the bacteria, fungi, and the food waste, and then deposit their castings. Oxygen and moisture are required to keep this compost healthy. At times this compost may heat up due to the bacteria activity. When managed properly the heating process will be short and warm. This compost should not smell, but if it does it is likely there is too much moisture or your compost has become compacted. You need to aerate (or turn) your compost to get rid of the excess moisture. This is a medium maintenance compost since you need to feed your redworms and monitor the conditions. Redworms are good for producing vermicompost which is nutrient rich semi composted mulch with redworm castings. The longer you wait the more your compost will eventually become pure castings.

Home Composting Method

 Simple wire compost bin

-The wire compost bin is perfect for composting just about anything, from fall leaves and grass clippings to garden trimmings and kitchen scraps. Even better, it takes less than fifteen minutes to make, and requires hardly anything in the way of tools and materials.

Lasagna Gardening, (Sheet Composting)

-If you don't have space for a pile, or the inclination to maintain a bin, consider lasagna gardening, which is also commonly known as sheet composting. Basically, you're building a layered compost pile right where you plan to plant, resulting in healthy, fertile soil right from the start. As a bonus, this method requires no turning whatsoever.

 Trash can composter

-The trash can composter offers a decent amount of space for composting, yet is small enough for those of us who don't have a ton of room for composting. As a bonus, it works like a compost tumbler: when it's time to turn the contents, just lay it on its side and roll it around a little.

Vermicomposting
-If you want to reduce the amount of household waste that leaves your home, consider finding a way to compost your kitchen scraps. Vermicomposting provides a great opportunity to both reduce our waste and obtain a nutrient-rich, completely free source of compost for both outdoor and indoor gardens.

1. 2. 3. 4. 5.

Start with a good layer of coarse organic material, such as straw, leaves or pruning at the bottom to allow air to circulate. Add a good layer of nitrogen-rich green material followed by one layer of carbon-rich brown material, until the bin is full. Compost requires air. Turn and stir your compost weekly so the organism get necessary oxygen. Compost requires moisture. Water your compost bin frequently, to ensure it stays a moist as a wrung-out sponge. Give it time - In 12-18 months, material at the bottom and middle of the bin should be composted. Use this throughout your garden. Use the uncomposted material to start a new batch. Chipping or chopping the material can increase the speed of the process. Regular aeration is key to successful composting.

- http://www.richmond.ca/services/recycling/Composting.htm

WHAT TO COMPOSE
Green or nitrogen rich : -Urine (diluted with water 20:1) -Comfrey leaves -Nettles -Grass cuttings -Raw vegetable peelings from kitchen -Tea bags and leaves, coffee grounds -Young green weed growth -Soft green prunings

Brown or carbon rich : -Woody prunings -Old bedding plants -Bracken -Wood shavings -Fallen leaves -Cardboard (egg boxes)

WHAT NOT TO COMPOSE

Chemically-treated wood product : -Sawdust from construction sites, building project -Pressure treated wood (CCA treated wood) : woods tinted by chromium, copper and arsenic Pet wastes (e.g., dog or cat feces, soiled cat litter) : -Might contain parasites, bacteria, germs, pathogens, and viruses harmful to humans Yard trimmings treated with chemical pesticides : -Might kill beneficial composting organisms Charcoal- may contain toxic materials Non-biodegradable materials (plastics, metals, ceramics, cup foams)

a. Primary Consumers are organisms that eat organic residues : - bacteria - actinomycetes - psychrophiles - fungi ( molds & yeasts) - mesophiles - sowbugs - thermophiles - earthworms - millipedes b. Secondary Consumers are organisms that eat primary consumers : - nematodes - mites - protozoa - springtails c. Tertiary Consumers are organisms that eat secondary consumers : - centipedes

Carbon-to-Nitrogen Ratios
bacteria & fungi in compost: - digest or "oxidize" carbon as an energy source (food) - ingest nitrogen for protein synthesis (digestive system)

the ratio should be roughly 30 parts carbon to 1 part nitrogen (30:1) by weight
too much nitrogen may cause the generation of ammonia gas which can create unpleasant odors

Surface Area
Increasing the surface area of the material to be composted can be done by chopping, shredding, mowing, or breaking up the material increased surface area means that the microorganisms are able to digest more material, multiply more quickly, and generate more heat

Aeration
the replacement of oxygen to the center of the compost pile where it is lacking can happen naturally by wind, or when air warmed by the compost process rises through the pile and causes fresh air to be drawn in from the surroundings Composting systems or structures should incorporate adequate ventilation Turning the compost pile is an effective means of adding oxygen and brings newly added material into contact with microbes

Temperature
microorganisms generate heat as they decompose organic material effective temperature is between 32C and 60C

higher than 60C will inhibit the activity of many of important and active organisms in the pile

Moisture
microorganisms can only use organic molecules if they are dissolved in water moisture content of 40-60 %

falls below 40 % : microbial activity will slow down or become dormant

exceeds 60 % : aeration is hindered, nutrients are leached out, decomposition slows, and the odor from anaerobic decomposition is emitted squeeze test : Squeezing a handful of material should have the moisture content of a well wrung sponge a pile that is too wet can be turned or can be corrected by adding dry materials.

HOME AND GARDEN BENEFITS

It is easy Less garbage Your kitchen smells better It is inexpensive Create a rich fertilizer Save money Eat healthier Soil conditioner Destroy pathogen or unwanted weeds Suppress plant diseases and pests Promotes higher yields of agricultural

crops

ENVIRONMENTAL BENEFITS
Reduces toxins - cost-effectively remediate soils contaminated

by hazardous waste. Reduces pollution Prevent erosion Promotes healthy growth Mitigates climate change Reduces green house gases Manages storm water- remove solids, oil, grease, and heavy metals Facilitate reforestation, wetlands restoration, and habitat revitalization efforts by amending contaminated, compacted, and marginal soil Provide cost savings of at least 50 percent over conventional soil, water, and air pollution remediation technologies, where applicable.

DISADVANTAGES
Time Fertiliser Pests Odor Aesthetics Cannot compose everything Land required for composting and storage areas

Advanced Composting Techniques/Biodynamic Agriculture

BD prep 504 is made with Stinging Nettle plants when the plants are in full bloom they are harvested and stuffed together underground surrounded on all sides by peat for a year. - aids decomposition; - aids chlorophyll formation; - stimulates iron, potassium, calcium, magnesium and sulphur activity in the soil prep 508 is made from Meadow Horsetail (Equisetum) and is primarily used as a fungicide

BD prep 507 is made with Valerian flowers that are soaked in water and generally kept refrigerated. - stimulates the phosphorus process and mobilizes the phosphorus-activating; bacteria in the soil, as well as selenium and magnesium; - prevents flowering process becoming too excessive prep 508 is made from Meadow Horsetail (Equisetum) and is primarily used as a fungicide -as a fresh tea and is used to prevent and stop fungal growth, sooty mould and helps plants against becoming soft and open to mildew infection.

REFERENCES
http://www.epa.gov/waste/conserve/rrr/composting/benef

its.htm http://www.omafra.gov.on.ca/english/engineer/facts/05023.htm www.greatgreenidea.com/The-Advantages-of-Composting www.gardenersgardening.com/compost.html http://www.mansfieldct.org/Schools/MMS/compost/micr obes.htm http://www.howtocompost.org/info/info_composting.asp

Thank You