Batu bata

Pasir
Semen
Keramik
Kaca
Kayu
Cat
Batu kali
Kusen
Kabel listrik
Besi beton
Triplek
Tangki air
Asbes
Atap

Alat-alat bangunan dan fungsi

1. Gergaji

Ada beberapa macam gergaji diantaranya :

a) Gergaji besi
Funginya adalah untuk memotong besi

b) Gergaji Kayu
Fungsinya untuk memotong kayu
2. Palu

Ada beberapa macam palu diantaranya :

a) PALU KARET
Fungsi:
Berfungsi untuk memukul benda dari bahan
lunak atau keras tanpa merusak komponen yang
dipukul.
b) PALU PLASTIK
Fungsi:
Berfungsi untuk memukul benda dari bahan
lunak atau keras tanpa merusak komponen yang
dipukul

c) PALU TEMBAGA
Fungsi :
Berfungsi untuk memukul benda dari bahan
logam yang keras tanpa merusak komponen
yang dipukul
d) PALU BESI
Fungsi :
Berfungsi untuk memukul benda dari bahan
logam yang keras dibantu dengan alat perantara

3. Molen Beton

4. Skrop

5. Sendok Semen

6. Meteran

7. Gerinda

1. mencari lokasi
Pilih tempat yang diinginkan untuk rumah Anda. Ada banyak faktor untuk
dipertimbangkan misalkan mengenai
o iklim
o tanah stabilitas
o ketersediaan utilitas
o infrastruktur masyarakat
2. merancang rumah Anda
Desain rumah Anda sendiri, atau berkonsultasi
dengan seorang arsitek. Arsitek dan insinyur yang telah
memiliki pengalaman dalam merancang rumah-rumah.
3. mendapatkan izin
mendapatkan izin konstruksi yang tepat. Izin bangunan adalah persyaratan d
asar. Untuk mendapatkan ini, Anda akan perlu untuk menyediakan

rinci diagram arsitektur, teknik spesifikasi beban, dan bahan lain untuk negar
a Anda
Department of Housing.[7]
4. melanggar tanah
Jenis dan desain dari pondasi tergantung pada ukuran rumah.
Direkomendasikan dan terkuat jenis pondasi blok beton.
gali ke kedalaman yang diinginkan
Tuangkan pondasi beton hal ini digunakan untuk mendistribusikan berat
merata dan harus agak lebih
luas daripada dinding pondasi, membentuk perimeter
rumah.
ketebalan pondasi ditentukan dengan hati-hati oleh struktural
insinyur, dengan mempertimbangkan ketinggian dinding dan beban yang aka
n
diperlukan untuk menanggung, baik dari segi bangunan itu
sendiri serta kekuatan
gravitasi, angin, dan bumi yang mempengaruhi struktur.
Mendirikan baris bangunan.
mengukur sudut-sudut, diagonal, untuk memastikan dinding dan sudutadalah
persegi.
5. membangun dinding dan atap
Buat pembatas untuk memasang pasangan batu bata.
Tandai lokasi dimana ada pintu, jendela dan dinding interior.
Pasang batu bata dengan dilapisi campuran semen, pasir dan air setebal 1-3
cm secara berselang hingga membentuk dinding yang diinginkan.
Lakukan pengecoran beton pada kolom.
Berikan ring balok diatas dinding.
Kemudian pasang kuda-kuda untuk atap
Pasang atap untuk menghalangi kelembaban
6. mulai pada Interior
Memasang pipa untuk air minum, saluran
air limbah, dan tiriskan ventilasi di dinding.
Menginstal utama listrik panel box, dan setiap sub
panel yang memerlukan desain Anda, dan menginstal kabeldari ini untuk mas
ing-masing
perangkat.
Menginstal isolasi.
Menginstal langit-langit Anda.
7. memasang Essentials
Memasang pipa perabot yang diperlukan. Menginstal bak mandi,
menginstal lampu dan perlengkapanlainnya,

Menginstal lemari dan pekerjaan pabrik lainnya.

