~

~~, l1 Jonuor-, 'JOI~

<:.

~elombon9 A-ir
~~r ~~\le MtChQn\C~ "-\. l'lO'l
~"" " " l ef't\f'\~Od.\ @9N'G\\\ · COl't\)
. \(Q~\ , ~ .0

.. ~\!.tQrt, ·. M-\or Mahdi ~ . Swauona ( attar . ttaf'\tslberia @ 9moll · C.Of\'\)

"TOP\c& ·.

• \~,oQ1acno1'\ ~o NQ \le l't\eCNl!\\C.S

• ""C\"t
"-lo,e, c.~ro~r\t~ct
• Oenvo~"Or\ O(
,uneor
. IIU01er wotea
• Ena.,
~ "~,,~ ~er wove Ptol)e.rt\2~
• ,.tQ
l'\t{OrMQKot\ 04 IJJO\er tNOvec:..
• ~ Qve ~rce.i

- ReQu ireci lb~booKl

~ • ~ ·, IL~. and Dq\tlJ""Ple, R-A. , "Woter Wave Mecnan,c~ ~or En9,neer, al'\d ~Q.n~ti ''
wor\Q Sc.let\~c , ,gg, .
-
~
.. Shore Prottc.h°" t.\Q"'°'." Coruto.l t"9,neerl"' ~searen C.enter, lJSA Arm~ COfpt O-\ &g,rEQr,

-
c:.
➔
l9S4
• us ~'"'~
Mltlta
Col~ ~ ~911'\ttr s.' g()()€, . EM i.110 -ll - IIO()
~ ~ -
COOttol ~1"91neer1"' NQf'\l.lQ.I

\I\J\(.. 1 \~tOO'ACt\0" . - ~\ISIOl\ Par. 0\ W'.IQ\er INO.\le

- 1ype ot ~ve
- ~ovt ,h-eor\e.i ' I I I , ,

WK :i \.\near ~ave 1neor~ , - P1"09teiS1ve wave c.Quot\oo -=. \V\ Q:\ \Qb -:_
- ~t0rte11f\., I J ( \ I '

- o,~9e.~on ~e,~t\oo
- oceo" wave etos~, f(ca v,o"
- St-.auow
"1 ~ 3 (Q\C\.l\6K0"'

,.,. ..,¥- \\ e"l1nttrt"-~ No~e ~-

'NV. 5 CA\C - o~ c"9tneer1~ wove
~
w\c.~
w¥- l wove ~~
',,.,\:. ~ VTS
la.J~9 •~a"Hoc h\0\-\0" -\o tl'\A\\ow ~er l

VV¥- l0 1fO~fO( ~~" -\0 ~M\\.Ow wcrter J

r-1 "- \I \MtOdOC\'\0 f'\ wo"e ~ce
W"- n lntroC\uchO" ro"oo"" "'-'O"tl
'N y. 'Qi , r<'t od.u c t'\O n '°"9 IIJOvtl
wl'- N oe.nvoNon ~ un,ec wow Theor~
\Ill\'- \ S I l'\~fO~UC~ OC'\ t O Non · \lf\\er WQv e.
~'t(.\~ VA~

0~0n JG ·. At t \~""''"' QO •to

• Q\,I\\ 10•1.
• Mld1erf\'\ t:,com ~-,.
· ~,na, exam 3c;•,.
• ,b
I,
 R,t:\/ \ \:.N , ~ L
IJ\O M t:C. \1P.N \Ct.
l . Otft\el\"o" Q"d Uf\lH s . .., -~ o"d e.u1e, eauo~o"
.) . e,Ot,;c Qh~~C.QI Law~ 0~ "'-'-'Id
~ · ~cc.~,erohon
14. ~ce~su, ~
~ - ~<lroS\-Okc Fo t ce.1
G . I <1eo.1 "'-u I Cl
<lf\d ~\ ~lu.ld
1. t->eU>\Of\\Qf\ ~\UIQ

INTH-ODV CT[ON
➔ ~"e '? 1
\ t I f ,

➔ ' OCc~N w~vc. --

Erier9~ Wh\Ch ?'O?Q9~e c 71 \ f\1echon\Cal ➔ mect1um ,, \ \ \ \. ...

t\eCtl'OfYla9~t'iC ➔ ~ do l'\01 reqv i rect mectiul'Y'

·;'1{ -« ~~cte ~ . but tt\e el\0'~ pr~~e.i

~Ote.r Na:ve Ct-arac.1eru:t"-1c.

