Wool

Wool

is the fibre from the fleece of domesticated sheep. It is natural , protein, multicellular, staple fibre. Density- 1.31g/cm3 ( make wool a medium weight fiber)

Neha singh, Assistant Professor, Textile Design, NIFT, N. Delhi

Fibre Morphology

The macro structure The wool fibre is a crimped, fine to thick, regular fibre. Fine wool 10 crimps per cm Coarse wool- 4 crimps per 10 cm As the diameter of wool fibres increases, the number of crimps per unit length decreases. Length- 5 cm for finest wool to 35cm for the longest and coarser wool. Diameter- 14micrometer for very fine wool to more than 45 micrometer for coarsest wools. Color- off-white to light cream

Microscopic appearance of wool

Longitudinal overlapping surface cell structure, these surface cells, known as epithelial cells and commonly called Scales, point towards the tip of the fibre.

The scales give the wool fibre a serrated surface. The presence of a dark, central line , or canal along the length of the wool fibre indicates the presence of a Medulla, which is cortical cell debris.

Felting of wool: It is the irreversible shrinkage of the length, breadth or

thickness of the yarn. This is done by subjecting the woolen textile to

agitation in an aqueous solution

Cross-section Oval Shape

The epithelial cells from a distinct perimeter, known as cuticle, around the fibre cross-section.

The cuticle surrounds the Cortex, which consists of Cortical cells. There are about 20 to 50 cortical cells along any one diameter of the cross section, depending upon the thickness of the wool.

The Micro structure of wool The wool fibre grows from a follicle in the skin of the sheep and is a highly complex skin tissue. The micro structure consists of three main componentsThe Cuticle Cortex Fibrils

  

Wool polymer: keratin ( repeating units: amino acids)



Cystine ( Sulpher containing amino acids) Crystallinity: 25-30 % crystalline

Physical properties

Tenacity- 1.4-2.4 g/d Wool is comparatively week fibre. The low tenacity strength of wool is due to the relatively few Hydrogen bonds that are formed.

The Elastic-Plastic nature Wool has very good elastic recovery and excellent resilience The ability of wool fibers to recover from being stretched or compressed is partly due to its crimped configuration and partly to the alpha-keratin configuration of the wool polymer.

Elongation: 25%

Hygroscopic nature The very absorbent nature of wool is due to the polarity of the peptide groups, the salt linkages and the amorphous nature of its polymer system.

In relatively dry weather wool may develop static electricity. This is because there are not enough water molecules present in its polymer +system to dissipate any static electricity which might develop.

Thermal Properties

Poor heat conductivity of wool and its low heat resistance. Applying excessive amounts of heat will result in brown-black surface discoloration of wool fibre.

Prolonged exposure to heat can result in scorching.

Chemical Properties

Effect of acid The wool is more resistance to acid than the alkali Wool polymer is weaken in acid solution but did not dissolve. Acid (not exceed 10%),without heating, with relatively low concentration solutions of acids (particularly H2SO4)does not reduce the wool strength and sometimes even increases.

Organic acids affect wool less than mineral acids.

Effect of Alkalis- alkalis not only impair the mechanical properties of wool also cause its yellowing, a decrease in the Sulpher content and partial solution of wool, the degree of these changes depends on the treatment conditions )the duration, temperature, kind of alkali and concentration.

Angora

The hair of the Angora rabbit is allowed to grow 3 or more inches long before it is clipped, sheared, or plucked. This process causes no harm to the animals and are carried out four times each year.

The total annual yield for a single Angora rabbit ranges from 7 to 14 ounces, is enough to construct one small garment, such as a short-sleeved sweater.

Clothing of Angora rabbit wool are usually have a very nice feel against the skin. Many people who find garments made of sheeps wool scratchy and uncomfortable find Angora wool comfortable.

Cashmere
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Properties Fibre is cylindrical, soft and silky, light weight In order to avoid pilling by local friction, the lining must be slippery Cashmere/ Pashmina can be dyed in different colors Care factors Preferably dry cleaned, should be dried in shade, not direct sunlight Cashmere garments should be folded and kept and should not be hanged to prevent deformation.

Alpaca

Alpaca fleece is a lustrous and silky natural fiber. While similar to sheeps wool, it is warmer, not prickly, and bears no lanolin, which makes it hypoallergenic. Without lanolin, it does not repel water. It is also soft and luxurious. In physical structure, alpaca fiber is somewhat akin to hair, being very glossy. The preparing, carding, spinning weaving and finishing process of alpaca is very similar to the process used for wool.

Mohair

Angora goats produce a very beautiful, luxurious and incredibly durable fibre called mohair.

It is one of the warmest natural fibres known and one of the most versatile.

Angora goats took their name from Ankara, an ancient Turkish city where they originated. Although the goats were farmed for their fibre from early times it was not until the 16th century that export of the goats was permitted.

It is a wool-like textile fibre ie it is a protein fibre. It has a smooth cuticular scale pattern on the surface that imparts lustre and it has low felting capacity.

This scale is different to the wool fibre scale and consequently is not 'itchy'.

The mohair is generally shorn from the animals twice a year. The mohair grows rapidly at about 2 cm per month. The fibres range from 23 microns in mean diameter at the first shearing to as much as 38 microns in older animals.

Insulating - Mohair's hollow fibres do not conduct heat like wool and provides good insulation, even when wet. Durability - Mohair can be twisted and bent without damage to the fibre; it is the most durable of animal fibres. Comfort - Mohair does not irritate the skin, even for people who are sensitive to wool. Strength - Mohair is stronger than steel of the same diameter. Shrink resistance - Mohair fabrics shrink much less than wool because mohair's smooth fibres do not felt. Elasticity - Mohair is very elastic; it can be stretched up to 30%, and will spring back to shape; mohair garments resist wrinkling, stretching, or sagging. Moisture transfer - Mohair easily absorbs and releases moisture, moving perspiration away from the skin. It is comfortable to wear in cold and hot weather. Luster - One of mohair's most important qualities is its ability to take dye and to display brilliant colours that resist fading by time or hard wear. Lightweight - Mohair's smooth fibres can be made into fabrics that have a cooling effect. It is ideal for summer garments. Non-flammability - Mohair will not burn unless it is exposed to a direct flame. Easy to Wash - Mohair does not felt or shrink.

Natural fibres like angora, cashmere and mohair are infrequently used. Why? .. Is the gum that holds the two strands of the silk filament together. The softness of silks lustre is due to the . Cross-section of the silk filament. Why cotton & wool lack lustre?