Menginstal lantai.
Menginstal peralatan dan utilitas telah diaktifkan.
1. Finding location
Select a desirable place for your house. There are many factors to consider when
finding a suitable location on which to build your home. Think about a place
you'd like to
live long-term and keep in mind things like:
o Climate. Special considerations must be made for building in flood, hurricane,
intense heat, frigid cold, and other extreme weather and climatic conditions.
o Ground stability. Houses built on shifting sand, mucky soil, or other unstable
earth will likely fail over a short period of time unless they are built on special
foundations or pilings.
o Availability of utilities. If you intend to have electric power, potable water,
telephone, and other conveniences, make sure these utility providers offer them
at
your location.
o Community infrastructure. If you plan to raise children, make sure good quality
schools are available. Check to see if you are in a police jurisdiction to protect
you from crime, look at the distance you will have to travel to acquire basic
commodities, and whether medical help is nearby.
2.

Designing Your Home

Design your own home, or consult an architect. Architects and engineers have
special
training and years of experience in designing houses, and are necessary for most
building
and zoning jurisdiction code requirements. Regardless of whether you contract
their
services or elect to design your own, the house you build will be built for you, so
you
should be involved closely in the design process.
3.

Getting the Necessary Permits

Secure a construction loan. If you haven't already started this process when
securing the
land, you'll need to figure out a way to fund the project and a construction loan is
the
most recommended method of doing so. Apply for a construction loan by filling
out a
loan application, called a 1003, and submitting it to a loan officer along with a
credit
report.[6]
Secure the proper construction permits. A building permit is a basic requirement
in
many areas, particularly for permanent construction. To obtain this, you'll need to
provide
detailed architectural diagrams, engineering load specs, and other materials to
your state's
Department of Housing.[7]
4.

Breaking Ground

the foundation. The type and design of the foundation will depend upon the size
of your
house, the ground in which its laid, local building codes, and whether or not your
home
will have a basement. The most recommended and strongest type of foundation
is
concrete block.
o The excavation crew should first survey and stake the dimensions of the
foundation and excavate it to the desired depth, then smooth it out to a workable
surface, sometimes overlaying dirt or gravel to build upon.[9]
2. 2
Pour the concrete foundation on which to build. These are used to distribute the
weight
evenly and should be somewhat wider than the foundation walls, forming the
perimeter
of the home.

o Build the form work and fill in with concrete. The form work is basically a mold
for concrete, used to pour into and remove after the concrete has set.
Alternatively, a block foundation can be laid which won't be removed, in which
case you'll inlay rebar into the block and fill in the gaps in the block with
concrete.
o The thickness of the foundation should be determined carefully by a structural
engineer, taking into consideration the height of the wall and the load it will be
required to bear, both in terms of the building itself as well as the forces of
gravity, wind, and earth that affect the structure.
Set up building lines. This means putting either batter boards or corner stakes at
each
corner of the house foundation to level and square up the foundation. Use a
transit or
building level to make sure the building lines are level and square, and check by
measuring corner to corner, diagonally, to make sure the walls and corners are
square.
Install your chosen type of floor. There are two common floor types, called "slab
on
grade" or "pier and beam/joist" floors. Before pouring the slab floor, you need to
make
sure you've installed rough plumbing lines so that they are accurately placed.
After the
slab is poured, it'll be too late to adjust.
o For a slab-on-grade floor, form up the footing to the proper specs and lay rebar.
Generally, these floors are made on concrete block foundations. After installing
your plumbing rough-ins, backfill around the foundation with dirt and gravel,
compacting it appropriately. At this point, you may also want to pretreat for
termites and install moisture barrier.
o For off-grade or above-grade floors, lay out and install wooden flooring piers
and
install your floor joist framing system to the proper specifications. Install

sub-floor /finish floor decking.

5.