L r
~~
? ~-- - ')C '

L =- woueU~9"'~
~9"'
c. = wave Ptopa~ne>n sreect
r
i: ..,ave pef1C)d : wave c:e.ter1~ r
... = C = '-IT
.------------,I- r
wav~ ~rKCl~ -+f"O)e.C:IC>r!:, ,s.
r;
~ . al\d ouval near r
t-ne beo.cn.

\ I
I
I
r
'Q_wave ➔ decomposed 1"10 s.1rnp1er \
-
.,.
l - ~l'ef!IO!N
W QV e
~ves (di((. {tequencu
~
and-n- I'~'
htlgt\1) ➔ ~OJe l?) -t tol'S\ o r m
r
f
\VP~ C>i. N:Jter Nave
~ea on ,
0 . ~ea ttale , ~uior ~ave
\ ~dorn lfJQue r
b. ~iEd
~~ :;:,to.Ko"o' o.ttto.cn0f\a 0( ear~ , moon, Sl.lf\ ltta.ei) r
' \ E,u"'quo.~e t tond,Ud.e, vo,co",c et~\1on, Me\eor
O~tere.r<.e in wa1er <1E!C\V\ty r
C. . ~er' ec . rt\QS~ hor-S~Or\
r
Ei (hQl)1er 1. ➔ Book 1n
F
 R~b1.4, J4 .lonvor, ~l'o

~~er_1mn~ r rf\ah°'
-- -
"~e do~ai C'\ ➔ ~fequt"Qt domain
~ don· tt)UffllOt'\ Su~u NlffY\Of\lk
·ap ~9ci '1e.ttoa 1k. dop0, "'"tJataic.an sebo0al Pef')JfY'IQhan
II0"9 ~k\U!f\{i~ QOolal'\ ,, \n.)(u(~f\ \l (~1,d 1rn° n 1c.d
·) v.Javt.1
·> 'T\ae.s
... Qf'Qll\1()t\()f\A\ ·~f0.C1'0t' (-a r \ h · M "\)('\ - ,'.,,,J. f\

'Q:: ~ r , ~ e.te'-'0"1.0f\
~ 'TidQ\ Cbtum .
·) ~'t"qva~e, ~ , , lMdt\\Cl~, vo\COnlc erupnon , f'\"\etg)-

4> CQu,ed ,5,....,1'-.'ll"'r\i

·> t>~erenc.t ii\ ~er c.eM\ty

~ OCCutl ; ~.e"!"\Q\ v-).1\J Ei,.S,

~ b~ c14te.rQJ\C£. 04 o.>Q'\er ~e~ture .

•> 'lrQ"~laio,~ -> w ~te.< M.'.1.t;, tra".\~ .

,ra~""'l"I!' 0( Naves En1e{\~ Snanow WG'\er

_,. 9eJ 0"'bof\9 dlbVOlt di \aUtQt'\ tepa.c ~ 11\Cl~lC'\ kf\99,

Awa, : water parnc1e -\t'O)Wof~ C)

~otuk 1<e ShOre. ➔ 1AJ01er IAXlve ~eels bottom , 1.tJo,er ~rKc1e -tro)ect0ry 0
· ~ - wQ~e, pr~ation 5'>Eect de()en.d~ on w~er ae~" c ~ aePth
3 · t>i«:rac~

• 'i · ~eC"'<>f\
➔ ~wcio.pa.t t "eJSi l:lan0 atpo.l\~l\<.an ~ oc.cur l'f\ore waves .
e s - "'°ve bce.a""l"9

-- \Na1er Nave "Theor~

\ . lln1e,.r INO\le tt\ec>(\e~
~ _ NOf\ - un·1Q.f !Ulve. t\o\eot,e!i.
(Mr!I I Sino\\ OM~\'\1.tOe.)
l5.to.-.es, Cno,cto\ , e-c.)

., ~hiCh --.JOve ~~ '.

