JURUSAN TEKNIK SIPIL

FAKULTAS TEKNIK - UNIVERSITAS MATARAM

TEKNIK PANTAI
JTS. 1606

MORFOLOGI
DAERAH PANTAI
Pemodelan Perubahan
Garis Pantai

BAB V 1
Pertemuan ke – 10 & 11
No. Pokok Bahasan Sub Pokok Bahasan Estimasi Minggu
No. Pokok Bahasan Sub Pokok Bahasan Waktu
Estimasi Ke -
Minggu
1 2 3 4
Waktu 5-
Ke
1.
1 Pengertian Teknik
2 Pantai  Definisi daerah pantai3 2 x450 1
5
1. Pengertian Teknik Pantai  Jenis-jenis Pantai
Definisi daerah pantai 2 x 50 1
 Ilmu Teknik Pantai
Jenis-jenis Pantai
 Keadaan pantai
Ilmu Teknik di Indonesia
Pantai
2. Teori Gelombang Laut  Teori Gelombang
Keadaan pantai diLinier
Indonesia
4 x 50 2, 3
 Karakteristik gelombang
2. Teori Gelombang Laut  Teori Gelombang Linier 4 x 50 2, 3
3. Perubahan / Deformasi  Shoaling 4 x 50 4, 5
 Karakteristik gelombang
Gelombang Laut  Refraksi
3. Perubahan / Deformasi  Shoaling 4 x 50 4, 5
Gelombang Laut  Difraksi
 Refraksi
 Refleksi
 Difraksi
 Breaking
 Refleksi
4. Ststistik dan Peramalan  Gelombang representatif 4 x 50 6, 7
Gelombang Laut  Breaking
Peramalan Gelombang
4.
5. Ststistik dan Peramalan
Proses Morfologi Daerah  Gelombang
Arus representatif
di pantai
44 xx 50
50 6, 11
10, 7
Gelombang
Pantai Laut UJIAN TENGAH
 Peramalan SEMESTER (8, 9)
Gelombang
Angkutan sedimen di pantai
5. Proses Morfologi Daerah  Arus di pantai
Perubahan garis pantai 4 x 50 10, 11
6. Pantai
Perencanaan Struktur  Angkutan
Perencanaansedimen
tangguldi pantai
pantai (revetment) 6 x 50 12,13,14
Pelindung Pantai  Perubahan garis pantai
Perencanaan krib (groin dan jetty)
6. Perencanaan Struktur  Perencanaan
Perencanaan tanggul
pengurukanpantai (revetment)
pantai (beach 6 x 50 12,13,14
Pelindung Pantai  Perencanaan
nourishment) krib (groin dan jetty)
7. Manajemen Pemanfaatan  Perencanaan pengurukandaerah
Jenis-jenis pemanfaatan pantaipantai
(beach 4 x 50 15, 16
Daerah Pantai  nourishment)
Penilaian kepentingan pemanfaatan
7. Manajemen Pemanfaatan  Jenis-jenis pemanfaatan
Zonasi pemanfaatan daerah
daerah pantai
pantai 4 x 50 15, 16
Daerah Pantai  Penilaian kepentingan pemanfaatan
 Zonasi pemanfaatan daerah pantai 2
UJIAN AKHIR SEMESTER (17, 18)
ONE-DIMENSIONAL MODELING
OF SHORELINE CHANGE

Chapter 14 of Introduction to Coastal

Engineering and Management
(J. William Kamphuis, 2000)

3
EROSI & SEDIMENTASI
Q angin Q erosi dune, Q sungai

garis pantai
ΔV
QL masuk QL keluar

Q offshore

 Q masuk   Q keluar  V
ΔV positif  sedimentasi  garis pantai maju
ΔV negatif  erosi garis pantai mundur
ΔV = 0  stabil garis pantai tetap
1-D Shoreline Change Model
The conservation of sand mass
in the longshore direction

dx 1  Q 
   q 
dt d d  d c  dy 
• The constant shape of beach profile
slides along a horizontal base located
dx 1  dQ  at closure depth (dc)
   q
dt (d d  d c )  dy 
• The accretion (dQ/dy < 0) cause the
profile moves seaward and vice versa.
• Since the profile is same, all contour
move the same distance and one
contour line can represent the
complete beach movement
• The dominant cause of shoreline
change in the model is spatial
change in the longshore sand 5
transport rate along the coast.
1-D Shoreline Change Model

dx 1  Q 
   q 
dt d d  d c  dy 

dd = berm height
dc = closure depth
Q = long-shore transport rate
q = cross-shore transport rate

6
1-D Shoreline Change Model

y 1  Q 
   q  0
t (d B  dC )  x 

7
 Closure Depth
Definisi:
• Batas perubahan efektif
profil pantai dalam jangka
panjang.
• Posisi dimana angkutan
sedimen karena gelombang
sangat kecil sehingga tidak
dapat merubah
kedalamannya.

hc = closure depth
Hallermeier (1978, 1981): H = annual mean Hs
Q = long-shore transport rate
H 2

hc  2.28 H e  68.5  e
2
 or hc  2 H  11 H q = cross-shore transport rate

 gT
e 
8
Berm Height

9
Longshore Sediment Transport Rate

CERC (1984) :

Q  330 H sb5/2 sin 2 b (m3 / hr )

Kamphuis (1991) :

Q  7.3 H sb4 Top1.5 mb0.75 D 0.25 sin 0.6 2 b (m3 / hr )

