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Can Good Scotch Come from Seattle?
WASHINGTON STATE is admittedly a long way from the Highlands of Scotland. But when Seattle’s Westland Distillery opened in 2010, cofounder and master distiller Matt Hofmann was determined to use the greatest whiskey-making resource the Pacific Northw
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A New Way to Nightcap
For four generations, the Fougerat family has produced single-cask Cognac for larger, blended brands like Martell. But in 2013, 33-year-old scion Fanny—one of the French region’s few female master distillers—broke out and began selling her own undilu
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Desperately Seeking Cédric
BACK IN AUGUST, Parisian pastry chef Cédric Grolet began teasing his plans to open a boulangerie on Instagram. By late October, when I happened to be in town, the storefront windows at 35 Avenue de l’Opéra were plastered with a larger-than-life photo
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Genever Is the Original Juniper Spirit
A great many things disappear without a trace from our cultural memory, and had there been just a slight shift in the winds of change, we might never have forgotten about genever. After all, if it weren’t for the Netherlands’ losing New York City to
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Two Mixed Drinks That Make the Most of Genever
Adapted from the first American cocktail handbook, this Jerry Thomas drink is emblematic of the mid-19th-century, a time when pineapples were an exotic status symbol. In a cocktail shaker filled with ice cubes, add 1½ ounces Bols genever, ¾ ounce pin
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Pralines: How They Cook’Em in New Orleans
THIRTY-FIVE YEARS AGO, WHEN LORETTA Harrison opened Loretta’s Authentic Pralines in New Orleans’ old Jax Brewery building, she became the first African-American woman to own and operate a praline company in the Crescent City—a distinction she charact
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My Father’s French Onion Soup
My father gave me his letters from paris. Written with a fountain pen on onionskin stationery and folded in envelopes marked Par Avion, these formative accounts were addressed to my grandmother, and mailed during the year he studied art in Montparnas
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10 Things We Learned from the Season’s Best Books
It may seem that fat, flour, and some patient stirring are all that go into this building block of Louisiana cooking. But Justin Devillier, chef-owner of Magazine Street’s La Petit Grocery, gives no fewer than three methods in The New Orleans Kitchen
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25 Years of Saveur
IN EARLY NOVEMBER 1993, I was eking out a living as a freelance writer in Santa Monica when I received a call from Dorothy Kalins, who’d given me lots of work during her tenure editing Metropolitan Home. “I’ve found us a new magazine,” Dorothy announ
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The Time Of Our Lives
• Saveur is born! The magazine launches with an editorial staff of 11, a cover story on Oaxaca, and an editorial advisory board that includes Marion Cunningham, Sheila Lukins, and Alice Waters. • The Food Network celebrates its one-year anniversary.
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Front of House
It was two years ago that Christopher Hirsheimer first noticed a for sale sign on the vacant old train station in Milford, New Jersey. She immediately asked Melissa Hamilton, her business partner, to come see the place. “This building—this building—t
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Return To Oaxaca
When my father moved our family from Oaxaca to Los Angeles in 1994, he told us we would only be there for a year. I was 9 years old then, excited to learn a new language and enamored with the America I saw on TV shows like Saved by the Bell and Full
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Our All-time Best Recipes
If anyone should know if a recipe’s a keeper, it’s the person tasked with making sense of the original instructions—from the far reaches of Sri Lanka, say, or a famous chef who measures nothing. This might explain why many test kitchen staffers named
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Editor’s Note
SO WHERE WAS I 25 YEARS AGO? Right here. Not in the same physical location (Saveur’s got much swankier digs now), and certainly not in the same position atop the masthead. No, back when this magazine launched, I manned the reception desk outside edit
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Notes From The Test Kitchen
THE BERRIES OF THIS EVERGREEN LEND FLAVOR TO A LOT MORE THAN GIN AND GENEVER THE LAST TIME YOU EXPERIENCED THE PINEY, citrusy flavor of juniper was likely on the business end of a dry martini (see “Genever Is the Original Juniper Spirit,” p. 25). But