.:, ooo t>Orome,e, ( ~ , ~) ~on9 rnel"lef'\u~an le.bh ba\K R\~"'"atto.f\ ~ .

~~ , '3 1 Jc."uor, ,01<o

€9 . "NOve ~rnper ne~ '
H, T. t , L
No,er 1tJOve pc::,rotrieie1 l
- 01e.vght - Ce.ter~t-y lPropagohOI'\ \:.l)eed) - 1>re <:.sure ~e,ct
• - v-J~ec pornc.le veiooty
- °Na\l>f sur \ ace ~\Qvo"'o"
- No\0
-
pan,clP ·HQ)ec.ioc~
€J\Pf9\J .

i.D"<j ete~H•d wave : '-::\ ·_. ➔ Mc,noChfOMQhC. Hrel<uel"lti .

20 f-r ~ i<orena cretH''JO diM99op po")cn~ , lct ij'} dianol, ~is
J -D 0 ·1 0 .

J ~. ' 'I f L, f < '\ \

i:brtil<el o,r beraQraK d i H?N"tnnt uo. tetnn

j
-.J t- = . . .,. · ) trrotational
( J 1 a e,et'\Cla t\Clok ber01o~i
 '1 '" co ~p,t>~C,bl('
\:'01 "'- Cl e \/~\()Ci\ \j

L4 ~ .t \I :'\
J , • c r , ,.,
'-"' ~ l\){\\ e1 P<li-Kc1e v~,oct l·~ WOI ~ · • - v "I'

,r ro~1,o"OI 0"(1 ln~'P<~'tlble .

:V
v
lr- t '"_iJ don \_v u :-_9j
d.1 dQPQI

C>Oaodor~ vo1ue
~u"dQt
PtObleM ➔
~ c:cna1 hOC\ : K ~s ~c. , DrSe.c , B~c , L eic.
c:1.liQlelOlKOn dgn . bouncl.ary condlhOn . r
.-::. t=-s ~c. 4 wo.,e, \>O.{ \"\c1e_ oJ PelmuKaetn i ~ tcw J.1 1)e.r ""l..l ~ CH \

O~S.~C.. ~
•
~~C.. ➔
teko,f\.OC\

OQson,~o
CU ~e< mv\\OOn
~otl lon1a1 ,
uual Q\-\

eta" 10~1~arH,~C\
'\ €.I<. . A\!Y'lol...{'J
\m~, meabQ.I .
(. \>!:J O U)
r
l...~C. ~
• Te_, ·,aa, Pel"\'::'.)UIOl"\90'(\ lKOlo o..(()O,cn~ Sehop L tern~Q'"'1°' SOMO)
r
SMALL A~Pl.lTUDE 'NA"'t "'Tl-\t0'2."t'
~f~ i IA"1er ~ r wove theor~
a
-::: Q cos ( l<X - wt)
1'"\, -:.
'I\ = -q
~ ~

= -Hb
l;i
r
r
r
r
- 0 1!. PeA' ~o" R €..l.a.KOn , hubuf\9ar- , cten9a" L)
(
~K aen~an : i11
\ w~ : ~an\'\ l\<-\"-) '. V\J ... - d- r ~ • ':, u Q 4\-) \<. ::. 11\ I. 1.,\ 1"\'j'ICQ 9e.. . )
T L
L-i
tOl'\h ll<h)
r
T~

+onh lk.h)
r
• L =
r
'\Ot'\h \.,\<n)

r
- V\Jo~er WO\IQ 001, l~cor.o"

Kh~
'T'
,c ~OU -
~

L
<
..... -lO
\
r
I
Q\Ou ~ ),,
t<h ~ T\ l.-- J

l
OIOf'\0,0r'\yO
J. U I'\
~
ff'Ql'\Q

Oe\le> ~w, W0Vt'1 I<- \-\ + Tl n I <I u h I

L
•
I,
\
l ,. I f ll'"\ '°'"' ~ 1

~ f w~ ~-- ~ ~ }
'"
~
L :. lo
dlMa!'\a ,

\-\f\t
9 \\N
4 \.o

<
Lo
Qol alol"\

S
-:ln ,-
l•\"I·•"
;i _
I

r .;. ,,')
l \ '":,(,
\ l l 'l• l •\ l l , 1f\,

~ .l)T
T'l I\\\
T) \ rt\ )

( ~ \)
I ' , ~11 j f I I I

~=
,4,

g-1'\ ' TJ "' \ I • '>~ l ( IV'\

~ /
'--...______
-.J ll l S. \' \; \?. \ \<) {'I I \ )\ ' , \ ' \
.. '-' - '
·J \

~ L1> b e l . lnu, C'l(llom '"' ~ ruf)O\< O.f"' .