Hsb = breaking wave height

Top = wave period
mb = beach slope
D = sediment size
αb = breaking wave angle

10
 Analytical Solution
x

Q  CQ sin 2 e αb

Respect to shoreline normal :

dx
Q  CQ sin 2( b  )
dy γ

Assume αe small so : sin 2αe ≈ 2αe

dx
Q  2CQ ( b  )
dy y

dQ 2 x
 2CQ 2 • The equation is simplified
dy y
for simple boundary
condition
dx 1 dQ dx d 2x
 D 2 • The solutions give quick
dt (d d  d c ) dy dt dy impression about shoreline
change
The diffusion equation
• The shoreline is assumed
where :
initially straight, same wave
2CQ
D condition alongshore
(d d  d c ) 11
 Analytical Solution
Jetty structure
K= 0.77 ρ= 1
Hb = 1.75 ρs = 2.65
Db = 1.73 g= 9.81
Dc = 8 n= 0.4
Cg = 4.119624 c= 0.564333
αb = 0.53
ε= 0.153324
t= 2419200

4 Dt
x tan  b e  u  erfc (u ) 
 u2 Analytical Solution of Shoreline Change

   7

where : 5

x (m)
y
u
3

2
4Dt 1

erfc (u ) 1  erf (u )
0 200 400 600 800 1000 1200 1400 1600 1800 2000
y (m)

t=0 1 day 1 week 1 month

12
 ANALYTIC SOLUTION
Jetty structure Rectangular beach fill

13
 Numerical Solution

• The shoreline is discretized into a series of sections of finite length

• Each section is subjected different αb for the same incident wave
• Calculation of Q takes places at the end of section and calculation of x is at
middle of section
• The computation use finite difference method and is stepped forward in time using
increment of Δt
• Each time step can use different wave condition on new shoreline configuration

14
 Computation Scheme

1. Initial shoreline is defined at the initial time t 1

2. Wave transformation for the wave condition at t1 is computed for the
initial shoreline
3. The longshore transport and erosion or accretion due to its variation
alongshore is calculated over a time ∆t
4. The shoreline change (dx/dt) is resulted and produce a new shoreline at
(t1+ ∆t)
5. The process is repeated for the next wave condition on the new
shoreline until final time N ∆t
15
 Explicit Scheme
dx 1  dQ  xi*  xi 1  Q  Qi 
  q    i 1  q0 
dt ( d d  d c )  dy 

t d p  y 
t
xi*  xi    Qi 1  Qi  y q0 
• Every new value at a new time
d p y
(*) is calculated explicitly from
xi*  xi  AQi 1  AQi  A y q0
known value
• First the xi* value is calculated
then the Qi* is calculated based xi*  AQi  AQi 1  Si
on xi* for the next time step
• The explicit scheme easily where :
becomes unstable (the error d p  dd  dc
grows to infinity) if ∆t become
bigger. The stability condition is: t
A
d p y
 Q t  1
 2
 Si  xi  A y q0

 pd ( y )  2
*  at a newtime (t  t )
16
 Implicit Scheme
dx 1  dQ  xi*  xi 1  Qi*1  Qi*
 

 q0 
  q
dt ( d d  d c )  dy 

t d p  y 
t
xi*  xi   Qi*1  Qi*  y q0 
d p y
• Every new value at a new time
(*) is calculated simultaneously
xi*  xi  AQi*1  AQi*  A y q0
from known value
• Calculation based on matrix
algebra  AQi*  xi*  AQi*1  Si ….1
• After the xi* and Qi* value is
calculated, they become the where :
known value for the next time d p  dd  dc
step
t
A
d p y

Si  xi  A y q0

*  at a newtime (t  t )
17
 Implicit Scheme
Kamphuis (1991) :
Q  7.3 H sb4 Top1.5 mb0.75 D 0.25 sin 0.6 2 e sin 2 e  sin 2( b   s )
 dx 
 sin 2 b cos 2 s  2 cos 2 b cos  s  
Q i  (c3 )i sin 0.6 2 e  ds 

(c ) sin 2 e sin 2 e  (sin 2 b cos 2 s )

Q i  3 i 0.4  (c4 )i sin 2 e
(sin 2 e )   ( xi*  xi*1 (1   )( xi  xi 1 
2(cos 2 b )(cos  s )   
 ds ds 

  ( xi*  xi*1 (1   )( xi  xi 1 
Q  (c4 )i sin 2 e  (c4 )i (sin 2b cos 2 s )  2(cos 2b )(cos  s ) 
*
i  
 ds ds 
Qi*  Ri  Bi xi*  Bi xi*1

where :

 Bi xi*1  Qi*  Bi xi*  Ri ….2 d s  d x2  d y2

(c4 )i
Bi  cos 2 b cos  s
ds
Ri  (c4 )i (sin 2 b cos 2 s  cos 2 b sin 2 s )
18
 Implicit Scheme

• Equation 1 and 2 can be combine to become a tri-diagonal matrix

and can be solved by the Double Sweep Method (Cholesky Method)
• The R1 and RN+1 are the boundary condition

19
 Example

The model should be calibrated to

get reasonable coefficient

20
Example

The calculation can be performed for many

contour seaward by considering crosshore
transport and the distribution of longshore
transport in crossshore direction. 21
y 1  Q 
EXAMPLE
   q  0
t (d B  dC )  x 

sand cliff
22
 TUGAS 6
y 1  Q 
   q  0 Q  330 H sb5/2 sin 2 b (m3 / hr )
t (d B  dC )  x 

Hb = 1.5 m
αb = 300

500 m

100 m
Kd = 0.6
100 m

500 m 500 m
THANK YOU
24