Building the Walls and Roof

Frame the walls of your house. You will need to lay out the wall lines on the floor,
beginning at one corner, marking your bottom plate (called the rat sill) to attach
to anchor
bolts.
o As you work, mark the location of doors, windows, and interior wall corners on
the sill. Be sure to use special metal connectors/straps at the floor and tops of
walls as required by code for storm and earthquake proofing.[10]
o Use tees at wall intersections, substantial headers for openings in load bearing
walls, and allow space at each rough opening for the feature to be installed.
Plumb the walls and brace them securely. Install sheathing if required. Otherwise,
use
sheet metal straps to diagonally brace all exterior wall corners. Make sure all
studs
(vertical framing members, usually 2 inch by 4 inch nominal lumber, graded
standard or
better) are securely nailed in place, straight and square to the wall line.
Lay out the marks for setting your roof trusses. You may want to stick frame your
roof, cutting and installing rafters and ceiling joists yourself (especially if you
want a
useable attic space). Prefab trusses, however, are engineered with lighter,
smaller lumber
for maximum strength. There are some trusses for attics with high-pitched roofs
and
dormers, as well as more traditional roofs. Research your options and choose
something
that works well for your home.
Set each truss in the correct location. Generally, this means 24 inches apart from
one
another, sometimes 16 inches for stick-bracing structures. Attach hurricane clips
or other

connectors to secure them, plumb the center of each truss, and temporarily
support them
with a rat run bracing near the peak.
o Install diagonal gable bracing for a roof with gable ends to prevent the roof
frame
from leaning when you install the roof decking. For a hip roof, install king rafters
and hip rafters, being careful to keep the adjacent plane of the roof consistent
and
straight.[11]
Nail a sub-facia board to connect the ends of each rafter. Build out lookers to
support
the gable overhang and gable facia boards, if used. Deck the trusses or rafters
with
plywood, oriented strand lumber, or nominal lumber such as 1 x 6 inch tongue
and
groove boards.
o In areas where high winds or snow-loading (accumulation) is possible, make
sure
the roof decking is secured and structurally able to withstand these severe forces
and conditions. Use appropriate bracing and fasteners for this scope of work.
Install roofing felt for use as a moisture barrier. To make sure the elements don't
set
you back as you're working, it's important to install a moisture barrier on your
roof even
before it's completed. Use 15 or 30 pound roofing felt tar paper and simplex
nails, roofing
tacks, or plastic capped felting tacks to secure it. Begin felting the decking at the
lower
edge, allowing it to hang over slightly, and overlap subsequent layers to keep
water from
getting under this moisture barrier.
Install the exterior siding and exterior features such as windows and doors. Many
locations require some type of metal flashing to prevent water from penetrating
the edges

and the gables, but you may be able to seal them sufficiently with caulking if it is
permitted and you are able.
Install your final roof. You may choose painted sheet metal panels, rolled steel
formed
to lengths needed on site, or shingles, terra cotta tiles, or other materials,
depending on
your preference, costs, and products available at your location. Consider ridge
vents, attic
exhaust fans, vented dormers, and other architectural details which can increase
the
comfort of your house while decreasing cooling costs in hot climates.
6.

Starting on the Interior

Install pipes for potable water, waste drains, and drain vents in walls. These can
be
capped off to trim out after the walls are finished, especially if the local codes
require
pressure testing before finishing may be done.
Install HVAC (air conditioning and heat) ductwork, air handlers, and refrigerant
piping. Stub out your ductwork for return air and supply air registers. Insulate the
ductwork if it is not pre-insulated, and seal all joints. Fasten ductwork as needed
to
prevent movement and ensure the your conduits are flush.
Rough-in electrical outlets. Most likely, there will be electrical outlets, light
fixtures,
and special wiring required for large appliances like water heaters, stoves, and
air
conditioning that will be necessary to do as soon as possible. Install the main
electrical
panel box, and any sub-panels your design requires, and install wiring from these
to each
device.
Commonly, #12 Romex cable is used for ordinary lighting and outlet circuits, and
nail-in electrical boxes are attached to the wall studs, with the front edge

protruding to allow for the finished wall material to be flush.