• ~ha\\ow wa~e, YJave1 \<.h ~ ~ Q\OU h/L • ( S-o ➔ •
.;, \ "'11: a\c:.l."" l
~~ j,
&

--
,,-- C'!l=Bh or c= N ON 0 1' ,\ 'l! Q \ \ J L

1.-1> ful'\9~i U!.lef\1~f'~O t\oa\'. b e,hub . dg" p~1odC4 .

t-iOw to Qe\ efMlr"'1€ L ~or \<n()u.) I" , a l"\d n :

1 . 11€/'Q t:-01"'1
.., ex . nev..rtoC\ - rophSOC\ Me~ "'od
~ :J · ~1'1\ 10b\(>

•- 3 . 0 9" \:>
4 . C.£"'1

S. . Ec.kefe.'\
0 • ee,
'=>raph
t:'OfM\.tlQ

'-'~S')
u""'"0 S.\t~
or &,()M

➔ "'uo, awa1
o<. DeJwore
utK

wave
,-+erat,
ea1cu1011or .
tA.>'l = 91< J;o,..r- t wJV\ l

r.► V\10:lnesdO\J . -, f€bn.or9 ~l~ .

,. -,~= ,Dr
,.
How to t>0erm·1nQ. L know" i and ~

o w 'l. ~ 9~ 10n h (Kh)

w1
L 9\<. \'\
h .
:. tQI"\"' l\<-~)

untu~ m~doDOt s:ouH.i '"-h KltO OQA:)t rr.Q.rlcori p€root0f"'90" aMora

~ t l"") -=- tonh l \<.h)

re ~ - '(Ou CAN ' i bC'

f ("n)
,-.
ond .
-- w2.h
~h) for
111E,~O\..Ui10N
wi.,.
- o · = 1 .
RH'., 1-\l' AW AY ➔ 11V\ P \...\(Xi 'c QIJ P.T1C,N

r,, ~o ...,_,eton oo SOf'f' e

r-. ~. 1. . lteroh01"'1

S:ama
i-1 . CE.M
-,

SOf'i"O

FO~N\J\..A
i;:,ue~S 11"19

8g otoi
l'lJfnbe,r -\-1-\Q-t ~ over OnQ O\Jef a901r.

f.
r• 0 ~, ~
_ =-[':l-+ \.l+O,bC.,11~11' 0,4{,1.1.y-i.-+ O.O~b4~\.\ .. O.D~-,S~1_.) J
9h
w1-1ere. ,
ASS19 f\ {Y\QM 0~
1\"'
~· 'l
~
'• 5. cc.1-<ere \
1 . wri \ ~ MOH O'o p\0,-.J l"O:M '\O{

• w1 = ~ \< j 1o"' n l'; h I

r4
'~ _.....
 e_x Q l"'r\p l e PrOb l em
I , b tv e n A IJVQ ve W,\ r, mo deP t r- =- ~m
d O ?.CO ,.....
T ~o S , Shorewa rd S.IO{>II'\ <:; <; h ~ I\ 0 d e.1> \ t-. 0
~
t=- \n ct C a"d L a, ;;)QQ m <10n ~m , WQ v~,ypQ ')_ r
l,

C!, t c\ccer 1 l"n l2\-r, Qd . ,

IA) 'l.
81<. j tOI'\ h ~ w; I,) l W ~ I_
me l'('IO~ul'- 1'<-0 I" 0 1'\ ~ \cQ r
\ n1noo r ,
91. T\ 1 di Qu.>OI
L - -
(.Vl / i an h \ ~ h) r
L
9 , ~\
c~) . .
::i.n
j 1 On 'r\ ( ~ ) • . 200
~ . ~\
J r
',1}' &~~
L ~
•¼
.(' "" · l ct, 1< e<101omon ➔ (.,I S, ~ Ml~
l 0. eeP '-'.)O\ e_r UJ() \J Q )
~
L "-4, I rn l d1 1-< Q CIO I OIY\O n 3"") ~ C =- t:,, 4-1 m I S,