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What We Lose When We Lose the Amtrak Dining Car
ALMOST A DECADE AGO, I made two good decisions. The first was to move from New York to New Orleans. The second was to get there by train. I boarded the Crescent at Penn Station, carrying a small, soft-sided cooler that contained a loaf of bread, a st
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Salt Of The Earth
THE TOWN OF CASTRO MARIM IS TUCKED so far east into Portugal that you might hear echoes of Spanish from across the Guadiana River. Though not a famed salt mecca on the order of Guerande, France, or Maldon, England, people here have been transforming
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The Booza Boom
THE POUNDING OF BOOZA is a spectacle worth lining up for. Though the word means “ice cream” in Levantine Arabic, today it mostly refers to the Syrian version, a combination of milk with sahlab or salep (a starchy orchid-root flour) and mastic gum (a
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Conservas, Olives, and Salt Cod
“THIS IS NOT ENTRY-LEVEL FISH,” says a smiling Michael Benevides, standing in what has to be the United States’ largest purpose-built bacalhau chamber. It occupies one end of Portugalia Marketplace, the emporium Benevides opened with his father, Fern
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Cannoli, Grandpa’s Way
CANNOLI HAVE ALWAYS BEEN a fixture in Angie Rito’s family, thanks to her Sicilian grandfather Santo. At age 8, he worked at a tiny pastry shop in Riposto, on the island’s eastern coast. His first task was mixing cannoli dough. “Back then, the shop wa
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The Real Pad Thai
PAD THAI MIGHT JUST BE Thailand’s most famous export. The lightly sweet, peanut-topped noodle dish can be found in nearly every Thai restaurant around the world. And while it has been endlessly adapted (some might say bastardized) to appeal to the gl
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Mexico’s Party Food
EVERY TIME STEVE SANDO, THE founder of California-based heirloom bean company Rancho Gordo, heads down to Mexico, he encounters a new kind of pozole. “I remember one I tasted in Oaxaca where the cooks used some puréed hominy to thicken the broth and
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Stacked in Your Favor
PARATHAS ARE THE STUFF of my carb-filled dreams. The soft, layered Indian breads were a staple of my childhood in Dallas—most commonly stuffed with spiced, mashed potatoes and made by my Aunt Rachna. I remember sitting at her kitchen table, mesmerize
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Nothing Gold
IT APPEARED AT first that I had arrived in Macau by time machine. The hotel’s name, Morpheus, seemed picked to evoke either Greek mythology or The Matrix, but the exterior of the $1.1 billion building makes it clear the proprietors had chosen science
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Around The Fire
TURKISH LONDON STRETCHES through the boroughs of Hackney and Harringay, in the northeast of the city. There are Turkish barber shops and bakeries, lahmacun cafes and baklava stores, and an Ottoman-style mosque with a butcher’s shop beneath it. Greeng
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The Last Lebanese Steakhouse In Tulsa
“They didn’t tout it as Lebanese,” remembers Davidson, who is now the owner of Oklahoma Joe’s BBQ. “We didn’t even know where Lebanon was. But if you wanted to have a great rib-eye, that’s where you went.” Just one of these restaurants remains within
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The Middlemen
Sarah Maglass lives in a new red-brick house in Tanzania’s fertile Kilombero Valley, just south of Udzungwa National Park, nearly 40 miles from the nearest electricity or paved road. In her village, Mbingu, there is one dirt road and a tangled networ
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There and Back
Every meal at Milli begins with a complimentary chalupa. One of the cooks griddles a small, handmade corn tortilla atop a hot comal until it’s bronzed on both sides, then layers it with smoky red salsa and homemade queso fresco. It’s a humble gift—an
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At The BAYOU’S EDGE
AT THE END OF THE LAND IN SOUTHERN LOUISIANA, water sloshes at the sides of the road, creeping into parking lots and backyards and beneath houses on stilts. Wetlands and fishing docks splay out into the Gulf of Mexico, narrowing the divide between so
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Food Moves Us Closer
WE CAN NEVER LEARN ENOUGH about one another’s cultures. Although there is beauty in our individuality as nations, regions, and families, making an effort to know more about each other is the ultimate path toward kinship and unity. What we’ve already
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