Install insulation. Insulate walls where it is required. Depending on the climate,
you will
want to get location-specific guidelines for this area of work, as warmer climates
will use
substantially less insulation in the walls than warmer areas. Insulate the spaces
between
ceiling joists and walls.[12]
o Walls are usually insulated with a minimum R-value of 13, and ceilings with a
minimum of 19, but as much as 30, or even more for lowering fuel and utility
usage.
Install your ceilings. Gypsum wall board made of drywall or sheetrock is a
common
material used for this application, but there are other products including
accoustical
ceiling tiles, beaded plywood paneling (to simulate planking), and even natural
wood
lumber that are commonly used for creating solid ceilings.
7.

Installing the Essentials

Install plumbing fixtures as necessary. Install the bath tub, shower enclosure, and
any
other large plumbing fixtures which will interface with finished walls. Make sure
plumbing rough-ins are correctly located, and pipes are protected and securely
anchored.
Install the wall board or paneling on interior walls. Traditionally, builders will use
gypsum wall board, wood, or masonite paneling for this purpose. Panels are
generally
jacked 3/8 inch above the floor to avoid moisture from floor spills and regular
mopping
when you clean the house. There are many interior wall products available, so
the
installation process will depend on the material used. Apply finish to gypsum wall
board,

taping and skimming/floating all joints to an acceptable level of finish.

Finish/texture any
ceilings during this step if applicable.
Place wall trim. Put up any trim you are using for baseboards, crown mouldings,
and
corners, and install your interior doors and jambs. If you are using natural wood
trim and
mouldings, you will want to paint the walls prior to this step. Prefinishing the trim
before
installing will make the final finish easier, but any nail-holes will probably still
need
attention after installation.
Caulk, paint, and install wall coverings on any walls that require it. Most likely,
you
will want to prime wall board, then apply a finish coat. Use a paint roller where
possible,
cutting-in with brushes around appertanances and in corners.
o Be sure to trim out the electrical devices, install lights and other fixtures, and
install breakers in panel boxes if they were not pre-installed.
Install cabinets and other mill work. You will probably need at least basic kitchen
storage cabinets and a bathroom vanity cabinet for a sink, other cabinets may
include a
bar, upper storage cabinets, and lower units with drawers for kitchen utensils
and
supplies.
Install flooring. Note that for carpet floors, base boards are installed prior to
flooring,
leaving 3/8 inch for the carpet to tuck underneath it. For hardwood or composite
floors,
this trim is installed after the floor is finished.
Install appliances and have the utilities turned on. To start checking to make sure
everything's working appropriately, activate the water and electricity to start

experimenting with your handiwork. Adjust the jobs as necessary and work on
finishing
the house to a state at which you'll want to move in and start enjoying your new
home.
Tips
Building codes require various inspections at different stages of construction,
so they are not
included in steps. Some basic inspections may include:
o Foundation inspection, prior to placing concrete footings
o Slab and plumbing rough-in, prior to placing concrete slab
o Framing inspection, after decking is installed on roof, prior to shingles or other
roofing
o Electrical rough-in
o Plumbing rough-in (may include a pressure or leak test)
o Percolation testing, for permitting septic tanks and lines, especially strict near
streams
and bodies of water.
o Mechanical rough-in (for ductwork installation)
o Final inspections on each scope of work
Coordinate temporary electrical power with your local utility.
o Use a project plan such as www.homebuildingprojectplan.com to organize your
thoughts and timelines.
Ad
Warnings
It's not going to be cheap! You may build in stages and add on were that
planned and depending
on what is allowed by permits and inspections. In cities and developments one is
often not
allowed to live in a mobile home or in a garage; a small house built first could
eventually
become a garage if floors were so designed, or a 4 room house can become a 6
room house, by

additions, attics can be finished years later, etc. Don't end up with a half finished
house and
nowhere to live and very little money. Plan your finances in advance.
Things You'll Need

Land and materials

The proper tools

Skills in various trades or crafts

The Home Building Project Plan (www.homebuildingprojectplan.com)

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.

Finding location
Desaining Your Home
Getting the Necessary Permits
Breaking Ground
Building the Walls and Roof
Starting on the Interior
Installing the Essentials