,_,.,
@) C.EM

:inn . ~n lOO
j-c - ➔ ~ :. ~
lo ' ~ - 100
t:::--
~ e . osC:>
-C
2
9'- l e ,o':h ~ \._11-0,~c,n~ -t o,~Gt;?.:i.~ -i. ~ o,CJ'o'=,1,-1 ~4 ... o .~1s'j '> f ' } - '
C
i...
\ S,<o l'Y'll5 _

IS , b . 10
,-
L ISol'Y'I l 1<.e~alalV\on l.OC> m)
o, 1:;i. 1
r-"
~ =-
C. '.l. = 9h l t o . 111 " l l to , e,1:.11. . 0 , 121 .. o . ~~n . 0 . 11. 1-.. .. c., ,o<c,b~ o , ,·l\ 4 1- o , Ot>l'- . o , 11.1 S )
- 1 1 -I
J r
c- = s , 31 ""•~
L =- 53 , 1 m (
@ Tobe,\ .
- COn "IL 0 ➔ u\"IOt l<-IO~ i ~1<a r 1 ➔ ~a1ce O S~UIY\h 00 do!'\ per.o Q1<.a t- on ~

• d• '2.00 m

\.\ '.2.00 r
-Lo ::. - -
'13~
::: 1,1q,1 ➔ cte.ep water IAXlV€

:, L =- Lo r
L::. I¼
(
• d1 2>IY"I
~
3 1Merm{2 ct. 'le:¼ ·
Lo
::. --"-
I¼
::. o , O'.) ·➔
r
Lo"'br11<, do-ri 9ro.\-;K . d.1C10~1- L ('..
0 , 34 ➔ L-=- 0,'~4 . \~~
Lo
L:. S~ . 04 I'(') ,-
(S;} $PN\ 'tOb l~
1-\l1..o "' l '- r
0 ,11 900 o , OSbll 0
::. CJ ,OS~U I
0 , 0 1'1 1 o, O} Co4 I ➔ !M er \) O IO C, i ➔ I.- I"'
o cn o c.i o,'?1b?, \... c, '?:., I 12> l'V\ · ( Pd 1-<.edo\oma n 3ff' )
,--

,-

~
 tN~INt:E_\llN~ IN~v'= ()A~,1C.\..\=

Ptogr\'HI\Je_ \Nave_ (loeombor-~ ~ Qf-)010\",)

~ ~~..'._ - ~~<._t! _ ~'S.fl<:' Ct'°".:'~"!

\ ~ ~ ~ ( O~ l~11. -W\:.) \ b~c,~ra\s. dr \'-Ir, \<e\<Ql\qf'\

0
Ve.!oc,1-:, Po,enhOI
- -~ ~ - :.~\}~ - : - '\A ~ _3./; - ~~

q>c-\:!~ c.~n K.(1--. +'l) ;) orC11-\ v e1~1<: 0 1 l)OSIN l<e o u .

- ~'"' l \(."' - W\ )
:I W COS h \<h

C.OS.n I<(\-\+~)
¢ - '1. C, ~!"'I lk l'- -w\.)
~ Sll"I" I<\-\

• Q:)r1-1,c_1e_ \le.lOc.it~ C.O'YlpOl'\et"H

- ---- -- - -- -·
- 0 <b LI "O'n 1<(1-1+1)
1..1 , ~ W -'--~---- (OS l \< ~ -wt)
o)I. d 8-inh l.<..n

u :.
-
0 k"
;;iw
<DSh K

COS,n K\rl
l\-'> ""T'l,)
lOS l\<i< - wl ) l
tt ~ ~""' \< l \-\ +~)
i/\J ~ --W <.<n l1<x -wl) \
~ r>I'\"' 1-<I--\

• l.OC.o I Pa.r hC. 1e Ac.c elero t-.or- Ccmponel'\"\

au :;
~
-6 w~
C.C.,SI-- ~ (h+~)
<is)!" l '\(..X - W-\.)
c-t. &'In 1--. ~h
ow \1
- -=.. - -
~
w1. ~""' \<:.(h+=t)
(_OS, (\<.X -Wl)
;}.l Sin h ~h

➔ u L 1<ec~oo+o"") be.r9or.+v "9 podo wo'IC'\"V , cto"' H?mpot parh\cel, 'cat\< hol"l"i on-\ 01
a +o.u ver hi... 01

,
.. l=brt"'lc.1e D1so1oterner1+
---- - ----- -
➔ u:n,Q.r , mol<.O teH'\lnJP , dCIQM i Pe.nod a K€mbo1, ke_ +€Mt)a+ ~Of°'(} ~O~Q

NO\€r pQrh~\e\:
{ - Meo" <>~1hon l~. ,1.,1
- In S'On10 f'\eou ~ !;)O'. I I", Or\ ( X, + ~ i 7; + t)
tE ..,, ·➔ INQ'\l;!f PQl r,(.\€_

--~ j ~- '°"\ "' '"~e,~~, I..,,

l)(., l,)

\.(l"~V K f)\€'f1 00PO\ pOC,1 ~ 1 , ' "'e<:)tO\l<Ol"'\ -..t

o,dO0O~ f •
s
♦ l'X:-€i;:> wo,e < wa \le .

~
H elC.l ,
A ·- 9

~ Po
0
G
()
 ~ <::t1 011oui wa,e c "'-.lav e ~,~,
A ~ -~ ():)Sh \.._ ( h I t ')
r
;l_

Y> buicC\1"
~ f"'?J \; , 0 1 ke c~ p0 , O f\ , n,0 1<\ I" aa ~o , C:o m a l -l e ta p l r
e:i
~ hi_" 9 S1 0 1 1e: ecto 1a l'f'o n , ctr d ol0IY1 e, ::. 0 ~ r
~
r
__. 11'\ le r""E'O le \e d~~h wave}

A:

I?) -:::
lj__
;l

H
C.o~"'
b,f'lh
l<. (h ·+:t. '')

l<:l h,~ , )
I ¥in h t\<-~ e ~ c:=:,
r
(""
~ G=>
!'.:l " h kh
(""
QOb\.j . 14 \:ebrvar , ~I'(}

Progre~~\ ve Wave r-
(-...

➔ Pres~u re. r1 el q
lo Clar, ,.~Of'\Qr, OK.lbo.t 9QlOIY'lbQl\ 9 dopat ct1Ketoh\J1 90,'::jQ 'dOn<j d inoti\kal" .
r
l'.£tSO.l'Y\OQ f"\
p
d.Ot , bemou \I ;
c)<j, r
-p -::: - ~~ ... -iH .
~------- - r
i~--------...__
-

-: : - € 91 -+ ~ . ~ lj_ .\ ©Sn k ( h➔ ~ )
p V C.oS ( kx: - wt:.) \.
C.OSh \<h
r
"'-Ol<.0 ~ kplT-)
D= - eg i e
9 I'\, k1> ti) • ➔ kp ll) Preo~Sllt~ cespon~e ,o.cter " r
~ a,o<tah~ A<•bo• '"""""' ·
I< p l i )
COS h k ( r, ~ 1 ) / l'\'\11"\lrt\\.l.Y'(\ Q~ :Z: ::. -1, , I<~ ~
r·
~ \<.p l ~)
CO<;\-\ l<h \ mo.x, rnu"" ~ ~ , o \<9 l~) :: I r
,,, \.tl'l 1ui< o < :e< l"l, ...
10 t'
V
P n ,) :: e9 l "1., - ! ,)
.r -

= r

,,.--

O, nO rn 1 k ~ ,

• i e l,t () f"\Of\ (:I \( t b Oi C, 0 011'1 \:>01"0 ciQ()O., dl~UnOl<OY) untuK rnenqUk\.H e..teva1, ""Uk(A 01r 11v . , ,---

r
r
r
 j
... ., '1
~
~ t \j) ~
4' ,\ \ \ -. • • ~ ~ ~,, ~
...,'
~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~ ~

p
J:)
'
-.,j
✓ V ' v if'
-4
D c:: "'
8
cr
C
--p
-I -n :5 11
,, 11 a' ,, "10 ~
ft)
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